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I use the k-jam alot. and after taking the pencil out and back in again it has got so loose now that it usually drops out. any one else hade same problem and how did you resolve it?
I had same problem with my BA. I'm not sure the wizard has same retention tab, but if it does, then this works.
-Back up your data.
-Remove the cover you will find a small tab in the stylus channel intended to engage the notch cut into the stylus. Gently push the tab back into the stylus channel so that it will engage the stylus notch once again. Be careful if you push it too far it will break.
-Slide the stylus into the channel to verify that the tab again engages the stylus notch.
-Remove the stylus again.
-Apply a small dab silicone sealant (available at any hardware store) behind the stylus retention tab. This is the "V" shaped area between the tab and the case. Be sure to fill this entire area. When the silicone has cured it will become a spring with much better position memory then the original plastic tab had on its own.
-Allow 24 hours for the silicone to cure before inserting the stylus into the channel.
I believe this is more then a repair, it is an upgrade.
Good Luck,
N2O2
Thanks for the tips.
I was just thinking of what to do when i came acroos some bluetac .
I put some blutac in the hole were the stylus goes and pushed the pen in. and it was a miracle !!! The stylus stayes in with a good hold and it comes out clean with no bluetac on it.
whe the bluetac trys to come out it has no room coz the stylus filles the space so it stays in the edges and grips the stulus pen and keeps it from getting loose. .
problem solved !!
Nice Catch
I put some blutac in the hole were the stylus goes and pushed the pen in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Gave the Bluetac method a whirl on my K-Jam after the stylus starting dropping out. Works a treat..
Nice one.
Nice Catch
I put some blutac in the hole were the stylus goes and pushed the pen in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Gave the Bluetac method a whirl on my K-Jam after the stylus starting dropping out. Works a treat..
Nice one.
Yes it does.
Easy and simple way of not opening or messing about with k-jam to void warranty.
I mean. you will not viod waranty this way, but will if you open the k-jam
one time around the stylus with some tape works great to.
But what happen if the blutac starts to ware off?
But what happen if the blutac starts to ware off?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then I'll pop the case :shock: , extract the bluetac and do the silicone mod.
I'd be surprised if it does wear off though. It's superb stuff that's saved me a few quid in the past when in rented accomodation - bluetac and tippex to create the illusion of undamaged walls :wink:
Can you please give me a hint what "bluetac" is or means ?
I have dismantled mine, and I can see why this is breaking - see my post regarding the sylus silo.
when the stylus is getting loose, when you are pushing it in do you "feel" it going further forward than it did before?
It is because the plastic tab is not strong enough to resist the pen, and you are now pushing it further forward than you did before.
This is what causes the stress on the plastic, and then the crack. This black plastic part is molded to the entire back of the phone.
I have fixed this by wedging some folded paper behind the black plastic clip, and it is back to normal. I was lucky - I had not stressed mine enough that the plastic had cracked.
I have taken some photos of how to get the back off, I will post them when I return from my business travel.
Jon
Can you please give me a hint what "bluetac" is or means ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ignoring my [email protected] spelling (should be "Blutac"), it's this stuff: http://www.paperstone.co.uk/BrowseProductDisplay.aspx?ProductId=17307&CategoryId=579-580-594
I'd be interested in seeing the photos on how to dismantle.
It is because the plastic tab is not strong enough to resist the pen, and you are now pushing it further forward than you did before.
This is what causes the stress on the plastic, and then the crack. This black plastic part is molded to the entire back of the phone.
