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{MOD}{Guide}Added an HDMI switch to the speaker dock

This mod is designed to add the ability to enable/disable the HDMI output on the speaker dock. The reason i thought of this was because the xoom acts as though it is connected to the TV even when the tv is off, therefore routing audio to the tv and not the speakers​
I apologize in advance for the picture quality as i only have my Thunderbolt to take pictures with. it still did a great job on most macro shots but my lighting wasn't the best.
This mod is not terrible complicated to those who has some experience soldering and wiring.
What you will need:
an exacto knife
soldering gun
fine solder
Torx head bits
about 1.5 feet of fine wire
Step 1.
First we need to take the dock apart. start off peeling the rubber mat off the bottom of the dock. The easiest way to do this is to use a hair dryer and heat the rubber up and peal it off. Set the rubber aside so it the sticky tape doesn't get messed up , you will want to put it back on at the end.
Now that you have the rubber mat off you have access tot he screws that hold the dock together. remove all of these with your torx bit.
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Step 2.
after removing the screws, pull the unit apart. Now you have access to the inside.
You will need to remove the HDMI cable, this is pretty easy so i wont go into detail. here it is removed
Step 3.
Ok next we need to tap into the "Hot Plug Detect" wire in the HDMI cable
Type A receptacle HDMI
Pin 1 TMDS Data2+
Pin 2 TMDS Data2 Shield
Pin 3 TMDS Data2–
Pin 4 TMDS Data1+
Pin 5 TMDS Data1 Shield
Pin 6 TMDS Data1–
Pin 7 TMDS Data0+
Pin 8 TMDS Data0 Shield
Pin 9 TMDS Data0–
Pin 10 TMDS Clock+
Pin 11 TMDS Clock Shield
Pin 12 TMDS Clock–
Pin 13 CEC
Pin 14 Reserved (HDMI 1.0-1.3c), HEC Data- (Optional, HDMI 1.4+ with Ethernet)
Pin 15 SCL (I²C Serial Clock for DDC)
Pin 16 SDA (I²C Serial Data Line for DDC)
Pin 17 DDC/CEC/HEC Ground
Pin 18 +5 V Power (max 50 mA)
Pin 19 Hot Plug Detect (All versions) and HEC Data+ (Optional, HDMI 1.4+ with Ethernet)
Number 19 is the one we are looking for. I did the hard work and located that wire on the cable It is the White Wire.
Strip back the casing very carefully. once you stripped the black wire casing off you will need to cut through the metal mesh shield surrounding the inside wires. i used the exacto knife to cut through this. after you strip all the shielding back you should easily see the white wire. It is very small so this is where soldering experience comes it handy. cut the wire and VERY carefully strip back a tiny portion of the white casing to expose the wire inside. you'll need to solder one wire to each side as shown below
Step 4.
Set the HDMI cable aside, It's time to mount the switch.
I went to radioshack and bought a 2 pack of switches for $3
As for mounting locations, there was only one spot that i could think to mount it with the tools i had available ( i have no dremmel tool which i'm sure would have made this project easier)
You need to make a hole big enough for your switch. I made my hole with an exacto knife attachment for my solder gun.
Basically i used a hot exacto knife to burn through the back plastic. This is probably one of the toughest parts of this mod.
Next i used Stage 2 epoxy to secure the switch to the plastic . Its a good idea to use something abrasive to scub the plastic so the epoxy can get a good hold on it
Step 5.
Next we need to connect everything together. Reinstall the HDMI cable , and make sure to tape the wires that you soldered to the HDMI detect wire so they are secure and wont come off or touch anything else.
Now you need to connect those wires to your switch. I forgot to get a picture of the wires connected to the switch but all you need to do it solder the wires to any 2 pins that are next to each other
good configs
Pins
1 2 3
Pins
1 2 3
Bad configs
1 2 3
It really doesn't matter which wire goes on which side because all we are basically doing is completing a connection of those 2 wires.
Now in order to route those wires to the switch and gett he while thing to close i had to cut a channel for the wires to sit in
Now tape the wires going to the switch into the channel and put everything back together. Now plug in an HDMI cable and dock your xoom and try it out
Here is how mine came out. All in all im very happy with the results. I wish i could have cut a nicer looking hold but i lacked the proper equipment

Way to go!! Thanks for doing the legwork!!

