My microUSB adapter coupled with the USB light is too heavy. I have to hold the nook upside down so that gravity will push down on the microUSB port. Furthermore, as mentioned in other threads, Android 2.1 doesn't allow the screen to rotate 180 degrees.
Do microUSB ports have a lock like Apple's dock connector? People have attached wriststraps to the iPhone's dock connector.
Is there another type of microUSB adapter I can get?
Oh, supporting your light off the connector is not a good idea.
Somebody should do a teardown on the glowworm to see if the LED is fed off a spare regulator in the TPS65921B (TWL4030).
Then you could use the stock glowworm software to control your light.
You wouldn't be using the USB connector.
You could either hardwire it or put a jack at the top.
I should check out making all 4 orientations work.
Sorry I'm not familiar with electronics terms.
I used the microUSB port after seeing this guy's photo.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1568995
Does hardwire mean solder the light like
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1423367&page=3
And putting a jack at the top means creating a USB port by attaching one to the regulator?
All these require drilling the holes in the case...
I don't like putting stress on the poor little micro USB connector.
I wouldn't ever use one of those block adapters that you use.
See the adapter in the attachment photo here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=26286972#post26286972
How about clamping the light on the top edge of the Nook and running the cord in the back?
It looks like the Nook Glow uses additional hardware for the power supply of the glow.
Yep I've seen those adapters before for attaching peripherals to phones and tablets. Before this I didn't know OTG was a common type of microUSB to USB adapter.
I bought the block adapter without thinking of the weight factor because it fit. And that cost more than the OTG cables!
Don't do it!
Listen to Renate. Unlike "normal" USB (-A, -B, mini-) connectors, those micro-USB connectors are usually just soldered to the top of the circuit board, instead of with a hole-through. Thus it is extremely easy to rip the connector of your PCB, and then you have a serious problem...
Don't worry, I've bought a OTG cable from China off eBay for 3 USD.
Related
The USB port on my HD2 (T9193) is basically shot. The clips that normally hold cables into it are all but gone, so any USB cable you plug into the phone falls out if you so much as look at it wrong, which is a real pain when it's charging, you pick it up to check something, and the cord just falls out, or you're trying to put files on it with a USB cable, bump it, and the USB cable falls out.
Anyone have any experience replacing this? What tools will I need? Where can I order the part?
Spike15 said:
The USB port on my HD2 (T9193) is basically shot. The clips that normally hold cables into it are all but gone, so any USB cable you plug into the phone falls out if you so much as look at it wrong, which is a real pain when it's charging, you pick it up to check something, and the cord just falls out, or you're trying to put files on it with a USB cable, bump it, and the USB cable falls out.
Anyone have any experience replacing this? What tools will I need? Where can I order the part?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you're an experienced soldering specialist than everything will be OK, otherwise I wouldn't recommend you even try!
Ditto, If you think you have the skills to micro solder it yourself, the connector is $8 on ebay, and the wiring diagrams are here:
www.ebay.com/itm/260913779440 microUSB $8
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=930412 solder point pics
If the connections still work, a better option would be to leave it as is for the occasional file transfer or flashing, and do the charging via induction. Amazon has the HD2 PowerMat Induction Charging Door for $6, and the base plus a somewhat universal microUSB door is going for $5 today at CowBoom (BestBuy's DailyDeal online clearance site).
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1561894 (LINK)
links provided in above thread if you want to mod the $5 droidX combo pack into the HD2's car docking port next to the battery.
I had a go on a cheap one I got from ebay, the usb port had fallen off.
The connections/soldering points are very small, I mean tiny, and really wouldn't recommend it unless you are very good at micro-soldering and have some good tools.
Peace
I've previous completed induction charging mods for my Nexus S, Droid, and Nook Color. My previous mod for my Nook has left a lot to be desired, though.
I picked up a iPhone 3GS Powermat for clearance a while back and decided to repurpose it for my Nook. So far I have all of the wiring complete (partially feeding off of the wiring from a working induction charging mod). The wiring is setup as the following:
- +5 and GND are taken from the powermat receiver.
- Wiring passes through to the micro-USB port.
Each step of the wiring seems fine - no shorts, right voltages when tested individually. I am running into issues with the final connection between the receiver and the micro-USB port, though.
Whenever the final connection is made, the powermat station is unable to communicate with the receiver. No lights, no sound. At first I though this was an issue with a faulty receiver - this idea fell apart when I tried 6 other receivers, all having the same result.