I have fixed this by wedging some folded paper behind the black plastic clip, and it is back to normal. I was lucky - I had not stressed mine enough that the plastic had cracked.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have now started collapsing the stylus before inserting it into the hole so it doesn't push against the end and only goes as far as the moulded plastic bit at the top.
just wrap a piece of tape around the stylus and it fits like a glove again.
leploep
This is only a temp fix, did that and after a week or two back to the stylus dropping out. I am waiting for the pics on how to get the back off and do a more permanent solution, you would think Imate would have caught this in their product testing phase before going to production.
sunseaker said:
I have now started collapsing the stylus before inserting it into the hole so it doesn't push against the end and only goes as far as the moulded plastic bit at the top.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've always done this as it does not seem to fully shink other wise... seems Ok so far.
marka2k said:
leploep
This is only a temp fix, did that and after a week or two back to the stylus dropping out. I am waiting for the pics on how to get the back off and do a more permanent solution, you would think Imate would have caught this in their product testing phase before going to production.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Personally I think on the bottom of the phone is daft in the first place... or is this just me ?
Terran
the pics are in the upload folder, called wizardpics.zip - the ftp upload attachment does not seem to be working?
to remove the top half I used a flat knife. It is quite resistant. You can see where the tabs are in the pic.
To remove the back completely, you need to remove the void sticker, and under there is a screw. there is also one opposite.
You will also need to remove the 2 screws at the bottom, one in the stylus channel, and the other on the opposite side.
then use a plastic splitting tool if you have one, or a credit card to work round the case.
you can see in the pics where this comes off.
You then want to re-enforce behind the stylus notch. I used a piece of folded card.
chakra said:
one time around the stylus with some tape works great to.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
where exactly are you putting the tape which end
i did the blutac thing but might have put too much in cos the grey plastic end i use to pull stylus out just broke!
PLEASE HELP
My wife has this phone..(so do i) well anyway she found a way to do the impossible. she broke her headphone jack in the headphone hole. The tip broke and the bottom is logged in the hole. I tried to get some super glue to perhaps stick it together and pull it out..this did not work. I took the back cover off to get more access but still cant get it..any one have any suggestions...now i also have a lot of superglue residue in the hole. is there any way to open this thing and get the rest of the plug out? BTW it is not the N1 headphone but another brand. PLEASE HELP
Is the tip hollow? If so you could try taking a small screw into it in order to have something to pull it out with.
aj
how deep is the remaining part?
the tip is not hollow and the shaft part is broke off under the plastic part.
ok this is not a joke.....
BUT if you are feeling "ballsy"
take your average sewing needle and heat it up with a lighter stove w/e unitll it is red-hot. USE A PLIERS TO HOLD IT
then plunge it into the center of the remenants and let it cool
only try this if there is some plastic left in there.
lol...I will try that...hope it works, how will the needle grip the broken part of the headphone. would it just pull right out.. I need something to grab or grip the broken part....I dont want to break my phone.
Well the poster with the needle idea has the goal of having the hot needle cool with melted plastic from piece that is broke off. Once cool, the hope is that the plastic will adhere to the needle (now completely cool) and allow you to pull it free.
I have some reservations about this idea. How did she break the tip off. Was it a sideways motion? Or did you try to correctly remove the plug but for some reason it was stuck and the tip was left lodged in?
If it was the later of those, the needle idea will do nothing. It may work is it happened the first way I described.
An alternative to the needle idea and potentially more damaging is to take a paper clip, place a small bead of solder on the tip. Avoid touching any of the phones internals with the solder and press that paper clip up against the broken tip. It should not take long to cool. Once it does, it may give the the force you need to pull it free.
Please report back when you have sorted this out. We are all curious.
maybe a little dab of jbweld or gorilla glue, if worst comes to worse of course. It would be much easier if it were hollow.
What about a really strong magnet?
gIMpSTa said:
What about a really strong magnet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You want to stick a high power magnet next to a 530 dollar phone? Are you nuts?!?
The way to take out a broken screw is to drill a small whole in the center and try to wedge the smallest Allen wrench into it.
Maybe that might give you some sort of idea on how to dislodge that earpiece. I know it's not the same thing...but its N idea.
McFroger3 said:
You want to stick a high power magnet next to a 530 dollar phone? Are you nuts?!?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And what exactly do you think would happen?
