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Disclaimer: Perform the following repairs at your own risk. This thread is for educational purposes only. You will void your warranty if you proceed. But that's implied, right?
Disassembly
Many of you will already know how troublesome sending a phone back to the manufacturer for repairs is. This is especially the case for OnePlus, whose after-sales support isn't exceptional, and compared to the price of the OPO itself, their repair costs are by no means affordable ($201 and an unknown amount of days). I've read that a number of forum members have repaired their screens themselves using parts from the internet, but it wasn't all that well documented. So as a mobile phone repairer by profession, I thought it would help a lot of people with broken screens for me to write up a detailed walkthrough/tutorial teaching them how to fix it themselves. Let's get to it!
New: a video! (credits to @stephenlotus)
Note that this guide can be used to replace any modular component; the StyleSwap cover, camera, charging port, you name it - just disassemble your phone until you reach your desired step, replace the faulty/damaged part, then re-assemble it!
Actually obtaining the replacement part? Well, that's another story
Equipment/Materials:
Precision screwdriver set (cross-head/Phillip's head, flat-head)
Sharp craft knife/Stanley knife
Plastic pry tools
Fine-tipped tweezers
Stainless steel pry tools
Thin, rigid cards/guitar picks
Hairdryer/industrial hot air gun (recommended)
Air blower (use this to clean the cameras and lenses before closing it up (not your breath))
A full screen assembly (not just the see-through glass digitizer)*
A roll (or a couple of different widths) of double-sided 3M repair tape or pre-cut 3M tape (see second post)
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*The screen can be bought from various sellers on the internet starting from about $80 for the more repair-friendly version, depending on postage and stuff. Given the exclusive nature of the OnePlus One, any seller that sells a "Genuine/Original/OEM" screen assembly is 95% guaranteed to be an original screen. It isn't profitable for third party manufacturers to produce aftermarket replacements or re-manufacture working LCDs with broken glass (glass broken but LCD still works, remove broken glass and re-laminate a new one onto it). The market is small, because most people would still prefer to RMA their phones.
Also note that this guide assumes you will be re-using the old frame/chassis. If you plan to replace it too, then you will need to remove the earpiece grille (if the new screen doesn't have it) from the old screen, and it's best to move the foam lining from the old frame to the new frame too.
I don't think I'm allowed to disclose sites that sell "original" OnePlus accessories/parts, so get Googling!
Actually, I can now. Mwahahahahaha!
You can buy the screen assembly from sites like eBay and AliExpress. I recommend getting the fully assembled screen, complete with capacitive key backlights:
www.aliexpress.com/item/for-Oneplus...zer-assembly-by-free-shipping/2022582516.html
The one without the button backlights is cheaper, but you'll have to take it from your old screen:
www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shippi...mbly-For-Oneplus-One-1-A0001/32245677673.html
Do not get the glass/digitizer only, unless you're up to the challenge, your LCD still works and you want the great savings:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Orig...or-OnePlus-One-Free-shipping/32243992827.html
Note: there's absolutely nothing wrong with my OnePlus One (well, except for very mild touchscreen issues). If I were to wait until I actually break it (which is never in a million years), I'd never get around to writing this tutorial. Your experience may vary, depending on severity of damage.
Step 1: Eject the SIM tray.
Step 2: Remove the StyleSwap cover. Using a plastic pry tool, start by lightly wedging it underneath the SIM slot (do not pry), and run it across the gap to release the clips. This ensures minimal/no damage to the battery and/or scratches to the StyleSwap cover, unlike using OnePlus' "Press and Peel" method. Never forget.
Step 3: Using a knife with a sharp tip, remove the rubber screw caps covering the three screws in the middle of the camera lens cover.
Step 4: Unscrew all the screws, and put them in a safe place where you won't lose them.
Step 5: Using a plastic pry tool, pry off the camera cover from the corner near the power button or volume button. Caution! The battery flex may be stuck to the cover, so don't lift it up all the way. Detach it from the cover before fully removing it.
Step 6: Using the aforementioned method, do the same for the speaker assembly. Remove the rubber screw caps, unscrew all the screws and store in a safe place. Note how the screws covered with the caps are smaller.
Step 7: Pry off the speaker assembly, starting from the USB port.
Step 8: Use a plastic pry tool to detach the battery flex connector if it hasn't detached yet, then carefully wedge a stainless steel pry tool underneath the battery, starting at the bottom left corner. This side has less adhesive, so it's easier to start on this side. DO NOT PUSH DOWN INTO THE CHASSIS. Delicate flex cables reside here. Keep all pushing of the pry tool as horizontal as possible.
Step 9: Once the left side of the battery has lifted enough, change directions of the pry tool. Use the left side of the chassis as a leverage point, and lift the battery out of the battery well. Be careful not to puncture or deform the battery. You can use a pry tool to cut the adhesive on the right side off the battery.
Step 10: Unplug all the flex cable connectors off the logic board. There are 4 along the bottom edge and 1 to the left of the camera. DO NOT USE THE LOGIC BOARD AS A LEVERAGE POINT. There are delicate surface mount components on the logic board that can easily be damaged accidentally and are nearly impossible to replace. Hold down the logic board, and pull the flex connector up and away from the board.
Alternatively, if you want to cut to the chase and just replace the screen without removing all that other stuff, you can, by only disconnecting the LCD and digitizer flex (rightmost flex along the bottom and the wide flex in the top left corner respectively) and skipping to Step 19. Just remember to remove the plastic block in Step 16 and also be careful not to overheat the earpiece area.
Step 11: Unscrew the screw holding down the logic board. It is located next to the power button. Do not lose it for mix it up with the other screws. It is different in every dimension.
Step 12: Using a sharp knife, peel the button flexes off the chassis, making sure the bottom edge comes off first and be careful not to cut the flex.
Step 13: Push the digitizer flex away from the logic board so it doesn't get caught, and lift the logic board up from the chassis in an arc motion, starting from the top left corner. Rotate it clockwise while doing so.
Step 14: There is still one connector still connected to the logic board on the underside, and that's the cellular antenna connector. Pull the antenna slightly out of its groove.
Step 15: Detach the antenna connector from the logic board using a plastic pry tool. You can use the logic board as the leverage point here, but make sure there aren't any delicate components nearby.
Step 16: Using a pair of fine-tipped tweezers, remove the plastic block that sits next to the digitizer flex connector.
iFixit's teardown does not cover this. If you don't remove it, the flex connector will be caught and will not come out.
Step 17: Carefully, using a flat-head screwdriver, remove the earpiece. This prevents the diaphragm from being damaged later on, when the hot air gun is used.
CAUTION: the earpiece's diaphragm and voice coil has the tendency to fall apart and separate itself from the rest of the earpiece. Be careful.
Step 18 (optional if doing a screen replacement, just don't damage them in the process): Peel the speaker/antenna/vibrate motor flex and USB port flex from the chassis, and remove them.
Step 19: Evenly heat the bezels of the screen using a hairdryer on high heat setting or a hot air gun on a med-high heat setting (~300 °C/~600 °F) on low airflow setting. This softens the adhesive holding the screen in place, making removal easier. Caution! The chassis can become very hot, as it is metal. Do not heat one area for a prolonged period of time, as it can permanently deform the plastic bezel surrounding the screen (or damage the LCD/digitizer, if it's a working one you intend to reuse).
This step I do not have exact instructions for, because my screen isn't broken. I had to be careful not to break it, as it was my only screen. You can use a knife to pry off broken pieces of glass.
WARNING: If you are removing a working intact display and intend to keep it that way, do NOT separate any of the LCD layers from the glass. As it is laminated, separating it will result in permanent damage to the display assembly.
I don't know what this copper does. It doesn't seem significant. New screen assemblies don't seem to have it. Also note that the screen is removed as a single piece assembly.
