Database Users

[Q] Changing the battery for Acer A500

Batteries performance degrade overtime so are we able to change A500 battery if it is degraded or can we even upgrade it with a higher capcity in order to achive better performance?
Is their a tutorial for such procedure?
UPDATE: I would like to thank bvdrax for his help we are one stop closer to understanding our tablets

majidessa said:
Batteries performance degrade overtime so are we able to change A500 battery if it is degraded or can we even upgrade it with a higher capcity in order to achive better performance?
Is their a tutorial for such procedure?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was thinking about that this past weekend. That's one of the few things that I would like, that it currently doesn't have (a user replaceable battery). Although, I would imagine that we could find a battery that would work with it and replace it, if we didn't mind opening it up and voiding the warranty!

JackMetal said:
I was thinking about that this past weekend. That's one of the few things that I would like, that it currently doesn't have (a user replaceable battery). Although, I would imagine that we could find a battery that would work with it and replace it, if we didn't mind opening it up and voiding the warranty!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course the battery may be soldered in, at which point even if getting the case apart without an issue is easy enough a soldering job would be needed. I would guess the warranty would be long since over by the time our batteries start going.
Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using XDA App

google openiong iconia or something like that
There is a walk thru I Sen a week or so ago on replacing battery and so on. I think this device snaps together at the seems at top and bottom. Ibhave notices the button of mine is a bit wider crack then the top. So I do think this makes sense.

By the time my A500's battery dies enough for me to care, I fully expect to have replaced the tablet itself. My Droid's 2yo battery hilds up fine still under much harder use (including hotter processor and case temps from overclocking and from living in a car mount.)

There is a post on androidtablets.net that shows the tablet partly dissembled. I can't post the link because I don't have 8 posts.

I pulled the battery out of mine just now. It is not soldered in. The case came apart very easily using a pampered chef plastic orange peeler, and just easing it into the seam and following it around.
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bvdrax said:
I pulled the battery out of mine just now. It is not soldered in. The case came apart very easily using a pampered chef plastic orange peeler, and just easing it into the seam and following it around.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The back of my box said 3260mAh x 2 ( 24.1 Wh ) ... is there 2 batteries ??
you mind taking pictures showing the steps of dissecting this baby ??
BTW ... that attached pic is way too small to see anything ( at least I saw the plug...that's a good thing )

Once I find the good camera I will take some better pics of how to tear it apart.
Try the link below for a better pic.
I am pretty sure this little plastic job has 2 batteries in it, as it looks to be segmented into two compartments. Also, the leads seam to indicate two batteries.
HTML:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tCpBFxsk1gBKpCr9vN-Z38CHbw16BN85JIFK8cJrdOQ?feat=directlink

^ 2 cells, not 2 batteries. A battery is merely the word for a collection of cells.

Here is a quick video of me cracking my A500 apart. Also, I have some better pictures of the inside with and without the battery and the battery itself.
http://youtu.be/MIvbWo_p3KI
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/AywLT6kob_wkcgtmStMZp8CHbw16BN85JIFK8cJrdOQ?feat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/nOaHYqR0esfx-X7H1L_r6MCHbw16BN85JIFK8cJrdOQ?feat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/5TUY_BB_osgg7HeN_wj8h8CHbw16BN85JIFK8cJrdOQ?feat=directlink

Thanks for the pic/video bvdrax
still not seeing 2x battery ... and it said Lithium Ion on the battery ...while it said Lithium Polymer on the box ..etc
Li-Ion & Li-Polymer are similar but different.
Whatever
at least it's not solder on.

bvdrax said:
Here is a quick video of me cracking my A500 apart. Also, I have some better pictures of the inside with and without the battery and the battery itself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you in behalf of all the Acer Iconia owners who are curious to see how we can crack this one open. You are one brave individual for trying and succeeding and making it possible for us to see how easy it is to do so. More reason to love the Iconia, replaceable battery!

Let us know if you find a Mini PCI-E slot while you're digging in there.

thanks BVDRAX! Great job man!

The average Li-on battery carries a ~3 year useful life. More likely than not, three years from now most of us will have a different tab and you'll still be able to use yours over a/c.

netham45 said:
Let us know if you find a Mini PCI-E slot while you're digging in there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you look at the 3rd link (or second link in the stills) there is a spot for a standard mini pci-e card, however there is no socket installed and looks like there is a number of electronic compnents missing which are associated with it

You are a brave soul. Thanks for risking your warranty to show us how to do this!

thx bvdrax!

Wow, great video and pics. Thanks a lot, good to know whats in there and how to get there.

