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My MyTouch 3G Slide has a couple defects. The bezel or plastic housing that surrounds the upper portion of the device surrounding the screen has gaps in it around the seam that allows dust or any small particulate to enter under the screen. I have looked at several of the devices and they all have it to one degree or another. For instance, on my Slide I have 3 of these holes one of which has allowed a grain of sand under my screen. My wife's Slide has 4 of these holes or gaps and they are substantial on her phone. One XDA member has had this happen in the same spot that both my wife and my Slides are collecting dust.
While the light leaks or gaps in the bezel are a problem (for me) I think the real problem lies in the adhesive strip that connects the digitizer to the LCD screen. The way the digitizer is adhered to the LCD there shouldn't be any way for dust to have gotten in between the two pieces of hardware. I'd like to believe that it was just my particular phone but my wife's phone is having the exact same issue.
The phone really is phenomenal and I'm sure it was just a fluke that I've had issues (hoping so). Just keep an eye out for any issues similar to what I've mentioned above. I have really gone back and forth with this and I am definitely disappointed with having an issue(s) right out of the gate. My wife really likes the phone and after giving it some thought I like it as well ... a lot. I will return and reorder another couple Slides because this device is that awesome. Thanks for your thoughts/contributions to the thread.
I've tried to get some photos of the gaps but they are small and hard to photograph. To inspect your device: Go into a dark area and pull up your contacts, messaging app or a white web page in the browser with full screen brightness and inspect the seam of the plastic housing surrounding the touch screen on the top half of the slide. The gaps are almost like rectangular notches just below/above the corners of the screen in the seam. My theory is that these are artifacts from the plastic molding process that were exacerbated by poor/hasty assembly. I am definitely returning my Slides.
Its all true. After reading, and seeing the image posted by another member here, I checked my phone. I went into a dark room, opened up a site that has pretty much a white page, and I too noticed a gap at the bottom right hand corner of my screen. As of right now no dust/dirt has shown up under my screen, but what's to say that it won't later on. Heck, screw dirt. What if moisture finds its way in, and starts to fog up the screen from within? This could be a major problem later on down the road.
whew... just checked mine, noticed nothing like that, thank goodness.
[email protected] said:
whew... just checked mine, noticed nothing like that, thank goodness.
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Strange, I've confirmed with everyone I know with a Slide (only black and white thus far) and everyone is seeing the same thing. What color Slide did you get? I wonder if the red Slide is manufactured differently? Anyway, that is awesome because I think the phone is GREAT other than the small gaps in the bezel.
I will say I took some compressed air and attempted to move the artifact under my screen just to see if air was moving through those gaps. The grain of sand or whatever it is did not budge. I'm just not sure what to think. I hate the idea of returning this phone ...
Mine is like that. Not that i care much as im returning it soon. But it does have gaps and light leakage all over the bottom of the screen, near the buttons.
i just check my and maybe i cant see it but i havent found anything... i have a red one
Re: My MT3G Slides (and others) Have A Defective Touch Screen Bezel
Initialy checked mine as well, black. I don't appear to have this problem either.
I will inspect further to verify.
Sent from my T-Mobile myTouch 3G Slide using Tapatalk
The only one I have is at the very bottom of the buttons, which might even just be the light hitting the glass at a specific angle. Other than that, no light leaks/cracks/blocks/whatever you call them on my screen area. Red Espresso.
I just swapped my white MTS for a Black one with no signs of cracks or light showing threw. TMO rep did not know of this problem and said he would send out an e-mail to other reps to let them know.
My day is now ruined
Yep, both bottom sides, right at the corners, above the buttons. I will not return it though, think instead a lil duct tape and some JB weld will do (seriously, a little touch of black silicon for a good seal, still sucks though). Screen cover seems to be blocking any dirt at the moment.
woow good looking out.. i was wondering how a spec of dust got to my screen. im planning on putting a piece of scotch tape over those regions (i have a red slide btw).
I have a red one and didn't see any leaks bottom or top. Thank goodness!
mtjnkee said:
seriously, a little touch of black silicon for a good seal
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I hear you; I've been trying to find a way to keep the bezel sealed until I can get a case/cover for the phone. I literally have one tiny grain of sand at the bottom left hand corner of my screen. I so don't want to return the phone; I'm in love with the thing.
