Introduction
As a Biomedical Electronics Tech, I have a great appreciation for human-machine interfaces. Interfaces must be tightly spec'd to the body or there is a loss of signal. One of the biggest complaints about Google Glass is the "crappy speaker". The speaker is not crappy, it's actually decent, it's just poorly positioned for just about everyone aside from Sergey Brin. If you have a larger than average head, you're out of luck because the Bone Conduction Driver sits on your Temple instead of your Mastoid (The hard bone behind your ear, used in Bone Conduction technology).
Well, you were out of luck... This mod can help you. After working on this for about a month, and much trial and error, I've come up with a near perfect hack for using Glass as a primary bluetooth headset and Pandora audio device. It sounds more like headphones and not a crappy cell-phone speaker sitting too far away. This modification can be undone easily, and should not affect your warranty.
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Do I need this?
How do you tell if the bone conduction speaker is operating properly? Listen for the click. Simply wear your Glass and press on the portion behind the ear. If you hear a well defined click, Glass is properly positioned. If you do not hear a click, you should perform initial adjustment of the nose-pieces of glass in order to reposition the unit. They bend more than you think. If this does not work, then you should proceed with the following modification. In my case, the Bone Conduction Driver sits over my soft temple, instead of the Mastoid bone and that's a problem because I can't hear it. If you have the same issue, then continue on.
You will need
You will need the following in order to perform the modification.
Tools:
1 Pliers $3 http://www.amazon.com/Anglers-Choice-PAC-600-Combination-Plier/dp/B0084EDOMK
2 Diagonal Cutters $3 http://www.amazon.com/Cutters-clipper-Diagonal-scissors-Grinding/dp/B00IVEFVDI
Expendables:
1- AO* Replacement Bayonet Temple aka. "Lever" $36 - http://shop.aoeyewearonline.com/Replacement-Temples-TMPLS.htm
1.5cm 1mm Digitizer Tape $3 - http://www.amazon.com/1mm-Digitizer-Incredible-Thunderbolt-Sensation/dp/B005GITURA
10cm Steel Hobby Wire $3 http://www.amazon.com/Gauge-Galvanized-Steel-Hobby-50134/dp/B002FY90L4
Performing the modification
You may be able to figure most of it out by this picture, but here are some instructions.
Place a V-shaped bend in the hobby wire. This is where the Lever will sit.
Place the glasses temple on the hobby wire
Using a pair of Pliers, twist the Hobby Wire to secure the temple to the thinnest portion of the Glass Body with the Lever extending past the end of Glass. Be careful not to twist too hard or the Hobby Wire will cause damage to Glass. From this point on, the lever is attached to Glass and should be handled carefuly
Bend the Lever so it is flush with the Glass Bone Conduction Driver. It must be entirely flush with a bit of pressure applied.
Place Glass on your head, and note where the Lever makes contact with your Mastoid.
Cut the Lever using a pair of Diagonal Cutters (dykes), approximately 1/2 inch past the contact point of the mastoid-lever contact. Try to remove sharp corners.
bend the end portion of the lever into a slight "C" shape, so as to remove contact with sharp corners. The C will be the Contact Surface for your Mastoid.
Apply the Digitizer Tape to the lever, in the area where it will make contact with the Glass Bone Conduction Driver
Before removing the Digitizer Tape Backing, ensure it sits flat against the driver with a slight amount of pressure applied to the end of the lever (simulating operating conditions)
Remove the Digitizer Tape Backing and press the lever to the Bone Conduction Driver
clip the Hobby Wire with the Diagonal Cutters so as to remove excess. You only need a ring of it.
Place glass on your head and press on the part behind the ear. If you've done everything correctly, you should hear an audible click when pressing and releasing.
IMPORTANT: Never pull to remove the Lever. Separate the lever from the speaker with a knife or needle, or other object. Pulling to remove the lever can cause the driver to separate from the coil. It can be glued back in place, but bad things can happen!
Troubleshooting
Just as Glass has its own adjustments to fit, this mod will also require adjustments. If things don't sound right, discontinue use and fix it with the following guide.
Sound isn't loud enough. You can move the lever closer to the back of Glass for higher amplification, or make the lever longer. But, there is a balance between pressure and amplification.
I hear pops in the audio. The pressure is too high, reduce pressure by bending the Contact "C" surface so it is closer to Glass.
Sound is muffled. If the lever isn't flush with the glass, then the driver can pop inwards.
