Hi -
Does anyone know the specifications of the 4 connectors under the back cover?
I think the ones to the left of the flash are for wireless charging.
What polarity are these?
Can you fry the phone when connecting with wrong polarity or is it protected?
What are the connectors to the right of the flash for?
Thanks!
Two of the four connectors
The Telstra Samsung Galaxy S4 4G has two external antenna ports L1 and R1.
When connecting your Galaxy S4 to an external antenna it's important to only use the R1 port.
The L1 Port is for LTE MIMO operation only.
springarchie said:
The Telstra Samsung Galaxy S4 4G has two external antenna ports L1 and R1.
When connecting your Galaxy S4 to an external antenna it's important to only use the R1 port.
The L1 Port is for LTE MIMO operation only.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks but the ports I am referring to seem to be for wireless charging.
More info here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=42213467
Bringing this back up to add some info.
I had been researching fixes for the diminished signal when using the Zerolemon 7500mAh battery. Figured out that my laptop TV tuner card antenna uses the same connector as the L1 port on the GS4 and tried it out. I got about 8-10dbm signal increase across all bands. The test was done with the phone stationary inside a concrete walled large warehouse with moderate signal in south DFW.
I noticed that GSM had the best signal, then WCDMA then LTE the lowest. This may be due to connecting to difft towers, or other factors. But I think the concrete walls vs frequencies have an effect on things.
GSM
Before: -83
After: -69
WCDMA
Before: -85
After: -73
LTE
Before: -101
After: -89
Unfortunately I have no idea what type of connector it is, nor where the antenna came from.
Since it has a detachable retractable mast I tested it with and without. It actually had the same signal with it off, so I
would think you'd only need the wire itself to gain signal. My next step will be aquiring another connector, then create a modified version
using ribbon cables that can stick to the inside of the battery door.
The other terminals are for an NFC antenna. Such as in the official QI back, or the Note 2 Antenna fits.
any updates on this?
Starting to look at this area
I plugged a copper wire into the R1 port in the back of the phone and I guess I really messed something up internally b/c now when I don't have a piece of metal stuck in the port I get little to no signal anywhere. Also, since this happened I can no long make calls or texts on LTE b/c my phone's radio will not switch over to make the calls or texts. I can receive them though. Any fixes? I'm assuming a messed up a copper connection under the port by jamming crap in there. I'm going to remove the back of the phone and see if I can see any damage to the circuit board. I will report back with my findings.
EDIT: THIS WAS DONE ON THE SPRINT TRIBAND MODEL. (L720T)
silentdeath631 said:
I plugged a copper wire into the R1 port in the back of the phone and I guess I really messed something up internally b/c now when I don't have a piece of metal stuck in the port I get little to no signal anywhere. Also, since this happened I can no long make calls or texts on LTE b/c my phone's radio will not switch over to make the calls or texts. I can receive them though. Any fixes? I'm assuming a messed up a copper connection under the port by jamming crap in there. I'm going to remove the back of the phone and see if I can see any damage to the circuit board. I will report back with my findings.
EDIT: THIS WAS DONE ON THE SPRINT TRIBAND MODEL. (L720T)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Worrying as I've just ordered a mmcx to sma adapter to try something similar. As mmcx to rp-sma seem harder to gt hold of I would be bridgeing with a small piece of wire, but not directly into the samsungs xt aerial port.
The prior posts regarding this on a number of sites are contradictory
Some say that nothing disables any and that the electronics always seeks the highest signal from either internal or external
I saw at least one pot that said you have to manually select (somehow) the internal aerial after using the external
Some say teh external doesn't work and is only for testing purposes, which has apparently been refuted by samsung tech support.
UPDATE
read here
http://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-s2/general/external-antenna-socket-warning-t1273292/page8
+ google 'Samsung galaxy s4 how to change antennas' for a youtube vid using battery monitor utility
I think he means these connectors (see attachment)
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
the R1 and R2 antennae are to the right, and aligned vertical...
The others, are aligned horizontal, there's a larger to the right of the flash, and a smaller to the left....
wondering what these are for, is what brought me here....
exactly! i am wondering the same
Ghozer said:
I think he means these connectors (see attachment)
View attachment 3527464
the R1 and R2 antennae are to the right, and aligned vertical...
