Related
Hi all,
...since I could not find a program to achieve this, I had to write one myself. Well, it is not a program, but just a MortScript to do the job of data collection while the battery is discharged.
As MortScript runs on all WM platforms from WM2k3 onwards and on both: Smartphone (standard) and PocketPC (professional), you can use this concept for all devices that MortScript runs on.
You have to take care yourself that the battery is full before you start and that the discharge is constant over time. Both is easy however
The job to discharge your battery while measured is done by the display lit to the maximum brightness and all other big current drains should be off to get comparable data. The script runs in the background and whenever the Battery% goes down is writes to a file remembering the timestamp for this.
For my devices the time to drain the batteries from full to zero was 1-16 hours, depending on how much the fully lit display draws off the battery and capacity and health of the battery.
Evaluation is done off-line with a spreadsheet program.
Usage:
install MortScript
unzip the attached file to your PC
put the battery-rundown.mscr file to the folder \My Documents\Battery or \Storage\My Documents\Battery for WM2K3 on your device
put the battery-rundown.lnk (*-wm2k3.* for WM2k3) file on your device to the \windows\startup folder. This makes sure that the script starts as soon as your device starts. It will not do any harm there and can even stay there for a longer time if you want to learn about your battery charge cycles. You can also copy it to any other place you like in the startmenu for easy access.
make sure all radio access is off (GSM/UMTS, BT, WLAN)
adjust the display and backlight on battery to stay on forever as well as backlight brightness for battery use to maximum
switch off the device
charge it until the battery is full (green light). Optionally leave it like this for another 1-3 hours to get the trickle charge squeeze the last electrons to the battery. Impact of this should not be more than 10% capacity - skip it if you are impatient.
switch on, the script starts automatically and measurement has created a file where the mortscript resides. It will continue to write to this file until the battery goes to 0% and device switches off.
disconnect from the charger (but you did this already, or?)
You can check from time to time the content of the log-file to see the progress if you like.
leave the device alone until is is off - this will take several hours, best is to do this over night. Put it at a place where the battery warning is not disturbing you at night.
after the device is off due to the empty battery, reconnect the charger and switch on after a few seconds of recovery
now you can look at the log-file and examine or post-process it in a spreadsheet program - the timestamp should tell you which file it was.
The resulting file "bd_<date-time-started>.csv can be loaded to a spreadsheet and evaluated, so you can compare your own batteries to see which is the best.
Even better, for the same device type the standardized method of measurement, where the current drain by the fully lit display should be reasonably identical for all devices, makes it possible to share battery quality data for 3rd party suppliers. A reasonable point of comparison for one device type is the time it takes until the battery is drained down to 10% - despite the discharge is not at all linear (usually).
I did all this and supply you all my data as an example to depict what you can do yourself now.
I hope you find the script useful.
For device specific discussions, please open a thread in the relevant device forum - pointing to this thread for the method - and not here. This thread is only to discuss the scripts or the method of measurement.
Note:
Please also read post 2 (device specific links) and post 3 (general hints on batteries) of this thread. I will update them from time to time when new info is available.
20100225 added:
If you want to find out how much drain happens to your battery in the test-setup, you can ask the battery driver, e.g. by using HomeScreen++ or BattClock. Mind that this data is not immediately reliable, especially when you change conditions (e.g. dim the light) the change is often reflected only minutes later. The true value can only be found by measuring the drain with an Ampere-meter. This is harder than you may think as the impedance of the meter must be very low to get the device started up properly.
20100313 added:
More programs to read the power drain:
free: acbpowermeter
cost: acbtaskman (can also export data) same provider as above.
Update to the script and few more data inserted to the spreadsheet:
The script now logs several items from the registry, including the Data for CurrentDrain and BatteryTemperature that BattClock writes if it is configured to show them in display.
Started to measure standby drain on all my spare devices - mileage varies. This is also not a real life measurement as the devices have everything shut off (light, radio etc..) and the only process that keeps them busy is the script waking up each 5 minutes. If you like you can change the value for MaxSleepTime in the script to much higher values to decrease the impact of drain to the measurement. I am not sure how this will behave on WM Professional with its complicated power model (standby mode) but on smartphone it runs very well. First data are available in the spreadsheet. It would be best of course to be notified by the system if the battery percentage changes instead of polling for it, but MortScript does not supply a method to achieve this.
20101123 added:
The script reads from data that the BattClock program writes to the registry if you configure it to do so. Further changes are:
Also BatteryVoltage is read from BattClock Data
Added log of status even if % has not changed if MaxLogWait has passed and if Battery % is below a given limit of LogForcePercent. This is needed as the last % (e.g. from 1 to 0) may take a long time (seen as 1h on an Asus P565) and the 0% will not be written because the device just switches off when 0% is reached. There is no chance for the script to write the last data to file in such case.
added a delta-% column to easily detect non linear decrements
The full change history is included in the script:
Code:
# Date ID comments
# 20101123 tobbbie changed script to match to a TAB alignment of 8 characters
# 20101123 tobbbie altered the logic for LogForcePercent and set default to 0 to not log anything by default.
# 20101010 tobbbie Added log of status even if % has not changed if MaxLogWait has passed and if Battery % is
# below a given limit of LogForcePercent. This is needed as the last % (e.g. from 1 to 0) may
# take a long time (seen as 1h on an Asus P565) and the 0% will not be written because the
# device just switches off when 0% is reached. There is no chance for the script to write the
# last data to file in such case.
# added a delta-% column to easily detect non linear decrements
# 20100425 tobbbie added Registry Read for BattClock BatteryVoltage, rearranged sequence of items
# 20100313 tobbbie added evaluation of \HKLM\System\State\Battery "main" to logging
# 20100313 tobbbie added identification of device via HKLM\Ident and IMEI in headerline
# 20100312 tobbbie made dword registry data to be logged as "0" if no data retrieved
# 20100302 tobbbie added registry read for data created by BattClock
# 20100205 tobbbie added self-adjusting sleeptime (InitSleepTime to MaxSleepTime in ms)
# 20100201 tobbbie initial version
# 20100128 tobbbie draft versions, proof of concept
Device Specific threads are available for:
Vox (tobbbie)
Tornado (tobbbie)
Hurricane (tobbbie)
Typhoon/Amadeus (tobbbie)
LG KS20 (tobbbie)
Rhodium/Touch Pro 2 (mccune)
...I will add more here if someone else starts other device specific threads, please PM me for this.
