Nexus 7 me370t, pulled antenna off of motherboard, help! - Nexus 7 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

After bending the wifi antenna contacts too many times I broke them both off. The one on the left side left a flat pad still attached to the board, and the right one broke with just a straight piece sticking up. So i decided to try and solder it to the back contacts like some other people have suggested. While trying to solder to the straight up piece I thought it would be easier to solder it if it was flat, and grabbed it with tweezers to break off the price sticking up. Somehow I managed to pull the whole damn thing off the board, so now there's just a bare spot to the board, no metal contact. There is a TINY metal line going from resistors or something to where the contact was. Is there a way I can fix it still? Glue it on? Can't post a picture bc I'm new. Tia

Hi, you will have to order new contact. Try doing a search for antenna contacts for the nexus 7. I had to order them bulk. Not expensive though. Best of luck
Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk

Related

Antenna cover

On my DHD, the antenna cover isn't too much bad in alignment, but it slightly moves and sometimes makes noise.
So, after looking for the coupling, I thought to find a remedy.
I've put a piece of black scotch ribbon (for electrics use) over the SD and the SIM, from side to side of the phone.
I've only cut off a a small rectangle of ribbon, where are the golden contacts.
Now the antenna cover fit perfectly and is pretty silencious,
I think there is no problem to open it, but this is only a my home remedy.
Why not try ?
I had the same issue, did the same thing.
Still wasn't happy with it so I had it replaced, the new one fits correctly.
You might want to do the same thing.
casci said:
On my DHD, the antenna cover isn't too much bad in alignment, but it slightly moves and sometimes makes noise.
So, after looking for the coupling, I thought to find a remedy.
I've put a piece of black scotch ribbon (for electrics use) over the SD and the SIM, from side to side of the phone.
I've only cut off a a small rectangle of ribbon, where are the golden contacts.
Now the antenna cover fit perfectly and is pretty silencious,
I think there is no problem to open it, but this is only a my home remedy.
Why not try ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for this idea, can u post some photo or pictures .
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
I've got the same problem with my one, most probably down to it being branded with the Orange logo.
Did you get your replacement from HTC themselves on the website?
I'm not keen on spending £18 for a new one which will be the same!
Not directly from HTC, I guess.
I took it back after about 2 weeks because of the issue.
The shop said it wasn't normal and gave me a replacment cover for free.

Replacing Touch Digitizer fix NonResponsive Screen?

