Hi all,
...since I could not find a program to achieve this, I had to write one myself. Well, it is not a program, but just a MortScript to do the job of data collection while the battery is discharged.
As MortScript runs on all WM platforms from WM2k3 onwards and on both: Smartphone (standard) and PocketPC (professional), you can use this concept for all devices that MortScript runs on.
You have to take care yourself that the battery is full before you start and that the discharge is constant over time. Both is easy however
The job to discharge your battery while measured is done by the display lit to the maximum brightness and all other big current drains should be off to get comparable data. The script runs in the background and whenever the Battery% goes down is writes to a file remembering the timestamp for this.
For my devices the time to drain the batteries from full to zero was 1-16 hours, depending on how much the fully lit display draws off the battery and capacity and health of the battery.
Evaluation is done off-line with a spreadsheet program.
Usage:
install MortScript
unzip the attached file to your PC
put the battery-rundown.mscr file to the folder \My Documents\Battery or \Storage\My Documents\Battery for WM2K3 on your device
put the battery-rundown.lnk (*-wm2k3.* for WM2k3) file on your device to the \windows\startup folder. This makes sure that the script starts as soon as your device starts. It will not do any harm there and can even stay there for a longer time if you want to learn about your battery charge cycles. You can also copy it to any other place you like in the startmenu for easy access.
make sure all radio access is off (GSM/UMTS, BT, WLAN)
adjust the display and backlight on battery to stay on forever as well as backlight brightness for battery use to maximum
switch off the device
charge it until the battery is full (green light). Optionally leave it like this for another 1-3 hours to get the trickle charge squeeze the last electrons to the battery. Impact of this should not be more than 10% capacity - skip it if you are impatient.
switch on, the script starts automatically and measurement has created a file where the mortscript resides. It will continue to write to this file until the battery goes to 0% and device switches off.
disconnect from the charger (but you did this already, or?)
You can check from time to time the content of the log-file to see the progress if you like.
leave the device alone until is is off - this will take several hours, best is to do this over night. Put it at a place where the battery warning is not disturbing you at night.
after the device is off due to the empty battery, reconnect the charger and switch on after a few seconds of recovery
now you can look at the log-file and examine or post-process it in a spreadsheet program - the timestamp should tell you which file it was.
The resulting file "bd_<date-time-started>.csv can be loaded to a spreadsheet and evaluated, so you can compare your own batteries to see which is the best.
Even better, for the same device type the standardized method of measurement, where the current drain by the fully lit display should be reasonably identical for all devices, makes it possible to share battery quality data for 3rd party suppliers. A reasonable point of comparison for one device type is the time it takes until the battery is drained down to 10% - despite the discharge is not at all linear (usually).
I did all this and supply you all my data as an example to depict what you can do yourself now.
I hope you find the script useful.
For device specific discussions, please open a thread in the relevant device forum - pointing to this thread for the method - and not here. This thread is only to discuss the scripts or the method of measurement.
Note:
Please also read post 2 (device specific links) and post 3 (general hints on batteries) of this thread. I will update them from time to time when new info is available.
20100225 added:
If you want to find out how much drain happens to your battery in the test-setup, you can ask the battery driver, e.g. by using HomeScreen++ or BattClock. Mind that this data is not immediately reliable, especially when you change conditions (e.g. dim the light) the change is often reflected only minutes later. The true value can only be found by measuring the drain with an Ampere-meter. This is harder than you may think as the impedance of the meter must be very low to get the device started up properly.
20100313 added:
More programs to read the power drain:
free: acbpowermeter
cost: acbtaskman (can also export data) same provider as above.
Update to the script and few more data inserted to the spreadsheet:
The script now logs several items from the registry, including the Data for CurrentDrain and BatteryTemperature that BattClock writes if it is configured to show them in display.
Started to measure standby drain on all my spare devices - mileage varies. This is also not a real life measurement as the devices have everything shut off (light, radio etc..) and the only process that keeps them busy is the script waking up each 5 minutes. If you like you can change the value for MaxSleepTime in the script to much higher values to decrease the impact of drain to the measurement. I am not sure how this will behave on WM Professional with its complicated power model (standby mode) but on smartphone it runs very well. First data are available in the spreadsheet. It would be best of course to be notified by the system if the battery percentage changes instead of polling for it, but MortScript does not supply a method to achieve this.
20101123 added:
The script reads from data that the BattClock program writes to the registry if you configure it to do so. Further changes are:
Also BatteryVoltage is read from BattClock Data
Added log of status even if % has not changed if MaxLogWait has passed and if Battery % is below a given limit of LogForcePercent. This is needed as the last % (e.g. from 1 to 0) may take a long time (seen as 1h on an Asus P565) and the 0% will not be written because the device just switches off when 0% is reached. There is no chance for the script to write the last data to file in such case.
added a delta-% column to easily detect non linear decrements
The full change history is included in the script:
Code:
# Date ID comments
# 20101123 tobbbie changed script to match to a TAB alignment of 8 characters
# 20101123 tobbbie altered the logic for LogForcePercent and set default to 0 to not log anything by default.
# 20101010 tobbbie Added log of status even if % has not changed if MaxLogWait has passed and if Battery % is
# below a given limit of LogForcePercent. This is needed as the last % (e.g. from 1 to 0) may
# take a long time (seen as 1h on an Asus P565) and the 0% will not be written because the
# device just switches off when 0% is reached. There is no chance for the script to write the
# last data to file in such case.
# added a delta-% column to easily detect non linear decrements
# 20100425 tobbbie added Registry Read for BattClock BatteryVoltage, rearranged sequence of items
# 20100313 tobbbie added evaluation of \HKLM\System\State\Battery "main" to logging
# 20100313 tobbbie added identification of device via HKLM\Ident and IMEI in headerline
# 20100312 tobbbie made dword registry data to be logged as "0" if no data retrieved
# 20100302 tobbbie added registry read for data created by BattClock
# 20100205 tobbbie added self-adjusting sleeptime (InitSleepTime to MaxSleepTime in ms)
# 20100201 tobbbie initial version
# 20100128 tobbbie draft versions, proof of concept
Device Specific threads are available for:
Vox (tobbbie)
Tornado (tobbbie)
Hurricane (tobbbie)
Typhoon/Amadeus (tobbbie)
LG KS20 (tobbbie)
Rhodium/Touch Pro 2 (mccune)
...I will add more here if someone else starts other device specific threads, please PM me for this.
A lot of background information can be found at the "Battery University": http://www.batteryuniversity.com/index.htm
A specially interesting part is the one about charging: http://www.batteryuniversity.com/partone-12.htm
I have seen a strange charge curves on my Hurricane device - it goes to 68% and jumps to 100% suddenly. This device has a very bad discharge curve (% accuracy) anyway - so the charge fits to that as well. I am using the T-Mobile Germany SDA 2 standard firmware of the device - and since it is in my "museum" I will not put more effort in getting it tracked down.
