Database Users

Scratches on metal part of screen near VueFlow button

Spotted someone asking asking about this on another thread and noticed I have the same problem.
http://amd.co.at/anti/pocket/pics/Ameo/AMEO_VGA/PICT1860.JPG
(antivirus - borrowed your picture, let me know if you object and I'll remove it)
So who else has the same problem, what's causing it and what can we do to stop it?

I noticed i get that to. the only way i have found to stop it happening is to magnetise my keyboard on the outside of the case. I think its caused by the connectors for the keyboard, there are 2 little black risen points that stick out and 1 of them makes those marks. (thats what i think - anyone else know any different?)
I was cheesed off by this as having paid out for the phone and for this to happen within a week i wasnt happy. Great phone tho! So all is kinda forgiven!
We need more protective cases out there! Only 2 types i can find so far.

yeh youre right. not only does the black plastic thing line up with scratches, but i noticed some of the scratched silver metal on the black plastic thing.

Yes, looks like that's it.
Now to find an acceptable solution. I'm more than a little pissed off to be honest at such a simple design flaw.
I'm currently misaligning the keyboard with the Ameo by a few mm so that the right hand connector is off the screen and nearer the VueFlow button but this is not an acceptable solution really

could try filing the RHS black thing down/off. the magnets seem to do a good job of ensuring the ameo only connects to keyboard when properly aligned (left to right) anyway.
the countour on keyboard also ensures ameo is straight relative to the keyboard.

The black points seem to keep the ameo upright when using the keyboard, im probably wrong tho.
Try turning the keyboard around in the case, i know its a pain when you want to use the keyboard and have to turn it around to use it, but i find that it works.
Eg have the buttons facing the bottom of the case so the smooth surface is facing the screen. Thats the only other way round it i can see. Im just keeping my eye out for a skin, as ive asked about in another post.
If other people out there are trying to work around it spending money on a different case may be the only way, but your right, big design floor. I noticed it, the same evening i purchased it and managed to flip my keyboard over or put it on the outside of the case. Adds to the bulk tho putting it on the outside, but to me, its the safest option.

I took the Dremmel to that horrid little black plastic lump.
I took it down about 60%, there is still an alignment piece there, but much lower.
I can report that there was no difference in using the keyboard, with or without the leather case. It clips into place just the same as before, and stands up fine as before.
I dont think there is now any danger of more damage from it on my device.
Of course, if you take a Dremmel to YOUR kb, its not my fault what the result is!

Permanently Fix SGS2 Echo and Digital Noise Reduction/Cancellation Problems

Hi All
I spent the last 2 days trying to find a simple solution to this problem. Even though my phone is still under manufacturers warranty and Service Providers warranty I decided to just do this as working carefully there will be no indication that the phone has been opened or the "fix" has been applied
I for one couldn't take my phone to a service centre as they would have booked in my phone and gave me some Nokia 3100 knock-off budget phone for one and the repair would have taken 21 days and having business requirements that my phone needs to meet I decided to just do it myself.
So I decided to open it up myself and fix it and here is the guide on how to permanently fix the echo that people get when phoning you.
Problem:
When you receive or make a call people on the other end of the line hear a echo of themselves and this might be intermittent but seem to be worse when having any type of cover on the phone.
Reason:
The reason this occurs is because the speaker depicted in the 3rd photo labelled as "B" has a rubber seal at the bottom of it that has gone loose from the casing by either a drop or some vibration that is making the speaker's sound go into the phone and picked up by the NC (Noise cancellation) microphone shown in the same photo as "A" rather than be isolated and out the speaker hole on the front of the phone.
Fix:
This fix is fairly simple and permanent. You only need a 5mm x 12mm piece of cardboard or think paper that is around 0.5mm thick that can be used as a buffer.
Procedure:
Step 1:
Picture 1 Shows the phone screws that should be removed 1st depicted by round red circles. Keep the screws in the same order as you remove them as only 4 of the 7 screws have locktite on them and be sure when you replace them you put them back in the same position.
Step 2:
Picture 1 As depicted from 1 to 6 is the easiest way to follow to unclip your back and front cover from one another to not break any of the clips. The back cover is very rugged so don't be afraid to unclip it as it is unlikely to break.
See Below Picture no1
Step 3:
Picture 2 is how it should look like when the back cover has been removed. We will only be focused on the area in the red block called ZZ
See Below Picture no2
Step 4:
Picture 3 shows the 2 components that's interfering with one another. "A" is the NC microphone sensor. Be sure to check that the sensor is properly inserted into the rubber sleeve covering it. "B" is the speaker and is glued with some ridiculously little amount of glue into the housing of "B" and can be lifted with a tweezers or some small object to be able to lift it out of the housing in "B"
See Below Picture no3
Step 5:
Picture 4 Loosen the speaker by just moving it in this aspect north and south a bit until it can be lifted up. Please note the arrow as it flips the way the arrow is pointing to expose the casing it is housed in. Clean out the housing of any dirt and wipe the speaker off as well of any dirt or substance that might elevate the speaker a little bit in its housing.
Step 6:
Picture 4 Flip the speaker back into its housing and firmly press it down so that it seats itself well in the housing. The rubber that the speaker is surrounded with should press firmly in the housing to seal it of any noise coming into the phone.
See Below Picture no4
Step 7:
This is where you use the piece of cardboard or thick paper of 5mm x 12mm by 0.5mm thick and place it over the speaker. I recommend cutting up a business card as they are the correct thickness. When looking at Picture 4 the cardboard should be covering the whole red block as depicted by "C" and should look like Picture 5 when placed
See Below Picture no5
Step 8:
Close up the phone and screw everything back together. The piece of cardboard or thick paper will ensure that the casing press the speaker tightly in place and keep it there without letting it leak into the phone to cause the echo effect for people calling you.
Step 9:
Enjoy calls without any echo effect.
This is all very simple to do and my echo has gone away completely. The replacement part they are referencing to in other topics is not really the problem and has nothing to do with it. In the process of replacing that part the speaker gets loosened and removed out of the housing and upon putting the phone back together they securely glue the speaker back in place and thats why they get the same results.
If this guide helped please post and say so. The problem has no relation to software or anything other than the speaker leaking sound into the phone being picked up by the NC.
Hope this helps. My phone is working 100% without any issues.