I hear a click when I place glass on my head. There is too much pressure. Reduce pressure by bending the Contact "C" surface, so it is closer to Glass.
Certain high frequencies are causing a "ringing" sound. There is not enough tension on the fulcrum. the sound is caused by the Hobby Wire's movement. Tighten the Hobby Wire.
Conclusion
After this mod, the tones are richer, the bass can be heard and felt, the highs come across crisply, and the mechanical vibration gets amplified. This mod is everything Glass should have been, out the door. It's absolutely useful for calls, navigation, and Pandora after this. I hope this helps.
*AO stands for American Optics, not Adam Outler
Great find, thanks for contributing, we need more folks like you around here...
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Nice Job Adam.! Now I have Glass Envy.
Christmas is around the corner and according to what others have often said about me, probably do have a big head to fit the standard model.
i don't own device but i know u and your smiles .. hope you my best bro . u are a genius man , be proud , i always wanna be like you and im trying
Related
I have an torn apart Samsung Vibrant.
I am no technician but have disassembled several other phones and found this is the hardest so far.
I leave you some pictures, it might help some one.
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Let me know if you need some info, I will have to wait a few weeks until my new parts arrive so the phone it's going to stay that way...
Replacement Vibrant keyboard ribbon cable here...
So I got a Vibrant and promptly broke the display, I'm not sure how I did it, perhaps I sneezed too loudly or something, it doesn't matter - of course I'm going to fix it right? I repair electronics to board level, perhaps 25% of my time is spent on surface mount digital circuits, so I figure how hard can a cell phone be right?
Wrong! Oh so very wrong, grasshopper.
The digitizer and screen are held together with such veracity that I was afraid of breaking the plastic bezel piece around the screen as I pried the two apart. Even with help of a heat blanket (used for softening plastic electrical pipe for bending) I was unable to pry the two apart with any ease. I spent a couple hours over a couple of days only to finally separate the broken glass from the bezel and back plane only to find that I'd also torn the control cable from the keyboard assembly!
I've been looking for this little 5mm wide cable with 20+ flexible traces for a while now - here it is for $14! You have to but two but who really cares!
Look on globaldirectparts dot com under Samsung-T959 part# SMSNG6085870 Navigator-Flex-Cable.
Let me know if you want my extra cable assembly. I'll sell it to you for the same price I buy it for plus shipping to my house and then dropping it into a padded envelope and sending it to your house....can't be much.
Oh what a glory day!
icansolvetheproblem said:
So I got a Vibrant and promptly broke the display, I'm not sure how I did it, perhaps I sneezed too loudly or something, it doesn't matter - of course I'm going to fix it right? I repair electronics to board level, perhaps 25% of my time is spent on surface mount digital circuits, so I figure how hard can a cell phone be right?
Wrong! Oh so very wrong, grasshopper.
The digitizer and screen are held together with such veracity that I was afraid of breaking the plastic bezel piece around the screen as I pried the two apart. Even with help of a heat blanket (used for softening plastic electrical pipe for bending) I was unable to pry the two apart with any ease. I spent a couple hours over a couple of days only to finally separate the broken glass from the bezel and back plane only to find that I'd also torn the control cable from the keyboard assembly!
I've been looking for this little 5mm wide cable with 20+ flexible traces for a while now - here it is for $14! You have to but two but who really cares!
Look on globaldirectparts dot com under Samsung-T959 part# SMSNG6085870 Navigator-Flex-Cable.
Let me know if you want my extra cable assembly. I'll sell it to you for the same price I buy it for plus shipping to my house and then dropping it into a padded envelope and sending it to your house....can't be much.
Oh what a glory day!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you try to replace just the glass? I thought the glass was glued to the digitizer? And you have to replace them together. Kinda like the earlier iPhones. I thought anyway. ?
I cracked my Vibrant in the first month. Nice. Its in the corner so I cannot see it when the screen is on. But its just bad enough too ruin my resale value and Tmo wont swap it out becouse of physical damage. Nice again.
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App
Vibrant Display Repair
The OLED display and the digitizer / face are a single assembly it's true. The two of them are sandwiched together and bonded with some sort of resin along the edges. This assembly with processing electronics arrive as one piece. Samsung has kindly applied an extremely sticky glue to this entire assembly which in turn keeps it tightly held to the inner body assembly and trim bezel.