Step 20: Scrape off the copper bits and the old adhesive from the chassis using a tool of your choice, making sure to not damage anything else.
Step 21: Clean up your work area to prepare for re-assembly! Be careful of broken glass bits.
Obligatory exploded view pic:
Re-assembly
Now might be a good time to fix your grounding issues! If your touch issues arose from the increase of the device's temperature, you may have to cover the whole metallic back of the LCD with tape too.
Note: if the screen still has issues even when isolated as below, then the screen itself may be faulty.
To re-assemble it, it pretty much is just going through the steps in reverse order. When the phone is fully disassembled and nothing is adhered into place, now's the time to test your replacement screen assembly. You can do so by fitting the screen into the frame without using any adhesive, connect it to the logic board along with the battery and turn it on, or if you're lazy like me, just connect it up like this:
It is not recommended to keep the phone powered on for any longer than a few minutes like this, because the logic board effectively has no heatsink.
Step 1: As mentioned before, the old glue can no longer be reused, so we'll have to apply some adhesive tape, cut by hand. If this were a mainstream phone, it'd be pretty easy to get machine-cut 3M tape that fits the bezel perfectly, to ensure an optimal fit.
Sadly, this isn't the case, so we'll have to resort to rolls of that tape of various widths. You can buy these from eBay by searching "3M double sided repair tape".
Update: pre-cut tape is now an option! You can get it on AliExpress .
I personally used 1 mm for the side bezels and 3 mm for the top and bottom, but experiment to obtain maximum coverage. Make sure you don't cover any sensor holes. Usually, this tape in roll form isn't adequately thick, so double up and use two layers.
IMPORTANT: Check that there aren't remnants of broken glass on the bezel when you install the screen or tape. They can cause the screen to easily break.
Also check that you've moved the earpiece grille and capacitive key backlight pads (if the new screen doesn't have them) over from the old screen to the new one. And if you really want to, move the foam ring surrounding the front camera hole in the glass to. It prevents light from the LCD's backlight from leaking into view.
Step 2: Thread the flexes through their respective holes, and fit the screen into the chassis. Lightly heat the bezels (not too much; you don't want to damage the new LCD) to soften the adhesive, and place the screen face down on a clean, flat surface. Push down on the chassis with moderate force.
Step 3: Replace the rubber plastic block that sits in the digitizer flex slot.
Step 4: Make sure the proximity sensor, light sensor and front camera holes are clean and aren't covered by tape.
Step 5: If they were removed during the disassembly, replace the speaker/antenna/vibrate motor flex, then the USB port flex. Watch out for that weird bit that sticks out on the left ide of the speaker flex. Don't forget to reconnect the cellular antenna down the bottom.
Step 6: Put the earpiece back into the chassis. It should be oriented such that the two contact points are next to the digitizer flex.
Step 7: Reconnect the cellular antenna at the logic board. Do not push hardly unless you're absolutely sure it's aligned correctly.
Step 8: Tuck the antenna back into its groove.
Step 9: When reseating the logic board, ensure that the flex connectors stay clear from it. You don't want to have them end up underneath the logic board. Check that the board is flush with the screw holes.
Step 10: Make sure the front camera is also sitting flush. If it isn't, the camera cover may not fit, and the front camera will not be centered.
Step 11: Reconnect all the flex cables, and replace the logic board screw.
Step 12: Stick the button flexes back down onto the chassis.
Step 13: Straighten all the flex cables by lifting them up and stretching them towards the logic board, the stick them back down.
Step 14: Put the battery back in, then reconnect the flex.
Step 15: Replace the camera cover and screw it back into place.
Step 15b: Replace the tamper seal/water damage indicator (you won't get warranty either way, but might as well)
Step 16: Put the speaker assembly back in, and screw it into place.
Step 17: Replace all the rubber screw caps.
Step 18: Replace the StyleSwap cover, and put the SIM tray (with card) back in. Although the tray fits either way (like in Sony's Xperia Z series phones), the side with the gold contacts should face up when the phone faces down. Inserting it upside down will result in the phone not reading the SIM card, and risk damage to the internal SIM reader. LG, HTC and Apple's phones' SIM trays are designed to only fit one-way.
Step 19: Turn the phone on, and enjoy the results of your efforts!
Added to OnePlus One index thread:
[INDEX] OnePlus One Resources Compilation Roll-Up
Transmitted via Bacon
How difficult is this repair for someone who has no experience repairing phones?
I broke my screen 2 days ago and I'm wondering if it's worth trying to repair it, this guide seems pretty solid but some steps look like you might easily break the phone entirely.
naithantu said:
How difficult is this repair for someone who has no experience repairing phones?
I broke my screen 2 days ago and I'm wondering if it's worth trying to repair it, this guide seems pretty solid but some steps look like you might easily break the phone entirely.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have no experience it'll probably be pretty difficult for you, unless you have a good technical/mechanical mind.
timmaaa said:
If you have no experience it'll probably be pretty difficult for you, unless you have a good technical/mechanical mind.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess it should be possible to do it myself then, or at least give it a try
I'll probably order a new screen tomorrow, will post here in a month or so when the screen arrived
Query
Excellent guide and I have all the bits removed from the old frame.
I thought I would be an easier route to use a brand new frame, instead of trying to heat the old LCD off.
I have tested everything on the bench and it powers up and we have touch screen
But I have now stopped the reassembly to check the following out. The new frame although having the required sticky parts does not have the black parts, which I assume is insulation.
Do I need this? what can I replace it with, is insulation tape ok although slightly thicker or maybe thin scotch magic tape? The guide mentions a good time to fix the touch screen issues, in the 4 days I had it prior to the drop, I don't think I had an issues, but does this need to be done, and am I right in reading that's also just cover the metal of the screen with insulation tape or scotch magic tape again?
I have attached an image of the black tape I refer to on the frame
Thanks,
Stephen.
CyberActive said:
Query
Excellent guide and I have all the bits removed from the old frame.
I thought I would be an easier route to use a brand new frame, instead of trying to heat the old LCD off.
I have tested everything on the bench and it powers up and we have touch screen
But I have now stopped the reassembly to check the following out. The new frame although having the required sticky parts does not have the black parts, which I assume is insulation.
Do I need this? what can I replace it with, is insulation tape ok although slightly thicker or maybe thin scotch magic tape? The guide mentions a good time to fix the touch screen issues, in the 4 days I had it prior to the drop, I don't think I had an issues, but does this need to be done, and am I right in reading that's also just cover the metal of the screen with insulation tape or scotch magic tape again?
I have attached an image of the black tape I refer to on the frame
Thanks,
Stephen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it was originally in the phone, it's always a good idea to replace it, or use a substitute in place of it. I don't know how it'll affect the phone's functionality if it isn't replaced, because I've never tried it. It's best to play it safe and tape up those corresponding areas with electrical tape. Scotch tape may be too thin.
Dang, 4 days??
Also, does your replacement screen have the earpiece grille pre-installed? When I disassembled mine, the earpiece was not part of the frame, but stuck to the screen.
vantt1 said:
If it was originally in the phone, it's always a good idea to replace it, or use a substitute in place of it. I don't know how it'll affect the phone's functionality if it isn't replaced, because I've never tried it. It's best to play it safe and tape up those corresponding areas with electrical tape. Scotch tape may be too thin.
Dang, 4 days??
Also, does your replacement screen have the earpiece grille pre-installed? When I disassembled mine, the earpiece was not part of the frame, but stuck to the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok making some progress
Turns out the black that's under the flat connectors is there on the replacement frame, just a different colour.
I am starting to think that the black that's under the main board could be some sort of heat sink tape? I am referring the black that's actually stuck to the logic board on the top and also on the frame below the logic board and linked to the rear facing camera.
I have tried to remove the old screen with a hair dryer but have failed miserably. So I can not see for myself what the black under the screen was like can you remember if it was like what I believe to be heat sink tape or was it just adhesive or insulation?
