Loose back cover...fixed - Droid Incredible General

This may seem trivial to most of you, but it was annoying me to no end. After numerous battery pulls and a slightly larger 1500mAH battery, the lower connection of my back cover (battery cover) was loose. So every time I picked up the phone, or went to press the trackball it made a creaky sound. Minor to some, but those of you who idolize your Incredible will know what I mean.
I spent some time with it today and found out that it was due to the bottom hooks coming loose. They seem to be on some sort of spring-action, which wears out over time and does not hold the cover on tightly any longer.
I fixed this by cutting off some tiny pieces of a black twist-tie and wedging it into the top of the little hook with a tweezer and tack. This holds the hook in place and, in turn, keeps the back cover from coming loose. So far it's been working great.
I apologize for the trivial post, but I saw this on several other forums and preferred this solution to the business card, electrical tape workarounds I read elsewhere.

Related

G1 just not turning on...

Hi to all, my g1 does not turn on by any means..I have done everything from CPR to dressing in aluminium under a thunderstorm today in NY. if there is any way I could resuscitate this device, I will be very thankful.
does anything happen while the charger is in?
nothing at all. not even the led turns on when I connect it
the battery is probably dead
tested the battery on my other g1, perfect. the other battery on the damaged phone, Nothing.....
Sounds like you may have experienced a hardware failure of some sort then. I would suggest contacting HTC about doing a warranty RMA.
I had the same issue with a G1.
Pull the battery and look at the pins. Use a device to straighten and even out all the pins. While doing so, make sure to short all pins together. This should clear out any remaining stored power in the device.
The pins in my device were only slightly uneven and this brought the unit back from death. I'm not sure if the connections to the battery are fragile or if the connectors to the pins are what went bad. However, give it a try.
Jon
My guess is
The motherboard short circuited. I fix G1's as a side job/hobby and I have come across a couple G1's where it wouldn't turn on what so ever or give any sign that the G1 still had a soul. The reason this happens is either that the g1 was dropped, causing the motherboard to short circuit or the g1 got partially wet inside/humidity and when you connected it, the electricity started killing your phone little by little until it was completely dead. But either way my guess is that your motherboard short circuited out. HTC will repair it but for about $160 I believe
I am having a similar problem. Mine turns on, but shortly after will black out. Seems to mostly stem from pressure or contact with the lower portion of the phone where the buttons are located.
I had a problem like that. I just called T-mobile, and they were VERY cool about it and fast. I think I was on the phone with them 10 minutes. They sent me a new G1 for free, they even paid the postage to send it to me, and for me to send it back to them. Just make sure on those 2 with dots under your battery none of it turned red. I did the same thing with my daughter's sidekick and there was a small bit of red on the white dot and they charged me 100 bucks. They said it would take 7 to 10 business days to come and it was at my house in 3 days.. not bad eh?

[Q] Resurrect HD2 from the dead?

By now I feel like the unluckiest person on this planet...
About two months ago, I lost my HD2 and of course whoever found it didn't return it. Then about a month ago, I bought another used HD2. The battery cover was severely scratched and there was some light damage at the corners so I ordered a new housing on eBay. In the mean time I have been installing all kinds of stuff on it but didn't actually use it as a phone (didn't insert my SIM card) because I wanted to wait for the new housing and for a protective silicon case - I didn't want to use the phone "unprotected".
I have replaced the housing of dozens of phones before so I know what I'm doing and what to look out for (I'm an electronics engineer) and replacing the housing of the HD2 was actually surprisingly easy.
When I put the phone back together again, it wouldn't turn on. At all. And when I put it on the charger, the charger light wouldn't come on. So I just opened up the housing again and put it back together. This time it did turn on. Figuring that was the end of it and that something probably wasn't making proper contact, I left it at that.
That was two weeks ago. Since then, the phone has been on all the time (in the charger) and I have been installing more stuff without any problems. Yesterday the protective silicon sleeve finally arrived so I inserted my SIM card and finally started using it as a proper phone. But today, all of a sudden it didn't want to turn on again. I had used the phone 10 minutes before (storing a contact).
I opened the housing again and checked if I could see anything loose, or not making proper contact but didn't see anything.
It still won't turn on again.
Is this HD2 deceased? The battery is fully charged BTW (and I tried another battery).
Anything I could try?
Triple check and make sure all battery pins are straight. when the battery is inserted, they need to be pressed down and inwards towards the middle of the phone. Be sure you don't have one being forced up or anything like that. I'd re open the case one more time and slightly bend the ground prongs on the board and flex cable assemblies back up just a hair to make sure they make good contact. Other than that the phone can actually power on without the back housing on at all so grounding to get it to power on isn't that crucial.

