Database Users

Wizard pin out

mini usb pin out
i want to use BT car charger for my wizard

Pinout for Mini USB Connector is:
1: +5v DC
2: Data -
3: Data +
4: GND
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I'm not quite sure what your trying to use to power it but the voltage must be between 4.75 and 5.25V otherwise its gonna get a bit upset!

I want to use BT-338(http://www.globalsat.com.tw/english/products_detail.php?main_id=20&p_id=74) car charger
On AC power supply of this device are writen +5V 1.2A i hope that car charger will be the same voltage?

The car charger will give out the same voltage but I would put a voltmeter across it anyway just to check and also to confirm the polarity as this could well upset the XDA! The highest amperage across a USB bus is (I think!) 500mA but a 1.2A supply will be ok as the device will only pull what it requries. Don't try and power both devices off the same charger though (just checking this isn't what your trying to do) as there won't be enough power to go around.

barnesdmd said:
Don't try and power both devices off the same charger though (just checking this isn't what your trying to do) as there won't be enough power to go around.
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Click to collapse
I was just thinking about doing something like that. How much power does the BT mouse require? Given the XDA can be powered from a standard usb connector it doesn't require more than 500mA. So do you think 700mA aren't enough for BT mouse??

barnesdmd said:
I would put a voltmeter across it anyway just to check and also to confirm the polarity as this could well upset the XDA!
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Click to collapse
yes i will do this
barnesdmd said:
Don't try and power both devices off the same charger though (just checking this isn't what your trying to do) as there won't be enough power to go around.
Click to expand...
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i will use for xda or for gps...

Joschkopf said:
So do you think 700mA aren't enough for BT mouse??
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Click to collapse
I have no idea to be honest! I havn't used it but it would be worth checking before trying!

barnesdmd: thanks working fine

It "should" be fine to power both off a 1.2A supply (although i dont know if the car charger will be able to supply this or not. mains - 5vDC is very different electronics to 12vDC-5vDC). The worst that should happen is that the GPS needs a large power supply, and the voltage supply will drop (what happens if you draw too much current) The Wizard should then just ignore the useless voltage (below 5v) and not be worried by it.
This is all should and not will, i dont know what components are fitted in the Wizard charging & power circuit.
I haven't tested it personally but do have a reasonable knowledge of electrics & electronics

Can anybody here who has a GPS bluetooth mouse have a look on it's specification? There we should see how much power it requires, so we could be sure

Build a charger for your Touch 3G

Hey guys. I have had a few PPCs in the past but the Jade is my first SmartPhone. I like to charge my PPCs in the car as I use them for navigating. I use a universal holder plus I dismantle one of these
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as they are easier to wiggle into any dashboard gaps you might have. They are pretty readily available on eBay, but note that they tend to have pretty low guage wire and aren't configured as twisted pairs so it is pretty hit and miss using it to transmit data but it seems to have no problem transmitting DC current. I have used this for very long trips using devices that pull about 1A of current and the cable doesn't warm up so I presume the resistance must be low enough for charging purposes.
Simply connect the other end to a USB Car Charger and you are nearly ready to go. Connecting it up this way will trigger charging but I suspect the device assumes it is connected to a PC as it turns the screen on when you connect it this way as apposed to the Wall Charger where the screen remains off. Careful using USB Chargers designed for other devices (Ipod etc) as they have configurations which may confuse / damage your device. I found this out the hard way when I connected my Jade to an Ipod USB Car Charger which caused all sorts of grief with an undetectable microSD card, the device refusing to turn off which although is now resolved, I am still uncertain whether I haven't caused some damage
So how do you convince the Jade to charge from your Car Charger like a Wall Charger? Well first thing to be aware of is that devices that implement USB charging have various methods of detecting a connection to a Wall Charger as apposed to a computer. As I have mentioned, the iPod (and my old iPaq) uses a resistor configuration between the Ground, 5V and Data Pins to tell the device that it is connected. Fortunately the Jade is much simpler. I have determined from searching the web plus attacking my Wall Charger with a multimeter that all that is required is that the Data Pins are bridged and that the Metal Socket Surround is connected to the Ground Pin (which it is anyway in most Generic Chargers). All that was involved in mine was opening the Charger, finding the middle data pins on the circuit board and dropping a solder bridge between them. Make sure you buy a good quality USB Car Charger that is easy to dismantle (mine was held together by screws) and can provide at least 1A.
Enjoy

