Related
Does anyone have experience using 3rd party chargers with the Treo Pro or HTC devices in general?
I've purchased a kensington 4-port USB wall charger. It's an interesting concept which allows you to plug in up to 4 USB cables (iPods, iPhones, Treo Pro) and only use one outlet. A neat trick when you have multiple phones and devices in your family.
My problem is that the kensington won't charge the Treo Pro. When I plug it in, the LCD lights up, but the charge indicator does not appear nor does the tone sound that it has been plugged in. Note, as far as I can tell the Treo Pro charger outputs 5v DC exactly the same as the Kensington charger.
I've read several posts that lead me to believe that HTC does something to their devices that only allow certain chargers to work or that their USB cables have a certain pin-out that allows them to charge. Anyone have any advice?
Thanks!
Well, I got my wall charger and car charger from Officemax. The charger brand is "Just Wireless". Both are working fine for me. Before, I tried to use the sync cable to plug the regular USB power adapter for wall or car charger, some work, some don't. It seems Palm modified the micro-usb cable...
So my suggestion, if you are looking for charger for Treo Pro, you should look for compable with Moto R9 (which using micro-usb plug, too) I used to have one Moto charger, It worked in my Treo Pro!
jbinmn said:
My problem is that the kensington won't charge the Treo Pro. When I plug it in, the LCD lights up, but the charge indicator does not appear nor does the tone sound that it has been plugged in. Note, as far as I can tell the Treo Pro charger outputs 5v DC exactly the same as the Kensington charger.
I've read several posts that lead me to believe that HTC does something to their devices that only allow certain chargers to work or that their USB cables have a certain pin-out that allows them to charge. Anyone have any advice?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's really nothing "special" going on here. It's all in the USB spec. http://http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Power
That said, there are few other devices that demand a dedicated charger (or a communicating host), so in that sense it is special.
The problem being that the TP won't draw more power than agreed upon with the host (or in this case the carger). And since your charger doesn't tell the Treo that is has power to spare, the Treo trying being a good little device won't start charging.
Now, for the charger to tell the Treo that it is, in fact, a dedicated charger and "go ahead, draw as much power as you want up to 1.8A" it would only have to short its data pins.
Now that is something YOU could do to get the charger to work with your Treo. Either open the charger and solder the data pins (the two middle ones in a normal sized usb socket). Or if you can't for some reason, slice a micro-usb cable open and short the two data (usually the thinnest (green/white maybe)) wires inside.
I got a couple of desktop chargers from ebay for about £8 each. Work fine.
frause said:
There's really nothing "special" going on here. It's all in the USB spec. http://http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Power
That said, there are few other devices that demand a dedicated charger (or a communicating host), so in that sense it is special.
The problem being that the TP won't draw more power than agreed upon with the host (or in this case the carger). And since your charger doesn't tell the Treo that is has power to spare, the Treo trying being a good little device won't start charging.
Now, for the charger to tell the Treo that it is, in fact, a dedicated charger and "go ahead, draw as much power as you want up to 1.8A" it would only have to short its data pins.
Now that is something YOU could do to get the charger to work with your Treo. Either open the charger and solder the data pins (the two middle ones in a normal sized usb socket). Or if you can't for some reason, slice a micro-usb cable open and short the two data (usually the thinnest (green/white maybe)) wires inside.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi!
Yep i just bought two kensington 4 port chargers and looks like it doesnt charge the TP
Im about to buy a microusb cable to do the trick you suggested, (i cant seem to open the Kensington 4 port!), any reference websites you could suggest that could explain abit more about the shorting of the data wires inside? Just like to read up abit more before the cable arrives
Thanks!
shorting two center pins solves problem
Thank you for the details. I was able to get two car chargers to work with Palm cables after opening them up and shorting the middle pins with a dab of solder. I opened up a non-Palm cable and discovered only two wires, red and white, and no surprise: it did not work even with the "fixed" adapters. So you need to have pins shorted, and a cable that can return the short to the Treo from the adapter, or if you have a cable with all leads inside you could short the two wires instead and leave the adapter alone. However, if you only have two wires inside the cable you would have to short inside the micro plug, which is a little cramped to work in. If you have only two wires in your cable (hard to tell really without cutting it open; too small to get a continuity probe in there), and/or an adapter without the pins shorted, the Treo will not pull current and charge itself.