[Q] Battery or Logic Board failure?

So the other day while minding my own business, I pulled out my phone to use it's calculator for some accounting work. Just as a side note, I keep my phone in my front pocket, and do not wear skinny jeans. When I pulled it out, I looked at the back and it had a crack going down the center of the glass with a slight bulge where the battery is. As soon as I got home, I pulled the battery out and saw that the backside was bulging outwards. It bulged so bad that it managed to crack the glass even with one of those gel-like protectors on it . I tossed it aside and put it my spare battery, which should have been good. This is where the interesting stuff starts happening.
Slowly but surely, the lifespan of my battery would get shorter till the point where as soon as I unplugged it, it would die. It got so bad that It would die around 95%. When it would charge, the percentage would vary a lot, making a very interesting graph in the battery app I have. Not only that, but sometimes when I would restart my phone, it would be a completely different percentage than it was before. On top of that, when the phone would die, it would be at a different percentage than when it was still alive. I would have to plug it into a charger in order for it to start up again. If I did not, it would sometimes get into a boot loop where it would say google, turn off, then turn itself back on, rinse and repeat until I held the power button forcing it off.
After I changed the battery, I rooted it and put the Carbon nightly rom on it, but in order to eliminate possible problems, I did do a factory reset to the phone to make sure it was either of those.
Now I did put a "new" battery from ebay in it, but I am still having the same issue. However, the battery I believe was not new because it still had glue on the back of it from a previous nexus. My actual new battery should be here tomorrow I hope.
Could there be a problem with the batteries, or could there be a problem with my logic board? I have tried two different chargers, the LG one provided with the phone, and a rocket fish wall charger, same problem. Attached are two different pictures of the battery graph. The sharp drops are where it dies, and the sawtooth wave is it on charge. (Don't hurt me! I know I'm not supposed to post outside links, but this is absolutely necessary for you wonderful people to help me! Just remove the space in the link and it will work)
http: //i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x345/Foxx1996/Screenshot_2014-05-08-19-50-58_zps1fdf4967.png
http: //i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x345/Foxx1996/Screenshot_2014-04-28-08-34-42_zps7a396d8d.png