Motorola Atrix 4G heatsink design idea

So I've been using the webtop and hdmi landscape mirroring a lot on the atrix and it seriously blows my damn mind. I mean it's so cool I want to cry. Anyway at 1.45Ghz with 1350mv it'll roll up to 77C while using it a lot. This phone is nothing short of a monster. The GPU/CPU are located benenth the SIM/ MicroSD card. I know the plastic enclosure is not very thermally conductive however heat is absorbing into the plastic. What I want to do is mod a heatsink for it that is a part of the battery cover that can be removed with ease. I do a lot of computer cooling stuff and know a lot about cooling. So what I wanted to do is use a extremely high thermal conductive sheet of 1/8" copper and a 6.0W/mK Silicone thermal pad to transfer the heat to the copper sheet which then it can be dissipated. In theory this should help at a bare minimum 2-3C however it may help more like 10-15C+. So I'm going to order all the parts and a new battery cover to mod and see if I can't get this phone to run 50-60C rather than 75-80C under load. Let me know what you guy's think!
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1chris89 said:
In theory this should help at a bare minimum 2-3C
May be achievable
however it may help more like 10-15C+.
Absolutely not going to happen without active cooling
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not trying to shoot you down, but sorry, you do not know as much about cooling as you think you do. Building a PC and designing the cooling system for it are a long way from what you are trying to do here. You are guessing at what your results will be without any thermal calculations or simulations to substantiate your "theory". The heatsink will initially give a very fast drop in temp, (probably so fast you won't even notice it), but as soon as the copper heats up, with no way to move that heat away from it you will not see a massive temperature drop. You may also find that your thermal pad will retain heat rather than allowing it to dissipate. The whole concept of a heatsink is to pull the heat out of something, and then rapidly disperse/dissipate that heat through cooling fins, a fan, liquid cooling, etc. If you have calculations, or anything which supports your theory, please post and I will look at them here. I work in R&D engineering, and we have a couple of experts in cooling systems in the engineering group that I could have look at this quickly.

There's not that much energy being created from the device. The main problem is the fact that the actual cpu/gpu "heatsinks" are under neath the plastic enclosure. Plastic has thermal conductivity of 0.25W/mK (very cheap light flexible plastic) to 1.05W/mK(thicker higher quality plastic). As you can see it's pretty high quality plastic. I wouldn't say it's 1.05W/mK but I think I'm safe to assume it's somewhere between 0.50W/mK and 0.75W/mK. That means that the plastic can absorb that much energy and has the ability to transfer that much heat respectively. The silicone thermal conductive material has a thermal conductivity of 6.0W/mK which can only absorb as much as the plastic can absorb. It then can transfer that much energy to the copper material. Copper has a thermal conductivity rating of 325-425W/mK. That makes it a very good material to absorb 500-850 Times more energy than the plastic is putting out. That makes passive cooling an excellent option. Since it can adsorb so much, it has no other choice than to dissipate from ambient temperature difference.
Later brotha

I say give it a they, I would work out some math first if you haven't already (which it seems you have). Ignore what others say, if you don't bother trying you never know, and if this comes at a minimal cost why not do it?

is this copper sheet outside the battery cover or inside?
also, what about the effects of signal degradation due to a large metal sheet covering the antennas?

Liquid cool this motha!
Phase changer.....with this motha?
Sent from my MB860 using xda premium

1chris89 said:
There's not that much energy being created from the device. The main problem is the fact that the actual cpu/gpu "heatsinks" are under neath the plastic enclosure. Plastic has thermal conductivity of 0.25W/mK (very cheap light flexible plastic) to 1.05W/mK(thicker higher quality plastic). As you can see it's pretty high quality plastic. I wouldn't say it's 1.05W/mK but I think I'm safe to assume it's somewhere between 0.50W/mK and 0.75W/mK. That means that the plastic can absorb that much energy and has the ability to transfer that much heat respectively. The silicone thermal conductive material has a thermal conductivity of 6.0W/mK which can only absorb as much as the plastic can absorb. It then can transfer that much energy to the copper material. Copper has a thermal conductivity rating of 325-425W/mK. That makes it a very good material to absorb 500-850 Times more energy than the plastic is putting out. That makes passive cooling an excellent option. Since it can adsorb so much, it has no other choice than to dissipate from ambient temperature difference.
Later brotha
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Click to collapse
But passive cooling will not dissipate the heat fast enough. There will not be enough mass and surface area in the small copper sheet to absorb the heat and then dissipate 10-15+ degrees at ambient temperature (assuming your ambient being a normal room temperature), without something moving the air. Only one surface of the copper will be exposed to the ambient air also, with the rest of the copper sheet being enclosed.
---------- Post added at 04:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:43 PM ----------
sdlopez83 said:
Liquid cool this motha!
Phase changer.....with this motha?
Sent from my MB860 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This ^^^^^ LOL

