Just bought a (supposedly) brand new H918 on ebay. Just noticed today that the ir port is covered (filled?) With a piece of plastic. I realized this when I checked easy remote, and it didn't work with my Sony bravia.
Anybody else experience this? Could this phone be a "knock off"? Are theRe fake v20 out there?
Any info I can learn before I approach the dealer would be good.....
Thanks everybody...
Kevin
PS I'm not having luck finding an app that enumerates and/or tests the hardware in a phone. I have a vague suspicion that the hardware is all present, but That the plastic knockout didn't get knocked out, and is covering the ir blaster itself.
wyldnewbie said:
Just bought a (supposedly) brand new H918 on ebay. Just noticed today that the ir port is covered (filled?) With a piece of plastic. I realized this when I checked easy remote, and it didn't work with my Sony bravia.
Anybody else experience this? Could this phone be a "knock off"? Are theRe fake v20 out there?
Any info I can learn before I approach the dealer would be good.....
Thanks everybody...
Kevin
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the same problem on my LG G3 (at&t). My IR blaster was not functional, other than that everything was ok. I think your unit has similar problem. It would be nice if you can ask your dealer and resolve it with them.
If the IR blaster is on the top right corner then mine is also filled with a plastic cover yet mines functions as per normal.
I dont think its meant to be hollow but filled in with a different shade of grey plastic.
Maybe try the LG quick remote app again, for me its sometimes a bit flakey to read the unit your trying to control sometimes taking forever then you exit prematurely and it functions. Then sometimes it sweeps the unit fast and you have a remote.
The IR diode is covered with a plastic plug that blocks visible light, but allows infra-red light -- hence it appears black. This is normal...
If the IR function of your phone isn't working, it isn't because there is "something in the hole".
-- Brian
runningnak3d said:
The IR diode is covered with a plastic plug that blocks visible light, but allows infra-red light -- hence it appears black. This is normal...
If the IR function of your phone isn't working, it isn't because there is "something in the hole".
-- Brian
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, Brian... Thanks for your input. I know that the IR emitter is usually a super dark red that looks black unless you are firing a very bright light through it. And yes, I grok IR transparency....but in this case, it isn't the dark plastic that is there, but silver plastic exactly the same shade of silver as the plastic head and heel parts. I actually suspect that it is the emitter covered with the same silver paint as the plastic around it. Either that, or possibly a plastic 'knockout' left over from the molding process, that didn't get knocked out.
Although my phone was sold to me as" new in sealed box" ,im not entirely certain that isn't a factory second in some way.
The retailer has offered me an exchange, so I think I may take it, and hope that I have better luck with the next box they send me.
I know that I've seen a few threads titled along the lines of "return your v20 to stock", but I thought since I'm typing a response to you re the IR problem, I figured it can't hurt to ask you if you have a particular method you'd suggest.
I love this phone, but am a bit intimidated by how easy it seems to brick. Rooting and modding really kinda feels like I'm playing with a $300.00 grenade.
I hope it doesn't sound like insincere flattery, because I am very sincerely thankful for having somebody with your knowledge and skill set being such a regular and excellent contributor to the v20 XDA boards.
Anyway, I will be very grateful for any recommendations you might feel like making, in regards to my getting TWRP and SuperV20 out, and the stock OS and recovery (and LAF?) back in.
Thank you
Kevin
goulash2011 said:
If the IR blaster is on the top right corner then mine is also filled with a plastic cover yet mines functions as per normal.
I dont think its meant to be hollow but filled in with a different shade of grey plastic.
Maybe try the LG quick remote app again, for me its sometimes a bit flakey to read the unit your trying to control sometimes taking forever then you exit prematurely and it functions. Then sometimes it sweeps the unit fast and you have a remote.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does your plastic cover look black or a super dark red?
That's what I would expect, but in this case the hole is filled with something that is the exact same color of silver that the plastic head of the phone is.
I suspect either the emitter was painted with the same paint that the plastic head was covered with, or possibly that it was a knockout left over from the manufacturing process, that didn't get knocked out. I believe the IR emitter is there or below there but I'm being offered an exchange, so I think I'm going to take it and hope that the next machine i get is in better condition
@wyldnewbie I must have missed the part where it is silver. I think you are probably correct, and when it was painted, the masking was messed up and it was painted. Have you tried using a paperclip to scrape the paint?
I have one right here, and I just tried scraping the painted part of my phone to see if it would scratch, and it doesn't. However, paint should come off plastic fairly easily. With that said, if you have the option to exchange it, I can see why you wouldn't want to try that.
So, onto your "back to stock" question. The easiest way is to flash a KDZ. It doesn't matter which version, as long as it is 10p or higher. If you have TWRP on laf, there is a zip in the lafsploit thread that you can flash to get download mode back. Once you have flashed the KDZ, boot to stock recovery and do a factory reset. You might want to boot the phone and make sure that FRP wasn't triggered, and if it was, login and then remove your Google account, and then do another factory reset. The phone will be back to new, and they will never know that you rooted it.
Lastly, thanks for the compliment. Unless some OEM gets their head out of their a**, I will be around here for years to come.
EDIT: mine looks black, but it could be dark red, but it is too small to tell. I can tell your that it is completely flush with the case, there isn't an indentation, and it doesn't protrude. It just looks like a black dot.
-- Brian
wyldnewbie said:
Does your plastic cover look black or a super dark red?
That's what I would expect, but in this case the hole is filled with something that is the exact same color of silver that the plastic head of the phone is.
I suspect either the emitter was painted with the same paint that the plastic head was covered with, or possibly that it was a knockout left over from the manufacturing process, that didn't get knocked out. I believe the IR emitter is there or below there but I'm being offered an exchange, so I think I'm going to take it and hope that the next machine i get is in better condition
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mines black or could be super dark red..
runningnak3d said:
@wyldnewbie I must have missed the part where it is silver. I think you are probably correct, and when it was painted, the masking was messed up and it was painted. Have you tried using a paperclip to scrape the paint?
I have one right here, and I just tried scraping the painted part of my phone to see if it would scratch, and it doesn't. However, paint should come off plastic fairly easily. With that said, if you have the option to exchange it, I can see why you wouldn't want to try that.
