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I don't understand it, the 8525 I have has a blank white screen. I thought the ribbon cable was bad so I ordered a new one, cost me $50, put it in, still the same problem. The motherboard itself is fine, I swapped it into another 8525 and it works with no problems, I swapped a different board into my 8525, and it has the same problem, blank white screen. I checked the LCD and everything, but I don't freakin understand it!! Anyone know what the heck is going on? It's annoying the crap out of me because I can't find the source of the problem.
Have you tried to swap the D-pad controller between those two devices?
shmilson said:
Have you tried to swap the D-pad controller between those two devices?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, haven't tried that....but I completely removed the dpad controller and still had the same problem.
Oh and the dpad IS working because I was able to hard reset the device even though I can't see anything....
Is you're void sticker gone? If not I'd say get AT&T to replace it, that's what I did when I had that problem.
Check our USB port and see if it's shorting anything? That's what happened to me. I go the white screen every I plugged in anything into the USB port.
Dpad
After loosing some screws, the problem got better, but still I have some white screens here and there. The d-pad works intermittently. When on a whitescreen, turning the device of, holding the middle D-pad key (or up together sometimes) and turning it on brings back the screen. That's why I'm suspicious about the d-pad controller. In the meantime I'm waiting for a replacement from cnn.cn and will post my results.
shmilson said:
After loosing some screws, the problem got better, but still I have some white screens here and there. The d-pad works intermittently. When on a whitescreen, turning the device of, holding the middle D-pad key (or up together sometimes) and turning it on brings back the screen. That's why I'm suspicious about the d-pad controller. In the meantime I'm waiting for a replacement from cnn.cn and will post my results.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I notice that the service manual makes a specific point of noting the d-pad connector must be inserted precisely and with no angle. It is a very small connector and has two tiny screws. It does seem this connection is delicate and might become loose if keys on the d-pad are firmly pressed.
Mike
mikechannon said:
I notice that the service manual makes a specific point of noting the d-pad connector must be inserted precisely and with no angle. It is a very small connector and has two tiny screws. It does seem this connection is delicate and might become loose if keys on the d-pad are firmly pressed.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did notice it too. After a lot of tries, I got to the optimum on my phone (after the whitescreens started -- probably from a fall), giving a slight torque to the screws but not too much. It's much better then before, but still.. The d-pad pressing actually "fixes" the problem, so I guess that the controller is bad or when I apply some pressure I "fix" this. It's completely random and may be related to temperature (after taking battery out for a long time, problem tends to be less often). In a few days when my controller arrives I'll make sure I screw the connector well and hoping for the best.
When I look at the xilinx(if I remember it right) fpga circuit closely there is a small gap between 2 corners and circuit board. It might be the case that the solderballs under the chip arent soldered that well and when you use D-pad the circuit board bends a bit and in a time the bad solderballs loose connection. The bad thing is that you cant check the solderballs at home (it requires x-ray inspection if you want to keep it in one piece).
FIXED IT!
I fixed it! Well, it's a bit soon to tell it'll keep like that, but after ordering a new d-pad controller from cnn.cn, and taking extra care on installing it as the technical manual says (keeping 90 degrees angle on connection to keyboard), everything is back! No more whitescreens (let's hope it stays that way), ALL buttons are back!
Last week I replaced my flex ribbon cable because I tore the ribbon cable to the power button while replacing the digitizer.
After installing the new flex cable my blutooth signal has been terrible. When listening to music via S9-HD's when I go to put the phone back in my pocket the audio cuts out just in the motion from texting to placing the phone in my pocket. Also when walking its impossible to listen to any music because it cuts out so much.
What might my problem be? Is the blutooth antenna on the flex cable or did I mess something up when I took apart my phone?
anyone?
bump
We aren't ignoring you dude. I promise. Have you disassembled the phone again and tried wiggling things around?
Finally had the time to take it apart again and wiggled things around. It improved a little bit, but still the range is no where near what it was before I replaced the flex ribbon cable.
Does anyone know which cable is the Bluetooth cable? is it the black one on the left near the white cable or the single black cable on the opposite side? I did notice when I took my phone apart again was a small pinch in the single black cable. Would that pinch be enough to break the wire under the shielding?
