WIP: Custom Headunit building Nissan Qashqai J10 - Android Head-Units

So long time lurker here, and probably in the wrong section, if so, really sorry and please move it to the correct section if needed. :angel:
I have been using an MTCB unit ( Hui Fei Type ) In my Nissan Note, tweaked it, upgraded it to android 6 and everything worked fine. Sold the car, sold the headunit. and now I have an Nissan Qashqai J10 (2009) .
This car has an pretty nice head unit in it, with navigation and rear cam feed like the one below :
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So removing this one and replacing it with something else is something I want to avoid. After some research I had fount out there are some models that have the head unit navigation display above the traditional headunit
This gave me some new opportunities and I went ahead and bought the parts needed :
Dashboard section on ebay including the top screen
7 Inch Display from AliExpress
USB Dab+ Adapter
USB GPS receiver
Development poard to solder parts on. with the same size as the raspberry pi
12V Relay to act as switch on key ignition
12V - 5V 3A Step down to get power from the car to the development board. ( 2 pcs )
original Nissan ISO wiring harness just in case for the parts
2 push buttons ( 1 - Latching as power switch for this head unit, 1 momentary for hard reset )
FM Transmitter ... (In hindsight I do not like this idea because someone else could possible listen to it if driving close to you..., going to use the AUX on the original head unit instead )
I already had an Raspberry Pi 3 B+ lying around here and wanted to use this but found out quickly enough that is not an option because I really want to use Android 7.1+
After some looking around I have to decide what to buy next :
Alpine64 ROCK64
Alpine64 ROCKPro64
Libre Computer - AML-S905X-CC (Le Potato)
The first and the latter are roughly Raspberry Clones and therefor will fit for sure in the reserved space behind the screen. The pro version is going to be probably to big and the extra compute power is not really necessary.
I already received the dashboard part including the top screen. Sadly the screen is not functioning and has some really specific connectors so I removed the original display from the case and build the AliExpress Display in the case. it fits almost perfectly but needs an extra bezel to fill up some small gaps. (pictures will follow)
After installing Raspbian on the raspberry and some frustrations with the 7 inch display (which worked good, but the touchpanel was broken and did not detect touch 10mm from the borders all around, I'm awaiting an new one at the moment )
The up comming week i have to wait for the majority of the ordered parts and will post updates ones I get them.

Dear Sebastiano,
May I ask you if you managed to succeed with this project? I have a Nissan QQ with the same version of screen on the top of my dashboard, and I would like to replace it with an Android unit, but I'm not sure which one would fit there, and if this is possible at all, so it would be a huge help to know how your project ended.