nice find!!! Ill wait for some more feedback untill i test this myself
So its samsung's fault that we have problems!

I tested 3 different brand new phones and all had the issue. Does this mean that Samsung fails to correctly assemble all of it's phones?!

manmad said:
nice find!!! Ill wait for some more feedback untill i test this myself
So its samsung's fault that we have problems!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ye to some extent. They should have used more glue to be honest but then it would have made it impossible to replace the part if it should break.
I fixed mine this morning this way that's why I made this post because I couldn't find anything to really help me to get this resolved and this is definitely the fix for it.

EQUANT said:
I tested 3 different brand new phones and all had the issue. Does this mean that Samsung fails to correctly assemble all of it's phones?!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Think about it this way. Anything comes loose with vibration. Maybe the delivery company man handled the boxes a bit on delivery or the vibration on the phone itself while being shipped could have loosened it as well.
Remember the Speaker needs to be completely sealed off from the internals of the phone and that's why you need the buffer so that the casing can keep it firmly pressed in place and sealed off from the internals.
Been on the phone a lot today and every person I ask tells me there is absolutely no echo.
And that coming from a 100% guaranteed echo for the last month

so, anyone else tested this?

manmad said:
so, anyone else tested this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would seem that ppl will probably do it and then not come back to post it worked because my "Thank You" count went up yet no replies
If your phone does this why not just do it? You have nothing to lose

Fixeeeed!!
OMG! It really worked thank you

I have tried this and it still seems hit and miss.
The case i use is a CaseMate Tough, it still echoes with this case fitted. If I use my other case a CaseMate Slim, it still echoes to a degree but not as bad.
Definatley no echo with no case though.
On a side note and not a whinge, probably worth mentioning in your guide which way the buttons go around when they fall out when you take the back off

hi toxic dust Thanks for your guide,i didn't apply the fix yet...i'm italian so it's alittle bit difficult for me to follow and understand every step.
Is it ok to use insulating tape (like black tape)??
And did i understand properly ...you have to cover with the tape the whole "C" area highlighted in red?
Thank you very much

Thanks, will try it.

You sir, are a genius!
I don't have the echo problem (even with my Otterbox) but I will definitely keep this thread in mind if something comes up.
Thanks.

gasss12 said:
hi toxic dust Thanks for your guide,i didn't apply the fix yet...i'm italian so it's alittle bit difficult for me to follow and understand every step.
Is it ok to use insulating tape (like black tape)??
And did i understand properly ...you have to cover with the tape the whole "C" area highlighted in red?
Thank you very much
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I prefer not to use anything with glue on it. You could probably use insulating tape (black tape) but you have to remember there are heat distribution on the inside of your phone and it might stick now but with heat applied any glue a specially on tape like that becomes soft and might short your phone as glue becomes conductive when in a liquid form.
Thick paper wont conduct at all and heat has no effect on it hence the preferance to a solid piece of thick paper or cardboard.
I used a Business card and cut that to the size I needed. I'm sure you could find a Business card of some sorts lying around
Yes. You have cover the complete section marked as "C". You will see that the marked section is the complete speaker. Just make sure that the paper is properly sized and is on it directly because you need it to securely press the speaker in place.
Definatley no echo with no case though.
On a side note and not a whinge, probably worth mentioning in your guide which way the buttons go around when they fall out when you take the back off
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine was echoing without a case so for me its a 100% fix
The buttons can actually go in any way round. It will just make your button a bit more stiff to press. If you want the button smooth it has little hinges. Those hinges have a little dent in them on the 1 side. Ensure that those dents show to the screen side.

