Database Users

Having a problem with a USB Car Charger?

I bought one of these on eBay thinking that I was a genius.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180399428266#ht_867wt_1132
Input: DC12V-24V
Output: DC5.0v/500mA
You can use it in car to charger any devices(for example,many mp3,mp4,mp5,cell phone) with a standard USB2.0 port.
Before you bid,you should make sure that is what you want.Thank you very much.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It doesn't seem like it's keeping my phone charged, sometimes it seems like it runs off of the car's power, but I never seem to have it charge.
It charges my MP3 player just fine.
Is it an issue with my ROM, the cable, the adapter?
Anybody with knowledge on this subject would be appreciated.
Thanks so much!

that will work.. to charge the phone real slowly.. unless you using wifi or 3g. then just like standard usb, 500mAh is going to have a hard time keeping up with the drain. Screen off, 3g off, wifi off it'll still charge just not as fast as the OEM charger.
The phone's OEM charger is actually 1Ah, so basically twice the juice.
edit: I use my old motorola car charger, and just like your saying, it takes me 20 minutes in standby to gain 4% charge. Lock screen should say it's charging and what the battery % is.

Ah, then I need to get a new charger.
When I search for "usb car 1Ah" I get no results.
I like the USB charger because it allows me to use the splitter.
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That way I can plug in the audio into my car and keep it charged. (Except it's not charging. )
What's my best route to go?

use this one:

I am not sure what a different splitter will do for you. However I searched and found all kinds of 1000mA car chargers.
http://www.meritline.com/square-usb-car-charger-black-938---p-28879.aspx?source=fghdac
Here is one that is cig adapter to USB...
http://www.sourcingmap.com/3in1-universal-usb-car-charger-kit-for-mobile-phone-p-35405.html
http://www.bedoxinc.com/12vdcauplto5.html
My search was: usb car charger 1000ma
Edit:
That was a Google product search.

The cig to usb are always the best, they seem to last a lot longer too (more durable). I always seem to break the regular ones after a few months using them.

Note to people;
A != Ah
Ah = Amp HOUR
A = Amp
1 amp for 1 hour = 1 Ah.
An amp is the INSTANTANEOUS current.
An amp hour is the TOTAL CHARGE TRANSFERRED over a period of time.

What about a 2000mA USB charger?
Is there an amount that will be too much and break the phone?

livejamie said:
What about a 2000mA USB charger?
Is there an amount that will be too much and break the phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. The phone will only pull as many amps as it needs.
However, if you do get too crazy with amperage, I suppose it would be possible to blow a fuse in your car if you *do* ever charge/power something that can max the amperage out. It would depend on what else is drawing current on the fuse that your cig lighter is on and what the size of the fuse is. You could use a multimeter to measure the amperage draw while everything on the cig. lighter fuse is running to see how much more amps you could use before causing the fuse to blow. Check your car manual for the info on what is running on the same circuit as the cig. lighter.

I wouldn't try to push too much power into the phone than what the phone is rated, you could risk damaging the phone and/or the battery. IMO its not worth the risk.

phatmanxxl said:
I wouldn't try to push too much power into the phone than what the phone is rated, you could risk damaging the phone and/or the battery. IMO its not worth the risk.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The cigarette adapter does not "push" the charge into the phone. The phone draws the current that it needs and the rest is unused. Check out "Ohm's Law."
V=IR
5v = 1000mA x 5ohms
The resistance is fixed, and the voltage is regulated. Therefore the current cannot go over 1000mA.
However, if you were to get a 6v/2000mA charger, the phone would attempt to draw 1200mA and possibly fry itself.
6v = 1200mA x 5ohms
With that said, the 5v/1000mA charger is like a double safety. Taking away the max mA draw safety won't cause issues, unless something goes wrong in the voltage regulation process.
For maximum protection 5v/1000mA is the recommended charger.

Thanks for the help everybody!