Related

XTRONS® Pure Android 4.1.1

Anyone have comments or warnings about the single-din Android head unit here:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0107L1XNY/
It is the D788A Model, with an "Mstar 786" processor, Android 4.1.1 and 1024x600 native display.
I am having to give up on the RoadNavi C315 (winCE) that I bought due to a slew of issues and problems (it's an utter piece of carpola).
Since I have a Fiat 500, it is a SINGLE din opening and very difficult and expensive to convert to dual din. Conversion requires cutting AC ductwork and buying a $200 kit to replace the AC vents with tiny vents on the sides. So I want to avoid that if I can. But single-DIN options are few and far between. The C315 I had before seemed perfect, but the software and hardware are trash.
There aren't many single DIN options, so.... There are a few with Android 4.4, but those have 800x480 resolution, so I would prefer this one despite the slightly older software.
Some questions on the Android 4.1.1 Mstar 786 systems:
1) Some reviews say the factory settings are locked and the passwords given on forums don't work. Manufacturer says this is to keep from damaging the unit. Can this be bypassed? Should I be worried if not?
2) Does this CPU/OS combo normally work with the Bluetooth stack for Torque Pro?
I couldn't find a thread on this model or processor - anything else anyone has to say about it?
I am not rich and already wasted nearly $400 on the C315. I probably won't get a fraction of that back selling it because it has a hardware audio issue. I bought a replacement board, that fixed the problem for two hours before it had the same problem. So I want to make sure I'm not hoodwinked by a piece of trash radio again.
Of course, Android is going to be a requirement. I looked at various MHL/Mirrorlink options and none of them are reliable. I'm sick as ****e of unreliable products.
Replying to my own post. Bad form, I know.
But, I found this thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2528349
...
From the looks of it, that's not a great radio. Lots of limitations... *sigh*... looks like I can't get a single DIN 1024x600 that's decent for my car.
May have to go with an 800x480...
lotherius said:
Replying to my own post. Bad form, I know.
But, I found this thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2528349
...
From the looks of it, that's not a great radio. Lots of limitations... *sigh*... looks like I can't get a single DIN 1024x600 that's decent for my car.
May have to go with an 800x480...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What kind of car do you have?
Have you considered trying to make a custom bezel for a double din stereo install in it?
I have a 2004 Dodge Intrepid, which was never intended to have a double din head unit, and I was able to do this with it.
I grafted part of a bezel from a different vehicle that supported a double din into my cars original bezel.
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Hi
I know this is now an old thread, but I thought my reply might be useful for anyone lookning at this unit on ebay/aliexpress etc.
I own this unit and its very good (for the money). Good gps reception, good bluetooth and even fairly decent wifi. Its ugly as hell, but thats the main reason I chose it - its face-like-the-back-of-a-bus looks deter potential thieves from stealing it.
Install Navmii on it and its absolutely perfect for GPS navigation. It connects to your steering wheel controls and has loads of connections for speakers, amps, extra usb etc in the back. You can even connect up a reversing cam to it which will automatically change the screen when you put the car into reverse.
It has several different positions for the screen and it will remember your choice, so once you've found the position thats right for your vehicle, it will automatically go back to that position every time the screen opens until you decide to change it.
The only downside to this unit is the manufacturer. Dont expect any support at all from Xtrons as the standard response to any question is "contact your reseller for further advice", even if it was sold directly by them.
A lot of useful android features are locked down "for safety reason of drive"(...) with a pin which they will refuse to give you. Its 3368. Using that pin will not give you access to anything which can brick your unit, but does allow you to access the car settings menu so you can turn off the annoying beep-when-you-press-anything noise, change the car logo, access the equaliser and a host of other useful stuff.
Its got an ancient version of android on it, but it has the full play store and runs Chrome and Navmii perfectly, connects to my phone as soon as I get in the car and also lets me connect my raspberry pi via the aux video in so I have a dedicated trip recorder which is better than any dashcam on the market. Switching between apps is fairly quick and its very customisable, which makes using it whilst driving easy. It has 2 micro sd card slots, one purely for navigation maps and the other for expandable storage.
I wish there was a firmware update for it that I could trust but the only one xtrons have provided is for a double din unit and I'm not going to risk bricking mine until I get a copy of the current firmware as a backup.
I hope this helps anyone looking at this unit and wondering if its worth it. In my opinion, it is.
Ian

A real 1 DIN Android unit

Hi,
I'm looking for a head unit that would actually be 1 DIN, including the screen (so no pop-up screen, no tablet-ish on a stick). I wish I had more space but I have to make do with this:
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If the screen doesn't fill the whole slot (because that's a weird form factor), that's ok. I'm semi-tempted to buy a used Parrot Asteroid Classic but it's sooooo outdated that I'm think I'd prefer my tape player.
Alternatively, just a screen (which would be plugged to a Raspberry Pi or whatever) could be a step forward.
I'd be grateful for any piece of information.
I'm hoping to be able to achieve something like that:
I had a pyle slide out touchscreen in my ranger. I just had to adjust the screen so it didn't hit the vent above it similar to your setup. What I did instead though was remove the vent and block it off above the single din. that made a nice slot for the screen to fit when extended. Wish I had pictures but I switched trucks and haven't swapped stereo decks yet. Used the back up camera input to plug in whatever I wanted, bypassed the e brake safety, and wired the control for the camera to a switch. You could do something similar
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
WhiteTitane said:
Hi,
I'm looking for a head unit that would actually be 1 DIN, including the screen (so no pop-up screen, no tablet-ish on a stick). I wish I had more space but I have to make do with this:
If the screen doesn't fill the whole slot (because that's a weird form factor), that's ok. I'm semi-tempted to buy a used Parrot Asteroid Classic but it's sooooo outdated that I'm think I'd prefer my tape player.
Alternatively, just a screen (which would be plugged to a Raspberry Pi or whatever) could be a step forward.
I'd be grateful for any piece of information.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've searched high and low and have never found any.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Something like this i think may fit ..... See the exact dimensions.
Removing the air vents is an idea but I don't wand to hack the dashboard, the car is becoming something of a collectible.
I've checked all the Joying's website, the smaller they have is like 95mm in height, that's still much taller than 1 DIN (50 mm).
I just installed the Joying 95mm one in my BMW Z3 some days ago. It still needs some work, but should fit pretty well in the end without hacking the dashboard. I'll post some pictures tomorrow.
Xtreme2k said:
I just installed the Joying 95mm one in my BMW Z3 some days ago. It still needs some work, but should fit pretty well in the end without hacking the dashboard. I'll post some pictures tomorrow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Excellent, can't wait to see them!
I didn't hack it, its removable just like yours. If you consider it collectible I wouldn't change the deck then either way.
WhiteTitane said:
Removing the air vents is an idea but I don't wand to hack the dashboard, the car is becoming something of a collectible.
I've checked all the Joying's website, the smaller they have is like 95mm in height, that's still much taller than 1 DIN (50 mm).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
As promised, here's some pictures. As you can see, the unit has snap-in connectors to mount the panel on the base unit. On the panel, the position of the connectors can be changed to set it higher or lower:
Here I used the highest position possible. This way, it sits right below the vents but does not block them.
Currently there are two problems: There is too much distance from the dashboard and the sides are uncovered.
I already modified the original connectors to shorten the distance (initially it was like 5mm more), but that's the maximum possible with the modification. Additonally, in this position the connection cable will bump into the dashboard with shorter distance because it sits above the radio bay:
So I put the panel one step lower. This way it does cover the heating controls about 1-2 mm, but I think that's fine.
This way, the connection cable is just in front of the radio bay so it would be possible to shorten the distance between radio and panel:
I'm just constructing new mounting connectors with shorter distance. If this works out, I'll also construct 3d-printed side covers to have it perfect.
Many thanks for the pics! Not a fan of the look but maybe I can live with it...
Is that the 6.2"?
Yes, it's the 6.2" one. I've now finished the new mounts and put it a little lower because it looks better that way. The air vent controls are partly covered by the screen, but still useable without problems.
My first set of 3D-printed mounts melted when the car was in the sun, now I made a new set with a more temperature-stable material (ABS instead of PLA). Hope this one will work
@WhiteTitane did you find a solution (nice S54 by the way, clownshoe or roadster?)
I've the same desire for my roadster, did you find a solution that didn't crowd the dash quite as much as the 6.2"?
Hope you did the fan mod on the 1-din chassis ? Older cars tend to have heater air leaks that could cause this install to overheat. Probably best to have the fan blowing into the head unit, and exhausting via the front cable hole.