If you need a quick start guide, I found this while searching for a heat sink last week: http://www.droidforums.net/forum/droid-hacks/84328-droid-heat-sink-mod.html

i'm sorry, but i have to agree with CaelanT on this one. Not only do i not see it dissipating heat as much as you think it would, i don't even really see it being all that effective. The best bet would be if you were able to get direct access to the CPU/GPU and have direct contact with the copper or with aluminum.... something. But if i'm understanding your diagram to be what i think it is.... i don't think slapping a copper sheet onto the battery cover will do jack for the actual operating temperature.
As it was said, It may absorb more heat, but there won't be any method of dissipating it rapidly enough to do anything worthwhile. MAYBE if there were some sort of fins on it like a computer CPU heatsink.... but even then, with nothing moving the air, and with no direct contact to the CPU, effects would probably be negligible at best.

Overheating Nexus 4

I would first like to say that I understand that there are other thread out there on the subject of overheating. However most of the threads involve users with rooted phones and most of those threads are a year or two outdated.
I Have a Nexus 4 16Gb that was purchased 9-10 months ago Manufacturer refurbished ( Not bought through google however ) for my father who has used the phone for a majority of that time. Just recently it was given down to me as an upgrade ( I had a horrible phone prior ). As my father was not using the phone for anything intensive at all or using it for more than 5 minutes at a time the overheating issue didn't affect him much. Shortly after I started using the phone, the overheating issue really became a nuisance. I decided to run some benchmarks on the phone and track how hot it gets.
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The first picture shows a peak cpu temp of 86 Degrees C, after running Antutu5.7.1
Second pic shows a peak cpu temp of 97 Degrees C!!!, after running antutu a 2nd time
Third pic shows a peak cpu temp of 91 Degrees C, after playing Fifa 15 for 10mins. BTW: I was solely in the transfer market during that time, not even playing a game which would really put the cpu to work
All of this data comes from indoors with the AC on
The phone idles in the low to mid 40s, light internet browsing will get it to 54-57 degrees ( However use it for more than 10mins and it will hit 62-63 very quick ), and youtube at 63-65 after 3 mins
The phone is not rooted and is running a flashed image of 4.4.4 directly from google, However it was having issues before the phone was upgraded past jelly bean.
I cant imagine this is normal, is it?
What can I do to get it to run cooler?
How much will undervolting/underclocking help? (and how much will it hurt performance)
Is it time to Just upgrade once again?
Also can anyone point me in the right direction to a thread that will help me fix the problem hardware wise as I am replacing the battery because it cant hold a charge, maybe I should go a little deeper and give it some thermal help.
Thank you Very Very much for any help
PS: If the pictures aren't showing up for you, Im sorry. This is my first post, they are not working for me either. However my description of the tests and temps should be good enough.

Is the phone in a case?

nowster said:
Is the phone in a case?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally, however for the both the antutu benchmarks it was out of its poetic atmosphere case. It was in its case for the FIFA test.

Nexus 4 overheating
I had a similar situation, but it would only reach 93C if I use Faux Clock to disable the battery temp sensor, so it doesn't throttle and run antutu with CPU Burn, but during normal utilization or even heavy utilization, it never exceeds 73C. The issue is that the CPU never touches the phone chassis properly. To fix that issue permanently, I opened up the phone, removed the board and noticed that on the phone chasis were the board leans on the CPU side, it has an empty space like something missing. I fitted a small copper shim which is 1.5x1.5x0.5, I used thermal paste on both sides, on the SOC contact side and on the chassis contact side, then put the phone back and the temps dropped by 10-20C. The phone gets hotter across the surface instead of a single hot spot, but also delays the throttling mechanism by a good 5 minutes ( I disabled it anyways) and also noticed that the GPU wouldn't clock down anymore. I got those copper shims on ebay.

evolucion8 said:
I had a similar situation, but it would only reach 93C if I use Faux Clock to disable the battery temp sensor, so it doesn't throttle and run antutu with CPU Burn, but during normal utilization or even heavy utilization, it never exceeds 73C. The issue is that the CPU never touches the phone chassis properly. To fix that issue permanently, I opened up the phone, removed the board and noticed that on the phone chasis were the board leans on the CPU side, it has an empty space like something missing. I fitted a small copper shim which is 1.5x1.5x0.5, I used thermal paste on both sides, on the SOC contact side and on the chassis contact side, then put the phone back and the temps dropped by 10-20C. The phone gets hotter across the surface instead of a single hot spot, but also delays the throttling mechanism by a good 5 minutes ( I disabled it anyways) and also noticed that the GPU wouldn't clock down anymore. I got those copper shims on ebay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you I will certainly look into that. I called Google this morning and then was transfered to LG. I read somewhere that I may have luck getting a replacement outside of warranty, but the end result of that call was essentially "sucks to be you". If anyone else has anything else to add, please do. And if I could get pointed to a YouTube video or written instructions for getting to the CPU and setting a copper shim that would also be a huge help.
Thank you again

michael332332 said:
Thank you I will certainly look into that. I called Google this morning and then was transfered to LG. I read somewhere that I may have luck getting a replacement outside of warranty, but the end result of that call was essentially "sucks to be you". If anyone else has anything else to add, please do. And if I could get pointed to a YouTube video or written instructions for getting to the CPU and setting a copper shim that would also be a huge help.
Thank you again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are some tutorials around the web for that, just google Nexus 4 copper shim mod, they would even tell you which copper shim to get. Just get a standard copper shim with 1.5x1.5x0.5 dimensions, and a good thermal paste like the Shin Etsu or GELID Solutions GC-Extreme, don't use conductive thermal paste like Artic Silver, it is outdated and takes time to cure.

FPC Battery Connector for main logic board

Hi guys, is there anywhere I can get a fpc battery terminal for the logic board as per image attached? one of the brass prongs got caught in the battery and pinged off to my horror!
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Gutted is an understatement!

@turbotux If it's *just* the connector you want, and you're happy/able to solder it to the board, you can get it here.....
http://www.fonejoy.com/genuine-sams...edge-j1-j5-battery-connector-3711-008737.html
I personally wouldn't touch a hand soldering job like that, and I have been regularly using a soldering iron on all sorts of kit for over 20 years. The connectors are invariably microscopic and the potential to cause other, accidental damage is too high.
But if you want to try it....fair play and good luck (I think you'll need it).

Having actually had a 'close up' look at the connector, the solder points are bigger than I thought they would be (I've hand soldered smaller contacts). It would be possible to hand solder, but you'd need a *very* fine tipped soldering iron. And preferably one that produced a lower level of heat than a 'regular' soldering iron.

keithross39 said:
Having actually had a 'close up' look at the connector, the solder points are bigger than I thought they would be (I've hand soldered smaller contacts). It would be possible to hand solder, but you'd need a *very* fine tipped soldering iron. And preferably one that produced a lower level of heat than a 'regular' soldering iron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much for the response, it appears the solder points are big enough, look it's broken each way so it's worth a try I guess.

turbotux said:
Thank you so much for the response, it appears the solder points are big enough, look it's broken each way so it's worth a try I guess.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah....you have a broken phone right now so why not try it? Just be *REAL* careful....There are a number of surface mounted components in close proximity to your work area....
Damaging them through accidental contact with the soldering iron (or even simple heat transfer along the board) is a BIG possibility....
---------- Post added at 04:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:31 PM ----------
One final bit of advice (though you probably already know this) 'tin' or coat the solder points on the new part before going near the board. It'll help minimise the length of time the iron is in contact with the board.

I have a soldering iron with a 'home modified' reversable tip. You can see in the picture, at one end is the standard 4mm tip while at the other is a 1mm tip that tapers down to practically a needle point. This is the end that sees the most use, and it is that size of tip that you're going to need.

Just to update, I managed to solder it and it still did not work unfortunely so I've bought another n910f handset, these things happen. However the cause of this I think is down to the extended battery I had pulling on the whole module, I'm going to be running the stock batteries I have from now on.
A worthy purchase however is the extended battery I've picked up for those long cycle rides which should easily see me through, for interest its a 14000mAh Logic3 which I picked up from Maplin for around £40 and compared to its 30000mAh Chinese predecessor it totally kicks ass.
A expensive lesson learned here....

I've gone a slightly different route with my S5 and wife's N4. I have 3 batteries for each and an external charger for both types.
The spare batteries are standard capacity, but they're made by Anker.
Batteries get rotated so there's always a good battery in the phone, one that's charging and a fully charged one waiting for use.

keithross39 said:
I've gone a slightly different route with my S5 and wife's N4. I have 3 batteries for each and an external charger for both types.
The spare batteries are standard capacity, but they're made by Anker.
Batteries get rotated so there's always a good battery in the phone, one that's charging and a fully charged one waiting for use.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah the safe approach, I'm going down this route also, thanks for all your help

Yeah....It also minimises wear on the micro usb socket built into the phone...which is one big weak point on these devices.

