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Hi folks,
I'm new and hope you can help me with a problem I've been having with my wizard. Recently it began to de-calibrate. Re-calibration failed because when I tried that, I couldn't point to the cross in the middle of the screen (the first of the calibration points) - it just wouldn't react. After many tries and pointing with my finger the calibration in the middle seemed to work and continued with all the four corners, but started all over again. I could do this ten times, it didn't matter. Only after I let it alone for a few minutes the calibration stopped and I was able to return to WM (trying to live with a de-calibration sucks).
So it seems that the de-calibration was the very thing that prevented me from re-calibrating my screen.
I read about this phenomenon, it seems to be quite common, yet I could not find a solution for it.
Anyway, I did a backup of my data and did a hard-reset, hoping that this might do the trick and reset whatever wrong calibration was stored. Unfortunately this was not the case. After the hard-reset and bootup, the initial calibration failes for the exact same reason as explained. Problem is, now simply waiting a few minutes to get to WM won't help, it's still waiting for calibration, which, because of de-calibration, cannot be completed.
Is there
a) any way I can skip this initial calibration attempt (some button, I read something about this, but couldn't find anything specific) so to at least get to WM and use my wizard using buttons
b) a solution for this calibration problem besides repairs (I don't have warranty for it, so I guess I wouldn't pay that much, but get another phone)
?
I appreciate any help on this, so far it cost me many hours, but now I'm stuck with my wizard and there is no way I can use it as long as I don't get an answer to at least my first question.
Also: Is this a hardware problem (I could probably get another display, might this help?) or software?
To me it sounds like the digitizer on top of the screen has got something wrong with it. Did you perhaps drop or let your Wizard get hit? If so, it may have just barely cracked the glass digitizer, and that would cause your problem. I hope that helps some!
If your touchscreen (digitizer) seems to be intact, it's possible the ribbon cable has simply come lose. Sadly, this happens more frequently on the slider-type devices than on clam-shell on bar designs. I believe that's not an easy repair; I'm pretty sure HTC resistance welds their touchscreen ribbon cables directly to the LCD module.
If you're the type, you could try poking around with a soldering iron, but it may not do much good.
If you want to completely eradicate the on-startup calibration, you can overwrite Welcome.exe on the device; this will get rid of all the "Welcome to Windows Mobile" hoopla, as well as the first-time calibration. Good luck using an uncalibrated touchscreen, though.
put a file called welcome.not on your storage card in the root directory, this will skip the welcom and calibration after a hard reset.
hi,
first, thank you for all your comments so far.
in another thread somebody said that just cleaning the borders of the display might help. i disessembled my wizard (if you are interested in knowing how to do that, here's a page where it shows how to replace the display of a vario, it's in german though) an did just that (there was lots of dirt there), checked all cable connections, sadly it changed nothing.
so i will try to replace the whole display unit (that is, if i find one), hopefully this will help.
i will also try putting welcome.not onto my memory card (the file must contain nothing else, i suppose?), so to at least have control over my wizard using buttons. that i will do tomorrow, unfortunately i have no cardreader where i am right now.
i also thought that probably another solution (for getting access to my wizard, not for the calibration problem) could be possible. since i backed up my system just before the hard-reset (using sprite backup), i wonder if it is possible to somehow restore that backup without actually having to go into WM and the sprite backup program. is there a way to do that with just using the memory card with the backup on it?
page where it shows how to replace the display of a vario, it's in german though) an did just that (there was lots of dirt there), checked all cable connections, sadly it changed nothing.
so i will try to replace the whole display unit (that is, if i find one), hopefully this will help.
