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HTC G1 Screen cracked (digitizer) - G1 Parts order

Hi,
I'm new to this forum so i'd like to say hello to everybody first
I have a g1 with the screen cracked. When I say the screen is cracked I mean that upper glass area; The lcd does not seem to be cracked in any way so there is no bleeding at all. Touch still works very well even in the cracked area.
I seem to have come across only 1 ebay auction that was selling a digitizer and everywere is absurdly expensive to buy. Any ideas where i can find one ? At 189$ i'm half way to buying a new phone tbh.
Also I saw in this forum that some people had the same problem and people told them that they would need to replace both lcd AND digitizer, however i clearly saw in the htc dream service manual that they are two separate parts with separate part numbers. Is there some particular reason for this ?
Just to clarify, can any tell me the order in which components are placed in the htc g1 ? Im assuming they are as follows:
Touch Screen Digitizer
LCD Screen
cover and hinge
in that order..Am I right in my assumption ?
Thanks,
Mewt

Bump. I would like to know as well.

Check it out:
This listing just got put up on eBay today. This guy has 50 digitizers for sale:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=230336383436

If you are sure the LCD is intact, you should just buy the Digitizer. The LCD can easily be seen by opening up the phone.
http://cgi.ebay.com/HTC-T-MOBILE-GO...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50

I can confirm you can replace the digitizer WITHOUT replacing the lcd.
I just did it. A car ran over my G1 a while ago and I've been lurking on ebay ever since waiting for digitizers to be listed. With a new digitizer, a Torx screwdriver and about an hour I have just replaced the broken one and the new one works perfectly.
Of course that also means I now have a spare G1 since I bought another one in case I couldn't get a replacement.

I will be doing the same shortly.
Actually this is the best price I have found on a digitizer
http://www.perfectesell.com/gog1glscdico.html
Any tips on replacing the part? Does the phone have to come completely apart?

I can't buy from that buyer as he doesn't ship to Malta but thanks, now I know what I need to look for and will be doing so. Hope I can get my g1 working well again...I just hate trying to read messages with cracks in them
Thanks all for your replies

Its quite fiddly but as long as you have the manual you should be okay.
There's a few things tho. Page 23 doesn't really show you how to disconnect the camera very well. On the underside of the main board there is a connector like the one for the screen. It is released by flipping the paddle lever think 90 degrees down. Otherwise the camera connector gets pulled out when you remove the mainboard.
It should go without saying you don't need to disassemble the bottom "chin" part when you remove it. Oh and page 24 has an error, those aren't the 2 screws you need to remove, its 2 long ones, one is in the top right of that picture on page 24 the other is to the right of the one circled.

Mr_dev said:
Its quite fiddly but as long as you have the manual you should be okay.
There's a few things tho. Page 23 doesn't really show you how to disconnect the camera very well. On the underside of the main board there is a connector like the one for the screen. It is released by flipping the paddle lever think 90 degrees down. Otherwise the camera connector gets pulled out when you remove the mainboard.
It should go without saying you don't need to disassemble the bottom "chin" part when you remove it. Oh and page 24 has an error, those aren't the 2 screws you need to remove, its 2 long ones, one is in the top right of that picture on page 24 the other is to the right of the one circled.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hey would you say the average person would be able to change the digitizer or do you have to be a handy man.. taking anybodys replys ONLY if you''ve done it

Well I guess I am the average person but then I've taken many a pc and laptop apart and put it back together again so maybe not...
There's nothing that requires great skill in it. As long as you're gentle, patient and careful (taking apart a G1 is like making love to a beautiful woman...). Keep track of what screws came from where and don't try and force anything.
Remember you need some torx head screwdrivers. but you can get these on ebay for very little.
I have to admit I feel a bit smug when I see forum posts from people who advise you sent it back to T-Mo and pay a $100+ excess for them to do it. As if!

Ah, my screen is just gently scratched, but it's annoying sometimes. I might look at into this if it gets any worse.
Just looking at the back of the screen when the G1 is open, it looks like I'd have to take the whole phone apart...are there guides I can look at?

