Database Users

Securing a PCB

I'm planning to make a controller this summer, but the PCB I'm using is a lot smaller than the case I need to use. How do I secure the PCB so it isn't flopping everywhere?

Me, I'd just use hot glue because I have a gun right here.

I have a hot glue gun, too; would that hold it down securely enough? It's a fightstick, it'll get bashed around a lot. A bit rough.

If the PCB has mounting holes you can use screws through the case, a standoff or spacer and a nut.
If you want, you can countersink the case for flat head screws.
If you don't want any holes in the case at all, you can use one of my new favorite pieces of hardware, a "round base T-nut".
Glue the base to the inside of the case with epoxy and mount the PCB with screws.
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No mounting holes in it, sadly. If it helps, it's a 360 controller mobo.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app

obsidianchao said:
If it helps, it's a 360 controller mobo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that does help.
I would buy some rubber grommets that fit the two holes on the pointy ends and the two slots at the top.
I'd glue in (4) 1/4-20 T-nuts, use a flat washer underneath and a bolt on top of the grommet.
Shock mount and everything.

Oh, wow, that's perfect. Thanks!
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app

Double sided Foam Tape, or even Better Servo Tape
Servo tape is used to hold Down Servos in RC Cars, Planes, helicopters etc.

You've got me thinking, obsidianchao.
I can get a wired Xbox 360 controller at Family Dollar for $11.
I'm not sure if they implement the whole deal, but 11 switch inputs, 2 joysticks,
a headset interface and a UART would be a great deal.
I'm sure that the switches and things are not the best quality, but I wouldn't be reusing them.
Hmm...

Hot glue
Hot glue is the best idea...

I agree with the above posts that suggest the screws in the pcb and then to the box. It is likely not entirely a feasible solution if you have a pcb without holes for starters. I have no idea what your project details are to know whether or not to suggest to you drilling or punching holes in yourself (if that is the route you choose to take for securing that is)
I am highly against hot glue just because it firstly gives and no offense to anyone or their suggestion, just a messy quick solution which I again not knowing what you are working on or how much neatness and whatever matters to you. I have a particular way with doing stuff as neat and clean as possible in regard to stuff like electronics work but that is just me and not trying to be rude but the main glaring issue I have with the hot glue idea is the potential for the heat from the glue or gun to alter or damage the project board like if you have things on the pcb that could be compromised by overheating and what not. Nevermind potentially damaging via warping the PCB itself which can cause a potential project-in-the-can situation if you get me... and if you choose to glob tons of the stuff on the bottom of your project or however and stick it in, sure it will be stuck to the project box but I would say have a DMM handi to check values of circuits or damage/warping unless this is really not that serious of a project for things like neatness to matter.
I have to say that the double sided tape is a nice middle of the road idea that does not really compromise anything unless it is placed over any components that can and do radiate heat like if it is a power supply style project or things that could cause a melting of tape in places and potential icky smells to emanate from the project box
Though I probably caused some more confusion with my excessive analysis of the main suggestions, I hope it helped shed a bit of light on the potential dangers or things to look out for with whatever methods as to not ruin your hard work or compromise it. Just sayin..:good: :laugh:

I ended up buying a controller. It was on sale for $6.60, an XBox wired controller.
Not being a gamer I hadn't realized that XBox came in two flavors.
I took out the original cord and put in a USB cord.
It appears as a 3 port hub, with a vendor specific on the first port.
The other two ports are the "memory modules" and I may wire up regular USB sockets to that.
I'll have to find a driver for it.