So, onto your "back to stock" question. The easiest way is to flash a KDZ. It doesn't matter which version, as long as it is 10p or higher. If you have TWRP on laf, there is a zip in the lafsploit thread that you can flash to get download mode back. Once you have flashed the KDZ, boot to stock recovery and do a factory reset. You might want to boot the phone and make sure that FRP wasn't triggered, and if it was, login and then remove your Google account, and then do another factory reset. The phone will be back to new, and they will never know that you rooted it.
Lastly, thanks for the compliment. Unless some OEM gets their head out of their a**, I will be around here for years to come.
EDIT: mine looks black, but it could be dark red, but it is too small to tell. I can tell your that it is completely flush with the case, there isn't an indentation, and it doesn't protrude. It just looks like a black dot.
-- Brian
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey Brian,
Well, last night I ordered and paid for another V20, because I didn't want to have to do without the phone for any length of time. (They'll refund the money when they get the old one), but I thought I might try your advice, and try to scrape the paint a bit. Tada! It works....
Its ok that I ordered another one, because I had observed a couple of other deficiencies with this phone ... And would rather not have deficiencies at all, with something advertised as 'brand new in box'.
AnywAy, I guess it'll be another 3 weeks or so until I get the new one, and then I'll do the return to stock thing.....
Just thought I'd let you know that you were right about the paint.
Glad it worked out for you.
Mind if I ask what other problems you are having?
-- Brian
I couldnt get any IR app to work with my phone. Tried mostly anymote smart remote.
Only the one that came with the phone works fine. It's made by lg.
will5 said:
I couldnt get any IR app to work with my phone. Tried mostly anymote smart remote.
Only the one that came with the phone works fine. It's made by lg.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've had this issue with some other IR remote apps and it has something to do with the way LG implemented their IR sensor codes?? I found a few generic looking ones that aren't flashy but they work. A lot of the popular ones (Anymote) on Google play don't work with LG which sucks coming from my S4 which worked with practically everything IR related and some require the LG IR app to be installed to actually work. I don't use the IR on this phone really so it was mainly just experimentation out of curiosity at the time but I'll see if I can dig up the other apps that worked right for ya
Yes, I was using a samsung phone with anymote and worked pretty fine.
Anymote devs didnt say anything about lg not working, but I guess it's correct.
So, ill keep using the lg one. Not so great but gets the job done.
If you find another one working, will be great.
Thanks
KUSOsan said:
I've had this issue with some other IR remote apps and it has something to do with the way LG implemented their IR sensor codes?? I found a few generic looking ones that aren't flashy but they work. A lot of the popular ones (Anymote) on Google play don't work with LG which sucks coming from my S4 which worked with practically everything IR related and some require the LG IR app to be installed to actually work. I don't use the IR on this phone really so it was mainly just experimentation out of curiosity at the time but I'll see if I can dig up the other apps that worked right for ya
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
will5 said:
Yes, I was using a samsung phone with anymote and worked pretty fine.
Anymote devs didnt say anything about lg not working, but I guess it's correct.
So, ill keep using the lg one. Not so great but gets the job done.
If you find another one working, will be great.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure what the problem is, but I had no problem using anymote when I was on stock based roms (lineage 15.1 has issues where it works briefly but then stops for a while.. I and others have had good luck with it on Gamma kernel). There's an option in Anymote's settings called use alternate commands or similar that if you flip it might fix it.
@Phoenix591
I don't use the IR that much but I remember anymote didn't work when I tried it and they had a specific note in their store page just for LG users about how LG used different IR system or something and I don't remember if I tried the alternate commands or not I'll have to try it again and see.
Maybe has to do with phone variants.
H990ds is kind of different from other variants.
I had some apps giving problems on 990ds that were working fine on 910A.
Not sure if IR problems could be related.
Shoot Brian, I never saw this until right now! I was checking your instructions as I'm about to start returning the first H918 I bought.
There were a few things wrong with this machine I'd bought:
It was NOT new, as was advertised; the screen protectors 2nd film wasn't on it, the camera lens had been replaced with a third party/aftermarket plastic lens.
The charger wouldn't fast charge, and the micro SD slot was flaky. The earphones were branded LG, and were far worse quality than dollar store headphones. And the volume control on them didn't work, also, there was paint flaked off the plastic on the release button for removing the back. And if course, the IR was painted over.
Also, I couldn't get any modified stock RIMs to boot, unless I removed the mods....
The next one was better thank God!
Kevin
Late to this thread but I can confirm that units now being sold (probably B stock) have their IR LEDs painted over in varying degrees. I got a "new" 995 that showed no activity when viewed with an IR sensitive camera. I got a second unit which had very low output from the port. Under magnification it was clear that the LED had the same finish as the top trim piece. Light scraping with a micro flat head screw driver successfully removed the coating from the LED and enabled full IR output. Side note, the first unit also would not maintain a connection to 3G or 4G. The second unit had no radio problems.
Related
This fix might sound crazy but it works
i have 2 evo's version 002 both with pretty bad light leakage under the buttons. One has 3 buttons and the second 2. In the dark they are very visible and i was getting annoying ready to return both. I tried the blowdryer trick but that did not work.
This is what i did about a week a ago, it only takes a minute.
Go get one of this which you might have laying around your house.
http://www.oppictures.com/singleimages/400/SAN82001_1_1.JPG
Go to a dark area where you are able to see the leakage and start painting let line between the plastic and leakage. try pushing down the plastic to and using the pen to paint some of of the inner cover. Get a towel and remove the ink that got into the screen and bottom cover.
After doing this my phone have not shown any leakage. i have tried water in a towel to see if it would remove the ink and show light leakage but no leakage what so ever (do not try alcohol). This fix is invisible to the naked eyes, i have 4 friends with evo's and they could not tell what i did, even after telling them they still did not know where was painted
This is an easy cheap fix, it takes about 2 minutes and anyone (and i mean anyone) can do it.
So please if it make you feel better returning bu
eduardmc said:
This fix might sound crazy but it works?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you asking us? i dunno, did you try it?
i dunno....seems ghetto, seems htc should have used done better r&d.
