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The green arrows point to contacts that are exposed when removing a panel with the the purple arrows. They are some so of contacts that can be accessed without taking the panel off by the orange arrows.
Finally, the two yellow arrows point to two contacts close to the USB port (circled in blue).
Anyone know what this stuff is for?
no clue BUT xda just started a "hardware hacking and development" section, I read about it in the portal recently, I bet you'll be able to find out there, good luck sir.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=1425
Grab multimeter and check if at least one is connected to GND, these may be power lines USB-GND (GND of whole board) and USB-VCC. It's only guess but thing to start with.
If one is connected to GND and another one isn't, look for connection to the second one around PMIC. Even if it's indeed VCC, you may not find it - sometimes battery charging circuit is integrated into PMIC, and in other models it's separate IC.
The top picture looks like it may be contacts for the antenna. Try removing it while the phone is on and see if you lose your cell signal or wifi.
xHausx said:
The top picture looks like it may be contacts for the antenna. Try removing it while the phone is on and see if you lose your cell signal or wifi.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can try that tomorrow, but is the antenna at the bottom of the phone? (that's where that panel is). If it is the antenna, why would you be able to access it somehow through the purposely made holes?
SteelH said:
I can try that tomorrow, but is the antenna at the bottom of the phone? (that's where that panel is). If it is the antenna, why would you be able to access it somehow through the purposely made holes?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure, on the E3D I'm pretty sure the wifi & blue tooth antennas are on the bottom while the wimax and cdma are on top. They're not built into the backplate though.
On the bottom picture there I'm thinking they may be used if you need to JTAG it. Not quite sure about their intended purpose but grounding the outside one to the SD card slot will put the phone in download mode.
http://dev-host.org/mva6igj9v948/HTC_EVO_3D_schematics.pdf
Hey... Those contacts are on the outside of the device, so they must be buffered. You need not worry about damaging the device while working with them unless you try something stupid like plugging them into the wall.
One of the contacts is connected to a rather large area of board trace. Generally, that means that contact is ground. So, based on that assumption that leaves only a few options
1. Analog-to-Digital converter. On the SGS series of devices, USB pin 4 - 5 form a mode switching device which allows you to put the device into download mode with 301kohms of resistance, or UART with 619kohms of resistance. there's a total of 20 modes including car dock, home dock, audio test modes, and different physical buttons like play, pause, fast forward.... This is highly likely
2. 1-Wire communications. This is basically a serial input/output on the same line using an additional ground as a reference.
3. This is a qualcomm device. It may be that that is an ENABLE line for QPST download mode. Try this, remove the battery, short the 2 questionable contacts, plug the device into the computer and insert the battery. If it enumerates with a different USBID... that's what it is.
those are antenna connectors, you can see the printed antenna pattern in the casing
Related
Captivate owner here... Do your Vibrants have these contacts on the back?
The Captivate cover is made of metal. It is suspected that these contacts are antenna but we don't know for sure...
Anyone with a Vibrant care to post a pic or let us know about your device?
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nope. none of that... pic coming.
No but what we do have is one antenna to the right of the Sim Card. It's probably for GPS, WiFi and BT. I can snap a picture if you want. The Captivate probably does use the back as an antenna because you don't have what we have.
Doesn't appear to.
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App
nope nothing like that
but thanks for the idea, and the shot of that optional antenna lead socket next to the sim card - mine has the plastic plug over it and was meaning to pop it to get a look at it
question - is the entire caseback metal or is there a metal band embedded in the plastic?
Yep, I'm an artist
Are you guys having problems with the metal back?
No problems, just curious what the heck it's for...
TexUs said:
The Captivate cover is made of metal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
are you sure?
here's a better shot of what heygirl is referring to
that round plug cover, next to the bottom end of the sim card at the far left in the image, that well the plug is covering was identified in that dis-assembly video as the "optional" antenna" socket -that was the only reference to that optional antenna i've seen but, that would confirm what heygirl is indicating, that that is our antenna
but, then why is the radio signal on everyone's phone appearing to get weaker when they shield the bottom end with that "death grip" on the bottom end?
the area under the first three arrows (starting on the left) seems to be covered with a pc of black vinyl with adhesive, with the antenna, if that's what is there, underneath
there's also a well with a metal pin in it under the last arrow to the right - i'd be curious what role that plays or offers
it would be interesting to see the vibrant & captivate dis-assembled side by side and see what's interchangeable - iand if the at&T antenna setup could be used in the vibrant to upgrade signal reception?
That's for a lanyard.
The phone's cellular antenna is at the bottom, this isn't the cellular antenna.
bl4ckdr4g00n said:
are you sure?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pretty sure. It's definitely not plastic and makes a metallic ring when dropping it down onto a glass table.
Somebody probably already found this, but the mojo actually has a power and reset button under the hood
Sry for the dusty pic
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Nice. Could you please post more images of the opened device and maybe a description on how to open the MOJO without damaging anything?