A lot of background information can be found at the "Battery University": http://www.batteryuniversity.com/index.htm
A specially interesting part is the one about charging: http://www.batteryuniversity.com/partone-12.htm
I have seen a strange charge curves on my Hurricane device - it goes to 68% and jumps to 100% suddenly. This device has a very bad discharge curve (% accuracy) anyway - so the charge fits to that as well. I am using the T-Mobile Germany SDA 2 standard firmware of the device - and since it is in my "museum" I will not put more effort in getting it tracked down.
At least I can confirm that the discharge for the same battery in the same device is nearly identical (I did this for the worst performing battery). I will upload some new result Excel soon.
To be on the safe side that your battery is properly charged, leave the battery charging for at least 4 hours. This should make sure that "step 2" of the charge (where the charge current goes down until charge cut-off) is sufficiently executed. In how much the "green LED" signal is linked to charge-cut-off is device dependent - it may even be different if you charge via the bootloader (device is completely "off") or with the battery driver controling the job.
This is really an amazing tool. Thanks
Ooops, this thread was lifted to the front-page news (I checked there to see the new design), so I hope to see some new device threads starting up and some more comparable data on "my" devices.
The echo was quite low (as of now: null) on these threads, so I suspect that people are happy with their batteries and have no need to know (or report) the truth.
Will post this in the Rhodium section as well. Great idea!
Don't give up on projects like these. It looks like XDA has a lot of members compared to a few years back, but the group of tech geeks (this is actually meant positive) remain about the same.
Thanks. Works on HD with Topix rom.
Please get back to this thread or PM me if you have reports of the test running on other devices. I'd prefer if you can deliver data along with your reports - of course.
Mind that the script can easily be enhanced to collect more information, e.g voltage or battery drain if these can be accessed via MortScript. A good place to observe is the HKLM\System\State\Battery\ where different drivers are updating useful information. Unfortunately not for mine, so I have not included it here.
I've posted this in the Rhodium section as promised.
You can find it right HERE. I did copy your post to keep things more general.
concerning the images you've posted they seem to lack some quality and are a bit hard to read.
EDIT: It seems that the graphics in the attachment from the first post are just fine.
Currently I'm charging my TouchPro2 to perform the test!
thanks, mccune!
I have added your post to the list in post 2 of this thread. I really hope that all the speculation on usage time and performance which is derived by comparing "average use" over time will fade away using this simple method.
If you like to adapt the script by adding related registry values from your device, feel free to do so. Many newer battery drivers are supplying data to the HKLM\System\State\Battery hierarchy of the registry.
If doing this, please do it conditionally on existence of the value so that the script can stay generic and still run on devices where the driver does not supply the data.
I would like to follow two real physical values when the battery runs down: battery voltage and current drain from the battery. This could put the comparison of batteries even out of the "device specific" cage - still assuming that the supplied values are sufficiently accurate though. However, since charging LiIon batteries is much depending on accurate voltage, this assumption should be valid.
Regarding the pictures: The board limits the picture size to 640x480 and resizes accordingly. As you found out the ZIP has the original pictures inside.
@tobbie
I've finished the testing but I did not get the values quite correct in the Excel sheet it seems.
Can you have a look at it? You can just send me the pics and I'll post them in the Rhodium section for you.
I performed two tests.
First: just charging the battery till the LED turns green (100%) and followed the instructions from the first post to perform the test.
Second: After the first test I've removed the battery for about 30 seconds and inserted the battery but left the device turned off. After it was fully charged I removed the battery again for 30 seconds. I put back the battery and performed the test again. I've read that this is the way to calibrate your battery after flashing.
The data looks fine - you can take the sheets directly to generate an individual graph in Excel. Just mark the first 2 columns, select the "Graph" button and then the "Points(XY)" graph type.
You also have to take care that the right % values are taking the time data. It sometimes happens that the % rundown is not getting all values, so certain % values are simply never seen (like 99,98 or 24 in your data).
If you want to use one of my sheets as a sample, then you need to create a % scale first for your device (it seems it can take all % values - while for the Tornado the < 20% are stepping in larger increments).
Then the copy/paste has to use the "transpose" option of the "paste information" menu to convert the column to line data.
I have done a quick graph on your data, see attach. You can further beautify this. I am surprised to see that the device has 10 hours of rundown time with the large display. Are you sure you have set the light to the maximum value on battery?
What were the current drain readings you got from the driver?
Thanks for this I can really work with this. I realized that I could just replace your data with mine but you've already done it.
Concerning the brightness. I did set it to maximum. The ROM used however is my own custom Rhodium ROM. Maybe I'll repeat the test with a WM6.5 ROM to see if you can actually notice any difference. At the moment I'm testing a Nokia E72 so my Rhodium can be used for testing a little longer
I normally use Homescreen++ to view the current drain. Another option would be to use BattClock 1.9 which seem to support this feature as well.
What method do you use to read out the current drain?
mccune said:
The ROM used however is my own custom Rhodium ROM. Maybe I'll repeat the test with a WM6.5 ROM to see if you can actually notice any difference. At the moment I'm testing a Nokia E72 so my Rhodium can be used for testing a little longer
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good that you can spend some time on it. I doubt that the ROM is making a difference as the OEM drivers and settings (battery, display) are usually not changed when cooking.
You have seen in the charts that the "calibration" is actually not doing anything worth noting down. Put in a different battery (other vendor) and you will see a difference. Nice to see that the percentage rundown is nearly linear on the device
mccune said:
I normally use Homescreen++ to view the current drain. Another option would be to use BattClock 1.9 which seem to support this feature as well.