Thanks for the heads up about the speaker grill, that is attached to the old screen, I managed to break that out as that's where the screen was smashed.
I have also noticed there is some conductive tape that bridges the frame and back of the screen together, that's not on the replacement parts.
There is also an adhesive o ring stuck to the glass in the front facing camera slot that's not on there replacement part.
Hopefully will get it rebuilt soon
Thanks Stephen
CyberActive said:
Ok making some progress
Turns out the black that's under the flat connectors is there on the replacement frame, just a different colour.
I am starting to think that the black that's under the main board could be some sort of heat sink tape? I am referring the black that's actually stuck to the logic board on the top and also on the frame below the logic board and linked to the rear facing camera.
I have tried to remove the old screen with a hair dryer but have failed miserably. So I can not see for myself what the black under the screen was like can you remember if it was like what I believe to be heat sink tape or was it just adhesive or insulation?
Thanks for the heads up about the speaker grill, that is attached to the old screen, I managed to break that out as that's where the screen was smashed.
I have also noticed there is some conductive tape that bridges the frame and back of the screen together, that's not on the replacement parts.
There is also an adhesive o ring stuck to the glass in the front facing camera slot that's not on there replacement part.
Hopefully will get it rebuilt soon
Thanks Stephen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, that tape is very similar to the type that's found on the inside of the iPhone 5's midframe. Apparently it's a "heat dissipation shield" film. You can probably buy it on eBay then trim it to the same shape as the original.
I don't know what that copper stuff that bridges the LCD to the frame is. I scraped off the bridging bits, and nothing seems off on my end.
Replace that O ring if you can. If you use the front camera, the backlight from the LCD might leak into view. I know it does on the Nexus 5.
Great stuff, slowly getting there, I will get that orderderd and cut to size, these are what I am looking at:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/iPhone-4-...K_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item418dc2333a
and / or
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-iPhone...nk-dissipation-adhesive-sticker-/171636569146
Was it this same stuff that was on the frame surface behind the LCD? or was that just insulation?
Also you mentioned the touch screen fix, what is involved in that?
Thanks Stephen.
CyberActive said:
Great stuff, slowly getting there, I will get that orderderd and cut to size, these are what I am looking at:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/iPhone-4-...K_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item418dc2333a
and / or
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-iPhone...nk-dissipation-adhesive-sticker-/171636569146
Was it this same stuff that was on the frame surface behind the LCD? or was that just insulation?
Also you mentioned the touch screen fix, what is involved in that?
Thanks Stephen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The stuff behind the LCD is more of a foam tape/film than a graphite tape. It feels similar to the one found behind the Nexus 5's LCD, but darker and smoother. And of course, the Nexus 5's isn't big enough.
The touchscreen fix involves putting tape on the chassis underneath the digitizer flex. If the issue was heat related, the metallic back of the LCD may need to be taped up too (apparently along the perimeter, creating a rectangle).
See above picture, circled in red: it looks like there's some heat dissipation tape underneath the LCD too.
Ah ok, any suggestions on what I could replace the stuff behind the LCD with then? I have searched for the nexus 5 stuff and I can no locate any of that either.
Thanks,
Stephen.
CyberActive said:
Ah ok, any suggestions on what I could replace the stuff behind the LCD with then? I have searched for the nexus 5 stuff and I can no locate any of that either.
Thanks,
Stephen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At the moment the best way to obtain it would probably be to take it out of your old frame. It's really hard to find OnePlus One specific parts these days.
guess I will have to go buy a heat gun over the next few days as I tried using a hair dryer and was not able to get even a little bit of movement on lifting the lcd from the frame.
I will post back over the new few days how it goes. fingers crossed.
I followed this guide and it was perfect!
The only downside is that when heating the screen i've managed seperate the plastic bezel from the screen it's self which is now out of shape as well. I'm hoping if i just heat it back up a little I can reform it back.
Just waiting on delivery of some repair tape.
hi guys i just send my one to repair for over 150€ because i thought it could only be changed as a wholle.. screen functions online half of the screen touchscreen doesnt work becuase of a small crack on the side.....SO DO I NEED JUST A NEW TOUCH DIGITIZER??? is this also with the corning glass on top?? mits not right??
Finally got everything I needed to go ahead with the screen replacement. This teardown was extremely helpful. I did have one snag and I haven't tested yet. When removing the earpiece it disassembled into two pieces and unwound but I gingerly repositioned the copper thread and left the earpiece in during the heating and old screen removal.
The new screen is outstanding and completely changes the experience of using the One Plus One. I only wish they had done better quality control in the first place.
Thanks for this guide. I'm going to order a new screen/digitizer today. I guess in about a month I'll be attempting this. When I broke my OnePlus I ordered a new one that day, so I plan on selling the second one if this repair is successful. If it's not, then I guess I lose $70 and some time. Wish me luck!
This is interesting. If appears a new battery technology would be nice guide.
Related
I bought a replacement housing kit off eBay. After installation, I have a few tips to share.
-The housing looks very OE, except for the keyboard bezel/center plate. It is GLOSSY black. The material they used looks to be much more flexible so less likely to break. It does, however, look out of place, as there is a shiny gloss black ring around the middle of the phone now. The battery cover is rubberized, but feels much thinner to me. It's fit is OK, but it doesn't snap on quite as tight as the original one.
-You need to remove the old brass inserts from your LCD bezel and center plate. They need to be inserted into the new parts, otherwise you wont have anything to screw into. I inserted a screw into them, and a properly fitting screwdriver, and beat them in with a very light hammer. If you do not have a screw in them, you risk mashing the brass. The metal plate from the center plate and the metal plate from the lcd housing also need to be swapped over. I used a rubberized super glue from the hobby store (it is black in color).
-The rubber lcd mounts need to be peeled off (there are 4 of them) the lcd housing before the digitizer will come out easily. Once you place the digitizer into the new housing, make sure to put the rubber pieces back.
-The misc pieces of double sided tape will not be able to be re-used, instead buy some scotch double sided tape and stick a piece to some wax paper. Use a sharp hobby knife to cut it into slivers, and apply it in sections. Much easier!
-The battery cover does not come with glass, the microsd card cover is not in there, and neither is the usb cover.
I used this to switch a brown phone over to a black one. Switching colors will be difficult as there are missing pieces. Luckily I have many parts phones laying around that I could rob parts from along the way. The entire swap took about an hour and a half, $25, and 2 beers.
BTW, I got it here. The seller accepted a $25 offer and it arrived 3 days later.
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The center plate is already glossy on many OEM Dreams, including the ADP1.
interesting, i didn't know that! I have many G1's, but no ADP1 variety. I guess this is an upgrade then!
very cool. i just ordered one 3 days ago to go from black to bronze haha.
how difficult was it?
well, it depends on your level of experience with small electronics. Use the manual, it helps a lot! Do everything in sections. Allow plenty of time for stuff to dry (like the gluing of the metal parts to the new plastics) and make sure you have the right glue (do NOT use regular superglue! the rubberized version at the hobby store is perfect! regular super glue will fog the plastics). The biggest thing is definitely laying out the parts in a safe place, and take your time. If you are in a hurry, you will surely break something.
