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[GUIDE] Xperia Arc Disassembly

EDIT
"meyourchum" has provded a link to get offical disassembly instruction with lot more information.
Check it for yourself
Hello folks,
I had a chance to work on my friends arc who bought a Rogers version and dropped it. He had it totally mess on the case and needed the full housing replacement.
I hope that doesn't happen to anyone. I didn't take any photos but I am trying to explain everything as it was to help anyone with this.
General Note:
- Anywhere you got stuck, watch some X10 Disassembly video
- Be very gentle to your phone in this process
- Besides all the screws the rest of the phone is put together with glue(Sticky Back) and snap(plastic for main board)
- Using this information on your own risk as I don't take any responsibility if anything happens to your phone.
Instruction
1) Remove the back battery cover. Thats the easiest part
2) Need star shaped screw driver[Trox](I bought the set for $5) there are 4 screws like that and two which opens with phillips screwdriver(tiny) This is what I bought
All the above we all have seen them
3) After removing the 6 screws remove the front fascia of the phone with a guitar picks, something skinny but sturdy*
* I recommend not using anything other than rubber or plastic in the whole process.
4) Main board is snapped in with plastic to the body which easily can be opened.
5) Little board on the bottom is glued(sticky back @ top) which you can remove with pulling little hard but make sure you don't break it.
6) Majority of the wire you see connected to mainboard can be discounted (snap in wires)
7) Removing the screen: from outside of the phone (like you are looking directly to screen like you normally do) you need to put something under neat and raise up the screen. This part has glue as well and its hard to lift but I did it and it should be possible.
8) if you are doing a full housing replacement, then there are stuff here and there that you need to remove and re-use it on the new housing(Like 3.5 mm jack, HDMI lid, etc.)
Good Luck and let me know if you have any questions.

1st time... ehm.. taking the Arc apart, that is!
Helluw there
Just read your post, and thought I wanted to share with you, that I might be opening one of these slick little things. My friend broke his display, and the ISP is talking about some 'off the scale' repair prizes.
...So, he asked me to do the job
Told him I didn't have any experience on the disassembling of this phonetype, but he trusts me it seems
I might return with some questions in case of problems, is that OK with you Nimche?
Greetingz

Hope u have the courage to make a video next time
Sent from my Arc using XDA premium App

xelion said:
Helluw there
Just read your post, and thought I wanted to share with you, that I might be opening one of these slick little things. My friend broke his display, and the ISP is talking about some 'off the scale' repair prizes.
...So, he asked me to do the job
Told him I didn't have any experience on the disassembling of this phonetype, but he trusts me it seems
I might return with some questions in case of problems, is that OK with you Nimche?
Greetingz
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, no problem. I would be more than happy to answer. Lets see just some general stuff...
Note: anywhere you got stuck, watch some X10 Disassembly video
Note: be very gentle to your phone in this process
- you remove the back battery cover. Thats the easiest part
- you need that star shaped screw driver(I bought the set for $5) there are 4 screws like that and two which opens with phillips screwdriver(tiny)
All the above we all have seen them
after removing the 6 screws
note: besides all the screws the rest of the phone is put together with glue and snap(plastic for main board)
- remove the front fascia of the phone with a guitar picks, something skinny but sturdy*
* I recommend not using anything other than rubber or plastic in the whole process.
- main board is snapped in with plastic to the body which easily can be opened. I change full housing and not sure if you have to remove the hard key button from the bottom end of the phone too or not but that little board on the bottom is glue which you can remove with pulling little hard but make sure you don't break it.
- All the wire you see connected to mainboard can be discounted (snap in wires)
- There is a big one which goes to the screen you have to dis-attach that before removing the screen
- Removing the screen: from outside of the phone (like you are looking directly to screen like you normally do) you need to put something under neat and raise up the screen. This part has glue as well and its hard to lift but I did it and it should be possible.
Good Luck and let me know if you have any questions.

Can you answer this??? It get's hot here (and also in the same spot on the front.. so what's inside at this point??

CPU is right behind the second cover. I wish I could take some photos.

Nimche said:
CPU is right behind the second cover. I wish I could take some photos.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the clarification. I was also suspecting since this area gets damn hot when playing games and even at charging (sometimes).
So seems like they move the CPU from behind the battery in X10 to near to the camera in Arc .

