Calibration fails after hard-reset - 8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario General

Hi folks,
I'm new and hope you can help me with a problem I've been having with my wizard. Recently it began to de-calibrate. Re-calibration failed because when I tried that, I couldn't point to the cross in the middle of the screen (the first of the calibration points) - it just wouldn't react. After many tries and pointing with my finger the calibration in the middle seemed to work and continued with all the four corners, but started all over again. I could do this ten times, it didn't matter. Only after I let it alone for a few minutes the calibration stopped and I was able to return to WM (trying to live with a de-calibration sucks).
So it seems that the de-calibration was the very thing that prevented me from re-calibrating my screen.
I read about this phenomenon, it seems to be quite common, yet I could not find a solution for it.
Anyway, I did a backup of my data and did a hard-reset, hoping that this might do the trick and reset whatever wrong calibration was stored. Unfortunately this was not the case. After the hard-reset and bootup, the initial calibration failes for the exact same reason as explained. Problem is, now simply waiting a few minutes to get to WM won't help, it's still waiting for calibration, which, because of de-calibration, cannot be completed.
Is there
a) any way I can skip this initial calibration attempt (some button, I read something about this, but couldn't find anything specific) so to at least get to WM and use my wizard using buttons
b) a solution for this calibration problem besides repairs (I don't have warranty for it, so I guess I wouldn't pay that much, but get another phone)
?
I appreciate any help on this, so far it cost me many hours, but now I'm stuck with my wizard and there is no way I can use it as long as I don't get an answer to at least my first question.
Also: Is this a hardware problem (I could probably get another display, might this help?) or software?

To me it sounds like the digitizer on top of the screen has got something wrong with it. Did you perhaps drop or let your Wizard get hit? If so, it may have just barely cracked the glass digitizer, and that would cause your problem. I hope that helps some!

If your touchscreen (digitizer) seems to be intact, it's possible the ribbon cable has simply come lose. Sadly, this happens more frequently on the slider-type devices than on clam-shell on bar designs. I believe that's not an easy repair; I'm pretty sure HTC resistance welds their touchscreen ribbon cables directly to the LCD module.
If you're the type, you could try poking around with a soldering iron, but it may not do much good.
If you want to completely eradicate the on-startup calibration, you can overwrite Welcome.exe on the device; this will get rid of all the "Welcome to Windows Mobile" hoopla, as well as the first-time calibration. Good luck using an uncalibrated touchscreen, though.

put a file called welcome.not on your storage card in the root directory, this will skip the welcom and calibration after a hard reset.

hi,
first, thank you for all your comments so far.
in another thread somebody said that just cleaning the borders of the display might help. i disessembled my wizard (if you are interested in knowing how to do that, here's a page where it shows how to replace the display of a vario, it's in german though) an did just that (there was lots of dirt there), checked all cable connections, sadly it changed nothing.
so i will try to replace the whole display unit (that is, if i find one), hopefully this will help.
i will also try putting welcome.not onto my memory card (the file must contain nothing else, i suppose?), so to at least have control over my wizard using buttons. that i will do tomorrow, unfortunately i have no cardreader where i am right now.
i also thought that probably another solution (for getting access to my wizard, not for the calibration problem) could be possible. since i backed up my system just before the hard-reset (using sprite backup), i wonder if it is possible to somehow restore that backup without actually having to go into WM and the sprite backup program. is there a way to do that with just using the memory card with the backup on it?

page where it shows how to replace the display of a vario, it's in german though) an did just that (there was lots of dirt there), checked all cable connections, sadly it changed nothing.
so i will try to replace the whole display unit (that is, if i find one), hopefully this will help.
-------------------------------
FYI - I had a very similar problem, and I had to replace the whole LCD/Digitizer assembly. Not too expensive, but not very cheap either. Nonetheless, better then getting a whole new phone, as I had to do when my SX56 died

veda_sticks said:
put a file called welcome.not on your storage card in the root directory, this will skip the welcom and calibration after a hard reset.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that worked perfectly.
as for the original problem (de-calibration), that remains unsolved. after overriding the initial calibration attempt (using welcome.not) it was of course not possible to navigate WM with the stylus, just by using buttons. another attempt of calibration failed also, but that was to be expected, so i restored my backup, hoping to find myself right where i had started (still de-calibrated, but at least manageable until i get a replacement for my display unit).
surprisingly, after the backup restoration the display was as de-calibrated as before, right after the hard-reset (in other words totally). so where that leaves me now is with my original WM minus the possibility of stylus navigation (which sucks).
anyway, thanks again for all the help, i'll keep you posted when i get the replacement display unit.
btw, is there a way to calibrate my smartphone via my pc?