The others, are aligned horizontal, there's a larger to the right of the flash, and a smaller to the left....
wondering what these are for, is what brought me here....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wonder if there was ever an answer to this
The two smaller connectors on the left are contacts for a wireless charging pad.
audit13 said:
The two smaller connectors on the left are contacts for a wireless charging pad.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
and the other two on the right? any suggestions
I have no idea what the other 2 connectors are for. At first I thought it was for NFC but that doesn't make sense since there are no corresponding connectors inside the back/battery cover.
audit13 said:
I have no idea what the other 2 connectors are for. At first I thought it was for NFC but that doesn't make sense since there are no corresponding connectors inside the back/battery cover.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's a cutout in the back cover for an NFC antenna (it isn't there) that matches perfectly with those 2 pins, which makes me think that Samsung decided to include the NFC antenna in the battery instead after the phone's design stage was done.
I highlighted the area where the pins would have made contact with the back cover NFC antenna in this photo.
Related
I am slightly worried about the mini-USB connector on my QTEK 9100 as it seems to have a little bit of 'play' in it - i.e. it can be moved slightly and so seems loose.
I have read various threads about the connectors breaking and either being pushed into the device or simply falling out. Some people seem to have had some success getting them replaced or repaired under warranty, others haven't. Since I bought mine off eBay last year I think I am pretty much out of luck regarding warranty.
Anyway if I take the stylus or something similar and push the metal edge of the mini-USB connector it moves slightly within the over-sized hole in the plastic case (there is a very slight gap all around the metal outer part of the mini-USB connector and the hole in the plastic case). I am not sure whether it has always done this or it is becoming loose. Can someone else check whether their mini-USB connector moves slightly in the manner I describe or if theirs is solid? It is only a very slight movement but really that is all it has the ability to move since the gap between the metal and the plastic is very small.
The connection seems OK to my PC and I have upgraded the ROM a few times recently but this slight movement is getting me a bit concerned that it is going to break shortly and since this is the only way to charge it I will be left a bit stuck
If it is on it's way out what are my options and what are the likely costs? I don't think I have any warranty case and I am in the UK.
Thanks
Andy
loose mini-USB connector
My MDA also had a loose mini USB connector over time it continued to become loose until it finially brokw. I was forunate that T-Mobile did replace it under warranty.
I did find a company ont he internet that charges $60 to replace the MDA with a new mini USB Connector. It does require the device to be shipped to them.
Here is ther website address:
http://www.pocketpctechs.com/
Good Luck
I have applied a rather crude fix by inserting some small pieces of card (I cut up a business card) around the slight gap between the outer metal part of the mini-USB connector and the surrounding plastic. This seems to have stopped the connector moving, although I still think the damage may have been done
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
It's charging and syncing without any issues though so I will see how it goes.
Andy
Loose Stylus & Mini USB inspection.....
My Wizard has recently developed the loose stylus issue outlined here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=247497&highlight=loose+stylus
I have followed the instructions to 'strengthen' the small plastic retention tab using a bit of silicone which is currently drying.....
Whilst I had the back off I decided to take a look at the Mini USB connector and see if there was any damage. Well it looks like three of the four solder pads at either corner of the connector have become 'unstuck' from the circuit board (see attached image). I have some experience of soldering but I am a little worried that I may damage something else with the heat if I attempt to touch each of the pads to re-secure it. The five data pins at the rear all seem OK, it is just these ground/earth ones.
Has anyone else performed this repair successfully?
Andy (slightly worried )
Since the replies were so encouraging I went ahead and re-soldered the pads and it's still working......
The silicone didn't work so I removed it and inserted a small piece of plastic and re-siliconed it in place. It's better than it was originally now
I think I'll take the back off again in a few weeks and see how the mini USB connector is. Any other advice as to keeping the USB connector intact?
Andy
Hi,
I have a post about red/orange light in this forum, do you reckon that the broken usb connector could be whats causing my problem? Do you have a guide to dismantling the MINI?
