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USB connection physically dead; not charging or usb to pc connection

Hi everyone!! i'm desperate since i think i came with an expensive, unusable phone in my hands.
I read and searched thorough but there doesn't seem to be much clue on this, just one or two lost threads....
Someone care to drop a hint to help me ? ive lost all hopes.....
My x10a, after using it for , say, 1 month, rooted with latest xx23 firm (and used for a week or more , perfectly fine) ... some days ago, it stopped recognising USB port.
IT does not charge, with no existent charger or usb cord; it does not recognise usb connection of any kind, to any computer possible.
It lasted till last battery charge died, and no way to resucitate.
Afterwards, i came up with something: i bought a crappy, chinese battery-charger, drop my X10 battery overnight, and the phone then booted and worked fine.
So it is the USB connector/port/circuit. I even though of reflashing or re-rooting, but you can figure out that i can't do that anymore (no usb :S).
I can't give it back to SE or seller since it was brought overseas, and it even has some little marks on the corners (they'll just claim i dropped and so).
Any caritative soul please?
I opened following McKebapp guides, but didnt find nothing in particular.
Do you think i should risk in getting hands dirty and, say, re-solder an usb jack?
If not, i offer in sell all spare parts, almost new, or even sell it at a very good price, e.g. for bootloader experimenting....
Thanks !

Are you sure there is no gunk in the port or the cable's contact itself? Or even a bad cable?
Try this.
(1) Buy yourself a can of contact/electronics cleaner spray.
(2) Remove battery from phone to ensure you have no power going through there.
(3) Spray area clean and wait for it to dry.
Afterwards put battery back in, power up and plug in. See if that works

Yes, i tried all these... but nothing... Of course, i tried using up to 10 different usb cables, even bought new ones... but the strange thing is that nothing really happened, in order to mess or 'break' something on the phone...it was from one day to another... strange....

I wonder if the port is soldered to place on the board or is just spring contact based. I believe Bin4ry had his phone disassembled - you can ask him. If it is spring loaded contacts - there might be dirt underneath that needs to be cleaned up. If it is soldered - a joint might have broken and need resoldering.

mtechfan said:
Are you sure there is no gunk in the port or the cable's contact itself? Or even a bad cable?
Try this.
(1) Buy yourself a can of contact/electronics cleaner spray.
(2) Remove battery from phone to ensure you have no power going through there.
(3) Spray area clean and wait for it to dry.
Afterwards put battery back in, power up and plug in. See if that works
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OMG... NEVER do that to a PCB with BGAs...
You'll shorten the connectors underneath the BGA soldered chips by fluid that stays there thanks to capillary action.
@rodrigofd:
Here you can see the USB connector itself, on the very left side:
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IF there is any mechanical failure, one or more of the five solder points in the middle of the connector is loosened.
But I can't believe it's a mechanical / solder problem.
Wiggle the USB charger cable a little, while having it plugged.
That way, you'll determine if there is any hairline crack.
If there is any, you can think of resolder it..
If you ask me, I'd say, some SMD fuse has blown up or there is an hairline crack between the PCB layers.
To determine that, you'll need a 3rd level schematics and some electric circuit reading knowledge.
If nothing helps:
Wait till there is a OTA Update that unroots the phone.
Then bring it to service..

The same thing happened to mine. While it was charging on my desk, and I was asleep.
I woke to find the phone on the floor but the USB cable was attached.
Using JuicePlotter (which had been running) it seemed that the phone had stopped charging around the time I had missed a call.
My detective skills allowed me to deduce that the phone was fine, but then when it rang - and started to vibrate - it rumbled its way off my desk. I believe it was not hitting the floor that damaged it - it's carpeted and not much of a drop - but the shock to the USB cable port as it swung itself off mydesk, effectively "hanging" itself.
I'm afraid I had no luck fixing it but it was only a week old so O2 replaced it immediately.
These days I ensure the phone is FIRMLY wedged somewhere when charging it.