This is truly a great set of tips. I've been considering converting my brown G1 to black so that I can see the keyboard for a change. Right after the phone was released, I bought a dummy phone on eBay in the vain hope that it wasn't made of dummy parts as well. Now I think I may have to get the real thing and give it a go. Thanks again!
holy **** people. i cannot recommend this to anyone. this is the hardest / dumbest thing i have ever done electronics wise. im so screwed right now its unbelievable. i have taken apart and re done a tmobile dash, razr, and several phones....this phone is insane.
please heed my warning unless your very very very skilled do not attempt this.
op. how did you get the hearing speaker assembly back together with the clear piece? i have no idea what to do.
im a guy and a police officer and this project has almost brought me to tears because ive pretty much destoryed my only phone and my favorite phone. fml seriously.
trexxcrap2 said:
holy **** people. i cannot recommend this to anyone. this is the hardest / dumbest thing i have ever done electronics wise. im so screwed right now its unbelievable. i have taken apart and re done a tmobile dash, razr, and several phones....this phone is insane.
please heed my warning unless your very very very skilled do not attempt this.
op. how did you get the hearing speaker assembly back together with the clear piece? i have no idea what to do.
im a guy and a police officer and this project has almost brought me to tears because ive pretty much destoryed my only phone and my favorite phone. fml seriously.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did this a few days ago and it wasnt really that hard, just time consuming.
the little clear plastic piece should fit in like this: if your looking down at your phone, with it facing normally towards you, the clear plastic piece should sit in nicely in the upper left corner of the housing, with the raised portion on the left side. there should also be a very small notch on the housing if you look closely, and the clear plastic piece should fit on the inside of that so itll fit nice and flush with the housing.
there should also be a black rubber piece that goes over the raised portion of the clear plastic piece. it fits losely on it but if you look closely you can figure out which way it goes.
the speaker just basically lays over the clear plastic piece loosely, in the left corner of it. make sure you have the two little gold connectors facing up and closer to the top edge of the phone.
everything should go together smoothly after that
I changed my bronze housing to a white one, during the transition I cut my long coax (by closing the phone on it), ended up with a few spare screws and some parts of the phone kinda don't fit quite right. I did manage to splice my long coax back together and its being held together by duct tape. So far its ok and I get a good strong cell signal but the gps wont get a lock which really sucks. My back light on the keyboard went out too but still works on the chin. Also my camera wont work at all and force closes every time, although I think its the command thats messed up not the camera itself.
I'm sure if I had to do it again I could without damaging it.
This aint no blackberry, its a busy device under the cover. I think I was just rushing myself too much. So anybody planning on doing this prepare to spend at least an hour or more if its your first time opening it up and be sure to read up on a dissasembly guide. I kinda just dove into it.
I bought it on craigslist for $50 because it looked like a dog chewed on it. I plan on getting one that fully works when I get the dough to do so.
there are projects that some should not ever tackle, and other projects that anyone could do. This is NOT a project for just anyone. You should be VERY familiar with the phone, and by all means, rtfm. The guide is available by searching and makes it much easier to complete the swap as it shows step by step how to disassemble and reassemble. There are some steps not shown, as they dont usually need to remove and replace the brass inserts and they would usually have a kit of tape that is die cut ready to use. I made do and it turned out great...but you have to know your limits. The stuff that stumped me, or pissed me off..was the stuff I wrote about in my OP. Apart from that, it was just a matter of patients and knowing what went where.
I have a replacement cable if you still need one, phatmanxxl...pm me for details. I have a couple "craigslist specials" that are just parted out since they had water damage.
gospeed.racer said:
I bought a replacement housing kit off eBay. After installation, I have a few tips to share.
-The housing looks very OE, except for the keyboard bezel/center plate. It is GLOSSY black. The material they used looks to be much more flexible so less likely to break. It does, however, look out of place, as there is a shiny gloss black ring around the middle of the phone now. The battery cover is rubberized, but feels much thinner to me. It's fit is OK, but it doesn't snap on quite as tight as the original one.
-You need to remove the old brass inserts from your LCD bezel and center plate. They need to be inserted into the new parts, otherwise you wont have anything to screw into. I inserted a screw into them, and a properly fitting screwdriver, and beat them in with a very light hammer. If you do not have a screw in them, you risk mashing the brass. The metal plate from the center plate and the metal plate from the lcd housing also need to be swapped over. I used a rubberized super glue from the hobby store (it is black in color).
-The rubber lcd mounts need to be peeled off (there are 4 of them) the lcd housing before the digitizer will come out easily. Once you place the digitizer into the new housing, make sure to put the rubber pieces back.
-The misc pieces of double sided tape will not be able to be re-used, instead buy some scotch double sided tape and stick a piece to some wax paper. Use a sharp hobby knife to cut it into slivers, and apply it in sections. Much easier!
-The battery cover does not come with glass, the microsd card cover is not in there, and neither is the usb cover.
I used this to switch a brown phone over to a black one. Switching colors will be difficult as there are missing pieces. Luckily I have many parts phones laying around that I could rob parts from along the way. The entire swap took about an hour and a half, $25, and 2 beers.
BTW, I got it here. The seller accepted a $25 offer and it arrived 3 days later.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey I was wondering if anyone could tell me what they mean by "gaskets" here:
http://mikechannon.net/PDF Manuals/HTC Dream SM (A04).pdf
gospeed.racer said:
well, it depends on your level of experience with small electronics. Use the manual, it helps a lot! Do everything in sections. Allow plenty of time for stuff to dry (like the gluing of the metal parts to the new plastics) and make sure you have the right glue (do NOT use regular superglue! the rubberized version at the hobby store is perfect! regular super glue will fog the plastics). The biggest thing is definitely laying out the parts in a safe place, and take your time. If you are in a hurry, you will surely break something.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
do you know what that rubberized glue is called ? Also maybe could you be a little more specific about gluing what plastic to metal you may be talking about ? Thank you...
I use Bob Smith Industries IC-2000 myself, here it is in their words:
"IC-2000™ is a rubber-toughened cyanoacrylate that forms superior shock resistant bonds on non-porous surfaces. The black colored CA has added flexibility for the bonding of metals, fiberglass, rubber, carbon-fiber and other advanced materials"
As for knowing what parts to glue, well...it is very apparent once you have the phone apart. You will have some pieces that need to be glued to the new plastic housing. You'll see. I am 2 phones back on working on G1's now, its been a while to work from memory.
gospeed.racer said:
I bought a replacement housing kit off eBay. After installation, I have a few tips to share.
-The housing looks very OE, except for the keyboard bezel/center plate. It is GLOSSY black. The material they used looks to be much more flexible so less likely to break. It does, however, look out of place, as there is a shiny gloss black ring around the middle of the phone now. The battery cover is rubberized, but feels much thinner to me. It's fit is OK, but it doesn't snap on quite as tight as the original one.
-You need to remove the old brass inserts from your LCD bezel and center plate. They need to be inserted into the new parts, otherwise you wont have anything to screw into. I inserted a screw into them, and a properly fitting screwdriver, and beat them in with a very light hammer. If you do not have a screw in them, you risk mashing the brass. The metal plate from the center plate and the metal plate from the lcd housing also need to be swapped over. I used a rubberized super glue from the hobby store (it is black in color).
-The rubber lcd mounts need to be peeled off (there are 4 of them) the lcd housing before the digitizer will come out easily. Once you place the digitizer into the new housing, make sure to put the rubber pieces back.
-The misc pieces of double sided tape will not be able to be re-used, instead buy some scotch double sided tape and stick a piece to some wax paper. Use a sharp hobby knife to cut it into slivers, and apply it in sections. Much easier!
-The battery cover does not come with glass, the microsd card cover is not in there, and neither is the usb cover.
I used this to switch a brown phone over to a black one. Switching colors will be difficult as there are missing pieces. Luckily I have many parts phones laying around that I could rob parts from along the way. The entire swap took about an hour and a half, $25, and 2 beers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am currently changing the center plate of my G1. I tried to take the brass inserts out but cannot seem to budge them. Any recommendations on how you took them out? Did yours involve cutting the plastic to get to them? Is there any other way to take them out without having to damage the center plate? (I am a bit worried that the new one may have some problems in snapping together and want the original one intact as a safety precaution)
I dropped my phone and need to replace the housing. It looks like the digitiser cannot be easily removed from the housing, so I bought one of these as well. Now all I have to do is move the phone from the old housing to the new and install the digitiser in the new housing.