Here is some sites that helped me out.
This is an easy to ready explanation to what you are looking at.
http://www.phonewreck.com/wiki/index.php?title=T-Mobile_G1
This is where I found the service manual a while back
http://www.intomobile.com/2008/12/18/dissect-your-t-mobile-g1-with-the-htc-dream-service-manual.html
This was where you can find the digitizer. (I dunno which one it is... but I think its the clearpad) only thing I could not find a match on part numbers anywhere
http://www.synaptics.com/solutions/products
And this is the address and Houston local number for HTC America. (i didnt check the number so i'm 72.34763% sure its right(just do a little social engineering to get to where you need to be.) )
http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&i...-95.551229&spn=0.009187,0.015986&z=16&iwloc=A

same boat here. cracked digitizer. seems like the g1 is the only phone, for which you can't buy one.

Mr_dev said:
Well I guess I am the average person but then I've taken many a pc and laptop apart and put it back together again so maybe not...
There's nothing that requires great skill in it. As long as you're gentle, patient and careful (taking apart a G1 is like making love to a beautiful woman...). Keep track of what screws came from where and don't try and force anything.
Remember you need some torx head screwdrivers. but you can get these on ebay for very little.
I have to admit I feel a bit smug when I see forum posts from people who advise you sent it back to T-Mo and pay a $100+ excess for them to do it. As if!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hey i have a question i replace my digitizer but now the bottom part of the touch screen... closest to the menu button doesnt work. what do you think can be wrong

Pull it apart again using the service guide section 2.2.3 and make sure all connections have complete contact. If something is not sitting right the circuit may not be ringing out correctly. Once you have gone through all the steps 2.3.2(lcm assembly) and everything looks connected properly, assemble, reboot and test. If it is not fixed you may have a bad digitizer I'm hoping for the fact that most of your screen is working its just a connection problem.

Mr_dev said:
Its quite fiddly but as long as you have the manual you should be okay.
There's a few things tho. Page 23 doesn't really show you how to disconnect the camera very well. On the underside of the main board there is a connector like the one for the screen. It is released by flipping the paddle lever think 90 degrees down. Otherwise the camera connector gets pulled out when you remove the mainboard.
It should go without saying you don't need to disassemble the bottom "chin" part when you remove it. Oh and page 24 has an error, those aren't the 2 screws you need to remove, its 2 long ones, one is in the top right of that picture on page 24 the other is to the right of the one circled.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you reassembled what did you do about the tape and gaskets? Were you able to buy new or did you use something else? Thanks!
Matt

s02mike said:
Here is some sites that helped me out.
This is an easy to ready explanation to what you are looking at.
http://www.phonewreck.com/wiki/index.php?title=T-Mobile_G1
This is where I found the service manual a while back
http://www.intomobile.com/2008/12/18/dissect-your-t-mobile-g1-with-the-htc-dream-service-manual.html
This was where you can find the digitizer. (I dunno which one it is... but I think its the clearpad) only thing I could not find a match on part numbers anywhere
http://www.synaptics.com/solutions/products
And this is the address and Houston local number for HTC America. (i didnt check the number so i'm 72.34763% sure its right(just do a little social engineering to get to where you need to be.) )
http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&i...-95.551229&spn=0.009187,0.015986&z=16&iwloc=A
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i'm willing to try replacing it myself as well and i was wondering how much your purchased your new digitizer for. would the one suggested earlier at this link: http://www.perfectesell.com/gog1glscdico.html be good? it seems a lot cheaper than other ones and i dont want to buy a faulty and cheap one that may not work as well or break. any other tips would be GREATLY appreciated. TIA!

Here's the correct page on the Perfectesell site:
http://www.perfectesell.com/htcgog1glscd.html
Same price ($65) as the ebay auction that ended.
I dunno what that $12.95 thing was... price doesn't seem right for glass, touch sensing wizardry

mattcairns said:
When you reassembled what did you do about the tape and gaskets? Were you able to buy new or did you use something else? Thanks!
Matt
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some of the gaskets i didnt fully remove so i just place em down... and some of the tape i didnt reuse.
bloob9 said:
i'm willing to try replacing it myself as well and i was wondering how much your purchased your new digitizer for. would the one suggested earlier at this link: http://www.perfectesell.com/gog1glscdico.html be good? it seems a lot cheaper than other ones and i dont want to buy a faulty and cheap one that may not work as well or break. any other tips would be GREATLY appreciated. TIA!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought my digitizer on ebay for about 25 dollars i think. then i bought the screwdrive kit for 7 dollars also