Thanks
Service Manual on FTP
mrhaddock said:
Hi,
I have a post about red/orange light in this forum, do you reckon that the broken usb connector could be whats causing my problem? Do you have a guide to dismantling the MINI?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check the link I posted in the 4th post. There is a service manual on the FTP.
The trickiest bit it unlocking the hooks on the back panel - it feels like you are going to snap the thing
ftp://ftp.xda-developers.com/Wizard/Docs_Tutorials/
HTH
Andy
ADB100 said:
Whilst I had the back off I decided to take a look at the Mini USB connector and see if there was any damage. Well it looks like three of the four solder pads at either corner of the connector have become 'unstuck' from the circuit board (see attached image). I have some experience of soldering but I am a little worried that I may damage something else with the heat if I attempt to touch each of the pads to re-secure it. The five data pins at the rear all seem OK, it is just these ground/earth ones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have had a MP3 player which has the same problem with the output jack (for the ear phone). The solder became loose and I get irritating silences during the music play back. I solve the problem by applying superglue on top of it because the circuits there are just way too small for my (or any other human) soldering skill.
Anyway, for this case, it seems that the ground is large enough to withstand minor heat from the solder. And, chances are, since it ground, in most cases thick/wide enough most of the way (as to absorb any 'distrubances') before it reaches any IC which is what you need to be really careful of.
I have had the A7 for about 6 weeks and have loved it for the most part.
Especially with the latest 1.4 rom from the magnificent Dexter (thanks dude).
The only issue I have really hated is the weakass wifi signal. Standing 3 meters away from my linksys router I was only getting- 60dmb at best, which is pathetic.
During the first teardown I noticed there is an unused antenna which is taped underneath the mainboard. One of this reserved for future use kind of things. It is almost 5 cm longer than the pitiful white antenna. So of course I changed it to the blue.antenna.
Now I.am getting FULL strength wifi. The signal has improved by- 20dmb easily!
My router is on the 3rd floor and I now set a good.signal even in the basement.
Now I do love this unit!
You can see the white antenna in the Teardown post some other user did.
Just fyi.
I'm going to give this a try tomorrow
[Update]
Just Finished The Swap, Didn't See To Much of a Difference(Weak Cable Connection To My House)
Will Test The Connection At Work Tomorrow, But Did Take Some Pics. Info On dBm.
App I Will Be Using To Monitor My Network: Network Info II
What Was Used:
Torx: T-6
Angled Metal Pick
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Remove The Two Dock Screws:
Then Proceed To Slide Off Back Cover:
This Is The Orignal Set Up:
This Is After The Swap:
Enjoy
Keep me posted on this
Very Easy, Bump
If you use a signal meter like wifi signal widget, you should see a- 20dbm improvement.
Where you keep your right hand while using your A7 makes a big difference as well.
The lower your righthand when in landscape, the less the antenna.is obstructed.
The fix was quick and easy. Some signal improvement was seen right away, but I'm waiting to test it out in other settings. Here at work I'm on the 10th floor of a well-built brick building and I'm been using wifi from a conference room on the 3rd floor. I can just barely use the browser, but the refresh is very slow. Still, an improvement.
does the swap impact battery life?
bookoo_brainz said:
does the swap impact battery life?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How would it? All you are doing is using the longer wire which was previously unused... Its kinda like putting tin foil on your TV antenna.
I would assume that the better wifi signal would improve battery life if anything.
I did see better signal strength when wireless tethering from my Evo, Will test more connections this weekend
Just finished the swap take less than 2 minutes literally. Easiest mod ever!
Easy to do, but didn't help in my case
I use my A7 on my home network and the furthest point in my house is about 100' from my router.
Without the mod I usually can get all 3 bars on the A7 wi-fi indicator to light at the furthest distance. W/ the blue antenna I got 0-1 bar to light. I switched it back to the white antenna and it works much better in my case.
I didn't try it w/ BT, but BT works OK for me w/ the white antenna.