I'm not talking SUPER magnet, but honestly, what component of the phone do you think is in anyway affected by a magnet?
There is a myth that magnets destroy electronics. Sure you can use a magnet to wipe a hard drive (not flash storage, talking magnetic disk) but it takes a SUPER strong magnet with a concentrated beam to do even that.
gIMpSTa said:
And what exactly do you think would happen?
I'm not talking SUPER magnet, but honestly, what component of the phone do you think is in anyway affected by a magnet?
There is a myth that magnets destroy electronics. Sure you can use a magnet to wipe a hard drive (not flash storage, talking magnetic disk) but it takes a SUPER strong magnet with a concentrated beam to do even that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Magnets will not do anything, Blackberry uses one to turn the screen on/off
did you get it out????
Not yet still trying. .already voided the warrenty
One of the first things I noticed about my Atrix is that the battery cover doesn't sit completely flush on the right side -- there is a tiny gap, and the cover creaks whenever I put any amount of pressure on that side. It's making this otherwise nice hardware feel pretty cheap.
Is anyone else experiencing this? Anything I can do to fix it myself?
my atrix fits well tho, maybe u need a replacement
give it a pretty firm push. theres little tabs in there that feel like theyre going to crack but they will keep it slightly up if not forced down. just make sure its lined up good and it should be ok
trapjawmusic said:
give it a pretty firm push. theres little tabs in there that feel like theyre going to crack but they will keep it slightly up if not forced down. just make sure its lined up good and it should be ok
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
this.
when the chick at the store handed me the phone there was a gap on one side, i had to push on it pretty hard for it to snap into place
There should be a little gap on both sides, that's so you can get a fingernail in there to pull it open. If nothing is jamming the clips and it doesn't fit right...heck, it is just molded plastic and sometimes the plastic isn't molded right, take it back. See if they'll swap a cover for you.
Rred said:
There should be a little gap on both sides, that's so you can get a fingernail in there to pull it open. If nothing is jamming the clips and it doesn't fit right...heck, it is just molded plastic and sometimes the plastic isn't molded right, take it back. See if they'll swap a cover for you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uuh.... no.... you open the case by pulling from the top while grasping the sides. The sides of the rear cover are supposed to be sealed flush with the rounded side bits of the back of the phone.
Oooh, that was much easier!
NOW I get it.
Postal, you guys got me playing with my battery cover, trying to teach my fingers how to make it pop easily.
And I realized ONE SIDE had a tight fit, the other side had a fingernail-sized gap. Played around some more, and evrentually found that if I seated the "loose" side first, the other side would snap down tight, so the cover fits nice and tight all the way around.
It should matter, but apparently it does. If you carefully seat the "wide" side first, the whole thing may snap down nice and tight.
FWIW.
EDIT
"meyourchum" has provded a link to get offical disassembly instruction with lot more information.
Check it for yourself
Hello folks,
I had a chance to work on my friends arc who bought a Rogers version and dropped it. He had it totally mess on the case and needed the full housing replacement.
I hope that doesn't happen to anyone. I didn't take any photos but I am trying to explain everything as it was to help anyone with this.
General Note:
- Anywhere you got stuck, watch some X10 Disassembly video
- Be very gentle to your phone in this process
- Besides all the screws the rest of the phone is put together with glue(Sticky Back) and snap(plastic for main board)
- Using this information on your own risk as I don't take any responsibility if anything happens to your phone.
Instruction
1) Remove the back battery cover. Thats the easiest part
2) Need star shaped screw driver[Trox](I bought the set for $5) there are 4 screws like that and two which opens with phillips screwdriver(tiny) This is what I bought
All the above we all have seen them
3) After removing the 6 screws remove the front fascia of the phone with a guitar picks, something skinny but sturdy*
* I recommend not using anything other than rubber or plastic in the whole process.
4) Main board is snapped in with plastic to the body which easily can be opened.
