Hey,
I'm studying the possibility of removing the back plate to hide the metal tab my magnetic phone cradle uses. Currently, it's just plain ugly glued on the back of the phone.
But even in teardown videos, they don't even touch the back plate. They work it all from removing the screen.
I know it's not removeable, but has anyone tried it, or seen someone doing it?
Thanks!
I don't think it's a "plate" so much as a "tub" into which the assembly is built/screwed. Not a removable plate like the G5 (non "Plus" model) has.
I can tell you that it's thin and a bit fragile. I keep my phone in my shirt pocket (screen to chest, of course). My buddy's 4 year old threw a toy at me when I wasn't looking... left a tiny dent in the back. I was surprised, but now see it has some room behind it and is very thin.
Just to be clear while other phones like redmi have motherboard mounted over bezzle and the back panel is applied over it
But in this case back is not a panel but its a tub so the motherboard is scrooved over the back tub and then bezzle is scaled
So if you wanna reach at back panel you have to remove bezzle then battery and after that motherboard. Then you will get the panel you want
critofur said:
I don't think it's a "plate" so much as a "tub" into which the assembly is built/screwed. Not a removable plate like the G5 (non "Plus" model) has.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Kekarot said:
Just to be clear while other phones like redmi have motherboard mounted over bezzle and the back panel is applied over it
But in this case back is not a panel but its a tub so the motherboard is scrooved over the back tub and then bezzle is scaled
So if you wanna reach at back panel you have to remove bezzle then battery and after that motherboard. Then you will get the panel you want
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, so that metal back is not removeable by any means? In other words, it's not just glued in, but fused to the case (like how it's on iPhone)?
From what I've seen, not only removing the whole innards would be a HUGE hassle, it seems it's thick enough to not be useful for what I'm trying to do..
They don't even pry it open to remove the camera glass... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKtAaniGGbU
If I'm correct, I think I've reached the end of it and have to suck it up with that ugly metal tab behind the phone, if I want the convenience of the magnetic phone cradle. If I'm wrong, plz correct me!
GTMoraes said:
Oh, so that metal back is not removeable by any means? In other words, it's not just glued in, but fused to the case (like how it's on iPhone)?
From what I've seen, not only removing the whole innards would be a HUGE hassle, it seems it's thick enough to not be useful for what I'm trying to do..
They don't even pry it open to remove the camera glass...
If I'm correct, I think I've reached the end of it and have to suck it up with that ugly metal tab behind the phone, if I want the convenience of the magnetic phone cradle. If I'm wrong, plz correct me!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Will you PM me some pics what you actually wanna do
Kekarot said:
Will you PM me some pics what you actually wanna do
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No need for a PM
It's a magnetic car mount, meant to be placed on air conditioner vents.
In order for it to function, there's a little round metal slab that must be glued on the back of the phone, or held inside by the case. It's really thin, so thin that the glue that comes with it is thicker.
The whole system looks like this:
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pardon the iphone. My metal thingy is as wide as the magnetic holder on the car's vent​
However, with the little metal thinghy glued directly to the case, it not only creates an aesthetic issue for me, but also creates a bump that makes the phone rest entirely over it and on the camera lenses, which royally sucks.
But as 50% (or more) of this metal thickness comes from the glue, removing the glue itself makes it pretty lean. But as surprising as it might be... it won't stick without glue. The only way to "fix" this is to either place behind the case or behind the back plate, which I used to do with my LG G4.
I thought I could remove the back plate of the G5Plus, place the metal thing and glue the back plate back, but from what people have been saying, the back is actually fused and not meant to be removed at all, not even for repair and maintenance by "authorized personnel".
I'm thinking that I hit a brick wall, so I must suck it up and order a case... If you have any ideas, feel free to share!
GTMoraes said:
No need for a PM
It's a magnetic car mount, meant to be placed on air conditioner vents.
In order for it to function, there's a little round metal slab that must be glued on the back of the phone, or held inside by the case. It's really thin, so thin that the glue that comes with it is thicker.
The whole system looks like this:
pardon the iphone. My metal thingy is as wide as the magnetic holder on the car's vent
However, with the little metal thinghy glued directly to the case, it not only creates an aesthetic issue for me, but also creates a bump that makes the phone rest entirely over it and on the camera lenses, which royally sucks.
