Database Users

{MOD}{Guide}Added an HDMI switch to the speaker dock

This mod is designed to add the ability to enable/disable the HDMI output on the speaker dock. The reason i thought of this was because the xoom acts as though it is connected to the TV even when the tv is off, therefore routing audio to the tv and not the speakers​
I apologize in advance for the picture quality as i only have my Thunderbolt to take pictures with. it still did a great job on most macro shots but my lighting wasn't the best.
This mod is not terrible complicated to those who has some experience soldering and wiring.
What you will need:
an exacto knife
soldering gun
fine solder
Torx head bits
about 1.5 feet of fine wire
Step 1.
First we need to take the dock apart. start off peeling the rubber mat off the bottom of the dock. The easiest way to do this is to use a hair dryer and heat the rubber up and peal it off. Set the rubber aside so it the sticky tape doesn't get messed up , you will want to put it back on at the end.
Now that you have the rubber mat off you have access tot he screws that hold the dock together. remove all of these with your torx bit.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Step 2.
after removing the screws, pull the unit apart. Now you have access to the inside.
You will need to remove the HDMI cable, this is pretty easy so i wont go into detail. here it is removed
Step 3.
Ok next we need to tap into the "Hot Plug Detect" wire in the HDMI cable
Type A receptacle HDMI
Pin 1 TMDS Data2+
Pin 2 TMDS Data2 Shield
Pin 3 TMDS Data2–
Pin 4 TMDS Data1+
Pin 5 TMDS Data1 Shield
Pin 6 TMDS Data1–
Pin 7 TMDS Data0+
Pin 8 TMDS Data0 Shield
Pin 9 TMDS Data0–
Pin 10 TMDS Clock+
Pin 11 TMDS Clock Shield
Pin 12 TMDS Clock–
Pin 13 CEC
Pin 14 Reserved (HDMI 1.0-1.3c), HEC Data- (Optional, HDMI 1.4+ with Ethernet)
Pin 15 SCL (I²C Serial Clock for DDC)
Pin 16 SDA (I²C Serial Data Line for DDC)
Pin 17 DDC/CEC/HEC Ground
Pin 18 +5 V Power (max 50 mA)
Pin 19 Hot Plug Detect (All versions) and HEC Data+ (Optional, HDMI 1.4+ with Ethernet)
Number 19 is the one we are looking for. I did the hard work and located that wire on the cable It is the White Wire.
Strip back the casing very carefully. once you stripped the black wire casing off you will need to cut through the metal mesh shield surrounding the inside wires. i used the exacto knife to cut through this. after you strip all the shielding back you should easily see the white wire. It is very small so this is where soldering experience comes it handy. cut the wire and VERY carefully strip back a tiny portion of the white casing to expose the wire inside. you'll need to solder one wire to each side as shown below
Step 4.
Set the HDMI cable aside, It's time to mount the switch.
I went to radioshack and bought a 2 pack of switches for $3
As for mounting locations, there was only one spot that i could think to mount it with the tools i had available ( i have no dremmel tool which i'm sure would have made this project easier)
You need to make a hole big enough for your switch. I made my hole with an exacto knife attachment for my solder gun.
Basically i used a hot exacto knife to burn through the back plastic. This is probably one of the toughest parts of this mod.
Next i used Stage 2 epoxy to secure the switch to the plastic . Its a good idea to use something abrasive to scub the plastic so the epoxy can get a good hold on it
Step 5.
Next we need to connect everything together. Reinstall the HDMI cable , and make sure to tape the wires that you soldered to the HDMI detect wire so they are secure and wont come off or touch anything else.
Now you need to connect those wires to your switch. I forgot to get a picture of the wires connected to the switch but all you need to do it solder the wires to any 2 pins that are next to each other
good configs
Pins
1 2 3
Pins
1 2 3
Bad configs
1 2 3
It really doesn't matter which wire goes on which side because all we are basically doing is completing a connection of those 2 wires.
Now in order to route those wires to the switch and gett he while thing to close i had to cut a channel for the wires to sit in
Now tape the wires going to the switch into the channel and put everything back together. Now plug in an HDMI cable and dock your xoom and try it out
Here is how mine came out. All in all im very happy with the results. I wish i could have cut a nicer looking hold but i lacked the proper equipment

Way to go!! Thanks for doing the legwork!!