At least I can confirm that the discharge for the same battery in the same device is nearly identical (I did this for the worst performing battery). I will upload some new result Excel soon.
To be on the safe side that your battery is properly charged, leave the battery charging for at least 4 hours. This should make sure that "step 2" of the charge (where the charge current goes down until charge cut-off) is sufficiently executed. In how much the "green LED" signal is linked to charge-cut-off is device dependent - it may even be different if you charge via the bootloader (device is completely "off") or with the battery driver controling the job.
This is really an amazing tool. Thanks
Ooops, this thread was lifted to the front-page news (I checked there to see the new design), so I hope to see some new device threads starting up and some more comparable data on "my" devices.
The echo was quite low (as of now: null) on these threads, so I suspect that people are happy with their batteries and have no need to know (or report) the truth.
Will post this in the Rhodium section as well. Great idea!
Don't give up on projects like these. It looks like XDA has a lot of members compared to a few years back, but the group of tech geeks (this is actually meant positive) remain about the same.
Thanks. Works on HD with Topix rom.
Please get back to this thread or PM me if you have reports of the test running on other devices. I'd prefer if you can deliver data along with your reports - of course.
Mind that the script can easily be enhanced to collect more information, e.g voltage or battery drain if these can be accessed via MortScript. A good place to observe is the HKLM\System\State\Battery\ where different drivers are updating useful information. Unfortunately not for mine, so I have not included it here.
I've posted this in the Rhodium section as promised.
You can find it right HERE. I did copy your post to keep things more general.
concerning the images you've posted they seem to lack some quality and are a bit hard to read.
EDIT: It seems that the graphics in the attachment from the first post are just fine.
Currently I'm charging my TouchPro2 to perform the test!
thanks, mccune!
I have added your post to the list in post 2 of this thread. I really hope that all the speculation on usage time and performance which is derived by comparing "average use" over time will fade away using this simple method.
If you like to adapt the script by adding related registry values from your device, feel free to do so. Many newer battery drivers are supplying data to the HKLM\System\State\Battery hierarchy of the registry.
If doing this, please do it conditionally on existence of the value so that the script can stay generic and still run on devices where the driver does not supply the data.
I would like to follow two real physical values when the battery runs down: battery voltage and current drain from the battery. This could put the comparison of batteries even out of the "device specific" cage - still assuming that the supplied values are sufficiently accurate though. However, since charging LiIon batteries is much depending on accurate voltage, this assumption should be valid.
Regarding the pictures: The board limits the picture size to 640x480 and resizes accordingly. As you found out the ZIP has the original pictures inside.
@tobbie
I've finished the testing but I did not get the values quite correct in the Excel sheet it seems.
Can you have a look at it? You can just send me the pics and I'll post them in the Rhodium section for you.
I performed two tests.
First: just charging the battery till the LED turns green (100%) and followed the instructions from the first post to perform the test.
Second: After the first test I've removed the battery for about 30 seconds and inserted the battery but left the device turned off. After it was fully charged I removed the battery again for 30 seconds. I put back the battery and performed the test again. I've read that this is the way to calibrate your battery after flashing.
The data looks fine - you can take the sheets directly to generate an individual graph in Excel. Just mark the first 2 columns, select the "Graph" button and then the "Points(XY)" graph type.
You also have to take care that the right % values are taking the time data. It sometimes happens that the % rundown is not getting all values, so certain % values are simply never seen (like 99,98 or 24 in your data).
If you want to use one of my sheets as a sample, then you need to create a % scale first for your device (it seems it can take all % values - while for the Tornado the < 20% are stepping in larger increments).
Then the copy/paste has to use the "transpose" option of the "paste information" menu to convert the column to line data.
I have done a quick graph on your data, see attach. You can further beautify this. I am surprised to see that the device has 10 hours of rundown time with the large display. Are you sure you have set the light to the maximum value on battery?
What were the current drain readings you got from the driver?
Thanks for this I can really work with this. I realized that I could just replace your data with mine but you've already done it.
Concerning the brightness. I did set it to maximum. The ROM used however is my own custom Rhodium ROM. Maybe I'll repeat the test with a WM6.5 ROM to see if you can actually notice any difference. At the moment I'm testing a Nokia E72 so my Rhodium can be used for testing a little longer
I normally use Homescreen++ to view the current drain. Another option would be to use BattClock 1.9 which seem to support this feature as well.
What method do you use to read out the current drain?
mccune said:
The ROM used however is my own custom Rhodium ROM. Maybe I'll repeat the test with a WM6.5 ROM to see if you can actually notice any difference. At the moment I'm testing a Nokia E72 so my Rhodium can be used for testing a little longer
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good that you can spend some time on it. I doubt that the ROM is making a difference as the OEM drivers and settings (battery, display) are usually not changed when cooking.
You have seen in the charts that the "calibration" is actually not doing anything worth noting down. Put in a different battery (other vendor) and you will see a difference. Nice to see that the percentage rundown is nearly linear on the device
mccune said:
I normally use Homescreen++ to view the current drain. Another option would be to use BattClock 1.9 which seem to support this feature as well.
What method do you use to read out the current drain?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Both programs ask the same driver so they should deliver the same values.
Can you actually TELL what the value of your drain was on the Rhodium?
My "method" is to connect an Ampere-meter (an old analog one to get a clue on the average current) - a little tricky though but it works once you have managed to get the "adapter" assembled.
My current drain on the Rhodium is:
- full lit display: 134 mA
- dim display: 35 mA
- Backlight can't be turned off so can't tell what the current drain for the third measurement is.
Modified the post in the Rhodium section.
Also added this line to the post:
"(If you want to use software try HomeScreen++ or BattClock to get the readings about the current drain.)"
Updated the Rhodium section. This should be the data you were after, right?
Yes it is - actually for calculating the capacity it is now simple: roughly 10 hours with 135 mA gives 1350 mAh capacity for the battery in the Rhodium. What is the rated capacity of the battery inside?
Was it the regular battery or a spare one from a different vendor?
If you use my sheets as a template you find fields for any of the interesting data that can be listed - also battery manufacturer and serial to tell apart different batteries.
I will add the two programs to the first post so that people do not have to read the full thread. Thanks for the information.
tobbbie said:
Yes it is - actually for calculating the capacity it is now simple: roughly 10 hours with 135 mA gives 1350 mAh capacity for the battery in the Rhodium. What is the rated capacity of the battery inside?
Was it the regular battery or a spare one from a different vendor?........
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use the regular Rhodium battery. Age is about 6 or 7 months now.
Today I've finished the test with a WM6.5 ROM. As you've predicted it's pretty much the same so I decided not to add it.
What might be useful to know is that you only get 10% increments when using the default battery driver from HTC. On my 6.1 ROM I was using a 1% driver so the data is measured much more frequent.