Hmm, I'd just like a $200 phone to work in the first place, not start falling apart 7 days in. :|
skoobz said:
Are you asking us? i dunno, did you try it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sorry, i fixed it. English is not my native language so i do make alot of mistake in my writings.
Hrshycro said:
Hmm, I'd just like a $200 phone to work in the first place, not start falling apart 7 days in. :|
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't believe i have had a phone that did not have any kind of problems related to software and hardware. The palm pre was a mess every new one i got had dead pixels, after 6 unit i finally got one that had 2 dead pixels. My diamonds phone use to get boiling hot. i could go on. all my friends iphones had drop calls like 20 calls a days (most switch to evo with me).
now the evil have a few problems, like the back cover not been flush and that was solved with a peace of small paper on top of the battery.
You will fine defect, nothing is perfect.
Interesting fix but it doesn't eliminate the fact the leak is happening because the screen is separating. Pushing the screen down will eliminate the leaking. The best fix will be to make sure the screen is sitting all the way down. So far I've only seen one guy do it on androidforums by pushing the screen down with clamps and heating it with a hair dryer. After letting it sit over night he didn't have any more leaking or lifting after two days. We have yet to hear from him on the progress (I think he ended up exchanging it anyway). Another guy said he tried the same fix and ended up making his phone worse.
thanks this is a nice cosmetic band aid If i don't see it, it doesn't bother me as much
coolguy949 said:
Interesting fix but it doesn't eliminate the fact the leak is happening because the screen is separating. Pushing the screen down will eliminate the leaking. The best fix will be to make sure the screen is sitting all the way down. So far I've only seen one guy do it on androidforums by pushing the screen down with clamps and heating it with a hair dryer. After letting it sit over night he didn't have any more leaking or lifting after two days. We have yet to hear from him on the progress (I think he ended up exchanging it anyway). Another guy said he tried the same fix and ended up making his phone worse.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah but it seems the screen separation on happens the first few days of using the device and the progress stop. my device did not progress after i notice the leakage and was looking for a fix. This kind of fix the problem since you won't see the light leakage at all. The screen separation is wasn't really a problem since i only notice it when the light leakage is visible.
Again the point is missed. This does not prevent the fact that in time the leakage will evolve into screen separating from the base. The light is leaking because the adhesive used during rush manufacturing wad improperly sealed around the face of the device. This was a huge problem for the iphone (didn't think it would happen to me but here I am with my evo)
This worked like a charm I've already exchanged my EVO twice (on my 3rd evo). The first two had dead pixels, and all three have had the light leak. I'm not in the mood to go through the RMA process with HTC, so this fix was a perfect solution for me. I tried a similar fix using superglue on one of the other EVOs I had, but it left an unsightly white residue in the crack of the screen.
While this may not be a permanent solution to the problem with the screen coming unglued, I'm ecstatic that I no longer have to see light coming from the bottom of my screen.
Thanks a lot.
This thread. ... with that Expo 2 ... funny.
I found my own fix after trying several different things including tightening the torx screws, using a hair driver and clamps, and an expo dry erase marker. I read a post about using plastidip which I had, but unfortunately it was dried out. I then decided to use something else I had around. A fine tip black paint maker (Decocolor - LINK). I dabbed the tip on a piece of paper several times to get a little paint on the tip. I then carefully ran it across the edge where the light was leaking which allowed a very small amount of it to drip down in the crevice. I then ran a q-tip and a paper towel along the edge to make sure any that got outside of the crevice was removed. Now I have no light leakage. The paint is permanent, waterproof (not that I will be testing that) and will be easy to reapply if I ever need to. It also takes very little skill and the markers can be found at a local Michaels or arts/crafts store.
On a side note, the hairdryer/clamp method did help a little, but this paint maker did the job the rest of the way.
This is going to be basically a review, not a tutorial, of what I experienced after I re housed my R800x in white and the steps I went through to get it done, I have no prior knowledge on the process, I simple "went for it" and had success.
~~ Please Note: Performing this can seriously damage your phone and if done wrong will possibly permanently destroy your device, please read everything and do everything slowly, Please understand you may attempt this at your own risk, you have been warned! ~~
For a good understanding on how to tear your Play apart and not break anything check this video out, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3n5ZfkqhzE
You can find the White Housing I purchased in these 2 links
The outside of the screen (digitizer) as seen in First photo
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Touch-Scree...&otn=2&po=LVI&ps=63&clkid=7007674525043897251
The White Housing Top , Middle plate, Control pad plate and Back as seen in the Second and Third photos
(I have seen a cheaper one since I bought mine, but this is the one I bought)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FULL-Housin...500747?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item27bf9d978b
This link is another R800x thats branded Verizon but I doubt it having the service ribbon sticker (for lack of better words which comes into play later) because they dont show a back view of the Middle plate
http://cnn.cn/shop/sony-ericsson-xperia-play-cdma-black-housing-verizon-branded-p-12588.html
After getting your parts and watching the video you should be where I was at in Photo Four, my phone torn down and the new pieces ready to make this r800x look great.
Photos Five and Six -are close ups reviewing it all.
Photo Seven - is where I started, the touch joy stick pcb ribbon. It was kinda scary thinking if i rip this thing or pull to much that the touch pads wouldnt work anymore, and thanks to ShadowGun I was able to verify they still did. I used the blue tool for prying the phone , to help peal back the ribbon as you see it, you can give it a decent pull with your fingers as you get enough pealed up, try to pull as close to the glued end as possible so you dont risk tearing or something.
Photos Eight and Nine - I had finished moving the touch pad ribbon to the new white control pad plate and started removing the Menu, Start and Select buttons and transferring them to the white plate. Using the blue tool again sorta scrap up the backing to each of the; Menu and Start and Select buttons, it helps to push from the other side on the button a little. You need to try and not to deform the sticker/glue piece that holds the buttons in place or it might Not stick to good on the new plate, a sweat gripping moment that I first thought would just never work but patience does pay off in this step.
Photo Ten - it was all done, that piece at least.
From there I moved onto the the Middle Plate, which required a few steps if you decide you want to swap these out. One in particular that left me clueless for a few days without service, bare with me on this part..