Very cool mod...thanks for sharing

Sweet!
Thanks for sharing!

Thanks guys. My next mod is Gonna be figuring out how to add a USB port to it.

I would think a wiser mod would be to put that switch inline on the cable. A cable costs a few dollars, so it's OK to stuff it up as well as void it's warranty. Putting in a USB is another story, that would be VERY useful, and I am looking fwd to that. Keep up the good work.

Nice job. And although I kinda agree with putting the switch on an HDMI cable to avoid breaking the dock, I also like it integrated.

Great work on this man, I just got one of these docks today and have been thinking a lot about adding USB OTG, and retaining the functionality of the unit itsself. Did you ever end up getting around to doing that mod ?

Legacystar said:
Thanks guys. My next mod is Gonna be figuring out how to add a USB port to it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very interested in this. I was thinking of a 2-4 port hub would make it wonderful for gaming!

About HDMI Switch
The most professional hdmi switch website is www.hdgenius.com , You can have a look !

I what to no what is in side the usb cord and how the Chords inside the USB connect and what is what

DYI OTG USB cable (wow the acronyms) [no soldering required]

So, everyone knows that 3.1 is great for USB hosting things like mice, hard drives, flash drives, etc, etc, etc... And most people know that you can make a OTG cable out of an old data cord and some assorted parts, with soldering. My point in posting this is to show that there is no soldering needed, thus maybe some people who can't/don't want to solder can make an OTG cable. (Use electrical tape)
So, starting with a usb data, split open the micro-usb adapter head with a razor or knife, and keep peeling back the layers until all you have left is the trapezoidal male adapter and five prongs, a red, black, white, green and blank. There is a seam that is bisecting the plug, and it is the easiest way to cut it open. Work off the plastic cover and I would advise you to strip the first few inches of the actual cable aswell, then you can get to work.
You're going to need some kind of female full size usb plug to cannibalize, like of an old device with usb. (I tore one off a very old tower.) hold on to this for later.
Start by cutting the full size usb off the wire, and then cut about six inches of the data cable off and seperate the wires so that you can use one in the next step. Now strip the end of the main wire so that all four wires have about 1cm of exposed wire. take the usb port, and on the back, there will be four leads. the order is red, white, green, black. (When looking at the plug with the larger blank space below the smaller blank space in the plug.)
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Attach the wire that corresponds to each spot. Normally, this would be done with solder, but electrical tape works just as well. Simply use narrow, long strips of electrical tape to secure each wire to the leads, thus isolating each lead and making the system work. Don't be shy about using the tape, the more you use (reasonably), the more secure the system will be. This is a tedious process, but still it is easy enough to do.
Now for the part that tells the Xoom to be in host mode. Choose one wire from the six inches of wire you cut off, and strip both ends of it. strip the middle of the black wire (on your about to be OTG cable) around two inches from the micro usb head, and attach the second wire (that's six or so inches long) to it. Then, find the fifth, unused lead on the micro-usb assembly, and carefully attach the other end of the wire. This will take a bit of effort to orient it correctly, but once secure, again use strips of electrical tape to secure it and isolate it. When attaching the wires, use electrical tape cut into thin, long strips and work carefully to ensure that the wires you are attaching do not short out with any other contacts. This whole process may take a while.
If you can't locate the fifth port, then use the wire you are attaching to black to contact possible leads with a mouse attached, and if you find the right one, it will bring up a cursor.
As a final step, I wrapped mine up in duct table to make it stronger so that it will last and I can pack it along with me.
These are just my two cents I wanted to share, hopefully helping someone.
Final product:

short pin 1 to 5 and you'll damage your usb port. I guarantee the repair will easily exceed the $8 cost of an ebay otg cable.

