So, everyone knows that 3.1 is great for USB hosting things like mice, hard drives, flash drives, etc, etc, etc... And most people know that you can make a OTG cable out of an old data cord and some assorted parts, with soldering. My point in posting this is to show that there is no soldering needed, thus maybe some people who can't/don't want to solder can make an OTG cable. (Use electrical tape)
So, starting with a usb data, split open the micro-usb adapter head with a razor or knife, and keep peeling back the layers until all you have left is the trapezoidal male adapter and five prongs, a red, black, white, green and blank. There is a seam that is bisecting the plug, and it is the easiest way to cut it open. Work off the plastic cover and I would advise you to strip the first few inches of the actual cable aswell, then you can get to work.
You're going to need some kind of female full size usb plug to cannibalize, like of an old device with usb. (I tore one off a very old tower.) hold on to this for later.
Start by cutting the full size usb off the wire, and then cut about six inches of the data cable off and seperate the wires so that you can use one in the next step. Now strip the end of the main wire so that all four wires have about 1cm of exposed wire. take the usb port, and on the back, there will be four leads. the order is red, white, green, black. (When looking at the plug with the larger blank space below the smaller blank space in the plug.)
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Attach the wire that corresponds to each spot. Normally, this would be done with solder, but electrical tape works just as well. Simply use narrow, long strips of electrical tape to secure each wire to the leads, thus isolating each lead and making the system work. Don't be shy about using the tape, the more you use (reasonably), the more secure the system will be. This is a tedious process, but still it is easy enough to do.
Now for the part that tells the Xoom to be in host mode. Choose one wire from the six inches of wire you cut off, and strip both ends of it. strip the middle of the black wire (on your about to be OTG cable) around two inches from the micro usb head, and attach the second wire (that's six or so inches long) to it. Then, find the fifth, unused lead on the micro-usb assembly, and carefully attach the other end of the wire. This will take a bit of effort to orient it correctly, but once secure, again use strips of electrical tape to secure it and isolate it. When attaching the wires, use electrical tape cut into thin, long strips and work carefully to ensure that the wires you are attaching do not short out with any other contacts. This whole process may take a while.
If you can't locate the fifth port, then use the wire you are attaching to black to contact possible leads with a mouse attached, and if you find the right one, it will bring up a cursor.
As a final step, I wrapped mine up in duct table to make it stronger so that it will last and I can pack it along with me.
These are just my two cents I wanted to share, hopefully helping someone.
Final product:
short pin 1 to 5 and you'll damage your usb port. I guarantee the repair will easily exceed the $8 cost of an ebay otg cable.
Just be careful...
Sent from my Xoom using XDA Premium App
That's one sexy cable......hehe
wtf is that... smh
Cool pic....was that 19 dollars worth of duck tape? ...
I wish I had gone this route instead of buying one. Although I definitely would have used a little solder instead of over 9000 rolls of duct tape. I have to say yours looks epic, though.
Related
It is a fact that charging the HD2 with a wall adapter goes a lot faster (1000 mA) than a USB port (500 mA). They make it possible for the device to detect if you are charging through a USB port or a wall adapter by shorting the two middle pins (D+ and D-) on a wall adapter. More information about charging differences between USB ports and wall adapters can be found here: http://www.attdroids.com/forum/motorola-backflip-development-hacking/683-motorola-fast-charge-usb-hack.html
Now under Windows Mobile, HTC built in the software that when you use the CU-S400, the HD2 WILL pull 1000 mA from the power source, not respecting the USB power standards. The issue is that Android DOES respect the USB power standards and detects the CU-S400 as an USB port and thus only pulls 500 mA through the car kit, because the D+ and D- wires are not shorted in the device. Even worse, they aren't even passed from the USB cable, so if you think using a hacked USB cable will solve this issue, you are wrong.
