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Motorola Atrix 4G heatsink design idea

So I've been using the webtop and hdmi landscape mirroring a lot on the atrix and it seriously blows my damn mind. I mean it's so cool I want to cry. Anyway at 1.45Ghz with 1350mv it'll roll up to 77C while using it a lot. This phone is nothing short of a monster. The GPU/CPU are located benenth the SIM/ MicroSD card. I know the plastic enclosure is not very thermally conductive however heat is absorbing into the plastic. What I want to do is mod a heatsink for it that is a part of the battery cover that can be removed with ease. I do a lot of computer cooling stuff and know a lot about cooling. So what I wanted to do is use a extremely high thermal conductive sheet of 1/8" copper and a 6.0W/mK Silicone thermal pad to transfer the heat to the copper sheet which then it can be dissipated. In theory this should help at a bare minimum 2-3C however it may help more like 10-15C+. So I'm going to order all the parts and a new battery cover to mod and see if I can't get this phone to run 50-60C rather than 75-80C under load. Let me know what you guy's think!
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1chris89 said:
In theory this should help at a bare minimum 2-3C
May be achievable
however it may help more like 10-15C+.
Absolutely not going to happen without active cooling
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not trying to shoot you down, but sorry, you do not know as much about cooling as you think you do. Building a PC and designing the cooling system for it are a long way from what you are trying to do here. You are guessing at what your results will be without any thermal calculations or simulations to substantiate your "theory". The heatsink will initially give a very fast drop in temp, (probably so fast you won't even notice it), but as soon as the copper heats up, with no way to move that heat away from it you will not see a massive temperature drop. You may also find that your thermal pad will retain heat rather than allowing it to dissipate. The whole concept of a heatsink is to pull the heat out of something, and then rapidly disperse/dissipate that heat through cooling fins, a fan, liquid cooling, etc. If you have calculations, or anything which supports your theory, please post and I will look at them here. I work in R&D engineering, and we have a couple of experts in cooling systems in the engineering group that I could have look at this quickly.

There's not that much energy being created from the device. The main problem is the fact that the actual cpu/gpu "heatsinks" are under neath the plastic enclosure. Plastic has thermal conductivity of 0.25W/mK (very cheap light flexible plastic) to 1.05W/mK(thicker higher quality plastic). As you can see it's pretty high quality plastic. I wouldn't say it's 1.05W/mK but I think I'm safe to assume it's somewhere between 0.50W/mK and 0.75W/mK. That means that the plastic can absorb that much energy and has the ability to transfer that much heat respectively. The silicone thermal conductive material has a thermal conductivity of 6.0W/mK which can only absorb as much as the plastic can absorb. It then can transfer that much energy to the copper material. Copper has a thermal conductivity rating of 325-425W/mK. That makes it a very good material to absorb 500-850 Times more energy than the plastic is putting out. That makes passive cooling an excellent option. Since it can adsorb so much, it has no other choice than to dissipate from ambient temperature difference.
Later brotha

I say give it a they, I would work out some math first if you haven't already (which it seems you have). Ignore what others say, if you don't bother trying you never know, and if this comes at a minimal cost why not do it?

is this copper sheet outside the battery cover or inside?
also, what about the effects of signal degradation due to a large metal sheet covering the antennas?

Liquid cool this motha!
Phase changer.....with this motha?
Sent from my MB860 using xda premium