Just be careful...
Sent from my Xoom using XDA Premium App

That's one sexy cable......hehe

wtf is that... smh

Cool pic....was that 19 dollars worth of duck tape? ...

I wish I had gone this route instead of buying one. Although I definitely would have used a little solder instead of over 9000 rolls of duct tape. I have to say yours looks epic, though.

[GUIDE] The $6 way to charging your EEE Pad on your computer

So I lost my AC adapter a few weeks ago and haven't been able to use my EEE Pad since I had a hard time finding a suitable replacement AC adapter so I decided to make my own out of parts I had laying around.
This guide will not teach you how to make an AC adapter! This guide will teach you how to charge your EEE Pad using your computer (desktops only!)
Required Parts:
Desktop Computer with an unused Molex power connector
USB Extension Cord: $2.77 on eBay
Molex -> PCI-e adapter: $2.76 on eBay
OPTIONAL: Soldering Iron
The whole process takes around 5 minutes!!!
The Guide
1) Cut off the male USB head on your USB extension cable. We're only going to need the female end.
2) Strip off about an inch of the shielding on your USB extension cable. You should see 4 different colored wires. Cut off the GREEN and WHITE cables. We only need the RED and BLACK wires.
3) Strip off about half an inch of shielding off both the RED and the BLACK wires.
4) Cut off the PCI-e head on the Molex-PCI-e adapter.
5) Strip off about an inch of shielding on the YELLOW and BLACK wires (on the Molex-PCIe adapter)
6) Connect the RED wire on the USB cable to the YELLOW wire on the Molex-PCIe adapter. Solder them together for best results! Connect the BLACK wires together also.
7) Use electric tape (or any kind of tape) and wrap up the connections (so it doesn't short out)
8) Hook up the Molex connector to the Molex power connector (found inside your computer), plug in your TF and enjoy!
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
WARNING: DO NOT CONNECT ANY OTHER DEVICE (ASIDE FROM THE TF) TO THIS USB PORT!! IT WILL FRY IT IMMEDIATELY!!

r34p3rex said:
So I lost my AC adapter a few weeks ago and haven't been able to use my EEE Pad since I had a hard time finding a suitable replacement AC adapter so I decided to make my own out of parts I had laying around.
This guide will not teach you how to make an AC adapter! This guide will teach you how to charge your EEE Pad using your computer (desktops only!)
Required Parts:
Desktop Computer with an unused Molex power connector
USB Extension Cord: $2.77 on eBay
Molex -> PCI-e adapter: $2.76 on eBay
OPTIONAL: Soldering Iron
The whole process takes around 5 minutes!!!
The Guide
1) Cut off the male USB head on your USB extension cable. We're only going to need the female end.
2) Strip off about an inch of the shielding on your USB extension cable. You should see 4 different colored wires. Cut off the GREEN and WHITE cables. We only need the RED and BLACK wires.
3) Strip off about half an inch of shielding off both the RED and the BLACK wires.
4) Cut off the PCI-e head on the Molex-PCI-e adapter.
5) Strip off about an inch of shielding on the YELLOW and BLACK wires (on the Molex-PCIe adapter)
6) Connect the RED wire on the USB cable to the YELLOW wire on the Molex-PCIe adapter. Solder them together for best results! Connect the BLACK wires together also.
7) Use electric tape (or any kind of tape) and wrap up the connections (so it doesn't short out)
8) Hook up the Molex connector to the Molex power connector (found inside your computer), plug in your TF and enjoy!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that but where do you get the connector to plug to the Transformer?

Friko said:
Thanks for that but where do you get the connector to plug to the Transformer?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the original USB 30 pin cable

So you're charging on the 12V rail?

frosty5689 said:
So you're charging on the 12V rail?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup. Any 12v source will do

I can finally find use for the third watercooling hole on my case... WOOO
The two molex to pci-e is so abundant if you happen to own any high-end gpu, they give you one for free.