Well, there's no way to 'calibrate' it, and if your touchscreen is broken, this won't help, but just in case it's an odd software glitch, or your touchscreen is partially intact, I believe the calibration is stored in the registry.
I may be wrong, as I won't have my Wizard for testing until later this week, but if memory/google serves, the following registry tweak should give you a baseline calibration.
Code:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\HARDWARE\DEVICEMAP\TOUCH
"CalibrationData"="1922,1957 3330,639 3317,3276 600,3230 609,677 "
There are a number of remote registry editors that will allow you to edit this from the PC. If your touchscreen seems to work better with this edit, you can try tweaking the numbers manually- I believe it treats the touchscreen as matrix of 3900x3900 touch points, where lesser numbers are closer to the top right; the calibration numbers in the string are the X,Y coordinates of the points you touch for each of the five X's in order.

ktemkin said:
Well, there's no way to 'calibrate' it, and if your touchscreen is broken, this won't help, but just in case it's an odd software glitch, or your touchscreen is partially intact, I believe the calibration is stored in the registry.
I may be wrong, as I won't have my Wizard for testing until later this week, but if memory/google serves, the following registry tweak should give you a baseline calibration.
Code:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\HARDWARE\DEVICEMAP\TOUCH
"CalibrationData"="1922,1957 3330,639 3317,3276 600,3230 609,677 "
There are a number of remote registry editors that will allow you to edit this from the PC. If your touchscreen seems to work better with this edit, you can try tweaking the numbers manually- I believe it treats the touchscreen as matrix of 3900x3900 touch points, where lesser numbers are closer to the top right; the calibration numbers in the string are the X,Y coordinates of the points you touch for each of the five X's in order.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ingenious! with your help i was able to restore the calibration from above, so to at least be able to use my stylus again - at least to a certain extend, since the calibration coordinates you posted are not 100% precise and definitely need some tuning.
after a soft-reset to get the new registry values loaded (not just inserting the stylus into the reset hole, this way the new values are lost; you have to turn the device off and on again) i tried again to calibrate - it failed again, for the same reason as at the very beginning (clicks on the middle crosse were not accepted).
i have 2 explanations for this:
1.) my display unit IS damaged and simply does not accept clicks in that area
or
2.) the first coordinate is wrong.
i did some thinking and calculating on this. i don't fully agree with you when you say that the coordinates refer to the upper right corner. if you hold the device like you were using it (not in landscape mode), the point 0/0 is actually the one down RIGHT. only if you're thinking in landscape mode is it down left.
anyway, since the coordinates for the four corners seemed more or less ok (although i wondered why points on the same axis differ in their coordinates, which they shouldn't), i did some calculations and came up with these coordinates for the middle-point: 1361,1312
this is how i went about it:
(3330-609)/2=1360.5
(3230-607)/2=1311.5
i tried them (leaving the others as they were), but they horribly failed and i had to hard-reset my wizard to start all over.
still, i do not understand why the other coordinates seem to be correct, yet my calculation was wrong. 1922,1957 for the middle just seems totally wrong to me when i look at the other coordinates which work fine.
do you have any thoughts on that?
what would also be very helpful would be the actual coordinates from a wizard which is correctly calibrated. anyone reading this with a working wizard, please share them with us.

if you look at the screen using portrait orientation the UPPER RIGHT corner is 0,0. that's why the numbers for the final calibration cross (upper right) are the smallest.
you should have added instead of subtracted (then divide by 2 like you did) to get your midpoint.
If the upper left calibration cross is 3280 from the right side, and the upper right calibration cross is 620 from the right side (about the same distance the upper left is from the left side of the screen) that would mean you would have to ADD to get the total width. Your method yields the distance from calibration cross to calibration cross (divided by 2).
I think ktemkin is right, the matrix is about 3900x3900 with the mid point to be around 1950,1950
so a "PERFECT" calibration would be something like:
1950,1950 3280,620 3280,3280 620,3280 620,620.
Of course, the touch screen isn't perfectly aligned with the LED so we need to calibrate, and this is also why the numbers from a different phone don't quite work right for you.