{MOD}{Guide}Added an HDMI switch to the speaker dock

This mod is designed to add the ability to enable/disable the HDMI output on the speaker dock. The reason i thought of this was because the xoom acts as though it is connected to the TV even when the tv is off, therefore routing audio to the tv and not the speakers​
I apologize in advance for the picture quality as i only have my Thunderbolt to take pictures with. it still did a great job on most macro shots but my lighting wasn't the best.
This mod is not terrible complicated to those who has some experience soldering and wiring.
What you will need:
an exacto knife
soldering gun
fine solder
Torx head bits
about 1.5 feet of fine wire
Step 1.
First we need to take the dock apart. start off peeling the rubber mat off the bottom of the dock. The easiest way to do this is to use a hair dryer and heat the rubber up and peal it off. Set the rubber aside so it the sticky tape doesn't get messed up , you will want to put it back on at the end.
Now that you have the rubber mat off you have access tot he screws that hold the dock together. remove all of these with your torx bit.
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Step 2.
after removing the screws, pull the unit apart. Now you have access to the inside.
You will need to remove the HDMI cable, this is pretty easy so i wont go into detail. here it is removed
Step 3.
Ok next we need to tap into the "Hot Plug Detect" wire in the HDMI cable
Type A receptacle HDMI
Pin 1 TMDS Data2+
Pin 2 TMDS Data2 Shield
Pin 3 TMDS Data2–
Pin 4 TMDS Data1+
Pin 5 TMDS Data1 Shield
Pin 6 TMDS Data1–
Pin 7 TMDS Data0+
Pin 8 TMDS Data0 Shield
Pin 9 TMDS Data0–
Pin 10 TMDS Clock+
Pin 11 TMDS Clock Shield
Pin 12 TMDS Clock–
Pin 13 CEC
Pin 14 Reserved (HDMI 1.0-1.3c), HEC Data- (Optional, HDMI 1.4+ with Ethernet)
Pin 15 SCL (I²C Serial Clock for DDC)
Pin 16 SDA (I²C Serial Data Line for DDC)
Pin 17 DDC/CEC/HEC Ground
Pin 18 +5 V Power (max 50 mA)
Pin 19 Hot Plug Detect (All versions) and HEC Data+ (Optional, HDMI 1.4+ with Ethernet)
Number 19 is the one we are looking for. I did the hard work and located that wire on the cable It is the White Wire.
Strip back the casing very carefully. once you stripped the black wire casing off you will need to cut through the metal mesh shield surrounding the inside wires. i used the exacto knife to cut through this. after you strip all the shielding back you should easily see the white wire. It is very small so this is where soldering experience comes it handy. cut the wire and VERY carefully strip back a tiny portion of the white casing to expose the wire inside. you'll need to solder one wire to each side as shown below
Step 4.
Set the HDMI cable aside, It's time to mount the switch.
I went to radioshack and bought a 2 pack of switches for $3
As for mounting locations, there was only one spot that i could think to mount it with the tools i had available ( i have no dremmel tool which i'm sure would have made this project easier)
You need to make a hole big enough for your switch. I made my hole with an exacto knife attachment for my solder gun.
Basically i used a hot exacto knife to burn through the back plastic. This is probably one of the toughest parts of this mod.
Next i used Stage 2 epoxy to secure the switch to the plastic . Its a good idea to use something abrasive to scub the plastic so the epoxy can get a good hold on it
Step 5.
Next we need to connect everything together. Reinstall the HDMI cable , and make sure to tape the wires that you soldered to the HDMI detect wire so they are secure and wont come off or touch anything else.
Now you need to connect those wires to your switch. I forgot to get a picture of the wires connected to the switch but all you need to do it solder the wires to any 2 pins that are next to each other
good configs
Pins
1 2 3
Pins
1 2 3
Bad configs
1 2 3
It really doesn't matter which wire goes on which side because all we are basically doing is completing a connection of those 2 wires.
Now in order to route those wires to the switch and gett he while thing to close i had to cut a channel for the wires to sit in
Now tape the wires going to the switch into the channel and put everything back together. Now plug in an HDMI cable and dock your xoom and try it out
Here is how mine came out. All in all im very happy with the results. I wish i could have cut a nicer looking hold but i lacked the proper equipment

Way to go!! Thanks for doing the legwork!!

Very cool mod...thanks for sharing

Sweet!
Thanks for sharing!

Thanks guys. My next mod is Gonna be figuring out how to add a USB port to it.

I would think a wiser mod would be to put that switch inline on the cable. A cable costs a few dollars, so it's OK to stuff it up as well as void it's warranty. Putting in a USB is another story, that would be VERY useful, and I am looking fwd to that. Keep up the good work.

Nice job. And although I kinda agree with putting the switch on an HDMI cable to avoid breaking the dock, I also like it integrated.

Great work on this man, I just got one of these docks today and have been thinking a lot about adding USB OTG, and retaining the functionality of the unit itsself. Did you ever end up getting around to doing that mod ?

Legacystar said:
Thanks guys. My next mod is Gonna be figuring out how to add a USB port to it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very interested in this. I was thinking of a 2-4 port hub would make it wonderful for gaming!

About HDMI Switch
The most professional hdmi switch website is www.hdgenius.com , You can have a look !

