Related
I use the k-jam alot. and after taking the pencil out and back in again it has got so loose now that it usually drops out. any one else hade same problem and how did you resolve it?
I had same problem with my BA. I'm not sure the wizard has same retention tab, but if it does, then this works.
-Back up your data.
-Remove the cover you will find a small tab in the stylus channel intended to engage the notch cut into the stylus. Gently push the tab back into the stylus channel so that it will engage the stylus notch once again. Be careful if you push it too far it will break.
-Slide the stylus into the channel to verify that the tab again engages the stylus notch.
-Remove the stylus again.
-Apply a small dab silicone sealant (available at any hardware store) behind the stylus retention tab. This is the "V" shaped area between the tab and the case. Be sure to fill this entire area. When the silicone has cured it will become a spring with much better position memory then the original plastic tab had on its own.
-Allow 24 hours for the silicone to cure before inserting the stylus into the channel.
I believe this is more then a repair, it is an upgrade.
Good Luck,
N2O2
Thanks for the tips.
I was just thinking of what to do when i came acroos some bluetac .
I put some blutac in the hole were the stylus goes and pushed the pen in. and it was a miracle !!! The stylus stayes in with a good hold and it comes out clean with no bluetac on it.
whe the bluetac trys to come out it has no room coz the stylus filles the space so it stays in the edges and grips the stulus pen and keeps it from getting loose. .
problem solved !!
Nice Catch
I put some blutac in the hole were the stylus goes and pushed the pen in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Gave the Bluetac method a whirl on my K-Jam after the stylus starting dropping out. Works a treat..
Nice one.
Nice Catch
I put some blutac in the hole were the stylus goes and pushed the pen in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Gave the Bluetac method a whirl on my K-Jam after the stylus starting dropping out. Works a treat..
Nice one.
Yes it does.
Easy and simple way of not opening or messing about with k-jam to void warranty.
I mean. you will not viod waranty this way, but will if you open the k-jam
one time around the stylus with some tape works great to.
But what happen if the blutac starts to ware off?
But what happen if the blutac starts to ware off?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then I'll pop the case :shock: , extract the bluetac and do the silicone mod.
I'd be surprised if it does wear off though. It's superb stuff that's saved me a few quid in the past when in rented accomodation - bluetac and tippex to create the illusion of undamaged walls :wink:
Can you please give me a hint what "bluetac" is or means ?
I have dismantled mine, and I can see why this is breaking - see my post regarding the sylus silo.
when the stylus is getting loose, when you are pushing it in do you "feel" it going further forward than it did before?
It is because the plastic tab is not strong enough to resist the pen, and you are now pushing it further forward than you did before.
This is what causes the stress on the plastic, and then the crack. This black plastic part is molded to the entire back of the phone.
I have fixed this by wedging some folded paper behind the black plastic clip, and it is back to normal. I was lucky - I had not stressed mine enough that the plastic had cracked.
I have taken some photos of how to get the back off, I will post them when I return from my business travel.
Jon
Can you please give me a hint what "bluetac" is or means ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ignoring my [email protected] spelling (should be "Blutac"), it's this stuff: http://www.paperstone.co.uk/BrowseProductDisplay.aspx?ProductId=17307&CategoryId=579-580-594
I'd be interested in seeing the photos on how to dismantle.
It is because the plastic tab is not strong enough to resist the pen, and you are now pushing it further forward than you did before.
This is what causes the stress on the plastic, and then the crack. This black plastic part is molded to the entire back of the phone.
I have fixed this by wedging some folded paper behind the black plastic clip, and it is back to normal. I was lucky - I had not stressed mine enough that the plastic had cracked.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have now started collapsing the stylus before inserting it into the hole so it doesn't push against the end and only goes as far as the moulded plastic bit at the top.
just wrap a piece of tape around the stylus and it fits like a glove again.
leploep
This is only a temp fix, did that and after a week or two back to the stylus dropping out. I am waiting for the pics on how to get the back off and do a more permanent solution, you would think Imate would have caught this in their product testing phase before going to production.
sunseaker said:
I have now started collapsing the stylus before inserting it into the hole so it doesn't push against the end and only goes as far as the moulded plastic bit at the top.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've always done this as it does not seem to fully shink other wise... seems Ok so far.
marka2k said:
leploep
This is only a temp fix, did that and after a week or two back to the stylus dropping out. I am waiting for the pics on how to get the back off and do a more permanent solution, you would think Imate would have caught this in their product testing phase before going to production.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Personally I think on the bottom of the phone is daft in the first place... or is this just me ?