The Wikipedia USB Spec referenced by frause above says in part:
" A Dedicated Charging Port can supply a maximum of 1.8*A of current at 5.25*V. A portable device can draw up to 1.8*A from a Dedicated Charging Port. The Dedicated Charging Port shorts the D+ and D- pins with a resistance of at most 200O. The short disables data transfer, but allows devices to detect the Dedicated Charging Port and allows very simple, high current chargers to be manufactured."
An interpretation of the reported observations and this spec is that a charger can communicte to the device under charge the maximum current the charger is able to supply. This communication occurs by the charger either "shorting" the data pins or not. Non-shorted data pins indicates that the charger is capable of at most 500 mA. Its possible that the Treo Pro(TP) is smart enough to know it should conserve power when being charged from a low current charger. One way for the TP to conserve power would be to not power the LED on the TP if there is only 500 mA available for charging.
NOTE THAT IF THIS INTERPRETATION IS TRUE THEN IT IS ACTUALLY DISADVANTAGEOUS TO ARTIFICIALLY SHORT THE DATA PINS.
Hi. I've solved the problem of using other chargers with GT.
Like Apple, Samsung used a little trick with their chargers.
To charge your GT with any usb charger you have to make a little adapter.
Usb pinout:
gnd d- d+ 5v
To work you must short d+ and d-.
From 5v use a 33k resistor to d+/d-.
From gnd use a 10k resistor to d+/d-.
If you have multimeter you should obtain ~4v between 5v and d+/d-; and ~1v between gnd and d+/d-.
I tested it and it's working.
Hi, it's not a trick but a standard. You only need to short d+ with d-, the resistors are not needed. Just be sure that the charger outputs closest to 5v possible, around 5.2~3 usually work for everything. About 5.6v and it start not to work on some devices, like apple..
Maybe, I have to test that
I know it's not a trick, I should wrote "trick".
For example GT adapter outputs 5.31v.
Apple adapter worked with 1 22k resistor between d- d+.
WarlockM said:
Hi. I've solved the problem of using other chargers with GT.
Like Apple, Samsung used a little trick with their chargers.
To charge your GT with any usb charger you have to make a little adapter.
Usb pinout:
gnd d- d+ 5v
To work you must short d+ and d-.
From 5v use a 33k resistor to d+/d-.
From gnd use a 10k resistor to d+/d-.
If you have multimeter you should obtain ~4v between 5v and d+/d-; and ~1v between gnd and d+/d-.
I tested it and it's working.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WarlockM said:
To charge your GT with any usb charger you have to make a little adapter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How can you do that? You need an extra device adapter? Please explain.
I've tested with d-/d+ shorted and it's not working.
@MizGarfield if u have 1 usb extension cable u can cut it on half.
Tie together white and green wires.
Tie black wires and conected to that 1 end of 10kohm resistor, the other end tie it to green/white wire.
Same to red wires but use 33kohm resistor.
See att. Sry for drawing.
bookmarking this for later use
WarlockM said:
I've tested with d-/d+ shorted and it's not working.
@MizGarfield if u have 1 usb extension cable u can cut it on half.
Tie together white and green wires.
Tie black wires and conected to that 1 end of 10kohm resistor, the other end tie it to green/white wire.
Same to red wires but use 33kohm resistor.
See att. Sry for drawing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't need that for modern devices has i told you. It did not work because you did it wrong. I have all my usb chargers working the new way, you even have wikipedia talking about it. You have to cut the data + and - on the power supply from the female usb port and short only the female d+ and d-. Trust me it works and it is alot simpler.
Edit : from wikipedia "The Dedicated Charging Port shorts the D+ and D- pins with a resistance of at most 200 Ω. The short disables data transfer, but allows devices to detect the Dedicated Charging Port and allows very simple, high current chargers to be manufactured. The increased current (faster, 9 W charging) will occur once both the host/hub and devices support the new charging specification."
""As of June 14, 2007, all new mobile phones applying for a license in China are required to use the USB port as a power port.[35][36] This was the first standard to use the convention of shorting D+ and D-.[37]""
http://apple.slashdot.org/story/10/08/03/1743240/Hardware-Hackers-Reveal-Apples-Charger-Secrets
""We all love to call out Apple when they design deliberate incompatibility into their devices, but there is a perfectly valid technical reason for what Apple is doing here, and, in fact, they are following a USB specification (which LadyAda unfortunaterly didn't even test).