[MOD] Bone Conduction Mechanical Audio Amplification

Introduction
As a Biomedical Electronics Tech, I have a great appreciation for human-machine interfaces. Interfaces must be tightly spec'd to the body or there is a loss of signal. One of the biggest complaints about Google Glass is the "crappy speaker". The speaker is not crappy, it's actually decent, it's just poorly positioned for just about everyone aside from Sergey Brin. If you have a larger than average head, you're out of luck because the Bone Conduction Driver sits on your Temple instead of your Mastoid (The hard bone behind your ear, used in Bone Conduction technology).
Well, you were out of luck... This mod can help you. After working on this for about a month, and much trial and error, I've come up with a near perfect hack for using Glass as a primary bluetooth headset and Pandora audio device. It sounds more like headphones and not a crappy cell-phone speaker sitting too far away. This modification can be undone easily, and should not affect your warranty.
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Do I need this?
How do you tell if the bone conduction speaker is operating properly? Listen for the click. Simply wear your Glass and press on the portion behind the ear. If you hear a well defined click, Glass is properly positioned. If you do not hear a click, you should perform initial adjustment of the nose-pieces of glass in order to reposition the unit. They bend more than you think. If this does not work, then you should proceed with the following modification. In my case, the Bone Conduction Driver sits over my soft temple, instead of the Mastoid bone and that's a problem because I can't hear it. If you have the same issue, then continue on.
You will need
You will need the following in order to perform the modification.
Tools:
1 Pliers $3 http://www.amazon.com/Anglers-Choice-PAC-600-Combination-Plier/dp/B0084EDOMK
2 Diagonal Cutters $3 http://www.amazon.com/Cutters-clipper-Diagonal-scissors-Grinding/dp/B00IVEFVDI
Expendables:
1- AO* Replacement Bayonet Temple aka. "Lever" $36 - http://shop.aoeyewearonline.com/Replacement-Temples-TMPLS.htm
1.5cm 1mm Digitizer Tape $3 - http://www.amazon.com/1mm-Digitizer-Incredible-Thunderbolt-Sensation/dp/B005GITURA
10cm Steel Hobby Wire $3 http://www.amazon.com/Gauge-Galvanized-Steel-Hobby-50134/dp/B002FY90L4
Performing the modification
You may be able to figure most of it out by this picture, but here are some instructions.
Place a V-shaped bend in the hobby wire. This is where the Lever will sit.
Place the glasses temple on the hobby wire
Using a pair of Pliers, twist the Hobby Wire to secure the temple to the thinnest portion of the Glass Body with the Lever extending past the end of Glass. Be careful not to twist too hard or the Hobby Wire will cause damage to Glass. From this point on, the lever is attached to Glass and should be handled carefuly
Bend the Lever so it is flush with the Glass Bone Conduction Driver. It must be entirely flush with a bit of pressure applied.
Place Glass on your head, and note where the Lever makes contact with your Mastoid.
Cut the Lever using a pair of Diagonal Cutters (dykes), approximately 1/2 inch past the contact point of the mastoid-lever contact. Try to remove sharp corners.
bend the end portion of the lever into a slight "C" shape, so as to remove contact with sharp corners. The C will be the Contact Surface for your Mastoid.
Apply the Digitizer Tape to the lever, in the area where it will make contact with the Glass Bone Conduction Driver
Before removing the Digitizer Tape Backing, ensure it sits flat against the driver with a slight amount of pressure applied to the end of the lever (simulating operating conditions)
Remove the Digitizer Tape Backing and press the lever to the Bone Conduction Driver
clip the Hobby Wire with the Diagonal Cutters so as to remove excess. You only need a ring of it.
Place glass on your head and press on the part behind the ear. If you've done everything correctly, you should hear an audible click when pressing and releasing.
IMPORTANT: Never pull to remove the Lever. Separate the lever from the speaker with a knife or needle, or other object. Pulling to remove the lever can cause the driver to separate from the coil. It can be glued back in place, but bad things can happen!
Troubleshooting
Just as Glass has its own adjustments to fit, this mod will also require adjustments. If things don't sound right, discontinue use and fix it with the following guide.
Sound isn't loud enough. You can move the lever closer to the back of Glass for higher amplification, or make the lever longer. But, there is a balance between pressure and amplification.
I hear pops in the audio. The pressure is too high, reduce pressure by bending the Contact "C" surface so it is closer to Glass.
Sound is muffled. If the lever isn't flush with the glass, then the driver can pop inwards.
I hear a click when I place glass on my head. There is too much pressure. Reduce pressure by bending the Contact "C" surface, so it is closer to Glass.
Certain high frequencies are causing a "ringing" sound. There is not enough tension on the fulcrum. the sound is caused by the Hobby Wire's movement. Tighten the Hobby Wire.
Conclusion
After this mod, the tones are richer, the bass can be heard and felt, the highs come across crisply, and the mechanical vibration gets amplified. This mod is everything Glass should have been, out the door. It's absolutely useful for calls, navigation, and Pandora after this. I hope this helps.
*AO stands for American Optics, not Adam Outler

Great find, thanks for contributing, we need more folks like you around here...
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

Nice Job Adam.! Now I have Glass Envy.
Christmas is around the corner and according to what others have often said about me, probably do have a big head to fit the standard model.

i don't own device but i know u and your smiles .. hope you my best bro . u are a genius man , be proud , i always wanna be like you and im trying

Moto G5 Plus - Removing the back plate?