Because I didn't found a software solution for this issue and because charging at 500 mA is useless (with GPS on, the HD2 consumes more than 500 mA), I started hacking my CU-S400 . Now for all of you CU-S400 owners that are running Android, I think you might find these guidelines to hack it very useful
1. Click open the micro USB connector on the CU-S400 on the side by using a small, flat and thin screwdriver. Click open on both sides. It gives some resistance but don't worry, it will click.
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2. Lift out the connector through the clicked open box. Do this with the little mainboard first, trying to get the connector out first will not work. This step can require some tinkering, but don't worry, take your time and it will come out.
3. Now we have to short the D+ and D- wires of the USB port. As you can see on the main board, they are even not passed from the USB cable, which makes hacking the device a bit easier. Connect the two pins as shown on the picture with a cupper wire. I didn't soldered them on the mainboard with some tin on purpose, because I didn't wanted a permanent solution (very unlikely, but you never know I want to go back to Windows Mobile . If you want a permanent solution and aren't afraid of soldering and taking risks, I would advise to solder the cupper wire.
4. Test your hack! Before putting it all together again, connect your HD2 to the main board and put a USB cable in your wall adapter to make sure the bridge is made. From now on, don't ever connect your car kit to a PC USB port! It might work perfectly, but you risk to frie your PC or USB port if it isn't designed to provide the required 1000 mA!
5. Re-asseble your CU-S400 the reverse way you pulled it apart.
PS: just for the record, I can not be held responsible for any damage to your HD2 or car kit because of using these guidelines.
Great!
I just did it myself today not knowing someone had made a guide in here ..
But i strongly recommend to disassemble it the right way by pulling the transparent off by hitting it from the top and down, then it should pop right off, so you can unscrew the three small torx screws underneath it..
The CU S400 mod is a must for HD2 users, running Android and gps in the car
Hello,
Does it put your HD2 Android into car mode automatically.
Thanks for your replay.
Thanks!
This mod is designed to add the ability to enable/disable the HDMI output on the speaker dock. The reason i thought of this was because the xoom acts as though it is connected to the TV even when the tv is off, therefore routing audio to the tv and not the speakers
I apologize in advance for the picture quality as i only have my Thunderbolt to take pictures with. it still did a great job on most macro shots but my lighting wasn't the best.
This mod is not terrible complicated to those who has some experience soldering and wiring.
What you will need:
an exacto knife
soldering gun
fine solder
Torx head bits
about 1.5 feet of fine wire
Step 1.
First we need to take the dock apart. start off peeling the rubber mat off the bottom of the dock. The easiest way to do this is to use a hair dryer and heat the rubber up and peal it off. Set the rubber aside so it the sticky tape doesn't get messed up , you will want to put it back on at the end.
Now that you have the rubber mat off you have access tot he screws that hold the dock together. remove all of these with your torx bit.
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Step 2.
after removing the screws, pull the unit apart. Now you have access to the inside.
You will need to remove the HDMI cable, this is pretty easy so i wont go into detail. here it is removed
Step 3.
Ok next we need to tap into the "Hot Plug Detect" wire in the HDMI cable
Type A receptacle HDMI
Pin 1 TMDS Data2+
Pin 2 TMDS Data2 Shield
Pin 3 TMDS Data2–
Pin 4 TMDS Data1+
Pin 5 TMDS Data1 Shield
Pin 6 TMDS Data1–
Pin 7 TMDS Data0+
Pin 8 TMDS Data0 Shield
Pin 9 TMDS Data0–
Pin 10 TMDS Clock+
Pin 11 TMDS Clock Shield
Pin 12 TMDS Clock–
Pin 13 CEC
Pin 14 Reserved (HDMI 1.0-1.3c), HEC Data- (Optional, HDMI 1.4+ with Ethernet)
Pin 15 SCL (I²C Serial Clock for DDC)
Pin 16 SDA (I²C Serial Data Line for DDC)
Pin 17 DDC/CEC/HEC Ground
Pin 18 +5 V Power (max 50 mA)
Pin 19 Hot Plug Detect (All versions) and HEC Data+ (Optional, HDMI 1.4+ with Ethernet)
Number 19 is the one we are looking for. I did the hard work and located that wire on the cable It is the White Wire.