-------------------------------
FYI - I had a very similar problem, and I had to replace the whole LCD/Digitizer assembly. Not too expensive, but not very cheap either. Nonetheless, better then getting a whole new phone, as I had to do when my SX56 died
veda_sticks said:
put a file called welcome.not on your storage card in the root directory, this will skip the welcom and calibration after a hard reset.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that worked perfectly.
as for the original problem (de-calibration), that remains unsolved. after overriding the initial calibration attempt (using welcome.not) it was of course not possible to navigate WM with the stylus, just by using buttons. another attempt of calibration failed also, but that was to be expected, so i restored my backup, hoping to find myself right where i had started (still de-calibrated, but at least manageable until i get a replacement for my display unit).
surprisingly, after the backup restoration the display was as de-calibrated as before, right after the hard-reset (in other words totally). so where that leaves me now is with my original WM minus the possibility of stylus navigation (which sucks).
anyway, thanks again for all the help, i'll keep you posted when i get the replacement display unit.
btw, is there a way to calibrate my smartphone via my pc?
Well, there's no way to 'calibrate' it, and if your touchscreen is broken, this won't help, but just in case it's an odd software glitch, or your touchscreen is partially intact, I believe the calibration is stored in the registry.
I may be wrong, as I won't have my Wizard for testing until later this week, but if memory/google serves, the following registry tweak should give you a baseline calibration.
Code:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\HARDWARE\DEVICEMAP\TOUCH
"CalibrationData"="1922,1957 3330,639 3317,3276 600,3230 609,677 "
There are a number of remote registry editors that will allow you to edit this from the PC. If your touchscreen seems to work better with this edit, you can try tweaking the numbers manually- I believe it treats the touchscreen as matrix of 3900x3900 touch points, where lesser numbers are closer to the top right; the calibration numbers in the string are the X,Y coordinates of the points you touch for each of the five X's in order.
ktemkin said:
Well, there's no way to 'calibrate' it, and if your touchscreen is broken, this won't help, but just in case it's an odd software glitch, or your touchscreen is partially intact, I believe the calibration is stored in the registry.
I may be wrong, as I won't have my Wizard for testing until later this week, but if memory/google serves, the following registry tweak should give you a baseline calibration.
Code:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\HARDWARE\DEVICEMAP\TOUCH
"CalibrationData"="1922,1957 3330,639 3317,3276 600,3230 609,677 "
There are a number of remote registry editors that will allow you to edit this from the PC. If your touchscreen seems to work better with this edit, you can try tweaking the numbers manually- I believe it treats the touchscreen as matrix of 3900x3900 touch points, where lesser numbers are closer to the top right; the calibration numbers in the string are the X,Y coordinates of the points you touch for each of the five X's in order.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ingenious! with your help i was able to restore the calibration from above, so to at least be able to use my stylus again - at least to a certain extend, since the calibration coordinates you posted are not 100% precise and definitely need some tuning.
after a soft-reset to get the new registry values loaded (not just inserting the stylus into the reset hole, this way the new values are lost; you have to turn the device off and on again) i tried again to calibrate - it failed again, for the same reason as at the very beginning (clicks on the middle crosse were not accepted).
i have 2 explanations for this:
1.) my display unit IS damaged and simply does not accept clicks in that area
or
2.) the first coordinate is wrong.
i did some thinking and calculating on this. i don't fully agree with you when you say that the coordinates refer to the upper right corner. if you hold the device like you were using it (not in landscape mode), the point 0/0 is actually the one down RIGHT. only if you're thinking in landscape mode is it down left.
anyway, since the coordinates for the four corners seemed more or less ok (although i wondered why points on the same axis differ in their coordinates, which they shouldn't), i did some calculations and came up with these coordinates for the middle-point: 1361,1312
this is how i went about it:
(3330-609)/2=1360.5
(3230-607)/2=1311.5
i tried them (leaving the others as they were), but they horribly failed and i had to hard-reset my wizard to start all over.
still, i do not understand why the other coordinates seem to be correct, yet my calculation was wrong. 1922,1957 for the middle just seems totally wrong to me when i look at the other coordinates which work fine.
do you have any thoughts on that?
what would also be very helpful would be the actual coordinates from a wizard which is correctly calibrated. anyone reading this with a working wizard, please share them with us.
if you look at the screen using portrait orientation the UPPER RIGHT corner is 0,0. that's why the numbers for the final calibration cross (upper right) are the smallest.
you should have added instead of subtracted (then divide by 2 like you did) to get your midpoint.
