Don't know how it happened, but just looked at the back of my Tytn, and it is missing that little plastic/rubber cap that goes over the Car Angenna Connector (that's what they call it in the manual). Can anyone suggest how I could get/buy a new/used one ? I haven't seen any posts of this type of thing happening to anyone else..not sure why? I now realize that it must be a removeable cap. I am surprised that nobody else, seems to lose theirs. Anyways, any suggestions are appreciated. It certainly shouldn't cost a fortune for such a puny thing!..
see if you can find it here..
good luck.
If all else fails, try the end cap from a Bic Stic ballpoint pen -- the little plastic bit plugging the non-writing end of the pen's barrel. Should be pretty close to the right size.
Thank you for your suggestions
Will try your link,, and try your Bic suggestions.
One thing you could also do is use a piece of black electrical tape to cover the antenna hole underneath the battery door. When you put the battery door back on, it will look just as it did before as the tape will be underneath it.
I think I found an almost perfect substitute
I went to the Home Depot and bought a package of Self-Adhesive Foam and Vinyl Pads. Different sizes, but the one that I bought had black ones, different sizes. I just had to trim ,make a smaller circle out of any of the black ones, to slightly ,but barely overcover the hole, then I placed back the back cover on top of it. You should make sure that the pad isn't too thick. Mine were fine. I suppose, instead of even taking off the back, you could approach it by keeping the back on, cutting a round piece that would fit snuggly into the hole. Too boot, the sticky part, should more or less adhere to the exposed bits that are in the hole. I prefered the other way, because it adhered to the actual back of the phone,near the hole a lot better. Hopefully I helped those people find a better way, than using bic pens blunt end. I tried that , but not nearly as good as my method.
Just curious if anyone else was thinking about modifying the Pre Touchstone back for the EVO. Obviously the intent here is to use the Palm Touchstone to hold/charge the EVO as easily.
It would appear easy enough to lift the coil / magents off of the touchstone back and place it on the back of the EVO battery cover. Wondering though of a good spot to wire the contacts in. Ill do a little probing tomorrow of the voltages and see if it is even possible to do this without opening the phone more than the batter cover.
Interesting idea. Doesn't the EVO have a curved back? Wouldn't that make placing it on the touchstone difficult?
Wonder if Seidio would be interested in making a back that would work with the touchstone? I'd pay for that in a heartbeat...
This would be pretty dope because I have a spare touchstone after selling my pre a few months back...
i will also help with this as i have everything i need
illogic6 said:
Interesting idea. Doesn't the EVO have a curved back? Wouldn't that make placing it on the touchstone difficult?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the Pre has a very curved back, soo..... not really.
powermat is currently working on some replaceable batteries for several phones, which would bring there induction charging to a phone without the need of a special backplate, or case...
only problem will be the connectors
The voltage produced from the coil / ic is +5.5VDC when sitting on the touchstone. From looking at the http://s1.guide-images.ifixit.com/igi/hVm1pujhBWHaYT5X.huge inside, it would appear there are several contacts that could be used to tie that into the power system. I would probably want to route this into whatever is common with the usb port power and have to probe a little more when I get the device.
I started separating the coil from the battery cover and found that the coil/iron disks are larger than it would appear. They sit recessed into indentations in the plastic back. This may be a no go depending on the clearance of the battery door (ill get my EVO today and see)
It would be insanely nice if Sedio produced a compatible back, however, Im pretty sure Palm has that patented pretty well.