Xperia Z5 Thermal hardware mod

Hello Z5 users!
It's my first thread ever posted by me so please forgive my lack of knowledge in creating new threads.
Warning! If you decide to do that mod yourself, proceed with extreme caution, I'm not responsible for breaking your device as it's very easy to break something.
I decided to crack open my good old Xperia Z5 and do something to increase performance and improve heat dissipation.
Firstly, I spent some time in watching teardown videos to have a look at the cooling system. It features metal backplate behind an lcd and two copper heat pipes that are soldered to the metal plate. I took some pictures of cooling system:
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There is metal shielding above the cpu and couple other elements. Between the metal shield and copper pipes, there is an inefficient thermal filler, so I removed it.
Next, we've got the motherboard. The metal shield is held by metal clips, so you need a little bit of leverage to lift this up. Between the shield and cpu is a thermal pad (it's extremely thin) which I think is inefficient as well, so I also removed it. Instead of this thermal pad, I just used a little bit of thermal paste which I needed to spread on the cpu (it must be a thin layer). After closing it up, I had to use something to close the gap between metal shielding and copper heatpipes. Firstly, I used 0.5mm Thermal pad with better conductivity, but it was too inefficient. Eventually I sanded a little bit the shielding, it had that uneven surface as you can see on this pictures.
I do not recommend using "metal based" thermal pastes, they're usually conduting electricity and that is undesirable.
I didn't do any pictures inside of this metal shielding, because i added there some thermal paste before and if I opened that it'd very messy.
The uneven surface is the problem, the heatpipes are around 0.5mm higher than the metal plate that are soldered to. I decided to put copper pad. I didn't know the exact thickness back then, so I bought a 1.0mm one and it was too thick so I sanded it down so it'd fit, I found that it should be around 0.2-0.3mm - If you put too thick copper pad and screw the motherboard, it'll push on the backplate and on the back of the lcd too hard and the dark points will appear (I was cautious so i unscrewed it and sanded the pad, so my lcd is fine).
You can even sand a little bit the copper pipes, so the surface will be more even and flat, it'll improve the heat transfer a little bit. I've spread the same thermal paste on both sides and just put everything back together.
The heat is going from the processor to shielding, through the copper pad and finally to the copper heatpipes. It is better from the factory solution, because the heat is transferred almost only to heatpipes and the lcd will be a little bit cooler to the touch, because it's not touching the metal backplate behind the lcd directly.
Do not add that much thermal compound. Please, don't point to me, that I'm using too much thermal paste, I'm aware of that.
Also, I know that the heat transfer surface under the copper pad is terrible, but it's better than stock solution. I've tried using those "soft" thermal pads next to heatpipes to increase the surface, but in the end I discovered that the results aren't that better and the lcd was heating up much more.
And the results are in the attachments. I didn't do a before and after, I've based the improvement on the average points in benchmarks. So check your scores in those, and let me know your stock points, so I'll know better if the mod was worth it. The screenshots are from Geekbench, it's on google play
My antutu benchmark score =112612
Other users average score = 97159

Thanks man . Very nice work.

ouzqan said:
Thanks man . Very nice work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear it

Hi man!
can you share temperature results_?
first open phone, benchmark result and any game 10 minute

Verity. said:
Glad to hear it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome mod. Can you please do throttle test using CPU Throttling Test ?
If you want to compare I did it here https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...geos-17-1-sumire-stable.4049463/post-87250667

diimdeep said:
Awesome mod. Can you please do throttle test using CPU Throttling Test ?
If you want to compare I did it here https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...geos-17-1-sumire-stable.4049463/post-87250667
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I sold my Z5 three years ago. This cpu was known for overheating, throttling and actually burning itself to death (Nexus 6P and some other phones with sd 810)

Verity. said:
Sorry, I sold my Z5 three years ago. This cpu was known for overheating, throttling and actually burning itself to death (Nexus 6P and some other phones with sd 810)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I feel you. Do you recommend going through with modding like you did, or just get rid of this phone ?

I'd recommend getting a phone with a midrange cpu, something like snapdragon 730, 765g etc. These are energy efficient yet very fast and they don't heat up the phone that much. It's much better that way. And also get a phone with like 6gb of ram at least. I bought Galaxy A70 used a year ago, got it pretty cheap and I love it.

Cool work.
Software modding is also effective (and even saves accu battery), see
[ROM+KERNEL][UNOFFICIAL][11.0] crDroid
*** Disclaimer I am not responsible for any damage you made to your device You have been warned crDroid is designed to increase performance and reliability over stock Android for your device also attempting to bringing many of the best features...
forum.xda-developers.com