Glad to hear some of you have a better seal on the bezel.
I have some small light leak on the bottom, not an issue yet and I'm still within my 14 days so I might stop by the t mobile store tomorrow and try to get a replacement.
1. slight curved gaps at the corner edge where the top of the plastic curves down to turn into the sides. check
2. vertical rectangular light leak above home and genius keys. check
3. these lights only light up when hard keys are lit..when screen first lights up...light leaks are not there...once keys light up, light in the gaps light up. doesnt this mean the screen is sealed and there is no leak from the screen itself?
4. however, if you have a creaky top plastic housing, the seam running along the edge of the white plastic and grey plastic is not flush...on my 1st slide, i could see the screen light up in these 'cracks' of the seam...could debris get into screen this way then?
5. for those with debris already at lower left part of screen: pls do me a favor:
hold phone (sideways with back cover facing the ground) at just below eye level and try to see that left corner that is underneath the painted black surround of the screen..do you see white light when the screen is lit? if you look along the 'inside' edges along the rest of the phone, you will see that there should not be white light emitting out and should have a 'clean' look...there should basically be a solid black border...perhaps, if you guys have this white lighting show through, that could mean a separation of the screen somehow? btw, you do not have to be in a dark room to see this light along the inside edge....it is very noticable as the light comes thru where i think there should be no light. ps: when looking at the phone screen normally (ie from top down), screen looks perfect and this issue doesnt affect actual picture on screen.
my first slide had the light leaks but i didnt think anything of them as i thought they were related to the buttons only...but the issue i had spoke of in #5 above, i had this light coming thru along the whole edge of the bottom of the screen plus creaky top plastic housing.
I have dust under the entire screen of 2 Slides (Espresso), I couldn't notice it indoors but it is glaringly apparent when in the sun. The phones go back tomorrow. I've had my G1 for a year and a half with not a single spec of dust under the screen. I've had 2 MT3G Slides (Espresso) for 6 days and dust is under both screens; these devices are very cheaply made. Phone is lightning fast, screen size is great, physical keyboard is great, UI has some excellent features you can find nowhere else ... too bad I won't be keeping them. Been nice knowing you guys.
Seriously everyone be lucky that this is the only problem that people are having with this phone. You want to talk about shoddy build quality on first run devices, lets not even mention what the original PSP was like. If all that's wrong is that a few people have a bad bezel, then I'd say you made out well with the phone. NJAZ, just exchange them and have the employee test them at the store before you walk out with it, problem solved.
xenoletum said:
NJAZ, just exchange them and have the employee test them at the store before you walk out with it, problem solved.
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Well I have to send them back as I ordered them online. 2 phones plus about 5 other people I know with these phones have dust blowing in under the defective bezel. It's unacceptable. Like I care about a PSP. What the hell does a PSP have to do with this? You didn't even comment on your phone having the light leaks/gaps or not. What is your point? You think folks should settle for inferior builds of an expensive phone? You can ignore whatever you'd like. I will wait for a better phone.
Wanted to add to my previous post about mine not having the leak... I have the red one.
I took off my Otterbox case and while cleaning it looked at the G2 up close from various angles and this is what I noticed on mine. If you look at the G2 on a flat plane (eye level), the sides of the phone is slightly more elevated than the screen at the center of the phone (phone is horizontal). In other words the screen doesnt sit flush with the casing on the sides. Both sides look similar in terms of the "gap" going down the phone. Screen is a bit lower than edge at the center and then almost flush at the bottom and flush at the top. Can someone verify that the screen does or doesnt sit flush with the sides?
To begin with my device is a Desire Z not a G2 but I assume this has no incidence.
I notice the same thing as you on the left side of my screen but on the right side the screen is never at the same level as the edge. The difference between the centre and the top/botttom parts is tiny on the right side.
Well...
my g2 doesnt have a flush screen/case and i read somewhere this was on purpose for screen protectors and now with one on it the screen/case are flush/very very close. Hope this helps!
I've got it too. From what your describing, it seems like there is a gap between the screen and the phone. Very slight though.
sent from my V I S I O N.
Thanks for those that responded and cleared that up. As soon as I got my G2 I put a case on it and never observed it closely enough to notice that "gap." Made me concerned since I thought it was suppose to be flush.