5) Little board on the bottom is glued(sticky back @ top) which you can remove with pulling little hard but make sure you don't break it.
6) Majority of the wire you see connected to mainboard can be discounted (snap in wires)
7) Removing the screen: from outside of the phone (like you are looking directly to screen like you normally do) you need to put something under neat and raise up the screen. This part has glue as well and its hard to lift but I did it and it should be possible.
8) if you are doing a full housing replacement, then there are stuff here and there that you need to remove and re-use it on the new housing(Like 3.5 mm jack, HDMI lid, etc.)
Good Luck and let me know if you have any questions.
1st time... ehm.. taking the Arc apart, that is!
Helluw there
Just read your post, and thought I wanted to share with you, that I might be opening one of these slick little things. My friend broke his display, and the ISP is talking about some 'off the scale' repair prizes.
...So, he asked me to do the job
Told him I didn't have any experience on the disassembling of this phonetype, but he trusts me it seems
I might return with some questions in case of problems, is that OK with you Nimche?
Greetingz
Hope u have the courage to make a video next time
Sent from my Arc using XDA premium App
xelion said:
Helluw there
Just read your post, and thought I wanted to share with you, that I might be opening one of these slick little things. My friend broke his display, and the ISP is talking about some 'off the scale' repair prizes.
...So, he asked me to do the job
Told him I didn't have any experience on the disassembling of this phonetype, but he trusts me it seems
I might return with some questions in case of problems, is that OK with you Nimche?
Greetingz
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, no problem. I would be more than happy to answer. Lets see just some general stuff...
Note: anywhere you got stuck, watch some X10 Disassembly video
Note: be very gentle to your phone in this process
- you remove the back battery cover. Thats the easiest part
- you need that star shaped screw driver(I bought the set for $5) there are 4 screws like that and two which opens with phillips screwdriver(tiny)
All the above we all have seen them
after removing the 6 screws
note: besides all the screws the rest of the phone is put together with glue and snap(plastic for main board)
- remove the front fascia of the phone with a guitar picks, something skinny but sturdy*
* I recommend not using anything other than rubber or plastic in the whole process.
- main board is snapped in with plastic to the body which easily can be opened. I change full housing and not sure if you have to remove the hard key button from the bottom end of the phone too or not but that little board on the bottom is glue which you can remove with pulling little hard but make sure you don't break it.
- All the wire you see connected to mainboard can be discounted (snap in wires)
- There is a big one which goes to the screen you have to dis-attach that before removing the screen
- Removing the screen: from outside of the phone (like you are looking directly to screen like you normally do) you need to put something under neat and raise up the screen. This part has glue as well and its hard to lift but I did it and it should be possible.
Good Luck and let me know if you have any questions.
Can you answer this??? It get's hot here (and also in the same spot on the front.. so what's inside at this point??
CPU is right behind the second cover. I wish I could take some photos.
Nimche said:
CPU is right behind the second cover. I wish I could take some photos.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the clarification. I was also suspecting since this area gets damn hot when playing games and even at charging (sometimes).
So seems like they move the CPU from behind the battery in X10 to near to the camera in Arc .
Can I change only the front faceplate around the screen without removing the mainboard? How easy would that be? I want to change mine to Misty Silver as Rogers only carry the Midnight Blue.
Also, for glued parts, do I have to glue them back on the new housing?
hellocng said:
Can I change only the front faceplate around the screen without removing the mainboard? How easy would that be? I want to change mine to Misty Silver as Rogers only carry the Midnight Blue.
Also, for glued parts, do I have to glue them back on the new housing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glue part, they are more sticky than glued. You just simply stick it back where it was.
Where is the silver face you found?
This is retarded from them...
Digitizer and screen(one part) are sticked to the front face. In order to for your to change the faceplate only(front) you may have to go through the whole process because the wires from digitizer are going through a big hole to the main board. You don't want to mess around with $700 or $800.