(image courtesy of iFixIt)
I finished. Used a couple of wirewrap wires to keep the depth down a little. Cover still fits a little loose though. Would be nice if someone could make a back with the same dimensional imprint (customevos / seidio / hint hint). Who needs a lego dock when you have this
zonyl said:
I finished. Used a couple of wirewrap wires to keep the depth down a little. Cover still fits a little loose though. Would be nice if someone could make a back with the same dimensional imprint (customevos / seidio / hint hint). Who needs a lego dock when you have this
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you take more pictures of the soldering on the EVO side of things? I transplanted the touchstone internals into my 2600mAh battery cover on my Pre.
npaulseth said:
Can you take more pictures of the soldering on the EVO side of things? I transplanted the touchstone internals into my 2600mAh battery cover on my Pre.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This person made a far better guide than I could.
http://www.goodandevo.net/2010/06/h...rk-with-palm-touchstone-wireless-charger.html
The pictures are quite big. Resize the browser window width to shrink the pictures to a more manageable size.
Disclaimer: Perform the following repairs at your own risk. This thread is for educational purposes only. You will void your warranty if you proceed. But that's implied, right?
Disassembly
Many of you will already know how troublesome sending a phone back to the manufacturer for repairs is. This is especially the case for OnePlus, whose after-sales support isn't exceptional, and compared to the price of the OPO itself, their repair costs are by no means affordable ($201 and an unknown amount of days). I've read that a number of forum members have repaired their screens themselves using parts from the internet, but it wasn't all that well documented. So as a mobile phone repairer by profession, I thought it would help a lot of people with broken screens for me to write up a detailed walkthrough/tutorial teaching them how to fix it themselves. Let's get to it!
New: a video! (credits to @stephenlotus)
Note that this guide can be used to replace any modular component; the StyleSwap cover, camera, charging port, you name it - just disassemble your phone until you reach your desired step, replace the faulty/damaged part, then re-assemble it!
Actually obtaining the replacement part? Well, that's another story
Equipment/Materials:
Precision screwdriver set (cross-head/Phillip's head, flat-head)
Sharp craft knife/Stanley knife
Plastic pry tools
Fine-tipped tweezers
Stainless steel pry tools
Thin, rigid cards/guitar picks
Hairdryer/industrial hot air gun (recommended)
Air blower (use this to clean the cameras and lenses before closing it up (not your breath))
A full screen assembly (not just the see-through glass digitizer)*
A roll (or a couple of different widths) of double-sided 3M repair tape or pre-cut 3M tape (see second post)
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*The screen can be bought from various sellers on the internet starting from about $80 for the more repair-friendly version, depending on postage and stuff. Given the exclusive nature of the OnePlus One, any seller that sells a "Genuine/Original/OEM" screen assembly is 95% guaranteed to be an original screen. It isn't profitable for third party manufacturers to produce aftermarket replacements or re-manufacture working LCDs with broken glass (glass broken but LCD still works, remove broken glass and re-laminate a new one onto it). The market is small, because most people would still prefer to RMA their phones.
Also note that this guide assumes you will be re-using the old frame/chassis. If you plan to replace it too, then you will need to remove the earpiece grille (if the new screen doesn't have it) from the old screen, and it's best to move the foam lining from the old frame to the new frame too.
I don't think I'm allowed to disclose sites that sell "original" OnePlus accessories/parts, so get Googling!
Actually, I can now. Mwahahahahaha!
You can buy the screen assembly from sites like eBay and AliExpress. I recommend getting the fully assembled screen, complete with capacitive key backlights:
www.aliexpress.com/item/for-Oneplus...zer-assembly-by-free-shipping/2022582516.html
The one without the button backlights is cheaper, but you'll have to take it from your old screen:
www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shippi...mbly-For-Oneplus-One-1-A0001/32245677673.html
Do not get the glass/digitizer only, unless you're up to the challenge, your LCD still works and you want the great savings:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Orig...or-OnePlus-One-Free-shipping/32243992827.html
Note: there's absolutely nothing wrong with my OnePlus One (well, except for very mild touchscreen issues). If I were to wait until I actually break it (which is never in a million years), I'd never get around to writing this tutorial. Your experience may vary, depending on severity of damage.
Step 1: Eject the SIM tray.
Step 2: Remove the StyleSwap cover. Using a plastic pry tool, start by lightly wedging it underneath the SIM slot (do not pry), and run it across the gap to release the clips. This ensures minimal/no damage to the battery and/or scratches to the StyleSwap cover, unlike using OnePlus' "Press and Peel" method. Never forget.