Volkswagen Android Head Unit - Questions from a Newbie :)

Hello all,
Just picked up an Android Head Unit and installed it in my 2013 VW CC this week, and I have a few questions that I'm hoping I can get some information on.
I honestly have no idea what Make/Model this unit is for cross-reference purposes. Would love to know how to figure this out in case I'm looking to Root the unit, etc.. My account is new, so I can't post a direct link to the Aliexpress page -- including a screenshot of the sales page of the unit. Not sure if that will shed any light as to the exact model, but I'm assuming there's likely a menu setting I can access showing me exact build to figure it out?
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I've seen a LOT of mention of Long Boot times with most if not all of these Android head units, and I've even seen some YouTube vids of this. However, this head unit of mine is "instantly on" as soon as I start the vehicle, with no boot time at all to get into the User Interface. This freaks me out a bit, as it almost makes me think the unit is getting Constant Power and of course destroying my vehicle battery. I've only had the unit installed for one day, so I don't have a long sample size yet... but so far so good without killing the battery. Can anyone shed any light on the "instantly on" behavior, and if that seems normal?
To expand on the "instantly on" behavior. Let's say I have Google Maps running, and I turn the vehicle complete OFF and even remove the key. When I start the car back up, the Google Maps application pops up directly on screen without any interruption. I can't think this is normal, but maybe it is?
I tried to install Google Assistant, and while the App itself installs.... it seems that the device is locked down to a certain permission level, and will not allow Google Assistant to run. Any ideas? Needs Root to run, or possibly something else?
I'm sure I'll be back with more questions, but any input on the above would be greatly appreciated!
I had a similar experience with a mekede unit, about 3 days in it completely drained my battery. Got a mate who's an auto electrician to wire it the the ignition instead.
I've seen a LOT of mention of Long Boot times with most if not all of these Android head units, and I've even seen some YouTube vids of this. However, this head unit of mine is "instantly on" as soon as I start the vehicle, with no boot time at all to get into the User Interface. This freaks me out a bit, as it almost makes me think the unit is getting Constant Power and of course destroying my vehicle battery. I've only had the unit installed for one day, so I don't have a long sample size yet... but so far so good without killing the battery. Can anyone shed any light on the "instantly on" behavior, and if that seems normal?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These units for VW (Audi, Skoda, Seat and some other makes) are supposed to have an adapter to communicate with the car's CAN bus. This provides the unit with certain information and should hut it down properly when the ignition is off. It sounds like you don't have such an adapter and therefore the unit is permanently on

BMW e60 PX3 android - no signal on OEM side

Hi all,
I've been going through topics for the last 7 days, but with no results for my problem.
I have 2nd gen, PX3 7.1 , 2G rom android headunit, i've bought it as second hand.
Android part is working good, no issues, but i cannot get signal for OEM i-drive side or for when reversing.
When i put in reverse nothing happens (i guess there should be camera view with no-signal and PDC display, right?). This is happening from the very start, so while in my car, this never worked.
I get sound from android unit, and all of the features there work.
I-drive wheel work on android, steering wheel buttons work on android (i am able to switch sources Radio, CD, AUX via steering wheel button), also signal is sent to dashboard app (speed, door open, brake pull..)
But, when i try to go to "Car info" or pressing MENU button for 3 seconds it always displays "No Signal"
What i tried so far (in chronological order):
-tried pretty much every CarType option in factory settings menu - no luck
- removed unit's back-cover to inspect hardware (i am not very knowledgeable about electronics, but connectors seem ok visually)
- MCU update to latest - successful but no change
- ROM update to px3 7.1.1 20181124 - successful but no change
- tried again original CCC i-drive screen with original harness - everything is OK, signal is there
- Did Factory reset - successful, but no change for No signal, i am now facing with Google services stopped error every 10 seconds, i will deal with that now, i will try to update services or downgrade to 20180703
Does anybody have any idea what can cause "No Signal" issue on OEM side?
What should i look for, what connector is responsible for that part?
Can it be faulty harness? Can it be software related?
I hope someone can help me, i am really struggling to fix this (if it is possible).
Thanks in advance!
Regards,
Novak
bump
Ok, since nobody replied i will share info hopefully to help someone else.
I ve solved the problem. in my case it was Lvds connector/jack on the headunit itself. It seems that connections to the chip next to the jack were not good. Solved by removing connector and soldering new one.
The same problem
nowaq111 pls give me more information about this becamuse i ve have the same problem
gabo99x99 said:
nowaq111 pls give me more information about this becamuse i ve have the same problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In my case it was the lvds connector on the android unit. It had loose (broken) pins, so i took it to repair shop and they soldered new jack (new pins) and it is working fine ever since.
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Trying to get flashing and blinking on a Topway TS7

Hi Guys
I had a 2007 Mini Cooper Chilli with a non-functional radio, and went through the tons-of-fun disassembly and removal of the unit to put in this TS7 Android head unit with a view to running wired Carplay. The good news is that the onboard Amp is still functional, and I have a partly disassembled dash, a bucket of trim screws, and surprisingly good sound, with WiFi, GPS functional and playing MP3s from a USB stick in an unpowered hub.
My approach is to get everything working in Android mode first (using the house WiFi to access the internet), make sure I have a backup, then try to implement Carplay using TLink5, so idiot's guides to the best practise would be much appreciated.
The bad news is that there are a few weirdnesses - the unit currently starts up with the seat indicator lit, an alarm ringing which either times out or can be reset with the emergency flasher (go figure), but thereafter none of the arc of indicators (things like fullbeam) work, despite the speed and fuel arcs being lit and functional. So I suspect the CANBus mapping.
USB may be a little flaky (and was with only a USB stick prior to the hub) as it seems to want the stick pulled and restored after startup to register it. Running two cameras in a Mini is probably overkill. The front camera (on the 6-pin USB port) seems to have gotten over a snit whereby it refused to admit the SD card existed, then disappeared itself; video for the rear is working whilst I mount it - not sure if only one USB port can be used at once, in which case Spotify is fine rather than a stick - hopefully the front cam continues to record to its SD card. There were some internal plugins between the display unit and the head unit (unless I fell victim to 'the cable fits, so plug it in syndrome'. I tapped the reverse line to present to the camera (may need a relay) and glued and powered the dinky fan (we're tropical here).
So, back to the indicator lights. I updated the MCU (the main software was up-to-date), and I have the access codes, but when I look for the appropriate car, I can't find it (and have no clue what the 00 General; 03 Simple Soft; 13 Binary; 02 Raise etc mean or do). Mini Cooper should reside under BMW - any clues here? Getting hardware indicators running is probably a more tricky operation then mapping steering controls (the left-hand cluster and phone controls are fully functional, although the other set is not).
Many thanks in advance
Neil
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Just a quick add: looks as though the audible alarms were door and seatbelt, but when things change (lights on for example, I get a pic of two seats back-to-back, rear seats and a lock, and an AC setting bar. Also the photo shows the unit style - I have the 2G/64G TS7.

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