By chance has anyone attempted to use the Powermat inductive charging kits with the Nook Color like this? Any advice would be amazing!
Small update on my progress -
It seems that the Nook is attempting to draw too much current from the Powermat receiver. The base unit is responding to a handshake (had to probe the circuit board to detect it), but as soon as the receiver starts outputting 5V, the receiver itself shuts down from the current pull. I was originally thinking that if the nook does not detect the original stock cable, it would not charge at a higher amperage. Looks like directly connecting the +5V to the micro-USB's +5V pin can trigger it to quick charge.
As there seems to be not enough space for both the induction receiver and a current limiting circuit, I decided to stop using the Powermat system and switch back to my old circuit (modified Palm Pre circuit).
I did notice one thing during this attempted mod - the magnets that are found in the Powermat receiver/base are perfect for the Palm Pre Touchstone setup. I get a great hold while using those magnets without much effect on the Nook or the receiver/base combination.
Hopefully this small discovery will help some of the other hardware modders here. I'm definitely going to do more testing with standard USB cables to see if we can trick the Nook to quick charge.
I know your issue.
I won a powermat set up this morning from Duracell. Powermat, iPhone 4/4s case, and power pack. So as an Android user I immediately start disassembly of the iPhone case lol. took two minutes and a screw driver. It has the 30 pin male connector that sends power and a five pin femalemicro USB that receives power.
So I'm looking this thing over and thinking this is great, I'll solder to the USB Ports and hook it up to my i717.
Wrong.
The power output of the case is meant for iPhone which is different than that of my Samsung and any other micro USB device.
So next step, how to convert the output from apple to micro USB standard
What are the 4 metal dots on the left side of the N7?
trud9340 said:
What are the 4 metal dots on the left side of the N7?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pogo pins. Used for charging/data connection; you'll probably see docks released eventually which utilise them.
I assumed it was something like that, thanks.
http://www.pocket-lint.com/news/46308/asus-nexus-7-audio-dock
do we know what each of the pogo pins functions are? do they mimic the four pins in a usb cable?
Does anyone know which pins are for power, I'd like to build a case (3D printer) that can charge the nexus via these pins whilst I utilize the usb port for OTG flash drive access simultaneously...
Walmart
Walmart has charging cables for this on their display models, they are breakaway magnetic cables. I can't find a charger for sale though.
I bought a Nexus One with the infamous broken power button issue, and I am curious what would the effect be if I short the VCC and GND line in the charging port? Has anyone tried that? I am thinking that it will either fry the board or trick the phone to think that it is charging.
The reason I want to do this is because I travel a lot and I might not have access to USB charging if I want to swap the SIM card. I am familiar with the other tricks regarding remapping the trackball_center and I am going to install a version of CWM that doesn't support charging (that way the phone boots when I plug a charging cable).
So long story short... what do you think about attempting to short the micro USB charging/data port?
dcalpha said:
what do you think about attempting to short the micro USB charging/data port?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not much.
Unless the unit is in USB host mode there will be no voltage on the Vcc line.
Even in USB host mode it should be current limited and do no damage.
Still, I wouldn't do it.
I don't know why you think that shorting it will do something useful.
Renate NST said:
Not much.
Unless the unit is in USB host mode there will be no voltage on the Vcc line.
Even in USB host mode it should be current limited and do no damage.
Still, I wouldn't do it.
I don't know why you think that shorting it will do something useful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually do not know, thus I asked... just trying to think outside the box about a way to trick the phone to think it is charging short of carrying a portable battery charger with me (which can be problematic on carry-on luggage).
Another idea I am thinking about is building a small flex cable using a conductive ink pen that permanently connect to the phone's battery on one side and a cut down male micro-usb on the other side (to slim it down). Such cable would be small enough to fold under the battery cover and allow it to close.
My question is: Will the ~3.7v be enough to get the phone to start charging? and do you foresee any issues with feeding power from the battery right back into the phone's charge port?
dcalpha said:
Another idea I am thinking about is building a small flex cable using a conductive ink pen that permanently connect to the phone's battery on one side and a cut down male micro-usb on the other side (to slim it down). Such cable would be small enough to fold under the battery cover and allow it to close.
My question is: Will the ~3.7v be enough to get the phone to start charging? and do you foresee any issues with feeding power from the battery right back into the phone's charge port?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think 3.7 won't be enough. Coz usb giving ~5V. So phone won't charge at smaller voltage.
Well I finally got my Nexus 7 installed in my car dash.
It is being powered by the 12 volt socket from the pogo pins when the car is on.