I noticed the same for mine aswell wasn't testing the signal it self just what the a7 told me with the icon and mine was better with the white. Any one know what the real purpose of the blue one is, the future sim card slot??
rombold said:
I noticed the same for mine aswell wasn't testing the signal it self just what the a7 told me with the icon and mine was better with the white. Any one know what the real purpose of the blue one is, the future sim card slot??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would suspect that it was there for SIM provisions as the original version of the board was fully set up for GSM. Probably just a relic of the old design.
buy.com advertises the sim card slot, it would be cool if we could just send our a7 to elocity and get the new screen put on it when it comes out dont see why not.
KellRT said:
The only issue I have really hated is the weakass wifi signal. Standing 3 meters away from my linksys router I was only getting- 60dmb at best, which is pathetic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I noticed the same issue, so I dug in a little deeper and it turns out that it's the application's fault...or maybe some network apps have issues working correctly with the EA7. Nonetheless, I finally found 1 network application that DOES work with the AE7, and appears to give accurate readouts.
Tha Application is called Network Info II ...and it's free.
www . appbrain . com/app/network-info-ii/aws.apps.networkInfoIi
In this app, once you select WiFi, you will see a refresh button(that works).
Instead of -60 dBm when 10ft from my router, I see -30 dBm to -40dBm...depending how I'm holding it, etc.
Interestingly enough, by using this refresh button, I was finally able to see some differences in signal strength based on the way I was holding the device. For me, it seems like the device prefers to be held on the left or bottom side for the best network performance(usually 5-8dBm stronger signal)...which works out perfectly for a right hander. Also noticed that pointing the back side or right side of the device at the wifi source seemed to improve signal strength...of course individual results may vary...especially since Im pretty sure I'm radioactive, lol.
As soon as I find a microscopic torx, t-4 I think, I will disassemble my device and do some comparison tests with both antennas, and look at possible re-routes of the antenna itself, which might improve wifi performance even more.
rombold said:
buy.com advertises the sim card slot, it would be cool if we could just send our a7 to elocity and get the new screen put on it when it comes out dont see why not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Companies are usually not geared for this type of service commitment level. However...after the new device comes out, and the old devices arent in the marketplace, and if your unit is still covered under some warranty, and if your unit "mysteriously" stops working ...your warranty replacement unit will probably be the new one.
I just know they would replace a screen if it breaks why can't they just put the new one in and charge me?
The idea of it all sounds good.
rombold said:
buy.com advertises the sim card slot, it would be cool if we could just send our a7 to elocity and get the new screen put on it when it comes out dont see why not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
rombold said:
I just know they would replace a screen if it breaks why can't they just put the new one in and charge me?
The idea of it all sounds good.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, it is to early in the morning here right now for me to have the motivation to search.
Are you the guy that had the physically broken screen? Or would this be to gain multitouch?
If the reason is the latter, it won't work. If it is that your the guy with the busted screen, I'd tell them to fix it for free. Tell them it's their fault, and that you got frustrated and punched it lol
Nope not me just saying should be able to put different screen in is all.
rombold said:
Nope not me just saying should be able to put different screen in is all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For what gain though? I haven't had my coffee and I'm confused lol
Hello, I ve a BIG problem with my HTC Leo (HD2). I bought it 2 days ago from second-hand. It has windows mobile 6,5. I tried login to 'marketplace' from wi fi but it doesnt work. I ve got 3 notebook in my house and PSP and there is connection with Wi Fi with all this stuff.At last HTC catched signal when I turned back HTC to antenna which was 30 cm from mobile. I losed signal when I moved HTC. I changed RADIO (from XX.XX.51.XX to XX.XX.50.XX) and ROM and installed Android SD/inROM. I changed BUILD many times and problems always was the same - no signal. Now I have STOCK HTC BUILD
OS version 5.2.21869
ROM version 1.48.479.1 WWE
RADIO version 2.05.51.05_2
This problem is still appearing. Please help me because i dont know what I should to do.
PS. Im sorry for my english mistakes
S_H_O_O_T
whether nobody knows how solve my problem? Very please help
Sounds likely to be hardware related.
You could try a Task 29 & then a Energy ROM & radio from my Signature & see what happens !
Have you tried to set wifi to best signal performance and seen any improvement ?
I fear use the Task 29 because I fear Brick. Anyway, I can not find "Energy Dinik 23699 Nov24" download. changed the signal for the best performance and conserves battery power and can not see no improvement. Maybe to give up the phone for guarantees?