Without data communications or when suspended, devices may legally draw no more than 2.5mA from a host, which is useless for charging. In fact, even if you're generous and pretend they're connected, devices are not allowed to draw more than 100mA without negotiating for a higher current, which requires actually talking to the host, and 100mA is still too little to charge properly. 500mA is the maximum allowed by the USB spec, but devices must negotiate it (there may be too many devices on the bus for negotiation to succeed).
Before there was a spec for "dumb" USB chargers, Apple used the resistors as a sentinel to avoid drawing too much current from undersized chargers in order to avoid damaging the host. This is a hack, but it works, and honestly, we're smart enough to figure out a couple resistors on the data lines. It's not like they're using crypto auth on the charger. They have a perfectly valid reason to do this. Devices which charge from "dumb" chargers aren't following the spec, though this is a common industry practice.
As it turns out, the USB-IF came up with a USB Battery Charging spec [usb.org]. The spec is long and boring, but it boils down to: short together the data lines (no resistors required) and you indicate that you're a dumb charger that can supply anywhere from 0.5A to 1.5A.
Guess what happens when you short the data lines of an iPhone 3G and supply 5V [marcansoft.com]. Did Apple just follow a standard? Incredible!
(Yes, I'm not following the USB spec there by in turn using a USB cable to supply the 5V and not negotiating over its data lines. I didn't feel like grabbing a dedicated 5V PSU for the shot, so sue me.)"""
http://marcansoft.com/transf/iphonechg.jpg
ok ??? no need for resistors, only 5.3V MAX and d+ and d- shorted
Thnx for the tip gonna try this later on my sanyo eneloop power booster tried it yesterday without this mod and it doesn't charge so gonna look for a AF to AF converter and modify it to gound the D+ and D-
@adolfotregosa
I tried again shorting d-d+, with iphone it works but with GT it's not working.
I use BatteryWatch and it is saying Not Charging. It's detecting the connection like usb port but is not. I use some device build by myself with 1 amp capabilities. D- and D+ r free of any connection and i can do with them what i want.
I dont say you r wrong but it's not working with GT.
Sent from my GT-P1000 using XDA App
but smt is wrong on your custom setup, voltage ??
EDIT: i just measure the original charger and it has no resistance between the data and power pins.
I think i know what could be wrong, when you plug in the Tab and it says not charging, how many volts have you got at that time ?
The original charger is very good because when it not charging the tab it has 5.3x volts but when you plug it in it lowers to 4.8x V Max and that is very good ! most chargers tend to lower much more (bad quality or just not powerful enough) and that is what causes the not charging messages on the tab or other devices.
Well i rest my case on this.
My device with no load it have 5.21v and with load 5.03v so it's not from him and i have another supply 5v/12 amp and it's doing the same (not charging, only with data shorted).
When u r trying to measure the original ps u can read ~7k between gnd and data but from 5v to data u cant because it have some capacitors.
Maybe samsund did something else, i have to try, maybe data pins drawing some current (mA) and that's why it's not working with only shorting them.
For the moment it's the only (working) solution i've found and i'm happy with it .
P.S. If i'm not finding anything else the last resort will be to open the original ps
Sent from my GT-P1000 using XDA App
USB Charger
This is what worked for me.
Items Needed:
USB Extension Cable
33k-Ohm Resistor (Shack Part No. 271-1129)
10k-Ohm Resistor (Shack Part No. 271-006)
Steps:
1. Cut USB Extension Cable in half, lets name the 2 halves, the half you will plug into the power suppy will be called "Cable A" and the half that you plug into the Galaxy Tab Data Cable will be called "Cable B"
2. On 'Cable A" strip outer plastic to expose all wires within, eliminate Green and White on this cable only as it will not be needed, leaving you with only the Red and the Black Cables
3. On "Cable B" strip outer plastic to expose all wires within, this should leave you exposing all 4 wires
4. On "Cable B" strip both the Green and White wires and join thes 2 wires with the 2 resistor ends (you should be using the resistor ends that have the red band with these wires), these can be joined by either soldering or just twisting together.