Step 3: Using a knife with a sharp tip, remove the rubber screw caps covering the three screws in the middle of the camera lens cover.
Step 4: Unscrew all the screws, and put them in a safe place where you won't lose them.
Step 5: Using a plastic pry tool, pry off the camera cover from the corner near the power button or volume button. Caution! The battery flex may be stuck to the cover, so don't lift it up all the way. Detach it from the cover before fully removing it.
Step 6: Using the aforementioned method, do the same for the speaker assembly. Remove the rubber screw caps, unscrew all the screws and store in a safe place. Note how the screws covered with the caps are smaller.
Step 7: Pry off the speaker assembly, starting from the USB port.
Step 8: Use a plastic pry tool to detach the battery flex connector if it hasn't detached yet, then carefully wedge a stainless steel pry tool underneath the battery, starting at the bottom left corner. This side has less adhesive, so it's easier to start on this side. DO NOT PUSH DOWN INTO THE CHASSIS. Delicate flex cables reside here. Keep all pushing of the pry tool as horizontal as possible.
Step 9: Once the left side of the battery has lifted enough, change directions of the pry tool. Use the left side of the chassis as a leverage point, and lift the battery out of the battery well. Be careful not to puncture or deform the battery. You can use a pry tool to cut the adhesive on the right side off the battery.
Step 10: Unplug all the flex cable connectors off the logic board. There are 4 along the bottom edge and 1 to the left of the camera. DO NOT USE THE LOGIC BOARD AS A LEVERAGE POINT. There are delicate surface mount components on the logic board that can easily be damaged accidentally and are nearly impossible to replace. Hold down the logic board, and pull the flex connector up and away from the board.
Alternatively, if you want to cut to the chase and just replace the screen without removing all that other stuff, you can, by only disconnecting the LCD and digitizer flex (rightmost flex along the bottom and the wide flex in the top left corner respectively) and skipping to Step 19. Just remember to remove the plastic block in Step 16 and also be careful not to overheat the earpiece area.
Step 11: Unscrew the screw holding down the logic board. It is located next to the power button. Do not lose it for mix it up with the other screws. It is different in every dimension.
Step 12: Using a sharp knife, peel the button flexes off the chassis, making sure the bottom edge comes off first and be careful not to cut the flex.
Step 13: Push the digitizer flex away from the logic board so it doesn't get caught, and lift the logic board up from the chassis in an arc motion, starting from the top left corner. Rotate it clockwise while doing so.
Step 14: There is still one connector still connected to the logic board on the underside, and that's the cellular antenna connector. Pull the antenna slightly out of its groove.
Step 15: Detach the antenna connector from the logic board using a plastic pry tool. You can use the logic board as the leverage point here, but make sure there aren't any delicate components nearby.
Step 16: Using a pair of fine-tipped tweezers, remove the plastic block that sits next to the digitizer flex connector.
iFixit's teardown does not cover this. If you don't remove it, the flex connector will be caught and will not come out.
Step 17: Carefully, using a flat-head screwdriver, remove the earpiece. This prevents the diaphragm from being damaged later on, when the hot air gun is used.
CAUTION: the earpiece's diaphragm and voice coil has the tendency to fall apart and separate itself from the rest of the earpiece. Be careful.
Step 18 (optional if doing a screen replacement, just don't damage them in the process): Peel the speaker/antenna/vibrate motor flex and USB port flex from the chassis, and remove them.
Step 19: Evenly heat the bezels of the screen using a hairdryer on high heat setting or a hot air gun on a med-high heat setting (~300 °C/~600 °F) on low airflow setting. This softens the adhesive holding the screen in place, making removal easier. Caution! The chassis can become very hot, as it is metal. Do not heat one area for a prolonged period of time, as it can permanently deform the plastic bezel surrounding the screen (or damage the LCD/digitizer, if it's a working one you intend to reuse).