1chris89 said:
There's not that much energy being created from the device. The main problem is the fact that the actual cpu/gpu "heatsinks" are under neath the plastic enclosure. Plastic has thermal conductivity of 0.25W/mK (very cheap light flexible plastic) to 1.05W/mK(thicker higher quality plastic). As you can see it's pretty high quality plastic. I wouldn't say it's 1.05W/mK but I think I'm safe to assume it's somewhere between 0.50W/mK and 0.75W/mK. That means that the plastic can absorb that much energy and has the ability to transfer that much heat respectively. The silicone thermal conductive material has a thermal conductivity of 6.0W/mK which can only absorb as much as the plastic can absorb. It then can transfer that much energy to the copper material. Copper has a thermal conductivity rating of 325-425W/mK. That makes it a very good material to absorb 500-850 Times more energy than the plastic is putting out. That makes passive cooling an excellent option. Since it can adsorb so much, it has no other choice than to dissipate from ambient temperature difference.
Later brotha
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But passive cooling will not dissipate the heat fast enough. There will not be enough mass and surface area in the small copper sheet to absorb the heat and then dissipate 10-15+ degrees at ambient temperature (assuming your ambient being a normal room temperature), without something moving the air. Only one surface of the copper will be exposed to the ambient air also, with the rest of the copper sheet being enclosed.
---------- Post added at 04:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:43 PM ----------
sdlopez83 said:
Liquid cool this motha!
Phase changer.....with this motha?
Sent from my MB860 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This ^^^^^ LOL

If you need a quick start guide, I found this while searching for a heat sink last week: http://www.droidforums.net/forum/droid-hacks/84328-droid-heat-sink-mod.html

i'm sorry, but i have to agree with CaelanT on this one. Not only do i not see it dissipating heat as much as you think it would, i don't even really see it being all that effective. The best bet would be if you were able to get direct access to the CPU/GPU and have direct contact with the copper or with aluminum.... something. But if i'm understanding your diagram to be what i think it is.... i don't think slapping a copper sheet onto the battery cover will do jack for the actual operating temperature.
As it was said, It may absorb more heat, but there won't be any method of dissipating it rapidly enough to do anything worthwhile. MAYBE if there were some sort of fins on it like a computer CPU heatsink.... but even then, with nothing moving the air, and with no direct contact to the CPU, effects would probably be negligible at best.

Securing a PCB

I'm planning to make a controller this summer, but the PCB I'm using is a lot smaller than the case I need to use. How do I secure the PCB so it isn't flopping everywhere?

Me, I'd just use hot glue because I have a gun right here.

I have a hot glue gun, too; would that hold it down securely enough? It's a fightstick, it'll get bashed around a lot. A bit rough.

If the PCB has mounting holes you can use screws through the case, a standoff or spacer and a nut.
If you want, you can countersink the case for flat head screws.
If you don't want any holes in the case at all, you can use one of my new favorite pieces of hardware, a "round base T-nut".
Glue the base to the inside of the case with epoxy and mount the PCB with screws.
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No mounting holes in it, sadly. If it helps, it's a 360 controller mobo.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app

obsidianchao said:
If it helps, it's a 360 controller mobo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that does help.
I would buy some rubber grommets that fit the two holes on the pointy ends and the two slots at the top.
I'd glue in (4) 1/4-20 T-nuts, use a flat washer underneath and a bolt on top of the grommet.
Shock mount and everything.

Oh, wow, that's perfect. Thanks!
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app

Double sided Foam Tape, or even Better Servo Tape
Servo tape is used to hold Down Servos in RC Cars, Planes, helicopters etc.

You've got me thinking, obsidianchao.
I can get a wired Xbox 360 controller at Family Dollar for $11.
I'm not sure if they implement the whole deal, but 11 switch inputs, 2 joysticks,
a headset interface and a UART would be a great deal.
I'm sure that the switches and things are not the best quality, but I wouldn't be reusing them.
Hmm...

Hot glue
Hot glue is the best idea...