If the upper left calibration cross is 3280 from the right side, and the upper right calibration cross is 620 from the right side (about the same distance the upper left is from the left side of the screen) that would mean you would have to ADD to get the total width. Your method yields the distance from calibration cross to calibration cross (divided by 2).
I think ktemkin is right, the matrix is about 3900x3900 with the mid point to be around 1950,1950
so a "PERFECT" calibration would be something like:
1950,1950 3280,620 3280,3280 620,3280 620,620.
Of course, the touch screen isn't perfectly aligned with the LED so we need to calibrate, and this is also why the numbers from a different phone don't quite work right for you.
hi again,
i got my replacement display-unit a few days ago (cost me 25,50€ on ebay, a pretty good deal, i guess) and just installed it into my wizard.
after booting up the calibration immediately worked, so, as i suspected, the display unit was the reason all along.
but that's not all, i want to share something else: when i first booted up with the new display unit, the colors on the display seemed somehow "wrong", as if the display was reduced to a lower amount of colors than it was supposed to have. my suspicion was confirmed when i loaded the waterfall picture that's by default in MyImages, it didn't look right at all.
i then remembered that such problems can occur on a pc when your screen is not correctly attached to your graphics card (maybe because your cat fell over the cable). this can happen when the connection to a single pin (or more than one) is not correctly established while the other pins work fine. this can result in the screen showing the usual images, but with strange colors.
i therefore dissassembled my wizard and checked all connections. i hadn't put the little plastic stripes over the connection cables where they are connected to at first, because i thought that those weren't really necessary if you got the connection right. but after checking all the connections, i made sure to put (as it should be) those little plastic stripes over the cables, securing the connection even more. after booting up, i sure got my screen working as it was supposed to.
so, finally, i thank you all for your help, i am very happy that i was able to repair my wizard, it now works perfectly again.
i did get myself a hermes some time ago, which now replaces my wizard, but hey, that really doesn't spoil the relief of having repaired the wizard. i now have to decide if i keep it as a replacement (in case something happens to my hermes) or sell it on ebay, now that it's working again.
Ciao!
first -> srr my english is terrible
i have dimond 1 and a had same problem. After Hardreset system want calibrate display and calibrate display and calibrate display........
I try take down folie (screen protector) and everything is fine
Its my solutions
I'm sorta new and not exactly sure how to submit questions.
I installed the SPB mobile shell on my elfin htc and now the touch features don't work and my phone won't sleep without what appears to be the backlight on. Can someone provide some directions on how to fix this? Can't get to the bootloader either.
if you reset your device, can't it boot up into windows mobile?
if it boots up, why not connect it to the pc and try removing the last app through activesync?
if there isn't anything that important on the device, did you think of a hard reset?
Thanks for the quick response, however, I did do a soft reset, the screen is not responding (completely frozen). I've already removed the program, I thought was the culprit (spb mobile shell). I did a backup, but without touch features, I can't restore backup. I can't do a hard reset that's not working properly either. Any additional ideas, I'm at a complete lost.
Hi
Touchscreen of my HTC Touch (P3452) stopped working. I tired following:
- hard reset
- hard reset successful, then It asked me to tap the screen for alignment then I tap, it worked but on Calibrate screen where you align your screen touch is not working. nothing is happening after that even power button is not working. my Touch is not hanged coz if I touch the screen after It goes to sleep, the backlight will turn on.
So I though may be something wrong with the original ROM, then I tired flashing it with cooked ROM's but nothing worked.
I am still stuck at calibiration screen
-
Plz help, I miss my HTC Touch (P3452) so much!!!
If your touchscreen is not working, there could be only 2 solutions.
- Get a digitizer off dealextreme.com
- Hard reset device.
my $0.02.
Cheers.