5. Strip Red wire from both cables and join together with the 33k-Ohm Resister (this will be the larger of the 2 resistors and should also be the end with the Gold Band) and as well join these together with solder or just twisting together.
6. Repeat the above process with the Black wires and 10K-Ohm Resistor.
7. No finally use Electrical Tape or Shrink Tubing to cover all your work.
This worked using it on a Champtek 5v 2.1a USB Car Charger and Home Charger. Also worked with iPhone charger. Also works with Original Galaxy Tab.
Hope this helps out.
May I just ask some clarifying questions?
rick75204 said:
This is what worked for me.
...
4. On "Cable B" strip both the Green and White wires and join thes 2 wires with the 2 resistor ends (you should be using the resistor ends that have the red band with these wires), these can be joined by either soldering or just twisting together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does it matter WHICH resistor you join to which of these two wires?
rick75204 said:
5. Strip Red wire from both cables and join together with the 33k-Ohm Resister (this will be the larger of the 2 resistors and should also be the end with the Gold Band) and as well join these together with solder or just twisting together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So that you have effectively bridged the red wire with 30K-Ohms to one of either green or white running to the TAB?
rick75204 said:
6. Repeat the above process with the Black wires and 10K-Ohm Resistor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And bridged the black wire with 10K-Ohms to the other of either green or white running to the TAB?
Would this be an accurate picture, with the 33K Ohm Resistor on the left, and the 10K Ohm Resistor on the right?
I think the intention was that you short the green and white wires together: so you are connecting both wires to both resistors.
That way the two data lines are both held at a fixed voltage of about 1.2V
Thanks, that clarified it.
I noticed today that if I connect my Tab to my keyboard (standard Apple USB KB with keypad, connected to a circa 2006 iMac), the device started charging according to battery stats. When it was plugged in it was at 48% and it ended up at around 60% after a few hours. Am I being deceived or something? I was under the impression that it would only charge if connected to the mains charger. Well I guess I'll see how long it runs now it's off the leash and see if it lasts till the morning (left my charging cable at work - D'oh!).
No, it definitely does charge even when it says it isn't - just slowly. I've got a 2A non-official USB charger that charges it up pretty quick, but still says it isn't charging. If the screen is off, it will even charge off one of those tiny Kindle chargers that must be delivering less than 500mA, but *really* slowly.
Clarify
Sorry guys, only a clarification.
As far as i understood:
the GT DOES charge with *any* charger (or connection to PC);
if you use the original charger (2Amp), it charges showing the charging-icon;
if you use a non-original charger, it charges in any case but NOT showing the charging-icon and depending on the charger power (even 1Amp charges, or 500mAmp, *VERY-REALLY* slowly);
if you use a non-original charger with the two resistors (33k + 10k) it charges showing the icon (even with a 1Amp).
Can anybody confirm if i understood well?
Thanks!!
eiem said:
Sorry guys, only a clarification.
As far as i understood:
the GT DOES charge with *any* charger (or connection to PC); Yes but slower than the original charger
if you use the original charger (2Amp), it charges showing the charging-icon; Yes, exactly
if you use a non-original charger, it charges in any case but NOT showing the charging-icon and depending on the charger power (even 1Amp charges, or 500mAmp, *VERY-REALLY* slowly); Yes.
if you use a non-original charger with the two resistors (33k + 10k) it charges showing the icon (even with a 1Amp). Depends, i get various results even though i am using the mod since day 1.
Can anybody confirm if i understood well?
Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats it for now.
It seems that the Tab could recognize the status of the usb connection by measuring the usb data rx/tx wire level. If it is not shorted, the "pluged in but not in charging" status will appear, as the mismatch voltage of the usb connection is made.
Sent from my XT701 using XDA App
I would like to charge my SGT 7.7 with the normal USB cable it came with on my pc; however, due to its lower mA output (USB standard is 500mA). The standard adapter it came with has 2000mA (2A) output, hence it detects and charges. However, I do notice that the unit charges at 1A with my iPhone charger, perhaps just a bit slower.
Anything we can modify in the rom to enable force usb charging? there is such a way in SGT 10.1 but I can't find a method similar to it on my 7.7
it charges when the device is in a powered off state... but very slowly
onicrom said:
it charges when the device is in a powered off state... but very slowly
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, it does.