Mine alsof does it without a case. I think I'm going to try it in a few days!
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium

Thx toxicdust. Your solution worked perfectly!!!
I had this echo problem since I started using the Samsung Galaxy S2 with a Melkco case and was frustrated about it. Then I decided to buy a larger accupack (Samsung 2000 mAh type EB-K1A2E). This came with a separate backcover so I needed another case. The new flipcase (Samsung EF-C1A2B) is compatible with this larger accu. I hoped with this new (Samsung!) case the echo would have disappeared, but no, it was not! After reading about this echo problem in a different forums I stumbled on your solution. This was the first one that was likely to be a good solution and not some quirky workaround. So I started following your instructions and can now say the echo is completely gone! Wow man, thank you for this. Some extra details: It was easy to take the 7 screws out, but a little uncomfortable to open the back after that. Most easy is to simply use your fingernail in between the front and back of the housing on the side and go around. In my case the speaker seemed not as loose as in your case, so I didn't bother to try further to take it out. Only thing I did was checking the fixing of the two mics (seemed okay), pushed the speaker unit carefully in its housing (but did not seem to move though) and put a small piece of a business card on the speaker as you indicated. See the white piece in the picture below. I think I made it al little bit bigger then your 12 x 5 mm. The acoustical feedback loop has broken this way, so it is a perfect solution which only takes 10 minutes to do.

I am convinced. I will try it tomorrow
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium

dutchiek said:
Thx toxicdust. Your solution worked perfectly!!!
I had this echo problem since I started using the Samsung Galaxy S2 with a Melkco case and was frustrated about it. Then I decided to buy a larger accupack (Samsung 2000 mAh type EB-K1A2E). This came with a separate backcover so I needed another case. The new flipcase (Samsung EF-C1A2B) is compatible with this larger accu. I hoped with this new (Samsung!) case the echo would have disappeared, but no, it was not! After reading about this echo problem in a different forums I stumbled on your solution. This was the first one that was likely to be a good solution and not some quirky workaround. So I started following your instructions and can now say the echo is completely gone! Wow man, thank you for this. Some extra details: It was easy to take the 7 screws out, but a little uncomfortable to open the back after that. Most easy is to simply use your fingernail in between the front and back of the housing on the side and go around. In my case the speaker seemed not as loose as in your case, so I didn't bother to try further to take it out. Only thing I did was checking the fixing of the two mics (seemed okay), pushed the speaker unit carefully in its housing (but did not seem to move though) and put a small piece of a business card on the speaker as you indicated. See the white piece in the picture below. I think I made it al little bit bigger then your 12 x 5 mm. The acoustical feedback loop has broken this way, so it is a perfect solution which only takes 10 minutes to do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ye I had the same thing. No matter where I googled there was absolutely no solution and decided to trouble shoot myself as I wont be waiting 21 days to get my phone back with "No fault Found" response from them in any ways. I also have the extended battery and that made me also use they Silicone case that makes it even worse
After seeing how rugged the SGS2 is in the drop test on SmartphoneEnvy.com I decided to not use a case anymore as a 5 foot drop directly on the screen barely scratched the casing and the screen got no damage at all.
I am glad the solution actually works for more people and thank you for the picture. If you don't mind I will put it in my guide at the top for better illustration

It worked! Thanks alot. Let's hope it stays fixed
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium

Please read my post I have made the step by step instruction
Here the link below:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=21795243&postcount=62

Cool. Even though you used rubber its cool. At least it fix the problem
Regardless of what is used it needs to be about 0.5mm think. Also remember that you might have had something underneath the speaker keeping it lifted regardless of the amount of pressure you put on it that's why its recommended to clean the speaker and the housing

[GUIDE] How To Fix Squeaky Battery Cover!

