Database Users

Broken Battery Connector (Dead Phone)

Long post, sorry.
Phone slid off the couch, hit the floor, battery door popped off, and afterwards if I moved the phone while on a call or slid the keyboard out to type it would just go black.
A light shake and it would die. So I popped the battery out and took the back cover off. Inside, the black battery connector (I can post a pic) was half attached like a loose tooth.
Took it to a repair shop, the guy was great soldered it back on but said it probably wouldnt charge cause a line on the main board broke????.
Phone doesn't seem to recognize the battery. Red solid light when plugged in, no amber with the battery in. Wont turn on. Anyone have any suggestions or am I looking at a brick. Does anyone on this board do repairs like this?
Its a Softbank X01HT from ebay and I flashed it to Mobile 6 so warranty is pretty much out of the question.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Fredrick
PS, I'd make a suggestion to anyone who's battery moves around inside the phone to wedge it in place so this doesn't happen to you. We don't hear of this happening often(or ever) but it happen to me, I suspect its because the battery has a little bit of room to move.

May get a chance late tomorrow to see if there may be a work around. This is not an easy board to work on though. A pic of the "broken-line" would be most useful if at all possible,
Can we assume, the black part you refer to is the part with the gold battery connectors at the bottom of this photo?
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Mike

Thanks for the quick reply Mike.
While it was off he showed me the bottom of the connector assembly, where the broken line is.
Red arrows are the 6 solder points
Blue arrows show the line.( I think, I'm not 100% sure what a line is)
How this helps clarify.
Thanks,
Fredrick

Well sadly, having looked at the board, I think the guy who soldered the connector back on, did about as good a job as it is possible to do. It appears that the connector block contacts (two of them) have broken off the board contacts. With a crude board you could simply trace back to the break point and solder a wire from the board to the connector. However the Hermes usesa multi-layer board that means it is impossible to trace back to a point just after the break.
Unfortunately then, unless there was some of the board contact still showing, you cannot solder short wires to join to the contact block With a detailed circuit diagram you might be able to identify alternate points to solder a couple of wires to link to the connector block. This though is such a remote possibility that you can virtually count it out. I do not know of such a diagram that is publically available and manual soldering on this scale would be almost impossible. If HTC were asked to repair this board, they would just replace it.
Sorry!
Mike
PS You didn't say whether it worked normally after the repair and before the battery ran flat. If it did, you could in theory charge your batteries in a free standing battery charger, but I doubt it would be worth the hassle.

mikechannon said:
You didn't say whether it worked normally after the repair and before the battery ran flat. If it did, you could in theory charge your batteries in a free standing battery charger, but I doubt it would be worth the hassle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Our solder friend suggested the same, but the phone doesn't recognize the battery being connected. So no dice, its a brick.
Anyone want to buy a white case with a front camera. Or better yet, can I buy a board for it somewhere?
Thanks again for a your time Mike.
Fredrick

Build a charger for your Touch 3G

Hey guys. I have had a few PPCs in the past but the Jade is my first SmartPhone. I like to charge my PPCs in the car as I use them for navigating. I use a universal holder plus I dismantle one of these
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as they are easier to wiggle into any dashboard gaps you might have. They are pretty readily available on eBay, but note that they tend to have pretty low guage wire and aren't configured as twisted pairs so it is pretty hit and miss using it to transmit data but it seems to have no problem transmitting DC current. I have used this for very long trips using devices that pull about 1A of current and the cable doesn't warm up so I presume the resistance must be low enough for charging purposes.
Simply connect the other end to a USB Car Charger and you are nearly ready to go. Connecting it up this way will trigger charging but I suspect the device assumes it is connected to a PC as it turns the screen on when you connect it this way as apposed to the Wall Charger where the screen remains off. Careful using USB Chargers designed for other devices (Ipod etc) as they have configurations which may confuse / damage your device. I found this out the hard way when I connected my Jade to an Ipod USB Car Charger which caused all sorts of grief with an undetectable microSD card, the device refusing to turn off which although is now resolved, I am still uncertain whether I haven't caused some damage
So how do you convince the Jade to charge from your Car Charger like a Wall Charger? Well first thing to be aware of is that devices that implement USB charging have various methods of detecting a connection to a Wall Charger as apposed to a computer. As I have mentioned, the iPod (and my old iPaq) uses a resistor configuration between the Ground, 5V and Data Pins to tell the device that it is connected. Fortunately the Jade is much simpler. I have determined from searching the web plus attacking my Wall Charger with a multimeter that all that is required is that the Data Pins are bridged and that the Metal Socket Surround is connected to the Ground Pin (which it is anyway in most Generic Chargers). All that was involved in mine was opening the Charger, finding the middle data pins on the circuit board and dropping a solder bridge between them. Make sure you buy a good quality USB Car Charger that is easy to dismantle (mine was held together by screws) and can provide at least 1A.
Enjoy