There is a black Antenna sticker on the Bottom half of the Middle plate on your R800X, which has a gold ribbon on its opposite side that finishes a circuit, without this circuit completed your phone will Not have service and dialing *228 will not work your phone will tell you, in a mans voice "The code you have entered is in-correct please check you code and try again" - The first time I heard that I was thinking hmm thats probably not good and Verizon told me "thats not programmed in our system, you should Never get a msg like that or a mans voice" So I had them send me a replacement ( Of course I didnt mention this was all my fault and I re housed it, and thats the real reason I wouldnt go to the store to have it checked out, but that shouldnt matter right )
Upon getting the replacement phone I, for somehow the first time, Noticed the black sticker antenna on the back of the Middle plate. I grabbed my original housing and noticed the sticker antenna on it as well, so I pealed that off and revealed, to me which was previously unseen, this gold ribbon connects a circuit with two terminals on the phones mother board. The gold ribbons two ends slide into a slot on the Middle plate, underneath it to make the connection. I replaced this black sticker onto the new White Middle plate because the back of the L1 and R1 triggers are White and they are Black on the original Vz housing.
Photo Eleven-Shows the back of the New white trigger Middle plate, no black sticker antenna
Photo Twelve-The Middle plate from the Verizon replacement
Photos Antenna 2 and Antenna 3-These are the other 2 antennas also needed for service, be sure to pull those off and place them onto the new middle housing of your new phone.
For the r800i and r800a they have another antenna on the middle plate (I just dont have a photo :crying: I have an r800x) I can tell you at least that if your holding the middle housing and the Antenna 2 is on your right, the r800i/r800a other antenna will be on the left side of the housing.
Photo Thirteen- I wanted the White triggers so I super glued the black sticker antenna back on, worked out pretty good if you ask me, minus my thumb print of course. .
Photo Fourteen- I circled the inside area of the Middle plate where the you can see the opposite side of the gold ribbon that makes the connection with the mother board of the phone in the top half and you can see its not on the New Middle plate in the bottom half of the photo.
If you decide to go ahead and swap the Middle plate, you will need to remove the speakers as well and I cracked my original plate removing the left speaker, they are in there pretty tight, I basically pryed up on them in anyway that I wasn't destroying any part of them. As seen in Photo Fourteen
In Photo Fifteen I was now ready to replace the Top half of the phone and put the new Digitizer on. You wont need any extra glue here, the New White Half of the housing comes with a clear plastic film on it (sorry I had already removed before I took the photo) that was protecting some glue, thats seems to be holding up pretty good a week later and I dont think it will ever come off. Once you have replace you new Digitizer on the new Top half of the White housing, you are ready to reverse the steps seen in the Video linked at the beginning , once you have completed that you will be enjoying your newly housed in luxurious White and Silver Xperia Play as I am in the Final Photos.
I hope this helps, this was the first time I tore a phone apart physically and might have my "names of pieces" wrong but I tried to explain it in a way that makes sense and simple to look at. I do wanna make a video or something because I think anyone looking to do this would benefit more from a better "visual tutorial" but I dont have much time as id like to and this should serve good.
I hope in anyone who decides to go through with this, and enjoys having a white Xperia Play like I have
That looks awesome!!! Mind taking a couple photos of the screen and with it powered on to see how good this after market screen is? Awesome job and the white looks nice and clean.
I bought my Xperia Play in white so this doesn't apply to me. But you did a great job there ! looks brand new !
jgregoryj1 said:
That looks awesome!!! Mind taking a couple photos of the screen and with it powered on to see how good this after market screen is? Awesome job and the white looks nice and clean.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can definitelty take a few photos, I only replaced the outside of the screen, the actual lcd is the same from when I got the phone, the after market digitizer is just as clear an still allows the screen to keep its nice crisp image, Ill take a few photos later on though and update OP.
sufy1000 said:
I bought my Xperia Play in white so this doesn't apply to me. But you did a great job there ! looks brand new !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you! I wish Verizon had offered it in white but figures they didn't, I makes it all that much more mine now though.. custom rom , kernel, and now housing I like it so much more.
Thats sweet nice write up. I'll probably do mine later this year or next year after the case and screen gets worn down and scratched up a bit more.
Thanks for this,
Would you reccomend cheap cases as I have seen diffrent colours (blue,orange) which I wouldn't mind trying.
Thanks
AloushA said:
Thanks for this,
Would you reccomend cheap cases as I have seen diffrent colours (blue,orange) which I wouldn't mind trying.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your welcome, Do you mean an actual case for the phone or a new housing?
Sent from my R800x using xda premium
Thank you, good sir!
I really appreciate your work here and I'll use this guide as soon as my housing arrives.
I will be doing this very same project in a few days. What is the use of the black sticker? If i break it will my Play still work? Please reply
androidtechdaily said:
I will be doing this very same project in a few days. What is the use of the black sticker? If i break it will my Play still work? Please reply
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The black sticker completes a circuit that is needed for service. Idk exactly what circuit it completes but the sticker has a gold pcb type ribbon on it that makes contact with two pins on the motherboard. Without the black sticker in place your phone will boot with no service. I didn't find out until after the fact and if you look in my photo where I glued the sticker back on you can see its a little mangled but glued it down flat and my service is just as good as it always was . Well as good as 3g can be lol .. But to answer your last question as long as you pull the sticker off slowly and don't rip it you should be fine. The gold ribbon on the bottom half just can't be torn in half or the circuit won't complete. But it peeled off without tearing for me, just take your time and you should be good to go.
Sent from my R800x using xda premium
Great job mate!
How would You describe the operation difficulty from 1/10?
Ps. I have experience with w995 full rehousing and some others mobiles.
Hi, i wish to know what is beneath this 2 black square stickers marked in red circles, and what is their function.
Thanks
Great job, will keep this in mind, white looks so good, version didn't have that option
Sent from my little GIZMO ``\[©_o],,
I have the black one Xperia Play but i bought me the White Cover by amazon for 34,99€ (Complete and Original) But i dont think that i can do this without brick my phone ((
0mega007 said:
Hi, i wish to know what is beneath this 2 black square stickers marked in red circles, and what is their function.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is there a screw begind the stikers, holdding the l and r buttons hardware?
us there only black / white available?