s02mike said:
Pull it apart again using the service guide section 2.2.3 and make sure all connections have complete contact. If something is not sitting right the circuit may not be ringing out correctly. Once you have gone through all the steps 2.3.2(lcm assembly) and everything looks connected properly, assemble, reboot and test. If it is not fixed you may have a bad digitizer I'm hoping for the fact that most of your screen is working its just a connection problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanx i took it apart again and that fixed it... i have 2 more problems 1 major 1 not. i dont know but i normally got 3g service in my house and now i dont what could b the problem.
second is that the screen doesnt swivel smoothy as before

[Q] Screen replacement, leftover piece

Hey! I just replaced a broken screen and it went quite well, aside from the fact that my mic is not really working as it should anymore (it sounds like I am really far away whenever I speak). After the reassembly, I noticed one plastic piece which for the life of me I cannot find a suitable place for. Does anyone know where it is supposed to go?

I've never had that piece loose after replacing my screen (I've gone through 4!!).
The microphone problem seems to be a common problem with screen replacements (judging by xda, other forums and product reviews). I don't know a fix for that, but wanted to let you know it seems to be everyone
Sent from my MB526 using xda premium

Haha ok, no I haven't been able to spot it n any how-to video or anything so I am completely stumped. Does anyone know if the mic problem is fixable? Been googling a bit without result.
Edit: " end of my woes.
I had the same thing as adam in the end. its the little orange silicon bit that shields the microphone. it fits into the fornt cover near the microphone hole. I accidentally threw it away with the old cover and then had the problem. I had to buy a complete new casing in the edn but it is working fine now.
Chris"
Found this in another thread, but... Hmmm, I know of the three orange parts and I have taken good care of them. None of those are clowe to the mic though, or perhaps I am mixing up the mic with somethng else? Oh well, there was somethng else about a rubber part behind the display, perhaps I'll just stick my rubber thingie in there. Yup.

rakitin said:
Edit: " end of my woes.
I had the same thing as Adam in the end. its the little orange silicon bit that shields the microphone. it fits into the front cover near the microphone hole. I accidentally threw it away with the old cover and then had the problem. I had to buy a complete new casing in the end but it is working fine now.
Chris"
Found this in another thread, but... Hmmm, I know of the three orange parts and I have taken good care of them. None of those are close to the mic though, or perhaps I am mixing up the mic with something else? Oh well, there was something else about a rubber part behind the display, perhaps I'll just stick my rubber thingie in there. Yup.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I know what Chris was referring to, it's a rectangular red/orange silicone.... thing. I'll edit this with link to a video at the time it appears, when I get to a computer that is.
-Sent from my MB525 on Quarx's 2nd boot CM10 [BL7]

pk92 said:
I think I know what Chris was referring to, it's a rectangular red/orange silicone.... thing. I'll edit this with link to a video at the time it appears, when I get to a computer that is.
-Sent from my MB525 on Quarx's 2nd boot CM10 [BL7]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you! I will open it up again tonight and see if I can fix it. Apparently I also managed to cause some problem with the headset since the right earpiece no longer works. Only the left one... Seems like i really shouldnt do these kinds of repair work myself.
Edit: i think I used too much glue a the bottom while fastening the screen and that is why the mic is not working as it should. Just putting it here so others might take t ny consideration if they see this post. Guess the only way to fixit is to buy a new front.

[Q] How to open the Nexus 10?

I want to open my N10 up, but I really don't know how much force to be using to separate the back from the screen (seems like it would require an extreme amount of force).
I have a suction cup attached to the screen, and I have the screw off the back. From there, I assume I would start at a corner and just press it downward to try to get the back off? Should it require a lot of force? Does the back bend, or should it?