Strip back the casing very carefully. once you stripped the black wire casing off you will need to cut through the metal mesh shield surrounding the inside wires. i used the exacto knife to cut through this. after you strip all the shielding back you should easily see the white wire. It is very small so this is where soldering experience comes it handy. cut the wire and VERY carefully strip back a tiny portion of the white casing to expose the wire inside. you'll need to solder one wire to each side as shown below
Step 4.
Set the HDMI cable aside, It's time to mount the switch.
I went to radioshack and bought a 2 pack of switches for $3
As for mounting locations, there was only one spot that i could think to mount it with the tools i had available ( i have no dremmel tool which i'm sure would have made this project easier)
You need to make a hole big enough for your switch. I made my hole with an exacto knife attachment for my solder gun.
Basically i used a hot exacto knife to burn through the back plastic. This is probably one of the toughest parts of this mod.
Next i used Stage 2 epoxy to secure the switch to the plastic . Its a good idea to use something abrasive to scub the plastic so the epoxy can get a good hold on it
Step 5.
Next we need to connect everything together. Reinstall the HDMI cable , and make sure to tape the wires that you soldered to the HDMI detect wire so they are secure and wont come off or touch anything else.
Now you need to connect those wires to your switch. I forgot to get a picture of the wires connected to the switch but all you need to do it solder the wires to any 2 pins that are next to each other
good configs
Pins
1 2 3
Pins
1 2 3
Bad configs
1 2 3
It really doesn't matter which wire goes on which side because all we are basically doing is completing a connection of those 2 wires.
Now in order to route those wires to the switch and gett he while thing to close i had to cut a channel for the wires to sit in
Now tape the wires going to the switch into the channel and put everything back together. Now plug in an HDMI cable and dock your xoom and try it out
Here is how mine came out. All in all im very happy with the results. I wish i could have cut a nicer looking hold but i lacked the proper equipment
Way to go!! Thanks for doing the legwork!!
Very cool mod...thanks for sharing
Sweet!
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks guys. My next mod is Gonna be figuring out how to add a USB port to it.
I would think a wiser mod would be to put that switch inline on the cable. A cable costs a few dollars, so it's OK to stuff it up as well as void it's warranty. Putting in a USB is another story, that would be VERY useful, and I am looking fwd to that. Keep up the good work.
Nice job. And although I kinda agree with putting the switch on an HDMI cable to avoid breaking the dock, I also like it integrated.
Great work on this man, I just got one of these docks today and have been thinking a lot about adding USB OTG, and retaining the functionality of the unit itsself. Did you ever end up getting around to doing that mod ?
Legacystar said:
Thanks guys. My next mod is Gonna be figuring out how to add a USB port to it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very interested in this. I was thinking of a 2-4 port hub would make it wonderful for gaming!
About HDMI Switch
The most professional hdmi switch website is www.hdgenius.com , You can have a look !
I what to no what is in side the usb cord and how the Chords inside the USB connect and what is what
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Basically, I'm looking for something like the connector on the left. That's a Powerskin, http://www.power-skin.com/sensation-battery-case.php
I ordered a few different connectors, and they're all about the same as the one pictured on the right. Notice it protrudes around twice as much as the Powerskin one.
It would be ideal if the cord could exit the connector pointed up, like in this picture:
Not too picky about that part though.. And when it comes down to it, I'd probably end up having to buy the connector and solder on a "cord" myself.
Basically, I'm looking for something that left on the phone fulltime, and fit within a conventional silicone/tpu/etc case. Specifically, I'm working with the Nexus 4, which has the microusb port on the bottom, turned 180' from what you'd expect. I'm hoping to be solder on a flat ribbon cable that could wrap around to the back of the phone where it'd be connected to say a battery or microsd adapter.