Yea just don't make the mistake of plugging in anything else to that usb port..lol

Hey nice! Could come handy someday... Thanks for this!

pasta1234 said:
Yea just don't make the mistake of plugging in anything else to that usb port..lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This!! I should probably add a disclaimer

charging
i am a little bit afraid, to try it in my car!
it must be full charged in five minutes.
shall i try, or is it better for my money,
when other user did first?

michadreyer said:
i am a little bit afraid, to try it in my car!
it must be full charged in five minutes.
shall i try, or is it better for my money,
when other user did first?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What are you talking about?

frosty5689 said:
What are you talking about?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what he said.

Your signature is great!

Excellent idea successfully converted to reality. Good work.

SInce the original power adapter has DC Output:5Vdc/2A or 15Vdc/1.2A you can use any DC power supply of 12 to 15 volts > 1.2 amps if you are careful to hook up + and - correctly. So should be fine to power off 12v car adaptor.
REMEMBER , this is away more, 3x what a normal USB port delivers, so don;t try a standard USB cable , get one of the special cables listed in the guide to connect between your power source and your Asus charging cable.

DigitalMD said:
SInce the original power adapter has DC Output: 19.5V 60W (3A), you can use any DC power supply of 12 to 19 volts > 3 amps if you are careful to hook up + and - correctly. So should be fine to power off 12v car adaptor.
REMEMBER , this is away more, 6x what a normal USB port delivers, so don;t try a standard USB cable , get one of the special cables listed in the guide to connect between your power source and your Asus charging cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wait, what? The original charger is 5v/2A or 15v/1.2A

r34p3rex said:
Wait, what? The original charger is 5v/2A or 15v/1.2A
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wait, or STOP maybe? You are completely correct.
No way I plan to test 19v on my tablet.

Corrected to 15Vdc/1.2A . Still fine for a car charge system which should supply 12-14 VDC

So - in order to create a car charger - would the following be correct?
Required equipment:
A cigarette lighter plug with cable
A USB Extention Lead
The USB Lead that came with the eee Tablet
-------------
1) Strip the USB Extention Lead and the Cigarete Lighter Plug lead.
2) Connect the Red and Black wires Accordingly
3) Plug in the USB Lead that came with the eee Tablet - and away you go?
I would love to have a car charger for this device - so if this works, I'll be one happy bloke.
Seems even simpler than the PC setup. (Less connectors required) - if this is indeed correct?

Good guide, I have so many 12v power supplies... just found one that's 2A and wired it up.
frosty5689 said:
What are you talking about?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
krugm0f0 said:
what he said.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol idk but I clicked thanks because he gave me a good laugh. engrish is great
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63Y5XjlO4vk
FISH IN A BAG I THINK BETTER THAN FISH IN A BARREL THAT YOU HAVE JUST MADE SHOOT OF

Macro photo of the Amazon Fire 2015 motherboard

As it's easy to open without damage and I didn't found proper ones yet, here are my photos of the board (minus the two QR-Code Serial numbers)
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

I just added wireless charging, by connecting the following item to the GND and VCHG spots on the mainboard.
It's very thin, and there's enough space inside so that when you close the back there's nothing apparently unusual.

That require soldering?

Yes, the gnd is easy, the vchg needs a steady hand but no specialized equipment.

I wonder if it´s possible to extend the wifi-antenna,
is there anythink like that attached that could be optimized?

I think so, yes, see the BT & Wifi spring connector on the top right of the mainboard, they make contact to pins on the back cover. I think you can easily re-route them to a better antenna. Although I have no idea about the geometry of the actual antenna emebebed into the back cover.

There is a lot of space there. What? A 2980mah battery? Can I replace the mono speaker with another one?

Thanks! Could you also take a picture of the back of the motherboard?