What method do you use to read out the current drain?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Both programs ask the same driver so they should deliver the same values.
Can you actually TELL what the value of your drain was on the Rhodium?
My "method" is to connect an Ampere-meter (an old analog one to get a clue on the average current) - a little tricky though but it works once you have managed to get the "adapter" assembled.
My current drain on the Rhodium is:
- full lit display: 134 mA
- dim display: 35 mA
- Backlight can't be turned off so can't tell what the current drain for the third measurement is.
Modified the post in the Rhodium section.
Also added this line to the post:
"(If you want to use software try HomeScreen++ or BattClock to get the readings about the current drain.)"
Updated the Rhodium section. This should be the data you were after, right?
Yes it is - actually for calculating the capacity it is now simple: roughly 10 hours with 135 mA gives 1350 mAh capacity for the battery in the Rhodium. What is the rated capacity of the battery inside?
Was it the regular battery or a spare one from a different vendor?
If you use my sheets as a template you find fields for any of the interesting data that can be listed - also battery manufacturer and serial to tell apart different batteries.
I will add the two programs to the first post so that people do not have to read the full thread. Thanks for the information.
tobbbie said:
Yes it is - actually for calculating the capacity it is now simple: roughly 10 hours with 135 mA gives 1350 mAh capacity for the battery in the Rhodium. What is the rated capacity of the battery inside?
Was it the regular battery or a spare one from a different vendor?........
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use the regular Rhodium battery. Age is about 6 or 7 months now.
Today I've finished the test with a WM6.5 ROM. As you've predicted it's pretty much the same so I decided not to add it.
What might be useful to know is that you only get 10% increments when using the default battery driver from HTC. On my 6.1 ROM I was using a 1% driver so the data is measured much more frequent.
Data for PURE
Hi,
I have recorded data for my PURE.
It seems to suck battery very fast. Doesn't normally last a workday.
I am running TESS LEO IV ROM.
Would love to compare with someone with a similar device but did not see a thread for the PURE/D2/Topaz
Thanks.
So it seems like their are a lot of differences in battery life throughout the forums so I thought it would be a good idea to collect some info and try to see if we cant figure out whats causing the issues.
EDIT: nevermind lets post this to a google spreadsheet for easier analysis. After you post to the spreadsheet... please post your timestamp. For example I am the first to post so my timestamp is: 10/22/2010 10:12:29.
Here is where you can post your info: https://spreadsheets.google.com/viewform?formkey=dHROU2ZPU09QYUpZYy1wZFR0UnhYRlE6MQ
Here is where you can see alll the info: https://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=0Alh-Zvy4QoLbdHROU2ZPU09QYUpZYy1wZFR0UnhYRlE&output=html
Here is an analytics thing: https://spreadsheets.google.com/viewanalytics?formkey=dHROU2ZPU09QYUpZYy1wZFR0UnhYRlE6MQ
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Battery Info
What is TWS (Time without a signal):
Go here: home->settings->about phone->Battery use-> cell standby
The theory is that if you have a high percentage of TWS, that probably means your phone is spending a lot of time looking for service. This may be because the phone is set to wcdma or unknown (you can see this by dialing *#4636*1111# then clicking on phone info). In theory, if the phone is constantly searching for different towers (maybe gsm) then it will use a bunch of battery.
Discussion on TWS:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=772571
The "air plane fix":
This is a method of resetting the radio. This seems to make the TWS stop getting so high. Their are claims that this helps battery life.
- turn on air plane mode
- wait 15-30 seconds
- turn off air plane mode.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
This info below is just for reference... it is some of the stuff that I think we should collect.
So... here is some info I think we should all start to post.
Facts:
First, dial *#4636*1111# and click on battery information. Post the following when unplugged:
- Battery level
- Battery health
- Battery Voltage
- Battery temp
Now hit back and click on phone info.. post:
- signal strength
- network type
- gsm service
- gprs service
- Set preferred network type (wait 5 seconds or so, this will probably turn to unkown)
Now go to home->settings->about phone-> battery use
- tell what the top 4 items are in order
Then click cell standby and post:
- cell standby percentage
- time on
- time without a signal
hit back then click on voice calls and post:
- voice calls percentage
- time on
What rom are you using
What kernel are you using
What battery "tweaks" do you use (airplane trick, drm disable, etc...)
Do you use any software that may help (juice defender, tasker, auto start killer, auto task manager, etc...)
Do you have stock battery?
Opinions:
How many hours do you get out of your phone in a normal day?
What does your "normal" usage look like?
Is their anything else you want to tell use about how you use your phone?
Its a good idea, but there are just too many variables. I get amazing battery life, and I know exactly why I do. I use the Mixup Kernel, which lowers the voltage on the processor. I use SetCPU, which lowers the clock speed of the phone when its not needed. I use juicedefender, which turns off the radio and wifi when not in use. I have brightness set to automatic, and since I have the Mixup kernel, it works flawlessly.
Now people with push email who have their data connection always on and have facebook, twitter, etc auto updating constantly will have atrocious battery life. I can easily get 24 -36 hours out of mine sending about 50 texts and making 5-10 calls a day with some light browsing and game/music playing.
muyoso said:
Its a good idea, but there are just too many variables. I get amazing battery life, and I know exactly why I do. I use the Mixup Kernel, which lowers the voltage on the processor. I use SetCPU, which lowers the clock speed of the phone when its not needed. I use juicedefender, which turns off the radio and wifi when not in use. I have brightness set to automatic, and since I have the Mixup kernel, it works flawlessly.
Now people with push email who have their data connection always on and have facebook, twitter, etc auto updating constantly will have atrocious battery life. I can easily get 24 -36 hours out of mine sending about 50 texts and making 5-10 calls a day with some light browsing and game/music playing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I agree that there are too many variables. But I think all the items you mentioned really have little to do with it for those of us w/ extreme battery loss. Mainly because I have done all those things and I still saw my battery plummet.