Do a search, got to be videos on you tube.
Sent from my MB855 using xda premium

rbeavers said:
Do a search, got to be videos on you tube.
Sent from my MB855 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only thing I can find is the PowerMedic teardown, which doesn't explain how much force should be needed still...
I'd rather hear from someone personally how hard it was to open their N10.

espionage724 said:
Only thing I can find is the PowerMedic teardown, which doesn't explain how much force should be needed still...
I'd rather hear from someone personally how hard it was to open their N10.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Search youtube( google nexus 10 gets clean) shows the rear cover being removed. I couldn't post a link because I don't know how to! Hope it helps if

Lipp24 said:
Search youtube( google nexus 10 gets clean) shows the rear cover being removed. I couldn't post a link because I don't know how to! Hope it helps if
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Found it
Hmm, I'll have to see if I have a separating tool, but that doesn't look like too much force was used at all.

Finally got it open. Was a huge pain to do with a credit card (basically destroyed it mostly), but I started with the top-middle edge, and worked my way around from there. Biggest pain was to get the bottom edge off, but I managed to get that off after a while.
So, I just noticed that my Pogo connection area, there's a pin broken. From left-to-right, it's the 5th pin. Why is this?

espionage724 said:
Finally got it open. Was a huge pain to do with a credit card (basically destroyed it mostly), but I started with the top-middle edge, and worked my way around from there. Biggest pain was to get the bottom edge off, but I managed to get that off after a while.
So, I just noticed that my Pogo connection area, there's a pin broken. From left-to-right, it's the 5th pin. Why is this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you mean on the inside of the N10 there is a pin broken? I looked at those powerbook medic photos which its hard to get an angle on that area, but it didnt look like any of the inside pin connections were missing, so are you saying it looks intentionally not connected/separated?

bigmatty said:
Do you mean on the inside of the N10 there is a pin broken? I looked at those powerbook medic photos which its hard to get an angle on that area, but it didnt look like any of the inside pin connections were missing, so are you saying it looks intentionally not connected/separated?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's like a 3-piece system in the Pogo cable area. The N10 shell has the 5 pin area and has metal contact sheets on the inside for those pins. The N10 itself then has strips of metal I think above metal contact points. The strip of metal that should come in-contact on the N10 itself is cut-short on the 5th pin.
Probably not the best explanation though. I think I saw a post on the Pogo cable thread of someone mentioning this.

espionage724 said:
It's like a 3-piece system in the Pogo cable area. The N10 shell has the 5 pin area and has metal contact sheets on the inside for those pins. The N10 itself then has strips of metal I think above metal contact points. The strip of metal that should come in-contact on the N10 itself is cut-short on the 5th pin.
Probably not the best explanation though. I think I saw a post on the Pogo cable thread of someone mentioning this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know there was a post about the pogo charger that included pictures, and in the picture one of the pins was either missing or shaded. the discussion assumed it was missing and gave theorys on why. (all perfectly reasonable as I remember.) BUT I just got a pogo in the mail a couple days ago and, at least this vesion, has all its pins. im guessing there is a couple ways the pogo "port" could be utilized, so a variety of combinations would certainly make sense.
but as for that cut short you're talking about, does it look machine done? like if its a ribbon-like material does the notch made in it look perfectly made such that it was done by machine? or does it look jagged or snagged? if it looks machine made Im sure its intentional. if it looked jagged or snagged Id be concerned that is on accident.
EDIT: i ask/say "ribbon like material" but same basic thought process for me re: metal extensoin posts - does the "cut" look like it was done with some sort of grinding device that would leave the pins as "not sharp" or does it look cut like when you flex metal a bunch and it snaps or if you use wire cutters how it leaves a jagged edge.
/my .02

Nothing is impossible - opening the HTC One. Now with video!