Inside, everything is small. really small. I thought I totally screwed up the whole thing. Technology has gone forward alot since I was a kid putting radio together.
Good Luck
prathaban said:
Thanks for the clarification. I was also suspecting since this area gets damn hot when playing games and even at charging (sometimes).
So seems like they move the CPU from behind the battery in X10 to near to the camera in Arc .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, there are two board one above battery and one below batter @ bottom of the phone
On top is the main board
on bottom is the board for hard keys.
Nicely put together but they could have done a better job there....
Are there three parts to the housing? I assume there is the front plate, middle housing with the chrome, and the battery cover. The mainboard should be in the middle with the chrome. So I can't just detach the screen front the front plate? What is holding the three pieces of housing together? The six screws?
There are silver housings on eBay from time to time. Though, blue is a lot more common.
Three pieces. Back battery cover which is nothing.
Then there are two main pieces.
Chrome which is more like a holder of the fascia.
If I remember correctly, the front Fascia is the one holding all the board on it including that metal look piece(aluminum probably)
I will take photos and upload here...
Uploaded photos to the first post...
Hey, I'm looking to replace the chrome piece which has a few nasty chips in it, after removing the second back cover, how easy is it to take off that chrome piece?
Great post
How can I replace digitizer? I dropped my phone and the glass cracked
anyone know where i can get the tiny screw driver? I cant seem to find the correct one. they are either too small or too big.
how easy is it to replace the front cover, ive cracked the top of it and chipped a bit out the side (surrounding the screen) i presume it'd be simple enough. And does anyone know where i can get a good quality/genuine front cover replacement?
soldiers33 said:
anyone know where i can get the tiny screw driver? I cant seem to find the correct one. they are either too small or too big.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, you could have sent a private message.
I bought the screw driver here at local tool shop. Home Depot sells them.
Its called Trox Screw Driver and I bought exactly this one http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=100087664&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_sku=100087664&ci_kw={keyword}&cm_mmc=shopping-_-googleads-_-pla-_-100087664&ci_gpa=pla&locStoreNum=618
I don't have the packaging but they should be standard.
Good Luck
mps83 said:
how easy is it to replace the front cover, ive cracked the top of it and chipped a bit out the side (surrounding the screen) i presume it'd be simple enough. And does anyone know where i can get a good quality/genuine front cover replacement?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can find the whole housing between $30 to $40 but the front cover is that actual main piece that holds all the internal components + the screen.
If the crack doesn't bug you much, I would not do it since you have to replace the sticker behind you battery as well, which is not easy to peel off + you have to take the screen off the old front fascia which is glued and kind of hard to take off.
Downside of the whole thing for me was the sticker. I have to find an alternative for this problem.
Introduction:
When a button mechanically clicks, that is the signal to you that you've done your part and you should expect the button to do its part. While I've seen this on several other devices, the Nexus7 2013 apparently has a widespread problem which manifests itself in "having to press the power button a certain way". This is caused by the glue used to assemble the buttons having seeped under the contacts.
Here's the fix.
You will need:
A gituar pick
Rubbing alcohol
A Q-Tip
Superglue
Instructions:
1. Remove the back cover from the device with a gitaur pick.
2. Peel up the tape/laminate covering the power button.
click for larger picture
3. Clean off both contact surfaces using rubbing alcohol.
click for larger picture
4. Reassemble the switch by replacing the tape
5. Using just a dab of glue on the edge of the button assembly, secure the button tape/lamination back into place.
6. Reassemble the device.
Conclusion:
And that's all there is to it. You may decide to skip the superglue during reassembly, but its a good idea to use it generally as removing the tape weakens the hold of the manufacturer's adhesive.
Make no mistakes, this is a manufacturing defect and you should have the ability to return the device to get a new one if you experience this problem. But, after this procedure, the power button should work easily, every time.
I was wondering if I was the only one!
So what else can we do while we are in there?
silentheero said:
I was wondering if I was the only one!