hi again,
i got my replacement display-unit a few days ago (cost me 25,50€ on ebay, a pretty good deal, i guess) and just installed it into my wizard.
after booting up the calibration immediately worked, so, as i suspected, the display unit was the reason all along.
but that's not all, i want to share something else: when i first booted up with the new display unit, the colors on the display seemed somehow "wrong", as if the display was reduced to a lower amount of colors than it was supposed to have. my suspicion was confirmed when i loaded the waterfall picture that's by default in MyImages, it didn't look right at all.
i then remembered that such problems can occur on a pc when your screen is not correctly attached to your graphics card (maybe because your cat fell over the cable). this can happen when the connection to a single pin (or more than one) is not correctly established while the other pins work fine. this can result in the screen showing the usual images, but with strange colors.
i therefore dissassembled my wizard and checked all connections. i hadn't put the little plastic stripes over the connection cables where they are connected to at first, because i thought that those weren't really necessary if you got the connection right. but after checking all the connections, i made sure to put (as it should be) those little plastic stripes over the cables, securing the connection even more. after booting up, i sure got my screen working as it was supposed to.
so, finally, i thank you all for your help, i am very happy that i was able to repair my wizard, it now works perfectly again.
i did get myself a hermes some time ago, which now replaces my wizard, but hey, that really doesn't spoil the relief of having repaired the wizard. i now have to decide if i keep it as a replacement (in case something happens to my hermes) or sell it on ebay, now that it's working again.

Ciao!
first -> srr my english is terrible
i have dimond 1 and a had same problem. After Hardreset system want calibrate display and calibrate display and calibrate display........
I try take down folie (screen protector) and everything is fine
Its my solutions

Related

Algin Screen Loop (Problem) Please Advise

I will post my problem with the Himalaya XDA-II, wishing from the experts and colleagues to help me find a solution , since I live in a very bad country that provides ZERO maintenance, so I wish I find the cure in this awesome forum.
My story started when 2 drops of Tea, was spit on the LCD of the XDA-II, after which I tried to clean it, but in a very strange way the liquid went beneath the LCD and its protecting plastic screen, The factory one not an additional one like by Covertec or else.
I managed to open it and also using a cutter I opened the plastic seal and cleaned, after I put everything together and after using blower to dry and remains of the liquid, and when I fixed it back, I had the common (Align Screen), but when I configure the screen using the 5 points for setting up the display, it Just LOOPS and does not want to exit from this screen, I made this alignment like 30 times now but went all in vain, and I cant access the system, its locked to this screen, and when I touch in any place over the screen, the cursor move from one corner to another.
I tried to install (Pocket Controller 4.12 - Enterprise) so that I use its Built-In Task Manager, to close the (Align Screen) Task but also in vain.
When finally went to the dealer he told me I have to change the LCD with a new one which costs 300 $, which equals to the price of a used XDA-II. Is this fair?
This is my story wishing really from all of my heart that somebody helps me. And I'll never forget this favor ever.
Thanx
Willy
Although not an XDA specialist, the calibration should follow the standard way.
The device starts and looks for calibration data in [HKLM]\HARDWARE\DEVICEMAP\TOUCH. If it is not there, the calibration screen will show. There is another file \Welcome.net, which will control, wether you have to make the Dr. Johnson Test.
My idea now is, that you create the calibration data automatically, so the device will overcome the calibration screen. As I dont have the normal calibration data, I can only provide dummy data.
Beside this, the calib screen will not accept your calibration, if the taps are outside a maximum tolerance.
Enclosed is a tool called NoWelcome.exe, copy this with the name AutoRun.exe into the dir 2577 of a memory card and insert the card before or after you switch on the device.
I hope, that will you get further
Josef
Be aware, if the touch screen is misaligned, you will have problems hitting anything.
source code:
Interesting utility from Hjgode! But in this case I think the touch screen is out of order. Even you can bypass the welcome screen you can no longer use this touch screen for interacting with the device.
There are 2 parts in a LCD Screen: a display screen and a touch one. You can safely disassemble these two parts, clean them and assemble them to use again. But there are still 2 parts in a Touchscreen: a plastic sheet and a glass one. I am in doubt if you can use them again once you seperate them out.
Of course 300$ for a LCD Screen is too expensive! Any way, in this case you have to change only the touch sceen but not the whole screen and it usually costs less than 100$.