Sent from my cm_tenderloin using XDA
Ill reply to everyone this evening!
Sent from my R800x using xda premium
shakalek said:
Great job mate!
How would You describe the operation difficulty from 1/10?
Ps. I have experience with w995 full rehousing and some others mobiles.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dont think Im best to give you a good 1/10 rating, this is the only re-house Ive done, it wasn't to bad I suppose though. I think if you have some experience with the process then you shouldn't have to much trouble
ioo7 said:
Great job, will keep this in mind, white looks so good, version didn't have that option
Sent from my little GIZMO ``\[©_o],,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree, Verizon should've offered the option, but their to busy releasing phones that they dont plan to update...
evo_racer said:
I have the black one Xperia Play but i bought me the White Cover by amazon for 34,99€ (Complete and Original) But i dont think that i can do this without brick my phone ((
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you want to add me on gtalk I can help you if you decide to go through with it, I dont think you will brick it though
0mega007 said:
Is there a screw begind the stikers, holdding the l and r buttons hardware?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The sticker is covering up the actual buttons on the phones mother board that are L1 and R1 triggers. The L and R triggers are connected with metal rod, wound up with a small spring.
Nhialor said:
us there only black / white available?
Sent from my cm_tenderloin using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ive seen orange XPlays but I didnt see any housing's in other colors then white and black, but I only did a search for White specifically though.
216Monster said:
The sticker is covering up the actual buttons on the phones mother board that are L1 and R1 triggers. The L and R triggers are connected with metal rod, wound up with a small spring.
But if this stickers are removed, would the buttons fall off or stop working?
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veeery nice man
i've changed my digitizer 2 times , on first time , i've broke my digitizer and on second time i succeed
Hey! I just replaced a broken screen and it went quite well, aside from the fact that my mic is not really working as it should anymore (it sounds like I am really far away whenever I speak). After the reassembly, I noticed one plastic piece which for the life of me I cannot find a suitable place for. Does anyone know where it is supposed to go?
I've never had that piece loose after replacing my screen (I've gone through 4!!).
The microphone problem seems to be a common problem with screen replacements (judging by xda, other forums and product reviews). I don't know a fix for that, but wanted to let you know it seems to be everyone
Sent from my MB526 using xda premium
Haha ok, no I haven't been able to spot it n any how-to video or anything so I am completely stumped. Does anyone know if the mic problem is fixable? Been googling a bit without result.
Edit: " end of my woes.
I had the same thing as adam in the end. its the little orange silicon bit that shields the microphone. it fits into the fornt cover near the microphone hole. I accidentally threw it away with the old cover and then had the problem. I had to buy a complete new casing in the edn but it is working fine now.
Chris"
Found this in another thread, but... Hmmm, I know of the three orange parts and I have taken good care of them. None of those are clowe to the mic though, or perhaps I am mixing up the mic with somethng else? Oh well, there was somethng else about a rubber part behind the display, perhaps I'll just stick my rubber thingie in there. Yup.
rakitin said:
Edit: " end of my woes.
I had the same thing as Adam in the end. its the little orange silicon bit that shields the microphone. it fits into the front cover near the microphone hole. I accidentally threw it away with the old cover and then had the problem. I had to buy a complete new casing in the end but it is working fine now.
Chris"
Found this in another thread, but... Hmmm, I know of the three orange parts and I have taken good care of them. None of those are close to the mic though, or perhaps I am mixing up the mic with something else? Oh well, there was something else about a rubber part behind the display, perhaps I'll just stick my rubber thingie in there. Yup.
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I think I know what Chris was referring to, it's a rectangular red/orange silicone.... thing. I'll edit this with link to a video at the time it appears, when I get to a computer that is.
-Sent from my MB525 on Quarx's 2nd boot CM10 [BL7]
pk92 said:
I think I know what Chris was referring to, it's a rectangular red/orange silicone.... thing. I'll edit this with link to a video at the time it appears, when I get to a computer that is.
-Sent from my MB525 on Quarx's 2nd boot CM10 [BL7]
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Click to collapse
Thank you! I will open it up again tonight and see if I can fix it. Apparently I also managed to cause some problem with the headset since the right earpiece no longer works. Only the left one... Seems like i really shouldnt do these kinds of repair work myself.
Edit: i think I used too much glue a the bottom while fastening the screen and that is why the mic is not working as it should. Just putting it here so others might take t ny consideration if they see this post. Guess the only way to fixit is to buy a new front.
I just wanted to report on a possible fix to touchscreen issues. While this may, or may not, work for you, it is what I did, what I have done on three(3) total devices & it is what has eliminated touch screen issues for myself & two other individuals.
This is a work in progress & I will be adding pictures & more detailed instructions, along with progress updates as I use the device going forward. This modification (though it really isn't a mod) requires no tools & while it does entail some light dis-assembly, it did NOT require breaking any seals that would void the warranty outright. Doing this however, may very well void your warranty, I am not an attorney, I am an engineer & taking things apart is what I have been doing since before I could even crawl nearly forty years ago.
To begin, I will go into my Nexus 7 story, which may allow you to identify similar symptoms.
My Nexus 7 device worked well out of the box, with only occasional multi-touch issues. As time progressed, the issues got worse & at one point a couple of weeks ago, even single touch event started to lag or not register. My Nexus 7 is a batch from July of 2013 & I purchased it in August of 2013, so it was still under warranty. Asus issued me an RMA number, however, I hate broken things, knowing darn well that 99% of the time I can fix them myself far faster than the total time it would take an OEM to get my device back to me. At any rate, after the 4.4 update, my touch issues got even worse. Aside from missing even simple gestures & taps, occasionally the screen would look funny & once it even had a sttatic "snowy" screen that was remedied by a factory reset.