Hey everyone my HTC HD2 got the Non-Responsive screen problem a week ago, & did a lot of research and found out that it was most likely a hardware problem with a cable..... So a lot of people would tell the people with the problem that the "Touch Screen Digitizer" is dead (like the cable), or it needs to be cleaned... pretty well go out and buy a new one... BUT I have never found evidence that someone has done this and it has successfully "cured" their HTC HD2 Non-Responsive touch screen problem...
So I was looking for anyone on the forums that could confirm this is a solution or give me any tips on what I should do.... AND no I don't have enough money to get a new phone, nor do I live in the USA so I can't send it in to fix it...
This is what I was going to buy for it:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-OEM-HTC-...781?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519a3d2e45
Thanks for taking the time to read my Thread, its much appreciated!! I hope I can find a fix!!
PS: If anyone wanted to know what it looks like out of curiosity I posted 3 pictures with RED circle HIGHLIGHTING the problem when I try to touch something....
My digitizer has been a bit dodgy for the past few months. It's ironic that when I finally found out what the issue was and called HTC, my factory warranty had ended exactly 4 days prior to the call.
Fast forward 3 months and my phone has now been unresponsive for 3 hours despite my prying and tweaking various hard parts.
I disassembled the phone down to the main board just to see how hard the install is, but it's a bit intimidating once it's time to start pulling all the film and ribbons. A bit too tight and small parts for my liking.
Time to hit CL to see if I can find a cheap replacement.
Good luck with your repairs. I may be following in your footsteps if I can not find a good deal.
Yeah I will see how well it goes... if anyone has useful info, i will be more than grad to hear it
Thanks
Many people attempt to replace a digitizer, but I simply don't recommend it, we see enough of do-it-yourselvers who created problems in addition to the original ones.
What I do recommend, however, and I stated it on many threads already, is to get an LCD+DIGITIZER assembly. Simply because it is easier to fit. Not saying the overall fitting is easy, always depends on your overall skill, so ensure that you are familiar with the procedure BEFORE you begin. But you will save yourself a lot of trouble by getting the whole thing, as opposed to the digitizer only for the sake of a few bucks.
However, if anyone still feels intimidated by the whole thing, I am on the lookout for working main board. Advertised a few times in the marketplace with limited success. So if anyone smashed their baby and will be looking to replace, rather than repair - drop me a PM. I am in NZ. Will pay by Paypal.
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
cheeselump said:
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How much did the set cost?
cheeselump said:
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks I will check it out, hopefully it won't be to hard and I hope I can repair it!! oh and could you post a link of the youtube & manual you used to replace your screen?? Thanks
Oh would anyone suggest then just calling HTC and sending it to them to repair?? or does that cost to much??
Thanks everyone for the help
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
GnatGoSplat said:
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yah I was looking at the video's and they were taking off EVERYTHING... it looks really hard to do.. I don't know whether I want to do it anymore.....
oh and are you talking about the digitizer itself or the LCD+digitizer for your method?
Thanks
Heronization said:
Yah I was looking at the video's and they were taking off EVERYTHING... it looks really hard to do.. I don't know whether I want to do it anymore.....
oh and are you talking about the digitizer itself or the LCD+digitizer for your method?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, there is absolutely no reason to take off everything like some people seem to think is necessary.
The way I'm talking about requires removing LCD+digitizer. In fact, I think you'll always have to remove both because the connector for the digitizer is under the LCD. Anyway, the way I did it, I went from removing the the phone insides from the rear housing straight to separating the LCD+digitizer assembly from the frame. No removal of any boards or flex cables. The only cable to be disconnected is the LCD+digitizer assembly one. Getting it disconnected and reconnected does require unplugging the front button flex and removing the screws for the bottom logic board to loosen it, but that's all.
GnatGoSplat said:
Yep, there is absolutely no reason to take off everything like some people seem to think is necessary.
The way I'm talking about requires removing LCD+digitizer. In fact, I think you'll always have to remove both because the connector for the digitizer is under the LCD. Anyway, the way I did it, I went from removing the the phone insides from the rear housing straight to separating the LCD+digitizer assembly from the frame. No removal of any boards or flex cables. The only cable to be disconnected is the LCD+digitizer assembly one. Getting it disconnected and reconnected does require unplugging the front button flex and removing the screws for the bottom logic board to loosen it, but that's all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow that sounds pretty simple! and for you it all works perfectly now?? no calibration needed or problems?? Maybe I will try it after all..... but what screw drivers to I need to dissemble it?? the screws look different from normal..
