[Q] Screen replacement, leftover piece - Defy Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

Hey! I just replaced a broken screen and it went quite well, aside from the fact that my mic is not really working as it should anymore (it sounds like I am really far away whenever I speak). After the reassembly, I noticed one plastic piece which for the life of me I cannot find a suitable place for. Does anyone know where it is supposed to go?

I've never had that piece loose after replacing my screen (I've gone through 4!!).
The microphone problem seems to be a common problem with screen replacements (judging by xda, other forums and product reviews). I don't know a fix for that, but wanted to let you know it seems to be everyone
Sent from my MB526 using xda premium

Haha ok, no I haven't been able to spot it n any how-to video or anything so I am completely stumped. Does anyone know if the mic problem is fixable? Been googling a bit without result.
Edit: " end of my woes.
I had the same thing as adam in the end. its the little orange silicon bit that shields the microphone. it fits into the fornt cover near the microphone hole. I accidentally threw it away with the old cover and then had the problem. I had to buy a complete new casing in the edn but it is working fine now.
Chris"
Found this in another thread, but... Hmmm, I know of the three orange parts and I have taken good care of them. None of those are clowe to the mic though, or perhaps I am mixing up the mic with somethng else? Oh well, there was somethng else about a rubber part behind the display, perhaps I'll just stick my rubber thingie in there. Yup.

rakitin said:
Edit: " end of my woes.
I had the same thing as Adam in the end. its the little orange silicon bit that shields the microphone. it fits into the front cover near the microphone hole. I accidentally threw it away with the old cover and then had the problem. I had to buy a complete new casing in the end but it is working fine now.
Chris"
Found this in another thread, but... Hmmm, I know of the three orange parts and I have taken good care of them. None of those are close to the mic though, or perhaps I am mixing up the mic with something else? Oh well, there was something else about a rubber part behind the display, perhaps I'll just stick my rubber thingie in there. Yup.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I know what Chris was referring to, it's a rectangular red/orange silicone.... thing. I'll edit this with link to a video at the time it appears, when I get to a computer that is.
-Sent from my MB525 on Quarx's 2nd boot CM10 [BL7]

pk92 said:
I think I know what Chris was referring to, it's a rectangular red/orange silicone.... thing. I'll edit this with link to a video at the time it appears, when I get to a computer that is.
-Sent from my MB525 on Quarx's 2nd boot CM10 [BL7]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you! I will open it up again tonight and see if I can fix it. Apparently I also managed to cause some problem with the headset since the right earpiece no longer works. Only the left one... Seems like i really shouldnt do these kinds of repair work myself.
Edit: i think I used too much glue a the bottom while fastening the screen and that is why the mic is not working as it should. Just putting it here so others might take t ny consideration if they see this post. Guess the only way to fixit is to buy a new front.

