I have seen that you can create infrared transmitters with a 3.5mm jack + 2 infrared LED and connect it to your smartphone .. In this way you can use it as a remote control for the TV? <br />
What other types of devices can be created with a jack?
What other kind of things can you do with a jack?
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While I am sure that this is kind of theoretically possible, there are a few problems.
The first is getting enough voltage, you'll need ~ 1.5V to get things lit tolerably.
Real IR remotes use up to 100 mA peak current.
IR remotes work on a carrier of 38.4 to 40 kHz.
That means that your 44.1 or 48 kS/sec is not going to work, you'll need 96 kS/sec.
Even at that sample rate who says the output stage will work at these frequencies?
A serial port is a more useful way into this.
You'd still need a LED driver if you want any sort of range.
So is it possible to have an IR transmittor on a nexus 5?
Connecting two LEDs back to back across the two channels of the headphone will get you basically a frequency doubler.
You should be able to get this working with a 19 kHz carrier if the left & right channel are 180 degree out of phase.
The LEDs will light alternatively on the positive and negative peaks.
Clever.
By googling I see alot of stuff on this.
There are problems with getting enough oomph out of the headphone jack.
Somebody makes something with a battery and an amp in it, but that's getting bulky.
If you get this working, you are going to have to point it directly at the device.
The range may be incredibly small.
If I wanted something like this I would take a Raspberry Pi, stick it on the home network and have it drive an LED taped to the front panel of the A/V device.
Have your app just connect on WiFi.
At least you wouldn't have to point your Android in a specific direction nor plug in a little thingie that you always lose.
There are also pre-built solutions like this.
HERE are all the details of how you do it. Including wave files.
However, the second picture says its also a receiver, but that
is not true since the picture depics two LEDs. What is particularly
cool with that, is that it allows you to send the secret codes to
get to your TV's engineering menu (phhuh...) where you can do
things like update some TVs to versions with more features etc.
OR you can just get a phone with built-in IR LED, like the I9195, for
which when you do the magic *#0# take you to a factory test app
that include a Samsung compatible Remote control.
What would be more interesting, would be if someone could hack
the Samsung WatchON App so that we can use it for arbitrary
IR links and not just TVs.
Related
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Ok so someone hacked the audio and charging in the ipod dock and made it work with a extUSB. Anyone up for making an adapter that lets u access video, audio, and charging capabilities of an iPod?? Using a extUSB and a female iPod connector?
and a custom mold?
Resources:
1 is USB Power +5v in
5 is USB Ground -
6 is Left Audio +
7 is marked “AG” on the HTC headset board, connect this one to pin 8 to enable audio.
8 is Audio Ground -
10 is Right Audio +
Now we wire the two connectors together like so:
iPod pin - HTC ExtUSB pin
1 ———— 8
3 ———— 10
4 ———— 6
16 ———— 5
23 ———— 1
Solder together pins 1 & 2 on the iPod side and pins 7 & 8 on the extUSB
Original Project Page
iPod Female Adapter
extUSB
Custom Mold
Just what I'm looking for. If you have better instruction, I'll do it
http://www.webnetta.com/2008/12/27/hack-connects-t-mobile-g1-to-ipod-dock/
i was thinking about someway to do that. it would be easier if there was a premade extusb (port on touchpro, android, other htc phones) to the ipod dock for sale.
True. I've heard talk that a mass production is being started, but I dont think it'll be anytime soon.
Basically I just looked into this. Later today, I'll be looking into actually making it.
This is what is needed to finally justify the way too easy to break non-standard plug.
Audio adapter? Eh, okay, I've used it... A few times... I'd rather use the bluetooth audio.
What would be nice, is for this idea to take off, and also to be able to have a dock like the zune has with the video out. Hell, at that point I'd honestly forget why I ever carried my zune.
Subscribing. Not because I have the time or ability to make this, but I want to see what I can do to help the idea take off.
I'm installing an HTC flyer in my car permanently where the radio would go (2DIN mounting), but kind of sad at the prospect of losing camera functions (video of dashboard interiors are boring).
So, what would be involved in removing the camera module and placing it somewhere else, as the dash for example? Would I just need to unsolder the camera module, solder on a whole bunch of cables, and connect them to the same contacts? Or am I barking up the wrong tree?