This step I do not have exact instructions for, because my screen isn't broken. I had to be careful not to break it, as it was my only screen. You can use a knife to pry off broken pieces of glass.
WARNING: If you are removing a working intact display and intend to keep it that way, do NOT separate any of the LCD layers from the glass. As it is laminated, separating it will result in permanent damage to the display assembly.
I don't know what this copper does. It doesn't seem significant. New screen assemblies don't seem to have it. Also note that the screen is removed as a single piece assembly.
Step 20: Scrape off the copper bits and the old adhesive from the chassis using a tool of your choice, making sure to not damage anything else.
Step 21: Clean up your work area to prepare for re-assembly! Be careful of broken glass bits.
Obligatory exploded view pic:
Re-assembly
Now might be a good time to fix your grounding issues! If your touch issues arose from the increase of the device's temperature, you may have to cover the whole metallic back of the LCD with tape too.
Note: if the screen still has issues even when isolated as below, then the screen itself may be faulty.
To re-assemble it, it pretty much is just going through the steps in reverse order. When the phone is fully disassembled and nothing is adhered into place, now's the time to test your replacement screen assembly. You can do so by fitting the screen into the frame without using any adhesive, connect it to the logic board along with the battery and turn it on, or if you're lazy like me, just connect it up like this:
It is not recommended to keep the phone powered on for any longer than a few minutes like this, because the logic board effectively has no heatsink.
Step 1: As mentioned before, the old glue can no longer be reused, so we'll have to apply some adhesive tape, cut by hand. If this were a mainstream phone, it'd be pretty easy to get machine-cut 3M tape that fits the bezel perfectly, to ensure an optimal fit.
Sadly, this isn't the case, so we'll have to resort to rolls of that tape of various widths. You can buy these from eBay by searching "3M double sided repair tape".
Update: pre-cut tape is now an option! You can get it on AliExpress .
I personally used 1 mm for the side bezels and 3 mm for the top and bottom, but experiment to obtain maximum coverage. Make sure you don't cover any sensor holes. Usually, this tape in roll form isn't adequately thick, so double up and use two layers.
IMPORTANT: Check that there aren't remnants of broken glass on the bezel when you install the screen or tape. They can cause the screen to easily break.
Also check that you've moved the earpiece grille and capacitive key backlight pads (if the new screen doesn't have them) over from the old screen to the new one. And if you really want to, move the foam ring surrounding the front camera hole in the glass to. It prevents light from the LCD's backlight from leaking into view.
Step 2: Thread the flexes through their respective holes, and fit the screen into the chassis. Lightly heat the bezels (not too much; you don't want to damage the new LCD) to soften the adhesive, and place the screen face down on a clean, flat surface. Push down on the chassis with moderate force.
Step 3: Replace the rubber plastic block that sits in the digitizer flex slot.
Step 4: Make sure the proximity sensor, light sensor and front camera holes are clean and aren't covered by tape.
Step 5: If they were removed during the disassembly, replace the speaker/antenna/vibrate motor flex, then the USB port flex. Watch out for that weird bit that sticks out on the left ide of the speaker flex. Don't forget to reconnect the cellular antenna down the bottom.
Step 6: Put the earpiece back into the chassis. It should be oriented such that the two contact points are next to the digitizer flex.
Step 7: Reconnect the cellular antenna at the logic board. Do not push hardly unless you're absolutely sure it's aligned correctly.
Step 8: Tuck the antenna back into its groove.
Step 9: When reseating the logic board, ensure that the flex connectors stay clear from it. You don't want to have them end up underneath the logic board. Check that the board is flush with the screw holes.
Step 10: Make sure the front camera is also sitting flush. If it isn't, the camera cover may not fit, and the front camera will not be centered.
Step 11: Reconnect all the flex cables, and replace the logic board screw.
Step 12: Stick the button flexes back down onto the chassis.