Related

Digitizer Non Responsive

Hey guys.
Owned the phone for a few months now and have started to notice a really odd problem. For a while the screen was being fairly unresponsive to touches and I couldn't figure out why. Taking the screen protector off fixed it temporarily but now the issue is back.
I finally realised that the issue was a black smudge that would appear whenever I pushed too hard on the screen. I'm assuming this registers as a touch on the screen and prevents it from working. Rubbing the stylus over the area usually makes it dissipate and the screen becomes responsive again, but it would come back not long later after general use.
Also there's some fairly odd rainbowing underneath the digitizer that moves around when you press on the screen. It circles around the smudges when they appear.
I know that all sounds fairly vague, but any help on the issue would be great. Is a new digitizer in order or could it be fixed by just dissassembling it? I've tried using a suction cap to make the problem go away, the rainbowing disappears but slowly comes back again. Also I haven't dropped the phone, left it near anything etc, besides the digitizer problem the phone works fine.
Thanks in advance!
(On a side note, I bought the phone off eBay and had to use a serial number locater to determine the region of the phone. Found out it was destined for India when I'm in Australia. Fairly odd, but what are the warranty implications? Is it still covered?)
Same problem here!
I've sent it to HTC for repair, since my Diamond2 has 1 year warranty and I only bought it in May/09. HTC said that screen issues are excluded of the warranty and that I have to pay about €70 for the screen repair, because, they say, the problem is due to misuse - wich I don't think is true.
Daisjun said:
Hey guys.
Owned the phone for a few months now and have started to notice a really odd problem. For a while the screen was being fairly unresponsive to touches and I couldn't figure out why. Taking the screen protector off fixed it temporarily but now the issue is back.
I finally realised that the issue was a black smudge that would appear whenever I pushed too hard on the screen. I'm assuming this registers as a touch on the screen and prevents it from working. Rubbing the stylus over the area usually makes it dissipate and the screen becomes responsive again, but it would come back not long later after general use.
Also there's some fairly odd rainbowing underneath the digitizer that moves around when you press on the screen. It circles around the smudges when they appear.
I know that all sounds fairly vague, but any help on the issue would be great. Is a new digitizer in order or could it be fixed by just dissassembling it? I've tried using a suction cap to make the problem go away, the rainbowing disappears but slowly comes back again. Also I haven't dropped the phone, left it near anything etc, besides the digitizer problem the phone works fine.
Thanks in advance!
(On a side note, I bought the phone off eBay and had to use a serial number locater to determine the region of the phone. Found out it was destined for India when I'm in Australia. Fairly odd, but what are the warranty implications? Is it still covered?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You have collapsed your layers between lcd and digitizer.
Some folks here use duct tape to repeatedly pull the layers apart and it fixes their issue for a while.
Thought it'd be something along those lines. I'll give the duct tape trick a try, can you point me to some other threads? I tried searching but was probably using the wrong terms.
Also vasco that's complete bollocks. I've kept my phone in its case the whole time I've had it, never put any pressure on it or had it in a rough environment. I'd throw a few customer complaints their way, especially if other people have had the same issue. Nice to know I'm not alone at least.
Daisjun said:
Thought it'd be something along those lines. I'll give the duct tape trick a try, can you point me to some other threads? I tried searching but was probably using the wrong terms.
Also vasco that's complete bollocks. I've kept my phone in its case the whole time I've had it, never put any pressure on it or had it in a rough environment. I'd throw a few customer complaints their way, especially if other people have had the same issue. Nice to know I'm not alone at least.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
search for "newton rings"
Daisjun said:
Thought it'd be something along those lines. I'll give the duct tape trick a try, can you point me to some other threads? I tried searching but was probably using the wrong terms.
Also vasco that's complete bollocks. I've kept my phone in its case the whole time I've had it, never put any pressure on it or had it in a rough environment. I'd throw a few customer complaints their way, especially if other people have had the same issue. Nice to know I'm not alone at least.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The issue is being discussed here:
http://forum.xda-developers...522813
I've already filed a complaint to the comm's regulation office. I'me presently waiting for their response.
had the same issue.. I just replaced the digitizer, it's a bit tricky but certainly possible.. yours is not that old so it should be repaired under warranty if you can have that done (have no clue about your situation there..)
digitizers are cheap on ebay
disassembly:
http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/htc-touch-diamond2/
Daisjun said:
Thought it'd be something along those lines. I'll give the duct tape trick a try, can you point me to some other threads? I tried searching but was probably using the wrong terms.
Also vasco that's complete bollocks. I've kept my phone in its case the whole time I've had it, never put any pressure on it or had it in a rough environment. I'd throw a few customer complaints their way, especially if other people have had the same issue. Nice to know I'm not alone at least.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here is my thread about this.
I am in the same boat as you - phone was destined for somewhere in Asia, and I am in Australia. I contacted HTC, and they also told me that the problem could be caused by misuse, even though I KNOW it wasn't, as my phone is always in it's case unless being used, never dropped etc. It sucks, but I think I will just replace the digitizer myself.