Hi guys, I've owned an Xperia Play since July 2011, since then I've had some 'Battery Cover' issues. First, let's start off by talking about the battery cover itself, well actually there's not much to say. If you have an Xperia Play you already know the battery cover is very cheap, it's a large rectangular piece of plastic that covers the entire back on the phone, it's a pain to get it off and on at times. So not only it is cheaply made, it also has the tendency to start 'squeaking' or 'creaking' after a while. This simple issue can be fixed my ordering a new back piece to replace the old one, but note, if you swap batteries, swap SIM cards, swap SD cards, or anything that involves taking the battery cover off, it WILL, at some point in time, get worn out and slightly bent out of place. There's no escaping this problem due to it's design. In the past I've ordered about 3 Black battery cover replacements, and each one of them, after sometime, became creaky. Now maybe I'm just being picky but I REALLY hate picking up my phone and hearing that *squeaky* sound. It annoys the piss out of me. So I've came up with a way to prevent / fix this. What I'm about to guide you through is EXTREMELY simple and shouldn't cost you more than $2... ENJOY
SUPPLIES: Electrical Tape & Scissors
(1) Hold your phone to where the back is facing you, gently but firmly press all around until you've found your squeaky area. ( take a mental note of where this spot is )
(2) Remove the battery cover.
(3) Cut off a piece or two of electrical tape according to the size of the squeaky area, place the electrical tape on the inside of the battery cover where you took a mental note of.
(4) Put the battery cover back on! You're all done! No more squeaking!
It worked for me, it should definitely work for you! Try it out and post your results! Don't forget to *Thank* me!
(I've included a picture of what the results look like, lol I'm sure we all know what a piece of tape looks like on a piece of plastic but yeah here's one in case you don't!)

Thanks, no more squeaking!
I dont care about the squeaking that much, but still, u made my play better!

CyberScopes said:
Thanks, no more squeaking!
I dont care about the squeaking that much, but still, u made my play better!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad I could help! Sure beats spending $10-15 for a new back.

Yep. I used strong masking tape.
Sent From My Sony Xperia Play. Press the Thanks button for Fun.

I've replaced the battery lid a few times but I've never had the creaking problem. I wonder if it has something to do with the CDMA version not having the space for the SIM card.
Anyway, I do agree that they are poorly made. My first one developed cracks around the pry point and around the top even before I got a second battery. Obviously, battery swapping means I open it more often than most users, but I was EXTREMELY careful. Eventually I lost the corner next to the power button. On my replacement I made sure to never use the pry point without relieving pressure by pulling the corners too (usually unclipping them first). I also used a stick-on carbon-fiber protector from the day I installed it till the day I replaced it. It eventually formed a crack by the pry point too. Argh!

Iffy Proximity Sensor

Hi All
Picked up a Nexus 4 a few days ago and only just noticed (as result of a call) that the proximity sensor is reporting that its "blocked" at all times, so the phone things its against my head. I can workaround this by using the "Power button to hang Up" option but at present cannot access any in call features.
When I look under good light the sensor, there are 2 areas so not sure which is the sensor, I can see what looks like a bubble under both. if you imagine what an air pocket looks like under a screen protector thats what it looks like but its behind the glass, perfectly centred. I guess its possible that something has broken here as a result of the drop, the top left corner was the point of impact, does that seem likely?
I got the phone cheap as it had a broke screen so have a new one coming. Its the full screen, glass and digitizer. Does anyone know of the sensor is part of the screen or does it sit behind and then I could be really screwed!
Ta

bert682 said:
Hi All
Picked up a Nexus 4 a few days ago and only just noticed (as result of a call) that the proximity sensor is reporting that its "blocked" at all times, so the phone things its against my head. I can workaround this by using the "Power button to hang Up" option but at present cannot access any in call features.
When I look under good light the sensor, there are 2 areas so not sure which is the sensor, I can see what looks like a bubble under both. if you imagine what an air pocket looks like under a screen protector thats what it looks like but its behind the glass, perfectly centred. I guess its possible that something has broken here as a result of the drop, the top left corner was the point of impact, does that seem likely?
I got the phone cheap as it had a broke screen so have a new one coming. Its the full screen, glass and digitizer. Does anyone know of the sensor is part of the screen or does it sit behind and then I could be really screwed!
Ta
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so I did a little more reading and it seems that a gorilla has changed the screen on this phone in the past and he / she has used compound to stick the screen down and some of it has gone around the sensor and the resulting press down on the screen has created a few air pockets.
Looking less forward to changing the screen now as no doubt with my luck the "technician" will have used some crazy heat resistant glue!
Also....missing the speaker grille....funny how you only notice things after you have bought them!