Very cool mod...thanks for sharing

Sweet!
Thanks for sharing!

Thanks guys. My next mod is Gonna be figuring out how to add a USB port to it.

I would think a wiser mod would be to put that switch inline on the cable. A cable costs a few dollars, so it's OK to stuff it up as well as void it's warranty. Putting in a USB is another story, that would be VERY useful, and I am looking fwd to that. Keep up the good work.

Nice job. And although I kinda agree with putting the switch on an HDMI cable to avoid breaking the dock, I also like it integrated.

Great work on this man, I just got one of these docks today and have been thinking a lot about adding USB OTG, and retaining the functionality of the unit itsself. Did you ever end up getting around to doing that mod ?

Legacystar said:
Thanks guys. My next mod is Gonna be figuring out how to add a USB port to it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very interested in this. I was thinking of a 2-4 port hub would make it wonderful for gaming!

About HDMI Switch
The most professional hdmi switch website is www.hdgenius.com , You can have a look !

I what to no what is in side the usb cord and how the Chords inside the USB connect and what is what

Charger Keeps Burning Out

Does anyone else's charger keep dying/burning out/burning up? I've had my TF since July and after 5 weeks it decided it didn't want to charge anymore, so I sent it to the Asus repair center in Houston, Texas and it came back three weeks later and everything was fine.
I just got my dock two days ago and pretty much had the tablet connected to the dock and the charger connected to the dock for almost all the time I was using it since it was taking forever to charge both batteries. By the end of the first night the tablet was completely charged and the dock went from about 4% to 80% during the whole time I had it charged (but I was using it at 1.4GHz with the screen brightness all the way up). While it was charging the power brick (the actual transformer lol) was getting really hot, almost too hot to touch, but I know those normally get hot when they charge stuff so I didn't think anything of it.
I tried to finish charging it yesterday and noticed that it stopped charging (again). I checked my AC power cables and everything was connected, I re-seated the usb end into the adapter, rebooted the tablet and tried connecting the charger to both the tablet and the dock. Neither would charge. I also tried the adapter in different outlets too. I'm not going to send it back to Asus this time since AFAIK there's nothing wrong with the tablet or the dock itself, I'm just going to shell out $40 and get one off of ebay. If that doesn't fix the issue then I'll send it back because I don't want to be without it again for three weeks.
Has anyone else had this happen to them more than once?

Funny you post this. Mine stopped charging last night. I know the cable is good because I can hook it to my computer and transfer data. However plugged into the actual power transformer, it will not charge. Tried many different outlets and did my best to make sure it was not damaged.

I think we need to find a good way to charge it from USB 3.0 ports on the PC by buying a PCI card or whatever, and keep the power brick for traveling
They seem very feeble
I still have my first one but it stinks of burned electricals

It's bull**** that they don't sell the chargers separately and there aren't any third-party chargers available. I think I'm going to try the charge from PC mod for my normal charging duties since my PC is always on and my PSU is 850w.
Why can't we just directly charge from a USB 3.0 port (or two of them for that matter with a y-cable like they do for portable HDDs)? I may have to rig something up with the help of my father who's an electrician

magicdave26 said:
I think we need to find a good way to charge it from USB 3.0 ports on the PC by buying a PCI card or whatever, and keep the power brick for traveling
They seem very feeble
I still have my first one but it stinks of burned electricals
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The USB 3.0 port on a pc will not charge unless you want to leave it overnight turned off. The power connector/connector on the TF is a physical USB 3.0 connector, BUT not an electrical 3.0 connector.

If it's not an electrical connector (odd thing to call it since these run off electricity no matter how you spin it, but I know what you mean ) then how does it get charged using the power brick? Are there leads in the cable that are specifically for power and not for transmitting data (meaning they don't connect to anything in a USB3 port on your PC)?

I was able to fix mine by throwing my power brick into the freezer for about a half hour or so. I followed this thread.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1284303
I was about 1 click away from buying a universal Dynex one that is on amazon and then read around, so far so good. Hope it works for you.