Epic 4G Speaker Innards

Well, The speaker began making crackly death sounds in my epic. From what I've seen via google search and here on the forums, It isn't entirely uncommon.
I've tinkered with some electronics before so i decided to avoid the whole going back to stock thing and picked up a speaker on ebay and replaced it. Along the way i decided to pick apart the failed bit. Took a few pictures but I am unsure of the cause of problems since i damaged the speaker prying the metal cover off. But I figure that one of the corners of the cone is getting popped inward and not letting the speaker do its thing.
If anyone else happens to have a failed/ noisy speaker and cares to take it apart please take a picture or two. I am simply curious as to if the corners are just creasing themselves inward somehow.
Imaperson said:
Well, The speaker began making crackly death sounds in my epic. From what I've seen via google search and here on the forums, It isn't entirely uncommon.
I've tinkered with some electronics before so i decided to avoid the whole going back to stock thing and picked up a speaker on ebay and replaced it. Along the way i decided to pick apart the failed bit. Took a few pictures but I am unsure of the cause of problems since i damaged the speaker prying the metal cover off. But I figure that one of the corners of the cone is getting popped inward and not letting the speaker do its thing.
If anyone else happens to have a failed/ noisy speaker and cares to take it apart please take a picture or two. I am simply curious as to if the corners are just creasing themselves inward somehow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just swapped one of my Epics out a couple of weeks ago because of this issue.
mattallica76 said:
I just swapped one of my Epics out a couple of weeks ago because of this issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would have of just gone to sprint. But it seemed easier to me to just get the speaker off of ebay for 13 bucks and have an excuse to pop open the back cover. And I am le lazy when it came to going back to stock. Strange there are no void stickers of any sort on the thing though.
Imaperson said:
Well, The speaker began making crackly death sounds in my epic. From what I've seen via google search and here on the forums, It isn't entirely uncommon.
I've tinkered with some electronics before so i decided to avoid the whole going back to stock thing and picked up a speaker on ebay and replaced it. Along the way i decided to pick apart the failed bit. Took a few pictures but I am unsure of the cause of problems since i damaged the speaker prying the metal cover off. But I figure that one of the corners of the cone is getting popped inward and not letting the speaker do its thing.
If anyone else happens to have a failed/ noisy speaker and cares to take it apart please take a picture or two. I am simply curious as to if the corners are just creasing themselves inward somehow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I'm having the same problem... Samsung tried to blame the issue on Sprint haha!
But, no I don't feel comfortable taking the speaker out and replacing it... =/ good luck if you can figure it out though!
Imaperson said:
Well, The speaker began making crackly death sounds in my epic. From what I've seen via google search and here on the forums, It isn't entirely uncommon.
I've tinkered with some electronics before so i decided to avoid the whole going back to stock thing and picked up a speaker on ebay and replaced it. Along the way i decided to pick apart the failed bit. Took a few pictures but I am unsure of the cause of problems since i damaged the speaker prying the metal cover off. But I figure that one of the corners of the cone is getting popped inward and not letting the speaker do its thing.
If anyone else happens to have a failed/ noisy speaker and cares to take it apart please take a picture or two. I am simply curious as to if the corners are just creasing themselves inward somehow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If I can find a speaker on Ebay, I will certainly give it a shot. This distortion is really bugging me. If I turn it up, it sounds like crap. If I turn it down, I get no ringtone, so I miss calls.
I got the same issue. I thought it was related to eb13.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk
Imaperson said:
Well, The speaker began making crackly death sounds in my epic. From what I've seen via google search and here on the forums, It isn't entirely uncommon.
I've tinkered with some electronics before so i decided to avoid the whole going back to stock thing and picked up a speaker on ebay and replaced it. Along the way i decided to pick apart the failed bit. Took a few pictures but I am unsure of the cause of problems since i damaged the speaker prying the metal cover off. But I figure that one of the corners of the cone is getting popped inward and not letting the speaker do its thing.
If anyone else happens to have a failed/ noisy speaker and cares to take it apart please take a picture or two. I am simply curious as to if the corners are just creasing themselves inward somehow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just replaced the big speaker on my epic, the sound works,but now I have to signal. Can't connect to the towers. Any suggestions?
Check the wire that leads to the antenna. Its a tiny one.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
austin420 said:
Check the wire that leads to the antenna. Its a tiny one.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It attaches to the speaker asembly, on the right side, grey ish right? When I replaced the speaker, the wire didn't seem to reattch right. should it be replaced? Any idea where I can get one?
Imaperson said:
Well, The speaker began making crackly death sounds in my epic. From what I've seen via google search and here on the forums, It isn't entirely uncommon.