But I would like to keep my device on while charging...
it's very slow because device detect voltage in data line. check out adapter in ebay.
Sent from my GT-P6800 using xda premium
zoftdev said:
it's very slow because device detect voltage in data line. check out adapter in ebay.
Sent from my GT-P6800 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah understood.
I'm using the Galaxy Nexus USB charger and it works well (1A)
but the iPhone 4S charger does not (also 1A)
kazuni said:
Yep, it does.
But I would like to keep my device on while charging...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine still charges even with the red X on the battery icon. Albeit, very slowly, and only really when the screen is off. Not bad for just listening to music while I'm at work!
USB charge adapter
To charge your GT7.7 using a usb cable you need to have an adapter.
You can make an adapter from the below parts. See attached images of the end result.
user rick75204 explains it best below.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=845844&page=2
USB Extension Cable
33k-Ohm Resistor (Shack Part No. 271-1129)
10k-Ohm Resistor (Shack Part No. 271-006)
Steps:
1. Cut USB Extension Cable in half, lets name the 2 halves, the half you will plug into the power suppy will be called "Cable A" and the half that you plug into the Galaxy Tab Data Cable will be called "Cable B"
2. On 'Cable A" strip outer plastic to expose all wires within, eliminate Green and White on this cable only as it will not be needed, leaving you with only the Red and the Black Cables
3. On "Cable B" strip outer plastic to expose all wires within, this should leave you exposing all 4 wires
4. On "Cable B" strip both the Green and White wires and join thes 2 wires with the 2 resistor ends (you should be using the resistor ends that have the red band with these wires), these can be joined by either soldering or just twisting together.
5. Strip Red wire from both cables and join together with the 33k-Ohm Resister (this will be the larger of the 2 resistors and should also be the end with the Gold Band) and as well join these together with solder or just twisting together.
6. Repeat the above process with the Black wires and 10K-Ohm Resistor.
7. No finally use Electrical Tape or Shrink Tubing to cover all your work.
USB Charging
Hi Guys
I recently bought a "Samsung Charging Adapter" from power gorilla for use with their portable power packs.
It is a usb adapter which when used in line with the Samsung USB cable, charges my 7.7 while I am using it from a 500ma USB port on my MAC ....
Philip
This works great for $7, has a switch to go from data to charging
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=160709394617
how do you force charge on Galaxy Tab 10.1??
razorwokid said:
how do you force charge on Galaxy Tab 10.1??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wrong forum Look in 10.1 development forum, in the thread for pershoot's kernel. Or buy one of the cables mentioned above.
morkli said:
Wrong forum Look in 10.1 development forum, in the thread for pershoot's kernel. Or buy one of the cables mentioned above.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the response
I have similar charging problem with the stock data cable, but I could be able to charge with a USB 2.0 mini USB cable with a Galaxy Tab to mini USB convertor as shown below.
And I even use an USB extension and it is charging up just fine.
I just ordered this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Micro-USB-t...-Galaxy-Tab-P1000-7500-7510-730-/170969489675
for $2.99 I hope it works. The things we go through in order to be not price gouged..
I have an existing HDTV (HDMI) adapter and its charging well with the included usb data cable of 7.7. :good:
http://www.samsung.com/us/mobile/galaxy-tab-accessories/EPL-3PHPBEGSTA
Although if you don't have it, it's not practical to buy one just for your usb cable to work for charging.
kazuni said:
I would like to charge my SGT 7.7 with the normal USB cable it came with on my pc; however, due to its lower mA output (USB standard is 500mA). The standard adapter it came with has 2000mA (2A) output, hence it detects and charges. However, I do notice that the unit charges at 1A with my iPhone charger, perhaps just a bit slower.
Anything we can modify in the rom to enable force usb charging? there is such a way in SGT 10.1 but I can't find a method similar to it on my 7.7
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
also would like to know how to force charge via USB I have gigabyte mainboards that have special charging ports that have 3x normal power .. but still can not get them to recharge my galaxy note 2 while its being used :S
strangely my old laptop with USB Ver 1 .. recharges the phone when in use ...
using Ubuntu and unsure if its pc sided software issue or android related issue
The device will certainly charge slowly via USB, although the battery animation may not show it.