Terran
the pics are in the upload folder, called wizardpics.zip - the ftp upload attachment does not seem to be working?
to remove the top half I used a flat knife. It is quite resistant. You can see where the tabs are in the pic.
To remove the back completely, you need to remove the void sticker, and under there is a screw. there is also one opposite.
You will also need to remove the 2 screws at the bottom, one in the stylus channel, and the other on the opposite side.
then use a plastic splitting tool if you have one, or a credit card to work round the case.
you can see in the pics where this comes off.
You then want to re-enforce behind the stylus notch. I used a piece of folded card.
chakra said:
one time around the stylus with some tape works great to.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
where exactly are you putting the tape which end
i did the blutac thing but might have put too much in cos the grey plastic end i use to pull stylus out just broke!
I've gotten som scratches on the piece under the hardware buttons, I don't know where they have come from. All of sudden they where there..
Anybody know how to polish or remove them...?
I had a similar thing...i am currently using a silicon case which covers that area...so i'm guessing dirt got in. however, what i did to "repair" it (don't laugh, this worked) was to take a TINY amount of my girlfriend's exfoliating facewash (with tiny granules in it) and just rub the area gently for a while. VOILA! (oh, and i'm guessing one shouldn't over do it. as in, don't scrub till your thumb bleeds)
let me know if that works
Is this silver colored piece below the hardware buttons you refer to actually metallic or plastic colored metallic?
It's genuine anoxidized aluminium
Looks like titanium but it's not.
Drag-On said:
I had a similar thing...i am currently using a silicon case which covers that area...so i'm guessing dirt got in. however, what i did to "repair" it (don't laugh, this worked) was to take a TINY amount of my girlfriend's exfoliating facewash (with tiny granules in it) and just rub the area gently for a while. VOILA! (oh, and i'm guessing one shouldn't over do it. as in, don't scrub till your thumb bleeds)
let me know if that works
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What if I don't have a girlfriend haha
But thanks a lot for the answers!! I was thinking car polish, but I will try your method..
Good deal, I wondered as it looks like it could be plastic...
Something I always liked about my Kaiser was having a lanyard attached to it. I did this after dropping it a couple of times due to it slipping out of my hand.
As the HD2 is even more slippery in my fingers and probably more likely to shatter or break on dropping, I was disappointed that there was no lanyard hole.
I contemplated drilling a hole in battery cover but didn't have a drill. So I've duct taped a lanyard onto the back, a la the attached pic.
First I lay the lanyard ring on the back and threaded duct tape through it, locking the lanyard ring to the phone. Then I layered a bit more duct tape on top to give it some strength.
It may look a bit messy and I could have done it neater. At the end of the day it will (hopefully) stop me dropping and breaking a £500 phone which I'm happy about. It's also surprisingly strong and will give an indication before it eventually gives way. Takes about 2 minutes.
Edit: Ugly duct tape method replaced by neater black tape version.
Edit2: Video howto added: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yL3owsWT3E4
Disclaimer: If you try this and end up dropping your HD2 anyway, I accept no responsibility!
That could be the worst monstrosity to a HD2 Ive ever seen.
Haha, you may be right. But I don't have a mobile phone to look pretty, I have it to use it and rely on it to be working when I need it, not broken into 100 pieces on the floor.
Here's a neater black tape version. Not sure it will be as strong as the first though.
Biffy said:
Here's a neater black tape version. Not sure it will be as strong as the first though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
looks sooo fragile , also u should try take it to a gravire-er if u dont have a drill and make a hole suitable
Job done no messing!
I can't understand why HC didnt add a lanyard bar and at the end of the day your solution will work and probably save your phone one day.