Heronization said:
Wow that sounds pretty simple! and for you it all works perfectly now?? no calibration needed or problems?? Maybe I will try it after all..... but what screw drivers to I need to dissemble it?? the screws look different from normal..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, it's not that simple because simply getting the HD2 insides out of the rear housing is difficult if you've never done it before. I believe the screwdriver you need is a Torx T-5. Once you get the screws out, you will need a plastic opening tool to go between the digitizer and rear housing frame. They look like this:
http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Plastic-Opening-Tools/IF145-000
I found it comes out much easier if I use the tool to make a gap along the top edge and then slide the entire end of a scrap credit card into that gap, then that makes the whole assembly easier to pry out along the sides with the tool. I know on one of the vids, the guy takes forever doing this part and I can understand why, but once I figured out sliding a credit card into the top gap as far as it would go, I was able to get it apart much easier.
I can't answer whether the phone will work properly, because I just ordered the new digitizer over the weekend and haven't put it back together. I did remove the LCD+digitizer assembly and then re-connected it and put it back, then powered on the phone just to make sure pulling the LCD didn't hurt it - it didn't, everything worked as well as it did before. I did manage to crack the digitizer more when I tried to get the insides out of the rear housing before I figured out the credit card trick, so fortunately I was not trying to save my digitizer as it was already cracked. If you are just wanting to try to clean or fiddle with the connection, then you're going to have to be a LOT more careful than I was because it was all too easy to crack the digitizer!
I'm guessing yours probably needs replacement though. I sent my HTC Surround in for a funny acting digitizer, and the digitizer was replaced.
Oh, and if I would have bought an LCD+digitizer pre-assembled unit, that would have been super easy to replace. However, I opted to save $50+ by buying just the digitizer. Not too sure how I'm going to prevent dust getting in it, and I've read thickness of the adhesive is critical. I may regret it later!
GnatGoSplat said:
Well, it's not that simple because simply getting the HD2 insides out of the rear housing is difficult if you've never done it before. I believe the screwdriver you need is a Torx T-5. Once you get the screws out, you will need a plastic opening tool to go between the digitizer and rear housing frame. They look like this:
http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Plastic-Opening-Tools/IF145-000
I found it comes out much easier if I use the tool to make a gap along the top edge and then slide the entire end of a scrap credit card into that gap, then that makes the whole assembly easier to pry out along the sides with the tool. I know on one of the vids, the guy takes forever doing this part and I can understand why, but once I figured out sliding a credit card into the top gap as far as it would go, I was able to get it apart much easier.
I can't answer whether the phone will work properly, because I just ordered the new digitizer over the weekend and haven't put it back together. I did remove the LCD+digitizer assembly and then re-connected it and put it back, then powered on the phone just to make sure pulling the LCD didn't hurt it - it didn't, everything worked as well as it did before. I did manage to crack the digitizer more when I tried to get the insides out of the rear housing before I figured out the credit card trick, so fortunately I was not trying to save my digitizer as it was already cracked. If you are just wanting to try to clean or fiddle with the connection, then you're going to have to be a LOT more careful than I was because it was all too easy to crack the digitizer!
I'm guessing yours probably needs replacement though. I sent my HTC Surround in for a funny acting digitizer, and the digitizer was replaced.
Oh, and if I would have bought an LCD+digitizer pre-assembled unit, that would have been super easy to replace. However, I opted to save $50+ by buying just the digitizer. Not too sure how I'm going to prevent dust getting in it, and I've read thickness of the adhesive is critical. I may regret it later!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok thanks I think thats what I am going to do, first dissemble it then try to move the cable around because, just yesterday it started to work again and then today it isn't working. I will contact you if I have a problem or get stuck, if that is ok with you
Thanks a lot
Heronization said:
Ok thanks I think thats what I am going to do, first dissemble it then try to move the cable around because, just yesterday it started to work again and then today it isn't working. I will contact you if I have a problem or get stuck, if that is ok with you
Thanks a lot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, no prob. I can post a pic of the digitizer lifted from the frame which shows where the adhesive tapes are that you have to go through, if it would help.
GnatGoSplat said:
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey lolz I need your help already, I just took off the back housing and now Im lost on what to do... It looks to me as if you do have to remove the cables from the motherboard to get to it?? and what is the double sided tape? and isn't everything connected to the lcd?? lolz this is my first time doing any phone disassemble.. Thanks