Charger Keeps Burning Out

Does anyone else's charger keep dying/burning out/burning up? I've had my TF since July and after 5 weeks it decided it didn't want to charge anymore, so I sent it to the Asus repair center in Houston, Texas and it came back three weeks later and everything was fine.
I just got my dock two days ago and pretty much had the tablet connected to the dock and the charger connected to the dock for almost all the time I was using it since it was taking forever to charge both batteries. By the end of the first night the tablet was completely charged and the dock went from about 4% to 80% during the whole time I had it charged (but I was using it at 1.4GHz with the screen brightness all the way up). While it was charging the power brick (the actual transformer lol) was getting really hot, almost too hot to touch, but I know those normally get hot when they charge stuff so I didn't think anything of it.
I tried to finish charging it yesterday and noticed that it stopped charging (again). I checked my AC power cables and everything was connected, I re-seated the usb end into the adapter, rebooted the tablet and tried connecting the charger to both the tablet and the dock. Neither would charge. I also tried the adapter in different outlets too. I'm not going to send it back to Asus this time since AFAIK there's nothing wrong with the tablet or the dock itself, I'm just going to shell out $40 and get one off of ebay. If that doesn't fix the issue then I'll send it back because I don't want to be without it again for three weeks.
Has anyone else had this happen to them more than once?

Funny you post this. Mine stopped charging last night. I know the cable is good because I can hook it to my computer and transfer data. However plugged into the actual power transformer, it will not charge. Tried many different outlets and did my best to make sure it was not damaged.

I think we need to find a good way to charge it from USB 3.0 ports on the PC by buying a PCI card or whatever, and keep the power brick for traveling
They seem very feeble
I still have my first one but it stinks of burned electricals

It's bull**** that they don't sell the chargers separately and there aren't any third-party chargers available. I think I'm going to try the charge from PC mod for my normal charging duties since my PC is always on and my PSU is 850w.
Why can't we just directly charge from a USB 3.0 port (or two of them for that matter with a y-cable like they do for portable HDDs)? I may have to rig something up with the help of my father who's an electrician

magicdave26 said:
I think we need to find a good way to charge it from USB 3.0 ports on the PC by buying a PCI card or whatever, and keep the power brick for traveling
They seem very feeble
I still have my first one but it stinks of burned electricals
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The USB 3.0 port on a pc will not charge unless you want to leave it overnight turned off. The power connector/connector on the TF is a physical USB 3.0 connector, BUT not an electrical 3.0 connector.

If it's not an electrical connector (odd thing to call it since these run off electricity no matter how you spin it, but I know what you mean ) then how does it get charged using the power brick? Are there leads in the cable that are specifically for power and not for transmitting data (meaning they don't connect to anything in a USB3 port on your PC)?

I was able to fix mine by throwing my power brick into the freezer for about a half hour or so. I followed this thread.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1284303
I was about 1 click away from buying a universal Dynex one that is on amazon and then read around, so far so good. Hope it works for you.

I just made my own PC charger and so far so good, I didn't even have to buy anything!
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brando56894 said:
If it's not an electrical connector (odd thing to call it since these run off electricity no matter how you spin it, but I know what you mean ) then how does it get charged using the power brick? Are there leads in the cable that are specifically for power and not for transmitting data (meaning they don't connect to anything in a USB3 port on your PC)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Both usb 2.0 and 3.0 have one 5v power and gnd line with limited current capability. 2.0 has one pair of data lines. 3.0 has two pair of data lines. The TF power cord is essentially a 3.0 cable with coductor # 7 ( part of a data pair in 3.0) used to sense a gnd signal from the tablet to tell the power brick to output 15V on the normal 5v line. If the brick does not see the gnd on pin7, the 5v line only outputs 5v. This is why a 2.0 usb extension will not work.There is no conductor 7. Best bet buy the dynex video camera adapter and set itt for 15v to the usb connector.

Car charging with Ignition off, any suggestions?