I agree with the above posts that suggest the screws in the pcb and then to the box. It is likely not entirely a feasible solution if you have a pcb without holes for starters. I have no idea what your project details are to know whether or not to suggest to you drilling or punching holes in yourself (if that is the route you choose to take for securing that is)
I am highly against hot glue just because it firstly gives and no offense to anyone or their suggestion, just a messy quick solution which I again not knowing what you are working on or how much neatness and whatever matters to you. I have a particular way with doing stuff as neat and clean as possible in regard to stuff like electronics work but that is just me and not trying to be rude but the main glaring issue I have with the hot glue idea is the potential for the heat from the glue or gun to alter or damage the project board like if you have things on the pcb that could be compromised by overheating and what not. Nevermind potentially damaging via warping the PCB itself which can cause a potential project-in-the-can situation if you get me... and if you choose to glob tons of the stuff on the bottom of your project or however and stick it in, sure it will be stuck to the project box but I would say have a DMM handi to check values of circuits or damage/warping unless this is really not that serious of a project for things like neatness to matter.
I have to say that the double sided tape is a nice middle of the road idea that does not really compromise anything unless it is placed over any components that can and do radiate heat like if it is a power supply style project or things that could cause a melting of tape in places and potential icky smells to emanate from the project box
Though I probably caused some more confusion with my excessive analysis of the main suggestions, I hope it helped shed a bit of light on the potential dangers or things to look out for with whatever methods as to not ruin your hard work or compromise it. Just sayin..:good: :laugh:

I ended up buying a controller. It was on sale for $6.60, an XBox wired controller.
Not being a gamer I hadn't realized that XBox came in two flavors.
I took out the original cord and put in a USB cord.
It appears as a 3 port hub, with a vendor specific on the first port.
The other two ports are the "memory modules" and I may wire up regular USB sockets to that.
I'll have to find a driver for it.

Overheating Nexus 4

I would first like to say that I understand that there are other thread out there on the subject of overheating. However most of the threads involve users with rooted phones and most of those threads are a year or two outdated.
I Have a Nexus 4 16Gb that was purchased 9-10 months ago Manufacturer refurbished ( Not bought through google however ) for my father who has used the phone for a majority of that time. Just recently it was given down to me as an upgrade ( I had a horrible phone prior ). As my father was not using the phone for anything intensive at all or using it for more than 5 minutes at a time the overheating issue didn't affect him much. Shortly after I started using the phone, the overheating issue really became a nuisance. I decided to run some benchmarks on the phone and track how hot it gets.
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The first picture shows a peak cpu temp of 86 Degrees C, after running Antutu5.7.1
Second pic shows a peak cpu temp of 97 Degrees C!!!, after running antutu a 2nd time
Third pic shows a peak cpu temp of 91 Degrees C, after playing Fifa 15 for 10mins. BTW: I was solely in the transfer market during that time, not even playing a game which would really put the cpu to work
All of this data comes from indoors with the AC on
The phone idles in the low to mid 40s, light internet browsing will get it to 54-57 degrees ( However use it for more than 10mins and it will hit 62-63 very quick ), and youtube at 63-65 after 3 mins
The phone is not rooted and is running a flashed image of 4.4.4 directly from google, However it was having issues before the phone was upgraded past jelly bean.
I cant imagine this is normal, is it?
What can I do to get it to run cooler?
How much will undervolting/underclocking help? (and how much will it hurt performance)
Is it time to Just upgrade once again?
Also can anyone point me in the right direction to a thread that will help me fix the problem hardware wise as I am replacing the battery because it cant hold a charge, maybe I should go a little deeper and give it some thermal help.
Thank you Very Very much for any help
PS: If the pictures aren't showing up for you, Im sorry. This is my first post, they are not working for me either. However my description of the tests and temps should be good enough.

Is the phone in a case?

nowster said:
Is the phone in a case?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally, however for the both the antutu benchmarks it was out of its poetic atmosphere case. It was in its case for the FIFA test.