Can I change only the front faceplate around the screen without removing the mainboard? How easy would that be? I want to change mine to Misty Silver as Rogers only carry the Midnight Blue.
Also, for glued parts, do I have to glue them back on the new housing?

hellocng said:
Can I change only the front faceplate around the screen without removing the mainboard? How easy would that be? I want to change mine to Misty Silver as Rogers only carry the Midnight Blue.
Also, for glued parts, do I have to glue them back on the new housing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glue part, they are more sticky than glued. You just simply stick it back where it was.
Where is the silver face you found?
This is retarded from them...
Digitizer and screen(one part) are sticked to the front face. In order to for your to change the faceplate only(front) you may have to go through the whole process because the wires from digitizer are going through a big hole to the main board. You don't want to mess around with $700 or $800.
Inside, everything is small. really small. I thought I totally screwed up the whole thing. Technology has gone forward alot since I was a kid putting radio together.
Good Luck

prathaban said:
Thanks for the clarification. I was also suspecting since this area gets damn hot when playing games and even at charging (sometimes).
So seems like they move the CPU from behind the battery in X10 to near to the camera in Arc .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, there are two board one above battery and one below batter @ bottom of the phone
On top is the main board
on bottom is the board for hard keys.
Nicely put together but they could have done a better job there....

Are there three parts to the housing? I assume there is the front plate, middle housing with the chrome, and the battery cover. The mainboard should be in the middle with the chrome. So I can't just detach the screen front the front plate? What is holding the three pieces of housing together? The six screws?
There are silver housings on eBay from time to time. Though, blue is a lot more common.

Three pieces. Back battery cover which is nothing.
Then there are two main pieces.
Chrome which is more like a holder of the fascia.
If I remember correctly, the front Fascia is the one holding all the board on it including that metal look piece(aluminum probably)
I will take photos and upload here...

Uploaded photos to the first post...

Hey, I'm looking to replace the chrome piece which has a few nasty chips in it, after removing the second back cover, how easy is it to take off that chrome piece?

Great post

How can I replace digitizer? I dropped my phone and the glass cracked

anyone know where i can get the tiny screw driver? I cant seem to find the correct one. they are either too small or too big.

how easy is it to replace the front cover, ive cracked the top of it and chipped a bit out the side (surrounding the screen) i presume it'd be simple enough. And does anyone know where i can get a good quality/genuine front cover replacement?

soldiers33 said:
anyone know where i can get the tiny screw driver? I cant seem to find the correct one. they are either too small or too big.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, you could have sent a private message.
I bought the screw driver here at local tool shop. Home Depot sells them.
Its called Trox Screw Driver and I bought exactly this one http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=100087664&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_sku=100087664&ci_kw={keyword}&cm_mmc=shopping-_-googleads-_-pla-_-100087664&ci_gpa=pla&locStoreNum=618
I don't have the packaging but they should be standard.
Good Luck

mps83 said:
how easy is it to replace the front cover, ive cracked the top of it and chipped a bit out the side (surrounding the screen) i presume it'd be simple enough. And does anyone know where i can get a good quality/genuine front cover replacement?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can find the whole housing between $30 to $40 but the front cover is that actual main piece that holds all the internal components + the screen.
If the crack doesn't bug you much, I would not do it since you have to replace the sticker behind you battery as well, which is not easy to peel off + you have to take the screen off the old front fascia which is glued and kind of hard to take off.
Downside of the whole thing for me was the sticker. I have to find an alternative for this problem.

Repair HD2, now trouble assembling?

I recently tried repairing a friends HD2, because he had a smashed screen.
I bought the new screen and some 2mm double sided tape. Took the phone apart, and managed to see the lcd was damaged also. Bought one of those then taped the new screen and lcd together using the tape.
The inner chassis had all the old tape on it still, so I bought a new inner chassis. Waited for it, then stuck the new lcd / digitizer to it. The button end didnt seem to stick down that well - even with the new chassis, with the buttons wanting to drop out, and them not sitting out of the screen like they should.
I thought it must be due to the phone only partially assembled, so went ahead and installed the rest of the phone.
Now its together the button end of the phone wont sit in the shell properly and the buttons seem to be lower than they should...
How am i supposed to get this inner chassis to stick properly, and are there any tips or vids to show how its supposed to sit?
thanks.

maybe this video can help you with assembling your phone.
Search on youtube for t8Q7mXdcJ54.

Ive watched that video numerous times, and its a little misleading as to how much is required. Extra tape in places that had to be cut and removed, labels not sticking back down like they do in the video etc.
Im after information as to how people stuck the lcd/digitizer to the inner chassis. I used a new inner chassis with tape pre applied, and it still didnt seem to stick the two things together enough. When you stick the chassis (with lcd/digitizer) into the outer case, it doesnt sit into the case enough, and the buttons are not sitting right.

