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Build a charger for your Touch 3G

Hey guys. I have had a few PPCs in the past but the Jade is my first SmartPhone. I like to charge my PPCs in the car as I use them for navigating. I use a universal holder plus I dismantle one of these
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as they are easier to wiggle into any dashboard gaps you might have. They are pretty readily available on eBay, but note that they tend to have pretty low guage wire and aren't configured as twisted pairs so it is pretty hit and miss using it to transmit data but it seems to have no problem transmitting DC current. I have used this for very long trips using devices that pull about 1A of current and the cable doesn't warm up so I presume the resistance must be low enough for charging purposes.
Simply connect the other end to a USB Car Charger and you are nearly ready to go. Connecting it up this way will trigger charging but I suspect the device assumes it is connected to a PC as it turns the screen on when you connect it this way as apposed to the Wall Charger where the screen remains off. Careful using USB Chargers designed for other devices (Ipod etc) as they have configurations which may confuse / damage your device. I found this out the hard way when I connected my Jade to an Ipod USB Car Charger which caused all sorts of grief with an undetectable microSD card, the device refusing to turn off which although is now resolved, I am still uncertain whether I haven't caused some damage
So how do you convince the Jade to charge from your Car Charger like a Wall Charger? Well first thing to be aware of is that devices that implement USB charging have various methods of detecting a connection to a Wall Charger as apposed to a computer. As I have mentioned, the iPod (and my old iPaq) uses a resistor configuration between the Ground, 5V and Data Pins to tell the device that it is connected. Fortunately the Jade is much simpler. I have determined from searching the web plus attacking my Wall Charger with a multimeter that all that is required is that the Data Pins are bridged and that the Metal Socket Surround is connected to the Ground Pin (which it is anyway in most Generic Chargers). All that was involved in mine was opening the Charger, finding the middle data pins on the circuit board and dropping a solder bridge between them. Make sure you buy a good quality USB Car Charger that is easy to dismantle (mine was held together by screws) and can provide at least 1A.
Enjoy

My previous phone was a palm treo pro (htc panther), for which i bought a sprint car charger (micro usb). The first charger that was sent to me was heavily used, so i complained and got a new one. After i returned my treo, i got the jade and decided to sell the new charger and modify the old one (which was working fine, except the connector didnt connect properly) to charge the jade. So i opened it up and soldered the two (+ & -) wires to an old usb extension cable, so that now i have a car plug with and usb(-a) socket slightly standing out. When i connect my mini-usb cable for the jade only the charging led lights up.

What did you do with Data Wires? If you joined them together then you have achieved the same outcome as a solder bridge.

Nothing, i just cut them as short as i could. They dont connect to each other...the outer ground isnt connected, too...

Fast charge with the CU-S400 (official HD2 car kit) running Android

It is a fact that charging the HD2 with a wall adapter goes a lot faster (1000 mA) than a USB port (500 mA). They make it possible for the device to detect if you are charging through a USB port or a wall adapter by shorting the two middle pins (D+ and D-) on a wall adapter. More information about charging differences between USB ports and wall adapters can be found here: http://www.attdroids.com/forum/motorola-backflip-development-hacking/683-motorola-fast-charge-usb-hack.html
Now under Windows Mobile, HTC built in the software that when you use the CU-S400, the HD2 WILL pull 1000 mA from the power source, not respecting the USB power standards. The issue is that Android DOES respect the USB power standards and detects the CU-S400 as an USB port and thus only pulls 500 mA through the car kit, because the D+ and D- wires are not shorted in the device. Even worse, they aren't even passed from the USB cable, so if you think using a hacked USB cable will solve this issue, you are wrong.
Because I didn't found a software solution for this issue and because charging at 500 mA is useless (with GPS on, the HD2 consumes more than 500 mA), I started hacking my CU-S400 . Now for all of you CU-S400 owners that are running Android, I think you might find these guidelines to hack it very useful
1. Click open the micro USB connector on the CU-S400 on the side by using a small, flat and thin screwdriver. Click open on both sides. It gives some resistance but don't worry, it will click.
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2. Lift out the connector through the clicked open box. Do this with the little mainboard first, trying to get the connector out first will not work. This step can require some tinkering, but don't worry, take your time and it will come out.
3. Now we have to short the D+ and D- wires of the USB port. As you can see on the main board, they are even not passed from the USB cable, which makes hacking the device a bit easier. Connect the two pins as shown on the picture with a cupper wire. I didn't soldered them on the mainboard with some tin on purpose, because I didn't wanted a permanent solution (very unlikely, but you never know I want to go back to Windows Mobile . If you want a permanent solution and aren't afraid of soldering and taking risks, I would advise to solder the cupper wire.
4. Test your hack! Before putting it all together again, connect your HD2 to the main board and put a USB cable in your wall adapter to make sure the bridge is made. From now on, don't ever connect your car kit to a PC USB port! It might work perfectly, but you risk to frie your PC or USB port if it isn't designed to provide the required 1000 mA!
5. Re-asseble your CU-S400 the reverse way you pulled it apart.
PS: just for the record, I can not be held responsible for any damage to your HD2 or car kit because of using these guidelines.

