So. That's all my fault but I needed to change my digitizer but I accidentally broke the plastic wire which goes from controler to main board (It looks like black plastic paper). Can I repair that volume control because it might be useful for hard reset?
Don't judge me too hard
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I tried to replace my vogue after the screen cracked and power button broke, but Sprint/Asurion want $100 to replace it. Turns out it was only the digitizer that cracked so I'm trying to fix the power button myself, then simply replace the digitizer for ~$10.
My problem is that the power button completely broke off from the mainboard. I tried to solder it back on without a result, and I'm wondering if I'm missing a step. The board has 5 separate solder points, but it looks like only 3 are actually making a connection to the button (so I soldered only those). From the looks of the soft reset button, it seems that the two other solder points don't actually bridge any connections, but are touching the underside of the button where it's not metallic.
Obviously I'm missing something here, anyone have a clue?
hate to say it but id just pay the $100 for a refurbish or id look on craigslist or ebay for a replacement.
All you need to do is solder those three solder points. make sure you are using flux so it flows well and keep it straight. I had an issue after I put the case back on and the button on the case not lining up with the switch. Make sure you try to power the phone on before you put the case back on. I would leave the digitizer plugged in just in case.
Using the simple diagram below, soldering the 1-2-4 points didn't make it work. I was able to mimic the button by bridging the 1or2or4 with the 3or5.
1___2
3_4_5
Not sure what else I can do at this point beyond putting in a small momentary button that makes one of these connections, it will make the device look incredibly ghetto though
it is possible when it broke off it took one of the solder pads with it, after you take the button off see if all the connection points are still silverish in color if any are tan unfortunately you will have to go through asurion, there is no way i know of restoring them after that point
So i bought a used HD2 so i could get rid of my Aria and do a dual boot
The digitizer was bad so i bought that as well as a new screen, replacing it the main flex ribbon that connects to volume port broke which is unrepairable and the pcb where the flex connects to the socket lid broke half way when removing the tape so dang fragile.
But the ribbon still goes in and it still closes, so the main issue is the flex ribbon with the broken volume button.
So my tech is an idiot. But i really want to use the HD2. Is there somebody that has those parts and can fix it?
I already spent $65 on the digi and screen so i feel
Yes go onto ebay and look for hd2 side volume key pcb.
It's a lengthy repair but nothing too difficult if you like electronics.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OEM-HTC...ultDomain_0&hash=item1c21fcc331#ht_1766wt_964
found it, should have some fun now
Hi . I changed my tmobile hd2's screen .
After change volume keys not working. So I can't update any rom.
Because I can't enter recovery.
How can I upgrade any rom without volume keys.
Can "CWM recovery touch" solve my problem.
Can I upgrade any rom with cwm touch recovery without volume keys
im not really sure about how to initally get into the recovery withour the volume keys, but if you can some how, a touch CMW recovery will work
it has directional keys on the bottom of the screen for you to navigate around
just flash it like you wud a normal recovery with what ever set-up size you need!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1419733
On the non touch cwm (some of them anyway) you can use home and menu hard keys to scroll as well as volume.
But as already mentioned,you can't get into recovery so having touch or alternate keys won't help.
matcoder said:
Hi . I changed my tmobile hd2's screen .
After change volume keys not working. So I can't update any rom.
Because I can't enter recovery.
How can I upgrade any rom without volume keys.
Can "CWM recovery touch" solve my problem.
Can I upgrade any rom with cwm touch recovery without volume keys
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
DO NOT FLASH ANYTHING WITH DAMAGED VOLUME KEYS!!
I flashed a splash screen on mine after damaging ribbon to volume keys and now I have a main board that will NOT recognize these keys even after replacing the broken part, I cant say yours will do this, but mine did soo...
I have replaced two screens on mine, the ribbon to the volume rocker is very delicate i tore two of them on my first screen replacement ( i buy bricked HD2s' for screens). I have had my HD2 now almost two years and no parts are original. Just recently i FINALLY bought one with a busted out screen so i could replace just the main ribbon assembly and a main board that can use volume keys.
This main ribbon sits under your regulatory label ( with the FCC shiz and serial #'s) its integral with your GPS radio, camera assembly, and of course volume rocker keys.
This can be replaced with only moderate difficulty, there are videos even from HTC that explains how to disassemble/reassemble everything safely and in order.
Disassemble
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cL-jnUKufC4
Reassemble
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=channel&list=UL
I found those after I ripped not one but two volume key ribbons....
To do this you need to pay attention to how the coaxial cables for bluetooth(white) and GPS(black thin) sit, to avoid a few hours of trial and error. getting everything to fit again.
First disconnect the coaxial from blutooth be gentle now, its the white cable at the left of my first image, that phone is nowhere near assembled remember how your cable was positioned. remove and unplug the speaker as well as the vibrator as you move the white cable out of the way, stop pulling it when you hit the screw hole at the top right corner of regulatory label.
Just above where the screw hole is you should see another plug like the blutooth coaxial only black disconnect that and leave it there. try to leave the thicker black cable that leads to camera connected, its ok if it comes out but its a pain to get connected again.
When the top right of your phone looks like my second pic your ready to remove the screw keeping the gps in place thats the top right screw, silver.
disconnect the camera cable from the main board its right next to the battery terminals, the only plug there and hard to miss behind where your simcard goes.