What's a digitzer and what does it do? I've looked in cell phone accessories and did a search on dealextreme.com, however, unable to locate such an item. Can you provide a little more detail. Desperately trying to get this phone to work and right now this appears to be the only solution. Hard reset isn't working.
toot-b said:
What's a digitzer and what does it do? I've looked in cell phone accessories and did a search on dealextreme.com, however, unable to locate such an item. Can you provide a little more detail. Desperately trying to get this phone to work and right now this appears to be the only solution. Hard reset isn't working.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Come on, Google man!
http://www.dealextreme.com/products.dx/category.506~search.htc touch digitizer
Digitizer is a 'panel' which is above the LCD, which senses where your hand is at on the phone.
Something like this:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Graphics_tablet
It is just something which sense where is your fingers are in the touchscreen.
Hi toot-b:
I had a similar problem a few days ago. My screen stopped working completely. I gave it a few taps and a squeeze and it started working.
After a while it stopped working again and did not respond to the squeezing too. Then out of desperation, I tried searching the internet. One guy had given the most idiotic explanation I've ever come across.
He had advised to take a blade and peel away the LCD screen and after taking the screen away, to rub the copper contacts with the blade and then putting it back in!!!
Well, I was really really desperate and I had to try it. I didn't remove the screen completely. I just took the screen off a wee little bit on the bottom right corner near the camera button. I kinda got scared after that and put it back in.
To my surprise, the touch screen started working perfectly and till now its doing great. Try it at your own risk. All the best!!!!
theo2409 said:
Hi toot-b:
I had a similar problem a few days ago. My screen stopped working completely. I gave it a few taps and a squeeze and it started working.
After a while it stopped working again and did not respond to the squeezing too. Then out of desperation, I tried searching the internet. One guy had given the most idiotic explanation I've ever come across.
He had advised to take a blade and peel away the LCD screen and after taking the screen away, to rub the copper contacts with the blade and then putting it back in!!!
Well, I was really really desperate and I had to try it. I didn't remove the screen completely. I just took the screen off a wee little bit on the bottom right corner near the camera button. I kinda got scared after that and put it back in.
To my surprise, the touch screen started working perfectly and till now its doing great. Try it at your own risk. All the best!!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have some photos to show us?
Cheers
I've got a Samsung Focus that no longer has a working display. It seems the rest of the phone functions perfectly, but I'm unable to see what is happening. I think the display is recoverable, but I'm not positive (it's almost like there's no power being sent to it).
So when I connect to Zune software, I'm unable to view my phone contents because I have a lock pin. This becomes problematic with a non-working display. So one solution to my problem is how can I remove this code OR factory reset my phone without getting screen conformations.
Secondly, would it be worth an investment to repair the screen by buying a new one? It seems to be about ~$130 online for new displays and I'm very comfortable doing modifications like this with mobile devices
Thanks!
JoelLarson said:
I've got a Samsung Focus that no longer has a working display. It seems the rest of the phone functions perfectly, but I'm unable to see what is happening. I think the display is recoverable, but I'm not positive (it's almost like there's no power being sent to it).
So when I connect to Zune software, I'm unable to view my phone contents because I have a lock pin. This becomes problematic with a non-working display. So one solution to my problem is how can I remove this code OR factory reset my phone without getting screen conformations.
Secondly, would it be worth an investment to repair the screen by buying a new one? It seems to be about ~$130 online for new displays and I'm very comfortable doing modifications like this with mobile devices
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What I suggest is read the diagnisis codes thread and see if you find something useful there (code, advice). Personally, I haven't heard of any code disabling the screen but there might be one. The hard reset combo from the wiki should cover that too, I think.
Now, that being said, I see 3 possibilities, higher probability first:
1. screen is damaged (and/or possibly something else). if it's broken, you can confirm.
2. screen connector/cord is loose (should be easy to fix)
3. software/code issue
1 is hardware repair
2 is easy fix, still hardware
3 is easier fix. here, you need a secondary phone, identical. you can perform the exact steps side-by-side to copy/make sure you got it right.
I know it's not a loose connector issue. I've triple checked that and have rubbed it all down in alcohol to make sure it wasn't a dirt issue. I also cannot do anything that requires the digiplex as none of it seems to be registered.