I just made my own PC charger and so far so good, I didn't even have to buy anything!
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brando56894 said:
If it's not an electrical connector (odd thing to call it since these run off electricity no matter how you spin it, but I know what you mean ) then how does it get charged using the power brick? Are there leads in the cable that are specifically for power and not for transmitting data (meaning they don't connect to anything in a USB3 port on your PC)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Both usb 2.0 and 3.0 have one 5v power and gnd line with limited current capability. 2.0 has one pair of data lines. 3.0 has two pair of data lines. The TF power cord is essentially a 3.0 cable with coductor # 7 ( part of a data pair in 3.0) used to sense a gnd signal from the tablet to tell the power brick to output 15V on the normal 5v line. If the brick does not see the gnd on pin7, the 5v line only outputs 5v. This is why a 2.0 usb extension will not work.There is no conductor 7. Best bet buy the dynex video camera adapter and set itt for 15v to the usb connector.

Looking for low profile microusb connector

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Basically, I'm looking for something like the connector on the left. That's a Powerskin, http://www.power-skin.com/sensation-battery-case.php
I ordered a few different connectors, and they're all about the same as the one pictured on the right. Notice it protrudes around twice as much as the Powerskin one.
It would be ideal if the cord could exit the connector pointed up, like in this picture:
Not too picky about that part though.. And when it comes down to it, I'd probably end up having to buy the connector and solder on a "cord" myself.
Basically, I'm looking for something that left on the phone fulltime, and fit within a conventional silicone/tpu/etc case. Specifically, I'm working with the Nexus 4, which has the microusb port on the bottom, turned 180' from what you'd expect. I'm hoping to be solder on a flat ribbon cable that could wrap around to the back of the phone where it'd be connected to say a battery or microsd adapter.
Thanks

Same
Looking for the same fix

RE: Looking for micro-usb connector
I have a couple ideas that might help.
First Idea --
If I understand what you want correctly, then perhaps the full-size USB to micro-USB cable from Verizon would be a possibility.
I picked up mine at a plain-jane Verizon store. It was around $20, if I remember right. I use it all the time.
I've run into cables that resemble micro-usb, but are much thicker, and don't fit the very tight space in the Droid4 I have.
For a right angle turn, you may need to disassemble the two plastic shells that encase the wire and connector, and turn them 90 degrees. You'll want a good Exacto-knife, probably a vise to clamp it, and *patience*. It's possible that its plastic shells are glued together, in which case I would try alcohol, then acetone, as solvents. Go real easy with the acetone, you don't want the connector's internal plastic to melt!
Let me know if you'd like a picture of my cable to see if it's what you need.
Second idea:
You may be able to pick up something like this over at Radio Shack; they have a surprising amount of power supplies for a whole lot of things. You'll have to strip it down to get to the inner pins, depending on how it's wired. Also try their website; they have a bunch of stuff there which any dealer can order in.
I hope this helps,
Dave

Hi,
I'm bumping this thread because I'm also looking for the same very low profile micro usb connector. All the standard connectors apply too much stress on the plug.
The best I could find are these:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/go...its-perfectly-nexus-7-32gb-2.html#post2720135
available here:
http://www.amazon.com/Paulm-Micro-U...614&sr=1-1&keywords=Micro+USB+Specialty+Cable
But It's still bigger than the the powerskin angled one.
Redge

I have been looking for the same thing. I need a micro usb with low profile so that I could use it in my tablet while its in my keyboard case.
I did found myself an OTG angled adapter that was the best option I could find at the time, but I think it still builds almost 15mm outside the bottom of the tablet. The Bobjgear looks a bit better, but I still think it should be possible to make them much smaller..
Edit: I just ordered this one from ebay. Not as low profile as I could wish, but better than the one I have now.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261206091237

Years later, it looks like there's finally something on the market that can be used. See this thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/zen...ion-thread-t3113608/post61193339#post61193339
Stolen picture:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HI8JYFE
Unfortunately, some of the pictures show it only having the power leads (would be enough for 500ma usb charging but not good enough for use as an actual usb cable).
One of the pictures does show it having all the pins though.
There are higher ma versions which would suggest that it might have the data leads (or it's just shorted directly in the plug itself which would again be useless)

It's 4 months too late probably. For anyone else looking for a solution simply search AliExpress.com for "micro usb right angle plug", stick with free shipping/+95% Approval stores and you'll be fine.

ziddey said:
Years later, it looks like there's finally something on the market that can be used. See this thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/zen...ion-thread-t3113608/post61193339#post61193339
Stolen picture:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HI8JYFE
Unfortunately, some of the pictures show it only having the power leads (would be enough for 500ma usb charging but not good enough for use as an actual usb cable).
One of the pictures does show it having all the pins though.
There are higher ma versions which would suggest that it might have the data leads (or it's just shorted directly in the plug itself which would again be useless)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm still looking for cable like this that is USB A to micro USB B, having a hell of a time finding one...