Great!
I just did it myself today not knowing someone had made a guide in here ..
But i strongly recommend to disassemble it the right way by pulling the transparent off by hitting it from the top and down, then it should pop right off, so you can unscrew the three small torx screws underneath it..
The CU S400 mod is a must for HD2 users, running Android and gps in the car

Hello,
Does it put your HD2 Android into car mode automatically.
Thanks for your replay.

Thanks!

[Q] Slow charging with usb extender

Hey guys.
I take a usb extender cable with me to the university.
it looks like this one:
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unfortunately, it charges really slow when I use it.
anyone knows the reason?
there are some guides on turning a usb cable to "charge only" cable.
it just doesn't make sense that a cable that IS capable of transferring data (like the stock N4 cable) performs normally, while this one needs to have the data pins shorted to charge normally.
I am running OmniROM with Hellscore kernel and use fast charge without a difference in charging speed.

how long is the cable and what is the ac current on the adapter?, the longer the cable the more resistance (the cable obviously wont be past 1m to matter), you should be using a stronger ac adapter.
if your charging from pc then its going to be worse,

Like the poster above mentioned it's probably due to the extended length causing a higher resistance. I have lots of different ac chargers in my house including one from a Samsung wave 2. It has a pretty long and very thin cable and charging speeds are noticeable slower in comparison to my other ones.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using XDA Free mobile app

thanks for your replies.
I use the stock charger so it's 1.2a 5v.
the extender is 1.5x the size of the stock cable, and it connects to a samsung micro usb cable (which charges just fine on its own) which is 2/3 the size of the stock cable.
doesn't seem like it's too long to me, it's just ~2 times the length of the original cable and it can't handle it?
what am I suppose to do? I need it that long.. should I follow the "charge only usb cable" guide for the extender? or purchase a single longer cable (shouldn't make a difference according to your remarks about resistance).

Well, I'm a carpenter not an electrician but I think you can compensate with a charger with higher output. I don't know what the max is the n4 can handle, though.
Generally this could have different reasons to begin with. For instance there are cables that just suck. Another point is, using your extender you have an extra connection on the way from the charger to your device. Plug connections are often known to cause a loss. And then there's the fact that most extender cables aren't made for charging but for data.
So you see not every USB cable is the same. I have a HTC car charger working really good with all my devices while a no name one I had couldn't even hold up with the drain caused by GPS/BT/display when mounted in my car even though both were specifically made for charging through the car ac.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using XDA Free mobile app

Being data cables they fit the requirements, the nexus 4 charges under 1amp while the phone its based off is higher that explains the charger,
Usb3 cables allow more current upto 900mah apposed to usb2 at 500mah so it should take twice as long to charge or longer if it doesnt break 500mah barrier
Also the wire gauge, cheaper brands will use thinner wires,so a 24gauge will be able to handle 2amps for tablets etc.
A usb3 cable will be better, you can find thin flexible cables that do meet the requirements
http://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Super-Extension-Surrounded-Connector/dp/B00A5321MW

[Q] Broken microUSB port, not charging or data working.

Hi,
I don't know if I'm posting in the right section, but here is the thing. I've got GeeksPhone Keon Developer Preview, It's a Firefox OS phone, but I've flashed an Android version on it. Everything worked great for about 6 months, and then the phone stopped charging, and it was also not detected by PC. When I plug it to a PC the phone does not detect it's plugged in also the PC does not detect the phone. I tried other microUSB cables and it's the same. I also tried flashing the Android again as I thought maybe it's software related but the problem still exists. Hopefully I installed recovery on it. I currently charge the battery externally, everything else works as expected.
Yesterday I decided to mess with the phone, as I don't have the warranty. I opened it up and checked if the phone actually has power when plugged to the charger. I noticed that the battery is powered so It is charging but the Android OS does not detect that, and decreases the battery via software. I think that the D+ or D- pins are broken, and I'm not sure if they are used for the phone to know if it's charging.
Here is the picture of the circuit board and my findings. Camera is not great so the picture is not that great also.
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0. Is the microUSB port, and I guess there is a problem with it, maybe D+ or D- pins got broken.
1. Those are D+ and D- resistors they are good I've tested them.
2. Those are battery pins. When I probed them when micro USB is plugged in they have power.
3. It's some kind of a IC for power, I think it's used to switch power to the battery from microUSB.
I don't have that good soldering skills so I couldn't resolder the microUSB port, so I'm asking if someone knows another approach to enable the charging via software, as software does not detect that battery is charging, when actually power from microUSB comes to the battery, and because of that it decreases the battery status on Android.
So I'm thinking if I can execute some command so I can trick the phone to believe it's charging, so the battery will charge and when I plug it out I execute the second command to turn off fake charging?
Thanks in advance!