Although in the end, it could just be that those of us w/ terrible battery... might just have defective phones.
Be warned that this thread is now outdated. There might be more current guides available…
THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO MAKING YOUR BATTERY LAST LONGER ON YOUR HTC HD2 WITH ANDROID
OK I suppose this should be stickied as I've found numerous threads saying various stuff, but not a single thread, dedicated solely to this, providing useful and organized info.
Note: This guide is by no means definitive. Please feel free to correct me and add more tips, I'll be sure to add them to this post.
STEPS:
1. Try out a few ROMs and Radios to see which combination works best for keeping Android run as long as possible.
I have yet to find the best combo for my phone, but generally, the lightest ROMs with not much bloat in them (lots of items removed, fast startup) work best. With Radios it's all trial and error – a Radio that works miracles for one user is useless for another. You just have to try and see.
I know this is probably driving you crazy as you can read it everywhere around, but this can't be stressed enough: Don't flash your phone with a ROM/Radio you're not absolutely sure won't brick it. No one wants you to brick your expensive device. Read the flashing guides very carefully before you go on and do it.
Updating your build's Kernel is also a good idea.
2. Make sure you boot Android up as fast after running Windows as possible.
This one is crucial as it seems to affect your battery a lot.
To aid this, you can:
Download and install this (free) app (Exceller Multiple Build Loader is what I use, but you can choose something else) for the WM6. It enables you to autoboot into Android in the timespan of three seconds after running Windows, which is what you ideally want to do.
Disable HTC Sense in WM, it's unnecessary if you just want to boot into Android and takes a lot of time to load up. To do this, go to System settings, press Home, go to the Items tab and uncheck HTC Sense. You may want to check Windows Default to have at least the Zune-style interface to start from, but this isn't necessary if you're ok with an empty homescreen in WM.
3. Decrease the system load by automatically killing apps you no longer use.
This one gives a fair battery boost. By default, Android keeps all apps ready in RAM even if you press Home or Back to exit them to make them start quickly next time you need them and to keep their state. Most apps have a suspend mode which enables them to demand close to zero system resources as they run in the background, but some don't and close to zero isn't zero.
Download and install Automatic Task Killer (free) from the Market.
It gives you a list of the installed apps and enables you to uncheck those you don't want to autokill. It can also add your new apps to the list automatically.
Don't forget to uncheck applications you need to be running constantly, such as SetCPU (see below).
According to hastarin, this doesn't give you a battery boost. See the "What DOESN'T improve battery life" section. You can use AutoKiller Memory Optimizer, if you want to tweak your RAM – this app lets you set the limits for automatically killing apps only when you're low on RAM, which in turn may give you a battery boost.
4. Decrease the CPU performance when it doesn't need to perform at full speed.
I'm sure you're proud of your HD2's Snapdragon running at 1 GHz, I know I am, but it also drains a lot of battery when running on full speed.
NOTE: Using SetCPU with hastarin's R8 Kernel makes it redundant as the Kernel already has an interactive CPU governor in it. Thanks to socrated13 and atticus182 for this tip.
Download and install SetCPU ($1.99) from the Market.
It allows you to underclock your CPU to save battery. You can set profiles and play around with them. Generally, you don't want to set the minimum frequency too low as some tasks may then consume significantly more time to complete, wasting the energy you gained.
If you just want to try the app first to see if it helps, you can get it for free (search for SetCPU here at xda) and donate later by buying it on the Market (and please do, the developer put a lot of effort into it).
5. [INFORMATIVE] See how much energy your phone drains.
This one is not compulsory, but helps to get a general idea of how much energy your phone drains when you do such and such.
Download and install the Current Widget (free) from this forum. Just do a search on "current widget" and it should be the first post that comes up (don't worry, yes it's under Samsung Vibrant, but it works just as good for the HD2)
It allows you to put a widget on one of your home screens, where you can see the current your phone is currently draining. Can be set to update at various intervals. I prefer 30 s as it gives me enough time to shut down an app and look at it to see how much current the app itself is draining.
6. Decrease the brightness of your display.
This saves an incredible amount of battery life. I know you love your AutoBrightness, but it sets the brightness unnecessarily high, so until someone makes an AutoBrightness app with customizable overall brightness (once I get into programming apps for the Droid a bit, I might do it), you're left with doing this yourself.
Download and install the Brightness Rocker Lite (free) app from the market.
It displays a brightness bar everytime you bring up the volume control and thus lets you quickly change the brightness. Use the minimum brightness to see everything clearly and you should conserve a lot of juice.
7. Only use wireless functions when needed.
Having the mobile data connection, wifi, GPS or bluetooth enabled all the time causes severe battery drain. Sometimes even after you disconnect, the data connection connects again without you even knowing, downloading Over-the-Air updates or Weather, draining your battery unnecessarily.
Have a quick way to monitor which services are on and to turn them off (preferrably, have a widget/widgets on your home screen - I recommend the native Android widgets).
8. Recondition your phone for your battery after flashing each new Android build. (Thanks to t1h5ta3 for this tip)
Flashing a new Android build erases the battery stats and automatically rebuilds them based on voltages it sees, i.e. you need to recondition after each flash to get max battery life. The values are stored in the following file: data/system/batterystats.bin – if you delete this file, you set the new ground for making a new one from the value you want.
You can use the "battery life" widget by curvefish to show you temperature, voltage etc. What you're going for is voltage larger than 4.2 V on full charge.
To recondition:
Turn off the phone, plug it in, preferably overnight.
Boot the phone up while still pluged in.
Delete the batterystats.bin file ether through adb or terminal.
Drain the battery fully, until it powers down. Wait a minute or two and reboot it to drain it completely.
Congrats... your phone now knows corect voltage values for 100% and dead.
To delete the batterystats.bin file:
Find the means to be able to punch in lines of code. You can do this either by downloading and setting up the Android SDK or using a simplifying app like Droid Explorer. Do a google search for whichever you prefer.