Nice graduated background on your photo and good image quality, what camera did you use?
It's the Panasonic FT1. A little waterproof compact.
Combining duct tape as the first layer and then black tape over for neatness is the best solution so far.
I've also considered super gluing the lanyard into the 3.5mm jack, but know I'd regret doing it straight after!
well, you guys aint the first to do this.
i invented a similar design a few weeks ago, mine used a 1" belt, meaning it can be strapped to your waist any time you like, safe as houses and pretty cool aesthetically
Final version
After a bit of testing, this is the final method I will use.
Some folded black tape under the battery cover. The battery cover adds extra strength to the tape and it looks so much neater than the Duct tape.
to be honest, that is just ugly. sorry.
I also missed such a whole for it, as I also did that with my Kaiser.
Now I sticked to a Silicon/Plastic Combi Case
why dont you get a jelly case or something like that and you can make hole in it. tape will hold fora few days only
I'm going to get a case as well I think. But the tape solution outlined which is partly under the battery case will last a lot longer than a few days.
The tape should only be under any pressure if you're about to drop your HD2, which won't be that often and then the weight isn't that great.
I think it's a great idea, and the 'under battery cover' mod (V 1.3? ) looks fine. I'm going to try copying it so I can clip it to my handbag, but with fishing line for the loop.
Mariad said:
I think it's a great idea, and the 'under battery cover' mod (V 1.3? ) looks fine. I'm going to try copying it so I can clip it to my handbag, but with fishing line for the loop.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I agree. The third version looks nice and clean! The only question is: What did you attach the tape to? To the cover itself? Because I wonder how much strength it requires to pull off the cover and if that wouldn't happen if the device falls...
EDIT: I love how you labeled this a "hack"!
I attached the tape to the plastic under the cover, where the sim card is. I'll put a quick video together to illustrate.
I left it hanging by the lanyard last night, for about 7 hours, 7 feet in the air, no probs. It's not intended to be pulled as hard as a regular lanyard loop may be, but for a precaution if the phone slips from your hands. And then it will be fine.
And here's the not very good howto video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yL3owsWT3E4
I dont mean to jinx you or anything, but the piece of string from the lanyard could easily split the single layer of duct tape where it's folded.. that's going to be where the weak point is....especially considering the weight of the HD2. It's not going to matter how many pieces of tape you've got under the batter cover.
Now if you were to have your HD2 on a desk or in your pocket, the temptation of grabbing it by the lanyard will be there... or if someone else decided to yank the lanyard.....
I'd suggest trying that method of attachment on something of a similar weight and shaking it around for a bit to see how the duct tape handles.
Remember... the HD2 screen is thin glass... One drop on a hard surface or if it lands at the wrong angle, it'll be time to order a new one!
I've tested it by pulling far more strongly on the lanyard than it ever would be subjected to in real use. I was able to pull it hard about 20 times before the tape started to give way. By then it was visibly starting to tear away, so you should have a good warning before it breaks. It will perfectly suit my needs anyway and I might try doubling the tape up for more strength next. Also, I think this could be improved by using even stronger tape.
Very good on the last release.
Great idea, man.
I'm going to try, but I've only two left hands....
Pink strap should be nice too ;-)
PLEASE HELP
My wife has this phone..(so do i) well anyway she found a way to do the impossible. she broke her headphone jack in the headphone hole. The tip broke and the bottom is logged in the hole. I tried to get some super glue to perhaps stick it together and pull it out..this did not work. I took the back cover off to get more access but still cant get it..any one have any suggestions...now i also have a lot of superglue residue in the hole. is there any way to open this thing and get the rest of the plug out? BTW it is not the N1 headphone but another brand. PLEASE HELP
Is the tip hollow? If so you could try taking a small screw into it in order to have something to pull it out with.
aj
how deep is the remaining part?
the tip is not hollow and the shaft part is broke off under the plastic part.
ok this is not a joke.....