I have a Nexus 7 installed in-dash, but I've already read everyone else's builds and I would really hate to install an inverter just to charge my car entertainment. So what I do is I use a 2.1A car charger that somehow isn't able to charge to Nexus 7 while the screen is on, it merely just keeps the power constant so it doesn't drain, and is just an indicator of whether to turn on or not. I constantly have to deal with recharging it by AC power in the garage and that's getting tiring.
So here's my schematic,
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When the car is shut off, the ignition switch would be set to open, and then from there I can set the mechanical switch to close so it can charge my Nexus 7 while I'm out of the car, of course I would turn the screen off. I did the math, and this shouldn't be able to kill a whole car battery in a week, I'm just worried about fire or something that may or may not work or any fire hazards, does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks!

Rule #1: Never connect power sources directly in parallel. They will fight.
It's not clear from your explanation if the problem is with your charger or the Nexus' reluctance to accept a lot of current.
You may have to short or bias the data lines on the USB to make the Nexus use all the current available.
I'd be interested to know some actual current measurements, peak internal current demand on the Nexus, peak charging current.
If I were making a permanently installed tablet, I think that I would just buy a buck converter from ebay, set it on 4V and wire it directly into where the battery was.

So the wiring schematic is bad news?
Well that's a shame, I'll take amp readings tomorrow, I'll grab an amp meter and cut up the USB extension.
You see here's how the power goes:
Indicator mode: Monoprice 2.1A Charger -> USB Ext 3ft -> Original Nexus 7 cable -> Angle Connector USB extension -> Nexus 7
Charge Mode: Original Nexus 7 Charger 2.0A -> USB Ext 3ft. -> Original Nexus 7 cable -> Angle Connector USB extension -> Nexus 7.
Test 1: Indicator Mode
Test 2: Charge Mode
Test 3: Indicator Mode with Data Wires shortened at the 3ft USB ext
Test 4: Charge Mode with Data Wires shortened at the 3ft USB ext.
You just want amperage readings on these right?
I know the set up for the wiring is ridiculous and may cause a lot of resistance, but it charges up just fine with the original AC charger, and even an iPad's AC charger. I'm not sure what the problem is but I'll come back on Thursday afternoon with my results.

There's nothing special about the AC charger.
The reason that the AC charger can charge is because the display is off.
With all systems running full tilt the charger may not be able to keep up.
Measurements on this can be difficult.
The problem is, from the outside you are getting a limited view.
Let's say you plug a cell phone into a charger and measure 500 mA.
You could turn on the display, GPS and the most processor intensive thing and the current might still read 500 mA.
You don't really know how much slack the battery is taking up.
Is this a dedicated, hard-wired thing for your car?

Yes, it's a dedicated set up for my car.
Well you see here's the thing, I've tested it a long time ago, and charging by the AC charger for the Nexus or the iPad under full load of processor intensive task + screen on full brightness on the display it still charged a little, yes the wiring was the same extended wiring. From this data I assumed that using any 2.1A car charger would do the same, but I was wrong, none of the car chargers even put a single percentage of charge on the tablet even when all it was doing is standing by with the screen on.

Not exactly sure what you are trying to do with the diagram in the OP. If this is a hard wired installation you could just grab a 12v to 5v converter module that puts out enough current. I'd suggest using Battery Monitor Widget or something similar while testing since that can show the current draw/charge on your device so you can see what its charging at. Or better yet a ammeter/multimeter that can measure current to see what its drawing. You may have to short the data pins on your microUSB cable to get it charging at a higher rate.
As far as it killing your car battery the device won't be drawing much current once its charged. Personally I'd be more worried about keeping it in a hot car for the sake of the tablet battery.

spunker88 said:
Not exactly sure what you are trying to do with the diagram in the OP. If this is a hard wired installation you could just grab a 12v to 5v converter module that puts out enough current. I'd suggest using Battery Monitor Widget or something similar while testing since that can show the current draw/charge on your device so you can see what its charging at. Or better yet a ammeter/multimeter that can measure current to see what its drawing. You may have to short the data pins on your microUSB cable to get it charging at a higher rate.
As far as it killing your car battery the device won't be drawing much current once its charged. Personally I'd be more worried about keeping it in a hot car for the sake of the tablet battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have any suggestions for the 12v to 5v converter module?
I'm willing to cut up one of the USB extensions to see the amperage tonight, so I'll post my findings then.
I live in Texas, and the heat's been up to 115 F at one point in the summer. I've had it installed in my car before summer started this year and there hasn't been any damage at all to the tablet. Maybe the occasional hiccup when the tablet doesn't want to turn the screen on when it realizes it has power, but other than that, it's been fully operational.