Hi all,
Got my UK TF101 today and loving it.
However the finish is not that good. The small plastic strip between the glass and the bronze edge of the casing has remnants of the glue used during the assembly and it won't come off. Looks like it has been rush assembled and makes it look tatty. Would be a shame to return it just for that but when you spend this money and see what finish iPads have you really want it to be mint.
Does any one else have this problem on their TF101?
Unless they have changed the manufacturing process for newer devices, there's no glue anywhere near the casing/bezel.
I have some glue on the top of the black strip on the top-left (when holding the tablet in landscape mode). I only noticed it when I had my desk lamp shining on it. It wasn't present on the other TF I had at the moment. Doesn't really bother me that much.
Yeah, mine arrived today and has the same thing. The rubber's not quite flush with the screen and its mount, but it really doesn't matter.
Overall very impressed with the device so far. I certainly won't be sending it back over that small defect. We live in an imperfect world..!
Yup. But eventually after some use it wore off.
Mine just arrived today I can see some remnants of what appears to be glue both bottom & left side. Also it appears that the 1/2 section on the rubber on the right side has been rubbed down.
Quite agree it won't affect the use of the device but when you see how sharp a finish the iPad has it is a shame to not be perfect on the TF101.
I called Comet and they were happy to do a swap. When I popped in to the local store the Customer Service Desk chap admitted I was the third person with this problem. He got another one from stock and it was better but still a bit of dried glue. He offered an exchange or 10% refund. I decided to go with the 10% refund so got £43 back. I can now live with the problem.
If others want to see what we are on about here is a pic of my bezel. Right hand side is as I would expect but the top strip is very messy and slightly raised compared to the flush fitting section.
aerotec said:
If others want to see what we are on about here is a pic of my bezel. Right hand side is as I would expect but the top strip is very messy and slightly raised compared to the flush fitting section.
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Thx for the pic, it's good to see what you were describing. I've looked really closely at my device and I still cant see any glue on mine. It looks like the manufacturing process has changed since they started production, not for the better in this case it seems. That certainly is a fair amount of money off though.
Had glue on mine too, I thought it had been refurbed and returned it for another unit. This one was checked in store and appears perfect.
Introduction:
When a button mechanically clicks, that is the signal to you that you've done your part and you should expect the button to do its part. While I've seen this on several other devices, the Nexus7 2013 apparently has a widespread problem which manifests itself in "having to press the power button a certain way". This is caused by the glue used to assemble the buttons having seeped under the contacts.
Here's the fix.
You will need:
A gituar pick
Rubbing alcohol
A Q-Tip
Superglue
Instructions:
1. Remove the back cover from the device with a gitaur pick.
2. Peel up the tape/laminate covering the power button.
click for larger picture
3. Clean off both contact surfaces using rubbing alcohol.
click for larger picture
4. Reassemble the switch by replacing the tape
5. Using just a dab of glue on the edge of the button assembly, secure the button tape/lamination back into place.
6. Reassemble the device.
Conclusion:
And that's all there is to it. You may decide to skip the superglue during reassembly, but its a good idea to use it generally as removing the tape weakens the hold of the manufacturer's adhesive.
Make no mistakes, this is a manufacturing defect and you should have the ability to return the device to get a new one if you experience this problem. But, after this procedure, the power button should work easily, every time.
I was wondering if I was the only one!
So what else can we do while we are in there?
silentheero said:
I was wondering if I was the only one!
So what else can we do while we are in there?
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Xdatv is coming up on Wednesday and I will add that into here..
Glad to see the fix is easy. Not surprised to see the issue since Asus has just been making crap in terms of quality for a while now. Nexus 7 was better then I thought not having the crap asus quality but the new one has Asus all over it. Used Asus stuff for years and after the crap G75 laptop I had I will never get anything made by Asus. Sucks I wanted a new nexus 7 guess I'll wait till Samsung or lg or Motorola makes the third version.
Asus has just dropped off a cliff the past few years. They dident even go downhill they went from great to utter budget crap even the ROG line. Waiting to see the last great Asus products go down the same way. The Rog mobos. I was really hoping Google would push some weight saying they have to do some QC on the nexus 7.
Anyways great guide. But I'll add that on electronics you want 90%+ alch. Get the colorless with no scents added. Those leave traces behind. Should not matter on buttons like this but if anyone was wondering if they could use the red or green alch. I advise you to get the highest % with no colors or sents added. At my work for cleaning pcb's we use 98% but anything over 85% is great.
This is great to find out and I really want to do this as mine suffers from this problem quite badly but I'm hoping for just a bit more detail (and that it might be helpful for others as well).
Guitar picks come in all kinds of gauges. What did you use? (Or can you at least tell us if it was a heavy, med, or light by what manufacturer?)
Are the plastic pegs (or whatever is) holding the back on very fragile? And chance of a pic of the inside of the back so we can see where they are placed?
Thanks.
mjoa68 said:
This is great to find out and I really want to do this as mine suffers from this problem quite badly but I'm hoping for just a bit more detail (and that it might be helpful for others as well).
Guitar picks come in all kinds of gauges. What did you use? (Or can you at least tell us if it was a heavy, med, or light by what manufacturer?)
Are the plastic pegs (or whatever is) holding the back on very fragile? And chance of a pic of the inside of the back so we can see where they are placed?
Thanks.
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Medium is probly best. I've got a teardown video coming up on Monday.
AdamOutler said:
Medium is probly best. I've got a teardown video coming up on Monday.
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Thanks. Good to know there is a video coming. I got impatient and just went ahead anyway.
One thing I learned is to not start by the buttons if you can (even though the case is a bit weaker and more flexible there) because you can't really work your way around the bottom due to the usb port, and if you attempt to work your way around the top corner that has the camera in it you may very well crack the case there like I did. Didn't notice until I had it back on but there is a hair line crack running from the corner to the hole that the camera looks through. It's only noticeable if you really look for it and everything is held together just fine but thought I'd mention it in case it helps anyone else avoid the same mistake. I'd say that corner will be prone to that due to the camera hole being so close to corner edge that you are trying to pry off.
Once I finished I tried again with my brother's N7 but this time started opening from the long edge opposite the buttons and worked my way around the corner to the top edge. This allowed me to essentially just pull the case off the other top corner by the camera (with the help of a bit of careful prodding with the guitar pic) and then, once I'd freed the case from the top and sides, pull it downwards away from the USB port. (Probably obvious to most but I didn't really realize until I'd done the first one that the USB port anchors the case in place so the bottom edge must come off last, and be put back on first.)
Another thing to be aware of is that there is a very small black rubber grommet sitting over the microphone port (rectangular with a round hole in the middle). It fell off when I opened the first case but I just made sure to seat it properly before putting the case back on. It didn't move when I did the second case since I was a little less rough that time around but something to be aware of and look out for. It's pretty teeny and would be easy to lose without even noticing.
Happy to report that this really did the trick in both cases. Even though I couldn't see any glue on the contacts before cleaning, both units now wake/sleep with every click, whereas before it only worked 70-80% of the time.
I'm sure it will be worth waiting for the video Adam is planning but just thought I'd share in case anyone is as impatient as me.
mjoa68 said:
Thanks. Good to know there is a video coming. I got impatient and just went ahead anyway.
One thing I learned is to not start by the buttons if you can (even though the case is a bit weaker and more flexible there) because you can't really work your way around the bottom due to the usb port, and if you attempt to work your way around the top corner that has the camera in it you may very well crack the case there like I did. Didn't notice until I had it back on but there is a hair line crack running from the corner to the hole that the camera looks through. It's only noticeable if you really look for it and everything is held together just fine but thought I'd mention it in case it helps anyone else avoid the same mistake. I'd say that corner will be prone to that due to the camera hole being so close to corner edge that you are trying to pry off.
Once I finished I tried again with my brother's N7 but this time started opening from the long edge opposite the buttons and worked my way around the corner to the top edge. This allowed me to essentially just pull the case off the other top corner by the camera (with the help of a bit of careful prodding with the guitar pic) and then, once I'd freed the case from the top and sides, pull it downwards away from the USB port. (Probably obvious to most but I didn't really realize until I'd done the first one that the USB port anchors the case in place so the bottom edge must come off last, and be put back on first.)