Search for proximity sensor fix after screen replacement here on xda. I've found out that if you switch sides of the little rubber /plastic cover that covers the proximity sensor, your problem will be solved. And the light sensor will work with no problems as well.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

Sp_Ark said:
Search for proximity sensor fix after screen replacement here on xda. I've found out that if you switch sides of the little rubber /plastic cover that covers the proximity sensor, your problem will be solved. And the light sensor will work with no problems as well.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really?
From reading the thing to do is either make the height of the bushing a little larger, height wise. Or, to increase the diameter of the holes.
I like your fix the best though....no messing about, just rotate.
Will give it a go, thanks!

It will work for sure, I posted this fix on a YouTube screen replacement guide of octopus glues I think and its confirmed to work from a lot of people. Then if you use a custom rom go to brightness settings while having auto brightness enabled and try changing light sources from dark to very bright places to see the instant lux values you get. If you are not satisfied with the result try custom auto brightness values.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

bert682 said:
Really?
From reading the thing to do is either make the height of the bushing a little larger, height wise. Or, to increase the diameter of the holes.
I like your fix the best though....no messing about, just rotate.
Will give it a go, thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, I discovered this "fix" in a random youtube comment (was that you @Sp_Ark?) just a few days ago, and it worked for me. Then I found a thread here that confirmed that this could be a solution (which could have saved me a week of frustration).
If there's actually something on the proximity sensor, then you might be screwed. Well, not really, or $10 from China. The module is a snap-in piece with connector ribbon that also has the headphone jack. The prox sensor is the smaller one on the right side (when looking at the screen).
Disassembly of the Nexus 4 is pretty simple compared to many other smartphones. You'll need a T5 TORX wrench/bit for the screws at the bottom, and a very small Phillips driver for all the screws in the inside. You'll also need a tool to split the 2 halves apart (your screen replacement might have come with tools). You can find a couple videos on youtube, as well as a detailed teardown (pics) at ifixit.com. If you have a hairdryer (or an actual heat gun) you can make the process easier by softening the glue with heat, but it's not absolutely necessary. Just go slowly and be careful when prying the halves apart so you don't flex it too much and break the glass back.
Which screen assembly did you get? You can get it where it's just the LCD and the digitizer, and you can also get it that has the bezel and speaker with it. When I replaced the screen on my N4, I got the whole deal with the bezel and speaker, since it meant less work and fewer things to screw up.

Planterz said:
Yep, I discovered this "fix" in a random youtube comment (was that you @Sp_Ark?) just a few days ago, and it worked for me. Then I found a thread here that confirmed that this could be a solution (which could have saved me a week of frustration).
If there's actually something on the proximity sensor, then you might be screwed. Well, not really, or $10 from China. The module is a snap-in piece with connector ribbon that also has the headphone jack. The prox sensor is the smaller one on the right side (when looking at the screen).
Disassembly of the Nexus 4 is pretty simple compared to many other smartphones. You'll need a T5 TORX wrench/bit for the screws at the bottom, and a very small Phillips driver for all the screws in the inside. You'll also need a tool to split the 2 halves apart (your screen replacement might have come with tools). You can find a couple videos on youtube, as well as a detailed teardown (pics) at ifixit.com. If you have a hairdryer (or an actual heat gun) you can make the process easier by softening the glue with heat, but it's not absolutely necessary. Just go slowly and be careful when prying the halves apart so you don't flex it too much and break the glass back.
Which screen assembly did you get? You can get it where it's just the LCD and the digitizer, and you can also get it that has the bezel and speaker with it. When I replaced the screen on my N4, I got the whole deal with the bezel and speaker, since it meant less work and fewer things to screw up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got a "kit" off eBay, [URL="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181144377215?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181144377215?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT so it appears to be the complete screen. Ive watched a few videos but from the pictures it looks like the screen comes with the metal backing so I suspect I dont need to remove the old screen from the casing, thoughts?
Im expecting this to be the screen, bezel, and metal backing so I need to do is connect in my motherboard and all the other components.
Am I off in thinking this?

That's the full part. The one you've posted is the type I usually go for, they're good quality so far.