[How to] Get AC charging speed in your car

This post is dedicated for those who frequently use their beloved smartphone/tablet in the car for navigation or music.
Bored to see your device still loosing battery even if plugged in the car? The charging speed is way too slow?
Seems it gets less juice than it consumes for GPS ?
We will discuss why and how to trick this.
(I know it is already a well known subject but who knows, maybe it will help someone.)
Why ?
The low speed battery charge is due to the fact modern devices control themselves AC power they need for charging.
The device see two possible states when pluggin the microUSB connector :
- The USB plug is used for data connexion (with a Computer, USB Stick or any OTG accessory)
- The USB plug is used for charging only
Here is a wiring diagram of microUSB/USB cable (non-OTG) :
View attachment 2852878
To know in which state he actualy is, the device test the two data connectors D+ and D-.
If there is no connection between them, the devices assumes it is plugged on a computer. Then it limits its own consumption for charge to 500mA. This is how much a standard USB port is able to provide on a computer.
But if the two data pins are connected together, the devices believe he is plugged on standard AC and get the power it really need to charge efficiently (1A, 2A,... depends of the device).
How ?
WARNING
Do NOT plug this connector in your computer.
Do NOT use it for another usage than the usage I describe.
It might destroy the planet (almost)​Assuming you don't want to destroy a connexion cable, there is a simple trick to achieve the very same result using a simple USB Female to USB Male Adapter.
View attachment 2852841
Why such a connector have been created is quite weird to me but it serves our purpose so let's get a cheap one on ebay
For the modding you will need
A sharp knife / cutter / scalpel
Soldering tools (iron, materials)
Cyanolit glue (or any glue you likes)
5 min
First, use the knife to open the connector form the side. Do it gently since you will reassemble it the same way in the end.
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Use the knife again to remove some of the white plastic to reach the internal connector pins
Here you can see the two pins are unconnected
Use the soldering kit you have to connect the two central pins
(In fact the USB specification mention a 200 Ohm resistance. Mine works without it).
Beware for the soldering not to touch the external part of the connector
Verify the connection between D- and D+ through the connector
Reassemble the connector with the glue
Result
You will get "AC charging" on your device while using this connector between your car power supply and the charging cable of your device.
Before / After
Corrections and advices are of course welcome
Narkoa

Yep or if you have an s3 or s2 get siyah kernel then install stweaks and change charging speed on USB plug
Sent from my GT-I9300 using XDA Free mobile app

thatonerootuser said:
Yep or if you have an s3 or s2 get siyah kernel then install stweaks and change charging speed on USB plug
Sent from my GT-I9300 using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Input: DC 12-24V and Output: DC 5.0V/1000mA . Nealy 1A output current is enough for most cell phones
Edit. Sorry the image is a little bit large . I dont' know how to limit it's display width on forum thread.

SallyChen said:
Input: DC 12-24V and Output: DC 5.0V/1000mA . Nealy 1A output current is enough for most cell phones
Edit. Sorry the image is a little bit large . I dont' know how to limit it's display width on forum thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
very interesting trick...

9th GEN fire tablet harded wired power

I am running a 7", 9th gen fire as a carplay head unit in my car. I have root edit and have the software running well. To run carplay on the tablet I need to use an OTG cable and that means I can not charge it and the 7" struggles to make it through even half a day on battery.
My goal would be to feed the tablet power when I have the car on so the screen would stay awake and when I remove the power it would allow the tablet to sleep.
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!
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tripslip said:
I am running a 7", 9th gen fire as a carplay head unit in my car. I have root edit and have the software running well. To run carplay on the tablet I need to use an OTG cable and that means I can not charge it and the 7" struggles to make it through even half a day on battery.
My goal would be to feed the tablet power when I have the car on so the screen would stay awake and when I remove the power it would allow the tablet to sleep.
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They have otg Y splitters. That allow USB port and charger port to both connect.
This link is just first example I found on Amazon.
AuviPal 2-in-1 Micro USB Cable (OTG Cable + Power Cable) - 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FY9Z9GD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GrHGDbAY38YB7

should have mentioned...
Thanks mrmazak, I guess I should have mentioned that I have tried 2 different Y adapters. An OTG data/power adapter and a USB A type with an OTG adapter. Both did either power or data, but never both at the same time.