Data for PURE
Hi,
I have recorded data for my PURE.
It seems to suck battery very fast. Doesn't normally last a workday.
I am running TESS LEO IV ROM.
Would love to compare with someone with a similar device but did not see a thread for the PURE/D2/Topaz
Thanks.
Related
I search a software that helps me to understand over a long time, the way my battery is drained or charged.
I already use acbPowerMeter but it is more for real time analysis.
I would like this software records every X minutes
- the level of draining or charging like Power Meter, the level of the battery in % or like in sktools (ac, %, voltage, current, temperature) :
On AC Line: Yes
Main battery: 71%, 3929 mV, 3 mA, 36 C
- the applications used and the percentage of cpu used like again in sktools
- if wifi, or bluetooth or gprs data is on and the number of data transmitted in the period
- calls and duration of calls
I am ready to develop it but I need advice because it is the first time I will do it on a ppc and I have not developed since a long time so eliminate languages like C++ or C#. More simple one will be appreciated.
I will need also some advice to know how to get these informations.
I promise that in exchange of these advices I will release it free.
http://www.chi-tai.info/cs_BatteryStatus_XDA_Neo_WM5_iM_cs.htm?
Interesting. Not so far of my need.
But I need one log file, and recording of all the infos every X min.
me too this would be very helpful
Instead of the old and outdated acbPowerMeter , use acbTaskMan, which fulfills most of your needs. It's far better, can even log for 24 hours and and to a file. Read my related articles in the Wiki for more info.
I have recently purchased a Mugen 3000 mA battery. I am thrilled with the extended battery life after fully charging and discharging it three times as recommended by the manufacturer. What I find annoying is that WM6 no longer gives accurate information regarding remaining battery strength. If I run the battery down to 2%, remove the battery and restart WM6 says 37%. At 2% I can repeat and WM6 still says 37%. After running down to 2% a third time and repeating WM6 says around 10%. After that it varies a bit but you get the picture.
What I would like to know is if one of you geniuses out there has discovered a registry edit, hack or 3rd party software that will provide accurate battery info so I don't have to be distracted by having my battery say 2% for hours on end or repeatedly remove and restart.
BTW, BatteryStatus Ver. 1.04.200 beta2 build 0173 reports the same incorrect info and so does SPB Mobile Shell 1.5 Home Tab.
Thanks in advance for your informed guidance. OK, that is laying it on a bit thick but I always highly recommend this site to anyone I know interested in really learning how to take full advantage of that little computer in their pocket.
Take a search on XDA for Ariel monitor maybe it solves your problem.
Thanks for the suggestion. It is a nice little program but it suffers from the same problem. I suspect I need to find a way to change the mA capacity WM6 bases it's battery calculations. I don't know if that can be done with a registry edit or if there is a third party battery monitor that has an option to change the battery capacity for calculation of percentage remaining or better yet auto detects the actual battery capacity. Ideally it would be able to both accurately read remaining percentage and make reasonably accurate time remaining estimates based on current and historical battery drain data.
It is like driving a car with a broken gas gage. Sure, you can use the odometer to estimate how much gas you have left but you are always worried your estimate is off and you will be left stranded without a phone ... oops crossed metaphors.
How do the rest of the users with extended batteries handle this irritating situation?
Bump. I can't believe i'm the only one with this problem.
I know this problem also i will wait with buying a high capacy battery until i find such a hack
The Kaiser uses a smartbattery. The battery capacity is based on the information that a small processor inside the battery tells the phone's main processor. There are several things that could be the problem:
1. The small processor in the 3rd party battery is programmed with the old specs for the standard battery. The is nothing you could do about this.
2. The small processor needs to be calibrated. You would do this as follows; set your phone to never turn off no matter how low the battery got. Now, run the phone down until the thing dies from lack of power. Then charge it all the way up. This should fix that issue. I don't recomend doing it many times, because it is not good for Lion batteries to be fully discharged too often.
This is a very valid issue which I have faced many times when using a 3rd party extended battery with other phones.
Not sure how to solve it though, although I have the 3000mah on order myself.
I think the battery reading is given by the battery itself, and most of these 3rd party manufacturers don't really care to put a smart processor in the battery (to reduce costs/make it smaller/etc).
I have the exact same issue and although it is a nuisance, I have found a workaround to keep using the phone. Simply physically removing the battery and replacing it will increase your remaining battery power substantially. I normally wait till the first low battery reminder to do this. Also, how do I set the phone to never turn off no matter how low the battery gets? This would also be fine with me.
utbiglall said:
I have the exact same issue and although it is a nuisance, I have found a workaround to keep using the phone. Simply physically removing the battery and replacing it will increase your remaining battery power substantially. I normally wait till the first low battery reminder to do this. Also, how do I set the phone to never turn off no matter how low the battery gets? This would also be fine with me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't run into this issue until I reflashed my ROM to one with W6.1. Then, rather than get 12-13 hrs with my 3amp battery, I'd get 6. I used my original battery, but when I put the 3amp back in, I still had 47% left.
It's the ROM, and until there's a fix, it would be a pain to pull and replace the battery just to work around. I've done this several times recently when I'm on battery power, but I'd rather not.
Anybody heard of any other fixes, outside monitor, or do we wait until we get a Windows Mobile 6.1 fix?
Still no luck?
Hello,
Has anyone been able to find a solution for this. I am ordering the extended battery today. I will try to fully discharge it and then recharge it as was suggested and report back.
I emailed Mugen. We went back and forth with them trying to troubleshoot whether it's the battery or OS. They were clueless, but did offer an RMA to replace the battery. I pay the postage. Not sure if I'll send it back if it's the OS. I pull and replace the battery right now. It's a real pain, and I hate opening the case so much, but it's the only way I can get an accurate read.
PhoenixAG said:
This is a very valid issue which I have faced many times when using a 3rd party extended battery with other phones.
Not sure how to solve it though, although I have the 3000mah on order myself.
I think the battery reading is given by the battery itself, and most of these 3rd party manufacturers don't really care to put a smart processor in the battery (to reduce costs/make it smaller/etc).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The processor is required for these types of lithium ion batteries because it regulates the charging of the battery. If it didn't the battery would not charge properly, or maybe not even charge at all.
There is no solution for now, people from other forums tries to patch battdrvr.dll.
But two things may help a little:
1.You may completely disable battery monitoring
HKLM\Drivers\BuiltIn\Battery rename or remove string battdrvr.dll
But you lost monitoring completely.
2. change HKLM\Drivers\BuiltIn\Battery\Order change value from 15 (in my case) to 0. - After this battery lasts longer until power off.
There is not complete hardware or software solution for this problem. We need to wait.