The only problem with this is that the flex cable connecting the keyboard (they call it the 'navigator') is stuck IN THE GLUE between these two items (the rear housing and the display) and from what I can deduce is nearly always going to be torn when one tries to separate the display from the bezel and inner backing assembly.
If you order a replacement OLED display be sure and order this flex cable assembly if you're interested in fixing your phone.
Cheers!
Yep all went well except for that cable!
So if you still have the 2nd, let me know. Screen works, but the bottom keys do not. Extremely frustrating!
Does your outer and inner screen having issue? Repairing the Samsung Focus i917 is a fairly simple task. This repair guide will walk you through the steps required to replace your AMOLED (LCD) and glass touchscreen digitizer combo. Follow this guide to insure a quick and safe repair for your Samsung smartphone.
This guide will help you to install the following Samsung Focus i917 part(s):
Samsung Focus i917 AMOLED (LCD) & Touch Screen Glass Digitizer Replacement
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
Hot Air Gun / Hair Dryer (optional)
Samsung Focus i917 apart guide:
First remove the back cover and the battery from the phone. Next remove the six small phillips screws. Once the screws are removed, use a safe pry tool to release the clips along the sides of the casing. Once the clips have been release you can remove the back housing from the rest of the phone.
Next ease the motherboard up slightly to allow access to the ribbon cable underneath the motherboard. Release this ribbon connector using a safe pry tool or screwdriver. With the ribbon released, you can now open the phone. Careful as the motherboard is still connected.
Using a safe pry tool release the ribbon clip, put the mother board on the side but be careful as it is still connected. Next, ease out the volume button. You will now be able to fully remove the motherboard from the rest of the phone.
You can now release the jaw connector on the back of the screen releasing the flex cable. Do this using a safe open pry tool to release the small flap on the back side of the connector.
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Figure 1
Next using a hot hair dryer or heat gun, warm the front of the screen along the sides on the top to the bottom to warm the adhesive which is holding the screen to the frame of the phone. Use a safe pry tool to pry the glass away from the frame of the phone.
Ease the ribbon cables through the hole so that we can remove the screen, once the screen removed you can now replace it.
Figure 2
Simply replace the damaged parts with the new ones and reverse the order to put your phone back together again.
Thank you, good initiative! Hopefully won't be many in need of this but just in case
Could you add specialized replacing (screen, charger assembly, mic etc)? I know there's several videos out there. What would also be good is have a document attached here (pictures on image-hosts tend to get lost after some time) for reference.
There's a MUCH easier way....
When I was searching for a screen replacement for my Focus, I came across two options. One is the glass, digitizer and LCD combo. Which requires the steps in this write up, and the video that you'll find on youtube. Heat gun, new adhesive, etc.
Along with that option, there is another item that is the glass, digitizer, LCD already installed in the front half of the frame. It comes with the earphone jack already installed. And maybe a few other odd bits. All you have to do is take your phone apart, remove your motherboard with camera and vib motor, and install it in the new chassis. Thats it.
Best part about option #2... ITS THE SAME PRICE AS JUST THE GLASS/LCD/DIGI! I paid $95 shipped. In my opinion, you cant beat it. Even if the heat gun method was only 50 bucks...I would still pay more for the whole frame. Its so easy, so quick, and the best part, you dont have to worry about the new screen popping off because the adhesive failed.
Just my $.02!
J.
For a more detailed repair take a look at our Focus video repair guide. It is a great addition to this take apart guide.
Nice guide and the images are clear. thanks for sharing
timm.avouris said:
Nice guide and the images are clear. thanks for sharing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're Welcome!
ghettocruiser said:
There's a MUCH easier way....
When I was searching for a screen replacement for my Focus, I came across two options. One is the glass, digitizer and LCD combo. Which requires the steps in this write up, and the video that you'll find on youtube. Heat gun, new adhesive, etc.
Along with that option, there is another item that is the glass, digitizer, LCD already installed in the front half of the frame. It comes with the earphone jack already installed. And maybe a few other odd bits. All you have to do is take your phone apart, remove your motherboard with camera and vib motor, and install it in the new chassis. Thats it.
Best part about option #2... ITS THE SAME PRICE AS JUST THE GLASS/LCD/DIGI! I paid $95 shipped. In my opinion, you cant beat it. Even if the heat gun method was only 50 bucks...I would still pay more for the whole frame. Its so easy, so quick, and the best part, you dont have to worry about the new screen popping off because the adhesive failed.