Things that work for sure:
Sound (internal speaker)
Power Button
Volume Buttons
Touch buttons on the front at the bottom (by windows key)
So the screen doesn't work but it's not broken?
I spent several hours over the weekend rooting, unrooting, and re-rooting my new NST. Each time I rooted it, I ended up with a touchscreen problem where touches registered with the wrong column.
For example: when trying to use the backspace key, 'h' would also register. When trying to use 'p', 'e', or 'r', 'y' would also register. Both the key that I wanted and the central key would indicate a keypress (turn black) but only one of them would register in the text box. This is entirely dependent on software, but it's something that is cleared with the 8x failed boot restore and not with the two bottom buttons restore.
I have tried both TouchNooter and MinimalTouch twice. My latest attempt was MinimalTouch:
Start with a clean NST with software 1.0.1
Install 1.1 update (keyboard still works)
Follow MinimalTouch procedure
NST is rooted and android home screen is accessible, however, the keyboard no longer functions properly
Perform reset (hold bottom two buttons on startup)
Button Saver is gone, android home screen is not accessible, keyboard still does not function properly
Perform 8x reboot restore
Keyboard functions perfectly
Has anyone dealt with this before? I couldn't find anything with the search function.
Though this thread appears to be doing nothing, I will at least let you guys know of the current idea:
I have gone back and checked the touchscreen after each step in the procedure, and appears like the 1.1.2 update causes the problem.
Without any rooting or funky installs:
Perform 8-reboot reset
Touchscreen works fine, SW 1.0.1
Install 1.1.2
Touchscreen is impaired, SW 1.1.2
Perform 8-reboot reset
Touchscreen works fine, SW 1.0.1
Did the 1.1 update include a change in the touchscreen sensitivity?
How do I ensure that the IR sensors are clean? A shot of compressed air?
Should I just call B&N/sears and try to get a replacement that functions properly with the update?
I believe that I have determined the cause of my touchscreen difficulty:
The front bezel of my NST is not entirely glued down. I noticed that the spacing was irregular between the eink display, the black (really dark) plastic layer, and the top matte gray layer.
Squeezing my NST temporarily blocks the issue (until the glue re-expands)
The software updates must change the touchscreen sensitivity to some extent, causing the poor tolerance in my particular NST to result in inaccurate touchscreen response.
I'll be talking to the manufacturer or the seller (Sears) soon about a replacement unit.
I hope noone else has to figure their way through this with a brand new nook!
Sorry for resurrecting a death thread. But my nook simple touch (which was rooted and had button saviour etc), slowly started having problems with touch. Now since 2 days, touch screen isn't working anymore, no matter how much cleaning I do to the bezels. I can't even open it due to the slider lock screen. Don't know what to do. I would be happy to settle with a button-based navigation, all I want to do is to read epubs. Any help greatly appreciated. I can prob for problems. I have a rooted nst1 which I haven't tinkered since 2012.
If this isn't the right place, I will start a new thread.
TIA
Forthe55 said:
Sorry for resurrecting a death thread. But my nook simple touch (which was rooted and had button saviour etc), slowly started having problems with touch. Now since 2 days, touch screen isn't working anymore, no matter how much cleaning I do to the bezels. I can't even open it due to the slider lock screen. Don't know what to do. I would be happy to settle with a button-based navigation, all I want to do is to read epubs. Any help greatly appreciated. I can prob for problems. I have a rooted nst1 which I haven't tinkered since 2012.
If this isn't the right place, I will start a new thread.
TIA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried swiping two fingers across the screen from right to left? This is not my original idea but someone else long ago delivered me from your situation with this simple tip. If I ever knew the explanation, I have forgotten it. Probably something with the multi-touch kernal. It will even work on an unresponsive lock screen. I still use it on occasion, so something triggers the behavior, but it is generally infrequent.
If that doesn't work to restore functionality then something more dire has happened.
Forthe55 said:
Now since 2 days, touch screen isn't working anymore.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your swipe lockscreen may present a problem.
I don't see any entry in the settings on my NST, so I don't know how to disable it.
You can download my Touch-1.0.apk from the signature.