My previous phone was a palm treo pro (htc panther), for which i bought a sprint car charger (micro usb). The first charger that was sent to me was heavily used, so i complained and got a new one. After i returned my treo, i got the jade and decided to sell the new charger and modify the old one (which was working fine, except the connector didnt connect properly) to charge the jade. So i opened it up and soldered the two (+ & -) wires to an old usb extension cable, so that now i have a car plug with and usb(-a) socket slightly standing out. When i connect my mini-usb cable for the jade only the charging led lights up.

What did you do with Data Wires? If you joined them together then you have achieved the same outcome as a solder bridge.

Nothing, i just cut them as short as i could. They dont connect to each other...the outer ground isnt connected, too...

[How to] Get AC charging speed in your car

This post is dedicated for those who frequently use their beloved smartphone/tablet in the car for navigation or music.
Bored to see your device still loosing battery even if plugged in the car? The charging speed is way too slow?
Seems it gets less juice than it consumes for GPS ?
We will discuss why and how to trick this.
(I know it is already a well known subject but who knows, maybe it will help someone.)
Why ?
The low speed battery charge is due to the fact modern devices control themselves AC power they need for charging.
The device see two possible states when pluggin the microUSB connector :
- The USB plug is used for data connexion (with a Computer, USB Stick or any OTG accessory)
- The USB plug is used for charging only
Here is a wiring diagram of microUSB/USB cable (non-OTG) :
View attachment 2852878
To know in which state he actualy is, the device test the two data connectors D+ and D-.
If there is no connection between them, the devices assumes it is plugged on a computer. Then it limits its own consumption for charge to 500mA. This is how much a standard USB port is able to provide on a computer.
But if the two data pins are connected together, the devices believe he is plugged on standard AC and get the power it really need to charge efficiently (1A, 2A,... depends of the device).
How ?
WARNING
Do NOT plug this connector in your computer.
Do NOT use it for another usage than the usage I describe.
It might destroy the planet (almost)​Assuming you don't want to destroy a connexion cable, there is a simple trick to achieve the very same result using a simple USB Female to USB Male Adapter.
View attachment 2852841
Why such a connector have been created is quite weird to me but it serves our purpose so let's get a cheap one on ebay
For the modding you will need
A sharp knife / cutter / scalpel
Soldering tools (iron, materials)
Cyanolit glue (or any glue you likes)
5 min
First, use the knife to open the connector form the side. Do it gently since you will reassemble it the same way in the end.
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Use the knife again to remove some of the white plastic to reach the internal connector pins
Here you can see the two pins are unconnected
Use the soldering kit you have to connect the two central pins
(In fact the USB specification mention a 200 Ohm resistance. Mine works without it).
Beware for the soldering not to touch the external part of the connector
Verify the connection between D- and D+ through the connector
Reassemble the connector with the glue
Result
You will get "AC charging" on your device while using this connector between your car power supply and the charging cable of your device.
Before / After
Corrections and advices are of course welcome
Narkoa

Yep or if you have an s3 or s2 get siyah kernel then install stweaks and change charging speed on USB plug
Sent from my GT-I9300 using XDA Free mobile app

thatonerootuser said:
Yep or if you have an s3 or s2 get siyah kernel then install stweaks and change charging speed on USB plug
Sent from my GT-I9300 using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Input: DC 12-24V and Output: DC 5.0V/1000mA . Nealy 1A output current is enough for most cell phones
Edit. Sorry the image is a little bit large . I dont' know how to limit it's display width on forum thread.