If u have purchased lcd with digitizer,u could look for flat cable that connects from lcd to mbo,maybe u need to form it.buttons have points to allign,but u need to center both sides in micrometer to function normal.lcd/digitizer frame must have black tape on edges.
Sent from my Milestone using Tapatalk

kew1701 said:
If u have purchased lcd with digitizer,u could look for flat cable that connects from lcd to mbo,maybe u need to form it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please explain? Not sure what u mean by "form it"
buttons have points to allign,but u need to center both sides in micrometer to function normal.lcd/digitizer frame must have black tape on edges.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
done this and still no luck

I have the same problem like foney!
See this:
argh, i can't post my photos! how to do it now, i don't have 8 posts yet!
I've used "3M 300LSE" as a profesional doublesided tape i thought and also put a 2mm stripe below the keyboard, but the display is not really fixed onto the chassi around the keyboard and the keys also can't be used really, because they are maybe not correct centered onto the keyboard circuit board. i've been using the assembly video from htc, but there it's not mentionend very well, how to do it right.

foney said:
Please explain? Not sure what u mean by "form it"
Maybe it need curved angle to 100% fit
done this and still no luck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm,last thing i can think is that lcd/digitizer is not properly glued/taped.Did u put pressure for few hours on lcd/digitizer and middle frame?

it is taped on around the lcd using 2mm 3M double sided tape. The chassis i bought new, with tape included. When you stick the lcd/digi to the chassis, it appears that the button end, as l0rdius mentioned, isnt stuck down enough.
The video has the guy "magically" sticking it all together and all going together as it should, but doesnt show any real detail, like showing how things go together to fit properly.
edit/ pulled the phone apart again, and its definitely a case of the tape on the chassis near the buttons not sticking correctly. Ive wrapped it in rubber bands, and used some wooden clothes pegs to try to secure the two better. If it doesnt stick, then I may have to use something stronger than tape, like Tarzans Grip

I've found another thread, in which "profahmad" posted some hints:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=640328&page=8
Today i've ordered some more 3M 300LSE and want to take a new try on weekend with these hints. Hope i get the display better glued to the chassis and the buttons correctly justified.
Whats about the sticker under the battery. do you guys have problems reassembling it again and again? Or how do you handle it?

l0rdius said:
I've found another thread, in which "profahmad" posted some hints:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=640328&page=8
Whats about the sticker under the battery. do you guys have problems reassembling it again and again? Or how do you handle it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im using glue like in the link if applying pressure for a day or two doesnt work.
I applied a little double sided tape under it, then when i left the phone for a few days with the battery in it seemed to stick down fairly well. Not like factory new, but good enough.

Replacing Touch Digitizer fix NonResponsive Screen?

Hey everyone my HTC HD2 got the Non-Responsive screen problem a week ago, & did a lot of research and found out that it was most likely a hardware problem with a cable..... So a lot of people would tell the people with the problem that the "Touch Screen Digitizer" is dead (like the cable), or it needs to be cleaned... pretty well go out and buy a new one... BUT I have never found evidence that someone has done this and it has successfully "cured" their HTC HD2 Non-Responsive touch screen problem...
So I was looking for anyone on the forums that could confirm this is a solution or give me any tips on what I should do.... AND no I don't have enough money to get a new phone, nor do I live in the USA so I can't send it in to fix it...
This is what I was going to buy for it:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-OEM-HTC-...781?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519a3d2e45
Thanks for taking the time to read my Thread, its much appreciated!! I hope I can find a fix!!
PS: If anyone wanted to know what it looks like out of curiosity I posted 3 pictures with RED circle HIGHLIGHTING the problem when I try to touch something....

My digitizer has been a bit dodgy for the past few months. It's ironic that when I finally found out what the issue was and called HTC, my factory warranty had ended exactly 4 days prior to the call.
Fast forward 3 months and my phone has now been unresponsive for 3 hours despite my prying and tweaking various hard parts.
I disassembled the phone down to the main board just to see how hard the install is, but it's a bit intimidating once it's time to start pulling all the film and ribbons. A bit too tight and small parts for my liking.
Time to hit CL to see if I can find a cheap replacement.
Good luck with your repairs. I may be following in your footsteps if I can not find a good deal.

Yeah I will see how well it goes... if anyone has useful info, i will be more than grad to hear it
Thanks

Many people attempt to replace a digitizer, but I simply don't recommend it, we see enough of do-it-yourselvers who created problems in addition to the original ones.
What I do recommend, however, and I stated it on many threads already, is to get an LCD+DIGITIZER assembly. Simply because it is easier to fit. Not saying the overall fitting is easy, always depends on your overall skill, so ensure that you are familiar with the procedure BEFORE you begin. But you will save yourself a lot of trouble by getting the whole thing, as opposed to the digitizer only for the sake of a few bucks.
However, if anyone still feels intimidated by the whole thing, I am on the lookout for working main board. Advertised a few times in the marketplace with limited success. So if anyone smashed their baby and will be looking to replace, rather than repair - drop me a PM. I am in NZ. Will pay by Paypal.

Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!

cheeselump said:
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How much did the set cost?

cheeselump said:
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks I will check it out, hopefully it won't be to hard and I hope I can repair it!! oh and could you post a link of the youtube & manual you used to replace your screen?? Thanks
Oh would anyone suggest then just calling HTC and sending it to them to repair?? or does that cost to much??
Thanks everyone for the help

One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.

GnatGoSplat said:
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yah I was looking at the video's and they were taking off EVERYTHING... it looks really hard to do.. I don't know whether I want to do it anymore.....
oh and are you talking about the digitizer itself or the LCD+digitizer for your method?
Thanks

Heronization said:
Yah I was looking at the video's and they were taking off EVERYTHING... it looks really hard to do.. I don't know whether I want to do it anymore.....
oh and are you talking about the digitizer itself or the LCD+digitizer for your method?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, there is absolutely no reason to take off everything like some people seem to think is necessary.
The way I'm talking about requires removing LCD+digitizer. In fact, I think you'll always have to remove both because the connector for the digitizer is under the LCD. Anyway, the way I did it, I went from removing the the phone insides from the rear housing straight to separating the LCD+digitizer assembly from the frame. No removal of any boards or flex cables. The only cable to be disconnected is the LCD+digitizer assembly one. Getting it disconnected and reconnected does require unplugging the front button flex and removing the screws for the bottom logic board to loosen it, but that's all.

GnatGoSplat said:
Yep, there is absolutely no reason to take off everything like some people seem to think is necessary.
The way I'm talking about requires removing LCD+digitizer. In fact, I think you'll always have to remove both because the connector for the digitizer is under the LCD. Anyway, the way I did it, I went from removing the the phone insides from the rear housing straight to separating the LCD+digitizer assembly from the frame. No removal of any boards or flex cables. The only cable to be disconnected is the LCD+digitizer assembly one. Getting it disconnected and reconnected does require unplugging the front button flex and removing the screws for the bottom logic board to loosen it, but that's all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow that sounds pretty simple! and for you it all works perfectly now?? no calibration needed or problems?? Maybe I will try it after all..... but what screw drivers to I need to dissemble it?? the screws look different from normal..

Heronization said:
Wow that sounds pretty simple! and for you it all works perfectly now?? no calibration needed or problems?? Maybe I will try it after all..... but what screw drivers to I need to dissemble it?? the screws look different from normal..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, it's not that simple because simply getting the HD2 insides out of the rear housing is difficult if you've never done it before. I believe the screwdriver you need is a Torx T-5. Once you get the screws out, you will need a plastic opening tool to go between the digitizer and rear housing frame. They look like this:
http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Plastic-Opening-Tools/IF145-000
I found it comes out much easier if I use the tool to make a gap along the top edge and then slide the entire end of a scrap credit card into that gap, then that makes the whole assembly easier to pry out along the sides with the tool. I know on one of the vids, the guy takes forever doing this part and I can understand why, but once I figured out sliding a credit card into the top gap as far as it would go, I was able to get it apart much easier.
I can't answer whether the phone will work properly, because I just ordered the new digitizer over the weekend and haven't put it back together. I did remove the LCD+digitizer assembly and then re-connected it and put it back, then powered on the phone just to make sure pulling the LCD didn't hurt it - it didn't, everything worked as well as it did before. I did manage to crack the digitizer more when I tried to get the insides out of the rear housing before I figured out the credit card trick, so fortunately I was not trying to save my digitizer as it was already cracked. If you are just wanting to try to clean or fiddle with the connection, then you're going to have to be a LOT more careful than I was because it was all too easy to crack the digitizer!
I'm guessing yours probably needs replacement though. I sent my HTC Surround in for a funny acting digitizer, and the digitizer was replaced.
Oh, and if I would have bought an LCD+digitizer pre-assembled unit, that would have been super easy to replace. However, I opted to save $50+ by buying just the digitizer. Not too sure how I'm going to prevent dust getting in it, and I've read thickness of the adhesive is critical. I may regret it later!