That will help you debug the tricky IR paths.
All the lines should be light gray, darker lines indicate an occlusion.
The corners are always difficult and you may have a line or two dark.
The problems are either dirt on the bezel or the bezel/filter/display coming unglued.
You can install and run it (without a launcher or touch screen):
Code:
C:\>adb install Touch-1.0.apk
C:\>adb shell am start -n com.temblast.touch/.Touch
I am sure that my nook is rooted , but adb isn’t working. May be usb debugging isn’t on. The problem is that I can’t even unlock it past the “drag to unlock” screen. Now I have to find out how to enable adb without having a working touchscreen to install the touch1.apk.
The two finger swipe isn’t working. I used to draw a single finger across the borders clockwise, which used to help calibrate the touch , not working anymore.
Forthe55 said:
Maybe usb debugging isn’t on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, you should be able to tell.
There are three ways to interact with a running Nook:
Touch screen
ADB over USB or WiFi
Hardware root console
You seem to say that the first two don't work.
You can also try a factory reset or recovery.
There is the whole OmapLink thread that describes how to unbrick an NST.
Here is the middle of the thread, you might need to read before and after:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/nook-touch/general/root-nook-glowlight-t2853056/page6
I did a factory reset and the nook is at startup screen with the NEXT button, which obviously can’t be pressed. So the touch issue is definitely “hardware-related “. Few days back I travelled to a hot and humid place , carrying my nook and the soft rubber part in the front of the bezel, started coming of. No matter how much I clean the bezel , this time touch isn’t coming back. I am wondering whether there’s any way to disassemble and readjust the ir sensor for touch.
Renate NST said:
The problems are either dirt on the bezel or the bezel/filter/display coming unglued.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's stuck together with the standard super-double-stick tape.
It's hypersensitive to the slightest bending up or down of any of the layers.
Without ADB and diagnostics (like Touch-1.0.apk) it's impossible to figure out which bit of the edge is out of whack.
It sounds like you only have two options:
Get the hardware console working with a 1.8V level shifter and a UART.
(Easy for me, may not be easy for you.)
Use OmapLink to boot an image that has ADB running (like Noogie or CWMR)
and enable ADB on your main image.
I remember rooting it in 2012 with some image burned on my SD card. Is there a way to again root with the help of an SD card without involving touching the screen with adb enabled rom. That way I can install the diagnostic app and dismantle it to prob further.
Sorry, it's been so long that I forget all this stuff.
Yeah, if you put Noogie on an SD card, I believe that it will boot from there.
With the OmapLink and Windows 10 it can be a bear sometimes to get the three (all the same) drivers working.
Windows 10 is really crappy on recognizing/capturing USB devices that appear briefly.
I can't get W10 to see 0451/d00e
My Raspberry Pi grabs it immediately:
Code:
[ 60.061477] usb 1-1.3: new high-speed USB device number 4 using dwc_otg
[ 60.202744] usb 1-1.3: New USB device found, idVendor=0451, idProduct=d00e
[ 60.202756] usb 1-1.3: New USB device strings: Mfr=33, Product=37, SerialNumber=0
[ 60.202766] usb 1-1.3: Product: OMAP3630
[ 60.202774] usb 1-1.3: Manufacturer: Texas Instruments
[ 63.348937] usb 1-1.3: USB disconnect, device number 4
It appears for 3 seconds from a cold power up, that's too quick for W10 to do anything.
I saw a video on YouTube on screen replacement, with complete disassembly and assembly. Opened the nst , took out the screen from the bezel (keeping the screen and the aluminium metal frame intact, too much sticky tape there), wiped everything clean, reassembled everything back. Still the same problem. I am wondering, even if I somehow get to install and run the diagnostic app, what kind of hardware alterations we need to do. Since the infrared touch LEDs are on the back of the motherboard, what kind of alignment would be necessary.
Is it to the metal frame or the plastic bezel, do we need to tinker?
Did you use new tape?
I think that everything has to be really tight and old tape seems to leave gaps.
There is also the possibility that the MSP340 has lost its mind.