Nexus 4 overheating
I had a similar situation, but it would only reach 93C if I use Faux Clock to disable the battery temp sensor, so it doesn't throttle and run antutu with CPU Burn, but during normal utilization or even heavy utilization, it never exceeds 73C. The issue is that the CPU never touches the phone chassis properly. To fix that issue permanently, I opened up the phone, removed the board and noticed that on the phone chasis were the board leans on the CPU side, it has an empty space like something missing. I fitted a small copper shim which is 1.5x1.5x0.5, I used thermal paste on both sides, on the SOC contact side and on the chassis contact side, then put the phone back and the temps dropped by 10-20C. The phone gets hotter across the surface instead of a single hot spot, but also delays the throttling mechanism by a good 5 minutes ( I disabled it anyways) and also noticed that the GPU wouldn't clock down anymore. I got those copper shims on ebay.

evolucion8 said:
I had a similar situation, but it would only reach 93C if I use Faux Clock to disable the battery temp sensor, so it doesn't throttle and run antutu with CPU Burn, but during normal utilization or even heavy utilization, it never exceeds 73C. The issue is that the CPU never touches the phone chassis properly. To fix that issue permanently, I opened up the phone, removed the board and noticed that on the phone chasis were the board leans on the CPU side, it has an empty space like something missing. I fitted a small copper shim which is 1.5x1.5x0.5, I used thermal paste on both sides, on the SOC contact side and on the chassis contact side, then put the phone back and the temps dropped by 10-20C. The phone gets hotter across the surface instead of a single hot spot, but also delays the throttling mechanism by a good 5 minutes ( I disabled it anyways) and also noticed that the GPU wouldn't clock down anymore. I got those copper shims on ebay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you I will certainly look into that. I called Google this morning and then was transfered to LG. I read somewhere that I may have luck getting a replacement outside of warranty, but the end result of that call was essentially "sucks to be you". If anyone else has anything else to add, please do. And if I could get pointed to a YouTube video or written instructions for getting to the CPU and setting a copper shim that would also be a huge help.
Thank you again

michael332332 said:
Thank you I will certainly look into that. I called Google this morning and then was transfered to LG. I read somewhere that I may have luck getting a replacement outside of warranty, but the end result of that call was essentially "sucks to be you". If anyone else has anything else to add, please do. And if I could get pointed to a YouTube video or written instructions for getting to the CPU and setting a copper shim that would also be a huge help.
Thank you again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are some tutorials around the web for that, just google Nexus 4 copper shim mod, they would even tell you which copper shim to get. Just get a standard copper shim with 1.5x1.5x0.5 dimensions, and a good thermal paste like the Shin Etsu or GELID Solutions GC-Extreme, don't use conductive thermal paste like Artic Silver, it is outdated and takes time to cure.

Applying thermal paste for LG G3

I want post a little tutorial for do it by yourself. Due to I don't have LG G3 working -obviously- I took the photos with old smartphone: Motorola Defy+, but you could see perfectly. Sorry my bad english, I try the best
Remove all screws in the back and keep safe. When you do it, you see the motherboard, something like that
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Remove all connectors: camera, microphone -top- and others connectors you can see
Keep calm, be patient and with something with little tip pry the motherboard. Now, separate from plastic cover. Be carefully.
Locate the top of the motherboard and flip it.
You will see your Snapdragon 801 core in the middle. I don't take photo about, before apply thermal paste, so sorry.
Like you see in the photo, apply thermal paste.
Be patient applying thermal paste, an excesive thermal paste can be worst. Obviously, you can use a thermal pad, but I use what I have XD
After these steps, you only need assembly again the LG G3. Put all screws in their holes.
Then, put battery and try to turn on phone
Like you are seing, the LG G3 goes perfectly.
Now, we're going to test CPU temp and other temps. I use AIDA64, Kernel Adiutor, CPU-Z and other. Now I use Aida64 for Android -obviously-
​To prevent, try to test camera, microphone, speaker etc. if it is poorly connected.
Thanks and sorry again for my bad english.
Cooming soon I'm going to use a heatsink case for avoid hight temperatures, but I'm waiting for its arrival. I buyed this heatsink for laptops: HERE I bought this in e-bay, so It is not expensive
Spanish tutorial here: HERE
This tutorial is longer than this, but in spanish. If you don't know spanish, try using google translator or other translator. Thaks.
Obviously, If you broke your phone due to disassemble is my fault and I will pay for a new LG G3, nope, sorry, for a new LG G4. It's my fault and I will pay you a new smartphone for solve this issue XD ​ :silly: :silly:​