tripslip said:
Thanks mrmazak, I guess I should have mentioned that I have tried 2 different Y adapters. An OTG data/power adapter and a USB A type with an OTG adapter. Both did either power or data, but never both at the same time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Been a recurring question on various generations of Amazon hardware dating back 5+ years. I have yet to hear of a solution (aside from serious hacks) that permitted charging and data flow via the USB port.

Anyone wanna take a swing at this?
I think I may have been a little too vague in my goal So I'll try again...
HARD WIRE charging or power to the battery straight into the fire without going through the micro USB. I would even run it without a battery if I could figure out the wiring.
Prefer to "trick" the fire into thinking it is being charged so I could use the "Stay awake while charging" feature in android.
The dongle I am using seems to ONLY work through micro USB using an OTG. I have a RPi and and Odroid I have been plating with but the fire seems to work just a bit better with things like Auto Dimming and Bluetooth working all the time.
Any help would be very appreciated!
I cant post an image yet but heres a link to a pic of the guts "https://ibb.co/XzT7C4g" Hopefully this works
I cant seem to post an image yet but here is a link to a pic of the guts of the fire...
https://ibb.co/XzT7C4g

tripslip said:
I think I may have been a little too vague in my goal So I'll try again...
HARD WIRE charging or power to the battery straight into the fire without going through the micro USB. I would even run it without a battery if I could figure out the wiring.
Prefer to "trick" the fire into thinking it is being charged so I could use the "Stay awake while charging" feature in android.
The dongle I am using seems to ONLY work through micro USB using an OTG. I have a RPi and and Odroid I have been plating with but the fire seems to work just a bit better with things like Auto Dimming and Bluetooth working all the time.
Any help would be very appreciated!
I cant post an image yet but heres a link to a pic of the guts "https://ibb.co/XzT7C4g" Hopefully this works
I cant seem to post an image yet but here is a link to a pic of the guts of the fire...
https://ibb.co/XzT7C4g
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As long as you are willing to try direct hardware connection.
Open the cover and measure the battery voltage when device is full.
Then get an adjustable dc-dc regulator, set it to the measured voltage. Connect it in place of the battery. See if it turns on.
Amazon sells small drok regulators around $15. If I recall correctly
Power Supply Module, DROK DC Converter 5.3V-32V to 1.2V-32V Step Down Voltage Regulator 12A LCD Volt Transformer 160W CC CV Buck Converter Reducer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078Q1624B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qo2HDbCB338YQ

Thats the direction!
mrmazak said:
As long as you are willing to try direct hardware connection.
Open the cover and measure the battery voltage when device is full.
Then get an adjustable dc-dc regulator, set it to the measured voltage. Connect it in place of the battery. See if it turns on.
Amazon sells small drok regulators around $15. If I recall correctly
Power Supply Module, DROK DC Converter 5.3V-32V to 1.2V-32V Step Down Voltage Regulator 12A LCD Volt Transformer 160W CC CV Buck Converter Reducer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078Q1624B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qo2HDbCB338YQ
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks mrmazak.
I was trying to tap straight into the power but I could not figure out the correct wiring. There are 6 wires coming off the battery that go to the same connector on the main board. My gut says that they used more, smaller wires to handle the amperage that would come from a heavier gauge wire. This is to make it slimmer I would think.
I keep trying to post a pic to show the battery connection but I think, since I'm pretty new I am not allowed yet. I will try below by replacing the dots with spaces.
https //ibb co/XzT7C4g (add colon after https and add a dot after ibb and remove spaces. Sorry to be so cryptic lol)