I have the 3.5mm jack running to my headunit which is mounted under the seat acting as an amp.
Something strange is that before I connected my ground for the headunit, I plugged in the audio jack from the Nexus, and it turned on the head unit. It seems the 3.5 audio is grounding to the Nexus and turning the headunit on. I am sure this is part of the issue.
Everything sounds great when the car is off, but if I 1. put my lights on, I hear a buzzing, and when I turn the car on,
I get this high pitched squeal that fluctuates which the speed of the engine.
Would a ground loop isolator placed along the 3.5mm line help solve this?
Probably, but a cheap one is going to sound dreadful... fat, loose bass, and rolled off highs. Good audio transformers are expensive (which is what these are), and it will be much cheaper to install an isolated power supply. Google DaqStuff, they have a very good one for about 20 bucks.
Solutions Etcetera said:
Probably, but a cheap one is going to sound dreadful... fat, loose bass, and rolled off highs. Good audio transformers are expensive (which is what these are), and it will be much cheaper to install an isolated power supply. Google DaqStuff, they have a very good one for about 20 bucks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found the website but I'm not really sure what I am looking at haha.
Would I be installing the power supply for the headunit, the Nexus, or both?
Also, since I've never delved into this before, an isolated power supply, would it run off the batter of the car?
Jeremi1023 said:
I found the website but I'm not really sure what I am looking at haha.
Would I be installing the power supply for the headunit, the Nexus, or both?
Also, since I've never delved into this before, an isolated power supply, would it run off the batter of the car?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You want this one... http://www.daqstuff.com/400116_5volt_switching_power_supply.htm
It will power the Nexus via USB, isolating it from your cars electrical ground (you have a loop now between the electrical ground and the ground of the audio connection from the head unit).
BTW, there is one simple mod you'll want to make to this if you want your N7 to draw the full 2amps from the USB port, and that is to bridge pins 2 and 3 of the USB port. This is very easy to do with just a bead of solder over these pins on the underside of the circuit board where the USB jacks are mounted.
Mount someplace where you can connect 12v from your car to it, and run a USB cable from it to your Nexus. I mounted mine underneath my center console.
Solutions Etcetera said:
You want this one... http://www.daqstuff.com/400116_5volt_switching_power_supply.htm
It will power the Nexus via USB, isolating it from your cars electrical ground (you have a loop now between the electrical ground and the ground of the audio connection from the head unit).
BTW, there is one simple mod you'll want to make to this if you want your N7 to draw the full 2amps from the USB port, and that is to bridge pins 2 and 3 of the USB port. This is very easy to do with just a bead of solder over these pins on the underside of the circuit board where the USB jacks are mounted.
Mount someplace where you can connect 12v from your car to it, and run a USB cable from it to your Nexus. I mounted mine underneath my center console.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On my Nexus 7, the actual USB port is broken. I don't know what I did to it, but it doesn't do a thing when plugged in.
I have the power coming from the 4 pogo pins on the side of the Nexus. Will this mod still work with using the pins instead of the USB port itself?
What if I don't do the mod, and it doesn't draw the 2 amps, will it still draw enough to charge while in use?
Jeremi1023 said:
On my Nexus 7, the actual USB port is broken. I don't know what I did to it, but it doesn't do a thing when plugged in.
I have the power coming from the 4 pogo pins on the side of the Nexus. Will this mod still work with using the pins instead of the USB port itself?
What if I don't do the mod, and it doesn't draw the 2 amps, will it still draw enough to charge while in use?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The unit also has screw terminals for 5vdc out which you can connect directly to the pogo pins. In this case the USB mod is not necessary.
---------- Post added at 11:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:58 AM ----------
BTW the unit is fused on the input AND output sides, and the isolating module will absorb spikes as well. It is well made and will supply your Nexus with the cleanest power possible. It's quite the deal for twenty bones.
Solutions Etcetera said:
The unit also has screw terminals for 5vdc out which you can connect directly to the pogo pins. In this case the USB mod is not necessary.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So just to make sure I got this right,
the connectors circled in red would go to the pos and neg of the pogo pins on the Nexus,
and the connectors circled in yellow would go to the power and ground of the vehicle?
This would stop the alternator whine I'm currently hearing?
Yup.
Solutions Etcetera said:
Yup.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well thank you very much!
Glad I could help. I ran into this issue when hooking up a bluetooth receiver in my truck, where things like the door locks would drive it nuts. I was gonna build one but couldn't source the parts for less than this guy offers the thing ready made.