Now it looks like the digitiser may have been glued in place. What type of glue should I use ?
::Pixel.Freak:: said:
I dropped my phone and need to replace the housing. It looks like the digitiser cannot be easily removed from the housing, so I bought one of these as well. Now all I have to do is move the phone from the old housing to the new and install the digitiser in the new housing.
Now it looks like the digitiser may have been glued in place. What type of glue should I use ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
More liked taped in...... I'm sure that lots of people will respond with.. Double sided 3M tape.... but if there's anything better/stronger than that on the market use it. Make sure it''s really thin tape to. I'm gonna be replacing my housing in the next month or so aswell. Goodluck.
As I also will replace mine digitizer, the newton rings are bugging me, it will be appreciable if you can share your experiences of the replacement process.
thanks in advance and god luck
Hey on more thing. I took apart my phone last night and put it back just so I know my way around when parts come in.
If your Digitizer does not work try loosening the top srews 1/4 turn. You have them on too tight.
I wasn't replacing mine so I didn't have to remove the existing one. All I had to do was attach a new digitiser to a new housing.
I was told that double sided tape was the best, so I tried that.
I used the instruction from http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/htc-touch-diamond2 which was easy enough.
You need to ensure you remove the micro SD card first.
Also I forgot to move the LED diffuser from the top, so I need to repeat the process at some stage.
The housing I bought had a number of issues
* The two screw point near the bottom of the housing didn't have the metal inserts with the screw threads
* There was no seal between the metal housing and the LCD screen. This could let dust in.
That's about it for a brain dump.
Hi there,
I was also tired from that oil stai and ordered a new digitizer from these guys:
http://xxx.sw-box.com/htc-touch-diamond-2-t5353-digitizer-touch-panel-screen.html
Surely it arrived in 6 days, to my horror it was a generic display,
Had some trouble removing the old one, ended up breaking it
The generic did not fit snugly, I had to sand down the edges to make them round, also had some trouble with the four buttons below getting stuck when pressing down, (shaved of some extra plastic). anyway used double sided scotch film to get the digitizer back in place.
apart from a few difficulties, it works like a charm.
Should have ordered an OEM but what's done is done
Next time I'll do the cover and get a new digitizer
Regards
I would of thought double sided tape too thick to use to stick the digitizer on.
I was thinking of using a very thin sliver of clear silicone.
Anybody tried this or have any other suggestions?
Thanks
I used a very thin layer of supergleu and it worked great!!
My digitizer came pre-glued. I didn't need any sort of glue.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=715724
Silicone is OK
I used a very thin layer of black silicone and placed a book on top of the digitizer to keep it pressed flat into the case as it dried overnight. No problems since then...
The missing metal screw inserts can simply be pulled out of the old housing ; insert screw halfway and gently pull with plyers. Carefully hammer into the new casing; insert screw 3/4, put something thin and metal on top to prevent the screwhead from getting damaged and carefully hammer into the void. Make sure it goes in straight.
I've got exactly the same issue with my new housing, no bottom screw threads and no foam for the lcd to rest on. Am trying to pull the threads out with pliers but I think the old case is going to break first or strip the threads.
This is isn't an easy job
have finally finished this epic!!!!
had to break the bottom screw threads out of the old front housing and took a good while hammering them into the new housing so I didn't break it.
used a small sliver of clear silicone to glue the digitizer in which seems to work well so far.
Have not put any foam or anything for the LCD to rest on, time will tell what effect this has.
I need to change mine as well. Where can i buy a good quality digitizer and case preferably pre-glued?
I found a few on ebay but i am not sure of the quality.
Thanks
Today i searched also for shops which have digitizers and housings. I have found 2 shops, but one of them is a german shop (http://www.mobileok.de) which does not deliver outside of germany and austria. But the other one does: http://www.sw-box.com/
what kind of glue? it's the third time that i'm re-gluing it, but dust keeps coming inside....
I guess, it is not possible to hermetical seal the housing. I had dust in my original housing too. There are a lot of small gaps everywhere not only between digitizer and frame. But it would be easy to disassemble the device from time to time, remove the dust and reassemble it again. Save your energy in the effort to make your device dust proof.
Had two damaged screen's bought replacement on eBay and both were perfect but the tools that come with them are cheap crap so don't rely on them especially the scraping tool
You need a tri wing screw driver and most importantly that saw on no forums or videos a heat gun. Bought mine for 14 and did the job perfectly as long as it goes to 500c or 1030f you should be fine.
Remove sd and sim card first
STEP ONE
Remove the screw covers on either side of the speakers, compass or paper clip will do the job, them with tri wing unscrew the two screws an put in box, careful they are tricky little feckers and you could be searching on the ground for awihle.
Step two
With the cheap crap tool that they supply a few use them All after they break to remove the seal around the edge of the screen and the case, start at v the bottom and careful of the volume rocker buttons.
Then keep on going around till there is give on all sides, then reverse the tool and pry then casing away. After a few moments of fiddling get small flat head or small spatula to pry more. Then it should lift of with help.
STEP THREE
There is seven screws and six clips to remove and the videos on you tube are excellent help here and removing battery and mother board which is all nice and easy.
But the hard bit is taking the screen off, don't even bother attempting this with out a heat gun that doesn't come close to temp above, no point this glue is brilliant.
With the gun you move around the edges for good few moments two maybe three mins then with spatula gently stick between the black glue v screen and the grey casing, you have to be careful as this gets hot after the gun and you don't want to push the spatula to much cause you could damage the digitizer.
After wrestling for another few mins it comes of. First one I did was real messy, but the second just used heat gun for another twenty thirty seconds in stubborn areas then it was fine.
Once the screen was removed make sure the glue tape is removed from the casing and let it cool down for few mins then apply the new one, I positioned it between my thumbs and bottom of the screen both times and had no issue's.
Then reverse the process and have brand new device
Sent from my LT26i using XDA
OK - the burning question many people have had has been answered - Can I replace my screen?
The answer is yes, but it is not for the fainthearted.
My poor HTC One came to grief recently hitting a marble floor and while useable came off second best.
Investigation with local phone repairers yielded little. I could only find one company in Melbourne that wanted $295 to fix the screen on a $700 phone.
Looking around online I could only find teardown clips and the ifixit rating of 1 which isn't terribly confidence inspiring.
So this left me with a three options
1. Cut my losses and by a new phone
2. Cough up for a repairer
3. Have a crack at it myself
I started off searching for replacement screens on e-bay and after a bit more searching came across etradesupply.
Not only did they have all the parts they also gave me an idea, if I am changing screen, why not colour? I always liked the black one a bit more but was too impatient and bought the silver one.
So I went for it and ordered the screen and digitizer as an assembly
etradesupply.com/oem-htc-one-lcd-screen-and-digitizer-assembly-with-front-housing.html[/url]
and new rear housing
etradesupply.com/oem-htc-one-rear-housing-black-with-htc-and-beatsaudio-logo.html[/url]
I also ordered a few tools and about 5 days later my parts arrived.
Over this period I watched the youtube tear down clips and also reviewed the iFixit guide and wondered what had I got myself in for.
So I decided tonight was the night to go for it.
I started by trying to pry off the bottom speaker with the intent of working around the old housing. My delusions of grandeur of an elegant fix disappeared quickly as the zero gap was an impenetrable fortress that could not be penetrated until I hacked the base off breaking the bottom off where the polycarbonate seam is.
After a good half an hour of hacking and prying my case was off showing off the sheer complexity of the interior.
THIS WAS NOT LOOKING PROMISING
So as I looked over this and thought ok, lets start unscrewing and this is where I hit my first obstacle. My precision screwdrivers were not precise enough so a quick trip to the local hardware store and I was in business.
I decided to try and take the path of least tear down. Looking at the clips I felt I could achieve the outcome without a complete tear down. My advice to anyone else thinking the same is DO NOT DO THIS.