Vario II Touch Screen goes off :(

Hello
I bought mine Vario II (with CoPilot) just 8 days ago, so I've enjoyed it quite a lot for the past days
yet .. ~30 hours ago I found out that the touch screen was not responding at all .. well restart did not help, getting the battery out and putting it back again didn't help too ... I tried to do EVERYTHING with the thing ... starting with restoring factory settings (all the data! ) , ending with browsing the forums for common failures ...
Finally I ended up with the very start page where the Vario II asks for tapping the screen (irony huh ?) to start setting it up ..
Since I was not able to make it work again (the whole thing seemed to be working fine ... just the touch screen ... ) so I brought it to the local T-Mobile shop today in the morning.. guess what, the guy at the shop just removed the battery and put it back again (I've done that XXX times during the night) AND IT STARTED WORKING again ... I couldn't understand anything there, felt really lame
anyway after I've left the shop and used it for quite a bit it started again .. now I've kind of figured it out .. when I'm using the device actively (the temp raises) and it starts at the top right corner of the screen .. the touch screen just flickers there and then after a minute or so it doesn't respond at all any more .. if I just put it away and don't use it - the screen responds again after some time ...
NOW finally the question is: has anyone had any problems with Vario II like I do? I ought to think that it is a somewhat faulty device that I've got (it hasn't been physically damaged)
PS the touch-screen gets stagnant faster with bigger programs (CoPilot, Skype, etc...) and it takes some time to get stuck with just using the phone...
btw I've put a temperature thingy in the device - it shows that the battery temp is at 42 C . Isn't that a bit too much ?
yeah and how do I figure out what version it is ? I mean the S/N that is mentioned here ( http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=Hermes_Problems )
?
wundis said:
anyway after I've left the shop and used it for quite a bit it started again .. now I've kind of figured it out .. when I'm using the device actively (the temp raises) and it starts at the top right corner of the screen .. the touch screen just flickers there and then after a minute or so it doesn't respond at all any more .. if I just put it away and don't use it - the screen responds again after some time ...
NOW finally the question is: has anyone had any problems with Vario II like I do? I ought to think that it is a somewhat faulty device that I've got (it hasn't been physically damaged)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, one of my Hermes' had the exact same problem - touch screen malfunction starting at the upper right corner when temperature rose. The usual tricks to solve the screen alignment problem (loosening the screws, removing the gasket with a stripe of a business card) didn't help at all. I returned the device and got a new one.
yeah and how do I figure out what version it is ? I mean the S/N that is mentioned here ( http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=Hermes_Problems )
?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's printed on the box (at least of an O2 Trion) and on the sticker underneath the battery. Just look for the S/N starting with HTC6xx... but "our" defect is not the normal SA problem, it seems to be much rarer and not described in the Wiki.
Cheers
Daniel
Thank you so much for the answer Daniel, I'll get them to change it tomorrow.
I have exactly the same problem with my TyTN. In the morning, after the phone has been off all night, the touchscreen works for maybe 30mins, then the phone warms up and the screen ceases functioning. Bizarre though - I got the phone about two weeks ago - the screen worked fine (i.e. under all temp. conditions) for about 7 days, then it decided to crap out. Tried all the usual SA type solutions - as you guys noted above they didn't work. Gonna have to go back to the shop and get it replaced :-(
Oh, nearly forgot, s/n is HT632
One other thing I noticed (not sure if this is normal behavior or if it started after the touchscreen borked) - When the phone is active (i.e. not locked or in standby,) the top status leds (wifi, bluetooth, gsm) don't flash. Once the device is put in standby (i.e. tapping the power button) they start flashing again. Like I said, not sure if this is normal or if its related to the touchscreen going.
Vrobenmat said:
One other thing I noticed (not sure if this is normal behavior or if it started after the touchscreen borked) - When the phone is active (i.e. not locked or in standby,) the top status leds (wifi, bluetooth, gsm) don't flash.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is definitely not normal. But it's an interesting observation. If the TyTN were a car, I'd say there's a bad ground connection somewhere.
Try a hard reset, and if that doesn't solve the problem, have it exchanged. (I very much doubt that a hard reset will help, but at least here customer service refuses to exchange a device before you tried a hard reset. )
Cheers
Daniel
Hard reset borked even more. Could't get past the touch screen calibration. Phone is now in the freezer to cool down - hopefully the touch screen will work long enough so I can get past the calibration
*EDIT* Just got it out the freezer (nice and cold now.) Hard reset, got through the calibration, everything ok for about 10 mins. LED's flashing with backlight on and touchscreen working. Then - touchscreen non-responsive at exactly the same time the status LED's cut out. I'm hypothesising that there's some kind of electrical short between the circuitry for the touchpad and the status LED's - it shorts as the devices temperature rises and (i guess) some of the materials expand and come into contact with each other. Since I don't want to void my warranty in case I have to take the phone back to the store, I haven't opened it up to confirm this. Has anyone had a detailed look at the connections at the top of the screen and around the status LED's to see if my explanation is at least possible? (then I might open it up and see if I can insulate the connections.)
tadzio said:
Yes, one of my Hermes' had the exact same problem - touch screen malfunction starting at the upper right corner when temperature rose. The usual tricks to solve the screen alignment problem (loosening the screws, removing the gasket with a stripe of a business card) didn't help at all. I returned the device and got a new one.