There's indeed a lot of space, and you could replace the speaker easily, the only challenge is finding a better one and I have no experience in that area.
EDIT 1 :
I desoldered the speaker, unhooked the back camera and LCD flat flex to try to flip the mainboard (removing 5 screws), but there's still a flex retaining it. i don't want to force it. but I was able to see the back of the mainboard and apart from the front-facing camera and a few passive components, there's really nothing there.
I took photos of the chip on the top left with the sticky kapton peeled :
It's labeled SSD6250QN4-N527DU
I also took a bicture of the back cover
Notice the NFC tag on the bottom and the BT/Wifi antenna connector on the top.
And the baord with the wireless Qi charger soldered

The SSD6250 is a Capacitive Touch Panel Controller made by Solomon Systech

Qi reciever
Is there any link to buy this Qi reciever?
I took a little research on Amazon but i couldn't find it.

The link is provided a few posts before yours (click on the picture), I bought it from DealExtreme in China (crazy low price, so-so quality and death-slow logistics).

Buy it from anywhere except DealExtreme. They use to be a good store years ago but not anymore. Items you purchase from them may take literally months to even ship. These Qi receivers are available from many places. Try ebay, fasttech, banggood.

does that wireless charging mod still have overcharge protection?

Yes, as it goes directly to the USB connector. It benefits from the same protection as a charge by USB.

Thanks for the photos! Can you get a closer shot of the areas soldered for the qi wireless pad connections?

Sure :
GND can be soldered to almost any golden pad. The photo shows the black wire soldered to the pad, adn the red wire (underneath) shrink-wraped to my purple extension lead that goes to VCHG
The pads are small but not too small (about 1mm) the bodged soldering job comes from the fact that I Soldered/desoldered multple times to make those photos. You can see that we also have access to what seems to be the differient data pair of the USB connector.

How much does the Qi receiver seem to press against the back cover? Was there any actual extra space between the back cover and the battery before adding the Qi receiver? I don't have a fire7 yet so I don't know if there is any give when pressing on the back cover (on a stock fire7) indicating space between cover and battery.
Wondering if it would be worth it to separate the Qi receiver electronics from the coil. Place the coil on the battery & the electronics in the empty space below the battery. They sell a Qi receiver coil (no electronics) for the LG G3 which has flat leads. Ebay link
(the outer coil is nfc)

There's no real empty space, but the Qi receiver I use is really thin (1mm at most). If I didn't knew, I wouldn't notice the small bulge that you can feel when everything is closed. The coil is definitely the thicker part of the Qi receiver on mine, so there would be no benefit for me to separate it. But again everything works happily in it's current form. This receiver is designed to be tightly sandwiched after all. Your LG G3 coil seems especially thin, but as you said it's incomplete, and I don't know about thin Qi managment only board (but in this day an age, I won't doubt you can found one). The other thing to consider is the output power it's able to give. Mine is rated 5Vx1A (although that's a chinese rating, I won't bet my life on it) and it is enough to recharge the Fire (it's detected as charging, it does charge, but I never compared it to a wired charger).

Since there is dead space below the battery in the fire7 I'd just use the receiver electronics from any standard receiver, switching the included coil for the thin LG G3 coil. Place the electronics below the battery and connect to the thin LG G3 coil which could be placed on top of the battery. The efficiency of the thin coil is unknown tho.
Total cost would be ~ $4. A standard Qi receiver is $2 - 3 on ebay & the thin LG G3 coil is $2.

Drivers to calibrate the touch screen / USB IO PCB

Hello there
Are there any drivers that can calibrate a new USB PCB SUB BOARD bought for the nexus 7 2013? I changed mine, as the old one don't charges the tablet, and now everything works except the touch panel that is COMPLETELY un-responsive with the new USB PCB (touch works in old USB PCB).
The part is www - asusparts - eu/en/Asus-60NK0080-SU1020, and on asusparts.eu they say: "*** IMPORTANT *** Please note that this part may have to be calibrated to work with your unit. To do this you will have to send your tablet to an Asus service center for calibration. *** IMPORTANT ***", but I'm serching for a home-made solution. Ideas? Thank you very much for any help.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