I've tinkered with some electronics before so i decided to avoid the whole going back to stock thing and picked up a speaker on ebay and replaced it. Along the way i decided to pick apart the failed bit. Took a few pictures but I am unsure of the cause of problems since i damaged the speaker prying the metal cover off. But I figure that one of the corners of the cone is getting popped inward and not letting the speaker do its thing.
If anyone else happens to have a failed/ noisy speaker and cares to take it apart please take a picture or two. I am simply curious as to if the corners are just creasing themselves inward somehow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
glad to see im not the only one with this issue. my speaker sound like ass! unfortunately im not hardware savy enough to gut my epic but im gonna try and get my buddy at the repair center to see if he can fix it for me at his place instead of having to flash to stock to get it fixed then reflashing everything.
I always assumed it was an improper grounding issue, not the speaker itself. Different firmwares and ROMS have produced different results, so I have my doubts about the speaker being the issue.
Ya, mine is "blown" too... but it happened one day while I was at work... on silent. I was also kinda thinking it has more to do with software than hardware... but it hasn't fixed itself yet and it's been almost 2 weeks.
Looks like I might be doing the Odin thing soon, thank goodness for TEP.
Well, mine started to sound blown too. It happened overnight, I wasnt even using the speaker. Im farked too because I dont have insurance on this thing. Is this a software issue or what?
futureprospect said:
Well, mine started to sound blown too. It happened overnight, I wasnt even using the speaker. Im farked too because I dont have insurance on this thing. Is this a software issue or what?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just for the record, if your wire wont attach again, its because the technicians have a special tool to pop in on and off.
If your speaker isn't working, take it into a repair center. If they can fix it in store and it's under warranty, it will cost you $35. If you have insurance, then it should be no cost. The store I went to was cool about custom roms and rooting, was even asking me about it.The store I went to was not a corporate store as there are no corporate stores in the area that do repairs.
Forgot to mention that if they can't fix it in store, they will send to Samsung and Samsung will send a refurbished model. So in that sense, it may be a good idea to Odin.
Mutiny32 said:
I always assumed it was an improper grounding issue, not the speaker itself. Different firmwares and ROMS have produced different results, so I have my doubts about the speaker being the issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was hoping it would be a software issue but no amount of flashing back to stock would fix it. It started when my alarm went off one morning. Started out fine then turned to crackly death sounds all at once.
So far so good on the replacement speaker however.
Imaperson said:
I was hoping it would be a software issue but no amount of flashing back to stock would fix it. It started when my alarm went off one morning. Started out fine then turned to crackly death sounds all at once.
So far so good on the replacement speaker however.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yup, exactly how mine malfunctioned. I set the alarm, worked when i set it, then woke up to a gawd awfull crackly noise, and the speaker was blown.
Since i don't have TEP, should i just try and buy it and replace it myself or go back to stock and have the techs look at it at my sprint store?
I am experincing the "blowing" or "bursting" speakers, too, all of a sudden. I am on Bonsai 4.0.1, but I experienced that on stock ROM, too. I wish we can find a solid solution to this intriguing issue.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
It might not actually be blown!
Long time reader, first time poster.
Ok, here is what I discovered about the Epic speaker. Like everyone else here I had my speaker die the same way, suddenly was distorted at any normal volume and no sound when you turned the volume to low, after awhile it just up and quit.
One thing i did discover was the if I tapped the speaker module it would start working again but blown sounding, so I thought "hmmm, seems like a loose connection". Got bored the other night and decided to take the speaker module out and see if I could spot a loose connector. No, no such luck, so after tearing the speaker module apart and playing with it, I narrowed it down to a bad solder joint in the ?diode? array under the red goo. when i would flex the cable it the speaker would suddenly start working again normally (no distortion, nice loud volume).
Now, as near as I can tell, Samsung is only using 2 leads of the connector hence the diode array (best guess due to the wiring pattern), voltage one way and the speaker plays, voltage the other way and the vibration motor runs. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
Unfortunately, I cannot say if this is a permanent fix or not, my diodes appear to have taken some damage due to me continuing playing around with the speaker module while it was on (Either cumulative from running it messed up, or maybe I shorted them while I was poking around; but the speaker volume decreased gradually over time, no distortion though). But I do know for awhile everything was working fine, and my speaker worked like it was supposed to.
If any of you have the same problem, and can manage small surface mount work, this might be a way to save a few $$ or get it working again in short order since the only replacement speakers in can find right now appear to be coming out of Hong Kong with a long delivery time.
Hope this helps someone. Thanks for all the help that you guys have given me over the years.
As in everything in life, YMMV.
Hmm, I did not think to check out the wires while i had it out. I no longer have the broken part so if i encounter the issue again i know where to start looking.
Thanks!
I had the same problem. Thankfully i have best buy black tie insurance.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA Premium App