Zuk Z2(plus) not charging fix

So my brother's zuk z2 has been broken for months now, and no repair shop could repair the phone.
I did a lot of digging and i found out that zuk z2 has a problem with quick charge 3.0 (It technically supports it but it doesn't have the necessary hardware for it)
If your zuk z2 (plus) has these symptomes this fix is guaranteed to work
Not charging.
Not turning on (Sometimes it might turn on).
Notification light blinking.
Heating in the lower part of the phone near the charging port. (If your zuk doesn't do that, then removing the cx chip will only disable fast charging)
The problem:This tiny chip with cx on it: https://i.imgur.com/YD8Eh2b.jpg
This chip is responsible for quick charge and it only supports quick charge from the original charger (that is what i was told).
When charging with an qc charger it may short out. That is where the heat is coming from.
The solution
You need to remove that chip.
You can just pry on it with a screwdriver and it pops out like its meant to do that.
Anyone can do this procedure at home, but you need a phone repair kit(<1$ online).
Or you can take your phone to the local repair guy and send them a link to this guide.
If you decide to do this by yourself i advise you to watch a teardown video, because there are some plastic tabs that you don't want to break.
1) First off, remove the sim card tray and then you need to remove the back glass, use a hair drier at the lowest setting and heat the lower part of the back of the phone (where the zuk logo is) around the perimeter.
When the glass is hot, use a suction cup to lift the glass and then use a plastic tool (only plastic tools) to slice the adhesive.
Try the suction cup method 3-4 times with heating, because the suction cup may not be strong enough to lift the glass up.
If the suction cup is not strong enough to lift the glass away, use a very thin and short piece of metal, wedge it between the glass and the plastic body (this will slightly damage the plastic) and the glass should pop out if it's hot.
Be very careful at the left upper side of the phone (the camera side) because there is the volume and power button ribbon and the battery ribbon. You don't want to damage those.
This is maybe the hardest part of this teardown.
This is how it looks like once the back cover is off: https://i.imgur.com/XGD5m7F.jpg
2) Because the chip is on the back side of the motherboard you will need to remove almost every component except the battery and some other smaller components.
Remove all screws.
Attention! one screw is under the battery ribbon.
Then try to remove the plastic.
The top plastic piece needs to be pulled from the opposite side of the back camera because there is a plastic latch near the back camera.
Pull that plastic piece up and then to the left (away from the back camera).
The lower plastic piece should be pulled from the upper most part, but it should be pulled first up and then pulled towards the top side.
If the piece doesn't move you need to remove residual adhesive or try to remove the lower plastic piece from the headphone jack side.
This is how it should look like without the plastic top cover: https://i.imgur.com/qEtXTg7.jpg
This is how it looks like without the bottom plastic piece:https://i.imgur.com/RlVhDQK.jpg
The problematic chip is in the red circle, but it is on the other side of the motherboard.
3)Unclip the connections, the antenna connectors, and the selfie camera.
By this point you should have removed the sim card tray, if not remove it NOW.
4)Remove the motherboard with the back camera (its held with some copper tape).
Inspect the charging port.
It should look something like this: https://i.imgur.com/bKiN5tG.jpg
The chip is very small.
This is how the chip looks like when removed: https://i.imgur.com/fCSJBds.jpg
This is the chip you want to remove: The one with CX on it!
This chip: https://i.imgur.com/YD8Eh2b.jpg
5)Remove the chip with something made out of metal, like a screwdriver.
6)Reassemble the phone and enjoy your charging phone.
Also this is why you would want to do it yourself.
This is what a "repair guy" did to the phone: https://i.imgur.com/5BiMn6s.jpg
He said that there was a short on the motherboard and the phone is completely dead.
The phone works, but now i don't have a power/volume button.
He obviously used a metal tool, as seen by the scratches left on the metal inside the phone.
So don't use a metal tool.
Edit: Removing this chip will only disable fast charging, if your device is perfectly working, or has different symptomes, don't remove this chip.
Edit2: The thread was broken,(only one image was showing). My dumb ass inserted the images wrongly.
Will removing this enable quick charge 3.0 support on our device ?
troublesom said:
Will removing this enable quick charge 3.0 support on our device ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No
My phone is bot charging. So will removing this chip make it charging again??
And how it is so that without that chip it will work properly??
Does OTG work after removing it?
Sandeep7974 said:
My phone is bot charging. So will removing this chip make it charging again??
And how it is so that without that chip it will work properly??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't remove it .it regulates charging speed and safety
spandu500 said:
Does OTG work after removing it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It does.
zuk z2 plus
thanks bro
its work for me
It did not work for me, unfortunately. I removed the black part of the chip and the problem continued, just stopped blinking the led and vibrated continuously. I removed the silver part of the chip and nothing, it continued in the same way without charging. But I figured out a way to charge it, I entered the TWRP menu, (by clicking on the power button to enter the recovery it would turn off, then I pressed the button to enter the recovery, it hung up and when it was already on the twrp). At the TWRP recovery I connected the charger, and then the ZUK started charging the battery more slowly than normal, but it charged 100%. I have it for at least 2 years, I always used the original charger, only 2 or 3 months I changed the cable that broke. So I believe this is not a hardware problem, but a software problem. I use the Cardinal rom, but it seems that this happens in any rom ...
Isaías J. said:
It did not work for me, unfortunately. I removed the black part of the chip and the problem continued, just stopped blinking the led and vibrated continuously. I removed the silver part of the chip and nothing, it continued in the same way without charging. But I figured out a way to charge it, I entered the TWRP menu, (by clicking on the power button to enter the recovery it would turn off, then I pressed the button to enter the recovery, it hung up and when it was already on the twrp). At the TWRP recovery I connected the charger, and then the ZUK started charging the battery more slowly than normal, but it charged 100%. I have it for at least 2 years, I always used the original charger, only 2 or 3 months I changed the cable that broke. So I believe this is not a hardware problem, but a software problem. I use the Cardinal rom, but it seems that this happens in any rom ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am sorry for you.
I really don't know if there can be such a software problem. (have you tried clean flashing?)
Did your phone heat up a lot when charging in the usb area?
Did the procedure fix the heating?
If it charges in any way, that is not a hardware problem.
Are you using any kind of rom tweaking apps (like kernel adiutor or smartpack kernel manager) if yes check in the battery section if charging is enabled or just uninstall them.
