Database Users

physical problem ... audio cuttoff with slider...

I dont know if anyone opend their wizard up.... mine is the tmobile mda..
the earpeice does not work when the slider is closed... or halfway...
the keyboard has to be slid completly open for any sound to be heard...
i know its a loose connection somewhere in the slide.... anyone know how to fix it?...
just started happening a few hours ago.

and now neither works... only works in speakerphone... wth is going on

It sounds as if your rigid flex cable is kicking it,
However your phone speaker could just be loose. It is affixed to the front plate and not the Rigid flex board.
I would try to troubleshoot with a dissassembly.
if the main ribbon cable is torn you should replace the rigid flex board. If your speaker is loose or broken You can look on XDA to see if someone is selling one.

ok.. i just read the service manual on how to dissassemble the wizard...
i just want to get a few things straight...
the rigid flex board is the board for the keyboard right?...
ribbon cable is that big thick silver ribbon right?...
if said cable is torn... i have to replace the entire rigid flex board? or can i just replace the ribbon cable instead?
if the speaker is loose... all i would have to do is tighten it... if it is broken .. all i have to do is replace it right?...
------
im sure the speaker isnt broken.... because it was working when the slider was slid open... and not working when it was closed.

bigjoe87865 said:
ok.. i just read the service manual on how to dissassemble the wizard...
i just want to get a few things straight...
the rigid flex board is the board for the keyboard right?...
ribbon cable is that big thick silver ribbon right?...
if said cable is torn... i have to replace the entire rigid flex board? or can i just replace the ribbon cable instead?
if the speaker is loose... all i would have to do is tighten it... if it is broken .. all i have to do is replace it right?...
------
im sure the speaker isnt broken.... because it was working when the slider was slid open... and not working when it was closed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi there bigjoe,
where did you find the service manual for the Wizard? I have audio problems myself (the mic and speaker just died, i can´t hear anything and the caller can´t hear anything, but the damn thing rings nonetheless!) and my warranty is up. So I would like to take a peek inside!

bigjoe87865 said:
ok.. i just read the service manual on how to dissassemble the wizard...
i just want to get a few things straight...
the rigid flex board is the board for the keyboard right?...
ribbon cable is that big thick silver ribbon right?...
if said cable is torn... i have to replace the entire rigid flex board? or can i just replace the ribbon cable instead?
if the speaker is loose... all i would have to do is tighten it... if it is broken .. all i have to do is replace it right?...
------
im sure the speaker isnt broken.... because it was working when the slider was slid open... and not working when it was closed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, Here are the answers in order.
The rigid flex board is the board you see in the top portion of the wizard (where the screen and buttons are housed.)
The master ribbon cable is the big thick silver one yes.
I would replace the board it could just as well cause problems.(it's not too expensive)
If it is loose re-seat it in it's place. If broken replace it.
---to epatnor
Have your first tried hard reset?
It sound as if your master cable is or rigid flex board going, but it could simply be your speaker and mic.
The service manual is here:http://www.megaupload.com/?d=BEG0XKM8
Hope this helps you.
-M

[Q] Broke ribbon for keypad

So tonight I was replacing a broken digitizer for my HD2, it was anything but easy, but it wasn't as bad as I was expecting. Anyways, in the middle of reassembling, I hit the point where I need to reconnect the keypad. I was fighting with it for a good 10 minutes trying to get it connected. I grabbed a small flathead screwdriver to push the ribbon while my other hand guided the ribbon into the connector. In the process I broke the ribbon cable.
Of course, for the good of the phone, I've ordered up a new keypad. My question is, is there anything I can do in the interim? Can one say, line up the contacts on the ribbon and electrical tape it together? Or anything else?

Man just wait for the replacement keypad. Cause as thin and delicate as the ribbons are you will probably do more damage than good to the ribbon. I mean even if you got the ribbon aligned and tapped bake together. One you probably will not get a good connection between the two pieces of ribbon, and two the little copper strips are so thin you will probably cause micro cracks in them while you are fiddling with the two half's of the ribbon.

HTC HD2 assembly problem

Hi guys,
I just disassembled my HD2 to replace my broken digitizer and touchscreen.
But now i'm stuck with a problem.
What shall I use to glue both items together again?
And the keyboard makes some issues.
I tried to place both parts over eachother to see if they fit but I can't press the keys after it.
Seems like they are stuck.
That's why I didn't want to use superglue because after assembling it I wouldn't be able to change anything.
Maybe pictures tell more than words.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=player_embedded
hope that helps you

thanks wasn't the information I was looking for but nevermind
I assembled the device now .. but the next problem occured ..
the hd2 is loading without problems (led shows it) but when I try to power it on it's completely dead. nothing happends
with my old touchscreen it was at least possible to power it on.
my question is:
could the new soldered touchscreen + digitizer be broken? or did I break something during disassembly and assembly?
To be honest I didn't see any mistakes I made.
It's not my first time repairing stuff like that because I used to repair notebooks as a hobby.
Still i'm unsure what the heck is going on with my phone atm.

did you check if the flex cable from display is in the port, there is an white stripe that shows how far it must in the port. Did the phone vibrate when you pressed power button?