S_H_O_O_T said:
I fear use the Task 29 because I fear Brick. Anyway, I can not find "Energy Dinik 23699 Nov24" download. changed the signal for the best performance and conserves battery power and can not see no improvement. Maybe to give up the phone for guarantees?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think your wifi cable is loose from inside.
I have disassembled and re-assembled my hd2 2 times. one for cleaning the light sensors (coz the hd2 wud sleep during a call and not wake up)
second to fix the power button. some dirt got under the power button. now everything works well..
my point being. each time i disassemble i notice the wifi cable comes off very easily without much effort. but gps cable comes out if you apply enough pressure.
EDIT. i gave a little wrong info. no need to go deep inside the device. when you take out the back cover the wifi cable is just there. so no need to take apart the screen and flex cable.
also. check if you can pair bluetooth with another device. if you cannot pair the bluetooth or cannot find a bluetooth connection then its definately loose wire.
once u watch this video u will know its very easy
http://wmpoweruser.com/video-learn-how-to-disassemble-your-htc-hd2/
but if i open m phone i lose guarantees
does ur device still have warranty?
btw no need to go inside for the flex cable. read my post again. i have edited my information.
there is absolutely no need to go inside the device. when you remove the bottom cover, the wifi cable is visible.
well...then you can try servicing it in an authorized shop.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
The black wifi cable is located where i have marked in RED
ayyu3m said:
The black wifi cable is located where i have marked in RED
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Original IMAGES and post here by meegulthwarp
i dont have this special screwdriver so i cant open phone . i can find another telephon with BT only when telepfon is nearly my HD2 (10 cm)
S_H_O_O_T said:
i dont have this special screwdriver so i cant open phone . i can find another telephon with BT only when telepfon is nearly my HD2 (10 cm)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
means its the wifi cable. (btw the wifi and bluetooth cable are the same)
since u dont have the tools. u might wana send it off for service or anyone else who is capable of.
ok. write yet what exactly I have to do with the cable after opening the phone?
there will be little socket on the wire on both sides. and the plug will be on the board.
when i say socket and plug...its actually very small.
so just push it place. whichever side is loose that is. remember. its the black cable. dont play with the white cable...which is gps cable.
here is the image of such a cable. its called coaxial cable.
the cable has the female connector and the male connectors is on board on either sides. one is up and the other is on main board (down)
and here are the male connectors marked in RED.
take notice of the orange area i have marked. BE CAREFUL that you dont accidently press on this area. the gold metal clip wil break very easily. this is the actual wifi / bluetooh antennae contacts to the cover.
Do I understand? Simply plug will put more strongly into the slot and should be good to catch WiFi coverage? And if that's not enough, and still will not log in correctly wifi what I must do. I want to know now to not ride to the commission sale after 1000 times
"dzizys .... za co , panie za co... "
YEP. last night only collins521 was having the same problem. after he reconnected the cable his wifi is working in full strength.
see here what he had to say.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1140737
ayyu3m,
VERY helpful posts regarding the WiFi problems--especially excellent with the informative photos. On a semi-related note, I've just developed severe reception (regular signal, not wifi) problems on a year-and-a-half old HD2. Signal quality has abruptly plunged recently, and after running exhaustive tests I think I can rule out any and all software/firmware related causes. A hard drop into the street while getting out of my car last month might be the culprit...
Anyway, getting to the point: Since the phone is no longer under warranty, and in similar fashion to your troubleshooting advice above, is there anything I can check in there which could be causing the poor signal reception, like the regular antenna coming "loose" over time or due to a hard knock (or two)? I can't tell from the diagrams you posted, and since I've never opened the HD2 I don't even know where the antenna is located or if it's even accessible for examination without totally dismantling the phone. Any advice you can give me? It would be greatly appreciated.
If not, perhaps I will start a separate thread (and I don't mean to hijack this one), but with the great shots of the HD2 innards along with your clear explanations, I couldn't resist seeing if you had a similar 'how-to' regarding the main antenna.
