Hello -
My golf cart has a 9" touchscreen that has very limited capability. I'd like to see if there's anything that can be done to enhance by maybe adding an app launcher and then adding a few better apps.
Based on the number I see inside the unit "zl201721508032.8", I think this might be a iMars or Jmance but I really don't know.
Any ideas on how to approach this? Can developer mode be enabled? I clicked around on the version but there's no response. I've connected my laptop to the USB and I see no serial port action.
thanks for any ideas.
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I'm always a sucker for a good UART hunt.
Got a voltmeter? Got a USB UART?
Check the voltages on these three pins.
Mmm, I think this is a really low end device. I think that it's not Android at all.
1 GB flash and 64 MB RAM doesn't get you a lot of buzz these days.
Oh good eye on seeing those pins, I completely missed those. I'll give that a try. I've got a couple of the usb-uart things that I've used on routers.
The UI sure looks a lot like other Android auto tablets like that eBay auction and the ones in Jmance website so I was thinking it's Android.
Novice question, could that allwinner board be just the MCU part and the Android part/tablet is below the black plastic with the zl201721508032.8 stamp?
droidard said:
Novice question, could that allwinner board be just the MCU part and the Android part/tablet is below the black plastic with the zl201721508032.8 stamp?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope. The white ribbon cable is the fixed pushbuttons on the left of the screen, the orange is the LCD, the black is the I²C interface for the capacitive touch sensor.
Renate said:
I'm always a sucker for a good UART hunt.
Got a voltmeter? Got a USB UART?
Check the voltages on these three pins.
View attachment 5742927
Mmm, I think this is a really low end device. I think that it's not Android at all.
1 GB flash and 64 MB RAM doesn't get you a lot of buzz these days.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Renate said:
I'm always a sucker for a good UART hunt.
Got a voltmeter? Got a USB UART?
Check the voltages on these three pins.
View attachment 5742927
Mmm, I think this is a really low end device. I think that it's not Android at all.
1 GB flash and 64 MB RAM doesn't get you a lot of buzz these days.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I finally got back to this. Flipping the board over, those pins and several others are labeled. Those 3 pins you mentioned (to the upper right of the 18V sticker in new photo) may not be a UART, they are labeled 3V3, GND, KEY1. Any idea what they may be?
The labeling on the 5 vertical pins seem to be a single wire interface module (SWIM) test point. A test module that I don't own.
And there are two groups that do look like UARTS. One in the bottom right and one in the middle below the 3 caps.
The bottom right didn't seem to generate any output but the middle one was quite yappy. I think it was outputting at 115200 but I saw nothing that looked like english text log output, no boot-up logs, I think it was all data. It did react to button presses, turn signals and such.
This was fun but I got no where and it doesn't look very capable or customizable. I think I'm yanking it out and replacing with an Android.
Thanks for your help
I'd think that the yappy one was it.
Did you try 921600 (the new high speed one) or even 38400.
Make sure it's all 8-n-1.
Renate said:
I'd think that the yappy one was it.
Did you try 921600 (the new high speed one) or even 38400.
Make sure it's all 8-n-1.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm pretty sure I tried 38400 but probably not 921600. I think I was using 8-N-1 but I will dbl check
Related
Hi,
I'm totaly confused about what I found on the main board of my HD2.
Now, Simple you think, if you look on google you find the pinout to be:
5 VCC +5 V
4 D− Data −
3 D+ Data +
2 Type A: connected to Ground
or
Type B: not connected
1 GND Black Signal Ground
Easy... Or????
My USB is broken from the PCB (looks like the coper on the pcb is not that thight to the bord. Well.. Since I did study electronocs, I should be able to fix it. I took my HD2 appart, but I found this:
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Now if you look at the connections, Pin 1 is clear, Pin 2 is connected Pin 5 is also clear. Pin 4 can be through an other layer, so that is also explanable.
BUT: Pin 3 ? Is that one not connected? Does it just use ground instead of data-?