Step 13: Straighten all the flex cables by lifting them up and stretching them towards the logic board, the stick them back down.
Step 14: Put the battery back in, then reconnect the flex.
Step 15: Replace the camera cover and screw it back into place.
Step 15b: Replace the tamper seal/water damage indicator (you won't get warranty either way, but might as well)
Step 16: Put the speaker assembly back in, and screw it into place.
Step 17: Replace all the rubber screw caps.
Step 18: Replace the StyleSwap cover, and put the SIM tray (with card) back in. Although the tray fits either way (like in Sony's Xperia Z series phones), the side with the gold contacts should face up when the phone faces down. Inserting it upside down will result in the phone not reading the SIM card, and risk damage to the internal SIM reader. LG, HTC and Apple's phones' SIM trays are designed to only fit one-way.
Step 19: Turn the phone on, and enjoy the results of your efforts!
Added to OnePlus One index thread:
[INDEX] OnePlus One Resources Compilation Roll-Up
Transmitted via Bacon
How difficult is this repair for someone who has no experience repairing phones?
I broke my screen 2 days ago and I'm wondering if it's worth trying to repair it, this guide seems pretty solid but some steps look like you might easily break the phone entirely.
naithantu said:
How difficult is this repair for someone who has no experience repairing phones?
I broke my screen 2 days ago and I'm wondering if it's worth trying to repair it, this guide seems pretty solid but some steps look like you might easily break the phone entirely.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have no experience it'll probably be pretty difficult for you, unless you have a good technical/mechanical mind.
timmaaa said:
If you have no experience it'll probably be pretty difficult for you, unless you have a good technical/mechanical mind.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess it should be possible to do it myself then, or at least give it a try
I'll probably order a new screen tomorrow, will post here in a month or so when the screen arrived
Query
Excellent guide and I have all the bits removed from the old frame.
I thought I would be an easier route to use a brand new frame, instead of trying to heat the old LCD off.
I have tested everything on the bench and it powers up and we have touch screen
But I have now stopped the reassembly to check the following out. The new frame although having the required sticky parts does not have the black parts, which I assume is insulation.
Do I need this? what can I replace it with, is insulation tape ok although slightly thicker or maybe thin scotch magic tape? The guide mentions a good time to fix the touch screen issues, in the 4 days I had it prior to the drop, I don't think I had an issues, but does this need to be done, and am I right in reading that's also just cover the metal of the screen with insulation tape or scotch magic tape again?
I have attached an image of the black tape I refer to on the frame
Thanks,
Stephen.
CyberActive said:
Query
Excellent guide and I have all the bits removed from the old frame.
I thought I would be an easier route to use a brand new frame, instead of trying to heat the old LCD off.
I have tested everything on the bench and it powers up and we have touch screen
But I have now stopped the reassembly to check the following out. The new frame although having the required sticky parts does not have the black parts, which I assume is insulation.
Do I need this? what can I replace it with, is insulation tape ok although slightly thicker or maybe thin scotch magic tape? The guide mentions a good time to fix the touch screen issues, in the 4 days I had it prior to the drop, I don't think I had an issues, but does this need to be done, and am I right in reading that's also just cover the metal of the screen with insulation tape or scotch magic tape again?
I have attached an image of the black tape I refer to on the frame
Thanks,
Stephen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it was originally in the phone, it's always a good idea to replace it, or use a substitute in place of it. I don't know how it'll affect the phone's functionality if it isn't replaced, because I've never tried it. It's best to play it safe and tape up those corresponding areas with electrical tape. Scotch tape may be too thin.
Dang, 4 days??
Also, does your replacement screen have the earpiece grille pre-installed? When I disassembled mine, the earpiece was not part of the frame, but stuck to the screen.
vantt1 said:
If it was originally in the phone, it's always a good idea to replace it, or use a substitute in place of it. I don't know how it'll affect the phone's functionality if it isn't replaced, because I've never tried it. It's best to play it safe and tape up those corresponding areas with electrical tape. Scotch tape may be too thin.