It's printed on the box (at least of an O2 Trion) and on the sticker underneath the battery. Just look for the S/N starting with HTC6xx... but "our" defect is not the normal SA problem, it seems to be much rarer and not described in the Wiki.
Cheers
Daniel
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the exact same problem!!
Two additional points :
1) my device screen will not switch off automaticaly and will stay on for ever unless I switch it off
2) When the issue manifests itself for the first time the device would automaticaly go back to the today screen like if the OK button would have been pressed many time or ... was stuck!!
That's my second Tytn device the first one had the SA defect.
I was so happy when I got my new one because the S/N showed HTC637XXX but sounds like a new issue even though I'm pretty convince that that the SA issue is not far from being related to this one.
My device SPV3100 HERM100
Hello lads,
Absolutely everything you've posted seems to be happening to my device.
Now the touch screen fails to respond even if it's cold (been lying on the bed for 5 hours doing nothing at all .. ). damn... seems like I'll have to ask the local shop to get me a free portable refrigerator for the thing to work properly
HT645
Vrobenmat said:
Hard reset borked even more. Could't get past the touch screen calibration. Phone is now in the freezer to cool down - hopefully the touch screen will work long enough so I can get past the calibration
*EDIT* Just got it out the freezer (nice and cold now.) Hard reset, got through the calibration, everything ok for about 10 mins. LED's flashing with backlight on and touchscreen working. Then - touchscreen non-responsive at exactly the same time the status LED's cut out. I'm hypothesising that there's some kind of electrical short between the circuitry for the touchpad and the status LED's - it shorts as the devices temperature rises and (i guess) some of the materials expand and come into contact with each other. Since I don't want to void my warranty in case I have to take the phone back to the store, I haven't opened it up to confirm this. Has anyone had a detailed look at the connections at the top of the screen and around the status LED's to see if my explanation is at least possible? (then I might open it up and see if I can insulate the connections.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Might get a chance to have an internal look tomorrow. From memory, and can't remember if the Wiki or Japanese dismantling site shows this, but I recall only a single mylar ribbon cable coming from screen area through to main board. There are if memory serves push in multi connectors from the bottom hard keypad and from front camera board (inc LEDs) to the muti ribbon cable on the back of the screen. Thus, simply put the screen, camera,hard phone keys all connect at the back of the screen to a single multi ribbon cable that goes to main board. Possibility then of a short with digitizer is at least possible. Of course digitizers are suceptible to current leakage and field interference so would not have to be an actual physical contact but could just be a close proximity issue.
Mike
Facing the same problems...
... I've been thinking about repalcing the display and the touchscreen. But now, considering that it is a HW issue, I can only replace these two things. If the bug is in the module above the screen (statur leds and camera) or related to the wireing at the back of the screen, it won't get rid of the problem. On the other hand, if it is a problem with the screen getting too hot, then I'm on the right track...
Has anyone tried this yet?
I'll try to call HTC on monday, maybe they know where the bug is.
HTC is not able or not willing to share what they know about the problem...
Hello, they excuse my English, I am possessor of a TYNT and I am with he himself problem that you, the problem is a failure of weld in the processador, when it reaches certain temperature fails and cooling it or pressing strongly on the processor it lets fail.
Greetings.
ezbook said:
Hello, they excuse my English, I am possessor of a TYNT and I am with he himself problem that you, the problem is a failure of weld in the processador, when it reaches certain temperature fails and cooling it or pressing strongly on the processor it lets fail.
Greetings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There may well be truth in what you say, I too believe it is something similar in some cases.
Do you have any proof of your suggestion. Can you provide pics or a diagram of the solder point you mean??
Mike
Hmm? The processor...?
...sorry, don't think so.
It's just that this bug occurs after using a device for months, isn't it?
Now, the first two weeks I installed all kind of programs using the wireless LAN almost permanently. My Hermes was never as "hot" as during its first two weeks. And what about the sliding-out of the keyboard? Doesn’t it always start there? This just doesn't sound right, does it?
Just received an email from someone who drew my attention to the ribbon cable connecting the upper and the lower part. What if there is a short one due to the plastic scratching the cable and then... who knows?
However, I do not disagree as far as the temp is concerned. Therefore, I'll put my Hermes on ice and see how long it does things right...
And still, there is no chance that it is related to the processor. If the processors ALU is getting too hot the entire device would be effected, wouldn’t it?
Anyways, I'm determined to find out what it is!
++ I just found a very peculiar post in the WIZARD forum. It was about some top-side buttons that kept pressing
++ without even touching… Opening the assigned programs over and over again. Odd, isn’t it?
++ That’s a HTC device AND has a sliding keyboard with a ribbon cable as a connector…
++ Yet, it operates with a different processor on a different main board.
++
++ Still blaming the processor?
microft said:
...sorry, don't think so.
It's just that this bug occurs after using a device for months, isn't it?
Now, the first two weeks I installed all kind of programs using the wireless LAN almost permanently. My Hermes was never as "hot" as during its first two weeks. And what about the sliding-out of the keyboard? Doesn’t it always start there? This just doesn't sound right, does it?
Just received an email from someone who drew my attention to the ribbon cable connecting the upper and the lower part. What if there is a short one due to the plastic scratching the cable and then... who knows?
However, I do not disagree as far as the temp is concerned. Therefore, I'll put my Hermes on ice and see how long it does things right...