Thanks
Same
Looking for the same fix
RE: Looking for micro-usb connector
I have a couple ideas that might help.
First Idea --
If I understand what you want correctly, then perhaps the full-size USB to micro-USB cable from Verizon would be a possibility.
I picked up mine at a plain-jane Verizon store. It was around $20, if I remember right. I use it all the time.
I've run into cables that resemble micro-usb, but are much thicker, and don't fit the very tight space in the Droid4 I have.
For a right angle turn, you may need to disassemble the two plastic shells that encase the wire and connector, and turn them 90 degrees. You'll want a good Exacto-knife, probably a vise to clamp it, and *patience*. It's possible that its plastic shells are glued together, in which case I would try alcohol, then acetone, as solvents. Go real easy with the acetone, you don't want the connector's internal plastic to melt!
Let me know if you'd like a picture of my cable to see if it's what you need.
Second idea:
You may be able to pick up something like this over at Radio Shack; they have a surprising amount of power supplies for a whole lot of things. You'll have to strip it down to get to the inner pins, depending on how it's wired. Also try their website; they have a bunch of stuff there which any dealer can order in.
I hope this helps,
Dave
Hi,
I'm bumping this thread because I'm also looking for the same very low profile micro usb connector. All the standard connectors apply too much stress on the plug.
The best I could find are these:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/go...its-perfectly-nexus-7-32gb-2.html#post2720135
available here:
http://www.amazon.com/Paulm-Micro-U...614&sr=1-1&keywords=Micro+USB+Specialty+Cable
But It's still bigger than the the powerskin angled one.
Redge
I have been looking for the same thing. I need a micro usb with low profile so that I could use it in my tablet while its in my keyboard case.
I did found myself an OTG angled adapter that was the best option I could find at the time, but I think it still builds almost 15mm outside the bottom of the tablet. The Bobjgear looks a bit better, but I still think it should be possible to make them much smaller..
Edit: I just ordered this one from ebay. Not as low profile as I could wish, but better than the one I have now.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261206091237
Years later, it looks like there's finally something on the market that can be used. See this thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/zen...ion-thread-t3113608/post61193339#post61193339
Stolen picture:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HI8JYFE
Unfortunately, some of the pictures show it only having the power leads (would be enough for 500ma usb charging but not good enough for use as an actual usb cable).
One of the pictures does show it having all the pins though.
There are higher ma versions which would suggest that it might have the data leads (or it's just shorted directly in the plug itself which would again be useless)
It's 4 months too late probably. For anyone else looking for a solution simply search AliExpress.com for "micro usb right angle plug", stick with free shipping/+95% Approval stores and you'll be fine.
ziddey said:
Years later, it looks like there's finally something on the market that can be used. See this thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/zen...ion-thread-t3113608/post61193339#post61193339
Stolen picture:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HI8JYFE
Unfortunately, some of the pictures show it only having the power leads (would be enough for 500ma usb charging but not good enough for use as an actual usb cable).
One of the pictures does show it having all the pins though.
There are higher ma versions which would suggest that it might have the data leads (or it's just shorted directly in the plug itself which would again be useless)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm still looking for cable like this that is USB A to micro USB B, having a hell of a time finding one...
Also looking for a charging cable like the picture above ..
I guess only thing to do is order one of those QI coils and cut off the connector part ...
I found them, took me forever, but I ordered a bunch of these online from a company in the US, got them 2 days later in the mail...
I would post the link, but it wont let me until i have 10 posts. The website name is simply "newark" (com domain). Search "USB3150-30-075-A" micro usb plug male, and you willl find them.
Enjoy.
Also looking for a charging cable like the picture above
Ductit said:
I found them, took me forever, but I ordered a bunch of these online from a company in the US, got them 2 days later in the mail...
I would post the link, but it wont let me until i have 10 posts. The website name is simply "newark" (com domain). Search "USB3150-30-075-A" micro usb plug male, and you willl find them.
Enjoy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thats just the connector, you would have to solder the cable.