[Q]Is this a LCD or a digitizer problem?

I hate making new threads... but I've been looking at different places and haven't found the right answers to my questions... so yeah.
I have a GREEN LENS Defy MB525. It has gone through some trouble. It has some blue marks and such on the screen.
I found this and will be trying the method soon to see if the screen gets fixed. But, the owner of the phone had disassembled it to change the ear piece that was broken. Afterwards, the phone's screen doesn't take all the touches.
On the QWERTY screen, when you try to use the "Shift key or any of the letters (zxc...) on the phone, it takes the keys on top of them or below them.
I want to try to fix the phone but I don't know if it's a problem with the LCD that needs to be replaced, the digitizer or simply something else entirely.
The phone is running CM 10 2ndboot 2012-12-31 but it does the same on stock. I already tested it.
Any tips or help will be appreciated to finally have a working Defy
I also found this but since I don't have another screen to use for testing... well yeah...
I had such problems before after changing the speakerphone . All I did was to get a new digitizer and clean the inner screen using lighter fluid
Sent from a Motorola Defy
Okay, so it appears to be a digitizer problem?? Alright.
xXLostsoul111Xx said:
Okay, so it appears to be a digitizer problem?? Alright.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When in doubt , change both
Sent from a Motorola Defy
xXLostsoul111Xx said:
Okay, so it appears to be a digitizer problem?? Alright.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Because you put the phone in the freezer you maybe destroy the digitizer but also be aware to check ALL the contacts and terminals from the motherboard for oxidization.
I was asking because I don't wanna invest into something that isn't really needed. Don't have a steady income. >.>
xXLostsoul111Xx said:
I was asking because I don't wanna invest into something that isn't really needed. Don't have a steady income. >.>
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't put my Defy in the freezer though
Sent from a Motorola Defy
I haven't put it in the freezer yet.
I am thinking of doing it since it seemed to produce results in that thread.
I specifically said "will be trying the method soon".
Since it's such a strange advice I have yet to do it. I wanted to asked about my other problems before trying that.
The circles on the screen I am aiming to fix with the freezer thing have nothing to do with my problem since I've had those circles from way before the problem appeared.
It appeared when the phone was disassembled to change the earpiece. Please don't jump to conclusions so quickly. I am only considering that method to fix the circles in the screen since Auris posted in that thread favoring it.
Auris 1.6 vvt-i said:
Wrap it up in a plastic bag. Wrap it reeeeeeeally good, then duct tape it. After taking it out of the freezer, let it stay with the bag for at least 6 to 8 hours, 'cause when you take a cold object into a warm room, it condenses. Make sure your phone is well acclimated and there is no condense whatsoever. Then you can unwrap it and put the battery back in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
All that aside... since the freezer thing is not really relevant to the state of the phone as of writing this message...
Is there a way to know if the digitizer is busted? or the LCD? It was fine until my friend opened the phone to change the earpiece then the phone started showing the weird symptom where it wouldn't let him type any letter on the third line of the keyboard (zxc...). I tried the Android keyboard (AOSP) and swiftkey 3. The problem still persist even if I go to stock rom.
Let make a little light: The color problem relied to LCD and the keyboard malfunctioning is from digitizer. Because is improbable to broke both from one shot disassemble again, reattach CAREFULLY the digitizer and LCD and power on. Good luck.