GnatGoSplat said:
Well, it's not that simple because simply getting the HD2 insides out of the rear housing is difficult if you've never done it before. I believe the screwdriver you need is a Torx T-5. Once you get the screws out, you will need a plastic opening tool to go between the digitizer and rear housing frame. They look like this:
http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Plastic-Opening-Tools/IF145-000
I found it comes out much easier if I use the tool to make a gap along the top edge and then slide the entire end of a scrap credit card into that gap, then that makes the whole assembly easier to pry out along the sides with the tool. I know on one of the vids, the guy takes forever doing this part and I can understand why, but once I figured out sliding a credit card into the top gap as far as it would go, I was able to get it apart much easier.
I can't answer whether the phone will work properly, because I just ordered the new digitizer over the weekend and haven't put it back together. I did remove the LCD+digitizer assembly and then re-connected it and put it back, then powered on the phone just to make sure pulling the LCD didn't hurt it - it didn't, everything worked as well as it did before. I did manage to crack the digitizer more when I tried to get the insides out of the rear housing before I figured out the credit card trick, so fortunately I was not trying to save my digitizer as it was already cracked. If you are just wanting to try to clean or fiddle with the connection, then you're going to have to be a LOT more careful than I was because it was all too easy to crack the digitizer!
I'm guessing yours probably needs replacement though. I sent my HTC Surround in for a funny acting digitizer, and the digitizer was replaced.
Oh, and if I would have bought an LCD+digitizer pre-assembled unit, that would have been super easy to replace. However, I opted to save $50+ by buying just the digitizer. Not too sure how I'm going to prevent dust getting in it, and I've read thickness of the adhesive is critical. I may regret it later!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok thanks I think thats what I am going to do, first dissemble it then try to move the cable around because, just yesterday it started to work again and then today it isn't working. I will contact you if I have a problem or get stuck, if that is ok with you
Thanks a lot

Heronization said:
Ok thanks I think thats what I am going to do, first dissemble it then try to move the cable around because, just yesterday it started to work again and then today it isn't working. I will contact you if I have a problem or get stuck, if that is ok with you
Thanks a lot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, no prob. I can post a pic of the digitizer lifted from the frame which shows where the adhesive tapes are that you have to go through, if it would help.

GnatGoSplat said:
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey lolz I need your help already, I just took off the back housing and now Im lost on what to do... It looks to me as if you do have to remove the cables from the motherboard to get to it?? and what is the double sided tape? and isn't everything connected to the lcd?? lolz this is my first time doing any phone disassemble.. Thanks
added a picture of what I was thinking of doing... or am I doing this all wrong... because you did say we don't need to remove any flex cable or wires and stuff
Thanks!!

Heronization said:
Hey lolz I need your help already, I just took off the back housing and now Im lost on what to do... It looks to me as if you do have to remove the cables from the motherboard to get to it?? and what is the double sided tape? and isn't everything connected to the lcd?? lolz this is my first time doing any phone disassemble.. Thanks
added a picture of what I was thinking of doing... or am I doing this all wrong... because you did say we don't need to remove any flex cable or wires and stuff
Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, I didn't disconnect anything except the circled connector on the far right of your picture. You will need to do that to remove the LCD flex cable from the logic board.
I've attached a pic of the LCD module loosened from the frame. What you do is use something thin and flat to separate the adhesive tape holding the LCD to the frame. You will need to lift some of that black fabric tape on the edge to see where the LCD module meets the frame. Near the top, you will probably have to slide your separating tool all the way through to separate the tape (I used a scrap credit card). Avoid the area where the LCD flex cable is, because you could damage it! It's on the lower right of the LCD if you are looking from the front. When the LCD is loose, lift up from left to right (when LCD is facing you), pretending that there is a hinge on the right side. This is because you don't want to put any force on the LCD flex.
Once you've got your phone looking like my picture, you can remove the "captain" (orange tape), unlatch the LCD flex from the top, remove the button flex from its connector, then loosen the bottom logic board from the frame just enough to pull the flex out of the connector.
I hope that makes sense! It probably helps to know that a very strong double-sided sticky tape is all that holds the LCD+digitizer assembly to the frame, and there is only one flex cable connecting LCD+digitizer assembly to the rest of the phone.