I can get pics if needed some time this weekend.
wonderbread24 said:
Finally had the time to take it apart again and wiggled things around. It improved a little bit, but still the range is no where near what it was before I replaced the flex ribbon cable.
Does anyone know which cable is the Bluetooth cable? is it the black one on the left near the white cable or the single black cable on the opposite side? I did notice when I took my phone apart again was a small pinch in the single black cable. Would that pinch be enough to break the wire under the shielding?
I can get pics if needed some time this weekend.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Those types of cables are made of SUPER fine wire. A pinch can easily sever them inside the shielding.
How do i know for sure that the kinked cable is the bluetooth cable? So I can order the right one to eliminate that factor.
Does it look like that?
http://www.cellulardr.com/t-mobile-...y-touch-4g-blue-tooth-coax-cable-tmobile.html
There are two that look like that.
One on the left side and one on the right when looking at the phone with the back open and the screen facing down.
Sent from my Glacier using XDA
Well, there is a white and a black cable. The one in the product photo is black. Provided that is not a generic stock photo it should be the black one.
Hi . I changed my tmobile hd2's screen .
After change volume keys not working. So I can't update any rom.
Because I can't enter recovery.
How can I upgrade any rom without volume keys.
Can "CWM recovery touch" solve my problem.
Can I upgrade any rom with cwm touch recovery without volume keys
im not really sure about how to initally get into the recovery withour the volume keys, but if you can some how, a touch CMW recovery will work
it has directional keys on the bottom of the screen for you to navigate around
just flash it like you wud a normal recovery with what ever set-up size you need!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1419733
On the non touch cwm (some of them anyway) you can use home and menu hard keys to scroll as well as volume.
But as already mentioned,you can't get into recovery so having touch or alternate keys won't help.
matcoder said:
Hi . I changed my tmobile hd2's screen .
After change volume keys not working. So I can't update any rom.
Because I can't enter recovery.
How can I upgrade any rom without volume keys.
Can "CWM recovery touch" solve my problem.
Can I upgrade any rom with cwm touch recovery without volume keys
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
DO NOT FLASH ANYTHING WITH DAMAGED VOLUME KEYS!!
I flashed a splash screen on mine after damaging ribbon to volume keys and now I have a main board that will NOT recognize these keys even after replacing the broken part, I cant say yours will do this, but mine did soo...
I have replaced two screens on mine, the ribbon to the volume rocker is very delicate i tore two of them on my first screen replacement ( i buy bricked HD2s' for screens). I have had my HD2 now almost two years and no parts are original. Just recently i FINALLY bought one with a busted out screen so i could replace just the main ribbon assembly and a main board that can use volume keys.
This main ribbon sits under your regulatory label ( with the FCC shiz and serial #'s) its integral with your GPS radio, camera assembly, and of course volume rocker keys.
This can be replaced with only moderate difficulty, there are videos even from HTC that explains how to disassemble/reassemble everything safely and in order.
Disassemble
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cL-jnUKufC4
Reassemble
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=channel&list=UL
I found those after I ripped not one but two volume key ribbons....
To do this you need to pay attention to how the coaxial cables for bluetooth(white) and GPS(black thin) sit, to avoid a few hours of trial and error. getting everything to fit again.
First disconnect the coaxial from blutooth be gentle now, its the white cable at the left of my first image, that phone is nowhere near assembled remember how your cable was positioned. remove and unplug the speaker as well as the vibrator as you move the white cable out of the way, stop pulling it when you hit the screw hole at the top right corner of regulatory label.
Just above where the screw hole is you should see another plug like the blutooth coaxial only black disconnect that and leave it there. try to leave the thicker black cable that leads to camera connected, its ok if it comes out but its a pain to get connected again.
When the top right of your phone looks like my second pic your ready to remove the screw keeping the gps in place thats the top right screw, silver.
disconnect the camera cable from the main board its right next to the battery terminals, the only plug there and hard to miss behind where your simcard goes.