Another thing to be aware of is that there is a very small black rubber grommet sitting over the microphone port (rectangular with a round hole in the middle). It fell off when I opened the first case but I just made sure to seat it properly before putting the case back on. It didn't move when I did the second case since I was a little less rough that time around but something to be aware of and look out for. It's pretty teeny and would be easy to lose without even noticing.
Happy to report that this really did the trick in both cases. Even though I couldn't see any glue on the contacts before cleaning, both units now wake/sleep with every click, whereas before it only worked 70-80% of the time.
I'm sure it will be worth waiting for the video Adam is planning but just thought I'd share in case anyone is as impatient as me.
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Awesome instructions! I couldn't have stated it better. It really is a tight case though. I think starting near the buttons is fine but I worked around the top corner.
AdamOutler said:
Awesome instructions! I couldn't have stated it better. It really is a tight case though. I think starting near the buttons is fine but I worked around the top corner.
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Yes, it is definitely much easier to get into the case starting near the buttons as there's more flex to it there. I suppose a better way to say it might be that if you can get started on the opposite side you will avoid possibly cracking it near the camera like I did. But you'd probably be fine starting near the buttons as long as you're very careful (and not as clumsy or impatient as I was ) working around that first corner.
I aint never had to open up anything like this and will have to to replace my screen. So glad I found this thread first and will be sure to check out the unboxing video before I do. and Yes isopropyl is a much better cleaner than other alcohol based solutions. Gonna do them buttons while Im in there.
I would not be nearly as daring to attempt any of this without the guidance from seasoned members. Thank you so much!!
Thank you so much! the power and volume buttons worked again flawlessly!
But I damaged my N7 13's thin black metal like bezels around the screen when I'm trying to open it, that stuff is really fragile :/
i did this, but i also placed on the power button contact a small piece of 'thickener'... in my case it came from a double sided tape. the sticky part contact on the power button contact, and the other side which has the cover (of the double sided tape), i didn't remove that cover. effectively, a small 'thickener'. then close back the device. fixed!
Adam, a quick question on this power/volume button thread. I got my Nexus 7 2013 version very briefly wet - I mean for a micro second. It does charge, but it won't power up. I can get it into bootloader and the volume buttons work, however, the power button does not. Is there a good way to test the power button using a multimeter or, should I just go ahead and replace the power button/volume button strip completely and hope that does the trick?
Thanks!
Chris
Chris: wet Nexus 7 bootloader only with volume buttons
Hi Chris,
My nan also got her tablet wet and can only access the bottloader with the volume buttons. Did you find a solution to make the power button work in the end? I've got a very useless paper weight sat around :/
Mike
I lost the rubber mic grommet replacing a cracked screen even knowing it was there. After 20 plus years coding with shot eyes, I paid my 2 nephews to come over and crawl around to find it (wife's phone - nuff said). Still took over an hour to find. So I put a small amount of rubber adhesive around the edges to make it fit snug. I've had it apart 4 times since and it stays put.
Sent from Ponius using XDA-Developers Legacy app
I have noticed that one of the sides of the phone when you lay top of the screen corner on table then you can see slight curve going from edge to edge and another side almost does not. This is my third replacement one of earlier ones had the same curve but only to the opposite side and almost same degree as this one. Screen is not separating and this was even since I took it from retailer. (Tried to show them but they told that it is completely straight) so I forgot about that and mooved on. So is there anyone maybe who has same issue here ?
P.s. phone has never been kept in any (back,front) jeans pocket.
Thank you for your answers.
Rolandas
Rolandas93 said:
I have noticed that one of the sides of the phone when you lay top of the screen corner on table then you can see slight curve going from edge to edge and another side almost does not. This is my third replacement one of earlier ones had the same curve but only to the opposite side and almost same degree as this one. Screen is not separating and this was even since I took it from retailer. (Tried to show them but they told that it is completely straight) so I forgot about that and mooved on. So is there anyone maybe who has same issue here ?
P.s. phone has never been kept in any (back,front) jeans pocket.
Thank you for your answers.
Rolandas
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I dunno. Looks pretty straight to me. Ill give you this --the phone has a very unique build to it. I lay it down on the wireless charger at night and depending on the angle it does appear to have a bend to it. But when I pick it up to examine it it seems fine.
Maybe a little optical illusion combined with stories (real and fake) of phones bending?