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I cracked my screen pretty badly this weekend and am planning on ordering the replacement parts this week (debating the just glass or the new glass/LCD options). But I've noticed since then(last 2 days) the battery has drained pretty fast. Normally I get 2 days from a charge, today I pulled the phone off the cord at 8am and now at 3pm I got a pop-up saying <10%. The phone has only sat on the desk. No calls, no emails, no text, no web surfing.
Maybe the screen is getting mixed signals, being cracked and all.
Any ideas?
mattlikesbikes said:
I cracked my screen pretty badly this weekend and am planning on ordering the replacement parts this week (debating the just glass or the new glass/LCD options). But I've noticed since then(last 2 days) the battery has drained pretty fast. Normally I get 2 days from a charge, today I pulled the phone off the cord at 8am and now at 3pm I got a pop-up saying <10%. The phone has only sat on the desk. No calls, no emails, no text, no web surfing.
Maybe the screen is getting mixed signals, being cracked and all.
Any ideas?
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I am not really knowledgable about the exact interworkings of the HD2's internal hardware. But I do think it would be a pretty fair assumption that the cracked screen could be the cause of the sudden battery drain. You know your HD2 better than anybody else would as far as daily functionality of your HD2. So if it was not having a battery drain before you cracked the screen. And now you do after and this is the singular change in the state of the HD2 be it hardware wise or software wise. Then logic would say that is it.
Have you thought any about it might not just be the screen that is cracked. What about the internals. How hard did it hit, and how hard was the object the phone hit????
One last thing, be nice to your HD2, it is nice to you. ha ha ha....... But really take it easy on the hardware.
I trimmed the tape on it down to only covering the glass (finger protection mostly) and got it off the edges and out from around the back. This seemed to really help. I've noticed from the beginning of owning this phone that there are some sensitive spots on the sides that when pressure is applied the phone acts like a button was pressed etc. So I must have been causing this. Even with the screen off it was still reading a button push and having to process this action, using power.
I need to find a hard shell for the phone. The rubber thing that came with it is useless as it sticks in your pocket, I need smooth hard plastic I guess. The phone slipped out of my hand as I was getting out of the car and landed face down. Pure accident.
mattlikesbikes said:
I trimmed the tape on it down to only covering the glass (finger protection mostly) and got it off the edges and out from around the back. This seemed to really help. I've noticed from the beginning of owning this phone that there are some sensitive spots on the sides that when pressure is applied the phone acts like a button was pressed etc. So I must have been causing this. Even with the screen off it was still reading a button push and having to process this action, using power.
I need to find a hard shell for the phone. The rubber thing that came with it is useless as it sticks in your pocket, I need smooth hard plastic I guess. The phone slipped out of my hand as I was getting out of the car and landed face down. Pure accident.
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I too have notice the same thing about my HD2 that ertain areas around the edge are sensative, like you said almost like you were pressing abutton of some sort. I am glad you figured something out that helps stop the battery drain. I know that can be agrevating as hell.
If you have a T-Mobile HD2 like I do you could try the Body Glove. I have one on mine, it is a two piece hard plastic cover you HD2 slides up in. ig has a pull out kickstand on the back also, I really like it. It has help protect my HD2 several times when I accidently dropped it out of my hand. I do warn you though after having it on your HD2 for awhile it will make to little scuff marks of the clear coat on your battery cover. Also I have notice I have to make sure I have a ferm grip on it when I pick it up cause the plastic cover is a little slick not like when gou have the rubber case on it. I attached two photos of the cover, oh and you can buy it from T-mobile store or from the T-Mobile website. I suggest website it is cheaper there.
I bought this phone on Ebay and instantly fell in love with it. It was pretty much perfect for me, I loved the big screen for my big sausage fingers, I loved how responsive it is, etc. The only thing I wasn't in love with was the battery life, but I got used to it too.
Like any responsible owner I ordered a screen protector and a flip case the day I bought the phone. Unfortunately they did not arrive as quickly as the phone did (within three days).
So I was at work one day and had put the phone into my top shirt pocket. As there was a big spider on one of our cameras, I decided to grab a stick and remove it. I found a nice stick that I liked and threw it up in the air while walking towards the camera whistling. It was a nice sunny day and I was in a good mood, what a perfect morning. Or so I thought.
I threw the stick a little too ambitiously into the air and couldn't quite manage to catch it. It dropped on the ground in front of me. Still in good spirits and still whistling, I bent down to pick it up.
*Flap!*
All of the sudden my good mood was gone and I'm pretty sure a dark cloud swiftly moved in front of the sun.
My new shiny Desire HD was lying on the ground. Face down.
I stood there for what may have been twenty seconds, but felt like an eternity, not sure whether I dared picking up the phone. Finally I summoned enough courage to do so. To my disappointment I had to realise my worst fear, the digitiser on the phone was smashed into a hundred pieces.
For the remainder of the work day I was in a very foul mood and really quite angry with the guiltless spider.
When I arrived home karma had played a cruel joke on me and had delivered the screen protector and flip cover in my absence.
I soon started researching how to replace the digitiser and finally found a disassembly guide on the internet. It seemed somewhat complicated and had a very annoying voice doing the narration, but I ignored these signs of impending doom and pushed on. Some of my conviction that I could do it stemmed from knowing that I was quite nimble (with the exception of stick throwing).
I ordered a digitiser off Ebay and checked my mailbox twice daily for the next two weeks or so. Finally it had arrived.
I had the majority of the tools ready thought I would need, the rest I would improvise. I did not have a metal strip as was mentioned that I would need, but I found an old floppy disk and cut up the metal cover which gave me something that looked remarkably similar to what was in the video.
It took a lot of effort and a lot of pausing, rewinding and replaying the youtube video but I finally got to the stage that I had removed all parts except for the LCD and the broken digitiser.
I put the metal strip into it as demonstrated in the video. The tactile response was poor and I hoped that I had cut what I needed to cut. I spent a good half hour doing this. Then, as I did not a have an oven that I could regulate perfectly, I decided that I would take two new condoms. I washed them and dried them to get rid of the lubricant and put the screen assembly first into one and then into the other. I started the kettle and made sure that my water had exactly 60 degrees. I then dropped the wrapped package into it and let it sit for 10 minutes. I took it out and tried to remove the digitiser to no avail. Back in it went at 65 degrees for 10 minutes. Still nothing.
Then I had the idea that it might be easier to take the digitiser out piece by piece. I took a very small screw driver and took out piece after piece. This must have taken me at least an hour, but I finally got the top layer of it out. When this was done, I had a little more space to play with and I decided that I would try to cut it out from the top. It was looking really quite good and the entire assembly started moving out, but on my final cut, I noticed that I had severed the LCD cable.
After this I continued to try and cut it out, but I realised that I hadn't been as close to getting it out as I had thought. I put it into the oven which was around 70 degrees, just as an experiment. I could still not get the glue to relinquish its hold of the LCD screen.
Grumpily, I took a larger screwdriver and levered the LCD screen out. It bent but didn't crack in the process. Maybe this is what I should have done in the first place? (Not that I would recommend it)
Back on Ebay I went and ordered a new LCD screen.
Today it finally arrived. I attached the new digitiser to the new LCD screen and then started the video yet again to see how to reassemble the phone. Unfortunately it was very hard to do this as the video was in the wrong order. I downloaded the video off youtube and reversed it. Interestingly the voice was much less annoying in reverse.
During the reassembly process I wanted to blow some lint off the screen that had landed on it, along with the lint I blew the box of screws off my desk. After a good ten minutes of searching I had found all but one of the screws. I figured that it had been swallowed forever by the carpet as even my rare earth magnets couldn’t find it, or the underpants gnomes had taken hold of it somehow.
If I had thought disassembling the phone was hard, I was in for a rude awakening. Reassembling it was extremely difficult. After using what felt like a good metre of sticky tape, I finally managed to get everything back together. I figured that the missing screw probably wasn’t doing anything important anyway.
The only problem that I appeared to have was that I hadn’t glued the digitiser back in place and it was constantly in danger of falling out of the phone. I decided that I would the phone into another case that I had bought while waiting for the first one. This was a silicon case and should force the digitiser to stay inside the phone.
First I wanted to test the phone however. I put in an old sim card, my memory card and started it up. My heart nearly skipped a beat when I saw “HTC” appear on the screen. Strangely it stayed there for some time. I sighed loudly and took the battery cover off.
Checking it, I couldn’t see anything that I had done wrong. So I put it all back together and turned it on again. Again the “HTC” appeared and after a while the booting logo followed. The phone simply took a while as it was a new sim card.
When android started up, I tested features and they all seemed to work except for the reception, I just couldn’t get any. I already saw me having to buy a new phone, but then realised that I was being an idiot and that I should put my current sim card into it.
After doing so, everything worked perfectly. I was very happy. Even my plan to keep the digitiser affixed to the phone with the cover worked well.
In Conclusion: It is possible to replace the digitiser (along with the LCD), but it is very difficult.
Nice story
TTIUWP
Damn that spider ;p
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA App
Wow.... That's quite an epic tale. Glad it had a happy ending... Thanks for sharing - hope I never have to come back to this post!
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA App
I hate it when I drop my phone. Once while laying hot asphalt my blackberry landed face down on it for a few minutes before I noticed.
Ahaha 'sausage fingers', great tale and glad you got it sorted ;-)
Sent from my Desire HD on the moon...
Id be in floods of tears.. you poor man haha.
You made me laugh and cry at the same time.
Ive had my nexus s since launch an ive noticed that the bezel around my screen is loose. When i apply pressure on the sides of my phone like squeezin it alittle it creaks an moves some. I first thought it was the battery cover but when i remove it i can see the bezel moving. Anyone else notice this on theres?
I returned a couple different NS for various reason and some had a squeaky bezel and some didn't. None of them were loose enough where there was any significant movement. Sorry to say but it sounds like you have a defect. Call Samsung, I'm sure you're still under warranty. It takes a couple weeks between sending it out and getting it back but at least it will be fixed and hopefully working properly. Good luck.
i can't say it's normal, but i guess it's pretty commom, mine is like yours and other two pieces i have tested are a little more or less equal... the weird thing is some users notice and some don't. my friend's nexus is just like mine and he never noticed until i told him!
I've noticed that the plastic piece at the bottom of the phone (where the USB port and hole for the mic are) creaks a little when I push on it. Nothing I'm fretting over but enough to be noticeable.
I just looked at my friends an his is really bad on the sides. He thinks it might be from taking the battery cover off an on alot. I wish there was some way to tighten it cause its now starting to bug me but not enough to send to samsung. I cant go without a phone for a few weeks
just like i said! =o)... and no way i will send it to samsung!
i guess i will wait whole piece comes out so i'll fix it with superglue! =o)
Introduction:
When a button mechanically clicks, that is the signal to you that you've done your part and you should expect the button to do its part. While I've seen this on several other devices, the Nexus7 2013 apparently has a widespread problem which manifests itself in "having to press the power button a certain way". This is caused by the glue used to assemble the buttons having seeped under the contacts.
Here's the fix.
You will need:
A gituar pick
Rubbing alcohol
A Q-Tip
Superglue
Instructions:
1. Remove the back cover from the device with a gitaur pick.
2. Peel up the tape/laminate covering the power button.
click for larger picture
3. Clean off both contact surfaces using rubbing alcohol.
click for larger picture
4. Reassemble the switch by replacing the tape
5. Using just a dab of glue on the edge of the button assembly, secure the button tape/lamination back into place.
6. Reassemble the device.
Conclusion:
And that's all there is to it. You may decide to skip the superglue during reassembly, but its a good idea to use it generally as removing the tape weakens the hold of the manufacturer's adhesive.
Make no mistakes, this is a manufacturing defect and you should have the ability to return the device to get a new one if you experience this problem. But, after this procedure, the power button should work easily, every time.
I was wondering if I was the only one!
So what else can we do while we are in there?
silentheero said:
I was wondering if I was the only one!
So what else can we do while we are in there?
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Xdatv is coming up on Wednesday and I will add that into here..
Glad to see the fix is easy. Not surprised to see the issue since Asus has just been making crap in terms of quality for a while now. Nexus 7 was better then I thought not having the crap asus quality but the new one has Asus all over it. Used Asus stuff for years and after the crap G75 laptop I had I will never get anything made by Asus. Sucks I wanted a new nexus 7 guess I'll wait till Samsung or lg or Motorola makes the third version.
Asus has just dropped off a cliff the past few years. They dident even go downhill they went from great to utter budget crap even the ROG line. Waiting to see the last great Asus products go down the same way. The Rog mobos. I was really hoping Google would push some weight saying they have to do some QC on the nexus 7.
Anyways great guide. But I'll add that on electronics you want 90%+ alch. Get the colorless with no scents added. Those leave traces behind. Should not matter on buttons like this but if anyone was wondering if they could use the red or green alch. I advise you to get the highest % with no colors or sents added. At my work for cleaning pcb's we use 98% but anything over 85% is great.
This is great to find out and I really want to do this as mine suffers from this problem quite badly but I'm hoping for just a bit more detail (and that it might be helpful for others as well).
Guitar picks come in all kinds of gauges. What did you use? (Or can you at least tell us if it was a heavy, med, or light by what manufacturer?)
Are the plastic pegs (or whatever is) holding the back on very fragile? And chance of a pic of the inside of the back so we can see where they are placed?
Thanks.
mjoa68 said:
This is great to find out and I really want to do this as mine suffers from this problem quite badly but I'm hoping for just a bit more detail (and that it might be helpful for others as well).
Guitar picks come in all kinds of gauges. What did you use? (Or can you at least tell us if it was a heavy, med, or light by what manufacturer?)
Are the plastic pegs (or whatever is) holding the back on very fragile? And chance of a pic of the inside of the back so we can see where they are placed?
Thanks.
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Medium is probly best. I've got a teardown video coming up on Monday.
AdamOutler said:
Medium is probly best. I've got a teardown video coming up on Monday.
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Thanks. Good to know there is a video coming. I got impatient and just went ahead anyway.
One thing I learned is to not start by the buttons if you can (even though the case is a bit weaker and more flexible there) because you can't really work your way around the bottom due to the usb port, and if you attempt to work your way around the top corner that has the camera in it you may very well crack the case there like I did. Didn't notice until I had it back on but there is a hair line crack running from the corner to the hole that the camera looks through. It's only noticeable if you really look for it and everything is held together just fine but thought I'd mention it in case it helps anyone else avoid the same mistake. I'd say that corner will be prone to that due to the camera hole being so close to corner edge that you are trying to pry off.
Once I finished I tried again with my brother's N7 but this time started opening from the long edge opposite the buttons and worked my way around the corner to the top edge. This allowed me to essentially just pull the case off the other top corner by the camera (with the help of a bit of careful prodding with the guitar pic) and then, once I'd freed the case from the top and sides, pull it downwards away from the USB port. (Probably obvious to most but I didn't really realize until I'd done the first one that the USB port anchors the case in place so the bottom edge must come off last, and be put back on first.)
Another thing to be aware of is that there is a very small black rubber grommet sitting over the microphone port (rectangular with a round hole in the middle). It fell off when I opened the first case but I just made sure to seat it properly before putting the case back on. It didn't move when I did the second case since I was a little less rough that time around but something to be aware of and look out for. It's pretty teeny and would be easy to lose without even noticing.
Happy to report that this really did the trick in both cases. Even though I couldn't see any glue on the contacts before cleaning, both units now wake/sleep with every click, whereas before it only worked 70-80% of the time.
I'm sure it will be worth waiting for the video Adam is planning but just thought I'd share in case anyone is as impatient as me.
mjoa68 said:
Thanks. Good to know there is a video coming. I got impatient and just went ahead anyway.
One thing I learned is to not start by the buttons if you can (even though the case is a bit weaker and more flexible there) because you can't really work your way around the bottom due to the usb port, and if you attempt to work your way around the top corner that has the camera in it you may very well crack the case there like I did. Didn't notice until I had it back on but there is a hair line crack running from the corner to the hole that the camera looks through. It's only noticeable if you really look for it and everything is held together just fine but thought I'd mention it in case it helps anyone else avoid the same mistake. I'd say that corner will be prone to that due to the camera hole being so close to corner edge that you are trying to pry off.
Once I finished I tried again with my brother's N7 but this time started opening from the long edge opposite the buttons and worked my way around the corner to the top edge. This allowed me to essentially just pull the case off the other top corner by the camera (with the help of a bit of careful prodding with the guitar pic) and then, once I'd freed the case from the top and sides, pull it downwards away from the USB port. (Probably obvious to most but I didn't really realize until I'd done the first one that the USB port anchors the case in place so the bottom edge must come off last, and be put back on first.)
Another thing to be aware of is that there is a very small black rubber grommet sitting over the microphone port (rectangular with a round hole in the middle). It fell off when I opened the first case but I just made sure to seat it properly before putting the case back on. It didn't move when I did the second case since I was a little less rough that time around but something to be aware of and look out for. It's pretty teeny and would be easy to lose without even noticing.
Happy to report that this really did the trick in both cases. Even though I couldn't see any glue on the contacts before cleaning, both units now wake/sleep with every click, whereas before it only worked 70-80% of the time.
I'm sure it will be worth waiting for the video Adam is planning but just thought I'd share in case anyone is as impatient as me.
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Awesome instructions! I couldn't have stated it better. It really is a tight case though. I think starting near the buttons is fine but I worked around the top corner.
AdamOutler said:
Awesome instructions! I couldn't have stated it better. It really is a tight case though. I think starting near the buttons is fine but I worked around the top corner.
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Click to collapse
Yes, it is definitely much easier to get into the case starting near the buttons as there's more flex to it there. I suppose a better way to say it might be that if you can get started on the opposite side you will avoid possibly cracking it near the camera like I did. But you'd probably be fine starting near the buttons as long as you're very careful (and not as clumsy or impatient as I was ) working around that first corner.
I aint never had to open up anything like this and will have to to replace my screen. So glad I found this thread first and will be sure to check out the unboxing video before I do. and Yes isopropyl is a much better cleaner than other alcohol based solutions. Gonna do them buttons while Im in there.
I would not be nearly as daring to attempt any of this without the guidance from seasoned members. Thank you so much!!
Thank you so much! the power and volume buttons worked again flawlessly!
But I damaged my N7 13's thin black metal like bezels around the screen when I'm trying to open it, that stuff is really fragile :/
i did this, but i also placed on the power button contact a small piece of 'thickener'... in my case it came from a double sided tape. the sticky part contact on the power button contact, and the other side which has the cover (of the double sided tape), i didn't remove that cover. effectively, a small 'thickener'. then close back the device. fixed!
Adam, a quick question on this power/volume button thread. I got my Nexus 7 2013 version very briefly wet - I mean for a micro second. It does charge, but it won't power up. I can get it into bootloader and the volume buttons work, however, the power button does not. Is there a good way to test the power button using a multimeter or, should I just go ahead and replace the power button/volume button strip completely and hope that does the trick?
Thanks!
Chris
Chris: wet Nexus 7 bootloader only with volume buttons
Hi Chris,
My nan also got her tablet wet and can only access the bottloader with the volume buttons. Did you find a solution to make the power button work in the end? I've got a very useless paper weight sat around :/
Mike
I lost the rubber mic grommet replacing a cracked screen even knowing it was there. After 20 plus years coding with shot eyes, I paid my 2 nephews to come over and crawl around to find it (wife's phone - nuff said). Still took over an hour to find. So I put a small amount of rubber adhesive around the edges to make it fit snug. I've had it apart 4 times since and it stays put.
Sent from Ponius using XDA-Developers Legacy app
So, I took the plunge after watching several videos on "how to apply a tempered glass screen protector using Loca glue", and tried it myself. I have about 7 small bubbles, but I think I can live with them?? (we'll find out).
I only used about 1.5cc, but that was way too much and it oozed out. I thought I wiped it off of everything before I cured it (with a UV light).....Shortly afterwards, I received a call and couldn't hear anything out of my earpiece? I figured I got glue down in it, so I used alcohol, a toothpick, a Q-tip and a can of air... I eventually got the sound louder, but it's still muffled and distorted. I even tried a sewing needle and poked it in all the holes, but it's too big to go in the fine holes (I pushed too hard on one, and now have a bigger hole in the earpiece - may have just killed my water protection?).
Is there anything else I can do? I'm literally sick to my stomach now.......I've only had this phone 5 weeks and already messed it up
Hopefully someone had some advice on how to fix it/get the glue out of the earpiece?
UPDATE:
Fixed, the best I can do.....
I work in a medical office, with medical supplies. I took a very small needle and poked it through every hole in the grill and it now seems about 99% better. It still doesn't sound as good as before, but that could also be a placebo effect too (because I'm upset with myself)?
I did find out the grill is a very soft metal (aluminium?)... I noticed that I dented/deformed the grill slightly, last night, while trying to clean it (as well as poked a hole in it/busted out two holes into one hole).
As stated above, I'm not sure now how water proof my phone is now??
Oh well, I know now:
1) To put tape over the speaker grill next time (maybe the buttons too?).
2) Use a smaller amount of Loca glue
3) Put the glue on as a fat strip, right in the center, instead of a 4 thinner strips that crossed over each other a few times (this is why I have bubbles)
4) Buy a better screen protector, this one isn't full coverage.
Having the same problem. What gauge needle did you use? Any chance you could look at the packaging at work and let us know?
CWayne121 said:
Having the same problem. What gauge needle did you use? Any chance you could look at the packaging at work and let us know?
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Well.... I actually used the taper needle on the end of a disposable 5/0 suture. The pointed tip was sharp enough to go in the hole, but the shaft was too wide to go any further.
I was using a 29g (insulin syringe) needle at first, and that worked as well, but I bent it too many times and switched to the more sturdy suture needle.
I was also experienced the same issue, while applying the uv screen protector from a localised store, I'm telling them that please ensure may earpiece will damage, they told nothing will happen, after completion of installation process, uv light also used, before leaving out I thought I would like to call, unfortunately my earpiece not working, I mean very less sound.i thought I would have go to OnePlus service center for repairing. however after I went back to home, I just applied some alcohol based sanitizer, and I thoroughly used hard toothbrush and clean it, with in 10 minutes of duration, everything got cleaned. Now it it is working properly .