Low Battery warning:
By default, a PPC will sound a warning sound when the battery is running low (10%, fixed value), but there's no way to disable or change the notification. To enable this, so that it is visible in the "Sounds & Notifications" control panel, set:
HKCU\ControlPanel\Notifications\{A877D663-239C-47a7-9304-0D347F580408}\Default = "Low battery warning" (REGSZ string, no quotes)
Anybody have any updates on this? I have noticed this more on WM6.1, but it was still an issue on WM6. I just find this so annoying!
Is there any radio that can fix this? I noiced that this battery reading issue only occurs when the Phone Signal is on. When off, it never happens to me. Or it seems. So it has something to do with the radio.
bump, anyone got a solution?
this is very interesting, i bought the seidio 3200 battery i am having the same problems. i just tired the
change HKLM\Drivers\BuiltIn\Battery\Order change value from 15 (in my case) to 0
i am going to see how that works out throughout the day
Tried It
I am having same issue, reset the registry key to "0" and ran for a full day, no change, still incorrect reading. I have a 2700 Mah battery and the charge indicater is completely wrong on it. I have cycled the battery as per reccoemndations, but still get wrong power remaining readings. Can remove the battery and resets itselft to a more correct reading.
I am out of ideas, guess we need someone from HTC to chime in with a hardware fix.
MWS
ms0529 said:
I am having same issue, reset the registry key to "0" and ran for a full day, no change, still incorrect reading. I have a 2700 Mah battery and the charge indicater is completely wrong on it. I have cycled the battery as per reccoemndations, but still get wrong power remaining readings. Can remove the battery and resets itselft to a more correct reading.
I am out of ideas, guess we need someone from HTC to chime in with a hardware fix.
MWS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i have tried it too and it still does the same thing. i would still need to pull the battery and restart the device for the batt meter to get a more accurate reading. i could do it about 3 times before the battery dies completely.
is there this problem with all extended batteries or just with the larger ones?
the reason I ask is that I've got a $17 credit at Amazon and was thinking of grabbing a 1600mah battery, it's only like $22 with ship so I'll only pay a few bucks for it really...
I wanted to get the larger one but it's fat and won't fit standard carrying case, but the 1600 is slim and will fit in place a regular battery
With the HD2's pretty short battery life compared to my previous HTC phones, and also as I was a bit bored , I decided to have a look at how much the different systems drain in the HD2, and did some tests.
So for anyone interested, here are the results:
Base consumptions: (pick the one that suits your situation)
Standby, phone on, WIFI+BT off, no connections active: 5mA
Processor running idle, screen off, connections as above: 55mA
100% CPU usage (Coreplayer benchmark), connections as above: 315mA
USB connected, connections as above: 125mA
Additions: (add this to the base one depending on what you have on)
Connections:
BT on, idle: +1mA
Wifi on, idle: +5mA BUT!! If you enable wifi during standby (with BsB Tweaks or the WifiNoStandby CAB), the processor does NOT go to standby
anymore, so the base needs to be the 55mA above!
Connected to EDGE, idle: not measureable
Connected to 3G, idle: +4mA
Beware those 2 will occasionally and unpredictably send data every now and then, so this doesn't necessarily mean much.
BT transfer (file copy through ActiveSync, 120kB/s, CPU usage ~2%): +80mA
Wifi transfer (file copy with Wifi Remote access, 1MB/s, CPU usage ~3%): +200mA
EDGE/3G transfer: Pretty impossible to measure due to so many variables, but can be extreme (total current consumptions of 850-1150mA, so very approximative 500-800mA draw from the data connection during page loads are common!), and leads to most of the energy draw when using the net a lot. EDGE uses more power than 3G, consumption is higher when network coverage is lower, bad network throughput or congestion also mean lots of retries/overhead and less effective data transfer, using power for a longer time until the data is finally there.
Memory access (large file transfer):
Internal read/write through ActiveSync (speeds 2.5 / 2.1 MB/s respectively): +20mA / +130mA
Card read/write through ActiveSync (speeds 3.2 / 2.7MB/s respectively): +25mA / +40mA
Card read/write in USB disk mode (speeds 7.5 / 5MB/s respectively): +40mA / +45mA
Backlight:
10%: +65mA
20%: +78mA
30%: +90mA
40%: +105mA
50%: +121mA
60%: +136mA
70%: +154mA
80%: +170mA
90%: +190mA
100%:+210mA
GPS:
+95mA
Flashlight (with HTC Flashlight):
Level 1: +32mA
Level 2 (same as camera flash on): +107mA
Level 3 (same as camera "bright flash during shot"): +530mA
And remember the battery capacity: 1230mAh
So with this you can calculate your battery life for various activities. For example:
- Playing a video with full backlight: Let's say the video is well encoded (30% CPU use, for example 720x400 1Mbps DivX), that's about 150mA base, + 210mA backlight = 360mA, resulting in about 3h20 battery life.
- Same at night with only 40% backlight: Life goes up to about 5h!
- Wifi during standby for an 8h night, or a program that somehow prevents the phone from entering standby: 60mA or 55mA respectively, draining about 40% of the battery during that time.
- GPS program, with 70% backlight: Let's assume 150mA for the processor as it has some work to do, 90mA for the GPS, 154mA for the backlight = 394mA, or 3 hours.
- Music through wired headphones, screen off: the 55mA base plus a little 5mA as MP3 decoding is nothing for the CPU = 60mA or 20h.
- Same with a BT headset, with about half the BT bandwidth: 60+40 = 100mA or 12h
etc.
Charging
[EDIT 14.04.10]
This is now a dedicated section as I did some more thorough charging tests.
So, as some of you might know, the HD2 has 2 charging "modes".
- One is USB, that is used if the phone is connected to a PC, or an unknown device. In this mode, the current the HD2 will draw from the port/charger is limited to approx. 470mA, to stay within the maximum of 500mA a USB port can supply.
- The other is "dedicated charger", which is recognised on the original HTC charger (and some others, it's becoming a standard for a "dedicated charging USB port") by shorting of the 2 data pins of the USB connector in the charger.
USB charge
Important to know, during USB charge, the phone will NOT go to sleep, as it's supposed to be connected to a PC, and be running either ActiveSync, Disk drive mode, or modem, and in all 3 cases would be expected not to shutdown. So not only the current supplied to the HD2 is low, but the phone draws some of it for itself, leaving very little for actual charge - so expect loooong charge times.
USB charge with screen on (backlight dimmed, 10%): 285mA
USB charge with screen off (standby): 345mA (which shows the processor still runs and draws the "base USB" current)
Dedicated charger
When used with a charger that has the 2 USB data pins shorted, such as the original charger, the HD2 will draw a current that is proportional to the voltage on the USB power lines. To measure this I have used the original supplied USB cable, a variable regulated power supply, USB socket (with data pins shorted), and 2 meters for voltage/current. Voltages are measured at the "PC" end of the USB cable, so not taking account of losses in the USB cable. Will talk more about this later on.