Hey,
I'm studying the possibility of removing the back plate to hide the metal tab my magnetic phone cradle uses. Currently, it's just plain ugly glued on the back of the phone.
But even in teardown videos, they don't even touch the back plate. They work it all from removing the screen.
I know it's not removeable, but has anyone tried it, or seen someone doing it?
Thanks!

I don't think it's a "plate" so much as a "tub" into which the assembly is built/screwed. Not a removable plate like the G5 (non "Plus" model) has.

I can tell you that it's thin and a bit fragile. I keep my phone in my shirt pocket (screen to chest, of course). My buddy's 4 year old threw a toy at me when I wasn't looking... left a tiny dent in the back. I was surprised, but now see it has some room behind it and is very thin.

Just to be clear while other phones like redmi have motherboard mounted over bezzle and the back panel is applied over it
But in this case back is not a panel but its a tub so the motherboard is scrooved over the back tub and then bezzle is scaled
So if you wanna reach at back panel you have to remove bezzle then battery and after that motherboard. Then you will get the panel you want

critofur said:
I don't think it's a "plate" so much as a "tub" into which the assembly is built/screwed. Not a removable plate like the G5 (non "Plus" model) has.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Kekarot said:
Just to be clear while other phones like redmi have motherboard mounted over bezzle and the back panel is applied over it
But in this case back is not a panel but its a tub so the motherboard is scrooved over the back tub and then bezzle is scaled
So if you wanna reach at back panel you have to remove bezzle then battery and after that motherboard. Then you will get the panel you want
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, so that metal back is not removeable by any means? In other words, it's not just glued in, but fused to the case (like how it's on iPhone)?
From what I've seen, not only removing the whole innards would be a HUGE hassle, it seems it's thick enough to not be useful for what I'm trying to do..
They don't even pry it open to remove the camera glass... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKtAaniGGbU
If I'm correct, I think I've reached the end of it and have to suck it up with that ugly metal tab behind the phone, if I want the convenience of the magnetic phone cradle. If I'm wrong, plz correct me!

GTMoraes said:
Oh, so that metal back is not removeable by any means? In other words, it's not just glued in, but fused to the case (like how it's on iPhone)?
From what I've seen, not only removing the whole innards would be a HUGE hassle, it seems it's thick enough to not be useful for what I'm trying to do..
They don't even pry it open to remove the camera glass...
If I'm correct, I think I've reached the end of it and have to suck it up with that ugly metal tab behind the phone, if I want the convenience of the magnetic phone cradle. If I'm wrong, plz correct me!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Will you PM me some pics what you actually wanna do

Kekarot said:
Will you PM me some pics what you actually wanna do
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No need for a PM
It's a magnetic car mount, meant to be placed on air conditioner vents.
In order for it to function, there's a little round metal slab that must be glued on the back of the phone, or held inside by the case. It's really thin, so thin that the glue that comes with it is thicker.
The whole system looks like this:
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pardon the iphone. My metal thingy is as wide as the magnetic holder on the car's vent​
However, with the little metal thinghy glued directly to the case, it not only creates an aesthetic issue for me, but also creates a bump that makes the phone rest entirely over it and on the camera lenses, which royally sucks.
But as 50% (or more) of this metal thickness comes from the glue, removing the glue itself makes it pretty lean. But as surprising as it might be... it won't stick without glue. The only way to "fix" this is to either place behind the case or behind the back plate, which I used to do with my LG G4.
I thought I could remove the back plate of the G5Plus, place the metal thing and glue the back plate back, but from what people have been saying, the back is actually fused and not meant to be removed at all, not even for repair and maintenance by "authorized personnel".
I'm thinking that I hit a brick wall, so I must suck it up and order a case... If you have any ideas, feel free to share!

GTMoraes said:
No need for a PM
It's a magnetic car mount, meant to be placed on air conditioner vents.
In order for it to function, there's a little round metal slab that must be glued on the back of the phone, or held inside by the case. It's really thin, so thin that the glue that comes with it is thicker.
The whole system looks like this:
pardon the iphone. My metal thingy is as wide as the magnetic holder on the car's vent
However, with the little metal thinghy glued directly to the case, it not only creates an aesthetic issue for me, but also creates a bump that makes the phone rest entirely over it and on the camera lenses, which royally sucks.
But as 50% (or more) of this metal thickness comes from the glue, removing the glue itself makes it pretty lean. But as surprising as it might be... it won't stick without glue. The only way to "fix" this is to either place behind the case or behind the back plate, which I used to do with my LG G4.
I thought I could remove the back plate of the G5Plus, place the metal thing and glue the back plate back, but from what people have been saying, the back is actually fused and not meant to be removed at all, not even for repair and maintenance by "authorized personnel".
I'm thinking that I hit a brick wall, so I must suck it up and order a case... If you have any ideas, feel free to share!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you understand Hindi??
If yes watch this

My new V20 arrived with its camera glass cover part loose with weak adhesive-advice?