My DHD GPS contacts were broken when I tried to improve GPS function. So I used an electric wire( or any metalic wire) for antenna. I connected it to the broken position. And I made a hole over the flash cover. I made about 3 ~ 4 cm long wire come out of the hole. It works very well but ugly. Wire is flexible, you can hide it inside a jelly case, and you can take it out when necessary
Acutually no need to contact two points. Only one contact near to camera is needed. Here are some pictures instead of my poor english
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
can you post more photos of the mod? I'm interested...
My another photos
You can use any conductive metalic wire for antenna.
View attachment 813848
Ugly indeed! :-\
Maybe you can mod that retractable telescopic old-style radio antenna thing on the phone casing. It'll give a retro look to the phone
if4ct0r said:
Ugly indeed! :-\
Maybe you can mod that retractable telescopic old-style radio antenna thing on the phone casing. It'll give a retro look to the phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have hoped so. And some manufacturer might make a special flash cover capable of enhancing GPS performance.
TO the OP: How broken are the contacts? I also had GPS issues, then I read somewhere that you can drop on a ball of solder to fix this. Basically, the thickness of the solder ball forces contact with the antenna.
See pic:
trekkie0927 said:
TO the OP: How broken are the contacts? I also had GPS issues, then I read somewhere that you can drop on a ball of solder to fix this. Basically, the thickness of the solder ball forces contact with the antenna.
See pic:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First I soldered them, but overheated to destroy the point on the cover So I created another solution. Anyway this works well. Somebody said the length of wire would be best if 9.5 cm because it fits the frequency of GPS signal. But I think it's too long to carry in my pocket. He suggested another length, 4.75cm ( 1/2 of 9.5 cm ).
What Watt soldering iron did you use?
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
Why would you do something as ugly as this mod to your phone when you could at least hide the wire inside? Not to mention this mod has been posted and around for awhile. This is old news. And whoever told you 9.5cm or 4.7cm for antenna was pulling your leg.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1318892
Agoattamer said:
Why would you do something as ugly as this mod to your phone when you could at least hide the wire inside? Not to mention this mod has been posted and around for awhile. This is old news. And whoever told you 9.5cm or 4.7cm for antenna was pulling your leg.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1318892
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well 4.7cm is the correct size for a quarter wave antenna. So that is correct.
GPS Accuracy 1 meter!
Yesterday on a moving( 88 km/h ) car.
I used about 5 cm long cable for GPS antenna replacement.
Do you have pictures of the inside connection to the GPS module ??
The inside connection to the GPS module.
I extracted a thin cable from a USB cable( including some thin cables inside).
I tied the cable to fix it tightly on the flash cover. And I made a hole over the cover.
The flash photo uploaded is an old one. I broke several covers : (
You can connect it to only single contact. But I think connecting two contacts would be better.
The cable is very thin, so you can hide it inside a jelly case. In my case, eiven if it is hidden inside, GPS signal can be detected( but accuracy is low then ).
My current cass with the GPS anttena.
It's a jelly case. I made a hole on the upper side of the case. Not very ugly, I think.
easy fix
Hey guy's,
Here is an easy fix download GPS status from market touch the menu button and select tools and select manage aGPS settings reset the data and select download restart your phone it worked for me got around 5 satellites in 5 seconds
But any software tweak is useless if you have connection problem... I tired every software, gps.conf file but eventually i ordered a replacement flash cover/gps antenna from ebay about 10$ with tools.
I don't know about u man but that really worked with my dhd
after using the sensation battery inside my desire hd, i'm curious about such mods, but i hope i don't have to use this one, because it's really ugly
but nice, really nice
jazon7 said:
after using the sensation battery inside my desire hd, i'm curious about such mods, but i hope i don't have to use this one, because it's really ugly
but nice, really nice
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's very possible to put the wire inside the antenna cover and get almost the same performance with no external sign of modification.
True. there are different ways of hiding the antenna. You'd only loose maybe 3-8m of accuracy, but it's better then having a wire sticking out.
So I'm making a flexible, detachable monitor out of my atrix lapdock, a cheap flexible lamp, some cheap aluminium and a micro-hdmi -> hdmi converter!!!