This is important..... right behind the volume keys is the groove thats keeping those coaxial and camera cables in place, under those is the ribbon leading to volume rocker. taking note of how they fit remove these cables from the groove 4th pic
Sorry about the detail cameras are less than perfect on ICS builds and im a terrible photographer on top of that. you must understand that there is a black tape holding those wires together near the mother board, thats right where the volume ribbon is so be careful when you get to that. i just cut/tear the tape holding wires in place, also one of the coaxial cables plugs under the main board right there as well be careful not to disconnect that, you wont hurt anything but its a pain to get it back.
after cables are free from groove you can remove volume rocker. rocker board is held with adhesive just like the camera up top. using fingernail pry the board away from its housing, when its loose from the housing its glued to just let it sit loose, be gentle while getting that loose.
now for the gps/camera, you can fit a small flat head screwdriver between edges of gps board and the plastic of the phone casing, the gps board has clip holding left side so go from the right or the same side that screw was in.
the camera is only adhered so you can put pressure to wherever you feel comfortable its actually pretty solid i have done it a few times and never harmed it.
peel it like you would a sticker down to the main board where it connects under the sdcard then pull it straight back. the last image is what the assembly looks like in tact so have an idea of where not to put too much stress when peeling it.
again DONT FLASH ANYTHING IF YOU RIPPED RIBBON TO VOLUME ROCKER!! This may wreck your main board as it did mine and you'll be stuck on sd builds until you find another main board....
HD2's with busted screens go for about $60-80 off ebay shipped. send me message if you have any q's, also that ribbon/camera/gps assembly in last picture is tested by me and fully functional, also much cheaper than a busted screen HD2 ........
Hi mrbox23,
I believe I have flashed my HTC HD2 (or at least tried) and now I can't get past the HTC splash screen and can't initiate the bootloader!
Hi opened the HTC HD2 and found that the ribbon/flex to volume rocker is cutted!
Now, according to your post it's probable that if I replace the whole main flex I won't be able to initiate bootloadr because the mainboard won't recognise the volume buttons?
Another question is: you said "This may wreck your main board as it did mine and you'll be stuck on sd builds until you find another main board...." this means that I can still use my HTC HD 2 using the sd memory card only with some build? If so can you tell me, or at least, point out some post where to do it? Because in every post that I saw it is necessary to be able to initiate the bootloader!
I would be very gratefull if you could help me on this.
Best regards,
calcaneo
There are many of us in the Nexus 7 community who are looking to build our tablets in to our cars and other places where the power button will not be practically accessible. I am one of those people. I was wondering if anybody had any ideas on how to extend the power button?
The ribbon cable for the power and volume buttons can be seen here: http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing+Nexus+7+Power+&+Volume+Button+Cable/9926/2
The header/connector on the board for the cable looks way too small to solder to and so my latest idea is finding a replacement ribbon cable that I could extend in to a tiny gauge wire and externalize from the case. From what I've been able to find so far, I think this is a ZIF FPC/FFC type ribbon cable and connector? I was thinking of something like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMvyL%2b65tEJ/L29YMZjxdjhiuZuU4IfHbXs= But I truly have no idea if this cable will fit? Anybody who's great with PCBs who would like to chime in?
If it helps I found a Molex catalog that has a couple connectors that look similar:
http://www.molex.com/catalog/web_catalog/pdfs/F.pdf
Subscribed!!
Ive been considering the nexus for my car pc aswell. Once i pick mine up i will tear it down and see if a ribbon cable could be either extended or possibly simply cut and have wires soldered to it for external power and volume. I have already designed a power supply for the nexus in the car that would also power a DAC and a HDD. I can provide the part number for the TI power chip that i used if anyone is interested. Its capable of producing 6 amps of current at 5 volts.
physical buttons suck. make all phone with only capacitive buttons,.
Interesting
jllbenson said:
physical buttons suck. make all phone with only capacitive buttons,.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How would that make externalizing the buttons as needed in this application any easier..?
irishboym4 said:
Ive been considering the nexus for my car pc aswell. Once i pick mine up i will tear it down and see if a ribbon cable could be either extended or possibly simply cut and have wires soldered to it for external power and volume. I have already designed a power supply for the nexus in the car that would also power a DAC and a HDD. I can provide the part number for the TI power chip that i used if anyone is interested. Its capable of producing 6 amps of current at 5 volts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is what I ended up doing. I got some good advice from another XDA'er who suggested I just pop the bubble button off the ribbon and solder to the contacts directly. In reality the bubble buttons are on a laminated sticker that I could just peel back. Then I soldered to the pads and pushed the cables out through where the rubber for the power button used to be. So far things seem to be working well, I'm a little weary of how this soldering will survive the swings in temperature being left in the car, but I guess there's only one way to find out. Observe:
dmexs said:
How would that make externalizing the buttons as needed in this application any easier..?