SallyChen said:
Input: DC 12-24V and Output: DC 5.0V/1000mA . Nealy 1A output current is enough for most cell phones
Edit. Sorry the image is a little bit large . I dont' know how to limit it's display width on forum thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
very interesting trick...

Macro photo of the Amazon Fire 2015 motherboard

As it's easy to open without damage and I didn't found proper ones yet, here are my photos of the board (minus the two QR-Code Serial numbers)
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I just added wireless charging, by connecting the following item to the GND and VCHG spots on the mainboard.
It's very thin, and there's enough space inside so that when you close the back there's nothing apparently unusual.

That require soldering?

Yes, the gnd is easy, the vchg needs a steady hand but no specialized equipment.

I wonder if it´s possible to extend the wifi-antenna,
is there anythink like that attached that could be optimized?

I think so, yes, see the BT & Wifi spring connector on the top right of the mainboard, they make contact to pins on the back cover. I think you can easily re-route them to a better antenna. Although I have no idea about the geometry of the actual antenna emebebed into the back cover.

There is a lot of space there. What? A 2980mah battery? Can I replace the mono speaker with another one?

Thanks! Could you also take a picture of the back of the motherboard?

There's indeed a lot of space, and you could replace the speaker easily, the only challenge is finding a better one and I have no experience in that area.
EDIT 1 :
I desoldered the speaker, unhooked the back camera and LCD flat flex to try to flip the mainboard (removing 5 screws), but there's still a flex retaining it. i don't want to force it. but I was able to see the back of the mainboard and apart from the front-facing camera and a few passive components, there's really nothing there.
I took photos of the chip on the top left with the sticky kapton peeled :
It's labeled SSD6250QN4-N527DU
I also took a bicture of the back cover
Notice the NFC tag on the bottom and the BT/Wifi antenna connector on the top.
And the baord with the wireless Qi charger soldered

The SSD6250 is a Capacitive Touch Panel Controller made by Solomon Systech

Qi reciever
Is there any link to buy this Qi reciever?
I took a little research on Amazon but i couldn't find it.

The link is provided a few posts before yours (click on the picture), I bought it from DealExtreme in China (crazy low price, so-so quality and death-slow logistics).

Buy it from anywhere except DealExtreme. They use to be a good store years ago but not anymore. Items you purchase from them may take literally months to even ship. These Qi receivers are available from many places. Try ebay, fasttech, banggood.

does that wireless charging mod still have overcharge protection?

Yes, as it goes directly to the USB connector. It benefits from the same protection as a charge by USB.

Thanks for the photos! Can you get a closer shot of the areas soldered for the qi wireless pad connections?

Sure :
GND can be soldered to almost any golden pad. The photo shows the black wire soldered to the pad, adn the red wire (underneath) shrink-wraped to my purple extension lead that goes to VCHG
The pads are small but not too small (about 1mm) the bodged soldering job comes from the fact that I Soldered/desoldered multple times to make those photos. You can see that we also have access to what seems to be the differient data pair of the USB connector.

How much does the Qi receiver seem to press against the back cover? Was there any actual extra space between the back cover and the battery before adding the Qi receiver? I don't have a fire7 yet so I don't know if there is any give when pressing on the back cover (on a stock fire7) indicating space between cover and battery.
Wondering if it would be worth it to separate the Qi receiver electronics from the coil. Place the coil on the battery & the electronics in the empty space below the battery. They sell a Qi receiver coil (no electronics) for the LG G3 which has flat leads. Ebay link
(the outer coil is nfc)

There's no real empty space, but the Qi receiver I use is really thin (1mm at most). If I didn't knew, I wouldn't notice the small bulge that you can feel when everything is closed. The coil is definitely the thicker part of the Qi receiver on mine, so there would be no benefit for me to separate it. But again everything works happily in it's current form. This receiver is designed to be tightly sandwiched after all. Your LG G3 coil seems especially thin, but as you said it's incomplete, and I don't know about thin Qi managment only board (but in this day an age, I won't doubt you can found one). The other thing to consider is the output power it's able to give. Mine is rated 5Vx1A (although that's a chinese rating, I won't bet my life on it) and it is enough to recharge the Fire (it's detected as charging, it does charge, but I never compared it to a wired charger).