Dang, 4 days??
Also, does your replacement screen have the earpiece grille pre-installed? When I disassembled mine, the earpiece was not part of the frame, but stuck to the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok making some progress
Turns out the black that's under the flat connectors is there on the replacement frame, just a different colour.
I am starting to think that the black that's under the main board could be some sort of heat sink tape? I am referring the black that's actually stuck to the logic board on the top and also on the frame below the logic board and linked to the rear facing camera.
I have tried to remove the old screen with a hair dryer but have failed miserably. So I can not see for myself what the black under the screen was like can you remember if it was like what I believe to be heat sink tape or was it just adhesive or insulation?
Thanks for the heads up about the speaker grill, that is attached to the old screen, I managed to break that out as that's where the screen was smashed.
I have also noticed there is some conductive tape that bridges the frame and back of the screen together, that's not on the replacement parts.
There is also an adhesive o ring stuck to the glass in the front facing camera slot that's not on there replacement part.
Hopefully will get it rebuilt soon
Thanks Stephen
CyberActive said:
Ok making some progress
Turns out the black that's under the flat connectors is there on the replacement frame, just a different colour.
I am starting to think that the black that's under the main board could be some sort of heat sink tape? I am referring the black that's actually stuck to the logic board on the top and also on the frame below the logic board and linked to the rear facing camera.
I have tried to remove the old screen with a hair dryer but have failed miserably. So I can not see for myself what the black under the screen was like can you remember if it was like what I believe to be heat sink tape or was it just adhesive or insulation?
Thanks for the heads up about the speaker grill, that is attached to the old screen, I managed to break that out as that's where the screen was smashed.
I have also noticed there is some conductive tape that bridges the frame and back of the screen together, that's not on the replacement parts.
There is also an adhesive o ring stuck to the glass in the front facing camera slot that's not on there replacement part.
Hopefully will get it rebuilt soon
Thanks Stephen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, that tape is very similar to the type that's found on the inside of the iPhone 5's midframe. Apparently it's a "heat dissipation shield" film. You can probably buy it on eBay then trim it to the same shape as the original.
I don't know what that copper stuff that bridges the LCD to the frame is. I scraped off the bridging bits, and nothing seems off on my end.
Replace that O ring if you can. If you use the front camera, the backlight from the LCD might leak into view. I know it does on the Nexus 5.
Great stuff, slowly getting there, I will get that orderderd and cut to size, these are what I am looking at:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/iPhone-4-...K_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item418dc2333a
and / or
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-iPhone...nk-dissipation-adhesive-sticker-/171636569146
Was it this same stuff that was on the frame surface behind the LCD? or was that just insulation?
Also you mentioned the touch screen fix, what is involved in that?
Thanks Stephen.
CyberActive said:
Great stuff, slowly getting there, I will get that orderderd and cut to size, these are what I am looking at:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/iPhone-4-...K_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item418dc2333a
and / or
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-iPhone...nk-dissipation-adhesive-sticker-/171636569146
Was it this same stuff that was on the frame surface behind the LCD? or was that just insulation?
Also you mentioned the touch screen fix, what is involved in that?
Thanks Stephen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The stuff behind the LCD is more of a foam tape/film than a graphite tape. It feels similar to the one found behind the Nexus 5's LCD, but darker and smoother. And of course, the Nexus 5's isn't big enough.
The touchscreen fix involves putting tape on the chassis underneath the digitizer flex. If the issue was heat related, the metallic back of the LCD may need to be taped up too (apparently along the perimeter, creating a rectangle).
See above picture, circled in red: it looks like there's some heat dissipation tape underneath the LCD too.
Ah ok, any suggestions on what I could replace the stuff behind the LCD with then? I have searched for the nexus 5 stuff and I can no locate any of that either.
Thanks,
Stephen.
CyberActive said:
Ah ok, any suggestions on what I could replace the stuff behind the LCD with then? I have searched for the nexus 5 stuff and I can no locate any of that either.