Punch in the following code:
Code:
rm data/system/batterystats.bin
Or just find the file in Droid Explorer and delete it.
What DOESN'T improve battery life:
Getting a slower (and thus presumably less power-consuming) SD Card – because a slower SD card actually makes things worse as it needs more time to perform a task and thus keep the CPU busy a longer time.
Underclocking your CPU too much – similar reasons
Killing tasks automatically immediately after closing them – this apparently makes battery life worse, because when a program is in RAM, it doesn't consume system resources, but when you run it again, it does. Thanks to hastarin for the clarification.
Useful threads concerning battery life:
[REF] UPDATE: ALL GOVERNORS! Save battery while running ANY Android build (featured by the xda crew)
battery voltage / wipe batt stats
Battery Solution the **FINAL POST**
Time to Recharge to Full Battery
[TIPS] Thoughts on improving battery life for Android on the HD2
[UPD] 48hours + battery with mDeejay Froyo Z v1.7
Best SD Card for Overall Android Battery Life
Increase Battery Life [WinMo registry tweaks - Need confirmation] (do give this a try)
Hope this helps. If you have more tips or on-topic threads, I'll be delighted to add.
also see http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=827355
a properly conditioned battery does wonders for battery life. a fully charged battery shuld be over 4.2v . i was finding that depending on the the true state of charge when flashing, that is the level that was being assumed by the phone as " 100%" charged. ie: when i flashed my current rom it quit charging @ only 3.7xx volts... far from fully charged.
see my thread on the file to delete etc.
edit: after doing alot more research; heres what ive found...
for what its worth: Li-Io battery technology realy isnt different whether it be a phone, rc car, etc...
our batterys are a single cell. ie: rated 3.7v
4.2-4.25v is concidered by the industry as fully charged
3.7v is nominal voltage
3.2v "shorted" voltage : ie: voltage sag due to max discharge @nominal voltage
3.0v discharged
2.5v protection circuitry kicks in.
this jives with what i am now seeing on my phone after wipeing stats and calibrating...
it is also a industry standard to fully discharge ( 3.0v )about every 30 discharge cycles.
edit
Thanks, I added your tip in the first post (will add the link to your thread too, forgot to do it now and can't edit within 5 minutes of last edit yet)
no problem.
im new to playing with the hd2, but been playing with android for well, just about 2 years (early G1 adopter)
it shocked me coming to this forum and seeing the same question worded diferently atleast 7 times on the first page.
lets hope mod's will sticky this..
I'm no expert but from what I've been seeing the difference setCPU makes with the new hastarin kernel's is negligible. In fact I don't think you can use setCPU with with r8 anymore...
Excellent thread! All info was scattered throughout the forums, and this is a nice thread to sum up everything!
Indeed, using hastarin's R8 you won't need to use setCPU since hastarin has included an interactive governor in his kernel
R8 is a vast improvement over the older kernels, I would reccommend it to everybody that uses Android on his/her HD2!
Slampisko,
Very nicely done and there should be more informative guides like this!
Should be made an instant sticky.
PLEASE do yourself a favor and don't use an automatic task killer. Just because an app is in memory doesn't mean it's using CPU and therefore battery but it will use it to run it again after you killed it.
If you must tweak things here use Autokiller Memory Optimizer to change the levels the out of memory optimizer kicks in at.
Of course if you have an app that refuses to close or is just chewing cpu for no reason then manually killing it is fine.
More info linked in my FAQ in my sig.
Sent from my HTC HD2
Thanks for all the feedback! I'll edit the first post to include the additional info...
Hey guys, cool guide
I tried somes tuff, and read various posts, but somehow I cant figure out why my HD2 with MDJ FroYo Sense Clean v. 2.2 [kernel: hastarin R8] keeps sucking the battery empty so far.
Only program i installed in addition to the Android version mentioned above, is the Current Widget to the how much mA it drains.
Those are my settings:
MDJ FroYo Sense Clean v. 2.2 [kernel: hastarin R8]
GSM only (2G)
Data disabled
Wifi disabled
GPS disabled
Bluetooth disabled
syncing disabled (Background data + auto sync both disabled)
I also killed all running things that i think i dont need and still Current Widget shows me, battery drains in standby 55mA-60mA
So i was wondering what i am missing??? since most of the users get a standby mA of 8 or below... I tried for several days now, but somehow i cant find a solution...
just an update from me....
after conditioning the battery, im currently @27 hours since unplugging, gps, and wifi turned on the entire time, im @ 3.873v or 61%! granted, its been light usage its my secondary phone right now, but i am on the outskirts of service, and the week signal usualy sucks the battery...
ill update again , probably this time tomorow once it finaly dies...
<edit> as you can see in post #2, after 27 hours of up time, i still have higher battery voltage than what the phone was assuming was 100% on initial flashing of the rom...... just food for thought...
That's very interesting, t1h5ta3... Trying it right now, will edit post with results
<Quote>Killing tasks automatically immediately after closing them – this apparently makes battery life worse, because when a program is in RAM, it doesn't consume system resources, but when you run it again, it does. Thanks to hastarin for the clarification.<End>
Do not necessaryly agree. A 'program' is a collection of endless conditions and calculations that puts strain on the CPU. Unless a 'freeze program' function is built in to Android to literally freeze a program when its idle in ram the, the program will still continue to consume valueble cpu power just to stay idle albeit at a reduced rate. But having many program in memory in this state can tax the system performance draining the battery.
I don't have the file batterystats.bin in data/sytem!!!
Any help?
Edit: In fact i found it with root explorer search however i am enabling view of hidden files and i don't see it!
Does deleting it While in android by root explorer will cause any problem?!
@Life Engineer: Nope, I deleted it by Droid Explorer's console while having android up and running and nothing bad happened.
Slampisko said:
@Life Engineer: Nope, I deleted it by Droid Explorer's console while having android up and running and nothing bad happened.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
BTW i don't agree saying that conservative is the best governor; i guess many accept with me; latest tests showed that interactive is the best and it worked for me!