Alternatively, if a device has USB OTG capabilities, is there any way to make it talk to a regular USB webcam?
Discuss
Alot of research could go into what you're trying to do.......
However, I'd recommend just trying it and see what happens. Make sure your wires are all the same length.
So yeah.. In this situation, i think the Leroy Jenkins approach is appropriate.
AdamOutler said:
So yeah.. In this situation, i think the Leroy Jenkins approach is appropriate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
PRICELESS!! lmao. @OP, awesome idea for the in dash flyer. Please post some completed pics!
have you thought about removing the camera from the back ad making "jumper cables" to put it up front? you might need something to make a housing for it to sit in the dash, but it would be better than writing a driver for it.
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The thing is in adding(soldering?) 2 proper connectors to longer flex IMO, hard to do at home, but nothing is impossible. ^^
About OTG connecting - you'd probably use universal WebCam drivers from Ubuntu for eg. though the problem would be in powering that I think, WebCam has to be OTG compliant (with external power connector maybe?) or you'd need some special adapter, the rest is redirecting Android to use your webcam, but don't think it's hard comparing to other things.
I did this with a fascinate in my 87 BMW 325ic
I bought 2 extra cameras ( paid $16ea somewhere, cant remember off hand)
I failed at getting it to work myself as I suck at soldering.
However-
I had a friend take it into work and solder it in for me. We then took a light sensor from a 4th gen camaro , mounted it on my dash, ran the cam there, installed the phone and f-in-a . it was sweet.
this lasted for a full 3 weeks until something came undone and now the cam doesnt work. Ive switched back to the stock deck and just wired a bluetooth receiver into the tape deck, mounted a droid x down by the ashtray and it works. Not as great as what I had, but it works.
Point being, it can be done. and its pretty sweet when done right.
grab fried boards from ebay and start from there.
Wait some more weeks, cotula is developing usb host mode driver, and he has developed a working driver. Its for android. It will be available soon to public when he corrects the errors.
So u can simply plug in an usb cam to ur phone( providing only external power supplay is needed.) So u can do it with out bricking ur phone. Till then use it as a phone..
send from my hd2 @ miui 1.12.2
Hi All!
I bought a N4 off ebay that had its back replaced, here is what the listing said, "This phone has a replacement back glass WITHOUT wireless charging or NFC capabilities." which I dont really care about but my WIFI range and GPS is terrible.
I've tried multiple kernels and roms *including complete stock everything*
Its not my setup as my HTC one s, multiple laptops, wii, ipod, ect,ect all work perfect on my Asus Router rt-n66u.
Does anyone have anything I can try?
Also have a thread up for my gps : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2365187
Thanks for reading!
Since the replacement back does not support NFC or wireless charging, do you think it was suitable to support any other wireless feature that was designed for the Nexus 4? Does Bluetooth suffer the same reduced sensitivity? If the replacement back is not made of similar materials withsimilar characteristics as the original back it might be absorbing or reflecting signals, interferring with proper wireless recepton.
stevemw said:
Since the replacement back does not support NFC or wireless charging, do you think it was suitable to support any other wireless feature that was designed for the Nexus 4? Does Bluetooth suffer the same reduced sensitivity? If the replacement back is not made of similar materials withsimilar characteristics as the original back it might be absorbing or reflecting signals, interferring with proper wireless recepton.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well thats my fear,
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2257896
Looking at this post it looks like whoever replaced this phones cover didn't transfer over the copper attenna's , that would be my guess and would explain my horrible wifi and GPS ... luckily my phone reception is good.
I'll have to open up my back now and take a look... now to have a T5 screwdriver at work..
Unfortunately cant find a t5 here at work , I'll have to wait till I get home.
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Looking at this image looks like I should only be missing the top right 2 antennas for Band 5 , GPS, WLAN, BT. I assume I have the other 2 antenna's as my phone reception is good .
Anyone know where I can buy just the antenna's?
.
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This is in the concept stage. There are no guarantees.
I am converting my Ipod classic to use a series of SD cards, and I picked up a spare iPod for cheap. This is going to be my work log for removing the stock 30 pin connector and replacing it with a USB C connector. I'll need to design and 3d print the bottom cover of the device except where the connector is. I'm not even sure if there's enough room on the board for this to happen, I might end up needing to cut into the iPod board and do tracing stuff to make room.
One thing I'm wondering is if I can attach the firewire of the iPod to the firewire of the USB c port. I think I'll try to make a 30pin connector to USB C to test and see if there's any advantage before I attach anything to the board itself.
http://pinouts.ru/PortableDevices/ipod_pinout.shtml
https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aovh5.png
https://www.mill-max.com/assets/pdfs/149.2.pdf
update 12/20/2018
I have a 3d printer now, and the dev boards have arrived.
Reserved2
Please update your work log!
I thought I was the only one wishing to upgrade my port along with my other mods to my ipod. I'm curious as to how you did it and what steps you took to make it happen! Following for future updates.
tkillen96 said:
I thought I was the only one wishing to upgrade my port along with my other mods to my ipod. I'm curious as to how you did it and what steps you took to make it happen! Following for future updates.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately I'm stuck. I've tried translating the pins from one to another, but nothing I've tried works. It does not recognize it.
If someone knows what pins to what to make the conversion, all I care about is making sure it can still charge and sync. Not the other 30 pin features.
Any updates to this?
DR650SE said:
Any updates to this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Am wondering the same, has anyone else attempted this? Wonder if there's a QI adapter anywhere. Would love to get rid of the crappy charging cable it requires.
Great project any news
lets reignite this project !
Save the BS and simplify it, just 4 pins, "D+", "D-", "5V+" and "GND", these are all we need to charge and transfer data.
What was the road block here? just unable to obtain USB connection ? Type C is a little tricky as it has a parallel design like lightning. Maybe you had got the pinout jumbled or connected one side in reverse? Ordering some test boards and Type C port components to see what i can achieve!
https://www.theiphonewiki.com/wiki/30-pin_Connector
Someone else commented about QI charging, it is entirely possible and would not be very difficult to do, the only problem is the iPod has a solid metal back so it would need a custom manufactured back replacement. I absolutely love the idea but i dont think anyone has the money/time/resources to design, manufacture the parts required. Because even if they did they would be sitting on it for a very long time with very limited sales(not to mention how many different variations.)
Hi Guys
I had a 2007 Mini Cooper Chilli with a non-functional radio, and went through the tons-of-fun disassembly and removal of the unit to put in this TS7 Android head unit with a view to running wired Carplay. The good news is that the onboard Amp is still functional, and I have a partly disassembled dash, a bucket of trim screws, and surprisingly good sound, with WiFi, GPS functional and playing MP3s from a USB stick in an unpowered hub.
My approach is to get everything working in Android mode first (using the house WiFi to access the internet), make sure I have a backup, then try to implement Carplay using TLink5, so idiot's guides to the best practise would be much appreciated.
The bad news is that there are a few weirdnesses - the unit currently starts up with the seat indicator lit, an alarm ringing which either times out or can be reset with the emergency flasher (go figure), but thereafter none of the arc of indicators (things like fullbeam) work, despite the speed and fuel arcs being lit and functional. So I suspect the CANBus mapping.
USB may be a little flaky (and was with only a USB stick prior to the hub) as it seems to want the stick pulled and restored after startup to register it. Running two cameras in a Mini is probably overkill. The front camera (on the 6-pin USB port) seems to have gotten over a snit whereby it refused to admit the SD card existed, then disappeared itself; video for the rear is working whilst I mount it - not sure if only one USB port can be used at once, in which case Spotify is fine rather than a stick - hopefully the front cam continues to record to its SD card. There were some internal plugins between the display unit and the head unit (unless I fell victim to 'the cable fits, so plug it in syndrome'. I tapped the reverse line to present to the camera (may need a relay) and glued and powered the dinky fan (we're tropical here).
So, back to the indicator lights. I updated the MCU (the main software was up-to-date), and I have the access codes, but when I look for the appropriate car, I can't find it (and have no clue what the 00 General; 03 Simple Soft; 13 Binary; 02 Raise etc mean or do). Mini Cooper should reside under BMW - any clues here? Getting hardware indicators running is probably a more tricky operation then mapping steering controls (the left-hand cluster and phone controls are fully functional, although the other set is not).
Many thanks in advance
Neil
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Just a quick add: looks as though the audible alarms were door and seatbelt, but when things change (lights on for example, I get a pic of two seats back-to-back, rear seats and a lock, and an AC setting bar. Also the photo shows the unit style - I have the 2G/64G TS7.