Thanks,
Stephen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At the moment the best way to obtain it would probably be to take it out of your old frame. It's really hard to find OnePlus One specific parts these days.
guess I will have to go buy a heat gun over the next few days as I tried using a hair dryer and was not able to get even a little bit of movement on lifting the lcd from the frame.
I will post back over the new few days how it goes. fingers crossed.
I followed this guide and it was perfect!
The only downside is that when heating the screen i've managed seperate the plastic bezel from the screen it's self which is now out of shape as well. I'm hoping if i just heat it back up a little I can reform it back.
Just waiting on delivery of some repair tape.
hi guys i just send my one to repair for over 150€ because i thought it could only be changed as a wholle.. screen functions online half of the screen touchscreen doesnt work becuase of a small crack on the side.....SO DO I NEED JUST A NEW TOUCH DIGITIZER??? is this also with the corning glass on top?? mits not right??
Finally got everything I needed to go ahead with the screen replacement. This teardown was extremely helpful. I did have one snag and I haven't tested yet. When removing the earpiece it disassembled into two pieces and unwound but I gingerly repositioned the copper thread and left the earpiece in during the heating and old screen removal.
The new screen is outstanding and completely changes the experience of using the One Plus One. I only wish they had done better quality control in the first place.
Thanks for this guide. I'm going to order a new screen/digitizer today. I guess in about a month I'll be attempting this. When I broke my OnePlus I ordered a new one that day, so I plan on selling the second one if this repair is successful. If it's not, then I guess I lose $70 and some time. Wish me luck!
This is interesting. If appears a new battery technology would be nice guide.
just found a very easy way to replace the whole display in just 3 minutes by accessing it from the front side..
i am not yet allowed to post the link, but if you google this
IMPEXTROM CAMBIAR TROCAR DISPLAY HTC HD2
you will see the 3 minutes video
seems possible as there are 19 positive and just one negative vote on this video..
(my display was broken, but have worked for a year or so.
now it is frozen/ unresponsive and i have purchased a full display.)
but it seems too easy to be true ...
any hints?
thanx &cheers
That been set up for the video as you can see it been off before & the chassis the lcd is bonded to is clean of all bonding tape :-/
Also original has signal interference tape runing down sides across all 3 layers.
also if you heat the front first thing to seperate is the digi from LCD as the lcd to mid chassis is a strong bond.
Best way is popping them out of rear cover, fitting a pre built lcd/digitizer is not hard, just use quality adhesive to hold lcd to centre chassis & buy pre cut black foam tape for the top & bottom digi glass edges or rebuild is next to pointless without this done well.
I've done a good 30 odd HD2 screen & mainboards & no way I could do it to my standard via that video.
Hi Mister B - thanks a lot for your advice, i believe you are right!
but as i have never attempted to disassemble a mobile phone, is there a video tutorial how to do that properly for an absolute beginner?
as I need my phone functioning tomorrow, i'm considering to try it in the morning.
light2 said:
Hi Mister B - thanks a lot for your advice, i believe you are right!
but as i have never attempted to disassemble a mobile phone, is there a video tutorial how to do that properly for an absolute beginner?
as I need my phone functioning tomorrow, i'm considering to try it in the morning.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure if Mister B will reply in time, there is a good thread here http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1566179 with a video in post 2 else google hd2 disassembly youtube perhaps
Hi Robbie P,
Thanks a lot for the link!
Now it seems I will have to postpone this operation for a day or so, until i learn:
1) What time I would need (seems about 2h for a beginner)
2) What money I would need - as I have to buy these tools- what would be a price... i guess 10-15 euros?
(BTW Finally I guess that people who published aforementioned 3.5-minutes tutorial did so not to help us, but to make us damage our smartphones, so their services would then earn more, repairing it?