BUT if you are feeling "ballsy"
take your average sewing needle and heat it up with a lighter stove w/e unitll it is red-hot. USE A PLIERS TO HOLD IT
then plunge it into the center of the remenants and let it cool
only try this if there is some plastic left in there.
lol...I will try that...hope it works, how will the needle grip the broken part of the headphone. would it just pull right out.. I need something to grab or grip the broken part....I dont want to break my phone.
Well the poster with the needle idea has the goal of having the hot needle cool with melted plastic from piece that is broke off. Once cool, the hope is that the plastic will adhere to the needle (now completely cool) and allow you to pull it free.
I have some reservations about this idea. How did she break the tip off. Was it a sideways motion? Or did you try to correctly remove the plug but for some reason it was stuck and the tip was left lodged in?
If it was the later of those, the needle idea will do nothing. It may work is it happened the first way I described.
An alternative to the needle idea and potentially more damaging is to take a paper clip, place a small bead of solder on the tip. Avoid touching any of the phones internals with the solder and press that paper clip up against the broken tip. It should not take long to cool. Once it does, it may give the the force you need to pull it free.
Please report back when you have sorted this out. We are all curious.
maybe a little dab of jbweld or gorilla glue, if worst comes to worse of course. It would be much easier if it were hollow.
What about a really strong magnet?
gIMpSTa said:
What about a really strong magnet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You want to stick a high power magnet next to a 530 dollar phone? Are you nuts?!?
The way to take out a broken screw is to drill a small whole in the center and try to wedge the smallest Allen wrench into it.
Maybe that might give you some sort of idea on how to dislodge that earpiece. I know it's not the same thing...but its N idea.
McFroger3 said:
You want to stick a high power magnet next to a 530 dollar phone? Are you nuts?!?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And what exactly do you think would happen?
I'm not talking SUPER magnet, but honestly, what component of the phone do you think is in anyway affected by a magnet?
There is a myth that magnets destroy electronics. Sure you can use a magnet to wipe a hard drive (not flash storage, talking magnetic disk) but it takes a SUPER strong magnet with a concentrated beam to do even that.
gIMpSTa said:
And what exactly do you think would happen?
I'm not talking SUPER magnet, but honestly, what component of the phone do you think is in anyway affected by a magnet?
There is a myth that magnets destroy electronics. Sure you can use a magnet to wipe a hard drive (not flash storage, talking magnetic disk) but it takes a SUPER strong magnet with a concentrated beam to do even that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Magnets will not do anything, Blackberry uses one to turn the screen on/off
did you get it out????
Not yet still trying. .already voided the warrenty
You’ve done your research, compared them all, and finally settled on a great new mechanical keyboard that elevates your experience to the maximum. But no matter which one you go for, it’s impossible for it to remain clean and fresh all the time. All the sweaty gaming sessions, crumbs of food, and of course the biggest culprit – dust! It’s a good habit to clean your keyboard at least once every couple of months and to help you out, we’ve some quick tips for keeping your precious mechanical keyboard spotless.
I’m a bit of a clean freak, so usually, there’s a dust blower and a set of cleaning brushes at hand’s reach. I end up doing a quick clean-up of my keyboard at least once a week with the occasional wiping with a microfiber cloth. While that might sound a bit too much, performing a simple clean-up at least once a month is recommended as it ensures that your keyboard runs properly for longer. The gap between your cleanups can be increased or decreased depending on various conditions like dust accumulation, how much hair/skin you shed, whether you have pets, how much food you eat while sitting at your PC, and so on.
Simple CleaningDisconnect your keyboard, turn it around, and give it a shake, so that all the loose debris can fall out. If required, use an air blower or a few light sprays of canned air to remove any remaining crumbs or debris. Do remember that you’re basically blowing dust and debris around, so unless you want a dirty desk, it’s advised to clean your keyboard out in the open. It’s also advised to be extra careful when using compressed air from a can, as there are cases when it can lead to the formation of condensation that can damage some metallic parts on the keyboard.
You can also use a cleaning brush to remove any gunk stuck between or under the keys and quickly remove them using a vacuum cleaner. To remove sweat stains, especially ones on your keys or wrist rest, use a clean damp cloth to wipe off those marks. I would highly recommend following this simple cleanup procedure regularly to avoid the accumulation of dust, food particles, hair, and dead skin underneath the keys over time.