bert682 said:
I got a "kit" off eBay, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181144377215?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT so it appears to be the complete screen. Ive watched a few videos but from the pictures it looks like the screen comes with the metal backing so I suspect I dont need to remove the old screen from the casing, thoughts?
Im expecting this to be the screen, bezel, and metal backing so I need to do is connect in my motherboard and all the other components.
Am I off in thinking this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You made a wise choice, young padawan.
Yeah, that looks to be the entire front assembly, including the screen+digitizer, already installed in the bezel. Also includes the earpiece plus the speaker grill that you're missing. You'll have to swap over the guts, and that's about it. It's easiest to swap the power and volume rocker buttons first since it's a bit harder to get them where they go if you've got the logic board in the way. Just remember that the contact points need to make a ^ rather than a v when you're assembling it with the screen facing down. Tweezers are good to have, especially if they're very long and even better if they're curved. I also recommend doing this over a clean towel to avoid scratching the screen (there'll probably be a film over it too), and the fluffier the towel the better, to catch the tiny screws from flying and disappearing.
Honestly, getting the 2 halves apart is probably the hardest part. They make specialized tools for this, and often the sellers will include them, but it doesn't look like your purchase includes them (mine didn't either). Something plastic is the best choice, since you're less likely to cause cosmetic damage to the plastic (especially the bezel) if you slip (and you will slip). As I said before, GO SLOWLY. Work it apart a little bit at a time, alternate side to side, starting from the bottom. Eventually you'll be able to pull the 2 halves apart.
The battery will be stuck in pretty good and will need to be pried out. If I were you (and a week or so ago, I was you), I'd pop a new battery in while you're at it. At this point in the phone's life, it's probably had at least a few hundred cycles on the battery and has lost 10-20% of its original capacity. The other components shouldn't be nearly as hard to get out. Just pry in various points until the piece pops out. Do not force anything. Just work it out slowly. After you pop off the piece that covers the USB port, there's the board that has the port, and that can be slightly tricky to get out. Best way I found is to slip something small and flat (screwdriver?) into the port and push up and out, and the board should come out easily.
Thankfully, there's only 3 different screws used, and they're all easily differentiated from each other. There's the 2 T5 TORX that hold the halves together, the 2 very short screws with wide heads that hold the battery in place, and the rest that hold everything else are all identical to each other.
It looks like on your assembly, it comes with its own adhesives. Everywhere there's a blue film, pull it off and there'll be adhesive underneath. I'd recommend leaving the film on over the part where the sensor/headphone jack module goes until you're sure you can stick it in place with the proximity sensor not acting wonky. Download an app (I used Phone Tester) that can read the prox sensor. FYI, as long as everything is in place, and you've attached the battery, you can boot the phone without replacing the back cover, and test the sensor (just depress the center bit of the power button board). You don't need to screw everything in, but you should at least screw and tighten down the few that surround the sensor area. Once you've got it reading properly (best of luck), it's time to put all back together.
You should familiarize yourself with the teardown/reassembly guides out there. Go to ifixit.com and have everything ready to look at. This is the video that I used to guide me, and I watched it through a few times before I attempted it myself. You should be just fine with your phone after familiarizing yourself, but if you have any specific problems or questions, feel free to ask, and I'm all too happy to help.

Planterz said:
You made a wise choice, young padawan.
Yeah, that looks to be the entire front assembly, including the screen+digitizer, already installed in the bezel. Also includes the earpiece plus the speaker grill that you're missing. You'll have to swap over the guts, and that's about it. It's easiest to swap the power and volume rocker buttons first since it's a bit harder to get them where they go if you've got the logic board in the way. Just remember that the contact points need to make a ^ rather than a v when you're assembling it with the screen facing down. Tweezers are good to have, especially if they're very long and even better if they're curved. I also recommend doing this over a clean towel to avoid scratching the screen (there'll probably be a film over it too), and the fluffier the towel the better, to catch the tiny screws from flying and disappearing.
Honestly, getting the 2 halves apart is probably the hardest part. They make specialized tools for this, and often the sellers will include them, but it doesn't look like your purchase includes them (mine didn't either). Something plastic is the best choice, since you're less likely to cause cosmetic damage to the plastic (especially the bezel) if you slip (and you will slip). As I said before, GO SLOWLY. Work it apart a little bit at a time, alternate side to side, starting from the bottom. Eventually you'll be able to pull the 2 halves apart.
The battery will be stuck in pretty good and will need to be pried out. If I were you (and a week or so ago, I was you, I'd pop a new battery in while you're at it. At this point in the phone's life, it's probably had at least a few hundred cycles on the battery and has lost 10-20% of its original capacity. The other comments shouldn't be nearly as hard to get out. Just pry in various points until the piece pops out. Do not force anything. Just work it out slowly. After you pop off the piece that covers the USB port, there's the board that has the port, and that can be slightly tricky to get out. Best way I found is to slip something small and flat (screwdriver?) into the port and push up and out, and the board should come out easily.
Thankfully, there's only 3 different screws used, and they're all easily differentiated from each other. There's the 2 T5 TORX that hold the halves together, the 2 very short screws with wide heads that hold the battery in place, and the rest that hold everything else are all identical to each other.
It looks like on your assembly, it comes with its own adhesives. Everywhere there's a blue film, pull it off and there'll be adhesive underneath. I'd recommend leaving the film on over the part where the sensor/headphone jack module goes until you're sure you can stick it in place with the proximity sensor not acting wonky. Download an app (I used Phone Tester) that can read the prox sensor. FYI, as long as everything is in place, and you've attached the battery, you can boot the phone without replacing the back cover, and test the sensor (just depress the center bit of the power button board). You don't need to screw everything in, but you should at least screw and tighten down the few that surround the sensor area. Once you've got it reading properly (best of luck), it's time to put all back together.
You should familiarize yourself with the teardown/reassembly guides out there. Go to ifixit.com and have everything ready to look at. This is the video[/i] that I used to guide me, and I watched it through a few times before I attempted it myself. You should be just fine with your phone after familiarizing yourself, but if you have any specific problems or questions, feel free to ask, and I'm all too happy to help.
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Click to collapse
Awesome, I saw some cheaper screens but that one notes that its LG compliant etc. I bought a set of tools separately so will have all the stuff needed. Didnt think about the battery, will order one as it does make sense!
Thanks for the info, will update as I go.