My previous phone was a palm treo pro (htc panther), for which i bought a sprint car charger (micro usb). The first charger that was sent to me was heavily used, so i complained and got a new one. After i returned my treo, i got the jade and decided to sell the new charger and modify the old one (which was working fine, except the connector didnt connect properly) to charge the jade. So i opened it up and soldered the two (+ & -) wires to an old usb extension cable, so that now i have a car plug with and usb(-a) socket slightly standing out. When i connect my mini-usb cable for the jade only the charging led lights up.

What did you do with Data Wires? If you joined them together then you have achieved the same outcome as a solder bridge.

Nothing, i just cut them as short as i could. They dont connect to each other...the outer ground isnt connected, too...

Charger Keeps Burning Out

Does anyone else's charger keep dying/burning out/burning up? I've had my TF since July and after 5 weeks it decided it didn't want to charge anymore, so I sent it to the Asus repair center in Houston, Texas and it came back three weeks later and everything was fine.
I just got my dock two days ago and pretty much had the tablet connected to the dock and the charger connected to the dock for almost all the time I was using it since it was taking forever to charge both batteries. By the end of the first night the tablet was completely charged and the dock went from about 4% to 80% during the whole time I had it charged (but I was using it at 1.4GHz with the screen brightness all the way up). While it was charging the power brick (the actual transformer lol) was getting really hot, almost too hot to touch, but I know those normally get hot when they charge stuff so I didn't think anything of it.
I tried to finish charging it yesterday and noticed that it stopped charging (again). I checked my AC power cables and everything was connected, I re-seated the usb end into the adapter, rebooted the tablet and tried connecting the charger to both the tablet and the dock. Neither would charge. I also tried the adapter in different outlets too. I'm not going to send it back to Asus this time since AFAIK there's nothing wrong with the tablet or the dock itself, I'm just going to shell out $40 and get one off of ebay. If that doesn't fix the issue then I'll send it back because I don't want to be without it again for three weeks.
Has anyone else had this happen to them more than once?

Funny you post this. Mine stopped charging last night. I know the cable is good because I can hook it to my computer and transfer data. However plugged into the actual power transformer, it will not charge. Tried many different outlets and did my best to make sure it was not damaged.

I think we need to find a good way to charge it from USB 3.0 ports on the PC by buying a PCI card or whatever, and keep the power brick for traveling
They seem very feeble
I still have my first one but it stinks of burned electricals

It's bull**** that they don't sell the chargers separately and there aren't any third-party chargers available. I think I'm going to try the charge from PC mod for my normal charging duties since my PC is always on and my PSU is 850w.
Why can't we just directly charge from a USB 3.0 port (or two of them for that matter with a y-cable like they do for portable HDDs)? I may have to rig something up with the help of my father who's an electrician

magicdave26 said:
I think we need to find a good way to charge it from USB 3.0 ports on the PC by buying a PCI card or whatever, and keep the power brick for traveling
They seem very feeble
I still have my first one but it stinks of burned electricals
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The USB 3.0 port on a pc will not charge unless you want to leave it overnight turned off. The power connector/connector on the TF is a physical USB 3.0 connector, BUT not an electrical 3.0 connector.

If it's not an electrical connector (odd thing to call it since these run off electricity no matter how you spin it, but I know what you mean ) then how does it get charged using the power brick? Are there leads in the cable that are specifically for power and not for transmitting data (meaning they don't connect to anything in a USB3 port on your PC)?

I was able to fix mine by throwing my power brick into the freezer for about a half hour or so. I followed this thread.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1284303
I was about 1 click away from buying a universal Dynex one that is on amazon and then read around, so far so good. Hope it works for you.