Deep CleaningFor those who haven’t cleaned their keyboard in a very long period, it’s time for some deep cleaning. Start by following the same process as I mentioned above to shake off any loose gunk. Next, remove all the keycaps from the keyboard. These should easily come off or be removed using a keycap puller tool usually bundled with most mechanical keyboards. If you don’t have one, you can buy one from here. Ensure that you don’t use excessive force or any heavy tools that can damage the keycaps. Be careful while removing larger keys like Spacebar, Enter, and Backspace, as they may have a stabilizer for support.
If you’ve never removed keycaps in the past, head over to your keyboard OEM’s website for guidance. Also, it’s a good habit to organize the keycaps as you remove them. You can also take a picture of the keyboard layout before taking the keycaps off, as this will help you in the faster reinstallation of the keycaps.
Once you’ve removed all of them, clean the entire deck using a cleaning brush, an air blower, or a vacuum cleaner. If you spilled something on the keyboard in the past like coffee or soda, use a damp cloth to wipe off the stains. For stubborn and sticky stains, you can use a tiny bit of dishwashing solution or isopropyl alcohol as well. Make sure you don’t use any liquids directly on the keyboard; rather apply some directly onto a cleaning cloth. This is to ensure that no liquid enters the internals, which could potentially damage the keyboard permanently. Do check the keyboard feet for any grime or dust buildup and a quick look at the keyboard cable to ensure there’s no potential damage.
Clean each keycap with a damp cloth or simply throw them in water with some soap if you want all your keys to be shiny on the inside and outside. Wipe off any stains and let them dry off. If you’ve used any liquids, I recommend leaving the keyboard and the keycaps to dry overnight. After you’ve ensured that everything is clean, start by putting back the keycaps on the mainboard. Whatever you do, be certain that everything is completely dry before plugging the keyboard into your PC.
Further MaintenanceTo further maintain the longevity of your keyboard, make sure you take time to clean it periodically. In fact, ensure that you clean all your PC parts at regular intervals if you want them to last longer. Most importantly, manage your cables. Not only does that make your setup look good, but it also ensures that the cables don’t wear out quickly. If the cable on your keyboard is long and just hanging about, use some velcro or zip ties to tidy it up.
We have also listed down some of the best mechanical keyboards to buy this year, in case you are planning to buy one.
Here is a list of some of the items mentioned above:
Dust cleaning air blower
Anti-static cleaning brush kit
Key puller
Compressed air can
Velcro straps
I spray my keyboard out with an air duster every once in a while, but I really need to pop the keys off to get a proper clean.
Best to not require a deep cleaning.
Low pressure air should be enough.
Don't drink or eat around the keyboard...
Cover with a cloth, etc when not in use.
blackhawk said:
Best to not require a deep cleaning.
Low pressure air should be enough.
Don't drink or eat around the keyboard...
Cover with a cloth, etc when not in use.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using the plastic cover which came along woth my Sharkoon Skiller MECH SGK3 to protect it over night from dust. If I have to remove dust, I'm using an Opolar Air Duster(better than air duster spray and more environmental friendly)
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strongst said:
I'm using the plastic cover which came along woth my Sharkoon Skiller MECH SGK3 to protect it over night from dust. If I have to remove dust, I'm using an Opolar Air Duster(better than air duster spray and more environmental friendly)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would use my Craftsmen shop vac with the brush attachment
strongst said:
I'm using the plastic cover which came along woth my Sharkoon Skiller MECH SGK3 to protect it over night from dust. If I have to remove dust, I'm using an Opolar Air Duster(better than air duster spray and more environmental friendly)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I need one of those!
orb3000 said:
I need one of those!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I recommend to buy it from the manufacturer, took some time too deliver, but cheaper compared to amazon
I prefer the "Tony Stark Special." Cleans everything!
orb3000 said:
I need one of those!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Today I received a newsletter from opolar.com where they offer 50% including free shipping hence you can get the duster for just 28,49$
strongst said:
Today I received a newsletter from opolar.com where they offer 50% including free shipping hence you can get the duster for just 28,49$
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A brush attachment on a vacuum cleaner does the job very well plus it doesn't "throw" the dust around.