added a picture of what I was thinking of doing... or am I doing this all wrong... because you did say we don't need to remove any flex cable or wires and stuff
Thanks!!
Heronization said:
Hey lolz I need your help already, I just took off the back housing and now Im lost on what to do... It looks to me as if you do have to remove the cables from the motherboard to get to it?? and what is the double sided tape? and isn't everything connected to the lcd?? lolz this is my first time doing any phone disassemble.. Thanks
added a picture of what I was thinking of doing... or am I doing this all wrong... because you did say we don't need to remove any flex cable or wires and stuff
Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, I didn't disconnect anything except the circled connector on the far right of your picture. You will need to do that to remove the LCD flex cable from the logic board.
I've attached a pic of the LCD module loosened from the frame. What you do is use something thin and flat to separate the adhesive tape holding the LCD to the frame. You will need to lift some of that black fabric tape on the edge to see where the LCD module meets the frame. Near the top, you will probably have to slide your separating tool all the way through to separate the tape (I used a scrap credit card). Avoid the area where the LCD flex cable is, because you could damage it! It's on the lower right of the LCD if you are looking from the front. When the LCD is loose, lift up from left to right (when LCD is facing you), pretending that there is a hinge on the right side. This is because you don't want to put any force on the LCD flex.
Once you've got your phone looking like my picture, you can remove the "captain" (orange tape), unlatch the LCD flex from the top, remove the button flex from its connector, then loosen the bottom logic board from the frame just enough to pull the flex out of the connector.
I hope that makes sense! It probably helps to know that a very strong double-sided sticky tape is all that holds the LCD+digitizer assembly to the frame, and there is only one flex cable connecting LCD+digitizer assembly to the rest of the phone.
GnatGoSplat said:
Nope, I didn't disconnect anything except the circled connector on the far right of your picture. You will need to do that to remove the LCD flex cable from the logic board.
I've attached a pic of the LCD module loosened from the frame. What you do is use something thin and flat to separate the adhesive tape holding the LCD to the frame. You will need to lift some of that black fabric tape on the edge to see where the LCD module meets the frame. Near the top, you will probably have to slide your separating tool all the way through to separate the tape (I used a scrap credit card). Avoid the area where the LCD flex cable is, because you could damage it! It's on the lower right of the LCD if you are looking from the front. When the LCD is loose, lift up from left to right (when LCD is facing you), pretending that there is a hinge on the right side. This is because you don't want to put any force on the LCD flex.
Once you've got your phone looking like my picture, you can remove the "captain" (orange tape), unlatch the LCD flex from the top, remove the button flex from its connector, then loosen the bottom logic board from the frame just enough to pull the flex out of the connector.
I hope that makes sense! It probably helps to know that a very strong double-sided sticky tape is all that holds the LCD+digitizer assembly to the frame, and there is only one flex cable connecting LCD+digitizer assembly to the rest of the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome I will try it now, I do need to heat the screen some for the tape to get sticky so I can pry it off right?? and I am guessing once you have removed that tape you can't "just stick it back on together and it will work right?? right??
Heronization said:
Awesome I will try it now, I do need to heat the screen some for the tape to get sticky so I can pry it off right?? and I am guessing once you have removed that tape you can't "just stick it back on together and it will work right?? right??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could try heating; I didn't, but maybe it will come apart easier if you do. In the HTC factory service video, they mentioned putting the whole phone into the oven to loosen the tape. I didn't know if it would be a good idea to do that complete with all the circuit boards or not.
No, without heat, the tape is definitely ruined and I will need to replace it. I was planning to use some leftover tape I have from fixing iPhone digitizers so I didn't even attempt to salvage the existing tape. Not sure if it's even possible to salvage that tape considering you need to stick some kind of tool in there to separate it.
GnatGoSplat said:
You could try heating; I didn't, but maybe it will come apart easier if you do. In the HTC factory service video, they mentioned putting the whole phone into the oven to loosen the tape. I didn't know if it would be a good idea to do that complete with all the circuit boards or not.
No, without heat, the tape is definitely ruined and I will need to replace it. I was planning to use some leftover tape I have from fixing iPhone digitizers so I didn't even attempt to salvage the existing tape. Not sure if it's even possible to salvage that tape considering you need to stick some kind of tool in there to separate it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright thanks I have to go and don't know when I'll be back, but I will try it tonight and hopefully I don't break anything...
Thanks for the help!