Since there is dead space below the battery in the fire7 I'd just use the receiver electronics from any standard receiver, switching the included coil for the thin LG G3 coil. Place the electronics below the battery and connect to the thin LG G3 coil which could be placed on top of the battery. The efficiency of the thin coil is unknown tho.
Total cost would be ~ $4. A standard Qi receiver is $2 - 3 on ebay & the thin LG G3 coil is $2.

Galaxy note tab 10.1 GT-N801X Dead battery fix - Removal and hardwired

First time poster. Long time lurker. I'm hoping to add something useful to the community.
I have had my galaxy note 10.1 GT-N801X since launch but as of recently I have been struggling to find a use for it. A couple years ago it started to feel slow and clunky and then I started having problems with the battery. It has then been sitting in a box refusing to boot up until now. I found a couple places that sold replacement batteries online and the price wasn't too bad. Replacing the battery would have been a viable option however I have issues that the device cannot usually be used while charging and it takes a long time to fully charge. Even when the tablet was new I remember that battery live wasn't that great when using it intensively. For me the novelty of the pen had worn off, portability was less of a concern (As I have my phone for that), and the device feels slow and clunky and the screen is not that great by today's standards.
So I decided to fix it as cheaply as possible and design it to be timer for my home gym where it could also play YouTube videos and stream content from Plex web and Netflix if I wanted to. It would be close to an outlet at all times and I would not like to deal with the hassle of dead batteries and not being able to use it while charging. I would not be using the SPEN and I would not be using it for close up viewing tasks. So i decided to remove the old dead battery and hardwire in a plug.
*** CONTINUE AT YOUR OWN RISK *** I AM NOT AN EXPERT AND I AM GENUINELY SURPRISED SOMETHING SO SIMPLE WORKED ***
1. My first step was to open up the tablet and remove the old battery. It wasn't very hard and their are quite a few guides out there already. My only advice is to be careful when removing the connectors. After a couple years some of them have become quite delicate.
2. My next step was to get all of the parts prepared. I had an old 5V USB charging block that can output up to 2A. I had an old USB to micro USB cable that only had 2 wires on the inside. I cut off the micro usb end and stripped the wire ends. Then I cut the 5 wire battery connector off of the old batter and carefully stripped the end of the wires.
Just a note of caution, the original battery says it is 3.7V with a 4.2V max charging voltage. By using a 5V power block you are going to be overpowering the board. I thought I might immediately blow the board or lead to overheating. So far it is not a problem. At this point I have used it for about 12 hours in total and a max of 4 hours a time. But I don't leave it plugged in unattended just in case.
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3. Then I assembled all of the pieces. The salvaged plug from the old battery has 5 wires. The two red are the positive terminal and the 2 black are the negative terminals. I have no idea what the blue is but that is unimportant for the project. Before soldering I tested the outputs from the USB cable. Red was positive. White was negative. The output was 4.8V. I soldered the red wire from the USB cable to the two red wires of the battery cable harness and then soldered the white wire from the usb cable to the two black wires of the harness. I debated whether or not to attach the blue wire to the ground... but in the end I just left it untouched and everything worked out fine. I then covered the solder points with hot glue so they would not short on anything. It was a little bit too tight for electrical tape.
4. I then plugged the wiring harness back into the tablet and attached the wire to the back of the case with some hot glue so it couldn't be accidentally ripped out. I didn't bother putting the cover on the back of the tablet. I just put on the case and cut a small section out so the cable could pass freely through the side. I then powered it up and installed the newest version of lineageOS and my apps.
Finished project:
Update:
Here is the link to my imgur album imgur.com/a/IAl7n

Just post links without. www or http.
Users can add them