If you want to have a working battery like it used to be before removing it, you have to be very patient and extra careful while trying to remove it. Use some heat for the glue and try with something very thin like a nylon guitar pick. In anyway don't bent the battery and don't start from top. It will be easier to first remove the mother board. Iv already destroyed 4 5 batteries while trying to remove them. Sorry for my English, I hope you understand.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

Sp_Ark said:
If you want to have a working battery like it used to be before removing it, you have to be very patient and extra careful while trying to remove it. Use some heat for the glue and try with something very thin like a nylon guitar pick. In anyway don't bent the battery and don't start from top. It will be easier to first remove the mother board. Iv already destroyed 4 5 batteries while trying to remove them. Sorry for my English, I hope you understand.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea was extra careful, used a little heat. Someone has definately replaced the screen on the phone before but seems to have been careful enough as no screws missing etc, except the lost the little speaker grille
New screen in and working well. The proximity sensor seems to be working but it reports all or nothing rather than varied. Is this correct?

bert682 said:
Yea was extra careful, used a little heat. Someone has definately replaced the screen on the phone before but seems to have been careful enough as no screws missing etc, except the lost the little speaker grille
New screen in and working well. The proximity sensor seems to be working but it reports all or nothing rather than varied. Is this correct?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah this is normal.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

bert682 said:
New screen in and working well.
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Click to collapse
Awesome! See, it wasn't too bad, was it? Ifixit gives the N4 a 7/10 for repairability, and that's pretty high for them. After replacing my N4 screen, friend/coworker asked if I could do the same for his HTC One M7 with a completely shattered, yet functional digitizer. I said "HEEEEEEEEEEELL NO!"

Planterz said:
Awesome! See, it wasn't too bad, was it? Ifixit gives the N4 a 7/10 for repairability, and that's pretty high for them. After replacing my N4 screen, friend/coworker asked if I could do the same for his HTC One M7 with a completely shattered, yet functional digitizer. I said "HEEEEEEEEEEELL NO!"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, not with the correct tools. I will admit had I not bought the plastic tools, tweezers etc I may have struggled.
The battery was my main concern, its really stuck down, even though this had been replaced before and likely a less tacky glue used it was still tough. Had to use some heat to soften it and the "battery cover" has seen better days. Next thing to replace is that, just for piece of mind.
All in all, pretty nice experience, the phone seems more modular that other phones I have taken apart which is nice.

Home button sticking/clicking *FIX*

Normally I don't experience issues with my phones that I've seen online. Especially the whole "gapgate" Note 4 problem! But today I noticed my home button making a loud click noise when pressed. It was also a bit hard to push down. So I took a regular paper towel and put some alcohol on it. Just enough to make it damp. I then wiped the home button and around it. Then I used a can of air and blew over and around it. No more click and it's smooth as ever! Just thought I post this in case anyone else came across this issue. *Try at your own risk*

I did the same on the 2nd day of release having my note 4.. Had some juice on my hand from my son and wiped over the fingerprint and it got some between the button.. Alcohol seems to be the best for this as it dissipates leaving no liquid behind..
Sent using my T-Mobile Note 4

My Note 4 recently started doing this. Thanks for the info. I will try it tonight.

Strange, my home button never did this, though I've noticed some home buttons appearing recessed and some elevated above the display of the phone.

My home button won't sink in though it still register touches and fingerprint scanner works fine.
Unfortunately wiping the home button didn't correct it. I'm having it replaced under warranty.

Mine did the same for the first 2 months. Then it went away
ROLL THAT SHT, LIGHT THAT SHT. SMOKKKKE THAT SHT

Home button not suppose to click?
Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

Limeybastard said:
Home button not suppose to click?
Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
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Click to collapse
It's not supposed to make a very audible click. Mine started doing it months after it purchased and it stopped a week shortly after. Very weird.