But as 50% (or more) of this metal thickness comes from the glue, removing the glue itself makes it pretty lean. But as surprising as it might be... it won't stick without glue. The only way to "fix" this is to either place behind the case or behind the back plate, which I used to do with my LG G4.
I thought I could remove the back plate of the G5Plus, place the metal thing and glue the back plate back, but from what people have been saying, the back is actually fused and not meant to be removed at all, not even for repair and maintenance by "authorized personnel".
I'm thinking that I hit a brick wall, so I must suck it up and order a case... If you have any ideas, feel free to share!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you understand Hindi??
If yes watch this
Related
I have an torn apart Samsung Vibrant.
I am no technician but have disassembled several other phones and found this is the hardest so far.
I leave you some pictures, it might help some one.
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Let me know if you need some info, I will have to wait a few weeks until my new parts arrive so the phone it's going to stay that way...
Replacement Vibrant keyboard ribbon cable here...
So I got a Vibrant and promptly broke the display, I'm not sure how I did it, perhaps I sneezed too loudly or something, it doesn't matter - of course I'm going to fix it right? I repair electronics to board level, perhaps 25% of my time is spent on surface mount digital circuits, so I figure how hard can a cell phone be right?
Wrong! Oh so very wrong, grasshopper.
The digitizer and screen are held together with such veracity that I was afraid of breaking the plastic bezel piece around the screen as I pried the two apart. Even with help of a heat blanket (used for softening plastic electrical pipe for bending) I was unable to pry the two apart with any ease. I spent a couple hours over a couple of days only to finally separate the broken glass from the bezel and back plane only to find that I'd also torn the control cable from the keyboard assembly!
I've been looking for this little 5mm wide cable with 20+ flexible traces for a while now - here it is for $14! You have to but two but who really cares!
Look on globaldirectparts dot com under Samsung-T959 part# SMSNG6085870 Navigator-Flex-Cable.
Let me know if you want my extra cable assembly. I'll sell it to you for the same price I buy it for plus shipping to my house and then dropping it into a padded envelope and sending it to your house....can't be much.
Oh what a glory day!
icansolvetheproblem said:
So I got a Vibrant and promptly broke the display, I'm not sure how I did it, perhaps I sneezed too loudly or something, it doesn't matter - of course I'm going to fix it right? I repair electronics to board level, perhaps 25% of my time is spent on surface mount digital circuits, so I figure how hard can a cell phone be right?
Wrong! Oh so very wrong, grasshopper.
The digitizer and screen are held together with such veracity that I was afraid of breaking the plastic bezel piece around the screen as I pried the two apart. Even with help of a heat blanket (used for softening plastic electrical pipe for bending) I was unable to pry the two apart with any ease. I spent a couple hours over a couple of days only to finally separate the broken glass from the bezel and back plane only to find that I'd also torn the control cable from the keyboard assembly!
I've been looking for this little 5mm wide cable with 20+ flexible traces for a while now - here it is for $14! You have to but two but who really cares!
Look on globaldirectparts dot com under Samsung-T959 part# SMSNG6085870 Navigator-Flex-Cable.
Let me know if you want my extra cable assembly. I'll sell it to you for the same price I buy it for plus shipping to my house and then dropping it into a padded envelope and sending it to your house....can't be much.
Oh what a glory day!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you try to replace just the glass? I thought the glass was glued to the digitizer? And you have to replace them together. Kinda like the earlier iPhones. I thought anyway. ?
I cracked my Vibrant in the first month. Nice. Its in the corner so I cannot see it when the screen is on. But its just bad enough too ruin my resale value and Tmo wont swap it out becouse of physical damage. Nice again.
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App
Vibrant Display Repair
The OLED display and the digitizer / face are a single assembly it's true. The two of them are sandwiched together and bonded with some sort of resin along the edges. This assembly with processing electronics arrive as one piece. Samsung has kindly applied an extremely sticky glue to this entire assembly which in turn keeps it tightly held to the inner body assembly and trim bezel.
The only problem with this is that the flex cable connecting the keyboard (they call it the 'navigator') is stuck IN THE GLUE between these two items (the rear housing and the display) and from what I can deduce is nearly always going to be torn when one tries to separate the display from the bezel and inner backing assembly.
If you order a replacement OLED display be sure and order this flex cable assembly if you're interested in fixing your phone.
Cheers!
Yep all went well except for that cable!
So if you still have the 2nd, let me know. Screen works, but the bottom keys do not. Extremely frustrating!