After reading a few complaints from people about screen separation & investigating the device via the ifixit tear down, I decided I would take a look before committing to the RMA process. I gently slid my thumbnail under the bezel & slowly worked it around. Immediately I could feel the clips giving way & I eventually had the back cover off. Once the back cover is off, you will notice that the screen & digitizer ribbon cable runs across the battery, pinned in between the battery tray & the inductive Qi coil on the back cover of the device. I found it is easier to ease all the sides up slightly, then remove the back by gently lifing from the sides & upper portion, with the bottom, where the USB port is, being lifted up last. Once I removed the cover, I disconnected the battery terminal clip. After disconnecting the battery, I then followed the screen ribbon cable to where it is clipped into the screens board contacts with a plastic stay. Immediately upon applying pressure to the cable ribbon stay I felt & heard a faintly audible "click" sound. On closer inspection, I discovered that poor contact was being made by the ribbon cable & furthermore, the flex in the battery tray over time, when coupled with the heat generated at that location (due to the battery & the inductive Qi coil) can slowly loosen the ribbon cable stay & affect the quality of the connection. I used a thin piece of composite material to reinforce the cable ribbon stay & used a piece of vinyl along with a non-conductive adhesive to better secure the cable ribbon & stay. I only used a tiny amount so as not to affect the ability to safely disconnect the ribbon cable without destroying it. I also did not want a bunch of adhesive heating up & spreading to other areas. Before I performed the following step, I decided to test out a few thoughts. What I discovered is detailed in the next paragraph. So, after letting the adhesive dry overnight, I reattached the battery terminal clip & started the device. It has worked flawlessly since, without any touch issues.
While I had the back cover off, I carefully reattached the battery terminal clip & while wearing Nitrile gloves & standing on a wood floor to minimize the risk of static discharge, I would turn the device on with the display ribbon cable in various states of connection. They ranged from being angled so that the far contacts would make little or limited connection, to a full connection with varying degrees of pressure applied, to simulate a good or bad connection. Sometimes the device would not boot. Other times it would boot & have a static or "snowy" screen. Sometimes it affected all touch, from single finger events to multi-touch. It also surprisingly affected the system response. Things would freeze up & apps would FC or ANR. Again, once I improved the connection, everything was back to normal & functioning perfectly. In fact, it is functioning better than it did out of the box.
While I am sure Asus would argue that this voids the warranty, I did not break any seals. No tools were needed, just the materials I chose to use & had lying around. As I also mentioned in the opening, I did this on another household members device, that only had multi-touch issues, not all the issues I had, & their device has now been functioning wonderfully for the last several days. The display ribbon clip in their device was not completely detached on one side like mine, but it was fairly loose all the same. The third device was a friends & it was having mostly single touch issues, though he said multi-touch issues would come & go. We ran through the steps on Hangouts & his ribbon cable was in its place, but as he removed the back, the stay clip fell out. His device is also functioning normally now & he has not reported any further touch screen issues.
Since the problems people are having are oftentimes different & not consistent, it very well could be that this is exactly the issue. I would surmise that it could be the very reason why Google & Asus have been VERY, VERY quiet about the issue, since it would require returning the device for a fix, not simply a software fix.
If you try this, I urge you to be patient & use the utmost care when removing the back. While there are no cable attached to the back, you never want to force things. Be gentle & when you find the right spot for lifting, you will know it. It is not difficult & it is relatively harmless. I would caution you to use gloves & minimize the risk of discharging static electricity. I also recommend using gloves because copper sheeting is used in a couple spots & if you have ever worked with copper sheeting in electronics, you know that stuff grabs oils from your skin like crazy & you will end up leaving evidence in the form of an ultra-clear fingerprint that almost no solvent will remove. (Don't use solvents in your device unless you are a daredevil or know what you are doing).
So, that is my story & what worked for me & my small group. Ultimately, these devices are ours & it is up to each of us individually to pursue the fixes or mods that suit us best. That also means that the responsibility & consequences belong to each of us as individuals. What steps you are willing take to remedy any issues you may have with your device are decisions you need to weigh. This is XDA, where people take risks, assume that the are eventually going to brick their devices & make real modifications to devices (which this really is not). If you break something because you needed every single little detail & step spelled out for you, that's not my problem. Again, this is XDA, not some ragtime blog & anything you do here usually requires you to be able to think for yourself at some point.
Lastly, I will try to get to a step by step with pictures as soon as I can. I am not a developer, I am not a student & I don't have a ton of time to devote to answering questions. I will do what I can, when I can, but between the holidays & my job as a mechanical engineer (two large hospital projects are going on right now that take up 95% of my day), I have very little time right now. This post is the result of a large lunch review meeting, not free time, so it will probably take some time to get everything up. I have to recreate most of it, since I really figured on RMA'ing my device. I never expected this to work as it has for me.
Thanks.
Thanks for the post! If I know the issue I don't mind taking it apart to fix it.
I RMA'd it once as I didn't feel I should have to fix it, but it was such a pain jumping through all the hoops only to get it back with docs stating "OS reset" and finding the problem 30secs after resetting up my account.
I have another RMA but have waited shipping it for an update to KitKat in the hopes that it would help. It hasn't. I'll have to see if I feel up to trying your fix.
Thanks!
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
No one else tried this?
I barely have screen issues, but I am curious to know if this works, after replacing my N7 2013.
Thanks and regards,
Video tuto
Need a video tutorial. I have both touch and multi reboot issue. sometimes there are 2-4 reboots occur during rebooting of system. problems persist even after kitkat update. I think this is the cause that causing me such multireboot issue.
Hope this will solve my problem. i am out of USA country so i cant give for a RMA. But need a solution look like that.
Thanks gsleon3. It always sounded like a hardware bad connection type of issue so I'm not surprised.
The problem with rma is that I'm not sure their repair techs would really fix anything. The cause may not have been made known even to their own techs because it would leak out and might start a class action law suit. My 2012 nexus 7 never had any of the touch issues my 2013 version is showing. Quality control has slipped with the 2013 version.
Any lawyers here?
Video might be tough, but I'll try to get to it. I will try to dedicate some time this weekend. I was thinking Saturday night, but I just learned that the Day of the Doctor is being simulcast in 3D near my house. So it may have to wait till Sunday so I can let my inner geek out.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using XDA Premium HD app
GSLEON3 said:
Video might be tough, but I'll try to get to it. I will try to dedicate some time this weekend. I was thinking Saturday night, but I just learned that the Day of the Doctor is being simulcast in 3D near my house. So it may have to wait till Sunday so I can let my inner geek out.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using XDA Premium HD app
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Click to collapse
After what you shared with us, please DO enjoy your 3D simulcast of THE Doctor. We will be patienly waiting for your video.