I what to no what is in side the usb cord and how the Chords inside the USB connect and what is what

DYI OTG USB cable (wow the acronyms) [no soldering required]

So, everyone knows that 3.1 is great for USB hosting things like mice, hard drives, flash drives, etc, etc, etc... And most people know that you can make a OTG cable out of an old data cord and some assorted parts, with soldering. My point in posting this is to show that there is no soldering needed, thus maybe some people who can't/don't want to solder can make an OTG cable. (Use electrical tape)
So, starting with a usb data, split open the micro-usb adapter head with a razor or knife, and keep peeling back the layers until all you have left is the trapezoidal male adapter and five prongs, a red, black, white, green and blank. There is a seam that is bisecting the plug, and it is the easiest way to cut it open. Work off the plastic cover and I would advise you to strip the first few inches of the actual cable aswell, then you can get to work.
You're going to need some kind of female full size usb plug to cannibalize, like of an old device with usb. (I tore one off a very old tower.) hold on to this for later.
Start by cutting the full size usb off the wire, and then cut about six inches of the data cable off and seperate the wires so that you can use one in the next step. Now strip the end of the main wire so that all four wires have about 1cm of exposed wire. take the usb port, and on the back, there will be four leads. the order is red, white, green, black. (When looking at the plug with the larger blank space below the smaller blank space in the plug.)
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Attach the wire that corresponds to each spot. Normally, this would be done with solder, but electrical tape works just as well. Simply use narrow, long strips of electrical tape to secure each wire to the leads, thus isolating each lead and making the system work. Don't be shy about using the tape, the more you use (reasonably), the more secure the system will be. This is a tedious process, but still it is easy enough to do.
Now for the part that tells the Xoom to be in host mode. Choose one wire from the six inches of wire you cut off, and strip both ends of it. strip the middle of the black wire (on your about to be OTG cable) around two inches from the micro usb head, and attach the second wire (that's six or so inches long) to it. Then, find the fifth, unused lead on the micro-usb assembly, and carefully attach the other end of the wire. This will take a bit of effort to orient it correctly, but once secure, again use strips of electrical tape to secure it and isolate it. When attaching the wires, use electrical tape cut into thin, long strips and work carefully to ensure that the wires you are attaching do not short out with any other contacts. This whole process may take a while.
If you can't locate the fifth port, then use the wire you are attaching to black to contact possible leads with a mouse attached, and if you find the right one, it will bring up a cursor.
As a final step, I wrapped mine up in duct table to make it stronger so that it will last and I can pack it along with me.
These are just my two cents I wanted to share, hopefully helping someone.
Final product:

short pin 1 to 5 and you'll damage your usb port. I guarantee the repair will easily exceed the $8 cost of an ebay otg cable.

Just be careful...
Sent from my Xoom using XDA Premium App

That's one sexy cable......hehe

wtf is that... smh

Cool pic....was that 19 dollars worth of duck tape? ...

I wish I had gone this route instead of buying one. Although I definitely would have used a little solder instead of over 9000 rolls of duct tape. I have to say yours looks epic, though.

Looking for low profile microusb connector

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Basically, I'm looking for something like the connector on the left. That's a Powerskin, http://www.power-skin.com/sensation-battery-case.php
I ordered a few different connectors, and they're all about the same as the one pictured on the right. Notice it protrudes around twice as much as the Powerskin one.
It would be ideal if the cord could exit the connector pointed up, like in this picture:
Not too picky about that part though.. And when it comes down to it, I'd probably end up having to buy the connector and solder on a "cord" myself.
Basically, I'm looking for something that left on the phone fulltime, and fit within a conventional silicone/tpu/etc case. Specifically, I'm working with the Nexus 4, which has the microusb port on the bottom, turned 180' from what you'd expect. I'm hoping to be solder on a flat ribbon cable that could wrap around to the back of the phone where it'd be connected to say a battery or microsd adapter.
Thanks

Same
Looking for the same fix

RE: Looking for micro-usb connector
I have a couple ideas that might help.
First Idea --
If I understand what you want correctly, then perhaps the full-size USB to micro-USB cable from Verizon would be a possibility.
I picked up mine at a plain-jane Verizon store. It was around $20, if I remember right. I use it all the time.
I've run into cables that resemble micro-usb, but are much thicker, and don't fit the very tight space in the Droid4 I have.
For a right angle turn, you may need to disassemble the two plastic shells that encase the wire and connector, and turn them 90 degrees. You'll want a good Exacto-knife, probably a vise to clamp it, and *patience*. It's possible that its plastic shells are glued together, in which case I would try alcohol, then acetone, as solvents. Go real easy with the acetone, you don't want the connector's internal plastic to melt!
Let me know if you'd like a picture of my cable to see if it's what you need.
Second idea:
You may be able to pick up something like this over at Radio Shack; they have a surprising amount of power supplies for a whole lot of things. You'll have to strip it down to get to the inner pins, depending on how it's wired. Also try their website; they have a bunch of stuff there which any dealer can order in.
I hope this helps,
Dave