Just make sure the keys are secure...
I used my shop vac like this all the time. To clean pro cams and lens after shooting in a dusty location too. The problem with pressurized air is it can drive dust deeper into the victim device, a vacuum is less likely to. Lol, don't apply vacuum to zoom lense vent holes, etc.
blackhawk said:
A brush attachment on a vacuum cleaner does the job very well plus it doesn't "throw" the dust around.
Just make sure the keys are secure...
I used my shop vac like this all the time. To clean pro cams and lens after shooting in a dusty location too. The problem with pressurized air is it can drive dust deeper into the victim device, a vacuum is less likely to. Lol, don't apply vacuum to zoom lense vent holes, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using the opolar also for my DSLM sensor, plants(vacuum cleaner isn't practical here), to clean my vacuum cleaner(Dyson V10), RC car, my PC(small gaps and slots where the air pressure can go deeper) and so on.
I'm mainly surprised that it's better than a can of compressed gas. Same and steady pressure, no ice, no harmful/inflammable gas and cheaper.
Of course, there are cases where a vacuum cleaner does a better job, as you explained
strongst said:
I'm using the opolar also for my DSLM sensor, plants(vacuum cleaner isn't practical here), to clean my vacuum cleaner(Dyson V10), RC car, my PC(small gaps and slots where the air pressure can go deeper) and so on.
I'm mainly surprised that it's better than a can of compressed gas. Same and steady pressure, no ice, no harmful/inflammable gas and cheaper.
Of course, there are cases where a vacuum cleaner does a better job, as you explained
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use both sometimes together. I use a 10 psi dry air source as well for delicate devices.
High pressure air is not recommended and canned air can cause condensation if colder than ambient temperature... definitely not desirable.
strongst said:
Today I received a newsletter from opolar.com where they offer 50% including free shipping hence you can get the duster for just 28,49$
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the heads up!
If you're going to get a vacuum cleaner for use on a PC, consider buying a proper anti-static or "IT" vacuum. Most normal vacuum cleaners can produce a build-up of static charge which, if discharged into electronics, cause permanently damage them.
At work, we use a slightly uncool ESD vacuum cleaner. It's very powerful and we can use it inside computers and on any sensitive broadcast equipment without worrying about killing memory chips or damaging other components.
Anti-Static Vacuum Cleaner | ESD Vacuuming Solutions | Bondline
A lightweight ESD vacuum cleaner for precise removal of dust particles and debris from electrostatic sensitive devices. Shop here.
www.bondline.co.uk
orb_selektor said:
Thanks for the heads up!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For what it's worth, I navigated to that site and my Fakespot extension immediately flagged this seller as problematic:
As usual, buyer beware. That product looks pretty cheaply made for an expensive sticker price and hardly what I'd call durable. Save your money and buy better.
christopherwoods said:
If you're going to get a vacuum cleaner for use on a PC, consider buying a proper anti-static or "IT" vacuum. Most normal vacuum cleaners can produce a build-up of static charge which, if discharged into electronics, cause permanently damage them.
At work, we use a slightly uncool ESD vacuum cleaner. It's very powerful and we can use it inside computers and on any sensitive broadcast equipment without worrying about killing memory chips or damaging other components.
Anti-Static Vacuum Cleaner | ESD Vacuuming Solutions | Bondline
A lightweight ESD vacuum cleaner for precise removal of dust particles and debris from electrostatic sensitive devices. Shop here.
www.bondline.co.uk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol I saw those cute, expensive ESD tech vacs over a decade ago. If cleaning PC's, Xray equipment etc professionally I probably invest in a big expensive one.
The only time I'm really concerned with the shop vac is with loose out of circuit components and PCB's. It goes no where near them.
It is unlikely anything will be damaged as the keyboard inputs are fairly well protected.
If concerned disconnect from the PC and earth ground discharge yourself before reconnecting.
Carelessly plugging in to USB ports with a high static charge on their person is how most people damage a PC with static. Or sometimes touching the keyboard on a dry day. Simply touching an earth ground before touching the keyboard prevents that. Something I actually do in the winter.