GnatGoSplat said:
Nope, I didn't disconnect anything except the circled connector on the far right of your picture. You will need to do that to remove the LCD flex cable from the logic board.
I've attached a pic of the LCD module loosened from the frame. What you do is use something thin and flat to separate the adhesive tape holding the LCD to the frame. You will need to lift some of that black fabric tape on the edge to see where the LCD module meets the frame. Near the top, you will probably have to slide your separating tool all the way through to separate the tape (I used a scrap credit card). Avoid the area where the LCD flex cable is, because you could damage it! It's on the lower right of the LCD if you are looking from the front. When the LCD is loose, lift up from left to right (when LCD is facing you), pretending that there is a hinge on the right side. This is because you don't want to put any force on the LCD flex.
Once you've got your phone looking like my picture, you can remove the "captain" (orange tape), unlatch the LCD flex from the top, remove the button flex from its connector, then loosen the bottom logic board from the frame just enough to pull the flex out of the connector.
I hope that makes sense! It probably helps to know that a very strong double-sided sticky tape is all that holds the LCD+digitizer assembly to the frame, and there is only one flex cable connecting LCD+digitizer assembly to the rest of the phone.
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Click to collapse
Awesome I will try it now, I do need to heat the screen some for the tape to get sticky so I can pry it off right?? and I am guessing once you have removed that tape you can't "just stick it back on together and it will work right?? right??

Heronization said:
Awesome I will try it now, I do need to heat the screen some for the tape to get sticky so I can pry it off right?? and I am guessing once you have removed that tape you can't "just stick it back on together and it will work right?? right??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could try heating; I didn't, but maybe it will come apart easier if you do. In the HTC factory service video, they mentioned putting the whole phone into the oven to loosen the tape. I didn't know if it would be a good idea to do that complete with all the circuit boards or not.
No, without heat, the tape is definitely ruined and I will need to replace it. I was planning to use some leftover tape I have from fixing iPhone digitizers so I didn't even attempt to salvage the existing tape. Not sure if it's even possible to salvage that tape considering you need to stick some kind of tool in there to separate it.

GnatGoSplat said:
You could try heating; I didn't, but maybe it will come apart easier if you do. In the HTC factory service video, they mentioned putting the whole phone into the oven to loosen the tape. I didn't know if it would be a good idea to do that complete with all the circuit boards or not.
No, without heat, the tape is definitely ruined and I will need to replace it. I was planning to use some leftover tape I have from fixing iPhone digitizers so I didn't even attempt to salvage the existing tape. Not sure if it's even possible to salvage that tape considering you need to stick some kind of tool in there to separate it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright thanks I have to go and don't know when I'll be back, but I will try it tonight and hopefully I don't break anything...
Thanks for the help!

Shattered screen

I just got a new (my second) hd2 and sombody bumped into me at a restaraunt and....yeah i think you all know where this is headed. Anyways i ordered a new digitizer today and the necessary tools to dis/reassemble it. Has anyone attempted this succesfully. I know i purchased the non solder version as my hd2 is for tmous. Im worried its over my head but i dont want to chicken out and have to pay some a$$ an outrageous amount of money to do it for me. Any help will be appreciated thanks! ps ive watched every youtube video i can find and looked at a ton of pics, so im not totally in the dark lol, just wanted some real world advice.
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Anyone?
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Put simply it is not the easiest.
most people will break the LCD either from prying the back cover or during LCD Digi separation.
personally I go for LCD Digi combo (300 type) pre assembled & drop it in. About 25bucks more expensive but no issues with wrong Digi casing depth, button alignment dust ect.
the 3M tape method is far from the best really as bonding surface width is not wide enough.
Badly bonded screen allow dust entry & are more easily broken as good & full perimeter bonding increases strength & absorbs impacts more evenly.
I have done Digi remounting with a tack bonder uhu40 applied finely via syringe & allowed to cure slightly prior to assembly, gives a dust proof finish & allows original Digi to cover hight but takes time to do well & get digi alignment correct.
The top tip is simply be gentle, volume button is easily damaged & the screen connector on the mainboard is easily damaged.
It is possible to do screen without fully lifting the flex board & stripping all wires as seen in most vids.
I recommend peeling build label then peeling flex board, build label comes up quite easily then you can see exactly what is happening to flexboard & thus prevent possible damage.
If you buy full LCD/Digi assembly & take care the result & finish can be perfect or better if upgrading from a 295 assembly.
If going just Digi end result really depends on how well you bond Digi to LCD.
Bench testing new assembly with main & flexboard running on battery & button pad held in place with a little tape is a good idea before final build.
Also check all antenna spring legs are correctly positioned suitable for good contact with mating pads inside rear cover, failure results in low or no wifi &/or radio signal.
If you do have some natural skill with tools & engineering practices then it is not too troublesome.
Most people who have faults are all down to rough dismantling ...
Also worth mentioning the myth of the end key having the screen cable run under it; it does not, LCD finishes 2mm above end key & no LCD or Digi cables run under the end key or any of the buttons/button flexboard.
The screen flex does curl around edge of LCD above end key but is taped & not easily rubbed by endkey.
Most endkey related non responding digis to me is actually button flexboard issue.