This is what I ended up doing. I got some good advice from another XDA'er who suggested I just pop the bubble button off the ribbon and solder to the contacts directly. In reality the bubble buttons are on a laminated sticker that I could just peel back. Then I soldered to the pads and pushed the cables out through where the rubber for the power button used to be. So far things seem to be working well, I'm a little weary of how this soldering will survive the swings in temperature being left in the car, but I guess there's only one way to find out. Observe:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats very nicely done. I want to do power and volume for my setup. Did the wire size you use work well or would you recommend smaller? otherwise i will need a separate volume control solution for the system. what do you have your tablet connected to for your amp and speakers?
Thanks. I used a 22 gauge wire, the smaller the better I think, as long as it's not bare. As far as amp, I'm using an aftermarket CD deck with a 3.5mm audio in. So I don't really plan on changing the volume on the tablet itself. I'll probably just keep it at 90% to avoid clipping and then adjust the gain with the CD deck. I haven't put it in my car yet though.
Steering Wheel Controls for Car PC
Has anyone tried the Joycon steering wheel control system with an android yet? It supports HID and no drivers are required for windows. It says that it cannot be programed from a linux or mac computer but just windows. Though once its programed it can be used with linux. Im thinking USB OTG plus this guy and you could control the tablet right from the steering wheel.
The solder will last fine on that job. The only thing I would be concerned about is getting false "presses" from the one lead that's soldered to the middle touching the outside ring. Perhaps just place a piece of electrical tape under it. Your other option might be to go straight from the connector the the flex plugs into. Just use a multimeter to test which pins you need to tap.
Thank you so much.
dmexs said:
How would that make externalizing the buttons as needed in this application any easier..?
This is what I ended up doing. I got some good advice from another XDA'er who suggested I just pop the bubble button off the ribbon and solder to the contacts directly. In reality the bubble buttons are on a laminated sticker that I could just peel back. Then I soldered to the pads and pushed the cables out through where the rubber for the power button used to be. So far things seem to be working well, I'm a little weary of how this soldering will survive the swings in temperature being left in the car, but I guess there's only one way to find out. Observe:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just wanna thank the hell out of you. I have been searching and measuring that tiny little cable for about 2 hours now trying to find a connector and cable the right pitch/pins. Somehow the magical world of google brought me here. A site, despite my post numbers, I frequent very often. I'm installing the tablet in my car as well and I too needed a solution to the power button. Cant believe I didnt think to check here. You posted this just a few days ago. Crazy. Once again thank you. I should be able to pull this off no problem.
---------- Post added at 07:55 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:49 AM ----------
Oh and by the way any issues with this so far? I dont imagine you have seeing as a switch on the to ends of the wire are doing exactly what the little foil button does. Just wanted to ask though before I commit to this in a couple of days.
I recommend if you are going to put it in a car, it needs some sort of quick release. If any stress is put on that cable, the contacts would either lift or the flex would rip pretty easily. I did my nook soldered straight to the main board and a quick release in the cable between the board and the button. I also did as much as I could to keep the cable from the back housing to board from moving by putting tape and locking the cable down when I put the back housing on.
The first picture shows the main board of the Nook. I just took off the old button and replaced it with my wiring. I used hot glue to keep it from wiggling.You can see the quick releases I used in the second picture. I just pulled them from a donor PC I had laying around.
Being a USB fan, I'd try to see if a custom USB device could do the job.
Just recently I made a USB volume control for Windows.
It works on my Nook Touch too.
Omyn said:
I recommend if you are going to put it in a car, it needs some sort of quick release. If any stress is put on that cable, the contacts would either lift or the flex would rip pretty easily. I did my nook soldered straight to the main board and a quick release in the cable between the board and the button. I also did as much as I could to keep the cable from the back housing to board from moving by putting tape and locking the cable down when I put the back housing on.
The first picture shows the main board of the Nook. I just took off the old button and replaced it with my wiring. I used hot glue to keep it from wiggling.You can see the quick releases I used in the second picture. I just pulled them from a donor PC I had laying around.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly. I'm planning on using a male and female molex connector I found at radioshack. Currently I'm trying to figure out some intricacies involving Google Music and external storage but soon I'll have more pictures up here.
dmexs said:
Exactly. I'm planning on using a male and female molex connector I found at radioshack. Currently I'm trying to figure out some intricacies involving Google Music and external storage but soon I'll have more pictures up here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
keep us posted on the google music + external storage because i will be doing that soon aswell.