As mentioned at my long post at https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=73478114&postcount=45 , I noticed my LG V20 arrived with the following seemingly minor hardware issue..
When my V20 arrived I noticed the rear camera glass cover mound (similar to https://www.amazon.com/Unifix-Camera-Repair-Replacement-Silver/dp/B06Y3K831B but includes the LED cover that only uses adhesive tape visible at https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61vhxTdE-gL._SL1150_.jpg & below) was loose with weak adhesive, my compressed photo of it at (https://preview.ibb.co/cV6Qu5/V20_CAMERA_GLASS_COVER_ADHESIVE_LOOSE.jpg & below), but everything works & I don't think it's worth returning it especially if B&H doesn't have anymore https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1285961-REG/lg_lgus996_ausasv_lg_v20_4gb_ram.html so what do you think I should do regarding a better adhesive for it, if I can't find anything should I try a clear heated glue gun like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073Z5QNTD or just double sided tape as visible at https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61vhxTdE-gL._SL1150_.jpg to make it easier to replace should it ever break (although my case offers it some protection)?
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- Thanks for any productive advice

3m thin double sided tape
Autostore, wally world, target, kmart
Specifically get the thin version. It is what is used. Cheaper replacement kits use knockoff 3m thin tape.
P.S. easy with the links, killer.

elijah420 said:
3m thin double sided tape
Autostore, wally world, target, kmart
Specifically get the thin version. It is what is used. Cheaper replacement kits use knockoff 3m thin tape.
P.S. easy with the links, killer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL I love links..what's the problem with relevant links (don't have to click through them)..
My sister actually brought me over tonight some thin 3M double sided tape she had like at https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Removable-Double-Dispenser-667/dp/B00006IF63 but when I removed my new LG V20's camera glass cover part with my fingernail on the top edge, the adhesive on it already seemed stickier than the tape (which given the small intricate holes would not be easy to cut out at this point) so I didn't put the tape on tonight & used the adhesive it already had to secure it firmly down with some lens cleaning cloths. It's not hanging or very loose anymore but I can move it around a bit with my fingernails, is that normal?
She also brought me Elmer's All Purpose Gluestick like at https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Purpose-Sticks-0-77-ounce-sticks/dp/B000U6FJQE which seems easier to work with if the camera lens is avoided but not very strong & 3M Restickable Tabs for mounting like at https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Restickable-Tabs-Inches-R100VPC/dp/B007TUMWNM but she said that is significantly thicker than the tape. She also brought me a hot glue gun she borrowed from someone (needed it for something else)..
Mine only moves a bit now if I shake each side specifically with my fingernails (which I'll be cutting soon & would be difficult with short nails) but I can currently still remove it with my fingernails around its edges.. This LG V20's camera glass cover part no longer seems like it's going anywhere unless it's hit in the right crevice-angle or possibly dropped with enough top impact, is everyone's 100% unmovable even with fingernails inside its edges?
-Thx for any constructive advice

Do not use glue.

elijah420 said:
Do not use glue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Rationale for recommendations are also appreciated by anyone for this situation.
So far I haven't used anything except try to secure it better with its shipped adhesive with a soft lens cloth. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=LG+V20+US996 assured me this V20 was new before it shipped & when I received it I saw no evidence it was ever used except I noticed the camera glass cover part was oddly loose later hanging down a bit which obviously alarmed me hence my post especially after reading people had reported their camera glass easily broke. I had recently used glue elsewhere on a project so I immediately considered if it should be glued but decided to investigate the matter further before introducing anything extrinsic there.
I had wondered if there might be an advantage to the camera glass cover part being less rigid with such "flexible" adhesive to potentially absorb any shocks better but wasn't sure if that was just wishful thinking. I merely secured it down in its place with its own adhesive enough now that I'm not too worried anymore especially with the protective case but it doesn't seem entirely normal that I should be able to remove it along its edges with my finger nails in such a pliable way without getting some feedback from owners.
I speculate you might be familiar with reports that the camera glass part breaks easily & I'd obviously prefer to avoid damaging this otherwise cool-unique device.

Enough with the bickering here thanks...
Thread cleaned.