I worked on many dumbphones between 2003-2008. After a while it became routine, even delicate phones like the Moto RAZR V6 MAXX.
The HD2 is extremely difficult, not only to replace the digitizer, but to make sure you position it right and don't leave it in such a way that dust gets under the screen. Getting it back together is not simple either since it has a number of little wires that have to be placed just so. I ended up paying some a$$ to do it for me, because it was too much.
With lots of concentration and dedication, it can be done though!

Ok thanks for the halp cancelled my order for the digi alone. And one more thing... Will a lcd/digi assembly with the "295" work on the hd2 for tmous? ive googled it and came up with mixed results. it seems the "295" is the debranded one for euro hd2s and the 300 is for US phones. I understand that the digitizers are different in that the euro one has a soldiered connectin to the lcd ribbon and the us one has a clip. BUT, will this affect anything as far as the connection to the mobo? the 295 one is cheaper but is it compatable? Much thanks!
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295 & 300 types can be swapped & 295 can be put in TMOUS although I would not go that route as the 300 type is a far better quality type of Digi & the diifference in price if any is minimal.

Found a 300 lcd/digi combo for 56.99 on ebay
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leo321 said:
Found a 300 lcd/digi combo for 56.99 on ebay
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It was actually cheaper than the 295s lol guess i overlooked it. Im liking this galaxy s2 right now B)
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Sorry to bring up my dead thread, but I was wondering if its possible to just remove the LCD+digi and pop in another one without seperating the mainbord and rigid flexboard from the metal frame? I saw a YouTube video with this type of disassembly process (removing the LCD first) but is the space between the connector and the hole in the frame large enough for it to be connected? If not I might just make the hole big enough . I don't want to have to take it completely apart... I suppose its laziness thanks!
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Not really, you need to swing the board out to release catch for ribbon cable.
To be honest removing the flexboard is quite easy if done with care & all cables running down by volume button do not need complete removal.
You can do it by not copletely removing flexboard but to me it is more awkward & could strain parts if not very carefull.

Mister B said:
Not really, you need to swing the board out to release catch for ribbon cable.
To be honest removing the flexboard is quite easy if done with care & all cables running down by volume button do not need complete removal.
You can do it by not copletely removing flexboard but to me it is more awkward & could strain parts if not very carefull.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What im saying is can I just swing the screen to the side and unhook it? Then replace it without removing anything on the other side of the frame.
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I think no as will not be able to remove caption tape & ribbon catch without swinging mainboard but have a look first.

This might help you
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=16718344&postcount=16
It worked for me when replacing my digitizer/screen though it was alittle pain to reconnect the ribbon to the motherboard its well worth it. Just have patience's

leo321 said:
What im saying is can I just swing the screen to the side and unhook it? Then replace it without removing anything on the other side of the frame.
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Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mister B is correct
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kompheak said:
Mister B is correct
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Click to collapse
+1 on this.
10 char

[Q] is that possible?a guy replaces full display (lcd+digitizer) in just 3.5 minutes!

just found a very easy way to replace the whole display in just 3 minutes by accessing it from the front side..
i am not yet allowed to post the link, but if you google this
IMPEXTROM CAMBIAR TROCAR DISPLAY HTC HD2
you will see the 3 minutes video
seems possible as there are 19 positive and just one negative vote on this video..
(my display was broken, but have worked for a year or so.
now it is frozen/ unresponsive and i have purchased a full display.)
but it seems too easy to be true ...
any hints?
thanx &cheers

That been set up for the video as you can see it been off before & the chassis the lcd is bonded to is clean of all bonding tape :-/
Also original has signal interference tape runing down sides across all 3 layers.
also if you heat the front first thing to seperate is the digi from LCD as the lcd to mid chassis is a strong bond.
Best way is popping them out of rear cover, fitting a pre built lcd/digitizer is not hard, just use quality adhesive to hold lcd to centre chassis & buy pre cut black foam tape for the top & bottom digi glass edges or rebuild is next to pointless without this done well.
I've done a good 30 odd HD2 screen & mainboards & no way I could do it to my standard via that video.