I'll have to look at my oldest NST.
I haven't detached the screen from the metal frame. But the screen attachment to the front bezel seems to be attached to a plastic ribbon which was partially coming out of the front frame. It was sticky so I reattached the screen/metal frame back to it the front plastic part. Now when I see the screen up front, the bezel space/gap between the screen and the black plastic part is uneven. I don't thing that can be repaired as the front black part is disintegrating. Three of my four page turn buttons are no more attached to the frame, I have kept them there with tape.
Well, I completely cleaned with Goo-Be-Gone and isopropyl alcohol the bezel, the filter and the display.
I redid everything with 4mm Tesa film: https://www.microcenter.com/product/507366/tesa-double-sided-tape-4-mm-wide
The horizontal spans (except for the corners) are good, the vertical spans are still problematical.
You can lightly press and warp the bezel and things go in and out.
I think that I'm throwing in the towel on this one.
Reasons to dump the NST: Android 2.1, 256M RAM, OMAP3621 not being further developed by B&N
Reasons to keep the NST: Only Nook with a bare eInk (no backlight layer, no capacitive layer)
Don’t know about the filter, but the bezel looks very fragile to handle. I also believe that the time has come to retire it. But what I liked the most about nst was it’s screen and ability to side load books via wifi. I had gmail and opera mini installed on it. All I needed was to send a link to gmail to download the book, after the Dropbox support was gone. I am searching for a similar ebook reader. Can’t decide between Kindle paper white(which is available locally) and nook glow light 3(which has to be imported). Any suggestions welcome.
Well, the "filter" or "lens" or "light pipe" is what I'm calling the flimsy green translucent piece.
I've never even looked at the Kindles. I don't want to get involved with that whole ecosystem.
The Glow3 is physically almost the same as the NST.
I've got enough devices with browsers on them.
I use my Nooks with WiFi off and sync with USB (ADB & AdbSync).
Hello,
Since a few days, the touch input of my front (LCD) screen stopped working. Nothing looks damaged, the screen still displays what it is supposed to, but there is no reaction to my inputs (actions on volume and power buttons do work, as well as on the e-ink screen). Did this happen to any of you? Any suggestion on possible ways to fix it?
I should also mention that it still works by moments, like half a day working, then 2 days not responding, etc. I tried shaking it in different ways should a connector be slightly displaced, with no success: the few times it started working again came like a (good) surprise. I also had the great idea to do a factory reset, so now the phone is stuck on the Android configuration wizard, which must be done on the front screen (no possibility to use YotaMirror, apparently).
Thanks!
wicoz said:
Hello,
Since a few days, the touch input of my front (LCD) screen stopped working. Nothing looks damaged, the screen still displays what it is supposed to, but there is no reaction to my inputs (actions on volume and power buttons do work, as well as on the e-ink screen). Did this happen to any of you? Any suggestion on possible ways to fix it?
I should also mention that it still works by moments, like half a day working, then 2 days not responding, etc. I tried shaking it in different ways should a connector be slightly displaced, with no success: the few times it started working again came like a (good) surprise. I also had the great idea to do a factory reset, so now the phone is stuck on the Android configuration wizard, which must be done on the front screen (no possibility to use YotaMirror, apparently).
Thanks!
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i recommend reflash it. possibly and more strongly recommend to flash the same version and region which was installed for example HongKong 4.4.3 baseband number .HK1.0.36a
ftp://fw.ydevices.com/YotaPhone2/Firmwares/
Actually, I forgot that the front screen was replaced several months ago (by a repairer that mistakenly changed the front screen instead of the e-ink one which was having an issue).
The factory reset didn't improve the situation, the front screen becoming "touch-insensitive" every few days. After checking how the screen connectors are supposed to be plugged (opposed to the screen), I noticed that gently tapping the phone front screen down helped to solve the issue each time it happened. A few days ago, I finally opened the phone (quite easy, there are two useful videos online) and unplugged/replugged the screen connector. It has been working fine since then.
If it happens to anybody (who would have its front screen replaced), I hope it can help!