Regards!!
nearly an inch long strip at the top of my screen stopped responding to touch i sent it back only had it for 6 days..
Tried this out. My clips were seated properly but I can see the reasons why they pop out.
Took about 5 mins from start to finish to test. Good job.
OP, during your disassembly of the device did you notice any random internal parts that could possibly be applying pressure to the screen from behind it? I ask because my otherwise perfect nexus 7 got a random blue dot in the middle of the screen and I know from past experience that that's typically the result of pressure physically warping the lcd panel.. otherwise the only other thing I can think of is that the lcd is being permanently damaged by the on/off case magnet but that's unlikely. or maybe heat that's causing the battery to flex into the screen. It's extra frustrating because I've had the nexus in a loose fitting hard case and the hard front flap should prevent the kind of pressure damage that would cause those blue marks... sigh.
ibebyi said:
OP, during your disassembly of the device did you notice any random internal parts that could possibly be applying pressure to the screen from behind it? I ask because my otherwise perfect nexus 7 got a random blue dot in the middle of the screen and I know from past experience that that's typically the result of pressure physically warping the lcd panel.. otherwise the only other thing I can think of is that the lcd is being permanently damaged by the on/off case magnet but that's unlikely. or maybe heat that's causing the battery to flex into the screen. It's extra frustrating because I've had the nexus in a loose fitting hard case and the hard front flap should prevent the kind of pressure damage that would cause those blue marks... sigh.
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Click to collapse
Well if it is pressure, I've found on past devices, sometimes batteries start expanding over time, like they have a fat belly.
Touchscreen possible fix
Started reading a bit on Google Products Forum and found a guy who said that the touchscreen problem can't be fixed by software.
So he took the back of the tablet off and found that the problem lies on the screen digitizer cable not being clipped to the connection port correctly. He disconnected the cable and connected it back again, and now his touchscreen is working perfectly.
I do not want to try it because I don't want to risk anything, but can anyone brave enough try this?:fingers-crossed:
Here's the guy's profile: http://productforums.google.com/for...ioWy9HdPwsowoDCuOz8SS9uR9nzVnPi6g2kSAInwwCj94 (it's the post form Nov 19)
LittleConfucy said:
Started reading a bit on Google Products Forum and found a guy who said that the touchscreen problem can't be fixed by software.
So he took the back of the tablet off and found that the problem lies on the screen digitizer cable not being clipped to the connection port correctly. He disconnected the cable and connected it back again, and now his touchscreen is working perfectly.
I do not want to try it because I don't want to risk anything, but can anyone brave enough try this?:fingers-crossed:
Here's the guy's profile: http://productforums.google.com/for...ioWy9HdPwsowoDCuOz8SS9uR9nzVnPi6g2kSAInwwCj94 (it's the post form Nov 19)
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The author of that post is the op of this thread.
sfhub said:
The author of that post is the op of this thread.
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Click to collapse
Whoops, sorry, didn't realize:silly:
ibebyi said:
OP, during your disassembly of the device did you notice any random internal parts that could possibly be applying pressure to the screen from behind it? I ask because my otherwise perfect nexus 7 got a random blue dot in the middle of the screen and I know from past experience that that's typically the result of pressure physically warping the lcd panel.. otherwise the only other thing I can think of is that the lcd is being permanently damaged by the on/off case magnet but that's unlikely. or maybe heat that's causing the battery to flex into the screen. It's extra frustrating because I've had the nexus in a loose fitting hard case and the hard front flap should prevent the kind of pressure damage that would cause those blue marks... sigh.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ive disassembled the device too and it has nothing specials with exception that few flex cables located right unddr the cover. Not sure if one of them is belongs to touchscreen though
Also i got this blue dot too,and one pink as well. In middle of screen.
Tim4 said:
Ive disassembled the device too and it has nothing specials with exception that few flex cables located right unddr the cover. Not sure if one of them is belongs to touchscreen though
Also i got this blue dot too,and one pink as well. In middle of screen.
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Click to collapse
I got a blue smear too, but near the edge of the panel but since it's not very visible..I'm just gonna ignore it..
GSLEON3 said:
Video might be tough, but I'll try to get to it. I will try to dedicate some time this weekend. I was thinking Saturday night, but I just learned that the Day of the Doctor is being simulcast in 3D near my house. So it may have to wait till Sunday so I can let my inner geek out.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using XDA Premium HD app
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Click to collapse
Absolutely no problem, GSLEON3, with profound gratitude I assure you that we really appreciate your engineering work discovering the problem. Take your time and we will patiently wait until you have the time to prepare a more complete review.
Wow! If it is so easy, I don't understand what the Asus support makes everyday.
Thanks for sharing it.
Sound really greate and promising. If you could, a tutorial video would be perfect for us, please
sfhub said:
Well if it is pressure, I've found on past devices, sometimes batteries start expanding over time, like they have a fat belly.
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Click to collapse
If higher amperage is used there is an increased risk of expansion due to the higher excitation in the Li atoms. You will increase the wear of it too.
So if possible always use lower amperages to charge batteries(preferably around 500mA), you can limit the charging IC using a lower output charger or your computer's USB port.
Hi all
So I just installed a few games on my Nexus 4 this evening and noticed some areas of the screen not responding. Its isolated to about a 1cm from the left on my screen. When I enable the "show touches" option under developer options I can see the ball jump when I move my finger over the area. Whats odd is that the very edge reports OK and I can swipe to Google Now without issue.
I was using PA with Franco and just as a test revered to stock and it seemed to work however after about 5 mins it went back to the same behaviour. Once again I installed my stock nandroid and now its just jumping like it was. So confused!
I guess some software is running and causing issue or the screen is over sensitive in that area me touching it is causing issue. Its worth noting that I changed the screen a few days ago so it could be the connectors but could it be isolated due to a connection?
bert682 said:
Hi all
So I just installed a few games on my Nexus 4 this evening and noticed some areas of the screen not responding. Its isolated to about a 1cm from the left on my screen. When I enable the "show touches" option under developer options I can see the ball jump when I move my finger over the area. Whats odd is that the very edge reports OK and I can swipe to Google Now without issue.