Great tutorial. I was thinking of doing the exact same thing to my Note 10.1 2014 edition. Parts of it use to get way to hot. But, I found out the heat was caused by the battery somehow. Sounds a bit odd. But after recalibrating the battery in the OS, it stopped getting hot. And it stopped turning off after a certain point. It works like new. But, I am still going to do the thermal past and heatsink thing any way. A cooler processor and other components means a more efficient and longer running device.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

i have done this and it works great but if u apply only thermal paste it wont be much effective so u should apply thermal gel and a thermal pad of 0.5 mm thickness.then ur lg g3 will fly.it wont heat even with intensive heavy use.i recommend using thermal gel and thermal pad.

Do not do that.. It is mentioned that thermal paste and thermal pads especially have metal components that interfere with the signal reception . Thats why lg uses a special one. Also you will see that your monitor will be hotter and your back will be cooler. Stay as you were is my personal opinion.

i have not faced any signal issue so dont know about that problem.ofcourse the screen will get hot as thermal pad and paste is transferring the heat towards the metal frame.and display is also located there.have been using it for 4-5 mnths.no probs so far but great perofrmance and low temps.
i recommend this method for heavy gamers only as for normal usage g3 wont get so hot.
and i also recommend to buy a thermal pad and paste carefully cause many could cause probs.
i use mx 4 thermal paste and pad.its the best and even if it does you know flow down to other parts of the board it wont cause any reaction.
you can read about mx4 paste in there website.

Awesome idea but my g3 only gets hot when charging so in not gonna try this [emoji14]
Someone should try this on phone with the earlier versions of the 810 with thermal issues like a LG gflex 2 and see what happens [emoji14]
Sent from my LG-VS985 using Tapatalk

morfeas-dsl- said:
Do not do that.. It is mentioned that thermal paste and thermal pads especially have metal components that interfere with the signal reception . Thats why lg uses a special one. Also you will see that your monitor will be hotter and your back will be cooler. Stay as you were is my personal opinion.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interference would happen only if you put the thermal paste or any pad with metallic substance unit over the antenna that is in use. other than that if the thermal paste is on only the components that are getting hot chances are it will not be directly over or even near the antenna components.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
---------- Post added at 11:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:37 AM ----------
clapper6601 said:
Awesome idea but my g3 only gets hot when charging so in not gonna try this [emoji14]
Someone should try this on phone with the earlier versions of the 810 with thermal issues like a LG gflex 2 and see what happens [emoji14]
Sent from my LG-VS985 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is it your battery that gets hot when you charge? Or is it your phone's components that get hot when you charge? If it is your battery that is getting hot while you charge then you need to get a new battery that one is most likely on its way out. Or there is a possible bad connection between the charging circuit and the battery itself spirit
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Just got my G3 tonight.
Will try this mod soon!

Sorry for long time. Now I don't have LG G3 I returned to Amazon due to alone reboots with no reasons. After a little battle with the technical service, they said that guarantee doesn't cover my alone reboots WTF? I fought with them, and after various claims, they said that I had wet the phone " Obviously it's for doesn't pay me another LG G3, I think...I don't know real reason, but I saw a day before how motherboard was, and it wasn't wet.
This mod goes well, but you be need carefully to do. Only do if you suffer overheat problems or you're a heavy gamer with the LG G3. I use a heatsink, I do not do it for nothing, I do it because I was waiting for my heatsink, only do it if you have a heatsink, only thermal paste don't do much more, but you can see a little improvement -without heatsink-.
If you have any question, be free to ask me, and I answer you as soon as possible...If I remember, I can or if OVNIS doesn't kidnap me ha ha ha.

There is another thread regarding cooling paste here if there are anymore questions

My new V20 arrived with its camera glass cover part loose with weak adhesive-advice?