Really strange screen issue

Hi all
So I just installed a few games on my Nexus 4 this evening and noticed some areas of the screen not responding. Its isolated to about a 1cm from the left on my screen. When I enable the "show touches" option under developer options I can see the ball jump when I move my finger over the area. Whats odd is that the very edge reports OK and I can swipe to Google Now without issue.
I was using PA with Franco and just as a test revered to stock and it seemed to work however after about 5 mins it went back to the same behaviour. Once again I installed my stock nandroid and now its just jumping like it was. So confused!
I guess some software is running and causing issue or the screen is over sensitive in that area me touching it is causing issue. Its worth noting that I changed the screen a few days ago so it could be the connectors but could it be isolated due to a connection?
bert682 said:
Hi all
So I just installed a few games on my Nexus 4 this evening and noticed some areas of the screen not responding. Its isolated to about a 1cm from the left on my screen. When I enable the "show touches" option under developer options I can see the ball jump when I move my finger over the area. Whats odd is that the very edge reports OK and I can swipe to Google Now without issue.
I was using PA with Franco and just as a test revered to stock and it seemed to work however after about 5 mins it went back to the same behaviour. Once again I installed my stock nandroid and now its just jumping like it was. So confused!
I guess some software is running and causing issue or the screen is over sensitive in that area me touching it is causing issue. Its worth noting that I changed the screen a few days ago so it could be the connectors but could it be isolated due to a connection?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so I was able to use the old screen (cracked) in a frankenstein fashion and it works 100% of the time. The current seen seems to work for a while and then goes back to missing that area.
Will try and return for a replacement.
bert682 said:
Ok so I was able to use the old screen (cracked) in a frankenstein fashion and it works 100% of the time. The current seen seems to work for a while and then goes back to missing that area.
Will try and return for a replacement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Update 3
So the issue has progressed to being intermittent. It will be broken for a few hours, then work OK for a few. This can happen at random,so, not plugged in as I suspect heat was an issue. I can get a text, its broken, pocket the phone and in 5 mins when I get the reply it can be working again.
Ive made a video of what its doing, notice the white dot "jump" when compared to the right.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0i6bdx3f4lWd3VmTWZXM0tjMTQ/edit?usp=sharing
Any suggestions?
You need a different screen if you want to fix it.
bert682 said:
Update 3
So the issue has progressed to being intermittent. It will be broken for a few hours, then work OK for a few. This can happen at random,so, not plugged in as I suspect heat was an issue. I can get a text, its broken, pocket the phone and in 5 mins when I get the reply it can be working again.
Ive made a video of what its doing, notice the white dot "jump" when compared to the right.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0i6bdx3f4lWd3VmTWZXM0tjMTQ/edit?usp=sharing
Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check that the flex cable isn't damaged, dirty or loose before you bother with a replacement. Either way, you probably need a replacement screen
lopezk38 said:
Check that the flex cable isn't damaged, dirty or loose before you bother with a replacement. Either way, you probably need a replacement screen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea I took it all apart and while the new one was connected I was able to connect the old one, upside down etc. It worked OK. Did a bit of a blow and properly pressing down on the connectors.
I could accept the screen is at fault at return it but when the issue is not 100% of the time I know my luck will be that when it gets tested at the sellers end it will work, get sent back to me and be broken again.
Have some monitoring apps running now so I can tell of its heat. Since this side is away from the battery im less incluined to think its heat from that. The motherboard does run down that side so it could be something in that? Ever seen any reports of that getting too hot?
Could even be heat from the antenna cable somehow?
Strange that it spans the whole length though.
Ill risk the return I think, got a video of it being broken so will see what happens.
Run over to Radio Shack (or whatever the equivalent is in what ever country you're in - I don't know where you are) and find a product called Deoxit/Progold. Deoxit cleans the contacts from oxidation, Progold enhances conductivity. Or find something similar.
This stuff is great for blasting inside headphone jacks to get rid of the "scratching" when your plug gets moved around, to fix iffy USB connections, etc. A little goes a long way. I don't know if it'll solve your screen issues, but it's worth a try, and if it doesn't work, you can still use it on other things, so it's not a waste of money.
Planterz said:
Run over to Radio Shack (or whatever the equivalent is in what ever country you're in - I don't know where you are) and find a product called Deoxit/Progold. Deoxit cleans the contacts from oxidation, Progold enhances conductivity. Or find something similar.
This stuff is great for blasting inside headphone jacks to get rid of the "scratching" when your plug gets moved around, to fix iffy USB connections, etc. A little goes a long way. I don't know if it'll solve your screen issues, but it's worth a try, and if it doesn't work, you can still use it on other things, so it's not a waste of money.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, that stuff isnt cheap. Lets hope a little does go a long way!
Thanks, have ordered a small bottle, will give it a go.
I noticed that my new screen is genuine LG (at least its stamped all over it) but the one I removed seems to be a 3rd party replacement. Its got some areas that "look cheap" in comparison. Its got a small foil coating over the flex cable where as the one I removed didnt. I assume its to protect and move heat away?
Few forum posts mention the use of 3rd party chargers....I have used a cheap one when I am in work. I have used in on my old HTC Desire HD and my Lumia 520 and never had an issue. Do you think it could have damaged the digitiser?
bert682 said:
Wow, that stuff isnt cheap. Lets hope a little does go a long way!
Thanks, have ordered a small bottle, will give it a go.
I noticed that my new screen is genuine LG (at least its stamped all over it) but the one I removed seems to be a 3rd party replacement. Its got some areas that "look cheap" in comparison. Its got a small foil coating over the flex cable where as the one I removed didnt. I assume its to protect and move heat away?
Few forum posts mention the use of 3rd party chargers....I have used a cheap one when I am in work. I have used in on my old HTC Desire HD and my Lumia 520 and never had an issue. Do you think it could have damaged the digitiser?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interestingly enough , the original digitizer is wrapped with aluminum tape. Some knockoffs have a better cover in fact. They use a hard aluminum sheet instead of aluminum tape. Some knockoffs don't have that shielding which is bad because that tape is there to keep the IC from getting spammed with useless data by radio frequencies and such.
If you haven't dropped your device , i don'T think it is likely that there is a problem with the glass. It's most likely the IC.
You could transfer your old flex to your new glass which is easy but you need some seriously steady hands.
When you remove the glass from the frame , you will see the flex cable's contact zone. It's basically the part where it connects to the glass. If you heat that area up with a heat gun it's gonna come right off when the solder beneath melts. Take out the new one and the old one. You need a flathead tip for your solering iron , which is like a flathead screwdriver. Simply take some solder and spread that solder around the contact dots , don't worry it won't stick to the plastic but it will melt if you keep it at the same spot too much. When you're done spreading , there are two dots with which you can align your old flex cable to your new glass. Use some adhesive tape around the alignment dots and Align the dots with your flex cable (you'll know which dots when you see it because it's orange and kinda stands out) press it so the adhesive holds and then use your heat gun and melt the solder to the contact zone.
It's actually easier than it sounds.