After a trip to a shower my HTC One was declared dead (boot loop even after rice, humidity remover, heat, and others) I figured I would open the phone even it it meant that I could destroy it. It turns out that all you really need is patience and tools already available. Sure, I did bent the upper cover but, hey, everything else is intact.
I started by removing the volume button and started using those "guitar picks" around going down. Added some heat to unset the glue and moving slowly I started prying open the right side (when you are looking at the lcd). Than continued moving down until the left side was stuck. After that I went high on the volume button to set the whole right side open.
Now I'm using the other tool (the one that looks like a lever?) I started opening the left side. This side was a lot harder so I applied heat again. After that the glue wasn't an issue and it started to open nicely. Now I have the phone open and I'll see if I can get it working again.
Sorry for the English. I'm too excited to correct the mistakes and I'm not from an English speaking country.
Edit: added tools pictures.
The guitar picks were used to start opening the phone. The green and blue tool were used to open the left/top/bottom sides. The light blue tool was used mostly as a lever on the right side that was already open.
Edit2:
Video will be here shortly: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=48832250&postcount=22
Overall experience while opening the HTC One (compared to the iPad 2/iPhone 3G/S/4S/iPod touch 5th/Motorola Atrix/Transformer Prime) I would give it a 4. The iPad being a 2 (almost impossible to open without a heat source and nearly impossible to mount a new glass without issues).

Uhuhu said:
After a trip to a shower
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
... Should I ask why?

To fix the purple tint caused by heat on the camera sensor. thats why.

chc31 said:
... Should I ask why?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After dropping my an old phone in the toilet (Before I went ) never again. My phone is barred from the bathroom unless its in my pocket. I guess the OP wanted to have some alone time with his phone.........................

chc31 said:
... Should I ask why?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
TuneIn, on the upper part of the bathroom/shower (we mostly call it "box" to take a shower while listening to music.

Wow I think that this would be very usefull for other people who want open it...

Von Ropen said:
Wow I think that this would be very usefull for other people who want open it...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, it clearly isint. He just wanted everyone to know that he was able to open the phone.
Ok you did a pretty amazing job. Now let's move on.
Sent from my One using xda app-developers app

jags_the1 said:
Well, it clearly isint. He just wanted everyone to know that he was able to open the phone.
Ok you did a pretty amazing job. Now let's move on.
Sent from my One using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry you meant he was able to break the phone

Von Ropen said:
Sorry you meant he was able to break the phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Phone is back. 100% working again. After opening it up I used a hairdryer on the "on/off" switch, left it open to cool down. After an hour I left it charging and left it there. It wasn't boot looping anymore and it turned on.

Uhuhu said:
Phone is back. 100% working again. After opening it up I used a hairdryer on the "on/off" switch, left it open to cool down. After an hour I left it charging and left it there. It wasn't boot looping anymore and it turned on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But it is the same phone? how did you repare the top right corner of the screen that was completely off centered?

Von Ropen said:
But it is the same phone? how did you repare the top right corner of the screen that was completely off centered?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same phone. I just glued it back to position with a superglue (superbonder is the trademark I've used). Used a toothpick to smear it gently and used some phone books to keep things in place. The top aluminum part was bent but the superglue is now holding it.
About the video, I'm not sure I'm willing to open it again. It would be awesome tho..

I have read that under the speaker grills there are screws holding it together.. did you encounter these screws?

twerg said:
I have read that under the speaker grills there are screws holding it together.. did you encounter these screws?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Found no screws. It's stuck together in one piece by some clips on the white border only. It's also glued around the same white border.
Follow-up: The phone is still working fine but not charging anymore. I'll wait to open it again later, in about two days or so, and than I'll video the process to see if there's something wrong. Hopefully it's fixable. And I hope I can open it without issues just like the first time. If it doesn't charge I'll see if I can get a new charging port (maybe the water did some damage by rusting the contacts of the port).

It seems that the phone is playing tricks on me. It's charging today.. Go figure..

Could be the water damage. I read where people with different phones talked about the phone acting weird like it just stop charging or the screen won't come on. That would come and go without warning. Remember my father in law damaged a phone once when he was a truck driver and delivering his load in to a walk in freezer. He made many trips in and out and I guess from the extreme cold to heat made it condensate inside the phone. Where are the water damage labels on the phone beings you had it open?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4

Double post.

Water labels are intact and since htc left Brazil we don't have an authorized to fix it so I opened it and saw that there is no water indicator in red. The water damage sticker is below the flash. Look at the pictures and you'll see a white sticker below the flash and another close to the usb port on the lower side of the phone. Not sure if the second one is a water damage indicator..
I'll keep using the phone till I get some alone time to open it. Tho I'm worried that I might break the phone this time (since it's working again - for no apparent reason).