As mentioned at my long post at https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=73478114&postcount=45 , I noticed my LG V20 arrived with the following seemingly minor hardware issue..
When my V20 arrived I noticed the rear camera glass cover mound (similar to https://www.amazon.com/Unifix-Camera-Repair-Replacement-Silver/dp/B06Y3K831B but includes the LED cover that only uses adhesive tape visible at https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61vhxTdE-gL._SL1150_.jpg & below) was loose with weak adhesive, my compressed photo of it at (https://preview.ibb.co/cV6Qu5/V20_CAMERA_GLASS_COVER_ADHESIVE_LOOSE.jpg & below), but everything works & I don't think it's worth returning it especially if B&H doesn't have anymore https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1285961-REG/lg_lgus996_ausasv_lg_v20_4gb_ram.html so what do you think I should do regarding a better adhesive for it, if I can't find anything should I try a clear heated glue gun like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073Z5QNTD or just double sided tape as visible at https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61vhxTdE-gL._SL1150_.jpg to make it easier to replace should it ever break (although my case offers it some protection)?
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- Thanks for any productive advice

3m thin double sided tape
Autostore, wally world, target, kmart
Specifically get the thin version. It is what is used. Cheaper replacement kits use knockoff 3m thin tape.
P.S. easy with the links, killer.

elijah420 said:
3m thin double sided tape
Autostore, wally world, target, kmart
Specifically get the thin version. It is what is used. Cheaper replacement kits use knockoff 3m thin tape.
P.S. easy with the links, killer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL I love links..what's the problem with relevant links (don't have to click through them)..
My sister actually brought me over tonight some thin 3M double sided tape she had like at https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Removable-Double-Dispenser-667/dp/B00006IF63 but when I removed my new LG V20's camera glass cover part with my fingernail on the top edge, the adhesive on it already seemed stickier than the tape (which given the small intricate holes would not be easy to cut out at this point) so I didn't put the tape on tonight & used the adhesive it already had to secure it firmly down with some lens cleaning cloths. It's not hanging or very loose anymore but I can move it around a bit with my fingernails, is that normal?
She also brought me Elmer's All Purpose Gluestick like at https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Purpose-Sticks-0-77-ounce-sticks/dp/B000U6FJQE which seems easier to work with if the camera lens is avoided but not very strong & 3M Restickable Tabs for mounting like at https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Restickable-Tabs-Inches-R100VPC/dp/B007TUMWNM but she said that is significantly thicker than the tape. She also brought me a hot glue gun she borrowed from someone (needed it for something else)..
Mine only moves a bit now if I shake each side specifically with my fingernails (which I'll be cutting soon & would be difficult with short nails) but I can currently still remove it with my fingernails around its edges.. This LG V20's camera glass cover part no longer seems like it's going anywhere unless it's hit in the right crevice-angle or possibly dropped with enough top impact, is everyone's 100% unmovable even with fingernails inside its edges?
-Thx for any constructive advice

Do not use glue.

elijah420 said:
Do not use glue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Rationale for recommendations are also appreciated by anyone for this situation.
So far I haven't used anything except try to secure it better with its shipped adhesive with a soft lens cloth. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=LG+V20+US996 assured me this V20 was new before it shipped & when I received it I saw no evidence it was ever used except I noticed the camera glass cover part was oddly loose later hanging down a bit which obviously alarmed me hence my post especially after reading people had reported their camera glass easily broke. I had recently used glue elsewhere on a project so I immediately considered if it should be glued but decided to investigate the matter further before introducing anything extrinsic there.
I had wondered if there might be an advantage to the camera glass cover part being less rigid with such "flexible" adhesive to potentially absorb any shocks better but wasn't sure if that was just wishful thinking. I merely secured it down in its place with its own adhesive enough now that I'm not too worried anymore especially with the protective case but it doesn't seem entirely normal that I should be able to remove it along its edges with my finger nails in such a pliable way without getting some feedback from owners.
I speculate you might be familiar with reports that the camera glass part breaks easily & I'd obviously prefer to avoid damaging this otherwise cool-unique device.

Enough with the bickering here thanks...
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