Also looking for a charging cable like the picture above ..
I guess only thing to do is order one of those QI coils and cut off the connector part ...

I found them, took me forever, but I ordered a bunch of these online from a company in the US, got them 2 days later in the mail...
I would post the link, but it wont let me until i have 10 posts. The website name is simply "newark" (com domain). Search "USB3150-30-075-A" micro usb plug male, and you willl find them.
Enjoy.

Also looking for a charging cable like the picture above

Ductit said:
I found them, took me forever, but I ordered a bunch of these online from a company in the US, got them 2 days later in the mail...
I would post the link, but it wont let me until i have 10 posts. The website name is simply "newark" (com domain). Search "USB3150-30-075-A" micro usb plug male, and you willl find them.
Enjoy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thats just the connector, you would have to solder the cable.

Also in need of this! Just like they have for the iPhone:
To hide the cable.

Hey guys,
I'm also looking for low profile microUSB power cables for years now... Best source I found so far is this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/32788021258.html (First attachment, top connector)
However, you must be aware that there are different styles of connectors out there. Most of these Qi charger receiver plugs only break out Vcc and GND. So they are only suitable for charging, not for OTG devices.
Some of these have the D+/D- lines floating, which means that USB compliant devices won't charge with more than 500mA. Some better ones have D+/D- lines shorted, which allows higher charging current.
The first attached picture shows two connectors I got so far. They were supplied with the identical Qi receiver, just the sellers and buying time were different. The top connector is the better one, it has D+/D- pins shorted and has a more durable (but glued) connection to the ribbon cable.
The bottom one has D+/D- pins floating (limits charging to 500mA) and has a crimped on metallic back. This can be removed and the connector can be desoldered from the ribbon cable. The connector itsself creaks out all 5 pins and may be soldered to a different PCB/ribbon cable. I don't have a specific seller for this one, I bought it about a year ago...
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/32631944019.html
Just looking at the pictures, this one may only have Vcc and GND pins physically be present in the connector.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/32782164868.html
Also just referring to the picture, this one might break out also D+/D- pins (also 2nd attachment). It still might not be suitable for OTG operation because it doesn't break out the ID pin, which would have to be connected to GND for OTG operation.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/32789350754.html
USB-C Version.
The USB3150-30-075-A is not bad either, but it requires you to do your own ribbon cable / pcb to use it...

https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Micr...gree-Vertical-5-Pin-for-PCB/32806992515.html?

Nexus 7 power issues (in Car)

Ok, I have a Nexus 7 2012 with Timur's kernel for USB otg.
I have connected a USB-hub to the tablet and a harddrive to the hub:
Also I use a 5A psu to power the devices.
This is how my psu case looks btw:
http://www.diskusjon.no/uploads/monthly_08_2014/post-74970-0-45943400-1409441424.jpg
In the Car:
http://www.diskusjon.no/uploads/monthly_08_2014/post-74970-0-65076400-1409441702.jpg
anyway to the case:
the tablet getting power, but I have a problem with it often uses more power than it charge, and so goes the power level down like 90%, 89%, 88%....
(With display turned off it's working ok, bur that's not a solution)
Here is the setups I have tryed:
This works (charging up):
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This don't work (charging down):
This don't work (charging down):
Well, it applies generally, sometimes a setup works, and than the nest time the same setup don'y work.
Also, with the browsn arrow, I have tryed the cut the pluss wire (+), charging down, also tryed vcut pluss (+) and minus (-), charging down.
Any suggestions? Starting to get very tired of this problem,'ll never get forward in the project when I keep having problems with charging.
I have considered maybe buying the 2013 version of nexus, perhaps it may have less charging issues?
Anyway, I have seen someone recommends resetting the power input, how do you do that?