So, yeah, there's an issue with the charging. Not sure if it's the port or the phone. Tested different chargers and it won't charge while it's on nor when it's off. After a day off it charged (yesterday) but now it won't charge. This sux. I have to find out what's going on. So, yes, I'll have to open it again. I can't have a phone that will be used to drive using gps all day behaving it like that. Phones won't last 4 hours on battery alone while using gps.

Added new picture with tools used..

Sorry for the double/triple post, but it's the best way to keep everyone informed..
If I helped you in any way please consider donating something so I can buy a new phone. The HTC One is dead due to an issue with the USB connector or something else that I'm still not aware. I will use this phone as a test bed from now on to see if I can fix other stuff without breaking too so I do need a new phone. You can donate here: http://bit.ly/1a9vqqg
Thanks and enjoy the video! I hope it helps a lot of people.
A video will be uploaded here: (it's 04:37am GMT -2) and still 205 minutes left to upload. Video will be 720p and it's 1.2gb so yeah, it will take a while. But now I'm off to bed. And sorry for my english. I'm ok writing but I'm so so when speaking. I said I would edit the video but since it's just shy of 19 minutes I figured I would leave it like that.
If you guys have any idea on what to do to help me fix the charging issue I would see if I can try that now that the phone can be easily opened. :fingers-crossed:

Really strange screen issue

Hi all
So I just installed a few games on my Nexus 4 this evening and noticed some areas of the screen not responding. Its isolated to about a 1cm from the left on my screen. When I enable the "show touches" option under developer options I can see the ball jump when I move my finger over the area. Whats odd is that the very edge reports OK and I can swipe to Google Now without issue.
I was using PA with Franco and just as a test revered to stock and it seemed to work however after about 5 mins it went back to the same behaviour. Once again I installed my stock nandroid and now its just jumping like it was. So confused!
I guess some software is running and causing issue or the screen is over sensitive in that area me touching it is causing issue. Its worth noting that I changed the screen a few days ago so it could be the connectors but could it be isolated due to a connection?

bert682 said:
Hi all
So I just installed a few games on my Nexus 4 this evening and noticed some areas of the screen not responding. Its isolated to about a 1cm from the left on my screen. When I enable the "show touches" option under developer options I can see the ball jump when I move my finger over the area. Whats odd is that the very edge reports OK and I can swipe to Google Now without issue.
I was using PA with Franco and just as a test revered to stock and it seemed to work however after about 5 mins it went back to the same behaviour. Once again I installed my stock nandroid and now its just jumping like it was. So confused!
I guess some software is running and causing issue or the screen is over sensitive in that area me touching it is causing issue. Its worth noting that I changed the screen a few days ago so it could be the connectors but could it be isolated due to a connection?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so I was able to use the old screen (cracked) in a frankenstein fashion and it works 100% of the time. The current seen seems to work for a while and then goes back to missing that area.
Will try and return for a replacement.

bert682 said:
Ok so I was able to use the old screen (cracked) in a frankenstein fashion and it works 100% of the time. The current seen seems to work for a while and then goes back to missing that area.
Will try and return for a replacement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Update 3
So the issue has progressed to being intermittent. It will be broken for a few hours, then work OK for a few. This can happen at random,so, not plugged in as I suspect heat was an issue. I can get a text, its broken, pocket the phone and in 5 mins when I get the reply it can be working again.
Ive made a video of what its doing, notice the white dot "jump" when compared to the right.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0i6bdx3f4lWd3VmTWZXM0tjMTQ/edit?usp=sharing
Any suggestions?

You need a different screen if you want to fix it.

bert682 said:
Update 3
So the issue has progressed to being intermittent. It will be broken for a few hours, then work OK for a few. This can happen at random,so, not plugged in as I suspect heat was an issue. I can get a text, its broken, pocket the phone and in 5 mins when I get the reply it can be working again.
Ive made a video of what its doing, notice the white dot "jump" when compared to the right.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0i6bdx3f4lWd3VmTWZXM0tjMTQ/edit?usp=sharing
Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check that the flex cable isn't damaged, dirty or loose before you bother with a replacement. Either way, you probably need a replacement screen