Also in need of this! Just like they have for the iPhone:
To hide the cable.
Hey guys,
I'm also looking for low profile microUSB power cables for years now... Best source I found so far is this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/32788021258.html (First attachment, top connector)
However, you must be aware that there are different styles of connectors out there. Most of these Qi charger receiver plugs only break out Vcc and GND. So they are only suitable for charging, not for OTG devices.
Some of these have the D+/D- lines floating, which means that USB compliant devices won't charge with more than 500mA. Some better ones have D+/D- lines shorted, which allows higher charging current.
The first attached picture shows two connectors I got so far. They were supplied with the identical Qi receiver, just the sellers and buying time were different. The top connector is the better one, it has D+/D- pins shorted and has a more durable (but glued) connection to the ribbon cable.
The bottom one has D+/D- pins floating (limits charging to 500mA) and has a crimped on metallic back. This can be removed and the connector can be desoldered from the ribbon cable. The connector itsself creaks out all 5 pins and may be soldered to a different PCB/ribbon cable. I don't have a specific seller for this one, I bought it about a year ago...
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/32631944019.html
Just looking at the pictures, this one may only have Vcc and GND pins physically be present in the connector.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/32782164868.html
Also just referring to the picture, this one might break out also D+/D- pins (also 2nd attachment). It still might not be suitable for OTG operation because it doesn't break out the ID pin, which would have to be connected to GND for OTG operation.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/32789350754.html
USB-C Version.
The USB3150-30-075-A is not bad either, but it requires you to do your own ribbon cable / pcb to use it...
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Micr...gree-Vertical-5-Pin-for-PCB/32806992515.html?
I just saw the iFixit teardown
https://youtu.be/VYFbSpvSE-w
I retrofitted a Galaxy S5 and S4 to wireless charging with Qi receivers off of eBay:
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I know there is one for the G4 (since it's in their flip cover), but I was wondering if it is possible to work with an existing coil and wire it up to the Nexus 5X.
First, the cover pops off like a Galaxy S5 cover:
Here is the back cover and internals. Normally, the NFC covers the battery, but I am thinking it might be above the camera since there are connectors from cover to internals and would make sense for Android pay. So, what is the big shield on the right that covers the battery? (see question mark):
I think the battery posts are under the white piece of tape on the right - easy access for an NFC receiver to charge:
Worst case, the battery contacts are accessible under the midframe (10 screws):
So, do you think a retrofit of an existing Qi receiver would work? (the NFC part might be not used). The shield on the back over the battery might have to be removed, but I am not sure of it's purpose. Alternatively, anybody heard if any company is making a Qi receiver for the 5X? I'd buy the 5X over the 6P if I could get wireless charging.
I guarantee it's do-able. I don't know if the battery fuel gauge contains the logic to simply solder the coil output directly to the leads going to the battery but it shouldn't be a problem to solder to the VDC/GND pins/traces coming from the USB port. The only thing that concerns me, and I'm saying this w/out having looked at how USB c accomplishes it's reversibility, is that the pins for power aren't achiral (for lack of a better word) depending on the orientation of the plug. Would need to read up on that.
Just saw another thread opened shortly after this one was posted:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-5x/general/nexus-5x-qi-wireless-hack-mod-t3231461
Guess I had the right idea , but the video shows only the teardown, no connection.
Hi
etwashoo said:
Just saw another thread opened shortly after this one was posted:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-5x/general/nexus-5x-qi-wireless-hack-mod-t3231461
Guess I had the right idea , but the video shows only the teardown, no connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The NFC antenna is around the camera, you are correct on that. That foam material, I'm guessing that is what it is, is there to fill any gap between the battery and the back case to avoid the back being able to press down, and being soft it works with the varying differences in tolerance with the the battery thickness. It could even be to fill a recess that was suppose to be filled by a wireless charging coil.
Notice though the foam continues up to the site of the fingerprint reader. That should remain, it's job is to apply pressure on the contact pads of the flexible circuit board.