Missing IR blaster?!?!

Just bought a (supposedly) brand new H918 on ebay. Just noticed today that the ir port is covered (filled?) With a piece of plastic. I realized this when I checked easy remote, and it didn't work with my Sony bravia.
Anybody else experience this? Could this phone be a "knock off"? Are theRe fake v20 out there?
Any info I can learn before I approach the dealer would be good.....
Thanks everybody...
Kevin
PS I'm not having luck finding an app that enumerates and/or tests the hardware in a phone. I have a vague suspicion that the hardware is all present, but That the plastic knockout didn't get knocked out, and is covering the ir blaster itself.
wyldnewbie said:
Just bought a (supposedly) brand new H918 on ebay. Just noticed today that the ir port is covered (filled?) With a piece of plastic. I realized this when I checked easy remote, and it didn't work with my Sony bravia.
Anybody else experience this? Could this phone be a "knock off"? Are theRe fake v20 out there?
Any info I can learn before I approach the dealer would be good.....
Thanks everybody...
Kevin
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the same problem on my LG G3 (at&t). My IR blaster was not functional, other than that everything was ok. I think your unit has similar problem. It would be nice if you can ask your dealer and resolve it with them.
If the IR blaster is on the top right corner then mine is also filled with a plastic cover yet mines functions as per normal.
I dont think its meant to be hollow but filled in with a different shade of grey plastic.
Maybe try the LG quick remote app again, for me its sometimes a bit flakey to read the unit your trying to control sometimes taking forever then you exit prematurely and it functions. Then sometimes it sweeps the unit fast and you have a remote.
The IR diode is covered with a plastic plug that blocks visible light, but allows infra-red light -- hence it appears black. This is normal...
If the IR function of your phone isn't working, it isn't because there is "something in the hole".
-- Brian
runningnak3d said:
The IR diode is covered with a plastic plug that blocks visible light, but allows infra-red light -- hence it appears black. This is normal...
If the IR function of your phone isn't working, it isn't because there is "something in the hole".
-- Brian
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, Brian... Thanks for your input. I know that the IR emitter is usually a super dark red that looks black unless you are firing a very bright light through it. And yes, I grok IR transparency....but in this case, it isn't the dark plastic that is there, but silver plastic exactly the same shade of silver as the plastic head and heel parts. I actually suspect that it is the emitter covered with the same silver paint as the plastic around it. Either that, or possibly a plastic 'knockout' left over from the molding process, that didn't get knocked out.
Although my phone was sold to me as" new in sealed box" ,im not entirely certain that isn't a factory second in some way.
The retailer has offered me an exchange, so I think I may take it, and hope that I have better luck with the next box they send me.
I know that I've seen a few threads titled along the lines of "return your v20 to stock", but I thought since I'm typing a response to you re the IR problem, I figured it can't hurt to ask you if you have a particular method you'd suggest.
I love this phone, but am a bit intimidated by how easy it seems to brick. Rooting and modding really kinda feels like I'm playing with a $300.00 grenade.
I hope it doesn't sound like insincere flattery, because I am very sincerely thankful for having somebody with your knowledge and skill set being such a regular and excellent contributor to the v20 XDA boards.
Anyway, I will be very grateful for any recommendations you might feel like making, in regards to my getting TWRP and SuperV20 out, and the stock OS and recovery (and LAF?) back in.
Thank you
Kevin
goulash2011 said:
If the IR blaster is on the top right corner then mine is also filled with a plastic cover yet mines functions as per normal.
I dont think its meant to be hollow but filled in with a different shade of grey plastic.
Maybe try the LG quick remote app again, for me its sometimes a bit flakey to read the unit your trying to control sometimes taking forever then you exit prematurely and it functions. Then sometimes it sweeps the unit fast and you have a remote.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does your plastic cover look black or a super dark red?
That's what I would expect, but in this case the hole is filled with something that is the exact same color of silver that the plastic head of the phone is.
I suspect either the emitter was painted with the same paint that the plastic head was covered with, or possibly that it was a knockout left over from the manufacturing process, that didn't get knocked out. I believe the IR emitter is there or below there but I'm being offered an exchange, so I think I'm going to take it and hope that the next machine i get is in better condition
@wyldnewbie I must have missed the part where it is silver. I think you are probably correct, and when it was painted, the masking was messed up and it was painted. Have you tried using a paperclip to scrape the paint?
I have one right here, and I just tried scraping the painted part of my phone to see if it would scratch, and it doesn't. However, paint should come off plastic fairly easily. With that said, if you have the option to exchange it, I can see why you wouldn't want to try that.
So, onto your "back to stock" question. The easiest way is to flash a KDZ. It doesn't matter which version, as long as it is 10p or higher. If you have TWRP on laf, there is a zip in the lafsploit thread that you can flash to get download mode back. Once you have flashed the KDZ, boot to stock recovery and do a factory reset. You might want to boot the phone and make sure that FRP wasn't triggered, and if it was, login and then remove your Google account, and then do another factory reset. The phone will be back to new, and they will never know that you rooted it.
Lastly, thanks for the compliment. Unless some OEM gets their head out of their a**, I will be around here for years to come.
EDIT: mine looks black, but it could be dark red, but it is too small to tell. I can tell your that it is completely flush with the case, there isn't an indentation, and it doesn't protrude. It just looks like a black dot.
-- Brian
wyldnewbie said:
Does your plastic cover look black or a super dark red?
That's what I would expect, but in this case the hole is filled with something that is the exact same color of silver that the plastic head of the phone is.
I suspect either the emitter was painted with the same paint that the plastic head was covered with, or possibly that it was a knockout left over from the manufacturing process, that didn't get knocked out. I believe the IR emitter is there or below there but I'm being offered an exchange, so I think I'm going to take it and hope that the next machine i get is in better condition