So what else can we do while we are in there?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Xdatv is coming up on Wednesday and I will add that into here..
Glad to see the fix is easy. Not surprised to see the issue since Asus has just been making crap in terms of quality for a while now. Nexus 7 was better then I thought not having the crap asus quality but the new one has Asus all over it. Used Asus stuff for years and after the crap G75 laptop I had I will never get anything made by Asus. Sucks I wanted a new nexus 7 guess I'll wait till Samsung or lg or Motorola makes the third version.
Asus has just dropped off a cliff the past few years. They dident even go downhill they went from great to utter budget crap even the ROG line. Waiting to see the last great Asus products go down the same way. The Rog mobos. I was really hoping Google would push some weight saying they have to do some QC on the nexus 7.
Anyways great guide. But I'll add that on electronics you want 90%+ alch. Get the colorless with no scents added. Those leave traces behind. Should not matter on buttons like this but if anyone was wondering if they could use the red or green alch. I advise you to get the highest % with no colors or sents added. At my work for cleaning pcb's we use 98% but anything over 85% is great.
This is great to find out and I really want to do this as mine suffers from this problem quite badly but I'm hoping for just a bit more detail (and that it might be helpful for others as well).
Guitar picks come in all kinds of gauges. What did you use? (Or can you at least tell us if it was a heavy, med, or light by what manufacturer?)
Are the plastic pegs (or whatever is) holding the back on very fragile? And chance of a pic of the inside of the back so we can see where they are placed?
Thanks.
mjoa68 said:
This is great to find out and I really want to do this as mine suffers from this problem quite badly but I'm hoping for just a bit more detail (and that it might be helpful for others as well).
Guitar picks come in all kinds of gauges. What did you use? (Or can you at least tell us if it was a heavy, med, or light by what manufacturer?)
Are the plastic pegs (or whatever is) holding the back on very fragile? And chance of a pic of the inside of the back so we can see where they are placed?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Medium is probly best. I've got a teardown video coming up on Monday.
AdamOutler said:
Medium is probly best. I've got a teardown video coming up on Monday.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. Good to know there is a video coming. I got impatient and just went ahead anyway.
One thing I learned is to not start by the buttons if you can (even though the case is a bit weaker and more flexible there) because you can't really work your way around the bottom due to the usb port, and if you attempt to work your way around the top corner that has the camera in it you may very well crack the case there like I did. Didn't notice until I had it back on but there is a hair line crack running from the corner to the hole that the camera looks through. It's only noticeable if you really look for it and everything is held together just fine but thought I'd mention it in case it helps anyone else avoid the same mistake. I'd say that corner will be prone to that due to the camera hole being so close to corner edge that you are trying to pry off.
Once I finished I tried again with my brother's N7 but this time started opening from the long edge opposite the buttons and worked my way around the corner to the top edge. This allowed me to essentially just pull the case off the other top corner by the camera (with the help of a bit of careful prodding with the guitar pic) and then, once I'd freed the case from the top and sides, pull it downwards away from the USB port. (Probably obvious to most but I didn't really realize until I'd done the first one that the USB port anchors the case in place so the bottom edge must come off last, and be put back on first.)
Another thing to be aware of is that there is a very small black rubber grommet sitting over the microphone port (rectangular with a round hole in the middle). It fell off when I opened the first case but I just made sure to seat it properly before putting the case back on. It didn't move when I did the second case since I was a little less rough that time around but something to be aware of and look out for. It's pretty teeny and would be easy to lose without even noticing.
Happy to report that this really did the trick in both cases. Even though I couldn't see any glue on the contacts before cleaning, both units now wake/sleep with every click, whereas before it only worked 70-80% of the time.
I'm sure it will be worth waiting for the video Adam is planning but just thought I'd share in case anyone is as impatient as me.
mjoa68 said:
Thanks. Good to know there is a video coming. I got impatient and just went ahead anyway.