Yep. Set it on my car (stupid, especially since I didn't have a case) and looked away. I heard it slowly creep to the edge and BAM. So now the shell is messed up. (Pictures below) I called Acer and the dude couldn't understand English. He insisted that they would fix it for $200. But the damage is purely cosmetic! I would really like to fix it though as the case can't snap completely back on. Does anyone know where I could find just the funked up metal piece? Thanks for the help guys.
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Sorry I have no idea where you can source the parts..
I dropped mine off my lounge arm rest onto thick carpet. The back plate flew off ripping what I assume is a warranty sticker... Which was half on the inside of the back plate and half on the motherboard.
On the corner of the front plate of the tablet that hit the ground, it is now slightly distorted so that there is a big seam between the front and back plates and the corner feels rough because the edge of the front plate sticks out more than the back.
Hope I made sense? Couldnt be bothered posting photos...
Couldn't be more annoyed about the shoddy build quality because I feel like I can't sell the tablet in the future due to the slight damage. I ordered a case to make holding the tablet more comfortable due to the now sharp edge and to protect from future falls.
splinter6 said:
Sorry I have no idea where you can source the parts..
I dropped mine off my lounge arm rest onto thick carpet. The back plate flew off ripping what I assume is a warranty sticker... Which was half on the inside of the back plate and half on the motherboard.
On the corner of the front plate of the tablet that hit the ground, it is now slightly distorted so that there is a big seam between the front and back plates and the corner feels rough because the edge of the front plate sticks out more than the back.
Hope I made sense? Couldnt be bothered posting photos...
Couldn't be more annoyed about the shoddy build quality because I feel like I can't sell the tablet in the future due to the slight damage. I ordered a case to make holding the tablet more comfortable due to the now sharp edge and to protect from future falls.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I feel the same way. And I am infuriated that Acer expects me to pay $200 to fix cosmetic damage. For a mere $100 more I could simply buy a new one at Staples!
How long ago did you buy it? Maybe try to get some warranty on it and pretend it happened after you got the warranty.
Thats uncanny! I dropped mine also and it just so happened to be in the same corner! Lol
I did manage to stick my foot out though just before it hit the ground and the damage is a little less than yours however I did have to strip mine down and bend the case back into its normal position, or as much as I could!
It makes a creaking noise now because the chassis is not 100% straight and my camera is done for, just as well I didn't buy it for the camera ;-)
Took about an hour to get the case as straight as I could but you might be OK if you take some time and apply pressure in the right areas...
Best of luck!
The metal looks good and feels stronger but does not bounce back when dropped.I to drooped mine from 2 feet. No damage other trunk one of the snaps broke.
You could get a vinyl skin to cover it once you get it bent back in shape. Watch eBay eventually some people will be selling dead units. I have got notebook main boards this way.
Good luck metal is not always better bohooooooo
cd85233 said:
How long ago did you buy it? Maybe try to get some warranty on it and pretend it happened after you got the warranty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought it when it was first released so I don't think I'll have much luck there. Thanks for the idea though, I'll keep it in mind.
erica_renee said:
The metal looks good and feels stronger but does not bounce back when dropped.I to drooped mine from 2 feet. No damage other trunk one of the snaps broke.
You could get a vinyl skin to cover it once you get it bent back in shape. Watch eBay eventually some people will be selling dead units. I have got notebook main boards this way.
Good luck metal is not always better bohooooooo
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I think that may be what I have to do. Hopefully people start bricking these things soon!
ddelamareuk said:
Thats uncanny! I dropped mine also and it just so happened to be in the same corner! Lol
It makes a creaking noise now because the chassis is not 100% straight
Took about an hour to get the case as straight as I could but you might be OK if you take some time and apply pressure in the right areas...
Best of luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
YES! Mine creaks too now and it makes me want to cry!
I did manage to manipulate the back cover mostly into it's proper shape to reduce the gap in the seam but problem is that the corner of the front frame is also bent which is thicker metal and has all the components attached so i fix that side...
you do not have customer care center in usa?? here i can go directly and they repair fo between 50$ - 100$++ sad for you.
you lucky that just the case
sanaell said:
you do not have customer care center in usa?? here i can go directly and they repair fo between 50$ - 100$++ sad for you.
you lucky that just the case
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's awesome. Acer want's $200 here. You can get another tablet for $300 on eBay so they must be smoking crack. I got the case to snap back on and there is a gap where the volume and rotation lock buttons are. It's ugly but whatever.
aauuwww...ugly pic!!!