Hi,
I'm bumping this thread because I'm also looking for the same very low profile micro usb connector. All the standard connectors apply too much stress on the plug.
The best I could find are these:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/go...its-perfectly-nexus-7-32gb-2.html#post2720135
available here:
http://www.amazon.com/Paulm-Micro-U...614&sr=1-1&keywords=Micro+USB+Specialty+Cable
But It's still bigger than the the powerskin angled one.
Redge

I have been looking for the same thing. I need a micro usb with low profile so that I could use it in my tablet while its in my keyboard case.
I did found myself an OTG angled adapter that was the best option I could find at the time, but I think it still builds almost 15mm outside the bottom of the tablet. The Bobjgear looks a bit better, but I still think it should be possible to make them much smaller..
Edit: I just ordered this one from ebay. Not as low profile as I could wish, but better than the one I have now.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261206091237

Years later, it looks like there's finally something on the market that can be used. See this thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/zen...ion-thread-t3113608/post61193339#post61193339
Stolen picture:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HI8JYFE
Unfortunately, some of the pictures show it only having the power leads (would be enough for 500ma usb charging but not good enough for use as an actual usb cable).
One of the pictures does show it having all the pins though.
There are higher ma versions which would suggest that it might have the data leads (or it's just shorted directly in the plug itself which would again be useless)

It's 4 months too late probably. For anyone else looking for a solution simply search AliExpress.com for "micro usb right angle plug", stick with free shipping/+95% Approval stores and you'll be fine.

ziddey said:
Years later, it looks like there's finally something on the market that can be used. See this thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/zen...ion-thread-t3113608/post61193339#post61193339
Stolen picture:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HI8JYFE
Unfortunately, some of the pictures show it only having the power leads (would be enough for 500ma usb charging but not good enough for use as an actual usb cable).
One of the pictures does show it having all the pins though.
There are higher ma versions which would suggest that it might have the data leads (or it's just shorted directly in the plug itself which would again be useless)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm still looking for cable like this that is USB A to micro USB B, having a hell of a time finding one...

Also looking for a charging cable like the picture above ..
I guess only thing to do is order one of those QI coils and cut off the connector part ...

I found them, took me forever, but I ordered a bunch of these online from a company in the US, got them 2 days later in the mail...
I would post the link, but it wont let me until i have 10 posts. The website name is simply "newark" (com domain). Search "USB3150-30-075-A" micro usb plug male, and you willl find them.
Enjoy.

Also looking for a charging cable like the picture above

Ductit said:
I found them, took me forever, but I ordered a bunch of these online from a company in the US, got them 2 days later in the mail...
I would post the link, but it wont let me until i have 10 posts. The website name is simply "newark" (com domain). Search "USB3150-30-075-A" micro usb plug male, and you willl find them.
Enjoy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thats just the connector, you would have to solder the cable.

Also in need of this! Just like they have for the iPhone:
To hide the cable.

Hey guys,
I'm also looking for low profile microUSB power cables for years now... Best source I found so far is this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/32788021258.html (First attachment, top connector)
However, you must be aware that there are different styles of connectors out there. Most of these Qi charger receiver plugs only break out Vcc and GND. So they are only suitable for charging, not for OTG devices.
Some of these have the D+/D- lines floating, which means that USB compliant devices won't charge with more than 500mA. Some better ones have D+/D- lines shorted, which allows higher charging current.
The first attached picture shows two connectors I got so far. They were supplied with the identical Qi receiver, just the sellers and buying time were different. The top connector is the better one, it has D+/D- pins shorted and has a more durable (but glued) connection to the ribbon cable.
The bottom one has D+/D- pins floating (limits charging to 500mA) and has a crimped on metallic back. This can be removed and the connector can be desoldered from the ribbon cable. The connector itsself creaks out all 5 pins and may be soldered to a different PCB/ribbon cable. I don't have a specific seller for this one, I bought it about a year ago...
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/32631944019.html
Just looking at the pictures, this one may only have Vcc and GND pins physically be present in the connector.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/32782164868.html
Also just referring to the picture, this one might break out also D+/D- pins (also 2nd attachment). It still might not be suitable for OTG operation because it doesn't break out the ID pin, which would have to be connected to GND for OTG operation.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/32789350754.html
USB-C Version.
The USB3150-30-075-A is not bad either, but it requires you to do your own ribbon cable / pcb to use it...

https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Micr...gree-Vertical-5-Pin-for-PCB/32806992515.html?