Wear cotton not wool or synthetics...
I used the 6hp wet/dry vac for years on my pro cams, laptops and keyboards with zero damage.
To generate a static charge a good flow of particles must be present. There's just not that much dust.
The greatest hazard is too much suction sucking up a loose part or in the case of lens if you're not careful to avoid the vents, sucking dust into them.
If the RH is below 50% you might want to wait
For cleaning out PC cases I simply use compressed clean air and the shop vac to catch the dust. In circuit components like ram sticks are well protected especially if the case/power supply are earth grounded ie plugged in. I was however careful not to get too close to components with the compressed air or go too nuts with huge clouds of dust.
If really concerned about ESD, get a quality ESD meter. That's the only way to know what's there.
There's much more static present of materials and objects than most could imagine especially on dry days. Once charged it can linger for minutes or hours.
As with anything though, use your best judgment.
Better safe than sorry at least until you get tired of goofing and around getting nowhere
christopherwoods said:
For what it's worth, I navigated to that site and my Fakespot extension immediately flagged this seller as problematic:
View attachment 5403495
View attachment 5403497
As usual, buyer beware. That product looks pretty cheaply made for an expensive sticker price and hardly what I'd call durable. Save your money and buy better.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought 3 times there(while products on sale) and the seller is reliable and shipping is fast including the quality of the products which they deliver. They even gave me a partial refund for shippiong the wrong color.
christopherwoods said:
If you're going to get a vacuum cleaner for use on a PC, consider buying a proper anti-static or "IT" vacuum. Most normal vacuum cleaners can produce a build-up of static charge which, if discharged into electronics, cause permanently damage them.
At work, we use a slightly uncool ESD vacuum cleaner. It's very powerful and we can use it inside computers and on any sensitive broadcast equipment without worrying about killing memory chips or damaging other components.
Anti-Static Vacuum Cleaner | ESD Vacuuming Solutions | Bondline
A lightweight ESD vacuum cleaner for precise removal of dust particles and debris from electrostatic sensitive devices. Shop here.
www.bondline.co.uk
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There's one other fly in the ointment with non ESD vacs and even potentially ESD vacs that use a brush attachment. The high volume air flow causes the bristles to rub against themselves and the objects they touch.
This can produce static electricity and a charge potential can build up. Potentially discharging to anything it touches.
Static conductive bristles with an earth ground metal holder at their base would help dissipate the build up charge. A modified shop vac ESD adapter could be made like this.
I assume the whole body, hose and tools of the ESD vacs are made of conductive plastic, or a variation as described above, to bled off charges.
Regardless the conductive ESD plastic(s) should be earth grounded.
Also even if these precautions are taken static charge potential will build up to some extent; your goal is to limit production/voltage potential and slow discharge through contacted charged objects enough to prevent damaging voltage potential/current volume to flow through sensitive components. This may not be possible especially in dry conditions.
Always double check the actual value being generated with a good ESD meter.
Out of circuit components and assemblies are at very high risk of ESD damage; never vacuum these! Use compressed clean air instead.
Using a high volume balanced air ionizer in close proximity is another solution and probably the best
kunalneo said:
You’ve done your research, compared them all, and finally settled on a great new mechanical keyboard that elevates your experience to the maximum. But no matter which one you go for, it’s impossible for it to remain clean and fresh all the time. All the sweaty gaming sessions, crumbs of food, and of course the biggest culprit – dust! It’s a good habit to clean your keyboard at least once every couple of months and to help you out, we’ve some quick tips for keeping your precious mechanical keyboard spotless.
I’m a bit of a clean freak, so usually, there’s a dust blower and a set of cleaning brushes at hand’s reach. I end up doing a quick clean-up of my keyboard at least once a week with the occasional wiping with a microfiber cloth. While that might sound a bit too much, performing a simple clean-up at least once a month is recommended as it ensures that your keyboard runs properly for longer. The gap between your cleanups can be increased or decreased depending on various conditions like dust accumulation, how much hair/skin you shed, whether you have pets, how much food you eat while sitting at your PC, and so on.