In the video where they show a mod, what they have done is used a QI coil which has it's own circuitry which outputs 5 volts, this connects by thin wires to the +5v and ground of the USB socket, and from there goes to the battery via the normal charging circuit, the phone doesn't know it is wireless charging, it just looks like a USB charger is attached. This direct connection may cause a problem when plugging in a normal USB charger as you end up with 5 volts in reverse going into the QI circuitry and charger, presumably though that circuity is protected with a diode so it doesn't matter.
You shouldn't connect anything directly to the battery terminal as this will bypass all the charging circuitry and would cause damage and likely trigger the batteries protection circuits and cut it dead.
How cleanly the back refits is another thing, their can't be that much space.
Regards
Phil
First time poster. Long time lurker. I'm hoping to add something useful to the community.
I have had my galaxy note 10.1 GT-N801X since launch but as of recently I have been struggling to find a use for it. A couple years ago it started to feel slow and clunky and then I started having problems with the battery. It has then been sitting in a box refusing to boot up until now. I found a couple places that sold replacement batteries online and the price wasn't too bad. Replacing the battery would have been a viable option however I have issues that the device cannot usually be used while charging and it takes a long time to fully charge. Even when the tablet was new I remember that battery live wasn't that great when using it intensively. For me the novelty of the pen had worn off, portability was less of a concern (As I have my phone for that), and the device feels slow and clunky and the screen is not that great by today's standards.
So I decided to fix it as cheaply as possible and design it to be timer for my home gym where it could also play YouTube videos and stream content from Plex web and Netflix if I wanted to. It would be close to an outlet at all times and I would not like to deal with the hassle of dead batteries and not being able to use it while charging. I would not be using the SPEN and I would not be using it for close up viewing tasks. So i decided to remove the old dead battery and hardwire in a plug.
*** CONTINUE AT YOUR OWN RISK *** I AM NOT AN EXPERT AND I AM GENUINELY SURPRISED SOMETHING SO SIMPLE WORKED ***
1. My first step was to open up the tablet and remove the old battery. It wasn't very hard and their are quite a few guides out there already. My only advice is to be careful when removing the connectors. After a couple years some of them have become quite delicate.
2. My next step was to get all of the parts prepared. I had an old 5V USB charging block that can output up to 2A. I had an old USB to micro USB cable that only had 2 wires on the inside. I cut off the micro usb end and stripped the wire ends. Then I cut the 5 wire battery connector off of the old batter and carefully stripped the end of the wires.
Just a note of caution, the original battery says it is 3.7V with a 4.2V max charging voltage. By using a 5V power block you are going to be overpowering the board. I thought I might immediately blow the board or lead to overheating. So far it is not a problem. At this point I have used it for about 12 hours in total and a max of 4 hours a time. But I don't leave it plugged in unattended just in case.
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3. Then I assembled all of the pieces. The salvaged plug from the old battery has 5 wires. The two red are the positive terminal and the 2 black are the negative terminals. I have no idea what the blue is but that is unimportant for the project. Before soldering I tested the outputs from the USB cable. Red was positive. White was negative. The output was 4.8V. I soldered the red wire from the USB cable to the two red wires of the battery cable harness and then soldered the white wire from the usb cable to the two black wires of the harness. I debated whether or not to attach the blue wire to the ground... but in the end I just left it untouched and everything worked out fine. I then covered the solder points with hot glue so they would not short on anything. It was a little bit too tight for electrical tape.
4. I then plugged the wiring harness back into the tablet and attached the wire to the back of the case with some hot glue so it couldn't be accidentally ripped out. I didn't bother putting the cover on the back of the tablet. I just put on the case and cut a small section out so the cable could pass freely through the side. I then powered it up and installed the newest version of lineageOS and my apps.
Finished project:
Update:
Here is the link to my imgur album imgur.com/a/IAl7n
Just post links without. www or http.
Users can add them