Current vs Voltage diagrams are attached. Charge current is proportional to voltage, linearly until it reaches the max charge current, approx 830mA. This was measured so that the only draw is charge. If the phone is turned on while at max charge current, it will draw extra, until it reaches about 980mA, and will then stop to respect the 1A rating of the stock charger.
Now, to the influence of USB cables. I initially had some trouble with inconsistant numbers, phone only drawing 670mA from the stock charger, i.e matching neither the ~350mA from USB, or ~830mA from stock charger in "normal" condition. Turns out that to make it more convenient on my workplace I was using an USB extension between charger and HD2 cable. It was a $2 extension I bought on Dealextreme. Removing it solved the problem... and after making those measurements I poked with it again. Turns out that at 1A current, the voltage drop in the extension (which by the way isn't longer than the HD2's USB cable) was 1.8V! Yep, nearly 2 Ohms for a 1.5m extension! Couldn't believe it.
I have a cheap Chinese microUSB cable that wasn't as bad,but still significantly more resistive than the stock one, hence me noting I used the stock cable for my tests. So, quality of the cables, extensions, adapters IS important! Note the phone correctly reaches full charge current a little bit under the 5V USB spec, so everything is well tuned.
Now, important to know, Most 3rd party chargers will not have the 2 USB data pins shorted, and will thus result in the same behavior as mentioned under USB charge, the processor will also be running continuously drawing the "base USB" current.
It is often possible to modify 3rd party chargers by opening them and shorting the pins, speeding up charge. The voltage/current curve behavior is actually helping there, because thanks to it if the charger is overloaded its voltage will most likely fall a bit, and the HD2 will thus draw less and find a nice balance point. This DOES NOT mean there's no possiblilty of damaging the charger, but all 3 I modified did well. One that was really weak resulted in not much more current being drawn after the mod than before (i.e voltage fell very low, approx. 4.4V), however the gain from not having the processor running like in USB mode still sped up charge a little.
Thank you, that is one useful chunk of comprehensive information
Could you please explain the exact measuring method for these tests?
40% backlight at night is a tough example tho, Lumos on my device is set to 10% for 0 sensor value, and only because I can't set it to lower than 10%... nice to know battery drain goes up twice from 10% to 60%!
Also, 100% is usually really necessary under direct sunlight, in a normal lit room probably 40% backlight is more than enough to watch a video... all in all, with your superinteresting info, the battery doesn't look like lasting "too short" now, but more or less "the right amount considering the battery capacity".
My iPaq 210 has a 2200mAh battery, just to make a comparison... that's why I could go for 8 hrs during some bus trips while watching tv series, and I just needed to swap battery and used a little of the second one.
What's your estimate of the drain caused by activating push email? I've recently been doing some rather crude experiments myself, and one provisional conclusion is that push email on a hotmail account uses a lot more battery than push email on an Exchange server.
Excellent stuff, you are to be congratulated.
I have a long held theory and I wonder if you are in a position to to test it?
I believe that battery consumption is greatly increased when an app is run from mem card and would be intrigued to see a comparison between an install to this as opposed to phone mem.
Any chance?
Battery levels
I found that power consumption of the battery got even worse after I went to Rom 1.66.707.1. However, after a few days, I let it run all the way out, switched back on, it ran out after a few minutes. Then after an overnight charge I found the battery (on standby) only went down by about 10 -12 % in 24hrs. I'm hoping this performance will continue.
What did you use for the testing?
pa49 said:
Excellent stuff, you are to be congratulated.
I have a long held theory and I wonder if you are in a position to to test it?
I believe that battery consumption is greatly increased when an app is run from mem card and would be intrigued to see a comparison between an install to this as opposed to phone mem.
Any chance?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would be reasonable as reading from an external media will need energy to access its contents... still, once the app files have been loaded into the device's RAM, it shouldn't matter much
You could also test by comparing:
1) copy say 30mb from one location to another of the internal mem
2) copy from microsd to microsd
3) copy from mem to microsd
4) copy from microsd to mem
ephestione said:
Could you please explain the exact measuring method for these tests?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Simply using the built-in current sensor, getting the reads from AEBPlus battery information screen, and methodically turning things on/off once the others are evaluated and can be subtracted from the total reading.
ephestione said:
40% backlight at night is a tough example tho, Lumos on my device is set to 10% for 0 sensor value, and only because I can't set it to lower than 10%...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really? You should force the backlight off then
I love bright images myself, so even in my bed in total darkness if I watch a video or photos I'll force 100% backlight I have Lumos set to force 100% for Coreplayer, Resco Photo manager and HTC album
Of course not for browsing or just messing around, in that case it's 20% for me
Shasarak said:
What's your estimate of the drain caused by activating push email? I've recently been doing some rather crude experiments myself, and one provisional conclusion is that push email on a hotmail account uses a lot more battery than push email on an Exchange server.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's one thing I'd have no idea about... I've never used push email at all. And that's "standby usage", so hard to evaluate, as you never know when it kicks in.
Measuring that would need to be done on a long time. I'd say to leave your phone one night with push email off, one night with Exchange only, and one night with hotmail only, and then check the difference, preferably with a battery at about 80% charge at the start (mine seems to fall from 100% to 90% in a few minutes before becoming more regular, so I'd say the top of the scale isn't that reliable).
And I should really try push email once, that would be nice, but I *think* I have no provider that can do it for me... well I have a gmail account I never use, I should try to see if I can have it check my usual 3 mail accounts, aggregate and push... never really looked into that stuff.
pa49 said:
Excellent stuff, you are to be congratulated.
I have a long held theory and I wonder if you are in a position to to test it?
I believe that battery consumption is greatly increased when an app is run from mem card and would be intrigued to see a comparison between an install to this as opposed to phone mem.
Any chance?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks
Well I'd tend to refute that theory, because when I tested the BT and Wifi in use I tried read from internal memory, write to internal, read from card and write to card, and all 4 were identical. I should have mentioned it indeed, but I was mostly interested to seeing if reads (wifi/BT "sending") and writes (wifi/BT "receiving") would have an influence on consumption, which wasn't the case, as well as whether the throughput was different, which wasn't the case either.
But I've done a few more tests, see the updated first post
One intersting thing is firstly that when the HD2 is connected to USB, the current draw grows significantly, so I've made a new "base consumption".
Next, the card is actually faster than the internal memory both in reads and in writes, tested both through activesync for consistency. Writing to the internal memory eats a LOT more than writing to the card. Reading from the card eats a little more than reading from internal memory, probably evens out as the reads are shorter due to faster transfer rate.