And still, there is no chance that it is related to the processor. If the processors ALU is getting too hot the entire device would be effected, wouldn’t it?
Anyways, I'm determined to find out what it is!
++ I just found a very peculiar post in the WIZARD forum. It was about some top-side buttons that kept pressing
++ without even touching… Opening the assigned programs over and over again. Odd, isn’t it?
++ That’s a HTC device AND has a sliding keyboard with a ribbon cable as a connector…
++ Yet, it operates with a different processor on a different main board.
++
++ Still blaming the processor?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And you are right too! if it appears that I am tending to agree with both above posts when on the face of it they disagree with each other it's because:
1
There are different manifestations of this problem - the causes may not always be the same
2
I agree it's NOT the processor and firmly believe it's hardware related. Of course it could be be a break (sometimes intermittent) in contact somewhere between screen and board or even a broken contact on the board (IN SOME CASES)
3
In other cases it's just pressure being put on the touch sensitive screen often at the very inconvenient top right corner that closes/minimises applications or opens start menu.
There has not been a reliable way to fix this issue other than device replacement. Replacing the screen has been notable for it's failure to resolve the issue.
Mike
mikechannon said:
And you are right too! if it appears that I am tending to agree with both above posts when on the face of it they disagree with each other it's because:
1
There are different manifestations of this problem - the causes may not always be the same
2
I agree it's NOT the processor and firmly believe it's hardware related. Of course it could be be a break (sometimes intermittent) in contact somewhere between screen and board or even a broken contact on the board (IN SOME CASES)
3
In other cases it's just pressure being put on the touch sensitive screen often at the very inconvenient top right corner that closes/minimises applications or opens start menu.
There has not been a reliable way to fix this issue other than device replacement. Replacing the screen has been notable for it's failure to resolve the issue.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So do you think the bug is to be found on the main board at all?
I'm planning to replace some parts from the screen half. In fact there are just 3 possible error sources:
1) The lcd in combination with the digitalizer;
2) The ribbon cable connecting screen parts and keypad at bottom; and
3) The keypad at the bottom itself
The ribbon cable includs the electronics for the status leds as well as the EARphone. ;-)
Soon I will be on all three of the above parts and if the error ain't there... I'm going to be MAD.
Will keep you IN THE LOOP!
Hello again, my conclusion is based on which I have disassembled my TYNT completely and I have connected it without the keyboard, of this form I have hoped to that it began to fail, later I have been moving and touching in any case the flat cable that unites the motherboard with the screen, the small circuit that takes built-in without obtaining results, single I have even obtained that it returns to work blowing air on the strongly pressed processor or on. Another observation is that if just ignited the machine and working correctly we applied single heat on the processor, begins to fail the touch screen. To my also is to me strange east failure since the temperature of the processor is not excessive when it fails, in fact desire firmly to be mistaken because there am lost the guarantee. Seguire investigating is matendre informed to you.
Greetings.
microft said:
So do you think the bug is to be found on the main board at all?
I'm planning to replace some parts from the screen half. In fact there are just 3 possible error sources:
1) The lcd in combination with the digitalizer;
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
May be a fault there, but if it's just a squeeze due to heat ? pressure it may not resolve the issue.
2) The ribbon cable connecting screen parts and keypad at bottom; and
3) The keypad at the bottom itself
The ribbon cable includs the electronics for the status leds as well as the microphone.
Soon I will be on all three of the above parts and if the error ain't there... I'm going to be MAD.
Will keep you IN THE LOOP!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I assume you mean earphone above as the microphone is on the mainboard.
Mike
Again I have tested, with the disassembled machine totally, start up it, I hope to that the touch screen does not respond and I put my tynt in the refrigerator, after two minutes and without moving I touch it the screen and magic, works correctly hata that again coje the room temperature.
Greetings.
ezbook said:
Hello again, my conclusion is based on which I have disassembled my TYNT completely and I have connected it without the keyboard, of this form I have hoped to that it began to fail, later I have been moving and touching in any case the flat cable that unites the motherboard with the screen, the small circuit that takes built-in without obtaining results, single I have even obtained that it returns to work blowing air on the strongly pressed processor or on. Another observation is that if just ignited the machine and working correctly we applied single heat on the processor, begins to fail the touch screen. To my also is to me strange east failure since the temperature of the processor is not excessive when it fails, in fact desire firmly to be mistaken because there am lost the guarantee. Seguire investigating is matendre informed to you.
Greetings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is very interesting. When I said above it is not the processor, I meant it is not a software issue related to the processor. It can of course be a heat related problem with the processor. To summarise what you have found:
1
You have a device that when first started works OK
2
If you apply heat (but not much) to the processor it fails
3
If you apply pressure to the processor it works again
4
It begins working again when you blow on the processor or put it in the fridge.
5
If you move/press or ensure the ribbon cable has a firm contact - this has no effect.
Please post if any of the above is NOT correct ALSO please post which chip you are heating/pressing.
Cheers
Mike
Hello again, everything is correct except point 3 really when this failing and you press on the then microprocessor the touch screen works correctly. Associate images.
Greetings.
EDIT by Mike. Point 3 has been edited in Mike's post to show the correct situation.