Simple CleaningDisconnect your keyboard, turn it around, and give it a shake, so that all the loose debris can fall out. If required, use an air blower or a few light sprays of canned air to remove any remaining crumbs or debris. Do remember that you’re basically blowing dust and debris around, so unless you want a dirty desk, it’s advised to clean your keyboard out in the open. It’s also advised to be extra careful when using compressed air from a can, as there are cases when it can lead to the formation of condensation that can damage some metallic parts on the keyboard.
You can also use a cleaning brush to remove any gunk stuck between or under the keys and quickly remove them using a vacuum cleaner. To remove sweat stains, especially ones on your keys or wrist rest, use a clean damp cloth to wipe off those marks. I would highly recommend following this simple cleanup procedure regularly to avoid the accumulation of dust, food particles, hair, and dead skin underneath the keys over time.
Deep CleaningFor those who haven’t cleaned their keyboard in a very long period, it’s time for some deep cleaning. Start by following the same process as I mentioned above to shake off any loose gunk. Next, remove all the keycaps from the keyboard. These should easily come off or be removed using a keycap puller tool usually bundled with most mechanical keyboards. If you don’t have one, you can buy one from here. Ensure that you don’t use excessive force or any heavy tools that can damage the keycaps. Be careful while removing larger keys like Spacebar, Enter, and Backspace, as they may have a stabilizer for support.
If you’ve never removed keycaps in the past, head over to your keyboard OEM’s website for guidance. Also, it’s a good habit to organize the keycaps as you remove them. You can also take a picture of the keyboard layout before taking the keycaps off, as this will help you in the faster reinstallation of the keycaps.
Once you’ve removed all of them, clean the entire deck using a cleaning brush, an air blower, or a vacuum cleaner. If you spilled something on the keyboard in the past like coffee or soda, use a damp cloth to wipe off the stains. For stubborn and sticky stains, you can use a tiny bit of dishwashing solution or isopropyl alcohol as well. Make sure you don’t use any liquids directly on the keyboard; rather apply some directly onto a cleaning cloth. This is to ensure that no liquid enters the internals, which could potentially damage the keyboard permanently. Do check the keyboard feet for any grime or dust buildup and a quick look at the keyboard cable to ensure there’s no potential damage.
Clean each keycap with a damp cloth or simply throw them in water with some soap if you want all your keys to be shiny on the inside and outside. Wipe off any stains and let them dry off. If you’ve used any liquids, I recommend leaving the keyboard and the keycaps to dry overnight. After you’ve ensured that everything is clean, start by putting back the keycaps on the mainboard. Whatever you do, be certain that everything is completely dry before plugging the keyboard into your PC.
Further MaintenanceTo further maintain the longevity of your keyboard, make sure you take time to clean it periodically. In fact, ensure that you clean all your PC parts at regular intervals if you want them to last longer. Most importantly, manage your cables. Not only does that make your setup look good, but it also ensures that the cables don’t wear out quickly. If the cable on your keyboard is long and just hanging about, use some velcro or zip ties to tidy it up.
We have also listed down some of the best mechanical keyboards to buy this year, in case you are planning to buy one.
Here is a list of some of the items mentioned above:
Dust cleaning air blower
Anti-static cleaning brush kit
Key puller
Compressed air can
Velcro straps
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Sometimes prevention is better than cure I have found that using either a boot rubber cover that can be easily washed in a sink of soapy water or using a vacuum machine 2 basically sous vide pack your keyboard without impairing mechanical action can sometimes help.
When it comes down to cable cleanliness I do find that bundles of cables on my desktop lead to collection of dust particles and dirt and with a high powered PC blowing 40 degree temperature air around the room this can sometimes become a major problem. I myself invested in a fairly cheap mouse and keyboard wireless setup some years ago that were both designed to shun any liquid spills this means there were membranes internally that stop any tea coffee or soft drink from invading their vitals. Also this removes the need to worry about extraneous cabling..
D.
I clean the keyboard with an air duster and sometimes cover it with a clean cloth when I don't use it. But sometimes I feel it needs deep cleaning.