Who can give some answers? I don't understand.
Thanks
Hi again,
Ok, I know it should be connected somewhere, but I can not find out where I can connect it. I hope someone knows where I can find a coper line or component which should be connected to pin 3.
I now heve all connected except pin3 which makes USB useless, but the charging works.
There is one more question, does anyone know where I could get a new mainboard for this phone and what the price is?
Hi,did U solve this?i have problem with microusb too...
pinouts
hope the pic help the to your problem.
be careful when soldering because the small pives will come apart if you atemot to solder with soldering iron.
best will be bga blow gun and positioning small wire near the components still be very careful otherwise you will not have what to fix.
For all, I did not solve it.. The HD2 worked fine, but flashing through USB was inposible. After a few months I droped it :-( screen was broken (Both, digitizer and LCD) and the usb broke again. so I droped it in the trash since it was not worth it anymore.... RIP HD2.... I will miss you....
kruithofm said:
For all, I did not solve it.. The HD2 worked fine, but flashing through USB was inposible. After a few months I droped it :-( screen was broken (Both, digitizer and LCD) and the usb broke again. so I droped it in the trash since it was not worth it anymore.... RIP HD2.... I will miss you....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you joking? Really dumped it?
Very big mistake!
You wasted a totally revivable/repairable hd2
Nope... still have it, but... digitizer + LCD + USB broke... And if I'm not wrong also the volume keys are teared.... So fixing it means buy LCD/digitizer/ribben kabel/mainboard... which is basicly a whole new HD2, without the casing and battery.
kruithofm said:
Nope... still have it, but... digitizer + LCD + USB broke... And if I'm not wrong also the volume keys are teared.... So fixing it means buy LCD/digitizer/ribben kabel/mainboard... which is basicly a whole new HD2, without the casing and battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm interested in buying it!
Think about for a fair price and PM me, if interested!
I'm not selling.. sorry...
I'm installing an HTC flyer in my car permanently where the radio would go (2DIN mounting), but kind of sad at the prospect of losing camera functions (video of dashboard interiors are boring).
So, what would be involved in removing the camera module and placing it somewhere else, as the dash for example? Would I just need to unsolder the camera module, solder on a whole bunch of cables, and connect them to the same contacts? Or am I barking up the wrong tree?
Alternatively, if a device has USB OTG capabilities, is there any way to make it talk to a regular USB webcam?
Discuss
Alot of research could go into what you're trying to do.......
However, I'd recommend just trying it and see what happens. Make sure your wires are all the same length.
So yeah.. In this situation, i think the Leroy Jenkins approach is appropriate.
AdamOutler said:
So yeah.. In this situation, i think the Leroy Jenkins approach is appropriate.
Click to expand...
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PRICELESS!! lmao. @OP, awesome idea for the in dash flyer. Please post some completed pics!
have you thought about removing the camera from the back ad making "jumper cables" to put it up front? you might need something to make a housing for it to sit in the dash, but it would be better than writing a driver for it.
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The thing is in adding(soldering?) 2 proper connectors to longer flex IMO, hard to do at home, but nothing is impossible. ^^
About OTG connecting - you'd probably use universal WebCam drivers from Ubuntu for eg. though the problem would be in powering that I think, WebCam has to be OTG compliant (with external power connector maybe?) or you'd need some special adapter, the rest is redirecting Android to use your webcam, but don't think it's hard comparing to other things.
I did this with a fascinate in my 87 BMW 325ic
I bought 2 extra cameras ( paid $16ea somewhere, cant remember off hand)
I failed at getting it to work myself as I suck at soldering.
However-
I had a friend take it into work and solder it in for me. We then took a light sensor from a 4th gen camaro , mounted it on my dash, ran the cam there, installed the phone and f-in-a . it was sweet.
this lasted for a full 3 weeks until something came undone and now the cam doesnt work. Ive switched back to the stock deck and just wired a bluetooth receiver into the tape deck, mounted a droid x down by the ashtray and it works. Not as great as what I had, but it works.
Point being, it can be done. and its pretty sweet when done right.
grab fried boards from ebay and start from there.
Wait some more weeks, cotula is developing usb host mode driver, and he has developed a working driver. Its for android. It will be available soon to public when he corrects the errors.
So u can simply plug in an usb cam to ur phone( providing only external power supplay is needed.) So u can do it with out bricking ur phone. Till then use it as a phone..
send from my hd2 @ miui 1.12.2
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The green arrows point to contacts that are exposed when removing a panel with the the purple arrows. They are some so of contacts that can be accessed without taking the panel off by the orange arrows.
Finally, the two yellow arrows point to two contacts close to the USB port (circled in blue).
Anyone know what this stuff is for?
no clue BUT xda just started a "hardware hacking and development" section, I read about it in the portal recently, I bet you'll be able to find out there, good luck sir.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=1425
Grab multimeter and check if at least one is connected to GND, these may be power lines USB-GND (GND of whole board) and USB-VCC. It's only guess but thing to start with.
If one is connected to GND and another one isn't, look for connection to the second one around PMIC. Even if it's indeed VCC, you may not find it - sometimes battery charging circuit is integrated into PMIC, and in other models it's separate IC.
The top picture looks like it may be contacts for the antenna. Try removing it while the phone is on and see if you lose your cell signal or wifi.
xHausx said:
The top picture looks like it may be contacts for the antenna. Try removing it while the phone is on and see if you lose your cell signal or wifi.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can try that tomorrow, but is the antenna at the bottom of the phone? (that's where that panel is). If it is the antenna, why would you be able to access it somehow through the purposely made holes?
SteelH said:
I can try that tomorrow, but is the antenna at the bottom of the phone? (that's where that panel is). If it is the antenna, why would you be able to access it somehow through the purposely made holes?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure, on the E3D I'm pretty sure the wifi & blue tooth antennas are on the bottom while the wimax and cdma are on top. They're not built into the backplate though.
On the bottom picture there I'm thinking they may be used if you need to JTAG it. Not quite sure about their intended purpose but grounding the outside one to the SD card slot will put the phone in download mode.
http://dev-host.org/mva6igj9v948/HTC_EVO_3D_schematics.pdf
Hey... Those contacts are on the outside of the device, so they must be buffered. You need not worry about damaging the device while working with them unless you try something stupid like plugging them into the wall.
One of the contacts is connected to a rather large area of board trace. Generally, that means that contact is ground. So, based on that assumption that leaves only a few options
1. Analog-to-Digital converter. On the SGS series of devices, USB pin 4 - 5 form a mode switching device which allows you to put the device into download mode with 301kohms of resistance, or UART with 619kohms of resistance. there's a total of 20 modes including car dock, home dock, audio test modes, and different physical buttons like play, pause, fast forward.... This is highly likely
2. 1-Wire communications. This is basically a serial input/output on the same line using an additional ground as a reference.
3. This is a qualcomm device. It may be that that is an ENABLE line for QPST download mode. Try this, remove the battery, short the 2 questionable contacts, plug the device into the computer and insert the battery. If it enumerates with a different USBID... that's what it is.
those are antenna connectors, you can see the printed antenna pattern in the casing
I was attempting to solder in a usb flash drive onto the board for some extra internal storage, similar to what they are doing in this thread => http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1866988
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While soldering I accidently broke the piece circled in orange int he picture. I think it is a resistor? Can anyone confirm that and possible tell me how many ohms it is? The piece fell on the floor and is in my carpet somewhere. I would like to get a new piece to solder back in. Since the piece is missing my nexus 7 works fine except it can't go into OTG mode. If I connect a flash drive to the micro usb port with an OTG cable nothing happens and previously it would mount the USB with stickmount.
grnqrtr said:
I was attempting to solder in a usb flash drive onto the board for some extra internal storage, similar to what they are doing in this thread => http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1866988
While soldering I accidently broke the piece circled in orange int he picture. I think it is a resistor? Can anyone confirm that and possible tell me how many ohms it is? The piece fell on the floor and is in my carpet somewhere. I would like to get a new piece to solder back in. Since the piece is missing my nexus 7 works fine except it can't go into OTG mode. If I connect a flash drive to the micro usb port with an OTG cable nothing happens and previously it would mount the USB with stickmount.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is a resistor. When I get a chance I'll get the resistance for you, I'm in the process of moving my office in my house so I don't know exactly where my Multimeter is at the moment.
Thank you! That would be much appreciated!
Still haven't heard anything. Can anyone check the resistance for me?
grnqrtr said:
Still haven't heard anything. Can anyone check the resistance for me?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you had a look at Nexus 7 schematics?
I found this, http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=31922480#post31922480 , but it's way too complex for me. I have no idea how to find that one little resistor in the schematic.
grnqrtr said:
I found this, http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=31922480#post31922480 , but it's way too complex for me. I have no idea how to find that one little resistor in the schematic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My guess, please check the schematic on sheet 14 of 60 or page 14, look for r83. Value of R83 is 100k ohm.
please correct if I was wrong.
KVLV said:
My guess, please check the schematic on sheet 14 of 60 or page 14, look for r83. Value of R83 is 100k ohm.
please correct if I was wrong.
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That definitely looks like a good guess. I might try that. Can anyone else confirm KVLV's guess?
.
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This is in the concept stage. There are no guarantees.
I am converting my Ipod classic to use a series of SD cards, and I picked up a spare iPod for cheap. This is going to be my work log for removing the stock 30 pin connector and replacing it with a USB C connector. I'll need to design and 3d print the bottom cover of the device except where the connector is. I'm not even sure if there's enough room on the board for this to happen, I might end up needing to cut into the iPod board and do tracing stuff to make room.
One thing I'm wondering is if I can attach the firewire of the iPod to the firewire of the USB c port. I think I'll try to make a 30pin connector to USB C to test and see if there's any advantage before I attach anything to the board itself.
http://pinouts.ru/PortableDevices/ipod_pinout.shtml
https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aovh5.png
https://www.mill-max.com/assets/pdfs/149.2.pdf
update 12/20/2018
I have a 3d printer now, and the dev boards have arrived.
Reserved2
Please update your work log!
I thought I was the only one wishing to upgrade my port along with my other mods to my ipod. I'm curious as to how you did it and what steps you took to make it happen! Following for future updates.
tkillen96 said:
I thought I was the only one wishing to upgrade my port along with my other mods to my ipod. I'm curious as to how you did it and what steps you took to make it happen! Following for future updates.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately I'm stuck. I've tried translating the pins from one to another, but nothing I've tried works. It does not recognize it.
If someone knows what pins to what to make the conversion, all I care about is making sure it can still charge and sync. Not the other 30 pin features.
Any updates to this?
DR650SE said:
Any updates to this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Am wondering the same, has anyone else attempted this? Wonder if there's a QI adapter anywhere. Would love to get rid of the crappy charging cable it requires.
Great project any news
lets reignite this project !
Save the BS and simplify it, just 4 pins, "D+", "D-", "5V+" and "GND", these are all we need to charge and transfer data.
What was the road block here? just unable to obtain USB connection ? Type C is a little tricky as it has a parallel design like lightning. Maybe you had got the pinout jumbled or connected one side in reverse? Ordering some test boards and Type C port components to see what i can achieve!
https://www.theiphonewiki.com/wiki/30-pin_Connector
Someone else commented about QI charging, it is entirely possible and would not be very difficult to do, the only problem is the iPod has a solid metal back so it would need a custom manufactured back replacement. I absolutely love the idea but i dont think anyone has the money/time/resources to design, manufacture the parts required. Because even if they did they would be sitting on it for a very long time with very limited sales(not to mention how many different variations.)