If the reason the old board refuses to charge is due to a bad USB connector, the simplest fix would be to hot-air the old connector out and reflow a new connector in. You can get a new connector from DigiKey and other parts distributors for somewhere around $4 in single unit quantities.
If the connector is not the problem, then my next pick would be trying to figure out what has gone wrong on the original PCB. With some luck, it might be a bad solder joint or or something else that is relatively easily fixable.
If it is the power management controller that is busted, then your next simplest option might be to do a chip swap between PCBs. Either put the new PCB's power chip on the old board or put the old board's touch controller on the new board. At least I consider this the easier 'next' option because I might look for a premade software tool for hours and still not find it, spend days or weeks writing my own (assuming I can get the touch controller's specs) or do the chip swap in 30-60 minutes.

TeardownDan said:
If the reason the old board refuses to charge is due to a bad USB connector, the simplest fix would be to hot-air the old connector out and reflow a new connector in. You can get a new connector from DigiKey and other parts distributors for somewhere around $4 in single unit quantities.
If the connector is not the problem, then my next pick would be trying to figure out what has gone wrong on the original PCB. With some luck, it might be a bad solder joint or or something else that is relatively easily fixable.
If it is the power management controller that is busted, then your next simplest option might be to do a chip swap between PCBs. Either put the new PCB's power chip on the old board or put the old board's touch controller on the new board. At least I consider this the easier 'next' option because I might look for a premade software tool for hours and still not find it, spend days or weeks writing my own (assuming I can get the touch controller's specs) or do the chip swap in 30-60 minutes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi TeardownDan, thanks for the reply. The problem is that the old PCB si broken (not only for charging), so the only option is to make the touch of the new one working (I think is a driver\software concern).

What else isn't working with the old PCB other than charging? If all your issues are related to USB connectivity, I would take a very close look at your old board under every angle to see if the connector might be damaged, maybe even use a multimeter to probe for continuity and shorts between the USB PCB traces, USB connector pins and between USB connector pins. If you find an open between the trace and pins or a short between pins or traces, I'd remove the old connector, clean the solder pads and re-test for shorts between pads. If that comes clean, there is a good chance the PCB is fine as far as USB is concerned. Clean the old USB connector's leads, thoroughly examine it for physical damage, test it for shorts/opens if it looks physically fine, re-solder it if everything checks out. If there is any questionable damage, replace it with a fresh connector.
When I cracked the digitizer on my 2012 N7, I damaged the LCD power/data ribbon cable during the replacement process. I ordered a replacement ribbon and the one I originally received had at least one shorted trace from under its 30 pins 0.4mm pitch slim-stack connector. I de-soldered, cleaned and re-soldered, fixed. Sometimes, you get lucky and the best fix is the cheapest - at least when you already have the necessary tools and skills.

TeardownDan said:
What else isn't working with the old PCB other than charging? If all your issues are related to USB connectivity, I would take a very close look at your old board under every angle to see if the connector might be damaged, maybe even use a multimeter to probe for continuity and shorts between the USB PCB traces, USB connector pins and between USB connector pins. If you find an open between the trace and pins or a short between pins or traces, I'd remove the old connector, clean the solder pads and re-test for shorts between pads. If that comes clean, there is a good chance the PCB is fine as far as USB is concerned. Clean the old USB connector's leads, thoroughly examine it for physical damage, test it for shorts/opens if it looks physically fine, re-solder it if everything checks out. If there is any questionable damage, replace it with a fresh connector.
When I cracked the digitizer on my 2012 N7, I damaged the LCD power/data ribbon cable during the replacement process. I ordered a replacement ribbon and the one I originally received had at least one shorted trace from under its 30 pins 0.4mm pitch slim-stack connector. I de-soldered, cleaned and re-soldered, fixed. Sometimes, you get lucky and the best fix is the cheapest - at least when you already have the necessary tools and skills.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree, but sadly........ I damaged for good the ribbon ports in the old PCB USB, and the motherboard>digitalizer link is completely unstable right now. So, i'm stuck with the new one or nothing :angel: