Hi Guys
I had a 2007 Mini Cooper Chilli with a non-functional radio, and went through the tons-of-fun disassembly and removal of the unit to put in this TS7 Android head unit with a view to running wired Carplay. The good news is that the onboard Amp is still functional, and I have a partly disassembled dash, a bucket of trim screws, and surprisingly good sound, with WiFi, GPS functional and playing MP3s from a USB stick in an unpowered hub.
My approach is to get everything working in Android mode first (using the house WiFi to access the internet), make sure I have a backup, then try to implement Carplay using TLink5, so idiot's guides to the best practise would be much appreciated.
The bad news is that there are a few weirdnesses - the unit currently starts up with the seat indicator lit, an alarm ringing which either times out or can be reset with the emergency flasher (go figure), but thereafter none of the arc of indicators (things like fullbeam) work, despite the speed and fuel arcs being lit and functional. So I suspect the CANBus mapping.
USB may be a little flaky (and was with only a USB stick prior to the hub) as it seems to want the stick pulled and restored after startup to register it. Running two cameras in a Mini is probably overkill. The front camera (on the 6-pin USB port) seems to have gotten over a snit whereby it refused to admit the SD card existed, then disappeared itself; video for the rear is working whilst I mount it - not sure if only one USB port can be used at once, in which case Spotify is fine rather than a stick - hopefully the front cam continues to record to its SD card. There were some internal plugins between the display unit and the head unit (unless I fell victim to 'the cable fits, so plug it in syndrome'. I tapped the reverse line to present to the camera (may need a relay) and glued and powered the dinky fan (we're tropical here).
So, back to the indicator lights. I updated the MCU (the main software was up-to-date), and I have the access codes, but when I look for the appropriate car, I can't find it (and have no clue what the 00 General; 03 Simple Soft; 13 Binary; 02 Raise etc mean or do). Mini Cooper should reside under BMW - any clues here? Getting hardware indicators running is probably a more tricky operation then mapping steering controls (the left-hand cluster and phone controls are fully functional, although the other set is not).
Many thanks in advance
Neil
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Just a quick add: looks as though the audible alarms were door and seatbelt, but when things change (lights on for example, I get a pic of two seats back-to-back, rear seats and a lock, and an AC setting bar. Also the photo shows the unit style - I have the 2G/64G TS7.
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I'm installing an HTC flyer in my car permanently where the radio would go (2DIN mounting), but kind of sad at the prospect of losing camera functions (video of dashboard interiors are boring).
So, what would be involved in removing the camera module and placing it somewhere else, as the dash for example? Would I just need to unsolder the camera module, solder on a whole bunch of cables, and connect them to the same contacts? Or am I barking up the wrong tree?
Alternatively, if a device has USB OTG capabilities, is there any way to make it talk to a regular USB webcam?
Discuss
Alot of research could go into what you're trying to do.......
However, I'd recommend just trying it and see what happens. Make sure your wires are all the same length.
So yeah.. In this situation, i think the Leroy Jenkins approach is appropriate.
AdamOutler said:
So yeah.. In this situation, i think the Leroy Jenkins approach is appropriate.
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PRICELESS!! lmao. @OP, awesome idea for the in dash flyer. Please post some completed pics!
have you thought about removing the camera from the back ad making "jumper cables" to put it up front? you might need something to make a housing for it to sit in the dash, but it would be better than writing a driver for it.
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The thing is in adding(soldering?) 2 proper connectors to longer flex IMO, hard to do at home, but nothing is impossible. ^^
About OTG connecting - you'd probably use universal WebCam drivers from Ubuntu for eg. though the problem would be in powering that I think, WebCam has to be OTG compliant (with external power connector maybe?) or you'd need some special adapter, the rest is redirecting Android to use your webcam, but don't think it's hard comparing to other things.
I did this with a fascinate in my 87 BMW 325ic
I bought 2 extra cameras ( paid $16ea somewhere, cant remember off hand)
I failed at getting it to work myself as I suck at soldering.
However-
I had a friend take it into work and solder it in for me. We then took a light sensor from a 4th gen camaro , mounted it on my dash, ran the cam there, installed the phone and f-in-a . it was sweet.
this lasted for a full 3 weeks until something came undone and now the cam doesnt work. Ive switched back to the stock deck and just wired a bluetooth receiver into the tape deck, mounted a droid x down by the ashtray and it works. Not as great as what I had, but it works.
Point being, it can be done. and its pretty sweet when done right.
grab fried boards from ebay and start from there.
Wait some more weeks, cotula is developing usb host mode driver, and he has developed a working driver. Its for android. It will be available soon to public when he corrects the errors.
So u can simply plug in an usb cam to ur phone( providing only external power supplay is needed.) So u can do it with out bricking ur phone. Till then use it as a phone..
send from my hd2 @ miui 1.12.2
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The green arrows point to contacts that are exposed when removing a panel with the the purple arrows. They are some so of contacts that can be accessed without taking the panel off by the orange arrows.
Finally, the two yellow arrows point to two contacts close to the USB port (circled in blue).
Anyone know what this stuff is for?
no clue BUT xda just started a "hardware hacking and development" section, I read about it in the portal recently, I bet you'll be able to find out there, good luck sir.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=1425
Grab multimeter and check if at least one is connected to GND, these may be power lines USB-GND (GND of whole board) and USB-VCC. It's only guess but thing to start with.
If one is connected to GND and another one isn't, look for connection to the second one around PMIC. Even if it's indeed VCC, you may not find it - sometimes battery charging circuit is integrated into PMIC, and in other models it's separate IC.
The top picture looks like it may be contacts for the antenna. Try removing it while the phone is on and see if you lose your cell signal or wifi.
xHausx said:
The top picture looks like it may be contacts for the antenna. Try removing it while the phone is on and see if you lose your cell signal or wifi.
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I can try that tomorrow, but is the antenna at the bottom of the phone? (that's where that panel is). If it is the antenna, why would you be able to access it somehow through the purposely made holes?
SteelH said:
I can try that tomorrow, but is the antenna at the bottom of the phone? (that's where that panel is). If it is the antenna, why would you be able to access it somehow through the purposely made holes?
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Not sure, on the E3D I'm pretty sure the wifi & blue tooth antennas are on the bottom while the wimax and cdma are on top. They're not built into the backplate though.
On the bottom picture there I'm thinking they may be used if you need to JTAG it. Not quite sure about their intended purpose but grounding the outside one to the SD card slot will put the phone in download mode.
http://dev-host.org/mva6igj9v948/HTC_EVO_3D_schematics.pdf
Hey... Those contacts are on the outside of the device, so they must be buffered. You need not worry about damaging the device while working with them unless you try something stupid like plugging them into the wall.
One of the contacts is connected to a rather large area of board trace. Generally, that means that contact is ground. So, based on that assumption that leaves only a few options
1. Analog-to-Digital converter. On the SGS series of devices, USB pin 4 - 5 form a mode switching device which allows you to put the device into download mode with 301kohms of resistance, or UART with 619kohms of resistance. there's a total of 20 modes including car dock, home dock, audio test modes, and different physical buttons like play, pause, fast forward.... This is highly likely
2. 1-Wire communications. This is basically a serial input/output on the same line using an additional ground as a reference.
3. This is a qualcomm device. It may be that that is an ENABLE line for QPST download mode. Try this, remove the battery, short the 2 questionable contacts, plug the device into the computer and insert the battery. If it enumerates with a different USBID... that's what it is.
those are antenna connectors, you can see the printed antenna pattern in the casing
So long time lurker here, and probably in the wrong section, if so, really sorry and please move it to the correct section if needed. :angel:
I have been using an MTCB unit ( Hui Fei Type ) In my Nissan Note, tweaked it, upgraded it to android 6 and everything worked fine. Sold the car, sold the headunit. and now I have an Nissan Qashqai J10 (2009) .
This car has an pretty nice head unit in it, with navigation and rear cam feed like the one below :
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So removing this one and replacing it with something else is something I want to avoid. After some research I had fount out there are some models that have the head unit navigation display above the traditional headunit
This gave me some new opportunities and I went ahead and bought the parts needed :
Dashboard section on ebay including the top screen
7 Inch Display from AliExpress
USB Dab+ Adapter
USB GPS receiver
Development poard to solder parts on. with the same size as the raspberry pi
12V Relay to act as switch on key ignition
12V - 5V 3A Step down to get power from the car to the development board. ( 2 pcs )
original Nissan ISO wiring harness just in case for the parts
2 push buttons ( 1 - Latching as power switch for this head unit, 1 momentary for hard reset )
FM Transmitter ... (In hindsight I do not like this idea because someone else could possible listen to it if driving close to you..., going to use the AUX on the original head unit instead )
I already had an Raspberry Pi 3 B+ lying around here and wanted to use this but found out quickly enough that is not an option because I really want to use Android 7.1+
After some looking around I have to decide what to buy next :
Alpine64 ROCK64
Alpine64 ROCKPro64
Libre Computer - AML-S905X-CC (Le Potato)
The first and the latter are roughly Raspberry Clones and therefor will fit for sure in the reserved space behind the screen. The pro version is going to be probably to big and the extra compute power is not really necessary.