I've added some charging tests as well. Apparently, even if the phone "disconnects" from USB when turned off, the processor still runs and uses about the "USB connected" base current.
kilrah said:
Simply using the built-in current sensor, getting the reads from AEBPlus battery information screen, and methodically turning things on/off once the others are evaluated and can be subtracted from the total reading.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
d'oh aebplus has a battery information screen, checking it right away In that case you'd have to take into consideration aebplus' current absorption anyway... which is not measurable as you cannot check the current intake of aebplus without aebplus being running
I have the cab on the sd already, but didn't install if after noticing that didn't work for button assignments with later versions of the rom... does it work for you on that side? I used the program all the time on my previous ipaq because it was oh so useful but never got around to notice it had a battery info subsection.
Really? You should force the backlight off then
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wouldn't have much sense doing it in the dark would it (admitting it's possible altogether on the HD2!)
But I actually used my oooold casio cassiopeia, about 7 years ago, with backlight turned off, while reading ebooks with speed reader plus during train trips, as the neon lights created a reflection good enough on the display so that I didn't need backlight...
in the end, the backlight died altogether and until I bought a new device, I managed to use it with light turned off
A flashing LED (incoming SMS warning, e.g.) seems to add consumption of 1-3mA.
Running FlexMail in background with a push service (IMAP IDLE) adds up to 30mA.
ephestione said:
does it work for you on that side?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AEBPlus works fine for me yes... but I don't have a "latest version" ROM AFAIK. I don't like WM6.5.x new softkey arrangement, so I'm staying with 6.5.
Anyway more about Push, I configured that through gmail yesterday, and it works just fine. I left it on during the night, and this morning I had lost 8% battery. So it's pretty much negligible. I received 2 e-mails during the night and was on 3G network.
this is a nice topic! i am interested in how much extra it uses when you are playing a MP3 with the build in HTC app?
maybe it would be a nice idea to make a program that outputs results like you pasted fast and easy (something like a benchmark app) so we can test different rom's fast? too bad i cant write anything otherwise i would try..
OK, seems MP3 uses 120mA screen off, both with Sense player and Coreplayer, so:
Processor running idle, screen off base + 65mA
But it seems to make some pretty big "jumps" once in a while. Maybe they both decode ior fetch from memory by "batches"...
my test,
HD2 rom 1.66
with BT on and BT off (configured but no connection to headset) difference in consumption is 60mA .!
BT is draining my HD2 .!
kilrah said:
OK, seems MP3 uses 120mA screen off, both with Sense player and Coreplayer, so:
Processor running idle, screen off base + 65mA
But it seems to make some pretty big "jumps" once in a while. Maybe they both decode ior fetch from memory by "batches"...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, I can't confirm the BT issue. Did you observe over a long period of time? The "quiet" current for MP3 I seem to get is 185mA with screen on and backlight at 10%, but sometimes it will climb to 280-320mA for a moment and go down again, both with BT on and off. With screen off for a while it seems to stabilise at the "quiet" level.
BTW, it seems that Advanced task manager isn't reporting CPU usage levels properly. Does someone know of a CPU monitor that works correclty on the HD2?
Yup. review over multiple 6 mins. all baseline(3g/brightness) setting the same. resetting each time for off on BT.
kilrah said:
OK, I can't confirm the BT issue. Did you observe over a long period of time? The "quiet" current for MP3 I seem to get is 185mA with screen on and backlight at 10%, but sometimes it will climb to 280-320mA for a moment and go down again, both with BT on and off. With screen off for a while it seems to stabilise at the "quiet" level.
BTW, it seems that Advanced task manager isn't reporting CPU usage levels properly. Does someone know of a CPU monitor that works correclty on the HD2?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Another consideration:
Data connection sucks power when used actively. Badly. As mentioned in the OP I haven't made comprehensive tests due to low monthly allowance, but I've had a look during normal use.
I'm pretty regularly doing 1hr train rides, during which I will be listnening to music , and browse the net at the same time. It's usually bright, so backlight will probably be at 70%. Signal is relatively low most of the time, on EDGE, inbetween small towns. When I'm on a "static" page (reading an already loaded page), current drain varies between 250 and 350mA.
But while loading a page, it will easily soar to 800mA+. Considering it takes 30-60 seconds to read a page, 20 to load a new one, and repeat... you can quickly see that this kind of usage leads to serious drain... in less than 2 hours the battery would be dead.
So be aware of how much power data connection will use. It's directly proportional to the amount of transferred data, and the worse the reception the more power it uses.
I should try using opera mini again, like I was always doing on my Kaiser. I never noticed excessive drain with it, but opera mini easily divides traffic by a factor of 10...
Just wanted to report that the new version of the superuseful BattClock has now a builtin battery current output, even if it's not really update once per second... seems more like one every 10 seconds.
I get ~240mA playing fullscreen stretched Frasier in lowest backlight (but that's with the keypad leds turned on all the time, I don't know why they don't go off, and I don't have keypadledcontrol installed... so that's a problem), and I get a total 630mA with HTC flashlight at maximum.
Good news! Bye bye Batti
Normal about the refresh time, the sensor only updates every 20 secs or so.
Some new considerations I posted somewhere else but should have put here.
After some time the HD2 seems to have better battery life, but usually it's not your battery lasting longer, it's just you not spending your day playing with the thing anymore.
It's always the same thing, the more a device can do, the more you do with it. On my first 1h train journeys after getting my HD2, I was able to kill 50% battery in 1hr. My first thought was "wow, with my Kaiser I would only use like 15%!!"
But then I took a second thought. I used 50%, but I was browsing the web, in bad reception areas, while listening to music the whole time. With my Kaiser, I'd put music on, check 3 webpages, then put it on the tray with just MSN connected and just pick it up to read/type a message once in a while.
On a next trip, I "forced myself" to do the same with the HD2. Just checked the news for 5 mins, then only listened to music and picked up msn once in a while, plus an unexpected 10min phone call. Guess what? I've only used 20% battery during the trip this time
The "problem" is that browsing with the Kaiser was just painful, so I'd just check the news and put it away. On the HD2 it's so comfortable I forget it and just spend my whole trip browsing heavy pages, which obviously kills battery in no time...
exactly my thoughts and findings
Be warned that this thread is now outdated. There might be more current guides available…
THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO MAKING YOUR BATTERY LAST LONGER ON YOUR HTC HD2 WITH ANDROID
OK I suppose this should be stickied as I've found numerous threads saying various stuff, but not a single thread, dedicated solely to this, providing useful and organized info.
Note: This guide is by no means definitive. Please feel free to correct me and add more tips, I'll be sure to add them to this post.
STEPS:
1. Try out a few ROMs and Radios to see which combination works best for keeping Android run as long as possible.
I have yet to find the best combo for my phone, but generally, the lightest ROMs with not much bloat in them (lots of items removed, fast startup) work best. With Radios it's all trial and error – a Radio that works miracles for one user is useless for another. You just have to try and see.
I know this is probably driving you crazy as you can read it everywhere around, but this can't be stressed enough: Don't flash your phone with a ROM/Radio you're not absolutely sure won't brick it. No one wants you to brick your expensive device. Read the flashing guides very carefully before you go on and do it.