Touchscreen dead (most of the time)

Hej,
the touchscreen of my O2 XDA Neo is dead... most of the time. After a long time (i.e. can't be told exactly) not using it, it works for a few strokes, so I can get the phone to run. Rapidly it changes then, first the right half of the screen ceases to work (nearly exactly the right half, fiddling with notes or align screen shows that), soon the whole screen doesn't react. Some time later it may work again.
Some of the software can be used by using only the navigation buttons, lot of the software (including dialing arbitrary numbers) can't.
Is there any way out? As the warranty is void, I don't hesitate to open the device, if it may help. But I guess it is not as simple as increasing or decreasing the pressure on the screens edges...
Or is there any input software that uses the navigation keys? The standard soft keyboard can't be used this way, the other additional keyboards I found surfing the net don't have this possibility too. (Is there a board here to ask for software for a specific OS? Or where is a good playce to do this?)
Thanks
Inmare
In short, sometimes it's working and sometimes it's not?
Maybe there is a loose connection somewhere? Although I'm afraid it won't be that easy, but who knows. Guess a touchscreen is quite a delicate piece of electronics.
I'm afraid I don't know any software for typing and stuff and using the keyboard with your keys etc.
It does for for some (short) time, then ceases to work - sometimes at once, sometimes slowly (first the right half, after some time the left).
I don't expect to be able to repair a defective touchscreen; I hope it's just a loose connector or such... this device uses star shaped screws smaller than grade 9, I have to get appropriate tools tomorrow (i.e. today as it is past 12pm... so yesterday is today too... so I already bought the tools yesterday? I need a digital diary again to keep track of this ). Lets see if I can get the device to be reliable again.
The digitizers are sold on eBay (example) for not much. Not sure how to install them tho.
Interesting. At least I now know the size of the screwdriver. And I see the connector... I think it is worth the try.
Here you can see the inside of the device. Looks like the digitizer and the display are packed together within a metal case, but maybe it is just the connector. Otherwise I will have to open this too.
I think I will do this in the far future. Next year
Thank you.
Hi Inmare,
is there any improvement
because I have the same problem with my jamin
what should I do?