You may consider putting it in the thread
@Life Governor: I was thinking about that too. Will edit thread.
Question when it comes to draining the battery which side do I drain it on win or Android?
@WCENIGHTCRAWLER: Android I suppose, as Android needs to know the correct voltage for drained battery.
Slampisko said:
@WCENIGHTCRAWLER: Android I suppose, as Android needs to know the correct voltage for drained battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm unsure on this as well. Maybe I'm a bit behind on all the dev that's happened. But I remember if draining battery in Android, it messes up with the build on the SD card.
Might give this a go tonight and see.
Hi all,
Having just bought a Yotaphone 2, latest model 801 processor and with Lollipop installed, I was impressed with it... lovely screen, sharp response, great display on the back ....until I realised that battery life on the EPD or indeed doing nothing was (and is) terrible.
This somewhat negates the point of having the EPD. Because whether you use the EPD or not, as others have found, the processor seems to be spending 100% of the time doing something like trying to connect to Google headquarters to report my unethical swearwords as I look at the battery level heading south.
To try and make sure the phone was using the least power, I went through all the running apps and services and terminated as many as I could, turned off things like Yotafit tracking, turned off the service that sends all your contact details to the Kremlin, and so on... then, I turned on the Yotaenergy mode and despite that, we are at less than 24 hours with virtually no phone usage at all. Fully 50% of all the energy according to the battery stats is being used by Android System and Android OS processes when the system is in standby. And the historic battery screenshot shows that the processor is active 100% of the time., even though the phone has not been touched. (sorry, not attached, I'll post at some point, but its not very interesting)
So, does anyone have any clues about how this can be fixed? I have seen screenshots where people have shown that their processors are not active the whole time, and I imagine they have Lollipop? I have heard Lollipop has got some kind of bug which means that data connections are live the whole time, not sure if this is related.
(This might explain the sudden appearance of half price devices on eBay around six months after launch in the UK.)
Many thanks in advance!
YotaDevices has acknowledged the problems on Lollipop battery life, which is the reason they won't be shipping devices coming to USA preinstalled with Lollipop, but with KitKat. Now that I've played around with the EPD and created some widgets/applications for it, I can spot many places where things can go wrong in maintaining battery life and still keep things working.
Personally I've been lucky with the battery life on all versions of Android. When I updated to the last version of Lollipop (firmware 1.44), the phone did show poor battery life for hours after the installation was finished, before calming down to the promised 5 days stand by. Are you on the very last firmware? (Settings - about phone - build number)
As a last resort if your device won't settle down, I guess you could roll back to Kitkat, which had a very good battery life for pretty much everyone. You can install it with Yota's flasher tool: ftp://fw.ydevices.com/YotaPhone2/YotaPhoneFlasher/yotaphone2_flasher.exe
Just carefully select your own region and then the last version of KitKat (4.4.3) they offer. As you are rolling back from one major version to another, I would suggest flashing pretty much everything. You will lose your data.
Yota has said that they are working on bringing Lollipop 5.1 or 5.2 to Yotaphone 2. Let's hope that that works better.
Thanks that was very useful. The question is, will Yota do another build ... or build another device? I'm hoping the Y2 has a bit of life left in it yet and they do launch in the US - it can only help the development community!
I reset back to factory/Lollipop last night as it was eating battery so fast I could not believe it, and I am on the latest build 1.44EU (and was before). Since then.. it doesn't seem to be misbehaving so much, but it does seem to insist that the WIFI is on (when it is switched 'off' in the settings) by 'on' I mean the battery usage recorder... I wil take your advice and 'take it slow' for now, but may flash back to Kitkat if necessary. It is a bit tedious having to reinstall all your apps by hand but this seems to be the only way to ensure it is relatively clean.
The screengrabs below show the phone doing nothing at all in Yotaenergy mode - per first post.
ridgemagnet said:
Thanks that was very useful. The question is, will Yota do another build ... or build another device? I'm hoping the Y2 has a bit of life left in it yet and they do launch in the US - it can only help the development community!
I reset back to factory/Lollipop last night as it was eating battery so fast I could not believe it, and I am on the latest build 1.44EU (and was before). Since then.. it doesn't seem to be misbehaving so much, but it does seem to insist that the WIFI is on (when it is switched 'off' in the settings) by 'on' I mean the battery usage recorder... I wil take your advice and 'take it slow' for now, but may flash back to Kitkat if necessary. It is a bit tedious having to reinstall all your apps by hand but this seems to be the only way to ensure it is relatively clean.
The screengrabs below show the phone doing nothing at all in Yotaenergy mode - per first post.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am quite confident that they will release updated Lollipop sooner or later. They don't have the resources to piss off all their customers just yet.
Your Wifi still does some scans on its own for Google's location service, even if it's not enabled. You can disable this feature in the advanced wifi settings. But that is not the cause of your battery problem. Basically your device is awake all the time, meaning something is holding a wake lock. And by something I mean one of Yota's EPD compoments, which are counted as part of "Android OS" and "Android System" - your biggest battery hogs. It could be one of the EPD widgets that is misbehaving, or it could be some specific combination of them, or just something out of your control.
You could try removing ALL the widgets from the rear screen from Yotahub, then restart the device, and then let it run for an hour with the screen off. Then check the detailed battery log if the device went to sleep or if it was awake. If it went to sleep, you can try adding widgets back one at a time, and then check again if the device sleeps. Basically all the widgets which update periodically hold a wake lock momentarily (time, battery, calendar, weather etc). Of course if the problem lies on Yota's EPD framework, then this wont help at all.
Jeopardy said:
I am quite confident that they will release updated Lollipop sooner or later. They don't have the resources to piss off all their customers just yet.