Updating your build's Kernel is also a good idea.
2. Make sure you boot Android up as fast after running Windows as possible.
This one is crucial as it seems to affect your battery a lot.
To aid this, you can:
Download and install this (free) app (Exceller Multiple Build Loader is what I use, but you can choose something else) for the WM6. It enables you to autoboot into Android in the timespan of three seconds after running Windows, which is what you ideally want to do.
Disable HTC Sense in WM, it's unnecessary if you just want to boot into Android and takes a lot of time to load up. To do this, go to System settings, press Home, go to the Items tab and uncheck HTC Sense. You may want to check Windows Default to have at least the Zune-style interface to start from, but this isn't necessary if you're ok with an empty homescreen in WM.
3. Decrease the system load by automatically killing apps you no longer use.
This one gives a fair battery boost. By default, Android keeps all apps ready in RAM even if you press Home or Back to exit them to make them start quickly next time you need them and to keep their state. Most apps have a suspend mode which enables them to demand close to zero system resources as they run in the background, but some don't and close to zero isn't zero.
Download and install Automatic Task Killer (free) from the Market.
It gives you a list of the installed apps and enables you to uncheck those you don't want to autokill. It can also add your new apps to the list automatically.
Don't forget to uncheck applications you need to be running constantly, such as SetCPU (see below).
According to hastarin, this doesn't give you a battery boost. See the "What DOESN'T improve battery life" section. You can use AutoKiller Memory Optimizer, if you want to tweak your RAM – this app lets you set the limits for automatically killing apps only when you're low on RAM, which in turn may give you a battery boost.
4. Decrease the CPU performance when it doesn't need to perform at full speed.
I'm sure you're proud of your HD2's Snapdragon running at 1 GHz, I know I am, but it also drains a lot of battery when running on full speed.
NOTE: Using SetCPU with hastarin's R8 Kernel makes it redundant as the Kernel already has an interactive CPU governor in it. Thanks to socrated13 and atticus182 for this tip.
Download and install SetCPU ($1.99) from the Market.
It allows you to underclock your CPU to save battery. You can set profiles and play around with them. Generally, you don't want to set the minimum frequency too low as some tasks may then consume significantly more time to complete, wasting the energy you gained.
If you just want to try the app first to see if it helps, you can get it for free (search for SetCPU here at xda) and donate later by buying it on the Market (and please do, the developer put a lot of effort into it).
5. [INFORMATIVE] See how much energy your phone drains.
This one is not compulsory, but helps to get a general idea of how much energy your phone drains when you do such and such.
Download and install the Current Widget (free) from this forum. Just do a search on "current widget" and it should be the first post that comes up (don't worry, yes it's under Samsung Vibrant, but it works just as good for the HD2)
It allows you to put a widget on one of your home screens, where you can see the current your phone is currently draining. Can be set to update at various intervals. I prefer 30 s as it gives me enough time to shut down an app and look at it to see how much current the app itself is draining.
6. Decrease the brightness of your display.
This saves an incredible amount of battery life. I know you love your AutoBrightness, but it sets the brightness unnecessarily high, so until someone makes an AutoBrightness app with customizable overall brightness (once I get into programming apps for the Droid a bit, I might do it), you're left with doing this yourself.
Download and install the Brightness Rocker Lite (free) app from the market.
It displays a brightness bar everytime you bring up the volume control and thus lets you quickly change the brightness. Use the minimum brightness to see everything clearly and you should conserve a lot of juice.
7. Only use wireless functions when needed.
Having the mobile data connection, wifi, GPS or bluetooth enabled all the time causes severe battery drain. Sometimes even after you disconnect, the data connection connects again without you even knowing, downloading Over-the-Air updates or Weather, draining your battery unnecessarily.
Have a quick way to monitor which services are on and to turn them off (preferrably, have a widget/widgets on your home screen - I recommend the native Android widgets).
8. Recondition your phone for your battery after flashing each new Android build. (Thanks to t1h5ta3 for this tip)
Flashing a new Android build erases the battery stats and automatically rebuilds them based on voltages it sees, i.e. you need to recondition after each flash to get max battery life. The values are stored in the following file: data/system/batterystats.bin – if you delete this file, you set the new ground for making a new one from the value you want.
You can use the "battery life" widget by curvefish to show you temperature, voltage etc. What you're going for is voltage larger than 4.2 V on full charge.
To recondition:
Turn off the phone, plug it in, preferably overnight.
Boot the phone up while still pluged in.
Delete the batterystats.bin file ether through adb or terminal.
Drain the battery fully, until it powers down. Wait a minute or two and reboot it to drain it completely.
Congrats... your phone now knows corect voltage values for 100% and dead.
To delete the batterystats.bin file:
Find the means to be able to punch in lines of code. You can do this either by downloading and setting up the Android SDK or using a simplifying app like Droid Explorer. Do a google search for whichever you prefer.
Punch in the following code:
Code:
rm data/system/batterystats.bin
Or just find the file in Droid Explorer and delete it.
What DOESN'T improve battery life:
Getting a slower (and thus presumably less power-consuming) SD Card – because a slower SD card actually makes things worse as it needs more time to perform a task and thus keep the CPU busy a longer time.
Underclocking your CPU too much – similar reasons
Killing tasks automatically immediately after closing them – this apparently makes battery life worse, because when a program is in RAM, it doesn't consume system resources, but when you run it again, it does. Thanks to hastarin for the clarification.
Useful threads concerning battery life:
[REF] UPDATE: ALL GOVERNORS! Save battery while running ANY Android build (featured by the xda crew)
battery voltage / wipe batt stats
Battery Solution the **FINAL POST**
Time to Recharge to Full Battery
[TIPS] Thoughts on improving battery life for Android on the HD2
[UPD] 48hours + battery with mDeejay Froyo Z v1.7
Best SD Card for Overall Android Battery Life
Increase Battery Life [WinMo registry tweaks - Need confirmation] (do give this a try)
Hope this helps. If you have more tips or on-topic threads, I'll be delighted to add.
also see http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=827355
a properly conditioned battery does wonders for battery life. a fully charged battery shuld be over 4.2v . i was finding that depending on the the true state of charge when flashing, that is the level that was being assumed by the phone as " 100%" charged. ie: when i flashed my current rom it quit charging @ only 3.7xx volts... far from fully charged.
see my thread on the file to delete etc.
edit: after doing alot more research; heres what ive found...
for what its worth: Li-Io battery technology realy isnt different whether it be a phone, rc car, etc...
our batterys are a single cell. ie: rated 3.7v
4.2-4.25v is concidered by the industry as fully charged
3.7v is nominal voltage
3.2v "shorted" voltage : ie: voltage sag due to max discharge @nominal voltage
3.0v discharged
2.5v protection circuitry kicks in.
this jives with what i am now seeing on my phone after wipeing stats and calibrating...
it is also a industry standard to fully discharge ( 3.0v )about every 30 discharge cycles.
edit
Thanks, I added your tip in the first post (will add the link to your thread too, forgot to do it now and can't edit within 5 minutes of last edit yet)
no problem.
im new to playing with the hd2, but been playing with android for well, just about 2 years (early G1 adopter)
it shocked me coming to this forum and seeing the same question worded diferently atleast 7 times on the first page.
lets hope mod's will sticky this..