[Q] Resetting the phone without screen OR making the screen work again?

I've got a Samsung Focus that no longer has a working display. It seems the rest of the phone functions perfectly, but I'm unable to see what is happening. I think the display is recoverable, but I'm not positive (it's almost like there's no power being sent to it).
So when I connect to Zune software, I'm unable to view my phone contents because I have a lock pin. This becomes problematic with a non-working display. So one solution to my problem is how can I remove this code OR factory reset my phone without getting screen conformations.
Secondly, would it be worth an investment to repair the screen by buying a new one? It seems to be about ~$130 online for new displays and I'm very comfortable doing modifications like this with mobile devices
Thanks!
JoelLarson said:
I've got a Samsung Focus that no longer has a working display. It seems the rest of the phone functions perfectly, but I'm unable to see what is happening. I think the display is recoverable, but I'm not positive (it's almost like there's no power being sent to it).
So when I connect to Zune software, I'm unable to view my phone contents because I have a lock pin. This becomes problematic with a non-working display. So one solution to my problem is how can I remove this code OR factory reset my phone without getting screen conformations.
Secondly, would it be worth an investment to repair the screen by buying a new one? It seems to be about ~$130 online for new displays and I'm very comfortable doing modifications like this with mobile devices
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What I suggest is read the diagnisis codes thread and see if you find something useful there (code, advice). Personally, I haven't heard of any code disabling the screen but there might be one. The hard reset combo from the wiki should cover that too, I think.
Now, that being said, I see 3 possibilities, higher probability first:
1. screen is damaged (and/or possibly something else). if it's broken, you can confirm.
2. screen connector/cord is loose (should be easy to fix)
3. software/code issue
1 is hardware repair
2 is easy fix, still hardware
3 is easier fix. here, you need a secondary phone, identical. you can perform the exact steps side-by-side to copy/make sure you got it right.
I know it's not a loose connector issue. I've triple checked that and have rubbed it all down in alcohol to make sure it wasn't a dirt issue. I also cannot do anything that requires the digiplex as none of it seems to be registered.
Things that work for sure:
Sound (internal speaker)
Power Button
Volume Buttons
Touch buttons on the front at the bottom (by windows key)
So the screen doesn't work but it's not broken?

[Q] NSTwGlowlight, half IR sensors acts wrong

Hi,
I have recently bough a Nook Simple Touch with Glowlight (BNRV350). Used, no guarantee. It looks fine (has only a minor scratch on the light dispersing layer). Problem is - the lower half of the touch sensors give misplaced readings. For example - during the registration process I cannot get through the language selection screen. I can correctly mark English, but when I want to press an arrow to go further, Nook changes my mark to French, instead of getting me to the next screen. Cleaning borders of the screen with microfiber cloth and cotton swabs did not help.
I have another NSTG working fine, so:
1. I tried to copy its stock system backup and loading it to malfunctioning one. It didn't help. I could not even unlock the screen (although I could press "power off" or "cancel" buttons after holding power button).
2. I tried swapping mainboards (IR sensors are on them, not in the screen assembly). And It turned out, that wherever mainboard of the faulty unit is, the touch does not work properly. I tried to blow out the dust from those misbehaving sensors hoping that it just somehow got on the motherboard, but it did not help either.
So the question is: What else can I do to make those IR sensors work properly?
Thanks in advance for looking into the problem!
(Sorry for my English, I'm used to reading, not to expressing my thoughts with it.)
Maybe try to look on the sensors with a cellphone camera in dark room-then probably you will see which of the ir leds aren't working (if the problem is in leds not the sensors)
Sent from my Lenovo P780 using Tapatalk
Unfortunately I couldn't find any camera able (tried mobile phone, point'n'shoot, DSLR...) to detect IR in their stock configuration (and messing up with disassembling the sensor filters seemed as not worth the case). I ended up buying another NSTG with shattered eink screen and salvaging its properly working mainboard (+completely fine battery, all for about $7). Problem solved. Kind of.
If you are having problems with the touch screen try using the app posted here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=52723066#post52723066
It may give you insight into where the problem is.
It will help us get an idea of where problems are occurring.
Thank You. I've read about Your program, but since I could not even unlock the screen or get past registration wizard (when trying to get that unit to factory state) I was unable to use it.
The Menu button (when you mapped) gets past the swipe.
You can start stuff with ADB intents.

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