LCD and Digitizer problems

Hey guys,
Just got a HTC espresso off my mate. Anyway he said it had problems (lc not working and digitiser not working) So I was just wondering is anyone else having the same possible hardware issue. And if you have fixed it how did you?
Thanks
Sent from my HTC Sensation using XDA
LMAO. Happy "first post"
Anyway, you'll require a new LCD Flex and possibly a new motherboard connector. Buy a T5 and have a look inside; see what's wrong.
Just to let you know, if it operates, it doesn't have a fully damaged LCD/Digitizer...
Sent from my iPhone 3GS via Tapatalk
Thanks man. When I get the screw driver do you think you'd be able to give me a hand in showing what I need to do?
Sent from my HTC Sensation using XDA
technotram91 said:
Thanks man. When I get the screw driver do you think you'd be able to give me a hand in showing what I need to do?
Sent from my HTC Sensation using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's easy enough. Pop the battery out, unscrew 3-4 T5 screws and lift the housing off, and work from there.
Sent from the hatred of all; iPhone 3GS, via Tapatalk
Thanks man ill let you know if I need more help
Sent from my HTC Sensation using XDA
No problems.
Sent from the hatred of all; iPhone 3GS, via Tapatalk
I've had similar issues - phone worked with black screen. I've bought a spare flex ribbon cable on the eBay.
You'll need to remove the back cover, battery, memory card. Then unscrew 4 T and 2 phillips (+) screws. Use plastic card and a usual (-) screwdriver to detach back frame and you'll see the mainboard. Remove it and you'll see 8 philips screws that holds both sliding parts together. Unscrew them and detach the front half with the screen. Then remove 2 plastic patches from the sides of it - you'll see 4 more screws that hold the front part. Unscrew them and carefully pop the parts with a plastic cards. That's basically all. Then you'll be able to connect the new cable and put all the things together in reverse order.
Saem persun said:
I've had similar issues - phone worked with black screen. I've bought a spare flex ribbon cable on the eBay.
You'll need to remove the back cover, battery, memory card. Then unscrew 4 T and 2 phillips (+) screws. Use plastic card and a usual (-) screwdriver to detach back frame and you'll see the mainboard. Remove it and you'll see 8 philips screws that holds both sliding parts together. Unscrew them and detach the front half with the screen. Then remove 2 plastic patches from the sides of it - you'll see 4 more screws that hold the front part. Unscrew them and carefully pop the parts with a plastic cards. That's basically all. Then you'll be able to connect the new cable and put all the things together in reverse order.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know I'm popping in techno's place, but how much did the cable cost?
Also, we met up the other day (he's local) and found the volume buttons and the touchscreen itself didn't work. What will we need? So far I've got:
•Torx T5 Screwdriver
•Phillips Head Screwdriver
•Flathead Screedriver
•A Fully **** MyTouch 3G Slide
Sent from the hatred of all; iPhone 3GS, via Tapatalk
CJJames said:
I know I'm popping in techno's place, but how much did the cable cost?
Also, we met up the other day (he's local) and found the volume buttons and the touchscreen itself didn't work. What will we need? So far I've got:
•Torx T5 Screwdriver
•Phillips Head Screwdriver
•Flathead Screedriver
•A Fully **** MyTouch 3G Slide
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The cable was $10 plus free shipping from HK. There's a lot of them there available (just "put flex ribbon cable mytouch 3g slide" to the search - I don't have 10 posts yet so I can't make a direct link).
The volume keys contacts are attached to the mainboard with a small flex cable, which you don't really need to detach. Everything you'll need is just to put them into the place under the rocker button when assemblying, and if they are not broken they should work. If someone ever opened your phone, he could forget/missed this operation and probably that's why they are not working.
About the tools: it would be nice if you have screwdrivers of different size. Although I didn't have a torx screwdriver and managed to fix the phone using a flathead screwdriver of corresponding size.
One more thing: the cable has a metal plate. It has the light sensor and green/red LED and goes to the top of the front plate. You'll also need to put a small rubber spacer from the old cable to the new one.
In general it wasn't a complicated procedure - just be careful, don't shuffle different screws together and you'll succeed
Saem persun said:
The cable was $10 plus free shipping from HK. There's a lot of them there available (just "put flex ribbon cable mytouch 3g slide" to the search - I don't have 10 posts yet so I can't make a direct link).
The volume keys contacts are attached to the mainboard with a small flex cable, which you don't really need to detach. Everything you'll need is just to put them into the place under the rocker button when assemblying, and if they are not broken they should work. If someone ever opened your phone, he could forget/missed this operation and probably that's why they are not working.
About the tools: it would be nice if you have screwdrivers of different size. Although I didn't have a torx screwdriver and managed to fix the phone using a flathead screwdriver of corresponding size.
One more thing: the cable has a metal plate. It has the light sensor and green/red LED and goes to the top of the front plate. You'll also need to put a small rubber spacer from the old cable to the new one.
In general it wasn't a complicated procedure - just be careful, don't shuffle different screws together and you'll succeed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright mad
Thanks a ****load for your help haven't fixed a phone since my HD2 haha. Slide phones tend to be assholes.
The previous owner, [i{Looking4Trouble[/i], said he had opened the phone once before he shipped to technotram91, and yeah I was the middleman lol.
Off to the fleabay it is
Sent from the hatred of all; iPhone 3GS, via Tapatalk
Hope that this information will be helpful in such cases: I've found some repair guides with pics and videos:
HTC T-Mobile MyTouch 3G Slide Disassembly Repair Guide
HTC MyTouch 3G Slide Speaker Replacement Guide
I replaced the LCD Screen and Digitize and still have a blank screen, the phone turns on, I get the TMO Jingle, the back light works on the keyboard and home keys, and I get a flashing green LED at the top. So could the ribbon cable be bad?? or is there anything else I can do first before buying the cable.
Any and all information will be greatly appreciated.