Lamp
Here http://www.amazon.com/Globe-Electri...1392864024&sr=1-7&keywords=flexible+desk+lamp
or Here http://www.amazon.com/Boston-Harbor-TL-TB-170-BK3L-Flexible-Black/dp/B002SDNSF6
NOTE: Not the same one I used, as I just used what I had lying around, it needs to have a large diameter neck to fit the cords inside.
So far I have the initial mount tapped and screwed onto the head of the lamp, and the Power cord whittled down to fit through it.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Lapdock
Only necessary parts are the motherboard and the Hall Sensor plugged into it to make the screen work, seen here
Aluminium
Making a case from aluminum to cover/protect internals, this will be screwed into the back of the lapdock's screen and attached/detached
from the lamp mount via magnets.
HDMI Converter
Here is the one I'm ordering.
http://www.amazon.com/Importer520-P...-1-catcorr&keywords=female+micro+hdmi+to+hdmi
I will make a tut when this is complete.
*** For some reason my screen has an extreme blue/green tint? Not sure if this is from handling internals so much and causing damage or what but it worked fine on my other Atrix? If anyone has an extra broken lapdock they'd like to donate so I can fix this? Not needed but very welcome Now that the phone is so old,
I hope more cool projects like this come up.
***ALSO I want to squeeze an hdmi through the lamp neck however connector is much too large. Anyone know if you can cut an HDMI and successfully solder it back on? (Something like 19 wires?)
Anybody interested in doing this? I've ordered my cable and will post the assembled pics when it arrives!
jeffreygtab said:
For some reason my screen has an extreme blue/green tint?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's because you've lost the TMDS data 2 signal (Red) on pins 1, 2, 3.
A gooseneck lamp is clever.
I used a desk mic stand for my Nook. The base is a lot heavier.
See: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=26880178#post26880178
This is one mic stand: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PAW6EG/
Renate NST said:
That's because you've lost the TMDS data 2 signal (Red) on pins 1, 2, 3.
A gooseneck lamp is clever.
I used a desk mic stand for my Nook. The base is a lot heavier.
See: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=26880178#post26880178
This is one mic stand: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PAW6EG/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you referring to the 30pin or the one that the lcd plugs into? I have no idea what the schematics are for the lapdock so that'd help. If it's fixable I'll try giving it a soldering when I go to robotics! I'm just learning though so hopefully I don't botch it.
Well, you've lost the red somewhere.
I don't have an exact idea of what you are doing so I can't say.
Your "Lapdock" is what model? Did I miss that?
You've given lots of links, but none for the "Lapdock".
Presuming that it takes an HDMI signal and converts it to LVDS for the LCD display you've lost it somewhere.
If there is some builtin on-screen display generated internally check that for a true white image ("No signal connected" warning or whatever).
That will tell you if you lost it in the HDMI or the LVDS section.
Renate NST said:
Well, you've lost the red somewhere.
I don't have an exact idea of what you are doing so I can't say.
Your "Lapdock" is what model? Did I miss that?
You've given lots of links, but none for the "Lapdock".
Presuming that it takes an HDMI signal and converts it to LVDS for the LCD display you've lost it somewhere.
If there is some builtin on-screen display generated internally check that for a true white image ("No signal connected" warning or whatever).
That will tell you if you lost it in the HDMI or the LVDS section.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its the Motorola atrix lapdock. The "No signal" popped up recently and it didn't display accurate whites at all...
Oh, well then in your "physical reformation" of the Lapdock you've lost connectivity between the board and the LCD.
Carefully check and reseat the ribbon connectors.
Check to make sure that you didn't separate and fold back the delicate foil on the flat cables.
Renate NST said:
Oh, well then in your "physical reformation" of the Lapdock you've lost connectivity between the board and the LCD.
Carefully check and reseat the ribbon connectors.
Check to make sure that you didn't separate and fold back the delicate foil on the flat cables.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That sounds like something I easily could have done because I was fiddling with the connectors a ton during the initial tear down. I'll post pics tomorrow morning.
EDIT: Pics, I don't see why it's not working...
Yeah The LVDS cable is way to small to see if it's damaged... I guess I'll just have to deal with it.