I just made my own PC charger and so far so good, I didn't even have to buy anything!
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brando56894 said:
If it's not an electrical connector (odd thing to call it since these run off electricity no matter how you spin it, but I know what you mean ) then how does it get charged using the power brick? Are there leads in the cable that are specifically for power and not for transmitting data (meaning they don't connect to anything in a USB3 port on your PC)?
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Both usb 2.0 and 3.0 have one 5v power and gnd line with limited current capability. 2.0 has one pair of data lines. 3.0 has two pair of data lines. The TF power cord is essentially a 3.0 cable with coductor # 7 ( part of a data pair in 3.0) used to sense a gnd signal from the tablet to tell the power brick to output 15V on the normal 5v line. If the brick does not see the gnd on pin7, the 5v line only outputs 5v. This is why a 2.0 usb extension will not work.There is no conductor 7. Best bet buy the dynex video camera adapter and set itt for 15v to the usb connector.

Car charging with Ignition off, any suggestions?

I have a Nexus 7 installed in-dash, but I've already read everyone else's builds and I would really hate to install an inverter just to charge my car entertainment. So what I do is I use a 2.1A car charger that somehow isn't able to charge to Nexus 7 while the screen is on, it merely just keeps the power constant so it doesn't drain, and is just an indicator of whether to turn on or not. I constantly have to deal with recharging it by AC power in the garage and that's getting tiring.
So here's my schematic,
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When the car is shut off, the ignition switch would be set to open, and then from there I can set the mechanical switch to close so it can charge my Nexus 7 while I'm out of the car, of course I would turn the screen off. I did the math, and this shouldn't be able to kill a whole car battery in a week, I'm just worried about fire or something that may or may not work or any fire hazards, does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks!

Rule #1: Never connect power sources directly in parallel. They will fight.
It's not clear from your explanation if the problem is with your charger or the Nexus' reluctance to accept a lot of current.
You may have to short or bias the data lines on the USB to make the Nexus use all the current available.
I'd be interested to know some actual current measurements, peak internal current demand on the Nexus, peak charging current.
If I were making a permanently installed tablet, I think that I would just buy a buck converter from ebay, set it on 4V and wire it directly into where the battery was.

So the wiring schematic is bad news?
Well that's a shame, I'll take amp readings tomorrow, I'll grab an amp meter and cut up the USB extension.
You see here's how the power goes:
Indicator mode: Monoprice 2.1A Charger -> USB Ext 3ft -> Original Nexus 7 cable -> Angle Connector USB extension -> Nexus 7
Charge Mode: Original Nexus 7 Charger 2.0A -> USB Ext 3ft. -> Original Nexus 7 cable -> Angle Connector USB extension -> Nexus 7.
Test 1: Indicator Mode
Test 2: Charge Mode
Test 3: Indicator Mode with Data Wires shortened at the 3ft USB ext
Test 4: Charge Mode with Data Wires shortened at the 3ft USB ext.
You just want amperage readings on these right?
I know the set up for the wiring is ridiculous and may cause a lot of resistance, but it charges up just fine with the original AC charger, and even an iPad's AC charger. I'm not sure what the problem is but I'll come back on Thursday afternoon with my results.

There's nothing special about the AC charger.
The reason that the AC charger can charge is because the display is off.
With all systems running full tilt the charger may not be able to keep up.
Measurements on this can be difficult.
The problem is, from the outside you are getting a limited view.
Let's say you plug a cell phone into a charger and measure 500 mA.
You could turn on the display, GPS and the most processor intensive thing and the current might still read 500 mA.
You don't really know how much slack the battery is taking up.
Is this a dedicated, hard-wired thing for your car?

Yes, it's a dedicated set up for my car.
Well you see here's the thing, I've tested it a long time ago, and charging by the AC charger for the Nexus or the iPad under full load of processor intensive task + screen on full brightness on the display it still charged a little, yes the wiring was the same extended wiring. From this data I assumed that using any 2.1A car charger would do the same, but I was wrong, none of the car chargers even put a single percentage of charge on the tablet even when all it was doing is standing by with the screen on.