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mines black or could be super dark red..
runningnak3d said:
@wyldnewbie I must have missed the part where it is silver. I think you are probably correct, and when it was painted, the masking was messed up and it was painted. Have you tried using a paperclip to scrape the paint?
I have one right here, and I just tried scraping the painted part of my phone to see if it would scratch, and it doesn't. However, paint should come off plastic fairly easily. With that said, if you have the option to exchange it, I can see why you wouldn't want to try that.
So, onto your "back to stock" question. The easiest way is to flash a KDZ. It doesn't matter which version, as long as it is 10p or higher. If you have TWRP on laf, there is a zip in the lafsploit thread that you can flash to get download mode back. Once you have flashed the KDZ, boot to stock recovery and do a factory reset. You might want to boot the phone and make sure that FRP wasn't triggered, and if it was, login and then remove your Google account, and then do another factory reset. The phone will be back to new, and they will never know that you rooted it.
Lastly, thanks for the compliment. Unless some OEM gets their head out of their a**, I will be around here for years to come.
EDIT: mine looks black, but it could be dark red, but it is too small to tell. I can tell your that it is completely flush with the case, there isn't an indentation, and it doesn't protrude. It just looks like a black dot.
-- Brian
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey Brian,
Well, last night I ordered and paid for another V20, because I didn't want to have to do without the phone for any length of time. (They'll refund the money when they get the old one), but I thought I might try your advice, and try to scrape the paint a bit. Tada! It works....
Its ok that I ordered another one, because I had observed a couple of other deficiencies with this phone ... And would rather not have deficiencies at all, with something advertised as 'brand new in box'.
AnywAy, I guess it'll be another 3 weeks or so until I get the new one, and then I'll do the return to stock thing.....
Just thought I'd let you know that you were right about the paint.
Glad it worked out for you.
Mind if I ask what other problems you are having?
-- Brian
I couldnt get any IR app to work with my phone. Tried mostly anymote smart remote.
Only the one that came with the phone works fine. It's made by lg.
will5 said:
I couldnt get any IR app to work with my phone. Tried mostly anymote smart remote.
Only the one that came with the phone works fine. It's made by lg.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've had this issue with some other IR remote apps and it has something to do with the way LG implemented their IR sensor codes?? I found a few generic looking ones that aren't flashy but they work. A lot of the popular ones (Anymote) on Google play don't work with LG which sucks coming from my S4 which worked with practically everything IR related and some require the LG IR app to be installed to actually work. I don't use the IR on this phone really so it was mainly just experimentation out of curiosity at the time but I'll see if I can dig up the other apps that worked right for ya
Yes, I was using a samsung phone with anymote and worked pretty fine.
Anymote devs didnt say anything about lg not working, but I guess it's correct.
So, ill keep using the lg one. Not so great but gets the job done.
If you find another one working, will be great.
Thanks
KUSOsan said:
I've had this issue with some other IR remote apps and it has something to do with the way LG implemented their IR sensor codes?? I found a few generic looking ones that aren't flashy but they work. A lot of the popular ones (Anymote) on Google play don't work with LG which sucks coming from my S4 which worked with practically everything IR related and some require the LG IR app to be installed to actually work. I don't use the IR on this phone really so it was mainly just experimentation out of curiosity at the time but I'll see if I can dig up the other apps that worked right for ya
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
will5 said:
Yes, I was using a samsung phone with anymote and worked pretty fine.
Anymote devs didnt say anything about lg not working, but I guess it's correct.
So, ill keep using the lg one. Not so great but gets the job done.
If you find another one working, will be great.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure what the problem is, but I had no problem using anymote when I was on stock based roms (lineage 15.1 has issues where it works briefly but then stops for a while.. I and others have had good luck with it on Gamma kernel). There's an option in Anymote's settings called use alternate commands or similar that if you flip it might fix it.
@Phoenix591
I don't use the IR that much but I remember anymote didn't work when I tried it and they had a specific note in their store page just for LG users about how LG used different IR system or something and I don't remember if I tried the alternate commands or not I'll have to try it again and see.
Maybe has to do with phone variants.
H990ds is kind of different from other variants.
I had some apps giving problems on 990ds that were working fine on 910A.
Not sure if IR problems could be related.
Shoot Brian, I never saw this until right now! I was checking your instructions as I'm about to start returning the first H918 I bought.
There were a few things wrong with this machine I'd bought:
It was NOT new, as was advertised; the screen protectors 2nd film wasn't on it, the camera lens had been replaced with a third party/aftermarket plastic lens.
The charger wouldn't fast charge, and the micro SD slot was flaky. The earphones were branded LG, and were far worse quality than dollar store headphones. And the volume control on them didn't work, also, there was paint flaked off the plastic on the release button for removing the back. And if course, the IR was painted over.
Also, I couldn't get any modified stock RIMs to boot, unless I removed the mods....
The next one was better thank God!
Kevin
Late to this thread but I can confirm that units now being sold (probably B stock) have their IR LEDs painted over in varying degrees. I got a "new" 995 that showed no activity when viewed with an IR sensitive camera. I got a second unit which had very low output from the port. Under magnification it was clear that the LED had the same finish as the top trim piece. Light scraping with a micro flat head screw driver successfully removed the coating from the LED and enabled full IR output. Side note, the first unit also would not maintain a connection to 3G or 4G. The second unit had no radio problems.

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