lopezk38 said:
Check that the flex cable isn't damaged, dirty or loose before you bother with a replacement. Either way, you probably need a replacement screen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea I took it all apart and while the new one was connected I was able to connect the old one, upside down etc. It worked OK. Did a bit of a blow and properly pressing down on the connectors.
I could accept the screen is at fault at return it but when the issue is not 100% of the time I know my luck will be that when it gets tested at the sellers end it will work, get sent back to me and be broken again.
Have some monitoring apps running now so I can tell of its heat. Since this side is away from the battery im less incluined to think its heat from that. The motherboard does run down that side so it could be something in that? Ever seen any reports of that getting too hot?
Could even be heat from the antenna cable somehow?
Strange that it spans the whole length though.
Ill risk the return I think, got a video of it being broken so will see what happens.

Run over to Radio Shack (or whatever the equivalent is in what ever country you're in - I don't know where you are) and find a product called Deoxit/Progold. Deoxit cleans the contacts from oxidation, Progold enhances conductivity. Or find something similar.
This stuff is great for blasting inside headphone jacks to get rid of the "scratching" when your plug gets moved around, to fix iffy USB connections, etc. A little goes a long way. I don't know if it'll solve your screen issues, but it's worth a try, and if it doesn't work, you can still use it on other things, so it's not a waste of money.

Planterz said:
Run over to Radio Shack (or whatever the equivalent is in what ever country you're in - I don't know where you are) and find a product called Deoxit/Progold. Deoxit cleans the contacts from oxidation, Progold enhances conductivity. Or find something similar.
This stuff is great for blasting inside headphone jacks to get rid of the "scratching" when your plug gets moved around, to fix iffy USB connections, etc. A little goes a long way. I don't know if it'll solve your screen issues, but it's worth a try, and if it doesn't work, you can still use it on other things, so it's not a waste of money.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, that stuff isnt cheap. Lets hope a little does go a long way!
Thanks, have ordered a small bottle, will give it a go.
I noticed that my new screen is genuine LG (at least its stamped all over it) but the one I removed seems to be a 3rd party replacement. Its got some areas that "look cheap" in comparison. Its got a small foil coating over the flex cable where as the one I removed didnt. I assume its to protect and move heat away?
Few forum posts mention the use of 3rd party chargers....I have used a cheap one when I am in work. I have used in on my old HTC Desire HD and my Lumia 520 and never had an issue. Do you think it could have damaged the digitiser?

bert682 said:
Wow, that stuff isnt cheap. Lets hope a little does go a long way!
Thanks, have ordered a small bottle, will give it a go.
I noticed that my new screen is genuine LG (at least its stamped all over it) but the one I removed seems to be a 3rd party replacement. Its got some areas that "look cheap" in comparison. Its got a small foil coating over the flex cable where as the one I removed didnt. I assume its to protect and move heat away?
Few forum posts mention the use of 3rd party chargers....I have used a cheap one when I am in work. I have used in on my old HTC Desire HD and my Lumia 520 and never had an issue. Do you think it could have damaged the digitiser?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interestingly enough , the original digitizer is wrapped with aluminum tape. Some knockoffs have a better cover in fact. They use a hard aluminum sheet instead of aluminum tape. Some knockoffs don't have that shielding which is bad because that tape is there to keep the IC from getting spammed with useless data by radio frequencies and such.
If you haven't dropped your device , i don'T think it is likely that there is a problem with the glass. It's most likely the IC.
You could transfer your old flex to your new glass which is easy but you need some seriously steady hands.
When you remove the glass from the frame , you will see the flex cable's contact zone. It's basically the part where it connects to the glass. If you heat that area up with a heat gun it's gonna come right off when the solder beneath melts. Take out the new one and the old one. You need a flathead tip for your solering iron , which is like a flathead screwdriver. Simply take some solder and spread that solder around the contact dots , don't worry it won't stick to the plastic but it will melt if you keep it at the same spot too much. When you're done spreading , there are two dots with which you can align your old flex cable to your new glass. Use some adhesive tape around the alignment dots and Align the dots with your flex cable (you'll know which dots when you see it because it's orange and kinda stands out) press it so the adhesive holds and then use your heat gun and melt the solder to the contact zone.
It's actually easier than it sounds.