Your Wifi still does some scans on its own for Google's location service, even if it's not enabled. You can disable this feature in the advanced wifi settings. But that is not the cause of your battery problem. Basically your device is awake all the time, meaning something is holding a wake lock. And by something I mean one of Yota's EPD compoments, which are counted as part of "Android OS" and "Android System" - your biggest battery hogs. It could be one of the EPD widgets that is misbehaving, or it could be some specific combination of them, or just something out of your control.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agreed, I suspect the YotaFit app going bonkers despite my efforts to kill it.... or the Yotagram service, the thing is, looking at the Yota specific apps, you don't really need them, as you can flip the screen with the Yotamirror, and then use any Android app. Sure it would be nice to have notifications on the EPD, but my main focus for this phone is use in bright daylight, and long battery life, not to actually look at the thing 24x7 so I can respond to emails every 30 seconds.
At this point though I'm just trying to determine how bad the underlying hardware is. The GPS on this phone seems to a bit flaky, as does the basic reception of mobile signal. (And I'm not using a metal bumper.) So, I'm happy to flash back to KitKat 4.4.3 to try and give it the best chance..
So, any clues/links about the Yota flash tool? I've put the phone into USB debug mode, installed the flash tool on my windows 7 desktop, and installed ADB/Fastboot as well, but at this point I'm having a bit of an android driver problem, and ADB can't see the phone so that probably explains why the Flashtool says 'waiting for device' when I fire it up. I will go digging to fix that, but I assume that the Flashtool will do all the stuff like putting the phone into bootloader mode, unlock etc...
ridgemagnet said:
Agreed, I suspect the YotaFit app going bonkers despite my efforts to kill it.... or the Yotagram service, the thing is, looking at the Yota specific apps, you don't really need them, as you can flip the screen with the Yotamirror, and then use any Android app. Sure it would be nice to have notifications on the EPD, but my main focus for this phone is use in bright daylight, and long battery life, not to actually look at the thing 24x7 so I can respond to emails every 30 seconds.
At this point though I'm just trying to determine how bad the underlying hardware is. The GPS on this phone seems to a bit flaky, as does the basic reception of mobile signal. (And I'm not using a metal bumper.) So, I'm happy to flash back to KitKat 4.4.3 to try and give it the best chance..
So, any clues/links about the Yota flash tool? I've put the phone into USB debug mode, installed the flash tool on my windows 7 desktop, and installed ADB/Fastboot as well, but at this point I'm having a bit of an android driver problem, and ADB can't see the phone so that probably explains why the Flashtool says 'waiting for device' when I fire it up. I will go digging to fix that, but I assume that the Flashtool will do all the stuff like putting the phone into bootloader mode, unlock etc...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The widgets I'm running at the moment without any problems are Time, Mini Calendar, weather, battery, and communications (the small widget which shows phone calls, notifications and sms). And of course my own widget.
The best way to make sure there are no useless services running is to root the device and uninstall them completely, but that's another story.
For the flashtool to detect the device, you need to boot it into download mode manually. The easiest way is to turn off your device and plug the usb in while holding volume down -button. The screen will show "download" or something in very small white text. After that the flashtool should find the device. You probably don't have to flash the user partition (it asks for it separately), i.e. the simulated sdcard section which holds all your photos, documents and music.
Edit. And when you have kitkat installed, the first thing you might want to do is to disable automatic system updates. Otherwise it will nag you about the Lollipop update all the time.
I've been facing similar issues and am considering a downgrade when I have the time. I'm really disappointed in yota and won't be buying their next device.
I have found this thread useful, you may too.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/android/general/guide-extreme-battery-life-t3095884
thanks gents, oddly, the advice to let the phone 'calm down' seems to be working. I decided not to revert to KitKat (yet), as every day I use the phone the battery life seems to improve. Yesterday it was down to 40%, today 60% after about a days use. I'm thinking a week of running in will give it time to stabilize. I would love to root the phone but I want to use the Good app, and that doesn't run on rooted phones... (shame but I guess that's the flipside of working for a big corporate for you!)
ridgemagnet said:
thanks gents, oddly, the advice to let the phone 'calm down' seems to be working. I decided not to revert to KitKat (yet), as every day I use the phone the battery life seems to improve. Yesterday it was down to 40%, today 60% after about a days use. I'm thinking a week of running in will give it time to stabilize. I would love to root the phone but I want to use the Good app, and that doesn't run on rooted phones... (shame but I guess that's the flipside of working for a big corporate for you!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try putting the battery widget on your epd. If it shows 5 days remaining when you are above 85% and you don't use the phone, then the device works as advertised.
That Good app sounds like a real killjoy. There seems to exist some Xposed modules to disable the root check, but they seemed to be rather finicky to setup and very easy to mess up.
I was suffering from terrible battery life after the lollipop upgrade and the EPD battery widget was never showing much above 1d anymore. After much research and tinkering, it has now improved and I am seeing greater than 3d again. I think the culprits were maybe google fit tracking which I have now turned off and I also de-installed and re-installed the google play services updates which is a tip I saw in an android forum. I also over the last two days have received several yota widget updates which may have also helped. At least for now I am seeing a comfortable day's use again!
I experienced poor battery life out of blue again. I went through all the settings, cleared dalvik-cache and cache partition, tried disabling everything, but nothing helped. It only showed <1 day battery life at 100%.
But then I went to mess around in the developer settings, and when I set the animation scales from 1x to 0.25x and enabled "Force GPU rendering", the battery life returned instantly to 5 days.
Just thought I'd add this to the list of things to test out if someone's experiencing poor battery life. The forced GPU rendering might have some unexpected effects on some software rendering based games.
dont know if this will help but just seen some of the new features of android m "marshmallow" one of which is doze and there is a separate app available on play store for this. i have installed and it has helped battery life !!!
I was going through terrible battery life after Lollipop as well. Suffered, tinkered, tried various things. Eventually I just said screw it, backed everything up and factory reset it from recovery. Since then it seems like it's almost back to it's old self. Obviously having root and using some kernel control apps, greenify and some other things helps it but It will happily do at least a couple of days with little-normal usage. Still don't think it's as good as KitKat but it's not too far off. The EPD really does help spread battery out too.