Xperia Z5 Thermal hardware mod

Hello Z5 users!
It's my first thread ever posted by me so please forgive my lack of knowledge in creating new threads.
Warning! If you decide to do that mod yourself, proceed with extreme caution, I'm not responsible for breaking your device as it's very easy to break something.
I decided to crack open my good old Xperia Z5 and do something to increase performance and improve heat dissipation.
Firstly, I spent some time in watching teardown videos to have a look at the cooling system. It features metal backplate behind an lcd and two copper heat pipes that are soldered to the metal plate. I took some pictures of cooling system:
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There is metal shielding above the cpu and couple other elements. Between the metal shield and copper pipes, there is an inefficient thermal filler, so I removed it.
Next, we've got the motherboard. The metal shield is held by metal clips, so you need a little bit of leverage to lift this up. Between the shield and cpu is a thermal pad (it's extremely thin) which I think is inefficient as well, so I also removed it. Instead of this thermal pad, I just used a little bit of thermal paste which I needed to spread on the cpu (it must be a thin layer). After closing it up, I had to use something to close the gap between metal shielding and copper heatpipes. Firstly, I used 0.5mm Thermal pad with better conductivity, but it was too inefficient. Eventually I sanded a little bit the shielding, it had that uneven surface as you can see on this pictures.
I do not recommend using "metal based" thermal pastes, they're usually conduting electricity and that is undesirable.
I didn't do any pictures inside of this metal shielding, because i added there some thermal paste before and if I opened that it'd very messy.
The uneven surface is the problem, the heatpipes are around 0.5mm higher than the metal plate that are soldered to. I decided to put copper pad. I didn't know the exact thickness back then, so I bought a 1.0mm one and it was too thick so I sanded it down so it'd fit, I found that it should be around 0.2-0.3mm - If you put too thick copper pad and screw the motherboard, it'll push on the backplate and on the back of the lcd too hard and the dark points will appear (I was cautious so i unscrewed it and sanded the pad, so my lcd is fine).
You can even sand a little bit the copper pipes, so the surface will be more even and flat, it'll improve the heat transfer a little bit. I've spread the same thermal paste on both sides and just put everything back together.
The heat is going from the processor to shielding, through the copper pad and finally to the copper heatpipes. It is better from the factory solution, because the heat is transferred almost only to heatpipes and the lcd will be a little bit cooler to the touch, because it's not touching the metal backplate behind the lcd directly.
Do not add that much thermal compound. Please, don't point to me, that I'm using too much thermal paste, I'm aware of that.
Also, I know that the heat transfer surface under the copper pad is terrible, but it's better than stock solution. I've tried using those "soft" thermal pads next to heatpipes to increase the surface, but in the end I discovered that the results aren't that better and the lcd was heating up much more.
And the results are in the attachments. I didn't do a before and after, I've based the improvement on the average points in benchmarks. So check your scores in those, and let me know your stock points, so I'll know better if the mod was worth it. The screenshots are from Geekbench, it's on google play
My antutu benchmark score =112612
Other users average score = 97159

Thanks man . Very nice work.

ouzqan said:
Thanks man . Very nice work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear it

Hi man!
can you share temperature results_?
first open phone, benchmark result and any game 10 minute

Verity. said:
Glad to hear it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome mod. Can you please do throttle test using CPU Throttling Test ?
If you want to compare I did it here https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...geos-17-1-sumire-stable.4049463/post-87250667

diimdeep said:
Awesome mod. Can you please do throttle test using CPU Throttling Test ?
If you want to compare I did it here https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...geos-17-1-sumire-stable.4049463/post-87250667
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I sold my Z5 three years ago. This cpu was known for overheating, throttling and actually burning itself to death (Nexus 6P and some other phones with sd 810)

Verity. said:
Sorry, I sold my Z5 three years ago. This cpu was known for overheating, throttling and actually burning itself to death (Nexus 6P and some other phones with sd 810)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I feel you. Do you recommend going through with modding like you did, or just get rid of this phone ?

I'd recommend getting a phone with a midrange cpu, something like snapdragon 730, 765g etc. These are energy efficient yet very fast and they don't heat up the phone that much. It's much better that way. And also get a phone with like 6gb of ram at least. I bought Galaxy A70 used a year ago, got it pretty cheap and I love it.

Cool work.
Software modding is also effective (and even saves accu battery), see
[ROM+KERNEL][UNOFFICIAL][11.0] crDroid
*** Disclaimer I am not responsible for any damage you made to your device You have been warned crDroid is designed to increase performance and reliability over stock Android for your device also attempting to bringing many of the best features...
forum.xda-developers.com