I'm no expert but from what I've been seeing the difference setCPU makes with the new hastarin kernel's is negligible. In fact I don't think you can use setCPU with with r8 anymore...
Excellent thread! All info was scattered throughout the forums, and this is a nice thread to sum up everything!
Indeed, using hastarin's R8 you won't need to use setCPU since hastarin has included an interactive governor in his kernel
R8 is a vast improvement over the older kernels, I would reccommend it to everybody that uses Android on his/her HD2!
Slampisko,
Very nicely done and there should be more informative guides like this!
Should be made an instant sticky.
PLEASE do yourself a favor and don't use an automatic task killer. Just because an app is in memory doesn't mean it's using CPU and therefore battery but it will use it to run it again after you killed it.
If you must tweak things here use Autokiller Memory Optimizer to change the levels the out of memory optimizer kicks in at.
Of course if you have an app that refuses to close or is just chewing cpu for no reason then manually killing it is fine.
More info linked in my FAQ in my sig.
Sent from my HTC HD2
Thanks for all the feedback! I'll edit the first post to include the additional info...
Hey guys, cool guide
I tried somes tuff, and read various posts, but somehow I cant figure out why my HD2 with MDJ FroYo Sense Clean v. 2.2 [kernel: hastarin R8] keeps sucking the battery empty so far.
Only program i installed in addition to the Android version mentioned above, is the Current Widget to the how much mA it drains.
Those are my settings:
MDJ FroYo Sense Clean v. 2.2 [kernel: hastarin R8]
GSM only (2G)
Data disabled
Wifi disabled
GPS disabled
Bluetooth disabled
syncing disabled (Background data + auto sync both disabled)
I also killed all running things that i think i dont need and still Current Widget shows me, battery drains in standby 55mA-60mA
So i was wondering what i am missing??? since most of the users get a standby mA of 8 or below... I tried for several days now, but somehow i cant find a solution...
just an update from me....
after conditioning the battery, im currently @27 hours since unplugging, gps, and wifi turned on the entire time, im @ 3.873v or 61%! granted, its been light usage its my secondary phone right now, but i am on the outskirts of service, and the week signal usualy sucks the battery...
ill update again , probably this time tomorow once it finaly dies...
<edit> as you can see in post #2, after 27 hours of up time, i still have higher battery voltage than what the phone was assuming was 100% on initial flashing of the rom...... just food for thought...
That's very interesting, t1h5ta3... Trying it right now, will edit post with results
<Quote>Killing tasks automatically immediately after closing them – this apparently makes battery life worse, because when a program is in RAM, it doesn't consume system resources, but when you run it again, it does. Thanks to hastarin for the clarification.<End>
Do not necessaryly agree. A 'program' is a collection of endless conditions and calculations that puts strain on the CPU. Unless a 'freeze program' function is built in to Android to literally freeze a program when its idle in ram the, the program will still continue to consume valueble cpu power just to stay idle albeit at a reduced rate. But having many program in memory in this state can tax the system performance draining the battery.
I don't have the file batterystats.bin in data/sytem!!!
Any help?
Edit: In fact i found it with root explorer search however i am enabling view of hidden files and i don't see it!
Does deleting it While in android by root explorer will cause any problem?!
@Life Engineer: Nope, I deleted it by Droid Explorer's console while having android up and running and nothing bad happened.
Slampisko said:
@Life Engineer: Nope, I deleted it by Droid Explorer's console while having android up and running and nothing bad happened.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
BTW i don't agree saying that conservative is the best governor; i guess many accept with me; latest tests showed that interactive is the best and it worked for me!
You may consider putting it in the thread
@Life Governor: I was thinking about that too. Will edit thread.
Question when it comes to draining the battery which side do I drain it on win or Android?
@WCENIGHTCRAWLER: Android I suppose, as Android needs to know the correct voltage for drained battery.
Slampisko said:
@WCENIGHTCRAWLER: Android I suppose, as Android needs to know the correct voltage for drained battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm unsure on this as well. Maybe I'm a bit behind on all the dev that's happened. But I remember if draining battery in Android, it messes up with the build on the SD card.
Might give this a go tonight and see.
Hello everyone,
since Battery "Problems" are popping up left and right, and i found myself putting out Information mostly based on "observations and gut feelings", i thought it's time to make this scientific.
I plan on making detailed measurements in varying states and with various Apps installed. I want to kick this thread off to get some input on what methodology you'd use, want you want tested and what you think in general about this idea.
The current plan is the following:
establish a Baseline for both, Screen on and Screen off
This would be OOS, latest stable, right after Setup without google signed in. No Wifi, no other settings changed. Screen on with a 100% white background to compare for AMOLED Black screen saving.
Those Baselines would be a 100% Score. Every change would be normalized to this percentage.
Varying Settings for SoT:
All Black Screen
Video Playing
Ebook Reading
Varying Setting for Standby drain
Wifi On/Off
Bluetooth Connected
4G/2G difference
For measuring drain, two tools are used: BBS and Battery Historian. Any physical, direct measurements are out of the question, because it would render my phone unusable Using the same tools for all variations should make them comparable.
Since Standby drain can be sub .5% per hour, getting accurate measurements takes time. So, i suggest taking a sample of close to 4 hours for standby drain and 1 hour for Screen on drain. Everything gets then normalized to %/hr. I'll start making a excel chart for all those values.
I'll take a Nandroid of the Baseline setting. After every Test, the phone gets recharged to 100%, then restored from Nandroid Backup. After that, the necessary changes are made and measurements take place. This should give every change a equal starting ground.
I started with some testing today, but, as stated above, those things take time. So, expect the first results close to the weekend. Until then, every input on methodology or variables for testing would be greatly appreciated.
The goal is, to make a comprehensive list on what you can expect certain settings to drain. That way, we can all determine wether the values we are seeing are normal or not. This would also help verify new Software versions for improvements.
Please note, that i'd rather leave the testing to myself. I do encourage you do check the values i find and report them here, but for my spreadsheet, i won't include them. A phone has to many Variables to make sure you're running the exact same setup i do (network connectivity, wireless, BT, Accounts set up, Sync Settings, Apps Installed). Since i expect differences between some variables to be close to or under .1%, it's crucial to have a perfectly controlled environment.
That's it for now. I'll report back with the first Baseline Readings as soon as they're done. Until then, Hit me with your ideas :good: