Seems to hold up pretty good on any flat metal surface, as long as the metal is thick enough to counter the weight of the Tegra. I want to mount the Tegra horizontally so I can use it laying down hands-free without having to crank my neck. I'm just afraid that if the magnet gives out it might hit me in my eye socket (I'm not worried about it busting up my face otherwise, although a chipped tooth would really suck).
MagLamp Mod Idea
Vibrate said:
Seems to hold up pretty good on any flat metal surface, as long as the metal is thick enough to counter the weight of the Tegra. I want to mount the Tegra horizontally so I can use it laying down hands-free without having to crank my neck. I'm just afraid that if the magnet gives out it might hit me in my eye socket (I'm not worried about it busting up my face otherwise, although a chipped tooth would really suck).
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I did not realize the TN7 had neodymium magnets until I read your post. Run a Google image search for 'magnifier lamp'. It is possible to modify one of those lamps with the wide lamp head with a metal plate to allow your device to stick to it. You could even set it up so that you could route USB wall adapter down the lamp arm for power.
Couple this with a Bluetooth joystick, and you'd have an awesome device stand. If you get, or have one of those lamps with a screw-clamp base, you could attach it to a bed or night stand and fall asleep to classic sci-fi films, or funny cat videos on YouTube like I do! If you make one, post it so we can see your design! I have found the TN7 sticks well to the fridge, and makes an excellent breakfast companion.:highfive:
Related
I know, it's silly... but the back of the Wizard stylus can be easily unscrewed revealing the hollow stylus for storage of something small. very small. In my case half a flat needle so that I can wiggle out any spec of crud that gets in that edge between the screen and the casing. Storing such a needle in a pouch would be a hassle, and would likely have it pick up crud, itself
niiiice
I've just put a needle in.. will be handy if one of my button shirt falls off..
can anyone suggest where I can store the threads??
just make great big loops through the lanyard ring - lanyard AND shirt-fixer-upper-wire in one! 8)
oh great, now we'll be having airline security open our Stylus to see if we've hidden a needle in there!
Cool place to stash things!
Is the apeture in the stylus large enough to store... oh say a gram or so of a fine white powder... call it talcum powder perhaps, for my clammy palms... Just kidding, interesting place to keep a needle though
u could keep a small copy of a book u would like to read ,
use the camara for magnifing it with is huge 4x zoom.
Or Become a drugs smuggler you would make literally millions of not a lot.
Something I always liked about my Kaiser was having a lanyard attached to it. I did this after dropping it a couple of times due to it slipping out of my hand.
As the HD2 is even more slippery in my fingers and probably more likely to shatter or break on dropping, I was disappointed that there was no lanyard hole.
I contemplated drilling a hole in battery cover but didn't have a drill. So I've duct taped a lanyard onto the back, a la the attached pic.
First I lay the lanyard ring on the back and threaded duct tape through it, locking the lanyard ring to the phone. Then I layered a bit more duct tape on top to give it some strength.
It may look a bit messy and I could have done it neater. At the end of the day it will (hopefully) stop me dropping and breaking a £500 phone which I'm happy about. It's also surprisingly strong and will give an indication before it eventually gives way. Takes about 2 minutes.
Edit: Ugly duct tape method replaced by neater black tape version.
Edit2: Video howto added: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yL3owsWT3E4
Disclaimer: If you try this and end up dropping your HD2 anyway, I accept no responsibility!
That could be the worst monstrosity to a HD2 Ive ever seen.
Haha, you may be right. But I don't have a mobile phone to look pretty, I have it to use it and rely on it to be working when I need it, not broken into 100 pieces on the floor.
Here's a neater black tape version. Not sure it will be as strong as the first though.
Biffy said:
Here's a neater black tape version. Not sure it will be as strong as the first though.
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looks sooo fragile , also u should try take it to a gravire-er if u dont have a drill and make a hole suitable
Job done no messing!
I can't understand why HC didnt add a lanyard bar and at the end of the day your solution will work and probably save your phone one day.
Nice graduated background on your photo and good image quality, what camera did you use?
It's the Panasonic FT1. A little waterproof compact.
Combining duct tape as the first layer and then black tape over for neatness is the best solution so far.
I've also considered super gluing the lanyard into the 3.5mm jack, but know I'd regret doing it straight after!
well, you guys aint the first to do this.
i invented a similar design a few weeks ago, mine used a 1" belt, meaning it can be strapped to your waist any time you like, safe as houses and pretty cool aesthetically
Final version
After a bit of testing, this is the final method I will use.
Some folded black tape under the battery cover. The battery cover adds extra strength to the tape and it looks so much neater than the Duct tape.
to be honest, that is just ugly. sorry.
I also missed such a whole for it, as I also did that with my Kaiser.
Now I sticked to a Silicon/Plastic Combi Case
why dont you get a jelly case or something like that and you can make hole in it. tape will hold fora few days only
I'm going to get a case as well I think. But the tape solution outlined which is partly under the battery case will last a lot longer than a few days.
The tape should only be under any pressure if you're about to drop your HD2, which won't be that often and then the weight isn't that great.
I think it's a great idea, and the 'under battery cover' mod (V 1.3? ) looks fine. I'm going to try copying it so I can clip it to my handbag, but with fishing line for the loop.
Mariad said:
I think it's a great idea, and the 'under battery cover' mod (V 1.3? ) looks fine. I'm going to try copying it so I can clip it to my handbag, but with fishing line for the loop.
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Yeah, I agree. The third version looks nice and clean! The only question is: What did you attach the tape to? To the cover itself? Because I wonder how much strength it requires to pull off the cover and if that wouldn't happen if the device falls...
EDIT: I love how you labeled this a "hack"!
I attached the tape to the plastic under the cover, where the sim card is. I'll put a quick video together to illustrate.
I left it hanging by the lanyard last night, for about 7 hours, 7 feet in the air, no probs. It's not intended to be pulled as hard as a regular lanyard loop may be, but for a precaution if the phone slips from your hands. And then it will be fine.
And here's the not very good howto video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yL3owsWT3E4
I dont mean to jinx you or anything, but the piece of string from the lanyard could easily split the single layer of duct tape where it's folded.. that's going to be where the weak point is....especially considering the weight of the HD2. It's not going to matter how many pieces of tape you've got under the batter cover.
Now if you were to have your HD2 on a desk or in your pocket, the temptation of grabbing it by the lanyard will be there... or if someone else decided to yank the lanyard.....
I'd suggest trying that method of attachment on something of a similar weight and shaking it around for a bit to see how the duct tape handles.
Remember... the HD2 screen is thin glass... One drop on a hard surface or if it lands at the wrong angle, it'll be time to order a new one!
I've tested it by pulling far more strongly on the lanyard than it ever would be subjected to in real use. I was able to pull it hard about 20 times before the tape started to give way. By then it was visibly starting to tear away, so you should have a good warning before it breaks. It will perfectly suit my needs anyway and I might try doubling the tape up for more strength next. Also, I think this could be improved by using even stronger tape.
Very good on the last release.
Great idea, man.
I'm going to try, but I've only two left hands....
Pink strap should be nice too ;-)
PLEASE HELP
My wife has this phone..(so do i) well anyway she found a way to do the impossible. she broke her headphone jack in the headphone hole. The tip broke and the bottom is logged in the hole. I tried to get some super glue to perhaps stick it together and pull it out..this did not work. I took the back cover off to get more access but still cant get it..any one have any suggestions...now i also have a lot of superglue residue in the hole. is there any way to open this thing and get the rest of the plug out? BTW it is not the N1 headphone but another brand. PLEASE HELP
Is the tip hollow? If so you could try taking a small screw into it in order to have something to pull it out with.
aj
how deep is the remaining part?
the tip is not hollow and the shaft part is broke off under the plastic part.
ok this is not a joke.....
BUT if you are feeling "ballsy"
take your average sewing needle and heat it up with a lighter stove w/e unitll it is red-hot. USE A PLIERS TO HOLD IT
then plunge it into the center of the remenants and let it cool
only try this if there is some plastic left in there.
lol...I will try that...hope it works, how will the needle grip the broken part of the headphone. would it just pull right out.. I need something to grab or grip the broken part....I dont want to break my phone.
Well the poster with the needle idea has the goal of having the hot needle cool with melted plastic from piece that is broke off. Once cool, the hope is that the plastic will adhere to the needle (now completely cool) and allow you to pull it free.
I have some reservations about this idea. How did she break the tip off. Was it a sideways motion? Or did you try to correctly remove the plug but for some reason it was stuck and the tip was left lodged in?
If it was the later of those, the needle idea will do nothing. It may work is it happened the first way I described.
An alternative to the needle idea and potentially more damaging is to take a paper clip, place a small bead of solder on the tip. Avoid touching any of the phones internals with the solder and press that paper clip up against the broken tip. It should not take long to cool. Once it does, it may give the the force you need to pull it free.
Please report back when you have sorted this out. We are all curious.
maybe a little dab of jbweld or gorilla glue, if worst comes to worse of course. It would be much easier if it were hollow.
What about a really strong magnet?
gIMpSTa said:
What about a really strong magnet?
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You want to stick a high power magnet next to a 530 dollar phone? Are you nuts?!?
The way to take out a broken screw is to drill a small whole in the center and try to wedge the smallest Allen wrench into it.
Maybe that might give you some sort of idea on how to dislodge that earpiece. I know it's not the same thing...but its N idea.
McFroger3 said:
You want to stick a high power magnet next to a 530 dollar phone? Are you nuts?!?
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And what exactly do you think would happen?
I'm not talking SUPER magnet, but honestly, what component of the phone do you think is in anyway affected by a magnet?
There is a myth that magnets destroy electronics. Sure you can use a magnet to wipe a hard drive (not flash storage, talking magnetic disk) but it takes a SUPER strong magnet with a concentrated beam to do even that.
gIMpSTa said:
And what exactly do you think would happen?
I'm not talking SUPER magnet, but honestly, what component of the phone do you think is in anyway affected by a magnet?
There is a myth that magnets destroy electronics. Sure you can use a magnet to wipe a hard drive (not flash storage, talking magnetic disk) but it takes a SUPER strong magnet with a concentrated beam to do even that.
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Magnets will not do anything, Blackberry uses one to turn the screen on/off
did you get it out????
Not yet still trying. .already voided the warrenty
hey guys i recently bought the 10 inch tablet case with bult in usb keyboard and i am very happy with it, it has magnets on the straps and stand to keep them in place which was nice the only problem i have with it is some of the sewn string around the outside that holds it together is frilling and the caps lock button acts wonky sometimes but not bad especially for the price.....no big deal though:laugh:
this is the one i bought
http://www.amazon.com/Keyboard-Styl...8-1&keywords=10inch+tablet+case+with+keyboard
i was thinking about making a mod to the back for the rear facing camera so i wouldnt have to take it out everytime i want to use the flashlight or cam etc. but was wandering on the best way to do this and have it look neat (want to avoid just cutting a hole in the back and leaving it ) anyideas would be apprecited. thanks again:highfive:
If its leather, i would take a soddering tool to it, it would singe the sides but hey its better than nothing, or you can cut it and just sow the sides of it together. then keep the piece or just leave one side attached and make a flap
jnktechstuff said:
If its leather, i would take a soddering tool to it, it would singe the sides but hey its better than nothing, or you can cut it and just sow the sides of it together. then keep the piece or just leave one side attached and make a flap
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Click to collapse
take a soldering iron to it lmfao XD hhhaa i actually did well sorta i cut a hole then used a lighter and soldering iron to make it look neater (ruined the bit but owell it was a cheapy extra one i had)
No, that's not a euphemism
My OUYA controller's L2/R2 triggers seemed a little stiff, like there was some unnecessary friction coming from somewhere. Not sure if anyone else has this same 'issue', but here's what I done to solve it...
- Dismantle the controller (seriously easy, 6 Philips screws under the faceplates and then just lift the 2 halves apart from each other)
- On the rear of the main PCB, you'll see the mount brackets and springs for the triggers. They seem to operate using some kind of latch system, and it's that latch brushing against the bracket that was causing the friction. (pull the trigger, you'll see it move)
- The scientific bit: squirt a blob of WD40 (or any spray oil-based lubricant) onto the bracket at the point where you can see the 'latch' move when you pull on the trigger.
- I also used some WD40 on a lint-free cloth to grease the spring itself, and the 'arms' on the actual trigger button (use a plastic opening tool to pry it away from the bracket).
After this, much less friction on the L2/R2 triggers, also eliminates that faint 'grinding' sound if you pull on the triggers ever so slowly. Much more 'fluid' feeling.
Not sure if this is of any use to anyone, figured I'd post it on the off chance it helps someone out. Also I have no idea how long this workaround will last before you have to do it again.
DroidXero said:
- The scientific bit: squirt a blob of WD40 (or any spray oil-based lubricant) onto the bracket at the point where you can see the 'latch' move when you pull on the trigger.
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I'm pretty sure regular WD40 isn't actually a lubricant. When you use it on plastics, it dries up in a few days and you're back to where you were to begin with. You may have longer lasting results with silicon spray lubricant. The WD40 website says don't use it on polycarbonite plastic. http://wd40.com/faqs/#a98 I think injection molded plastic is polycarbonite?
I'm fairly certain WD40 is a solvent. The WD is for water displacement. I've done quite a bit of work on bungalows built on stilts. When power tools would get dropped we'd immediately rinse them with fresh water and then spray WD40 in until they were saturated. Let them dry out overnight and they usually would work again. Of course they were still affected and burned out more quickly.
Sent from my GT-P3113 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
Thanks for the info guys. May well try and get my hands on a silicone-based spray.
Where I'm from we have 2 very simple DIY rules:
- Does it move? Yes. Should it? No. Duct tape.
- Does it move? No. Should it? Yes. WD40!
I posted that to Reddit a little bit ago:
How to make trigger buttons smooth as butter:
The problem is that there is no grease on the plastic-on-plastic movement of the triggers. I did that for both my controllers (maybe I should have made a video...):
Remove the 2 face plates and batteries
Remove the 6 screws of the controller and open it up
Get yourself non conducting grease (search Amazon for dielectric grease)
Apply one small dot of grease at all these areas (look at attached picture) (basically everywhere plastic slides on plastic)
Action the trigger many times to distribute the grease
Re-assemble the controller, and enjoy stick-free triggers.
I really wish Ouya would have done that first-hand. It is a very easy thing to fix that would not have cost them much... Hope that helps!
dyniper said:
I posted that to Reddit a little bit ago:
How to make trigger buttons smooth as butter:
The problem is that there is no grease on the plastic-on-plastic movement of the triggers. I did that for both my controllers (maybe I should have made a video...):
Remove the 2 face plates and batteries
Remove the 6 screws of the controller and open it up
Get yourself non conducting grease (search Amazon for dielectric grease)
Apply one small dot of grease at all these areas (look at attached picture) (basically everywhere plastic slides on plastic)
Action the trigger many times to distribute the grease
Re-assemble the controller, and enjoy stick-free triggers.
I really wish Ouya would have done that first-hand. It is a very easy thing to fix that would not have cost them much... Hope that helps!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Petroleum jelly is what i used
modder420 said:
Petroleum jelly is what i used
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Click to collapse
Now there's an idea, didn't think of that. Although, my WD40 method is still working a treat.