Note to self: DO NOT DROP MY ICONIA!
wow the second night i got mine I fell asleep on the sofa with it on my belly i rolled and it hit the floor....i am super lucky we have bamboo wooden floors...i use the targus leather stand case and it kept anythign from killing the case.....i am super lucky....also happened to my dell 9200 inspiron the back pack strap busted and it hit the concrete from my shoulder and when i got to work checked it out no case cracks it booted up but hdd went bad in a yr....thats prolly why it died so quick....i am lucky.....;-}
I am certain that I'm getting the post syntax incorrect, let me know and I'll adjust it.
Anywho, I found out too late that when removing the black goo from the LCD's flex cable, you need to:
1. Heat it gently
2. Pull the goo from the INSIDE EDGE to the OUTSIDE EDGE.
3. Not break that paper-thin, fragile, incredibly tiny sliver of plastic that is the difference between an LCD that will turn on and an LCD that will not!
So, I managed to do none of these things. I went ahead and replaced the digitizer and tried various (failed) methods of mitigating the damage I had wrought, finding no help on the internet, only commiseration.
Tonight I had a flash of inspiration, and what the heck, it worked. I carefully used a needle to separate the tiny wire tips protruding from the clamp (my poorly-considered sideways goo-removal bent a few until they touched each other) while wishing I had a microscope, then I prepared a short length of PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW, folded it in half lengthwise ("long-ways"), and gingerly placed it beneath the overlying digitizer cable so that it compressed the LCD cable against the contacts beneath. I put the phone back together, and here I am today.
Now, I probably should have laid a bit of tape over this so that it won't shake free. I'll wait until it shakes free to do that, then report back.
I fully expect this post to elicit discussion of the dozen ways in which to better achieve this repair, and why my method is the worst of the bunch.
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I guess yours isn't the worst fix!
moktarino said:
I am certain that I'm getting the post syntax incorrect, let me know and I'll adjust it.
Anywho, I found out too late that when removing the black goo from the LCD's flex cable, you need to:
1. Heat it gently
2. Pull the goo from the INSIDE EDGE to the OUTSIDE EDGE.
3. Not break that paper-thin, fragile, incredibly tiny sliver of plastic that is the difference between an LCD that will turn on and an LCD that will not!
So, I managed to do none of these things. I went ahead and replaced the digitizer and tried various (failed) methods of mitigating the damage I had wrought, finding no help on the internet, only commiseration.
Tonight I had a flash of inspiration, and what the heck, it worked. I carefully used a needle to separate the tiny wire tips protruding from the clamp (my poorly-considered sideways goo-removal bent a few until they touched each other) while wishing I had a microscope, then I prepared a short length of PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW, folded it in half lengthwise ("long-ways"), and gingerly placed it beneath the overlying digitizer cable so that it compressed the LCD cable against the contacts beneath. I put the phone back together, and here I am today.
Now, I probably should have laid a bit of tape over this so that it won't shake free. I'll wait until it shakes free to do that, then report back.
I fully expect this post to elicit discussion of the dozen ways in which to better achieve this repair, and why my method is the worst of the bunch.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Apparently, it's not such a bad idea after all! I'm just wondering how to adapt it to work on an EVO 4G. There's no ribbon to put it underneath, but I get the idea... one would think those incredibly thin/weak plastic clamps (which should be relatively simple to replace) could be purchases for 10 to 100 times what they are worth (say, $3USD?) and problem solved. I put an HD2 screen in an EVO 4G, worked fine, until I didn't glue it in properly, and it popped out. My g/f brought it back to me, saying that I needed to fix it right! I went back in, and that damned wide flex ribbon cable, just the angle I was at, along with my son jumping about the table I was working at, I inadvertently broke that clamp, in three pieces! Damned frustrating too! I gotta get me a dedicated desk for my PC/CELL/TV repairs... with lights, magnifying glass, and a locked door...
Well folks, I have outdone myself today. I was digging through my old tech to harvest the buzzer motor out of an old Boost Mobile Motorola i425 phone. After ripping it apart for the motor, I decided to pick through the rest of the parts to see if there was anything worth keeping (I bet you know where I'm going with this by now), and after harvesting the speakers, I noticed that the LCD cable looked suspiciously similar to the one on my poor Droid X.