Try flashing the stock rom.
I know it is a pain in the butt to try all of these things, especially if your zuk is your primary phone (my zuk is not my primary phone and it has a problem with flashing custom roms that i haven't fixed in months)
I didn't try the original rom, it's too bad. It also has no kernel or overclocking app. Moreover, the device did not heat up in the usb area, only in the area of ​​the processor, when it was charging, was always like this. What made a difference before the problem was that it got too hot, especially playing pupg, which I've done a lot in the last few days, and then he hung up. He always hung up, but it was rare to happen, days before the problem he started to hang up almost every day.
But I have something new, I saw the gmail notification of your message yesterday, so today I came to respond. The device was in the TWRP menu, charging, I turned on the system and the led turned on. As I write the battery charged 10%!
JoraForever said:
I am sorry for you.
I really don't know if there can be such a software problem. (have you tried clean flashing?)
Did your phone heat up a lot when charging in the usb area?
Did the procedure fix the heating?
If it charges in any way, that is not a hardware problem.
Are you using any kind of rom tweaking apps (like kernel adiutor or smartpack kernel manager) if yes check in the battery section if charging is enabled or just uninstall them.
Try flashing the stock rom.
I know it is a pain in the butt to try all of these things, especially if your zuk is your primary phone (my zuk is not my primary phone and it has a problem with flashing custom roms that i haven't fixed in months)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And the problem returns.
thank you i try remove the cx chip and it work after remove it charging decreased a bit from 2100 ma to 1980 ma and volt from 4.4 to 4.1:fingers-crossed::fingers-crossed:
Working, thanks!
it worked for me! many thanks!
JoraForever said:
So my brother's zuk z2 has been broken for months now, and no repair shop could repair the phone.
I did a lot of digging and i found out that zuk z2 has a problem with quick charge 3.0 (It technically supports it but it doesn't have the necessary hardware for it)
If your zuk z2 (plus) has these symptomes this fix is guaranteed to work
Not charging.
Not turning on (Sometimes it might turn on).
Notification light blinking.
Heating in the lower part of the phone near the charging port. (If your zuk doesn't do that, then removing the cx chip will only disable fast charging)
The problem:This tiny chip with cx on it: https://i.imgur.com/YD8Eh2b.jpg
This chip is responsible for quick charge and it only supports quick charge from the original charger (that is what i was told).
When charging with an qc charger it may short out. That is where the heat is coming from.
The solution
You need to remove that chip.
You can just pry on it with a screwdriver and it pops out like its meant to do that.
Anyone can do this procedure at home, but you need a phone repair kit(<1$ online).
Or you can take your phone to the local repair guy and send them a link to this guide.
If you decide to do this by yourself i advise you to watch a teardown video, because there are some plastic tabs that you don't want to break.
1) First off, remove the sim card tray and then you need to remove the back glass, use a hair drier at the lowest setting and heat the lower part of the back of the phone (where the zuk logo is) around the perimeter.
When the glass is hot, use a suction cup to lift the glass and then use a plastic tool (only plastic tools) to slice the adhesive.
Try the suction cup method 3-4 times with heating, because the suction cup may not be strong enough to lift the glass up.
If the suction cup is not strong enough to lift the glass away, use a very thin and short piece of metal, wedge it between the glass and the plastic body (this will slightly damage the plastic) and the glass should pop out if it's hot.
Be very careful at the left upper side of the phone (the camera side) because there is the volume and power button ribbon and the battery ribbon. You don't want to damage those.
This is maybe the hardest part of this teardown.
This is how it looks like once the back cover is off: https://i.imgur.com/XGD5m7F.jpg
2) Because the chip is on the back side of the motherboard you will need to remove almost every component except the battery and some other smaller components.
Remove all screws.
Attention! one screw is under the battery ribbon.
Then try to remove the plastic.
The top plastic piece needs to be pulled from the opposite side of the back camera because there is a plastic latch near the back camera.
Pull that plastic piece up and then to the left (away from the back camera).
The lower plastic piece should be pulled from the upper most part, but it should be pulled first up and then pulled towards the top side.
If the piece doesn't move you need to remove residual adhesive or try to remove the lower plastic piece from the headphone jack side.
This is how it should look like without the plastic top cover: https://i.imgur.com/qEtXTg7.jpg
This is how it looks like without the bottom plastic piece:https://i.imgur.com/RlVhDQK.jpg
The problematic chip is in the red circle, but it is on the other side of the motherboard.
3)Unclip the connections, the antenna connectors, and the selfie camera.
By this point you should have removed the sim card tray, if not remove it NOW.
4)Remove the motherboard with the back camera (its held with some copper tape).
Inspect the charging port.
It should look something like this: https://i.imgur.com/bKiN5tG.jpg
The chip is very small.
This is how the chip looks like when removed: https://i.imgur.com/fCSJBds.jpg
This is the chip you want to remove: The one with CX on it!
This chip: https://i.imgur.com/YD8Eh2b.jpg
5)Remove the chip with something made out of metal, like a screwdriver.
6)Reassemble the phone and enjoy your charging phone.
Also this is why you would want to do it yourself.
This is what a "repair guy" did to the phone: https://i.imgur.com/5BiMn6s.jpg
He said that there was a short on the motherboard and the phone is completely dead.
The phone works, but now i don't have a power/volume button.
He obviously used a metal tool, as seen by the scratches left on the metal inside the phone.
So don't use a metal tool.
Edit: Removing this chip will only disable fast charging, if your device is perfectly working, or has different symptomes, don't remove this chip.
Edit2: The thread was broken,(only one image was showing). My dumb ass inserted the images wrongly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much for this post, I have just done this and my zuk is charging again! Thank you sir for this post! :fingers-crossed: :good:
I deleted this chip, but after that it stopped connecting to the PC. The drivers all stood, the cable was working. Then I had the urge to change the firmware to https://forum.xda-developers.com/le...rom-flyme-7-3-0-0a-zuk-z2-plus-bylzy-t3923861, but he went into the bootloop, and then probably the battery played Darth Vader in Return of the Jedi.
Removal of the chip fixed my ZUK as well!
Thank you TS!!!
I must really thank you for the guide. My phone stopped charging suddenly, tried different cables, chargers, etc and none worked. I was about to go buy a new phone and somehow stumbled on this thread. After a few days getting the courage to open the phone, i did it, followed the guide and now it is charging!!
Thank you very much!!!
Big thanks, my zuk is now working again :good:

Glowlight 3: Advice on how to open and replace screen

I have a bricked NGL 3 with a perfect screen, and a non-bricked NGL 3 with a very slightly defective screen. I toying with the idea of removing the perfect screen from the bricked NGL 3, and putting it in the non-bricked NGL 3.
I watched a video on how to do it with a Kindle. It seems simple enough. Open it up, remove screws from mboard, unclip or unplug any connectors, pull out mobo, pull out screen, insert new screen, then put everything back.
I'm a little uncertain how to remove the plugs and ribbon cables. I don't want to force anything when it's not meant to be.
I've attached an image with the plugs ringed in red. Any advice on how to undo and refasten the plugs, and any other advice would be appreciated. I guess I don't have to undo all the plugs.
The image tag doesn't see to work, so here's the link to it.
https://ibb.co/Wy6S3xm
and another in case that doesn't work.
https://imgur.com/a/fLqolIE
All the flex printed circuit (FPC) connectors have a little flip-up retainer on the far side.
You just need to slip a fingernail under it to pry it up.
When reinserting, make sure that the FPC is inserted fully.
That's what the little white line is for.
Then push down the retainer.
The battery connector in white is a bit the same, you just have to pry the far side up gently.
When reinserting, mate the near side, then push down.
If you are swapping displays, the optimal solution is to adjust the Vcom voltage (which might be different).
Look at the little tag, it says something like -2.25.
Don't worry, it's not a biggie, you can do it later.

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