Funny that you have this problem, I just fixed mine today that had the same problem. Basically the micro usb port stopped working because the parts soldered on the motherboard were loose after too much wiggling (cheap mtk phone I guess). I tried resoldering but its just too small, I could not event test the connexions with a multimeter. So I went to one of the million of asian cell phone shops in indonesia where I'm actually travelling and paid 5$ for a guy to fix it. They do it all the time and have expert fingers. Not my phone plugs perfectly, try to find one near your place, wherever that is
Sent from my P5 using XDA Free mobile app

vita94 said:
Yesterday I decided to mess with the phone, as I don't have the warranty. I opened it up and checked if the phone actually has power when plugged to the charger. I noticed that the battery is powered so It is charging but the Android OS does not detect that, and decreases the battery via software. I think that the D+ or D- pins are broken, and I'm not sure if they are used for the phone to know if it's charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What happens if you put a charge over those connections? It won't accept any? Or does it charge but the software isn't detecting it? Another way of fixing it would be making a separate charger for your battery only, of course that would mean that your phone is useless while charging. I'm pretty sure if you force a charge over it it will absorb it, but I wouldn't exactly know how you could check the battery status so that you don't overcharge it this way.

Retrofit Wireless Charging Receiver in Nexus 5X?

I just saw the iFixit teardown
https://youtu.be/VYFbSpvSE-w
I retrofitted a Galaxy S5 and S4 to wireless charging with Qi receivers off of eBay:
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I know there is one for the G4 (since it's in their flip cover), but I was wondering if it is possible to work with an existing coil and wire it up to the Nexus 5X.
First, the cover pops off like a Galaxy S5 cover:
Here is the back cover and internals. Normally, the NFC covers the battery, but I am thinking it might be above the camera since there are connectors from cover to internals and would make sense for Android pay. So, what is the big shield on the right that covers the battery? (see question mark):
I think the battery posts are under the white piece of tape on the right - easy access for an NFC receiver to charge:
Worst case, the battery contacts are accessible under the midframe (10 screws):
So, do you think a retrofit of an existing Qi receiver would work? (the NFC part might be not used). The shield on the back over the battery might have to be removed, but I am not sure of it's purpose. Alternatively, anybody heard if any company is making a Qi receiver for the 5X? I'd buy the 5X over the 6P if I could get wireless charging.

I guarantee it's do-able. I don't know if the battery fuel gauge contains the logic to simply solder the coil output directly to the leads going to the battery but it shouldn't be a problem to solder to the VDC/GND pins/traces coming from the USB port. The only thing that concerns me, and I'm saying this w/out having looked at how USB c accomplishes it's reversibility, is that the pins for power aren't achiral (for lack of a better word) depending on the orientation of the plug. Would need to read up on that.

Just saw another thread opened shortly after this one was posted:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-5x/general/nexus-5x-qi-wireless-hack-mod-t3231461
Guess I had the right idea , but the video shows only the teardown, no connection.

Hi
etwashoo said:
Just saw another thread opened shortly after this one was posted:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-5x/general/nexus-5x-qi-wireless-hack-mod-t3231461
Guess I had the right idea , but the video shows only the teardown, no connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The NFC antenna is around the camera, you are correct on that. That foam material, I'm guessing that is what it is, is there to fill any gap between the battery and the back case to avoid the back being able to press down, and being soft it works with the varying differences in tolerance with the the battery thickness. It could even be to fill a recess that was suppose to be filled by a wireless charging coil.
Notice though the foam continues up to the site of the fingerprint reader. That should remain, it's job is to apply pressure on the contact pads of the flexible circuit board.
In the video where they show a mod, what they have done is used a QI coil which has it's own circuitry which outputs 5 volts, this connects by thin wires to the +5v and ground of the USB socket, and from there goes to the battery via the normal charging circuit, the phone doesn't know it is wireless charging, it just looks like a USB charger is attached. This direct connection may cause a problem when plugging in a normal USB charger as you end up with 5 volts in reverse going into the QI circuitry and charger, presumably though that circuity is protected with a diode so it doesn't matter.
You shouldn't connect anything directly to the battery terminal as this will bypass all the charging circuitry and would cause damage and likely trigger the batteries protection circuits and cut it dead.
How cleanly the back refits is another thing, their can't be that much space.
Regards
Phil