3 hours later, I have fully repaired my Droid X. It was pretty tricky though, but I discovered that if you bend the metal bits at either end of the connector down, you can slide the clamp in and then bend them back upright.
Parts reuse FTW! Thanks Motorola! i425's are apparently $5 on eBay now, btw.
You saved my life (and the one from my Sensation). Such a simple and working idea! Thanks!
So I have a new Nexus 4 screen that has the top corner cracked and with an air bubble underneath. (See attached photo)
What is the best way to repair it cheaply? Do I need to replace just the glass or the digitizer or both? And should I use a chinese one? I was looking on ebay and the OEM digitizer is $60 while the Chinese one is $15. My guess is that the Chinese one doesn't use Gorilla Glass, right? So it breaks with any impact?
Does anyone have experience with this? I'm located in Montreal, Canada.
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montrealguy said:
So I have a new Nexus 4 screen that has the top corner cracked and with an air bubble underneath. (See attached photo)
What is the best way to repair it cheaply? Do I need to replace just the glass or the digitizer or both? And should I use a chinese one? I was looking on ebay and the OEM digitizer is $60 while the Chinese one is $15. My guess is that the Chinese one doesn't use Gorilla Glass, right? So it breaks with any impact?
Does anyone have experience with this? I'm located in Montreal, Canada.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If your lcd works fine then replace the digitizer, but you need to use the heat gun to separate them. If you aren't super delicate with that, you can damage the lcd easily. I think you might also need LOCA glue to glue the new digitizer to lcd, and UV light to dry it (not too sure about this tho).
I honestly don't know what's the difference between chinese and oem. If chinese isnt gorilla glass (tempered glass) it can get scratches easier, but both will propably crack on (hard) impact. As far as I know gorilla glass is scratch resistant not crack resistant.
Take a look at this video, it shows you everything you need to replace the digitizer. They also sell N4 digitizers and all other stuff you need to replace the digitizer, theres more info below their video.
There is also LCD Separation Machine maybe you have some local guys who might let you use this device?
Please note that I'm telling you all this from what I know and I dont have any experience changing digitizer/lcd on N4. And I could be wrong.
Please keep us updated, what you did/bought...
Thats bad. You gota have it changed. I think youd have to get a new panel if im not mistaken..
Don't try and change just the glass, result will most likely be terrible. Replace it with full frame assembly.
@montrealguy
I recently replaced my screen assembly with the bezel for just under $60 (USD) off eBay. Replaced the battery while I was at it ($20). It's actually quite easy to do, at least relative to other phones. You can find a youtube video or a teardown tutorial off ifixit.com. I'm sure all I needed was a new digitizer, but I didn't want to mess around with all that, spend money on the extra equipment (heat gun, glue, etc), and I doubt my results would have been good. You can get just the screen assembly for $45, but IMO it's better to buy the whole thing with the bezel. Less work, less chance of screwing things up, and the entire front of your phone will look brand new.:good: If you don't have one, or the vendor you buy the assembly from doesn't supply one, get a T5 TORX driver while you're at it, and a tiny phillips (No. 0 or No.1) screwdriver.
I did run into one problem, and one that seems to be a common one. When reassembled, the proximity sensor was reading "near" rather than "far" (using a sensor diagnostic app). The result is that the screen immediately goes off and unresponsive when making a call, as though it was up to your ear already, and you can't hang up. The solution, stupidly enough is to put the rubber gasket piece that goes over the prox/light sensor unit on backwards (big hole over the little sensor, little hole over the big sensor). Try it correctly the first time, and if that doesn't work, put it in backwards. You don't have to completely reassemble the phone, just swap everything over to the new assembly, plug all the thingies (I don't know what they're actually called) back in, and swap the button boards over. Probably put the few screws that go around the sensor in to make sure that part is tight. Turn it on and run a sensor detector app.
If you have any specific questions, let me know; I probably took apart and reassembled my N4 twenty times trying to fix the proximity sensor issue, so I'm well versed in the guts of this phone now.
@Planterz could you post the eBay link where you got your screen assembly from please
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Doo Doo said:
@Planterz could you post the eBay link where you got your screen assembly from please
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-LG-E960...e_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item23349c472f
No tools were provided. I already had the appropriate screwdrivers, and to split the case apart, I used the fingernail cleaner on a Swiss Army Knife. You might want to get proper cellphone repair tools though (they're plastic, and shouldn't damage anything). If you have a hairdrier or something that can heat it up to soften the glue, it should make things easier, but I didn't have any problems without that. Just go slowly. Don't pry too hard, or you might crack the back glass. A plastic knife (the white, flexible kind, not the clear, brittle ones) could work.