Not exactly sure what you are trying to do with the diagram in the OP. If this is a hard wired installation you could just grab a 12v to 5v converter module that puts out enough current. I'd suggest using Battery Monitor Widget or something similar while testing since that can show the current draw/charge on your device so you can see what its charging at. Or better yet a ammeter/multimeter that can measure current to see what its drawing. You may have to short the data pins on your microUSB cable to get it charging at a higher rate.
As far as it killing your car battery the device won't be drawing much current once its charged. Personally I'd be more worried about keeping it in a hot car for the sake of the tablet battery.

spunker88 said:
Not exactly sure what you are trying to do with the diagram in the OP. If this is a hard wired installation you could just grab a 12v to 5v converter module that puts out enough current. I'd suggest using Battery Monitor Widget or something similar while testing since that can show the current draw/charge on your device so you can see what its charging at. Or better yet a ammeter/multimeter that can measure current to see what its drawing. You may have to short the data pins on your microUSB cable to get it charging at a higher rate.
As far as it killing your car battery the device won't be drawing much current once its charged. Personally I'd be more worried about keeping it in a hot car for the sake of the tablet battery.
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Do you have any suggestions for the 12v to 5v converter module?
I'm willing to cut up one of the USB extensions to see the amperage tonight, so I'll post my findings then.
I live in Texas, and the heat's been up to 115 F at one point in the summer. I've had it installed in my car before summer started this year and there hasn't been any damage at all to the tablet. Maybe the occasional hiccup when the tablet doesn't want to turn the screen on when it realizes it has power, but other than that, it's been fully operational.

[Q] Slow charging with usb extender

Hey guys.
I take a usb extender cable with me to the university.
it looks like this one:
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unfortunately, it charges really slow when I use it.
anyone knows the reason?
there are some guides on turning a usb cable to "charge only" cable.
it just doesn't make sense that a cable that IS capable of transferring data (like the stock N4 cable) performs normally, while this one needs to have the data pins shorted to charge normally.
I am running OmniROM with Hellscore kernel and use fast charge without a difference in charging speed.

how long is the cable and what is the ac current on the adapter?, the longer the cable the more resistance (the cable obviously wont be past 1m to matter), you should be using a stronger ac adapter.
if your charging from pc then its going to be worse,

Like the poster above mentioned it's probably due to the extended length causing a higher resistance. I have lots of different ac chargers in my house including one from a Samsung wave 2. It has a pretty long and very thin cable and charging speeds are noticeable slower in comparison to my other ones.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using XDA Free mobile app

thanks for your replies.
I use the stock charger so it's 1.2a 5v.
the extender is 1.5x the size of the stock cable, and it connects to a samsung micro usb cable (which charges just fine on its own) which is 2/3 the size of the stock cable.
doesn't seem like it's too long to me, it's just ~2 times the length of the original cable and it can't handle it?
what am I suppose to do? I need it that long.. should I follow the "charge only usb cable" guide for the extender? or purchase a single longer cable (shouldn't make a difference according to your remarks about resistance).

Well, I'm a carpenter not an electrician but I think you can compensate with a charger with higher output. I don't know what the max is the n4 can handle, though.
Generally this could have different reasons to begin with. For instance there are cables that just suck. Another point is, using your extender you have an extra connection on the way from the charger to your device. Plug connections are often known to cause a loss. And then there's the fact that most extender cables aren't made for charging but for data.
So you see not every USB cable is the same. I have a HTC car charger working really good with all my devices while a no name one I had couldn't even hold up with the drain caused by GPS/BT/display when mounted in my car even though both were specifically made for charging through the car ac.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using XDA Free mobile app

Being data cables they fit the requirements, the nexus 4 charges under 1amp while the phone its based off is higher that explains the charger,
Usb3 cables allow more current upto 900mah apposed to usb2 at 500mah so it should take twice as long to charge or longer if it doesnt break 500mah barrier
Also the wire gauge, cheaper brands will use thinner wires,so a 24gauge will be able to handle 2amps for tablets etc.
A usb3 cable will be better, you can find thin flexible cables that do meet the requirements
http://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Super-Extension-Surrounded-Connector/dp/B00A5321MW