Evelen said:
Ok, I have a Nexus 7 2012 with Timur's kernel for USB otg.
I have connected a USB-hub to the tablet and a harddrive to the hub:
Also I use a 5A psu to power the devices.
This is how my psu case looks btw:
http://www.diskusjon.no/uploads/monthly_08_2014/post-74970-0-45943400-1409441424.jpg
In the Car:
http://www.diskusjon.no/uploads/monthly_08_2014/post-74970-0-65076400-1409441702.jpg
anyway to the case:
the tablet getting power, but I have a problem with it often uses more power than it charge, and so goes the power level down like 90%, 89%, 88%....
(With display turned off it's working ok, bur that's not a solution)
Here is the setups I have tryed:
This works (charging up):
View attachment 2929547
This don't work (charging down):
View attachment 2929548
This don't work (charging down):
View attachment 2929549
Well, it applies generally, sometimes a setup works, and than the nest time the same setup don'y work.
Also, with the browsn arrow, I have tryed the cut the pluss wire (+), charging down, also tryed vcut pluss (+) and minus (-), charging down.
Any suggestions? Starting to get very tired of this problem,'ll never get forward in the project when I keep having problems with charging.
I have considered maybe buying the 2013 version of nexus, perhaps it may have less charging issues?
Anyway, I have seen someone recommends resetting the power input, how do you do that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What kind of usb cable and how long are you running from your power supply to your tablet and hub.
Most usb cables have too small of wire for the power. They are supposed to handle only 500 ma. You need to find some usb cables with heavier wire for the power leads and keep them as short as possible.
I have a gps speedo app that is a real power hog and with the stock cable would discharge with the charger plugged in.
I replaced it with a 3ft cable with larger power wires and then it would keep the battery at a plus charging rate.
It also made the charging rate faster when the tablet was off.
What I would do is measure the voltage right at the plugs going into your devices and see what it actually is
Hope this helps.

Old Guy said:
What kind of usb cable and how long are you running from your power supply to your tablet and hub.
Most usb cables have too small of wire for the power. They are supposed to handle only 500 ma. You need to find some usb cables with heavier wire for the power leads and keep them as short as possible.
I have a gps speedo app that is a real power hog and with the stock cable would discharge with the charger plugged in.
I replaced it with a 3ft cable with larger power wires and then it would keep the battery at a plus charging rate.
It also made the charging rate faster when the tablet was off.
What I would do is measure the voltage right at the plugs going into your devices and see what it actually is
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess I have to set my multimeter to "volt" and mesure between + and - on the cable?
Anyway, I use a USB-Ysplit cable I bought from another user on this forum, it's connected direct to the psu, so it ca 10cm.
casble from hub ti nexus is maybe 1-1,5 meters, the hub's powercable is (when in use 1,5-2m).

ok, I've done some volt readings.
Unfortunately I did not measured the micro usb because this is so extremely small.
Measuring 1:
Measuring 2:
Measuring 3:
Measuring 4:
Measuring 5:
Measuring 6:
Measuring 7:
Does this look alright ?, or is there something wrong?

Evelen said:
ok, I've done some volt readings.
Unfortunately I did not measured the micro usb because this is so extremely small.
Measuring 1:
Measuring 2:
Measuring 3:
Measuring 4:
Measuring 5:
Measuring 6:
Measuring 7:
Does this look alright ?, or is there something wrong?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need to measure the voltage right at the plug going to the tablet and any other devices with your tablet on and charging and running everything that is drawing power.
Just measuring at the end of your usb plugs with nothing attached is not going to tell you anything because there is no load on the power supplies.
To measure right at the plug, remove the sheath around the cable right at the mini plug and expose the wires inside. Skin back the red and black wires and measure the voltage with your system fully loaded.If you are not getting a full 5volts, you are getting a voltage drop in your cables.
The power supplies you are using should have no problems outputing enough voltage and amps.

I heard that the variable voltage between the power supplys could be the problem.
I tried stuffing both usb cabels in the same powersupply.
Works 100%: D: D
View attachment 2938534
EDIT: (Look away from the voltmeter and the noted volts at the last picture. I forgot to edit it away.)