As mentioned at my long post at https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=73478114&postcount=45 , I noticed my LG V20 arrived with the following seemingly minor hardware issue..
When my V20 arrived I noticed the rear camera glass cover mound (similar to https://www.amazon.com/Unifix-Camera-Repair-Replacement-Silver/dp/B06Y3K831B but includes the LED cover that only uses adhesive tape visible at https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61vhxTdE-gL._SL1150_.jpg & below) was loose with weak adhesive, my compressed photo of it at (https://preview.ibb.co/cV6Qu5/V20_CAMERA_GLASS_COVER_ADHESIVE_LOOSE.jpg & below), but everything works & I don't think it's worth returning it especially if B&H doesn't have anymore https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1285961-REG/lg_lgus996_ausasv_lg_v20_4gb_ram.html so what do you think I should do regarding a better adhesive for it, if I can't find anything should I try a clear heated glue gun like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073Z5QNTD or just double sided tape as visible at https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61vhxTdE-gL._SL1150_.jpg to make it easier to replace should it ever break (although my case offers it some protection)?
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- Thanks for any productive advice
3m thin double sided tape
Autostore, wally world, target, kmart
Specifically get the thin version. It is what is used. Cheaper replacement kits use knockoff 3m thin tape.
P.S. easy with the links, killer.
elijah420 said:
3m thin double sided tape
Autostore, wally world, target, kmart
Specifically get the thin version. It is what is used. Cheaper replacement kits use knockoff 3m thin tape.
P.S. easy with the links, killer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL I love links..what's the problem with relevant links (don't have to click through them)..
My sister actually brought me over tonight some thin 3M double sided tape she had like at https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Removable-Double-Dispenser-667/dp/B00006IF63 but when I removed my new LG V20's camera glass cover part with my fingernail on the top edge, the adhesive on it already seemed stickier than the tape (which given the small intricate holes would not be easy to cut out at this point) so I didn't put the tape on tonight & used the adhesive it already had to secure it firmly down with some lens cleaning cloths. It's not hanging or very loose anymore but I can move it around a bit with my fingernails, is that normal?
She also brought me Elmer's All Purpose Gluestick like at https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Purpose-Sticks-0-77-ounce-sticks/dp/B000U6FJQE which seems easier to work with if the camera lens is avoided but not very strong & 3M Restickable Tabs for mounting like at https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Restickable-Tabs-Inches-R100VPC/dp/B007TUMWNM but she said that is significantly thicker than the tape. She also brought me a hot glue gun she borrowed from someone (needed it for something else)..
Mine only moves a bit now if I shake each side specifically with my fingernails (which I'll be cutting soon & would be difficult with short nails) but I can currently still remove it with my fingernails around its edges.. This LG V20's camera glass cover part no longer seems like it's going anywhere unless it's hit in the right crevice-angle or possibly dropped with enough top impact, is everyone's 100% unmovable even with fingernails inside its edges?
-Thx for any constructive advice
Do not use glue.
elijah420 said:
Do not use glue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Rationale for recommendations are also appreciated by anyone for this situation.
So far I haven't used anything except try to secure it better with its shipped adhesive with a soft lens cloth. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=LG+V20+US996 assured me this V20 was new before it shipped & when I received it I saw no evidence it was ever used except I noticed the camera glass cover part was oddly loose later hanging down a bit which obviously alarmed me hence my post especially after reading people had reported their camera glass easily broke. I had recently used glue elsewhere on a project so I immediately considered if it should be glued but decided to investigate the matter further before introducing anything extrinsic there.
I had wondered if there might be an advantage to the camera glass cover part being less rigid with such "flexible" adhesive to potentially absorb any shocks better but wasn't sure if that was just wishful thinking. I merely secured it down in its place with its own adhesive enough now that I'm not too worried anymore especially with the protective case but it doesn't seem entirely normal that I should be able to remove it along its edges with my finger nails in such a pliable way without getting some feedback from owners.
I speculate you might be familiar with reports that the camera glass part breaks easily & I'd obviously prefer to avoid damaging this otherwise cool-unique device.
Enough with the bickering here thanks...
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