This is important..... right behind the volume keys is the groove thats keeping those coaxial and camera cables in place, under those is the ribbon leading to volume rocker. taking note of how they fit remove these cables from the groove 4th pic
Sorry about the detail cameras are less than perfect on ICS builds and im a terrible photographer on top of that. you must understand that there is a black tape holding those wires together near the mother board, thats right where the volume ribbon is so be careful when you get to that. i just cut/tear the tape holding wires in place, also one of the coaxial cables plugs under the main board right there as well be careful not to disconnect that, you wont hurt anything but its a pain to get it back.
after cables are free from groove you can remove volume rocker. rocker board is held with adhesive just like the camera up top. using fingernail pry the board away from its housing, when its loose from the housing its glued to just let it sit loose, be gentle while getting that loose.
now for the gps/camera, you can fit a small flat head screwdriver between edges of gps board and the plastic of the phone casing, the gps board has clip holding left side so go from the right or the same side that screw was in.
the camera is only adhered so you can put pressure to wherever you feel comfortable its actually pretty solid i have done it a few times and never harmed it.
peel it like you would a sticker down to the main board where it connects under the sdcard then pull it straight back. the last image is what the assembly looks like in tact so have an idea of where not to put too much stress when peeling it.
again DONT FLASH ANYTHING IF YOU RIPPED RIBBON TO VOLUME ROCKER!! This may wreck your main board as it did mine and you'll be stuck on sd builds until you find another main board....
HD2's with busted screens go for about $60-80 off ebay shipped. send me message if you have any q's, also that ribbon/camera/gps assembly in last picture is tested by me and fully functional, also much cheaper than a busted screen HD2 ........
Hi mrbox23,
I believe I have flashed my HTC HD2 (or at least tried) and now I can't get past the HTC splash screen and can't initiate the bootloader!
Hi opened the HTC HD2 and found that the ribbon/flex to volume rocker is cutted!
Now, according to your post it's probable that if I replace the whole main flex I won't be able to initiate bootloadr because the mainboard won't recognise the volume buttons?
Another question is: you said "This may wreck your main board as it did mine and you'll be stuck on sd builds until you find another main board...." this means that I can still use my HTC HD 2 using the sd memory card only with some build? If so can you tell me, or at least, point out some post where to do it? Because in every post that I saw it is necessary to be able to initiate the bootloader!
I would be very gratefull if you could help me on this.
Best regards,
calcaneo
Hi guys,
I just disassembled my HD2 to replace my broken digitizer and touchscreen.
But now i'm stuck with a problem.
What shall I use to glue both items together again?
And the keyboard makes some issues.
I tried to place both parts over eachother to see if they fit but I can't press the keys after it.
Seems like they are stuck.
That's why I didn't want to use superglue because after assembling it I wouldn't be able to change anything.
Maybe pictures tell more than words.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=player_embedded
hope that helps you
thanks wasn't the information I was looking for but nevermind
I assembled the device now .. but the next problem occured ..
the hd2 is loading without problems (led shows it) but when I try to power it on it's completely dead. nothing happends
with my old touchscreen it was at least possible to power it on.
my question is:
could the new soldered touchscreen + digitizer be broken? or did I break something during disassembly and assembly?
To be honest I didn't see any mistakes I made.
It's not my first time repairing stuff like that because I used to repair notebooks as a hobby.
Still i'm unsure what the heck is going on with my phone atm.
did you check if the flex cable from display is in the port, there is an white stripe that shows how far it must in the port. Did the phone vibrate when you pressed power button?
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
12dollar said:
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
bib*oops said:
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
12dollar said:
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear that!
Definitely you should replace your keypad flex!
Did you fix the problem with the hardware keys
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
maznevh said:
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Hard to get hardware buttons clickable
Mister B said:
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
maznevh said:
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do not rule out the LCD/Digitizer assembly as the china combos are prone to not the best accuracy of assembly as sounds like maybe LCD is mounted just a fraction too low on the digitizer perhaps.
Button board should be fixed via 3M style tape & most replacement boards come with tape ready for fitting.
worth making effort with button board to centre chassis to mount securely then mounting lcd to chassis without tape for a trial assembly & try and check for possible issues such as bent chassis or old tape not removed sufficiently or new assembly alignment not the best.
I would also recommend using original plastic button strip as the copy ones are not always good & have had experience with them before.
I have a G530, the Tmobile version, though fully unlocked, rooted, etc. I had cracked the digitizer and while waiting for a new one I dropped it again and the LCD popped out with the digitizer, disconnecting itself and would come back on after that. I got a new LCD and attached it to the board (disassembled) and all worked. I mounted the board back in the case and reattached everything but then only the backlight would turn on during initial boot. The connection seemed loose and after 2-3 reconnects I got my display to work, but while attaching the digitzer, the glass at the very top, just before the lcd starts broke... So I got ANOTHER lcd and digitizer (They're cheap) This LCD only gives the backlight at initial power on, with no display response, but no matter what I do, I can't get it to kick on like the last one.
I'm trying to get an idea if it is the new LCD, or if my connector on the board is broken, It looks like maybe a bit of plastic at the top broke off.. and is making the connector a bit loose. Since I get a backlight, anyone have any experience as to which is more likely broken? I'm not sure if power from the connector goes straight to the backlight, or if it goes to the LCD first, and if I would get a backlight with a bad LCD. These are cheap $25 LCD & Digitizer bundles from Amazon, like 'Mencia' brand so good chance I could have gotten a new one that is dead.
I'll try to get another up close shot of the connector, this magnifying app didn't focus in as well and you cant see the individual connectors as well, but they are fine, its the very top part of the connector looks a bit smaller. The bottom part has a piece of metal sandwiched between the plastic, but the top doesn't have a bit of plastic after the metal tab, of course, it could be absolutely nothing :s