While I got there in the end, the antennas are fragile and any tension will snap them as I discovered. Not a big deal as a few seconds with the soldering iron fixed it, but it is easier to simply detach and re-attach them.
So after taking off various bits of tape, screws, ribbons and prying the battery out of the case which is well glued with adhesive I was almost there. If you watch the tear down clip, be prepared to rip every last item out and disassemble as per the clip. All the way down to the vibration motor.
It was about here I was ready to abandon all hope, I had disassembled and had thought I had reassembled and when I did a test boot, nothing....
I pushed, prodded, poked and tested all the connections and still nothing.
I disassembled and ensured every tricky little ribbon was connected and like a patient in a medical drama when it has had two shocks with the defibrillator, when I tried again it kicked in to life.
Screen works - Yes
Wi-Fi works - Yes
Bluetooth works - Yes
Audio works - Yes
3G/HSDPA works - Yes
Test call works - Yes
All of a sudden when I thought I was off to buy a new handset my HTC One had kicked back in to life. My transplant had patient was alive but still critical.
So I started the process of taping up the ribbons, screwing in all the screws and getting it in shape for the final part - attaching the rear housing.
I lowered the rear housing on to the exposed wires like Darth Vader's mask lowering on to Anakin at the end of Revenge of The Sith and just as I thought victory was mine there was a moment of dread.... it didn't fit
I delicately pried off the housing and took a look, the convoluted assembly around the charger socket was the culprit. After some re-evaluation and re-organisation of the plate, the rear housing was secured and the death star, oops no the HTC One M7 in black was fully operational
So about 3 hours after I started my task is complete, black is a much nicer look, however, the zero gap isn't as zero as it was before but will do.
I think if I were to do it again I would do it in under two hours, but the repairer estimates of 3 hours isn't outlandish.
If you cracked your screen and want to replace it, then I would say go for it and buy the assembly and housing as I did.
If you simply want to change colours for no other reason that you want to, I would caution against this. The work is serious and has risks. It is a repair of last resort.
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one minor thing to point out, the Sim Card Tray ships seperate so anyone thinking of a colour transplant will need to add that to the list.
Showed off my repaired One today, my workmates who are all in IT were mighty impressed, thought I had no chance of getting it done after looking at the tear down on iFixit
Dredd73 said:
one minor thing to point out, the Sim Card Tray ships seperate so anyone thinking of a colour transplant will need to add that to the list.
Showed off my repaired One today, my workmates who are all in IT were mighty impressed, thought I had no chance of getting it done after looking at the tear down on iFixit
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for the writing.
I was hoping to take apart the top and bottom speaker grill so I can close the gap.
How are they put together? Is it as simple as adhesive tape? or screwed?
dsan45 said:
thanks for the writing.
I was hoping to take apart the top and bottom speaker grill so I can close the gap.
How are they put together? Is it as simple as adhesive tape? or screwed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good Question, the answer is a definite no.
With a serious amount of heating the adhesive will yield, however, the top grill is also used as a mounting point for one of the screws. I would also be concerned that the amount of heat needed to break the bond would get to damaging levels for some components such as the speakers which sit underneath.
They SERIOUSLY made this phone as lowest self service as possible. The pics from my old grill's show this.
I would also think you would need something more serious than adhesive tape to bond to the plastic.
View attachment 2159676
dsan45 said:
thanks for the writing.
I was hoping to take apart the top and bottom speaker grill so I can close the gap.
How are they put together? Is it as simple as adhesive tape? or screwed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thinking about your question a bit more, if you are trying to close a gap by taking a component off and reattaching then I think you would be doomed to fail.
Without knowing where the gap is I'll assume it is in one of two spots, either between the rear housing and the grill or the screen and the grill. If this is the case then i'll try to explain what is occurring, a likely cause and why fixing is unlikely to work.
The design of the One M7 is basically a front assembly which is a chassis that the components screw on to. The back of the case is simply a shell that clips in to place.
If the gap is like this:
View attachment 2160617
It is a gap between the chassis and the back of the device. With the chassis being between the rear case and the grill all you would be doing is reattaching the grill to the chassis and not closing the gap and would almost certainly make the gap bigger not smaller as you would be adding more substance between the grill and the chassis/midframe
If the gap is like this:
View attachment 2160618
Then this is more likely to be the screen being pushed up from within the device itself. A likely cause is the battery sitting underneath is out by a mm or less and is pushing the screen up. The battery sits underneath the screen and there is literally no margin whatsoever between the screen, battery, motherboard and midframe so if something is out by a few μm to mm then the path of least resistance is for the screen to push up.
I know this from having completed not just a tear down but also a reassembly how fine the margins are. After my repair there is a very small gap in the screen and bottom grill which I just have to live with. Overall with a new case and a repaired screen I am much better off but it is not quite as good as something from plant. The repair process requires removing tape and disrupting some of the foil and all this increases the margins ever so slightly
I think HTC may have got themselves in to trouble with the marketing of this as Zero gap, it is pretty damn good, but Zero Gap means that a consumer will tolerate nothing less than Zero gap and thus we have an expectation problem. I have a lot of respect for what HTC have done with this device and still think it is a magnificent device but perhaps it is a bit too ambitious and the yields are killing them.
One final comment, a number of people have stated that their "Cracked Screen" was replaced with a new device. I personally believe it is nigh on impossible to remove the screen without some form of damage to the back of the case. The amount of pressure required to separate the front assembly loose would mark it with the amount of adhesive between the two plus the lack of margins mean that the repair is effectively what I did (i.e. a new front and rear assembly with a contents transfer)
Knowing what I know now, if I were to severely scratch or damage the grills I wouldn't entertain replacing them, it will only make the matter worse. I also know I could possibly open mine up and remove the internal pressure that is the likely cause of the gaps but again would risk making it worse for a small aesthetic gain.
I saw this thread on whirlpool as well, but the images here really give us a better look at the work you did. I also looked over the iFixit tear down and I have to say what an amazing job! You really did well, definitely not for the faint hearted!
Does this now mean that we can send you our broken One's for a repair job?!?
bwhinnen said:
I saw this thread on whirlpool as well, but the images here really give us a better look at the work you did. I also looked over the iFixit tear down and I have to say what an amazing job! You really did well, definitely not for the faint hearted!
Does this now mean that we can send you our broken One's for a repair job?!?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hehe not quitting my day job just yet.
Best not to break it in the first place. I've got the HTC cover on order!
Dredd73 said:
Thinking about your question a bit more, if you are trying to close a gap by taking a component off and reattaching then I think you would be doomed to fail.
Without knowing where the gap is I'll assume it is in one of two spots, either between the rear housing and the grill or the screen and the grill. If this is the case then i'll try to explain what is occurring, a likely cause and why fixing is unlikely to work.
The design of the One M7 is basically a front assembly which is a chassis that the components screw on to. The back of the case is simply a shell that clips in to place.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wow thank you for your thoughtful answer.
It sounds like you are in this business!
My gap is the first example you posted where their is a slight opening at the top. It seems like more I try to do 'anything' it is
most likely that I will ruin this device.
I tried fitting in my double sided tape inside the gap but really.. it woudnt get in there. So I guess it is best where it is now.
dsan45 said:
wow thank you for your thoughtful answer.
It sounds like you are in this business!
My gap is the first example you posted where their is a slight opening at the top. It seems like more I try to do 'anything' it is
most likely that I will ruin this device.
I tried fitting in my double sided tape inside the gap but really.. it woudnt get in there. So I guess it is best where it is now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem, I hope it saved you the grief of making something minor worse. Even though my repair job has a slight gap it isn't noticeable in black compared to Silver/white which is unforgiving.
While I am no phone repairer, I've always liked taking things apart and trying to fix them. The HTC One is possibly one of the fiddliest things I have taken on. I guess I didn't take it on by choice, only by bad luck and a hard floor!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=43334075
HTC One Teardown (Really not that bad)
Don't know if you have read this earlier thread from 7 July on HTC one dismantle process
Sent from my HTC One using xda app-developers app
oh wow, just in time... i have a cracked HTC One and my parts from e trade supply came only today.. ETS parts look very promising and came neatly packed .. very neatly and properly packed.. gonna do my playing with the phone tomorrow, wish me luck
@op, thanks for your post.. have not read it fully .. was so excited to see a DIY fix thread
---------- Post added at 12:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:01 AM ----------
ok so i did do the same order as you, the front panel and the back case .. choose silver and have silver.. thanks for your writing.. its exciting, hopefully i will share my experience here soon.
pradeepvizz said:
oh wow, just in time... i have a cracked HTC One and my parts from e trade supply came only today.. ETS parts look very promising and came neatly packed .. very neatly and properly packed.. gonna do my playing with the phone tomorrow, wish me luck
@op, thanks for your post.. have not read it fully .. was so excited to see a DIY fix thread
---------- Post added at 12:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:01 AM ----------
ok so i did do the same order as you, the front panel and the back case .. choose silver and have silver.. thanks for your writing.. its exciting, hopefully i will share my experience here soon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Best of luck. The parts from etrade supply seem to be OEM, the items marked as b-stock are seconds by the looks of things (probably screens with dead pixels etc)
If you go through it methodically you should be OK, make sure you have all the right tools such as screwdrivers, prying tools etc.
I would also perhaps recommend trimming the plastic cover on the battery, this seems to unstick and I think cause some bulging my .5mm when you reassemble. It is a bit like trying to re-wrap a present after you have unwrapped the paper, you can do it but it is never a perfect fit.
Thanks for the refit instructions, this is probably the first tread which talks about fitting it back. I got the A Stock items, did not choose the b stock. I went through the video and blog of ets and ordered every tool that they used in it
Sent from my HTC One using XDA Premium HD app
---------- Post added at 01:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:30 AM ----------
And my phone already had the bulging of the screen little in the front.. I mean the top speaker and screen were not flay, Which probably was also a reason why it broke easy.
Sent from my HTC One using XDA Premium HD app
pradeepvizz said:
Thanks for the refit instructions, this is probably the first tread which talks about fitting it back. I got the A Stock items, did not choose the b stock. I went through the video and blog of ets and ordered every tool that they used in it
Sent from my HTC One using XDA Premium HD app
---------- Post added at 01:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:30 AM ----------
And my phone already had the bulging of the screen little in the front.. I mean the top speaker and screen were not flay, Which probably was also a reason why it broke easy.
Sent from my HTC One using XDA Premium HD app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool, one last thing, make sure you have some good tweezers that are flat and not sharp. There is a ribbon which I think can only go in with tweezers and requires a bit of pressure to go in. You will also need them to assist re-attaching your antennas.
i have not opened my tweezers from ETS yet! thanks for the note.
Dredd73 said:
Good Question, the answer is a definite no.
With a serious amount of heating the adhesive will yield, however, the top grill is also used as a mounting point for one of the screws. I would also be concerned that the amount of heat needed to break the bond would get to damaging levels for some components such as the speakers which sit underneath.
They SERIOUSLY made this phone as lowest self service as possible. The pics from my old grill's show this.
I would also think you would need something more serious than adhesive tape to bond to the plastic.
View attachment 2159676
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But could you just place a little glue at the gap and squeeze it shut, instead of taking out the whole grill and reapplying?
fluxthesky said:
But could you just place a little glue at the gap and squeeze it shut, instead of taking out the whole grill and reapplying?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Perhaps these pictures may help, the grills do not attach to the rear housing, they attach to the midplane of the phone so the only way to close the gap is between the rear shell/housing and the midplane.
Trying to glue the midplane tighter to the rear housing is not something that I think would work nor would I recommend it. The types of glue required would potentially damage components that sit close to the edges and would cause complications if there was a screen crack later down the track. There is also potential if the wrong glue is used to damage the plastic housing. As you can see, if you were trying to close the top gap with glue there is the camera, speaker, light sensor and power switch which are all very close to the edges and would not benefit from a strong solvent based glue
View attachment 2170276
As commented in a previous post, the upward pressure is going to be where components meet the rear of the case, I've tried to highlight this in this picture. Any attempt to close the gap will be due to trying to flex/bend the edge to glue/adhere to the edge. A contact adhesive or tape will simply not win in the long term and a solvent based glue might stand a chance but the amount required risks gluing components. I'd rather have a small gap than damage something like the power switch.
If someone wants to give it a try, feel free to post results, but having gone through a re-build I wouldn't do it if I were faced with a small gap knowing what I know.
paul_59 said:
forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=43334075
HTC One Teardown (Really not that bad)
Don't know if you have read this earlier thread from 7 July on HTC one dismantle process
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I don't think there was a post on any forum anywhere on the subject that I hadn't read prior to my dismantle.
I guess the big difference between my post and this post is my post is about creating a repaired working phone as opposed to a tear down which is treated as a one way ticket.
I did entertain heavy duty heating, however, since I as not saving the case I opted to spare my components any unnecessary heat stress. Also most tear down's seem to put a lot of flex on the mainboard which is also something I wanted to avoid.
To my knowledge I don't think I have seen anyone else post an actual repair, just a tear down.
ok so my phone is now in a busted state!
i opened the front & the back fine, took quite an effort to pry up and separate the front and the back case, i took it out without any breakage. I started with the bottom speaker grill, heated & took of the bottom speaker grill and then pry'ed in the gap between back case & the front panel. The hard part was the move the separator from the bottom to the sides, in other words, starting to separate the side was hard, once a gap is created on the sides it was pretty easy to take the phone out by moving the separator around the phone.
one mistake i did was to not take out the sim card & sim card tray before starting to separate.
I then started with removing the components from the motherboard - i wanted to do a front panel replacement (essential screen replacement).
when removing the LCD connector cable, i broke the lock/connector which is on the motherboard. i was trying to release the lock to take out the connector and pressed hard on the connector itself rather than the lock - attaching a pic to make it clear - i broke the black part marked red, the lock was supposed to be removed by pulling up the part marked green.
I have assembled back everything with the new front housing and phone is semi partially working - i have almost removed and reconnected everything 4 times.
The vibrator kicks in action when i put the phone on but nothing on the display(broken display port to blame). One time i heard the phone boot (speaker sound) and that was when i tried to put it back in my old front panel to check.
Other than that the phone is identified as HTC Android USB phone in the device manager when connected but does not show on my computer as a portable device. It charges. heats when i try to put it on.
So to conclude the phone is dead now, don't have much of ideas to get it back working - but have a hope that it would if i replace quite some parts
Any advise is welcome!
pradeepvizz said:
ok so my phone is now in a busted state!
i opened the front & the back fine, took quite an effort to pry up and separate the front and the back case, i took it out without any breakage. I started with the bottom speaker grill, heated & took of the bottom speaker grill and then pry'ed in the gap between back case & the front panel. The hard part was the move the separator from the bottom to the sides, in other words, starting to separate the side was hard, once a gap is created on the sides it was pretty easy to take the phone out by moving the separator around the phone.
one mistake i did was to not take out the sim card & sim card tray before starting to separate.
I then started with removing the components from the motherboard - i wanted to do a front panel replacement (essential screen replacement).
when removing the LCD connector cable, i broke the lock/connector which is on the motherboard. i was trying to release the lock to take out the connector and pressed hard on the connector itself rather than the lock - attaching a pic to make it clear - i broke the black part marked red, the lock was supposed to be removed by pulling up the part marked green.
I have assembled back everything with the new front housing and phone is semi partially working - i have almost removed and reconnected everything 4 times.