I was using PA with Franco and just as a test revered to stock and it seemed to work however after about 5 mins it went back to the same behaviour. Once again I installed my stock nandroid and now its just jumping like it was. So confused!
I guess some software is running and causing issue or the screen is over sensitive in that area me touching it is causing issue. Its worth noting that I changed the screen a few days ago so it could be the connectors but could it be isolated due to a connection?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so I was able to use the old screen (cracked) in a frankenstein fashion and it works 100% of the time. The current seen seems to work for a while and then goes back to missing that area.
Will try and return for a replacement.
bert682 said:
Ok so I was able to use the old screen (cracked) in a frankenstein fashion and it works 100% of the time. The current seen seems to work for a while and then goes back to missing that area.
Will try and return for a replacement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Update 3
So the issue has progressed to being intermittent. It will be broken for a few hours, then work OK for a few. This can happen at random,so, not plugged in as I suspect heat was an issue. I can get a text, its broken, pocket the phone and in 5 mins when I get the reply it can be working again.
Ive made a video of what its doing, notice the white dot "jump" when compared to the right.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0i6bdx3f4lWd3VmTWZXM0tjMTQ/edit?usp=sharing
Any suggestions?
You need a different screen if you want to fix it.
bert682 said:
Update 3
So the issue has progressed to being intermittent. It will be broken for a few hours, then work OK for a few. This can happen at random,so, not plugged in as I suspect heat was an issue. I can get a text, its broken, pocket the phone and in 5 mins when I get the reply it can be working again.
Ive made a video of what its doing, notice the white dot "jump" when compared to the right.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0i6bdx3f4lWd3VmTWZXM0tjMTQ/edit?usp=sharing
Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check that the flex cable isn't damaged, dirty or loose before you bother with a replacement. Either way, you probably need a replacement screen
lopezk38 said:
Check that the flex cable isn't damaged, dirty or loose before you bother with a replacement. Either way, you probably need a replacement screen
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Yea I took it all apart and while the new one was connected I was able to connect the old one, upside down etc. It worked OK. Did a bit of a blow and properly pressing down on the connectors.
I could accept the screen is at fault at return it but when the issue is not 100% of the time I know my luck will be that when it gets tested at the sellers end it will work, get sent back to me and be broken again.
Have some monitoring apps running now so I can tell of its heat. Since this side is away from the battery im less incluined to think its heat from that. The motherboard does run down that side so it could be something in that? Ever seen any reports of that getting too hot?
Could even be heat from the antenna cable somehow?
Strange that it spans the whole length though.
Ill risk the return I think, got a video of it being broken so will see what happens.
Run over to Radio Shack (or whatever the equivalent is in what ever country you're in - I don't know where you are) and find a product called Deoxit/Progold. Deoxit cleans the contacts from oxidation, Progold enhances conductivity. Or find something similar.
This stuff is great for blasting inside headphone jacks to get rid of the "scratching" when your plug gets moved around, to fix iffy USB connections, etc. A little goes a long way. I don't know if it'll solve your screen issues, but it's worth a try, and if it doesn't work, you can still use it on other things, so it's not a waste of money.
Planterz said:
Run over to Radio Shack (or whatever the equivalent is in what ever country you're in - I don't know where you are) and find a product called Deoxit/Progold. Deoxit cleans the contacts from oxidation, Progold enhances conductivity. Or find something similar.
This stuff is great for blasting inside headphone jacks to get rid of the "scratching" when your plug gets moved around, to fix iffy USB connections, etc. A little goes a long way. I don't know if it'll solve your screen issues, but it's worth a try, and if it doesn't work, you can still use it on other things, so it's not a waste of money.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, that stuff isnt cheap. Lets hope a little does go a long way!
Thanks, have ordered a small bottle, will give it a go.
I noticed that my new screen is genuine LG (at least its stamped all over it) but the one I removed seems to be a 3rd party replacement. Its got some areas that "look cheap" in comparison. Its got a small foil coating over the flex cable where as the one I removed didnt. I assume its to protect and move heat away?
Few forum posts mention the use of 3rd party chargers....I have used a cheap one when I am in work. I have used in on my old HTC Desire HD and my Lumia 520 and never had an issue. Do you think it could have damaged the digitiser?
bert682 said:
Wow, that stuff isnt cheap. Lets hope a little does go a long way!
Thanks, have ordered a small bottle, will give it a go.
I noticed that my new screen is genuine LG (at least its stamped all over it) but the one I removed seems to be a 3rd party replacement. Its got some areas that "look cheap" in comparison. Its got a small foil coating over the flex cable where as the one I removed didnt. I assume its to protect and move heat away?
Few forum posts mention the use of 3rd party chargers....I have used a cheap one when I am in work. I have used in on my old HTC Desire HD and my Lumia 520 and never had an issue. Do you think it could have damaged the digitiser?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interestingly enough , the original digitizer is wrapped with aluminum tape. Some knockoffs have a better cover in fact. They use a hard aluminum sheet instead of aluminum tape. Some knockoffs don't have that shielding which is bad because that tape is there to keep the IC from getting spammed with useless data by radio frequencies and such.
If you haven't dropped your device , i don'T think it is likely that there is a problem with the glass. It's most likely the IC.
You could transfer your old flex to your new glass which is easy but you need some seriously steady hands.
When you remove the glass from the frame , you will see the flex cable's contact zone. It's basically the part where it connects to the glass. If you heat that area up with a heat gun it's gonna come right off when the solder beneath melts. Take out the new one and the old one. You need a flathead tip for your solering iron , which is like a flathead screwdriver. Simply take some solder and spread that solder around the contact dots , don't worry it won't stick to the plastic but it will melt if you keep it at the same spot too much. When you're done spreading , there are two dots with which you can align your old flex cable to your new glass. Use some adhesive tape around the alignment dots and Align the dots with your flex cable (you'll know which dots when you see it because it's orange and kinda stands out) press it so the adhesive holds and then use your heat gun and melt the solder to the contact zone.
It's actually easier than it sounds.