Wireless charging solved

This makes the phone much more enjoyable. Take a look.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQ-KUgDNrwM
Whole phone
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vMWgaSfwSrI
You keep posting links to this video, but is there a step by step guide for this method? Looks awesome BTW. I found guides using wire and using the copper tape on the Nexus, but none that put it all together for this phone. I have several touchstone and my Palm Pre back, but am going to try the Pixie back.
Thanks so much! The pixi back is best because the positive and negatives line up with the phones positive and negative. The pres back has the negative on top so its more difficult.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQ-KUgDNrwM
Whole phone
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vMWgaSfwSrI
I saw your posts/videos over in the international thread. Finally got my stuff in yesterday to try this out and got it all working today. So far the touchstone seems to work great and there is only very minimal bulge showing in the back (small enough that unless you point it out most people wouldn't notice it)
Great job. Any pics? You live so close to me. Lol
Here are some pictures.
As you can see there is almost no bulge. It can only really be seen when reflecting light off the back's glossy surface.
I used the pixi coil and some copper tape. The hardest part was getting the proper placement of the contact points.
<facepalm>
I was just going to post how my NFC stopped working after I did this but just found that NFC got turned off on my old GS2 (only other NFC device I have to test with)
Turned it back on and everything works....
</facepalm>
so is there a how to or a site you can buy the modded back covers or something other then pics?
would be nice to let everyone know.
So sorry blownco as there is no tutorial as i did not personal mod my phone. I bought a spare cover that i will try and mod myself as soon as i receive my rare earth batteries.
Pmentior greay job with the mod. Looks so clean too!
BLOWNCO said:
so is there a how to or a site you can buy the modded back covers or something other then pics?
would be nice to let everyone know.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
**Update**
I have removed this mod temporarily as I was have some issues with the connection between my pixi coil and the copper tape. I should have this fixed in the next couple of days. Use the following steps as a frame work for your own mod not as a comprehensive guide!
**Update 2**
I have redone my mod and have updated this posted with new or modified steps.
My new build adds a little more bulge due to using a shot section of soldered wire.
There isn't really all that much to it.
Material needed:
Galaxy S3 (obviously)]
Palm Touchstone - I got the kit that includes the power supply and usb cord because some people have been having trouble with using other cords
Palm Pixi Touchstone Back
Copper Tape
Soldering Iron
Other Materials:
Double Sided Tape
Electrical Tape
Steps:
1) Peels the Coil out of the Pixi Back
After you get the black sticker off you will see all the pieces of the coil still stuck to the Pixi Back.
The 4 small metal disks spaced around the coil are important so move them too.
Carefully remove all these pieces and reassemble them back onto the black sticker
Tip) I used the touchstone base (Unplugged!) to help align the metal disks correctly. This helped the magnetic attachment between the phone and the dock. Just reassemble the coil assemble on the touchstone dock and the magnets in the dock pull the disk into the correct place on its own.
2) The copper tape is used to 'move' the leads on the Pixi back to the correct position so they line up with the contact points of the GS3
Don't let the 2 leads touch each other!
You need to add a little cushion under the ends of the copper tape so they connect properly.
3) Required step:The contact between the original pixi contact point and the copper tape needs to be soldered to maintain the connection.