I already received the dashboard part including the top screen. Sadly the screen is not functioning and has some really specific connectors so I removed the original display from the case and build the AliExpress Display in the case. it fits almost perfectly but needs an extra bezel to fill up some small gaps. (pictures will follow)
After installing Raspbian on the raspberry and some frustrations with the 7 inch display (which worked good, but the touchpanel was broken and did not detect touch 10mm from the borders all around, I'm awaiting an new one at the moment )
The up comming week i have to wait for the majority of the ordered parts and will post updates ones I get them.
Dear Sebastiano,
May I ask you if you managed to succeed with this project? I have a Nissan QQ with the same version of screen on the top of my dashboard, and I would like to replace it with an Android unit, but I'm not sure which one would fit there, and if this is possible at all, so it would be a huge help to know how your project ended.
Hi all,
I've been going through topics for the last 7 days, but with no results for my problem.
I have 2nd gen, PX3 7.1 , 2G rom android headunit, i've bought it as second hand.
Android part is working good, no issues, but i cannot get signal for OEM i-drive side or for when reversing.
When i put in reverse nothing happens (i guess there should be camera view with no-signal and PDC display, right?). This is happening from the very start, so while in my car, this never worked.
I get sound from android unit, and all of the features there work.
I-drive wheel work on android, steering wheel buttons work on android (i am able to switch sources Radio, CD, AUX via steering wheel button), also signal is sent to dashboard app (speed, door open, brake pull..)
But, when i try to go to "Car info" or pressing MENU button for 3 seconds it always displays "No Signal"
What i tried so far (in chronological order):
-tried pretty much every CarType option in factory settings menu - no luck
- removed unit's back-cover to inspect hardware (i am not very knowledgeable about electronics, but connectors seem ok visually)
- MCU update to latest - successful but no change
- ROM update to px3 7.1.1 20181124 - successful but no change
- tried again original CCC i-drive screen with original harness - everything is OK, signal is there
- Did Factory reset - successful, but no change for No signal, i am now facing with Google services stopped error every 10 seconds, i will deal with that now, i will try to update services or downgrade to 20180703
Does anybody have any idea what can cause "No Signal" issue on OEM side?
What should i look for, what connector is responsible for that part?
Can it be faulty harness? Can it be software related?
I hope someone can help me, i am really struggling to fix this (if it is possible).
Thanks in advance!
Regards,
Novak
bump
Ok, since nobody replied i will share info hopefully to help someone else.
I ve solved the problem. in my case it was Lvds connector/jack on the headunit itself. It seems that connections to the chip next to the jack were not good. Solved by removing connector and soldering new one.
The same problem
nowaq111 pls give me more information about this becamuse i ve have the same problem
gabo99x99 said:
nowaq111 pls give me more information about this becamuse i ve have the same problem
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In my case it was the lvds connector on the android unit. It had loose (broken) pins, so i took it to repair shop and they soldered new jack (new pins) and it is working fine ever since.
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Bought this radio for my 2021 Toyota C-HR XLE, because i need rca outs for front/rear/sub as im running a 5 channel amp. BUT STILL HAVING A FEW ISSUES.
1. First off it doesn't fit all the way into the dash, sticks out about a 1/4 to 1/2 " all the way around. had to put a strip of blue painters tape across top of unit to keep it from falling out while driving which works. Looks like the outside tabs on bezel seem to align up with dash slots, but something is keeping it from locking into place.
2. audio cuts out when reversing. - i found the option to turn this on/off, but no matter which way you set it, it still cuts audio off.
manufact. said they will send a different canbus ? the one they sent me has alot of different settings, they told me to use xp for canbus type, but after trying every single option under xp/toyota nothing fixed the issue. so will have to wait to see what they send.
3. OEM rear camera does not come on. car switches to camera view when reversing, but nothing shows. they sent me a diagram to follow, but that didnt work either, and since that they keep sending me diagrams for connecting the included cameras but nothing to get my oem one to work.
Steering wheel controls started working as soon, as i connected canbus, so didnt have to do manual setup, but i think today, i may try and remove canbus to see if it fixes the reversing/audio issue, if it does, will see if i can manually add the steering wheel controls back or not. probably going to be a waste of time, but figured i'd at least try and see what happens.
If anyone else with a toyota c-hr has ahad any fixes for these issues, please post what worked for you. - many thanks