Just my $.02!
J.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Purchasing the LCD/touch screen combo is definitely the way to go!
I am certain that I'm getting the post syntax incorrect, let me know and I'll adjust it.
Anywho, I found out too late that when removing the black goo from the LCD's flex cable, you need to:
1. Heat it gently
2. Pull the goo from the INSIDE EDGE to the OUTSIDE EDGE.
3. Not break that paper-thin, fragile, incredibly tiny sliver of plastic that is the difference between an LCD that will turn on and an LCD that will not!
So, I managed to do none of these things. I went ahead and replaced the digitizer and tried various (failed) methods of mitigating the damage I had wrought, finding no help on the internet, only commiseration.
Tonight I had a flash of inspiration, and what the heck, it worked. I carefully used a needle to separate the tiny wire tips protruding from the clamp (my poorly-considered sideways goo-removal bent a few until they touched each other) while wishing I had a microscope, then I prepared a short length of PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW, folded it in half lengthwise ("long-ways"), and gingerly placed it beneath the overlying digitizer cable so that it compressed the LCD cable against the contacts beneath. I put the phone back together, and here I am today.
Now, I probably should have laid a bit of tape over this so that it won't shake free. I'll wait until it shakes free to do that, then report back.
I fully expect this post to elicit discussion of the dozen ways in which to better achieve this repair, and why my method is the worst of the bunch.
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I guess yours isn't the worst fix!
moktarino said:
I am certain that I'm getting the post syntax incorrect, let me know and I'll adjust it.
Anywho, I found out too late that when removing the black goo from the LCD's flex cable, you need to:
1. Heat it gently
2. Pull the goo from the INSIDE EDGE to the OUTSIDE EDGE.
3. Not break that paper-thin, fragile, incredibly tiny sliver of plastic that is the difference between an LCD that will turn on and an LCD that will not!
So, I managed to do none of these things. I went ahead and replaced the digitizer and tried various (failed) methods of mitigating the damage I had wrought, finding no help on the internet, only commiseration.
Tonight I had a flash of inspiration, and what the heck, it worked. I carefully used a needle to separate the tiny wire tips protruding from the clamp (my poorly-considered sideways goo-removal bent a few until they touched each other) while wishing I had a microscope, then I prepared a short length of PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW, folded it in half lengthwise ("long-ways"), and gingerly placed it beneath the overlying digitizer cable so that it compressed the LCD cable against the contacts beneath. I put the phone back together, and here I am today.
Now, I probably should have laid a bit of tape over this so that it won't shake free. I'll wait until it shakes free to do that, then report back.
I fully expect this post to elicit discussion of the dozen ways in which to better achieve this repair, and why my method is the worst of the bunch.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Apparently, it's not such a bad idea after all! I'm just wondering how to adapt it to work on an EVO 4G. There's no ribbon to put it underneath, but I get the idea... one would think those incredibly thin/weak plastic clamps (which should be relatively simple to replace) could be purchases for 10 to 100 times what they are worth (say, $3USD?) and problem solved. I put an HD2 screen in an EVO 4G, worked fine, until I didn't glue it in properly, and it popped out. My g/f brought it back to me, saying that I needed to fix it right! I went back in, and that damned wide flex ribbon cable, just the angle I was at, along with my son jumping about the table I was working at, I inadvertently broke that clamp, in three pieces! Damned frustrating too! I gotta get me a dedicated desk for my PC/CELL/TV repairs... with lights, magnifying glass, and a locked door...
Well folks, I have outdone myself today. I was digging through my old tech to harvest the buzzer motor out of an old Boost Mobile Motorola i425 phone. After ripping it apart for the motor, I decided to pick through the rest of the parts to see if there was anything worth keeping (I bet you know where I'm going with this by now), and after harvesting the speakers, I noticed that the LCD cable looked suspiciously similar to the one on my poor Droid X.
3 hours later, I have fully repaired my Droid X. It was pretty tricky though, but I discovered that if you bend the metal bits at either end of the connector down, you can slide the clamp in and then bend them back upright.
Parts reuse FTW! Thanks Motorola! i425's are apparently $5 on eBay now, btw.
You saved my life (and the one from my Sensation). Such a simple and working idea! Thanks!
Hey,
I'm studying the possibility of removing the back plate to hide the metal tab my magnetic phone cradle uses. Currently, it's just plain ugly glued on the back of the phone.