As I see no other explanation...Now found another such a scam video -
just google " HTC HD2 repair, disassembly manual ")
Cheers
Have a good read of link put up by robbie p
I done a few posts in it that worth looking at as you don't need remove the flexboard & volume button & antenna cables which saves a lot of possible accidents & hassle.
Most important thing is extreme care, volume button is damaged easily if pry of back badly or with screwdriver. antenna tabs are snapped off mainboard with poor handling while separating the layers.
It easy to do but first one is never perfect unless you really pay attention.
You don't need much tools, a basic kit from ebay for about 4euros will cover you along with things you probably got already such as hairdryer & razorblades etc.
Just buy good padded tapes to fit top & bottom of digitizer & strong tape to bond lcd to centre chassis
links to some parts in the HD2 wiki >
http://forum.xda-developers.com/wiki/HTC_HD2#Fixes.2C_Hints_.26_Tips
tools
Hi Mister B!
Thanks a lot for you precious advise.
Will try to do it myself, not in a hurry, as soon as I get 3 hours spare time - hoping it would be enough.
Then I will need to install some good Android instead of the original WM6.5- but that is for another topic
My Qs:
You don't need much tools, a basic kit from ebay for about 4euros will cover you
this is what I got with my display from Ebay: Is it enough?
1 pry tool ,1T5 screwdriver and 1 T6 screwdriver.
Just buy good padded tapes to fit top & bottom of digitizer
I also got this one from Ebay: is it good? if you paste the title below into ebay.co.uk it you will see more details:
2mm Double Sided Layer Adhesive Sticky Tape Sticker for Mobile Phone Glue LCD
& strong tape to bond lcd to centre chassis
Which width, and should it also be double-sided?
Cheers
For tape you want this >
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LCDFIX-Fr...765?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1e9ebb1595
I assume you have lcd & digitizer pre-built new !?
You would be better off with couple more decent pry tools, the green ones tend be better than the blue plastic stuff.
I use 2 pry tools on top of HD2 either side of speaker grill as makes back housing removal a few second job & leaves not one mark if done right.
Only other thing you may need is tweezers & cleaning buds for old glue.
top digitizer tape need be right or blocks sensor hole or looks shabby.
Don't force the old lcd off centre chassis as if gets bent then never fit back right, warming it up with hairdryer helps ease it off.
I always have a spare button board on hand too as makes it easy bench test the lcd/digitizer hook to mainboard side by side with battery held on mainboard pins & spare button board used to power on, also good as likely find old board breaks if gone brittle.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360542084387
tools I've got
Hi Mister B!
Thanks so much for your suggestions!
Yes, I've got the full display, and only the tools as on the photo.
My few Qs:
Only other thing you may need is tweezers & cleaning buds for old glue.
Could not find plastic tweezers, only metal ones... But those cotton sticks for ears i have
I could order the LCD tape, though it seems a long wait (7-10 days) for express delivery up here, so is there an alternative?
Thanks for a link to the button board! As I guess mine is damaged, for during last few months I had to press hard on the power button to get the phone responsive again. Then even this trick stopped working.
But also due to the longer waiting to get in from China - is there a way to test and learn if i need to replace it , before starting digging into my HD2?
Cheers
I would get the lcd digi top/bottom tape kit as what you got in big roll will be no good.
all else is good.
button board is handy as ribbons go brittle so can break plus you can use it to power up the device in a pre build test with lcd/digi & mainboard laid flat side by side & new ribbon plugged in to mainboard to power on. Most stuff makes it to uk pretty quickly, quicker order - quicker get it
Well, i will then order both items today, in hope it won't take too long to deliver up here (Belgrade, Serbia).
A video tutorial with all the tricks you have suggested would be the easiest way to follow, but it seems there's no such a video - yet.
Certainly, I'am either not sure whether will be able to film my own attempt.
Mister B - thanks so much! Following your suggestions, and the topic mentioned by Robbie P - I will likely manage to do the job properly!
Cheers
If have any question during rebuild post them here & I will respond as soon as see it.
Good luck ...
Thanks!