The vibrator kicks in action when i put the phone on but nothing on the display(broken display port to blame). One time i heard the phone boot (speaker sound) and that was when i tried to put it back in my old front panel to check.
Other than that the phone is identified as HTC Android USB phone in the device manager when connected but does not show on my computer as a portable device. It charges. heats when i try to put it on.
So to conclude the phone is dead now, don't have much of ideas to get it back working - but have a hope that it would if i replace quite some parts
Any advise is welcome!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bad Luck, to get so close.....
The ribbon you are referring to simply pulls out and doesn't have the same clasp, this is the one that is also the hardest to re-insert. Have you got a good picture of what your the socket now? you should be able to push it in unless it is completely smashed.
When I was doing mine I just pulled the ribbons out without realising some are meant to lift open. To me if you are getting to boot and device recognition you got most of the way there.
The mainboard is about the only item that is non replaceable via OEM. I can only assume it is things like IMEI etc that would stop this. My only suggestion is to keep an eye out for someone selling a broken M7 and see if you can swap mainboards.
I thought I would share my experiences / lessons learned while I tried to replace my Z2's (D6503) back panel and battery.
Recently, the back panel started coming off on its own. I thought it was because of weakened adhesive. So, I ordered a back panel from Witrigs along with the adhesive (part 1 & 2, links below). I also got a guitar pick (part 3), suction mount (part 4) and a spudger (part 5) from Witrigs. It took about 3 weeks to get the parts.
Before removing the panel, I watched these videos: video 1, video 2.
I used a heat gun that I borrowed from work. Looks like a hair drier will also work. In video 2, you can see that the panel breaks when he was removing it. I think he didn't heat it enough. I used the heat gun for around 1 minute. The phone became really (almost unbearably) hot to touch. Then I slid in the pick and the panel came out easily in probably 2 minutes. The difficult part was in removing the glue residue. I spent almost 30 minutes doing that. I also used a alcohol hand sanitizer and cotton swabs for cleaning the glue residue. I am not exactly sure if the hand sanitizer helped or not.
Then I applied the panel and adhesive. Unfortunately, the adhesive didn't stick. I realized its because the battery was pushing the panel. The battery had expanded on both sides (the outer cover was bloated). So, I ordered a battery from Amazon (part 6). Since Witrigs was taking time to deliver, I also ordered the adhesive from Amazon (part 7). Both arrived in less than 5 days. I cleaned the original cover, put the new adhesive and battery and it fitted properly. But now there was a new problem. Camera became very blurred. Before putting in the panel this time, I had run the cotton swab on the camera glass on the panel (inside and outside). I didn't touch the actual camera lens. I don't know if that caused the blurriness or if it was the heat from the gun, the blurriness is not going away. I tried rubbing toothpaste (someone recommended it in XDA), that didn't help either. The panel I got from Witrigs didn't have any blurriness. Unfortunately, while trying to remove the adhesive residue from it, I scratched the black paint on the inside. Now if you place it in front of light, you can see the other side (its a very small scratch, but I also messed up another part mentioned later). This made me think if the Witrigs one was fake, but same thing happened to the original one a few minutes later. So, while cleaning the residue, don't put too much pressure and don't use anything sharp.
Another thing I learned was not to direct the heat gun on the inside of the panel. I did that with the Witrigs one while trying to remove the adhesive residue. There is a plastic part that sits in front of the flash LED. The heat caused part of it to melt.
So, now I have ordered a new set of panels, NFC and adhesive from EPartsSupply (parts 8, 9 & 10) since Witrigs is out of stock. Waiting for them to be delivered.
Also, before putting the panel in, make sure that the phone turns on (to ensure that the battery connector is properly in place). Also make sure that plastic part in front of the flash LED is in there. Its glued to the panel, but not that hard to remove. So it may accidentally come off.
Parts Used
Note: Please don't blindly buy these just because I listed them here. Chances are they may turn bad after a few weeks. I am particularly concerned about the battery and whether the adhesive will hold.
Part 1: Back panel from Witrigs
See attachments Back Panel - Inside/Outside.jpg. The one on the left is original.
I couldn't feel any physical difference between the original and the Witrigs one. I am not sure if the glass has the same property as the original.
It also comes with NFC and the adhesive. You just need to peel of the cover and place it on the phone.
Part 2: Adhesive from Witrigs
Part 3: Guitar pick
Part 4: Suction mount
Part 5: Spudger
Part 6: Z2 replacement battery
See attachments Battery Front/Back.jpg. The one on the bottom is the original.
The new one looked identical. I couldn't say for sure if it was fake. I will use it for a few days and see if I notice any difference and update here.
Part 7: Adhesive from Amazon
I am not sure how long these will hold. I recommend getting at least 2 adhesives because you may not be able to align it properly the first time. The method I have adopted is this:
Remove the protective covering meant for the panel side.
Align the tape on the phone carefully (note that the phone side cover is still present)
Place the panel on the tape and push it in.
Lift the panel. Remove the phone side protective covering.
Push the panel in.
Apply heat for a few seconds on all sides. (Note: I am not sure if this will strengthen the bond). Push firmly.
Part 8: EPartsSupply back panel
This doesn't have NFC.
Part 9: EPartsSupply NFC antenna
Based on video 1, it looks like its possible to remove the NFC antenna from original panel. When I tried to remove it from the Witrigs one, I ended up tearing it. So, I don't want to take a chance.
Part 10: EPartsSupply adhesive
What about waterproof ?
Can you test pressure sensor ?
How much did everything cost you?
And is the phone fixed?
Can you post some shots?
aotaotaot99 said:
What about waterproof ?
Can you test pressure sensor ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its extremely unlikely it will be water proof. The Witrigs guy himself said "its very difficult to make it waterproof again" here.
I assume you are talking about the barometer. I just tried with with two baarometer apps from Play Store. Both were showing 992.85/993 hPa.
MJ999 said:
And is the phone fixed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As of now, everything looks good.
But I wouldn't consider it as fixed since the camera is blurry now. I have ordered a back panel from ePartsSupply. Once I get it, I will try to replace it again. Also, I am not 100% confident about the battery.
AccuBattery app shows 2441 mAh capacity instead of 3200 mAh. Its been just 2 days. I remember somebody mentioning in the Amazon comments that it doesn't hold charge like the original. I will see for 1 more week. The concern I have is if this is fake, I don't want it to end up exploding. The battery in Witrigs website is $43.58 where as the one I bought from Amazon was $6.98 plus shipping. Also, I don't know for how long the adhesive will hold.
Honestly, after seeing the battery level today, I am leaning heavily towards buying a new phone. I keep the phone next to me while sleeping. I don't want it to catch fire.
http://imgur.com/r6dp3i9
MJ999 said:
How much did everything cost you?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Witrigs Purchases
OEM Back Cover Sticker for Sony Xperia Z2 (2) : $5.98
OEM Back Cover for Sony Xperia Z2 Black: $13.99
Plastic Guitar Pick 0.6mm Dark Blue: $1.59
3.5cm Suction Cup Transparent: $0.80
Best Opening Tools Spudger For Cell Phone: $1.56
Amazon Purchases
Battery: $10.98
Back & front adhesives (3): $23.66 (they come in pair)
ePartSupply Purchases
Back panel (3): $10.92
Adhesive (3): $5.70
NFC antenna (3): $8.88
Shipping: $16.70 (they didn't have any other shipping options)
I decided to buy 3 of each in case I have to change the battery again or if the adhesive becomes loose again. Also, the shipping cost is high.
MJ999 said:
Can you post some shots?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Damaged NFC antenna in the Witrigs panel when I tried to remove it:
http://imgur.com/r6dp3i9
Scratch on the Witrigs panel (bottom right corner):
http://imgur.com/svYuDuM
Phone after repair:
http://imgur.com/a6dXvOC
http://imgur.com/98YaW7W
Not sure why I can't post pictures in post. I have also attached them here.