But even in teardown videos, they don't even touch the back plate. They work it all from removing the screen.
I know it's not removeable, but has anyone tried it, or seen someone doing it?
Thanks!
I don't think it's a "plate" so much as a "tub" into which the assembly is built/screwed. Not a removable plate like the G5 (non "Plus" model) has.
I can tell you that it's thin and a bit fragile. I keep my phone in my shirt pocket (screen to chest, of course). My buddy's 4 year old threw a toy at me when I wasn't looking... left a tiny dent in the back. I was surprised, but now see it has some room behind it and is very thin.
Just to be clear while other phones like redmi have motherboard mounted over bezzle and the back panel is applied over it
But in this case back is not a panel but its a tub so the motherboard is scrooved over the back tub and then bezzle is scaled
So if you wanna reach at back panel you have to remove bezzle then battery and after that motherboard. Then you will get the panel you want
critofur said:
I don't think it's a "plate" so much as a "tub" into which the assembly is built/screwed. Not a removable plate like the G5 (non "Plus" model) has.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Kekarot said:
Just to be clear while other phones like redmi have motherboard mounted over bezzle and the back panel is applied over it
But in this case back is not a panel but its a tub so the motherboard is scrooved over the back tub and then bezzle is scaled
So if you wanna reach at back panel you have to remove bezzle then battery and after that motherboard. Then you will get the panel you want
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, so that metal back is not removeable by any means? In other words, it's not just glued in, but fused to the case (like how it's on iPhone)?
From what I've seen, not only removing the whole innards would be a HUGE hassle, it seems it's thick enough to not be useful for what I'm trying to do..
They don't even pry it open to remove the camera glass... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKtAaniGGbU
If I'm correct, I think I've reached the end of it and have to suck it up with that ugly metal tab behind the phone, if I want the convenience of the magnetic phone cradle. If I'm wrong, plz correct me!
GTMoraes said:
Oh, so that metal back is not removeable by any means? In other words, it's not just glued in, but fused to the case (like how it's on iPhone)?
From what I've seen, not only removing the whole innards would be a HUGE hassle, it seems it's thick enough to not be useful for what I'm trying to do..
They don't even pry it open to remove the camera glass...
If I'm correct, I think I've reached the end of it and have to suck it up with that ugly metal tab behind the phone, if I want the convenience of the magnetic phone cradle. If I'm wrong, plz correct me!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Will you PM me some pics what you actually wanna do
Kekarot said:
Will you PM me some pics what you actually wanna do
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No need for a PM
It's a magnetic car mount, meant to be placed on air conditioner vents.
In order for it to function, there's a little round metal slab that must be glued on the back of the phone, or held inside by the case. It's really thin, so thin that the glue that comes with it is thicker.
The whole system looks like this:
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pardon the iphone. My metal thingy is as wide as the magnetic holder on the car's vent
However, with the little metal thinghy glued directly to the case, it not only creates an aesthetic issue for me, but also creates a bump that makes the phone rest entirely over it and on the camera lenses, which royally sucks.
But as 50% (or more) of this metal thickness comes from the glue, removing the glue itself makes it pretty lean. But as surprising as it might be... it won't stick without glue. The only way to "fix" this is to either place behind the case or behind the back plate, which I used to do with my LG G4.
I thought I could remove the back plate of the G5Plus, place the metal thing and glue the back plate back, but from what people have been saying, the back is actually fused and not meant to be removed at all, not even for repair and maintenance by "authorized personnel".
I'm thinking that I hit a brick wall, so I must suck it up and order a case... If you have any ideas, feel free to share!
GTMoraes said:
No need for a PM
It's a magnetic car mount, meant to be placed on air conditioner vents.
In order for it to function, there's a little round metal slab that must be glued on the back of the phone, or held inside by the case. It's really thin, so thin that the glue that comes with it is thicker.
The whole system looks like this:
pardon the iphone. My metal thingy is as wide as the magnetic holder on the car's vent
However, with the little metal thinghy glued directly to the case, it not only creates an aesthetic issue for me, but also creates a bump that makes the phone rest entirely over it and on the camera lenses, which royally sucks.
But as 50% (or more) of this metal thickness comes from the glue, removing the glue itself makes it pretty lean. But as surprising as it might be... it won't stick without glue. The only way to "fix" this is to either place behind the case or behind the back plate, which I used to do with my LG G4.
I thought I could remove the back plate of the G5Plus, place the metal thing and glue the back plate back, but from what people have been saying, the back is actually fused and not meant to be removed at all, not even for repair and maintenance by "authorized personnel".
I'm thinking that I hit a brick wall, so I must suck it up and order a case... If you have any ideas, feel free to share!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you understand Hindi??
If yes watch this
As mentioned at my long post at https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=73478114&postcount=45 , I noticed my LG V20 arrived with the following seemingly minor hardware issue..
When my V20 arrived I noticed the rear camera glass cover mound (similar to https://www.amazon.com/Unifix-Camera-Repair-Replacement-Silver/dp/B06Y3K831B but includes the LED cover that only uses adhesive tape visible at https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61vhxTdE-gL._SL1150_.jpg & below) was loose with weak adhesive, my compressed photo of it at (https://preview.ibb.co/cV6Qu5/V20_CAMERA_GLASS_COVER_ADHESIVE_LOOSE.jpg & below), but everything works & I don't think it's worth returning it especially if B&H doesn't have anymore https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1285961-REG/lg_lgus996_ausasv_lg_v20_4gb_ram.html so what do you think I should do regarding a better adhesive for it, if I can't find anything should I try a clear heated glue gun like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073Z5QNTD or just double sided tape as visible at https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61vhxTdE-gL._SL1150_.jpg to make it easier to replace should it ever break (although my case offers it some protection)?
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- Thanks for any productive advice
3m thin double sided tape
Autostore, wally world, target, kmart
Specifically get the thin version. It is what is used. Cheaper replacement kits use knockoff 3m thin tape.
P.S. easy with the links, killer.
elijah420 said:
3m thin double sided tape
Autostore, wally world, target, kmart
Specifically get the thin version. It is what is used. Cheaper replacement kits use knockoff 3m thin tape.
P.S. easy with the links, killer.
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LOL I love links..what's the problem with relevant links (don't have to click through them)..
My sister actually brought me over tonight some thin 3M double sided tape she had like at https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Removable-Double-Dispenser-667/dp/B00006IF63 but when I removed my new LG V20's camera glass cover part with my fingernail on the top edge, the adhesive on it already seemed stickier than the tape (which given the small intricate holes would not be easy to cut out at this point) so I didn't put the tape on tonight & used the adhesive it already had to secure it firmly down with some lens cleaning cloths. It's not hanging or very loose anymore but I can move it around a bit with my fingernails, is that normal?
She also brought me Elmer's All Purpose Gluestick like at https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Purpose-Sticks-0-77-ounce-sticks/dp/B000U6FJQE which seems easier to work with if the camera lens is avoided but not very strong & 3M Restickable Tabs for mounting like at https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Restickable-Tabs-Inches-R100VPC/dp/B007TUMWNM but she said that is significantly thicker than the tape. She also brought me a hot glue gun she borrowed from someone (needed it for something else)..
Mine only moves a bit now if I shake each side specifically with my fingernails (which I'll be cutting soon & would be difficult with short nails) but I can currently still remove it with my fingernails around its edges.. This LG V20's camera glass cover part no longer seems like it's going anywhere unless it's hit in the right crevice-angle or possibly dropped with enough top impact, is everyone's 100% unmovable even with fingernails inside its edges?
-Thx for any constructive advice
Do not use glue.
elijah420 said:
Do not use glue.
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Rationale for recommendations are also appreciated by anyone for this situation.
So far I haven't used anything except try to secure it better with its shipped adhesive with a soft lens cloth. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=LG+V20+US996 assured me this V20 was new before it shipped & when I received it I saw no evidence it was ever used except I noticed the camera glass cover part was oddly loose later hanging down a bit which obviously alarmed me hence my post especially after reading people had reported their camera glass easily broke. I had recently used glue elsewhere on a project so I immediately considered if it should be glued but decided to investigate the matter further before introducing anything extrinsic there.
I had wondered if there might be an advantage to the camera glass cover part being less rigid with such "flexible" adhesive to potentially absorb any shocks better but wasn't sure if that was just wishful thinking. I merely secured it down in its place with its own adhesive enough now that I'm not too worried anymore especially with the protective case but it doesn't seem entirely normal that I should be able to remove it along its edges with my finger nails in such a pliable way without getting some feedback from owners.
I speculate you might be familiar with reports that the camera glass part breaks easily & I'd obviously prefer to avoid damaging this otherwise cool-unique device.
Enough with the bickering here thanks...
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