9th GEN fire tablet harded wired power

I am running a 7", 9th gen fire as a carplay head unit in my car. I have root edit and have the software running well. To run carplay on the tablet I need to use an OTG cable and that means I can not charge it and the 7" struggles to make it through even half a day on battery.
My goal would be to feed the tablet power when I have the car on so the screen would stay awake and when I remove the power it would allow the tablet to sleep.
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!
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tripslip said:
I am running a 7", 9th gen fire as a carplay head unit in my car. I have root edit and have the software running well. To run carplay on the tablet I need to use an OTG cable and that means I can not charge it and the 7" struggles to make it through even half a day on battery.
My goal would be to feed the tablet power when I have the car on so the screen would stay awake and when I remove the power it would allow the tablet to sleep.
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They have otg Y splitters. That allow USB port and charger port to both connect.
This link is just first example I found on Amazon.
AuviPal 2-in-1 Micro USB Cable (OTG Cable + Power Cable) - 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FY9Z9GD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GrHGDbAY38YB7

should have mentioned...
Thanks mrmazak, I guess I should have mentioned that I have tried 2 different Y adapters. An OTG data/power adapter and a USB A type with an OTG adapter. Both did either power or data, but never both at the same time.

tripslip said:
Thanks mrmazak, I guess I should have mentioned that I have tried 2 different Y adapters. An OTG data/power adapter and a USB A type with an OTG adapter. Both did either power or data, but never both at the same time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Been a recurring question on various generations of Amazon hardware dating back 5+ years. I have yet to hear of a solution (aside from serious hacks) that permitted charging and data flow via the USB port.

Anyone wanna take a swing at this?
I think I may have been a little too vague in my goal So I'll try again...
HARD WIRE charging or power to the battery straight into the fire without going through the micro USB. I would even run it without a battery if I could figure out the wiring.
Prefer to "trick" the fire into thinking it is being charged so I could use the "Stay awake while charging" feature in android.
The dongle I am using seems to ONLY work through micro USB using an OTG. I have a RPi and and Odroid I have been plating with but the fire seems to work just a bit better with things like Auto Dimming and Bluetooth working all the time.
Any help would be very appreciated!
I cant post an image yet but heres a link to a pic of the guts "https://ibb.co/XzT7C4g" Hopefully this works
I cant seem to post an image yet but here is a link to a pic of the guts of the fire...
https://ibb.co/XzT7C4g

tripslip said:
I think I may have been a little too vague in my goal So I'll try again...
HARD WIRE charging or power to the battery straight into the fire without going through the micro USB. I would even run it without a battery if I could figure out the wiring.
Prefer to "trick" the fire into thinking it is being charged so I could use the "Stay awake while charging" feature in android.
The dongle I am using seems to ONLY work through micro USB using an OTG. I have a RPi and and Odroid I have been plating with but the fire seems to work just a bit better with things like Auto Dimming and Bluetooth working all the time.
Any help would be very appreciated!
I cant post an image yet but heres a link to a pic of the guts "https://ibb.co/XzT7C4g" Hopefully this works
I cant seem to post an image yet but here is a link to a pic of the guts of the fire...
https://ibb.co/XzT7C4g
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As long as you are willing to try direct hardware connection.
Open the cover and measure the battery voltage when device is full.
Then get an adjustable dc-dc regulator, set it to the measured voltage. Connect it in place of the battery. See if it turns on.
Amazon sells small drok regulators around $15. If I recall correctly
Power Supply Module, DROK DC Converter 5.3V-32V to 1.2V-32V Step Down Voltage Regulator 12A LCD Volt Transformer 160W CC CV Buck Converter Reducer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078Q1624B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qo2HDbCB338YQ

Thats the direction!
mrmazak said:
As long as you are willing to try direct hardware connection.
Open the cover and measure the battery voltage when device is full.
Then get an adjustable dc-dc regulator, set it to the measured voltage. Connect it in place of the battery. See if it turns on.
Amazon sells small drok regulators around $15. If I recall correctly
Power Supply Module, DROK DC Converter 5.3V-32V to 1.2V-32V Step Down Voltage Regulator 12A LCD Volt Transformer 160W CC CV Buck Converter Reducer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078Q1624B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qo2HDbCB338YQ
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks mrmazak.
I was trying to tap straight into the power but I could not figure out the correct wiring. There are 6 wires coming off the battery that go to the same connector on the main board. My gut says that they used more, smaller wires to handle the amperage that would come from a heavier gauge wire. This is to make it slimmer I would think.
I keep trying to post a pic to show the battery connection but I think, since I'm pretty new I am not allowed yet. I will try below by replacing the dots with spaces.
https //ibb co/XzT7C4g (add colon after https and add a dot after ibb and remove spaces. Sorry to be so cryptic lol)