One thing I learned is to not start by the buttons if you can (even though the case is a bit weaker and more flexible there) because you can't really work your way around the bottom due to the usb port, and if you attempt to work your way around the top corner that has the camera in it you may very well crack the case there like I did. Didn't notice until I had it back on but there is a hair line crack running from the corner to the hole that the camera looks through. It's only noticeable if you really look for it and everything is held together just fine but thought I'd mention it in case it helps anyone else avoid the same mistake. I'd say that corner will be prone to that due to the camera hole being so close to corner edge that you are trying to pry off.
Once I finished I tried again with my brother's N7 but this time started opening from the long edge opposite the buttons and worked my way around the corner to the top edge. This allowed me to essentially just pull the case off the other top corner by the camera (with the help of a bit of careful prodding with the guitar pic) and then, once I'd freed the case from the top and sides, pull it downwards away from the USB port. (Probably obvious to most but I didn't really realize until I'd done the first one that the USB port anchors the case in place so the bottom edge must come off last, and be put back on first.)
Another thing to be aware of is that there is a very small black rubber grommet sitting over the microphone port (rectangular with a round hole in the middle). It fell off when I opened the first case but I just made sure to seat it properly before putting the case back on. It didn't move when I did the second case since I was a little less rough that time around but something to be aware of and look out for. It's pretty teeny and would be easy to lose without even noticing.
Happy to report that this really did the trick in both cases. Even though I couldn't see any glue on the contacts before cleaning, both units now wake/sleep with every click, whereas before it only worked 70-80% of the time.
I'm sure it will be worth waiting for the video Adam is planning but just thought I'd share in case anyone is as impatient as me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome instructions! I couldn't have stated it better. It really is a tight case though. I think starting near the buttons is fine but I worked around the top corner.
AdamOutler said:
Awesome instructions! I couldn't have stated it better. It really is a tight case though. I think starting near the buttons is fine but I worked around the top corner.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it is definitely much easier to get into the case starting near the buttons as there's more flex to it there. I suppose a better way to say it might be that if you can get started on the opposite side you will avoid possibly cracking it near the camera like I did. But you'd probably be fine starting near the buttons as long as you're very careful (and not as clumsy or impatient as I was ) working around that first corner.
I aint never had to open up anything like this and will have to to replace my screen. So glad I found this thread first and will be sure to check out the unboxing video before I do. and Yes isopropyl is a much better cleaner than other alcohol based solutions. Gonna do them buttons while Im in there.
I would not be nearly as daring to attempt any of this without the guidance from seasoned members. Thank you so much!!
Thank you so much! the power and volume buttons worked again flawlessly!
But I damaged my N7 13's thin black metal like bezels around the screen when I'm trying to open it, that stuff is really fragile :/
i did this, but i also placed on the power button contact a small piece of 'thickener'... in my case it came from a double sided tape. the sticky part contact on the power button contact, and the other side which has the cover (of the double sided tape), i didn't remove that cover. effectively, a small 'thickener'. then close back the device. fixed!
Adam, a quick question on this power/volume button thread. I got my Nexus 7 2013 version very briefly wet - I mean for a micro second. It does charge, but it won't power up. I can get it into bootloader and the volume buttons work, however, the power button does not. Is there a good way to test the power button using a multimeter or, should I just go ahead and replace the power button/volume button strip completely and hope that does the trick?
Thanks!
Chris
Chris: wet Nexus 7 bootloader only with volume buttons
Hi Chris,
My nan also got her tablet wet and can only access the bottloader with the volume buttons. Did you find a solution to make the power button work in the end? I've got a very useless paper weight sat around :/
Mike
I lost the rubber mic grommet replacing a cracked screen even knowing it was there. After 20 plus years coding with shot eyes, I paid my 2 nephews to come over and crawl around to find it (wife's phone - nuff said). Still took over an hour to find. So I put a small amount of rubber adhesive around the edges to make it fit snug. I've had it apart 4 times since and it stays put.
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