I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem

12dollar said:
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!

bib*oops said:
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)

12dollar said:
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear that!
Definitely you should replace your keypad flex!

Did you fix the problem with the hardware keys
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards

maznevh said:
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.

Hard to get hardware buttons clickable
Mister B said:
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks

maznevh said:
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do not rule out the LCD/Digitizer assembly as the china combos are prone to not the best accuracy of assembly as sounds like maybe LCD is mounted just a fraction too low on the digitizer perhaps.
Button board should be fixed via 3M style tape & most replacement boards come with tape ready for fitting.
worth making effort with button board to centre chassis to mount securely then mounting lcd to chassis without tape for a trial assembly & try and check for possible issues such as bent chassis or old tape not removed sufficiently or new assembly alignment not the best.
I would also recommend using original plastic button strip as the copy ones are not always good & have had experience with them before.

HD2 screen and input jack problems.

Hello,
Where can I find a good replacement for HD2 digitizer?
I have Windows Phone 7.8 on it (I had the same problem on Android) and sometimes when I am using it, the digitizer registers my touches wrong.
Seems to be the left side is most affected by this - Like when I press e, it presses q also, or w then q too. Also happens with s (a) and symbols. Cannot even pinch to zoom.
This has rendered my HD2 a unpractical phone. It started randomly last summer.
Should I change the digitizer in this case or is there something I can try?
Also, my input jack is messed up - when I have a headphone connected to it and the plug shakes in the slightest - The phone things I want to pause the song or play it. Also activates the voice search which is a freaking PAIN.
Can anyone please help me and tell me what I should do about these issues?

Digitizer & other parts such as assembly tape can be found on eBay.
Dosome homework on digitizers & stripdown guide to save yourself from common problems/mistakes.
Audio plug maybe harder issue to rectify, it can be replaced but requires a good solderer to do good job. You may improve things by cleaning socket & cable plug & trying to improve contact spring arms tension position in socket with a pin or similar.

Mister B said:
Digitizer & other parts such as assembly tape can be found on eBay.
Dosome homework on digitizers & stripdown guide to save yourself from common problems/mistakes.
Audio plug maybe harder issue to rectify, it can be replaced but requires a good solderer to do good job. You may improve things by cleaning socket & cable plug & trying to improve contact spring arms tension position in socket with a pin or similar.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But does this issue seem related to digitizer being faulty or just a cable a bit damaged? Sometimes the issue appears and sometimes it doesn't.

Ribbon on digitizer is all one piece & any permanent repair usually is only really achieved by replacement of digitizer.
I have had similar issues of screen presses activating other area on screen & dead zones on digitizer error & also the more common no touch issue, all required digitizer to fix .

Anyone know where to find a replacement jack in the USA??
Sent from my HTC One X using xda app-developers app

Need Help-Backlight only after new LCD Screen on G530

I have a G530, the Tmobile version, though fully unlocked, rooted, etc. I had cracked the digitizer and while waiting for a new one I dropped it again and the LCD popped out with the digitizer, disconnecting itself and would come back on after that. I got a new LCD and attached it to the board (disassembled) and all worked. I mounted the board back in the case and reattached everything but then only the backlight would turn on during initial boot. The connection seemed loose and after 2-3 reconnects I got my display to work, but while attaching the digitzer, the glass at the very top, just before the lcd starts broke... So I got ANOTHER lcd and digitizer (They're cheap) This LCD only gives the backlight at initial power on, with no display response, but no matter what I do, I can't get it to kick on like the last one.
I'm trying to get an idea if it is the new LCD, or if my connector on the board is broken, It looks like maybe a bit of plastic at the top broke off.. and is making the connector a bit loose. Since I get a backlight, anyone have any experience as to which is more likely broken? I'm not sure if power from the connector goes straight to the backlight, or if it goes to the LCD first, and if I would get a backlight with a bad LCD. These are cheap $25 LCD & Digitizer bundles from Amazon, like 'Mencia' brand so good chance I could have gotten a new one that is dead.
I'll try to get another up close shot of the connector, this magnifying app didn't focus in as well and you cant see the individual connectors as well, but they are fine, its the very top part of the connector looks a bit smaller. The bottom part has a piece of metal sandwiched between the plastic, but the top doesn't have a bit of plastic after the metal tab, of course, it could be absolutely nothing :s