Open the mojo
First of all, BE CAREFUL, I'm not taking responsibility if you crack something or drive a screwdriver through the motherboard, not that its likely but still
1. Disconnect everything from the device.
2. Orientate the device upside down and rotate it so the ports are away from you (easier to explain some of the steps)
3. Remove both rubber feet, the one next to the ports hides the four clasps in the picture below, the other one hides one screw that needs to be removed.
4. Grab something small, flat and a little wide (like a flat screwdriver)
One a time, press the clasps down and away from you.
At the same time grab the edge above the ports (the bottom plate) and bend it a LITTLE upwards so the clasps comes out a little easier.
4. When the four clasps are out of the sockets and the screw is removed from under the other rubber foot, you basically can open the whole thing like a clam.
Just be careful with the ports, especially the audio jack, it sits on a mini pcb inside and seemed a little fragile.
When you opened it so the ports are free, some force has to be applied. On the opposite side, inside the shell there are two more clasps that will resist.
I just kept opening it like a clam and the two pieces separated, everything intact.
5. Done!
I removed the motherboard from the bottom plate, the only things under there was the soldering points of the ports.
I also removed the heatsink, nothing exciting. (I dont recommend this because of the thermal compound between the cpu and heatsink)
The power and reset button
This was the most exciting thing I found, there was a button under the usb3 port, can figure out what it does though, if I hold it in under boot, the device wont boot.
PM me if you cant figure it out!
Why Mad Catz wouldn't put a power and reset button on the outside of the device is beyond me. I wish there was a way to power on and off from the controller...
But this is a nice find! I might have to mod an external switch, if that's an option...
Wow. Thank you for your explanation! :good:
Hey, Thanks...I heard about that before, but the Instructions and pics are great! I think I'll be tearing mine open this weekend & figure out how to expose those 2 buttons.
Seems one could drill a couple small holes in the case and put a couple small plastic pins as button extensions. Possibly the shafts from a couple of golf tees?
Does anyone know which button does what? and will the reset start it back up after being turned off with a software switch?
About the third button: will the MOJO not boot at all with it pressed, or does it boot into fastboot?
Hello all, I'm thinking to tear down mine and I might change the case for my Mojo. Not sure if I'll add a fan with a switch to toggle it on /off, and planning to expose those power buttons too. Has anyone done something similar? Maybe there are some 3d printer schemes somewhere on the net, I could not find any though. Thank you very much!
Hi yes it happened! my audio jack came off! will that stop the sound coming through the TV?
colks said:
Hi yes it happened! my audio jack came off! will that stop the sound coming through the TV?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No as long as your sound is going through the HDMI.
I'm wondering if anyone can identify the two components circled in red in the lower right corner of this image?
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I recently replaced the screen on my Nexus 6P, but these two component came loose (likely from when I took off the screen connector below them). One of them was lost as well.
After replacing the screen everything seems to work ok except that the Sim card is not detected. (The same sim works in other phones.) I'm suspecting that these two components are the issue. It's pretty likely that I would not be able to successfully replace them, but then again it might be worth trying.
Any thoughts? Thanks!
Your image link don't work..
But btw, why did you replace it? Broken?
I hear it's a very difficult and risky process to replace screens on 6P..
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
I just updated the image in the original post. I think it should show up now.
I dropped the phone from about two feet up and the touch screen quit working. Replacing the screen was a bit daunting, but actually seemed to go quite well until I figured out the sim was not recognized any more. It was a bit tough to pry off the camera shield on the back and to pry the insides from the body the first time. But now I can do it without too much trouble.
I think that the two parts I wan to identify might have been a bit damaged before (water damage?), and then I might have inadvertently helped them along.
balesse said:
I'm wondering if anyone can identify the two components circled in red in the lower right corner of this image?
I recently replaced the screen on my Nexus 6P, but these two component came loose (likely from when I took off the screen connector below them). One of them was lost as well.
After replacing the screen everything seems to work ok except that the Sim card is not detected. (The same sim works in other phones.) I'm suspecting that these two components are the issue. It's pretty likely that I would not be able to successfully replace them, but then again it might be worth trying.
Any thoughts? Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't see your image for some reason either on Tapatalk but I can in web view. Check ifixit for a full outlook of internal parts:
https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus+6P+Teardown/51660
Edit: On second thought, the piece you're asking about wouldn't be discussed by them.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
That's gonna be tough with no markings on the board or components. Google "identify smd components" might yield some helpful results. I think they are either smd resistors or fuses. As a last resort bridge the connections individually with solder or conductive glue. Check with multimeter after you bridge them to insure no resistance (good connection). Really looks more like those are components for the display circuit though.
normally those are some resistor smd.
you can check on other phones (service manuals) what kind of component is there.
i saw a service manual for lg g3 here on xda, you can check whatever you want but try to search for a component like that.
I dropped my Axon 7. Though there's no visible damage, the phone will frequently freeze (not turn off) and just continue to display whatever was on the screen at the time. Or the the charging LED will remain on if it was just charging and not actually booted, even if I unplug the phone.
I opened it up and reconnected all the cables, but no luck.
Once it starts, if left gently on a table it will continue to run, but if I jostle it it will likely freeze.
I've been experimenting and know I get the same behavior if the phone is running on AC with the battery disconnected (I think that worked...) , or if I run unplugged with the battery.