Have you tried connecting a faux USB HID device (like the Arduino Leonardo) and sending arbitrary keycodes while it's "off" to see whether any might be capable of waking it up? I don't know whether that could power it up from a "cold off" state, but I'm 99% sure you could wake it up from "screen off, asleep" that way.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
bitbang3r said:
Have you tried connecting a faux USB HID device (like the Arduino Leonardo) and sending arbitrary keycodes while it's "off" to see whether any might be capable of waking it up? I don't know whether that could power it up from a "cold off" state, but I'm 99% sure you could wake it up from "screen off, asleep" that way.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't tried this. I've just been using my externalized power button to wake the device from both warm and cold off states. I have a CNX-2140 power supply from my old car PC setup that has an ACPI pulse. I use this to wake the device from a warm sleep.
Thanks you XDA for being here. Just solved half of the problem my friend was having for his tablet . Mounting it in a 2006 Mustang. Now, Gotta see if he can use the POGO for charging and a USB OTG for the external camera
its help!! thanks!
What do you terminate the raw wire ends to now? I'd by looking at mounting some kind of button inside the cab of my vehicle to turn it on/off. What kind of button would a person look for? Thanks
---------- Post added at 09:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:39 AM ----------
dmexs said:
How would that make externalizing the buttons as needed in this application any easier..?
This is what I ended up doing. I got some good advice from another XDA'er who suggested I just pop the bubble button off the ribbon and solder to the contacts directly. In reality the bubble buttons are on a laminated sticker that I could just peel back. Then I soldered to the pads and pushed the cables out through where the rubber for the power button used to be. So far things seem to be working well, I'm a little weary of how this soldering will survive the swings in temperature being left in the car, but I guess there's only one way to find out. Observe:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you terminate the raw wire ends to now? I'd by looking at mounting some kind of button inside the cab of my vehicle to turn it on/off. What kind of button would a person look for? Thanks
Hardware Issues after replacing battery, USB/Audio connectors & main board
Need some help, and figured you guys would be the right people to direct me on a fix or at least narrowing down the cause of the problem
Phone - Verizon G2 v980
TLDR - replaced 3 different parts, and now phone display won't show anything - just black.
It all started when I was having some audio issues with the headset jack being loose, and headphones and aux output disconnecting easily and often. It was pissing me off, so I decided to replace it. (I'm no stranger to tearing apart and fixing small electronics but I never worked on the LG G2.
I figured since I was going to open it up, I'd replace the battery at the same time, and bought both off ebay.
When they finally arrived, I opened up my phone following a couple videos I'd found online (btw, no little black screw in mine, as it was a refurbed replacement via squaretrade.)
Unfortunately, through a combo of cheap 3rd party battery with a very stiff ribbon cable, and my clumsy fingers, I managed to destroy the logic board's battery connection port.
So I went on ebay to find a new board... I found a used verizon 32gb (mine was 16gb) board and got it delivered.
When I put it together, something is not working right, but I can't be sure what it is...
I think the board is bad, but am not 100%.
Screen is black
I can connect the phone to my computer, and it will autodownload the LG Verizon software, and show up in my file explorer. There's some files still there, but it looks like it was attempted to be cleaned, but not factory reset wiped (some personal data still there) but the dates are all showing 1970ish....
I have the phone connected up to the original charger, and the notification light pulses light to dark red as it charges up.
When I plug in the charger, I hear a buzz, and sometimes even a tone.
I hold down the power button, and eventually it vibrates again, and the notification LED pulses blue & green, and there's a brief backlight looking light with some vertical lines, another buzz and black screen. I'd think it was shut down, but it still shows in the computer, and the light to dark red pulsing continues (charging?)
knock on doesn't work
Should I return the board?
Saw some other threads about the proximity sensor, so I can check that out, but I didn't touch the screen...
Thanks in advance!
Update
No difference with proximity sensor disconnected.
With the old board in with busted power connector wedged in, it does nothing, except when plugged in, where it buzzes repeatedly.