Macro photo of the Amazon Fire 2015 motherboard

As it's easy to open without damage and I didn't found proper ones yet, here are my photos of the board (minus the two QR-Code Serial numbers)
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I just added wireless charging, by connecting the following item to the GND and VCHG spots on the mainboard.
It's very thin, and there's enough space inside so that when you close the back there's nothing apparently unusual.

That require soldering?

Yes, the gnd is easy, the vchg needs a steady hand but no specialized equipment.

I wonder if it´s possible to extend the wifi-antenna,
is there anythink like that attached that could be optimized?

I think so, yes, see the BT & Wifi spring connector on the top right of the mainboard, they make contact to pins on the back cover. I think you can easily re-route them to a better antenna. Although I have no idea about the geometry of the actual antenna emebebed into the back cover.

There is a lot of space there. What? A 2980mah battery? Can I replace the mono speaker with another one?

Thanks! Could you also take a picture of the back of the motherboard?

There's indeed a lot of space, and you could replace the speaker easily, the only challenge is finding a better one and I have no experience in that area.
EDIT 1 :
I desoldered the speaker, unhooked the back camera and LCD flat flex to try to flip the mainboard (removing 5 screws), but there's still a flex retaining it. i don't want to force it. but I was able to see the back of the mainboard and apart from the front-facing camera and a few passive components, there's really nothing there.
I took photos of the chip on the top left with the sticky kapton peeled :
It's labeled SSD6250QN4-N527DU
I also took a bicture of the back cover
Notice the NFC tag on the bottom and the BT/Wifi antenna connector on the top.
And the baord with the wireless Qi charger soldered

The SSD6250 is a Capacitive Touch Panel Controller made by Solomon Systech

Qi reciever
Is there any link to buy this Qi reciever?
I took a little research on Amazon but i couldn't find it.

The link is provided a few posts before yours (click on the picture), I bought it from DealExtreme in China (crazy low price, so-so quality and death-slow logistics).

Buy it from anywhere except DealExtreme. They use to be a good store years ago but not anymore. Items you purchase from them may take literally months to even ship. These Qi receivers are available from many places. Try ebay, fasttech, banggood.

does that wireless charging mod still have overcharge protection?

Yes, as it goes directly to the USB connector. It benefits from the same protection as a charge by USB.

Thanks for the photos! Can you get a closer shot of the areas soldered for the qi wireless pad connections?

Sure :
GND can be soldered to almost any golden pad. The photo shows the black wire soldered to the pad, adn the red wire (underneath) shrink-wraped to my purple extension lead that goes to VCHG
The pads are small but not too small (about 1mm) the bodged soldering job comes from the fact that I Soldered/desoldered multple times to make those photos. You can see that we also have access to what seems to be the differient data pair of the USB connector.

How much does the Qi receiver seem to press against the back cover? Was there any actual extra space between the back cover and the battery before adding the Qi receiver? I don't have a fire7 yet so I don't know if there is any give when pressing on the back cover (on a stock fire7) indicating space between cover and battery.
Wondering if it would be worth it to separate the Qi receiver electronics from the coil. Place the coil on the battery & the electronics in the empty space below the battery. They sell a Qi receiver coil (no electronics) for the LG G3 which has flat leads. Ebay link
(the outer coil is nfc)

There's no real empty space, but the Qi receiver I use is really thin (1mm at most). If I didn't knew, I wouldn't notice the small bulge that you can feel when everything is closed. The coil is definitely the thicker part of the Qi receiver on mine, so there would be no benefit for me to separate it. But again everything works happily in it's current form. This receiver is designed to be tightly sandwiched after all. Your LG G3 coil seems especially thin, but as you said it's incomplete, and I don't know about thin Qi managment only board (but in this day an age, I won't doubt you can found one). The other thing to consider is the output power it's able to give. Mine is rated 5Vx1A (although that's a chinese rating, I won't bet my life on it) and it is enough to recharge the Fire (it's detected as charging, it does charge, but I never compared it to a wired charger).

Since there is dead space below the battery in the fire7 I'd just use the receiver electronics from any standard receiver, switching the included coil for the thin LG G3 coil. Place the electronics below the battery and connect to the thin LG G3 coil which could be placed on top of the battery. The efficiency of the thin coil is unknown tho.
Total cost would be ~ $4. A standard Qi receiver is $2 - 3 on ebay & the thin LG G3 coil is $2.