Mines makes a noise lol why wouldn't it
Sent from my: SM-N910T / SQC100-4 with Tapatalk : PIN 2BFBBCE3 : T-Mobile 4G LTE
Facebook.com/UnFazedRebel

Uh...
shook187 said:
My home button won't sink in though it still register touches and fingerprint scanner works fine.
Unfortunately wiping the home button didn't correct it. I'm having it replaced under warranty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So did they replace it?

Allow me~
So if you guys have seen me around, I am one of the guys who was on the forum about Note 4 bezels and replacing them. I replaced my Note 4 (black) with a gold bezel and power/volume buttons. Which definitely was easy as heck to do. Anyways, the point I'm going to mention is this:
The power button is supposed to be clicky, but not like those found on iPhone or Samsung S6/S6E. As they said prior, you can place alcohol into that area and it will help that problem with a sticky button. What I presume is some of the adhesive that keeps the screen down on the main board (NOT REFERRING TO THE LCD ADHESIVE TO THE GLASS) gets in the way and makes it sticky. The adhesive is some weird mix between some silicone or whatever. It feels almost like tar, in terms when heated its stretchy but pretty stiff when back to normal temps.
As for the dropping of the home button, that is caused by the mUSB port not being pushed up enough by the bezel. Basically, the mUSB port is not applied enough upward pressure by the bezel to keep it sitting flush. What is interesting is that this can also constitute to something where the home button is mushy and doesn't click. Not in the sense of "sticky" but as the point of just no tactile feedback, such as a click feeling or sound.
As for the "gapgate" issue, I just placed some silicone in between the cracks, between the glass and the aluminum bezel, and pushed it in. Then grabbing a cloth and removing the excess while smoothing the stuff in the cracks by going in a single direction. Let the stuff dry and its golden. Remember to tape off the earpiece, mic holes, and other stuff.
If anyone needs some pics on what I said above, let me know and I'll try getting those in.

philliman said:
Normally I don't experience issues with my phones that I've seen online. Especially the whole "gapgate" Note 4 problem! But today I noticed my home button making a loud click noise when pressed. It was also a bit hard to push down. So I took a regular paper towel and put some alcohol on it. Just enough to make it damp. I then wiped the home button and around it. Then I used a can of air and blew over and around it. No more click and it's smooth as ever! Just thought I post this in case anyone else came across this issue. *Try at your own risk*
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
anybody trying this alcohol treatment to the home button, I strongly suggest you turn off the phone and take off the battery while doing so. before turning it back on, also make sure it's totally dried off. you can use a hair drier to make sure....

does this happen after a while?

Thanks for this! Mine has always been that way. Painfully loud click. Like I broke something. Used an alcohol wipe (phone off) and I get a nice soft press now. Click is like my wife's Note 3 now. Much, much better.

I found the best solution... an app called " Swype Home". With a little swap from the home button to the screen acts like thehome button and goes
even more faster than clicking.. and it fixes the obsolescence of the button... works like a charm.

Averant said:
So if you guys have seen me around, I am one of the guys who was on the forum about Note 4 bezels and replacing them. I replaced my Note 4 (black) with a gold bezel and power/volume buttons. Which definitely was easy as heck to do. Anyways, the point I'm going to mention is this:
The power button is supposed to be clicky, but not like those found on iPhone or Samsung S6/S6E. As they said prior, you can place alcohol into that area and it will help that problem with a sticky button. What I presume is some of the adhesive that keeps the screen down on the main board (NOT REFERRING TO THE LCD ADHESIVE TO THE GLASS) gets in the way and makes it sticky. The adhesive is some weird mix between some silicone or whatever. It feels almost like tar, in terms when heated its stretchy but pretty stiff when back to normal temps.
As for the dropping of the home button, that is caused by the mUSB port not being pushed up enough by the bezel. Basically, the mUSB port is not applied enough upward pressure by the bezel to keep it sitting flush. What is interesting is that this can also constitute to something where the home button is mushy and doesn't click. Not in the sense of "sticky" but as the point of just no tactile feedback, such as a click feeling or sound.
As for the "gapgate" issue, I just placed some silicone in between the cracks, between the glass and the aluminum bezel, and pushed it in. Then grabbing a cloth and removing the excess while smoothing the stuff in the cracks by going in a single direction. Let the stuff dry and its golden. Remember to tape off the earpiece, mic holes, and other stuff.
If anyone needs some pics on what I said above, let me know and I'll try getting those in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm trying to understand how the microusb port is blocking the button, is there any way you can explain it, and is it an easy fix? I just got a used note 4 and the home button doesn't click in.