Any ideas? Since I already have the phone open and don't much have to loose, I'm willing to attempt more surgery, but I'm not sure how to diagnose the fault. (Yes, past the 2 year damage warranty).
Happy for your thoughts and suggestions!
There was a post on here with the exact same scenario, if I remember correctly it was a cable to the screen/display.
I've dropped phones and sometimes the pins bend slightly so check the connection pins.
I even repaired one that fell into a bowl of milk
found something?
Syberclone said:
There was a post on here with the exact same scenario, if I remember correctly it was a cable to the screen/display.
I've dropped phones and sometimes the pins bend slightly so check the connection pins.
I even repaired one that fell into a bowl of milk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok - What do you think about this? I can't tell if this is superficial. ($20 USB microscope I bought for my kids rocks)
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Assuming this is the issue, does replacing this cable mean removing the screen? I've heard that's hard...
I can't see from the pic properly but it is possible, the only way to know for sure is to compare with an original condition unit. (Looks better than some I've seen)
I was fortunate enough to have the same phone as a backup so I could check in my case.
Just make sure all connectors are snapped into place and no broken fragments in the connection.
I hope you get it sorted
Some pics of a brand new screen taken with my Axon and a small lens i had lying around
Syberclone said:
I can't see from the pic properly but it is possible, the only way to know for sure is to compare with an original condition unit. (Looks better than some I've seen)
I was fortunate enough to have the same phone as a backup so I could check in my case.
Just make sure all connectors are snapped into place and no broken fragments in the connection.
I hope you get it sorted
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just in case it wasn't clear what I was was keying in on.
dabramov said:
Just in case it wasn't clear what I was was keying in on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's in the outermost part, it will surely not cause anything at all...
Choose an username... said:
That's in the outermost part, it will surely not cause anything at all...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was afraid of that. Back to the drawing board... or just wait for good Black Friday deals.
Hello -
My golf cart has a 9" touchscreen that has very limited capability. I'd like to see if there's anything that can be done to enhance by maybe adding an app launcher and then adding a few better apps.
Based on the number I see inside the unit "zl201721508032.8", I think this might be a iMars or Jmance but I really don't know.
Any ideas on how to approach this? Can developer mode be enabled? I clicked around on the version but there's no response. I've connected my laptop to the USB and I see no serial port action.
thanks for any ideas.
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I'm always a sucker for a good UART hunt.
Got a voltmeter? Got a USB UART?
Check the voltages on these three pins.
Mmm, I think this is a really low end device. I think that it's not Android at all.
1 GB flash and 64 MB RAM doesn't get you a lot of buzz these days.
Oh good eye on seeing those pins, I completely missed those. I'll give that a try. I've got a couple of the usb-uart things that I've used on routers.
The UI sure looks a lot like other Android auto tablets like that eBay auction and the ones in Jmance website so I was thinking it's Android.
Novice question, could that allwinner board be just the MCU part and the Android part/tablet is below the black plastic with the zl201721508032.8 stamp?
droidard said:
Novice question, could that allwinner board be just the MCU part and the Android part/tablet is below the black plastic with the zl201721508032.8 stamp?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope. The white ribbon cable is the fixed pushbuttons on the left of the screen, the orange is the LCD, the black is the I²C interface for the capacitive touch sensor.
Renate said:
I'm always a sucker for a good UART hunt.
Got a voltmeter? Got a USB UART?
Check the voltages on these three pins.
View attachment 5742927
Mmm, I think this is a really low end device. I think that it's not Android at all.
1 GB flash and 64 MB RAM doesn't get you a lot of buzz these days.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Renate said:
I'm always a sucker for a good UART hunt.
Got a voltmeter? Got a USB UART?
Check the voltages on these three pins.
View attachment 5742927
Mmm, I think this is a really low end device. I think that it's not Android at all.
1 GB flash and 64 MB RAM doesn't get you a lot of buzz these days.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I finally got back to this. Flipping the board over, those pins and several others are labeled. Those 3 pins you mentioned (to the upper right of the 18V sticker in new photo) may not be a UART, they are labeled 3V3, GND, KEY1. Any idea what they may be?
The labeling on the 5 vertical pins seem to be a single wire interface module (SWIM) test point. A test module that I don't own.
And there are two groups that do look like UARTS. One in the bottom right and one in the middle below the 3 caps.
The bottom right didn't seem to generate any output but the middle one was quite yappy. I think it was outputting at 115200 but I saw nothing that looked like english text log output, no boot-up logs, I think it was all data. It did react to button presses, turn signals and such.
This was fun but I got no where and it doesn't look very capable or customizable. I think I'm yanking it out and replacing with an Android.
Thanks for your help
I'd think that the yappy one was it.
Did you try 921600 (the new high speed one) or even 38400.
Make sure it's all 8-n-1.
Renate said:
I'd think that the yappy one was it.
Did you try 921600 (the new high speed one) or even 38400.
Make sure it's all 8-n-1.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm pretty sure I tried 38400 but probably not 921600. I think I was using 8-N-1 but I will dbl check