Note) I had trouble getting the copper tape soldered directly to the pixi contact point. I used a small wire to connect the pixi contact with my new copper tape contacts. The wire was scavanged from an old extra USB cord I had laying around.
4) Use some electrical tape to cover the soldering points to make it look nice and to reduce risk of shorting.
5) Put the GS3 back back on and check the fit then place the GS3 on the touchstone and see if it works.
6) Adjust positioning if needed.
**edit**
I just went off the pictures/videos stu5797 has posted.
I may have missed something as I wrote this from memory of what I did. The mod was a lot of trial an error as I only went off of a few pictures.
What did you use to make the bumps for the contacts?
I just used a little bit of wadded up electrical tape underneath the copper foil. So far that part at least has made consistent contact.
I have been have trouble with the connection between the coil and the copper tape (this connection is under some black electrical tape in my picture, not the part that has the cushion under it.)and need to work on that the next few days. It will probably be solved with a bit of soldering (no modification will be done to the main part of the phone only the back cover and will be fully reversible) as I was too lazy to do it that way the first time.
i'm hoping that somewhere deep within China some eager little entrepreneur is making a cheap back cover that has the contacts already in it and they will appear on Ebay shortly.
Don't really want to wait until September for the Samsung and the thought of rigging it myself with tape and thin wires makes me nervous.. i take the back cover off too often to change out batteries and figure eventually i'd cross the wires and maybe ruin the phone.
Just ordered a pixi back and touchstone for about 8/9 bucks shipped on Amazon.
Unfortunately soldering is needed on the pixi back with copper tape to give the phone a constant great charge. Dont forget to get magnets and copper tape
I was hoping to avoid soldering with my first install. It work great for a while but then started to lose connection. I figured that I was probably going to have to solder it so I ordered 2 pixi backs to begin with in-case I screwed one up.
I don't think adding more magnets are really a good idea. Adding them to the phone will probably mess with the compass pretty badly. The touchstone system has the mags built into the base and just some metal pieces in the phone. If I can find something to replace the tiny metal disks in the cover though it should help keeping the phone onto the dock.

Knocked off ground connector from phone board, need advice on how to best reattach it

In the process of fixing my phone I accidentally knocked off this little metal bit that I believe is for grounding since it seem to contact a metal plate attached to the plastic upper bit that doesn't seem to go anywhere else. Its a really tiny thing and I'm trying to decide how to best reattach it. I found someone on ifixit that posted a similar problem back in 2018, but with no solution (I posted there first but I guess cause its old no one is responding). He took some good photos, so I'll share his post: https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/476452/Component+broke+off+of+board,+is+it+necessary
The one I broke off is the one on the left. I'll attach to this a photo of my device with a macro shot I took of the area where it came off.
It looks like it was making contact through 4 tiny holes. I was thinking of maybe trying to flow a little bit of solder into their and then reattaching the metal bit with glue.
On the otherhand, is it pointless? I haven't tried putting the phone back together yet to determine what this effects or do I know if these ground points have redundant ground points else where.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

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