Hi Mister B - thanks a lot for your advice, i believe you are right!
but as i have never attempted to disassemble a mobile phone, is there a video tutorial how to do that properly for an absolute beginner?
as I need my phone functioning tomorrow, i'm considering to try it in the morning.

light2 said:
Hi Mister B - thanks a lot for your advice, i believe you are right!
but as i have never attempted to disassemble a mobile phone, is there a video tutorial how to do that properly for an absolute beginner?
as I need my phone functioning tomorrow, i'm considering to try it in the morning.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure if Mister B will reply in time, there is a good thread here http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1566179 with a video in post 2 else google hd2 disassembly youtube perhaps

Hi Robbie P,
Thanks a lot for the link!
Now it seems I will have to postpone this operation for a day or so, until i learn:
1) What time I would need (seems about 2h for a beginner)
2) What money I would need - as I have to buy these tools- what would be a price... i guess 10-15 euros?
(BTW Finally I guess that people who published aforementioned 3.5-minutes tutorial did so not to help us, but to make us damage our smartphones, so their services would then earn more, repairing it?
As I see no other explanation...Now found another such a scam video -
just google " HTC HD2 repair, disassembly manual ")
Cheers

Have a good read of link put up by robbie p
I done a few posts in it that worth looking at as you don't need remove the flexboard & volume button & antenna cables which saves a lot of possible accidents & hassle.
Most important thing is extreme care, volume button is damaged easily if pry of back badly or with screwdriver. antenna tabs are snapped off mainboard with poor handling while separating the layers.
It easy to do but first one is never perfect unless you really pay attention.
You don't need much tools, a basic kit from ebay for about 4euros will cover you along with things you probably got already such as hairdryer & razorblades etc.
Just buy good padded tapes to fit top & bottom of digitizer & strong tape to bond lcd to centre chassis
links to some parts in the HD2 wiki >
http://forum.xda-developers.com/wiki/HTC_HD2#Fixes.2C_Hints_.26_Tips

tools
Hi Mister B!
Thanks a lot for you precious advise.
Will try to do it myself, not in a hurry, as soon as I get 3 hours spare time - hoping it would be enough.
Then I will need to install some good Android instead of the original WM6.5- but that is for another topic
My Qs:
You don't need much tools, a basic kit from ebay for about 4euros will cover you
this is what I got with my display from Ebay: Is it enough?
1 pry tool ,1T5 screwdriver and 1 T6 screwdriver.
Just buy good padded tapes to fit top & bottom of digitizer
I also got this one from Ebay: is it good? if you paste the title below into ebay.co.uk it you will see more details:
2mm Double Sided Layer Adhesive Sticky Tape Sticker for Mobile Phone Glue LCD
& strong tape to bond lcd to centre chassis
Which width, and should it also be double-sided?
Cheers

For tape you want this >
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LCDFIX-Fr...765?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1e9ebb1595
I assume you have lcd & digitizer pre-built new !?
You would be better off with couple more decent pry tools, the green ones tend be better than the blue plastic stuff.
I use 2 pry tools on top of HD2 either side of speaker grill as makes back housing removal a few second job & leaves not one mark if done right.
Only other thing you may need is tweezers & cleaning buds for old glue.
top digitizer tape need be right or blocks sensor hole or looks shabby.
Don't force the old lcd off centre chassis as if gets bent then never fit back right, warming it up with hairdryer helps ease it off.
I always have a spare button board on hand too as makes it easy bench test the lcd/digitizer hook to mainboard side by side with battery held on mainboard pins & spare button board used to power on, also good as likely find old board breaks if gone brittle.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360542084387

tools I've got
Hi Mister B!
Thanks so much for your suggestions!
Yes, I've got the full display, and only the tools as on the photo.
My few Qs:
Only other thing you may need is tweezers & cleaning buds for old glue.
Could not find plastic tweezers, only metal ones... But those cotton sticks for ears i have
I could order the LCD tape, though it seems a long wait (7-10 days) for express delivery up here, so is there an alternative?
Thanks for a link to the button board! As I guess mine is damaged, for during last few months I had to press hard on the power button to get the phone responsive again. Then even this trick stopped working.
But also due to the longer waiting to get in from China - is there a way to test and learn if i need to replace it , before starting digging into my HD2?
Cheers

I would get the lcd digi top/bottom tape kit as what you got in big roll will be no good.
all else is good.
button board is handy as ribbons go brittle so can break plus you can use it to power up the device in a pre build test with lcd/digi & mainboard laid flat side by side & new ribbon plugged in to mainboard to power on. Most stuff makes it to uk pretty quickly, quicker order - quicker get it

Well, i will then order both items today, in hope it won't take too long to deliver up here (Belgrade, Serbia).
A video tutorial with all the tricks you have suggested would be the easiest way to follow, but it seems there's no such a video - yet.
Certainly, I'am either not sure whether will be able to film my own attempt.
Mister B - thanks so much! Following your suggestions, and the topic mentioned by Robbie P - I will likely manage to do the job properly!
Cheers

If have any question during rebuild post them here & I will respond as soon as see it.
Good luck ...

Thanks!