You may use other adapters etc, but I'm fairly sure they don't actually work due to kernel limitations. Changes may need to be made within the kernel (same as SGS2) to actually increase actual charging current. SGS2 was set at USB 450mA. I'm sure I've seen the mod while searching github kernel source code.
Some of the measurement apps out their are quite inaccurate, and I have only used as I guide.
You could use init.d script to set on boot, but anything larger than 450mA could be just placebo,.... unless kernel enabled....
If I'm wrong, please correct me.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
Simple solution turn off ur tab then connect it to laptop/pc mac/imac it will charge normally
Sent from my GT-P6800 using xda premium
khanfuze said:
I just ordered this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Micro-USB-t...-Galaxy-Tab-P1000-7500-7510-730-/170969489675
for $2.99 I hope it works. The things we go through in order to be not price gouged..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is garbage. I had three of them and they all broke within a month.
This is what I use now. Built to last.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009I4HEOO/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My microUSB adapter coupled with the USB light is too heavy. I have to hold the nook upside down so that gravity will push down on the microUSB port. Furthermore, as mentioned in other threads, Android 2.1 doesn't allow the screen to rotate 180 degrees.
Do microUSB ports have a lock like Apple's dock connector? People have attached wriststraps to the iPhone's dock connector.
Is there another type of microUSB adapter I can get?
Oh, supporting your light off the connector is not a good idea.
Somebody should do a teardown on the glowworm to see if the LED is fed off a spare regulator in the TPS65921B (TWL4030).
Then you could use the stock glowworm software to control your light.
You wouldn't be using the USB connector.
You could either hardwire it or put a jack at the top.
I should check out making all 4 orientations work.
Sorry I'm not familiar with electronics terms.
I used the microUSB port after seeing this guy's photo.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1568995
Does hardwire mean solder the light like
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1423367&page=3
And putting a jack at the top means creating a USB port by attaching one to the regulator?
All these require drilling the holes in the case...
I don't like putting stress on the poor little micro USB connector.
I wouldn't ever use one of those block adapters that you use.
See the adapter in the attachment photo here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=26286972#post26286972
How about clamping the light on the top edge of the Nook and running the cord in the back?
It looks like the Nook Glow uses additional hardware for the power supply of the glow.
Yep I've seen those adapters before for attaching peripherals to phones and tablets. Before this I didn't know OTG was a common type of microUSB to USB adapter.
I bought the block adapter without thinking of the weight factor because it fit. And that cost more than the OTG cables!
Don't do it!
Listen to Renate. Unlike "normal" USB (-A, -B, mini-) connectors, those micro-USB connectors are usually just soldered to the top of the circuit board, instead of with a hole-through. Thus it is extremely easy to rip the connector of your PCB, and then you have a serious problem...
Don't worry, I've bought a OTG cable from China off eBay for 3 USD.
Charging faster by shorting data wires in charger cables.
I've seen recently on videos on youtube the practice of slicing USB charger cables and shorting the green and white wires ( slicing them, covering them with electrical tape)- the idea being the device's recognition of a possible data connection slows charging. There is also video of using foil on the larger USB end's central two pins (the data pins), to short that way. The videos are all old. In one the guy uses an app to tell us the amperage had increased from 4 amps (bull****) to 8 amps (bull**** more). ?
Questions.
Are the data wires in the charge cable always green and white? Really? Um..
Has anyone actually tried this?
thank you
(Edit: )
And the videos I referred to above-
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-9-rfImR86g
(Splicing wires)
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=eg4jF25AW4c
(Using aluminum or aluminum tape to short the USB connector itself)
another example- http://swimminginthought.com/fixing-usb-cable-making-fast-charge-cable/
Rubbish.
Even if you ruin a perfectly good cord, and do cut the data lines, it won't help. The data lines are not used by the charging circuitry anyway!
Also, some cables use different colored wires.
9volts said:
Rubbish.
Even if you ruin a perfectly good cord, and do cut the data lines, it won't help. The data lines are not used by the charging circuitry anyway!
Also, some cables use different colored wires.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if it has smart charger it might work. the data cables can create a resistance to tell the battery percentage. so when he creates a short, it sees a full resistance and it means fully discharged. so it charges with full amp.