I did the same thing but a 3 weeks on, the battery is as shocking as ever.
Today, on battery since 0730, now @ 1115 51% and 3hrs left!??
No obvious apps causing battery drain, just google services!
Rarelyamson said:
I did the same thing but a 3 weeks on, the battery is as shocking as ever.
Today, on battery since 0730, now @ 1115 51% and 3hrs left!??
No obvious apps causing battery drain, just google services!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have had the phone nearly a week, and these are similar figures I experience. What's the point of the epd if my battery dies by lunch!
Sent from my YD201 using Tapatalk
I think it is something with Android 5.0 that is causing the drain issues. I can go anywhere from half a day to a week with good batteyr life and then it will randomly start draining again. Some background activity seems to hold a permanent wakelock and will not let go of it. I am unable to pinpoint what app is creating the wakelock with better battery stats or wakelock detector since there isn't access to kernel wakelocks in either of the apps for our phone. A restart always fixes things though, so I have a tasker script now that lets me know when idle battery drain exceeds a threshold for too long so I know to do a restart, it's not elegant, but my battery life is exponentially better and gives me enough battery life to make it through the day without a recharge and leave the eink screen on all night as a tv remote.
I got a new phone
sportsfan986 said:
I think it is something with Android 5.0 that is causing the drain issues. I can go anywhere from half a day to a week with good batteyr life and then it will randomly start draining again. Some background activity seems to hold a permanent wakelock and will not let go of it. I am unable to pinpoint what app is creating the wakelock with better battery stats or wakelock detector since there isn't access to kernel wakelocks in either of the apps for our phone. A restart always fixes things though, so I have a tasker script now that lets me know when idle battery drain exceeds a threshold for too long so I know to do a restart, it's not elegant, but my battery life is exponentially better and gives me enough battery life to make it through the day without a recharge and leave the eink screen on all night as a tv remote.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In the end, I got a new phone after my Yotaphone decided to brick itself. Its a Zopo Speed 7, Octacore, dual SIM, nice screen, and does 4G very well in my part of the world. It is also around $200 at time of writing. Its a Chinese phone typical of the genre, Zopo seem to be moderately responsive to bugs compared with Yota... This Zopa phone is running 5.1 Android and I can tell you that Lollipop is not the problem...
That's after charging the phone and leaving it overnight, with the battery saver mode on... not too shabby. Of course it won't actually last 28 days, but this phone is nothing special and it is capable of running without all those services running that the Yota has.
The Yota spent its entire time when I had it trying to contact Moscow with that dodgy 'dictionary app'. What (honestly) is the point of the e-ink display if it doesn't save power...
If you are experiencing "always awake" and wifi always on despite your settings saying otherwise it may be worth going into your advanced wifi settings and changing "wifi frequency band" from "auto" to "2.4 GHz only. I remember reading this tip somewhere else for an Android 5.0 phone that was having battery issues similar to this. I made this change about 24 hours ago and have noticed a dramatic difference in battery drain when the screen is off. When I look at my battery stats I am no longer seeing a solid bar for both wifi and awake. Worth trying.
For what it's worth, I have had fairly light use today, some checking of emails and facebook, 40 mins or so of music via bluetooth (with screen off). Total screen on time of 35 mins. The phone has been off charge since 06:30 this morning. It is now 17:00 and is showing battery of 71% with an estimated 2d and 8h left. Better battery stats show deep sleep of 71% whereas previously it had shown awake at 100%. Far better than I had before.
stapo101 said:
If you are experiencing "always awake" and wifi always on despite your settings saying otherwise it may be worth going into your advanced wifi settings and changing "wifi frequency band" from "auto" to "2.4 GHz only. I remember reading this tip somewhere else for an Android 5.0 phone that was having battery issues similar to this. I made this change about 24 hours ago and have noticed a dramatic difference in battery drain when the screen is off. When I look at my battery stats I am no longer seeing a solid bar for both wifi and awake. Worth trying.
For what it's worth, I have had fairly light use today, some checking of emails and facebook, 40 mins or so of music via bluetooth (with screen off). Total screen on time of 35 mins. The phone has been off charge since 06:30 this morning. It is now 17:00 and is showing battery of 71% with an estimated 2d and 8h left. Better battery stats show deep sleep of 71% whereas previously it had shown awake at 100%. Far better than I had before.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried using the setting so Wifi is only on while screen is on? (Unless on charge...)
I think I found the issue, at least with my phone.
I was syncing with exchange, and there is a nasty bug with android 5.0 and exchange sync. The sync is taking forever and doesn´t sync everything. Calendar and contacts missing.
Then I removed the ActiveSync connection on my phone and set up the app Nine to sync instead.
After that I got much better battery. This may help for others as well. The phone is just hammering the exchange server all the time and this takes up a lot of power.
If you're looking here you might be struggling with terrible battery life after the mm update. The first couple of days and few complete cycles after my update, I was getting less than 3 hours sot, in less than 12 hours, whereas lollipop treated me much better, approximately 5-6 hours sot in 24 hours. Let me clear some things from the very start: I am not attempting to create perfect battery life by sacrificing radio speed, disabling wifi when asleep etc. I'd rather have lte whenever possible and I only stop the radios at night between 11pm and 6am, using the tasker-like app included with z5.
I will continue by explaining a little bit more thorough how I did my update and in next post will give the exact steps to follow so if you're in a hurry or only here to find tips on improving battery life, head there right away. Also, if anyone has other ideas on how to improve on battery life, don't be shy and chip in.
So, since this is my first unrooted android phone ever, I had to adjust a little bit. Where previously I was using a combination of apps such as tasker, secure settings, greeenify, logcat and BBS to diagnose wakelocks and the like, I found that when I first tried to improve on lollipop battery life with these tools, actually I worseend the battery situation. For instance greenify would stop apps so they would take more cpu cycles to start again, etc. The z5, as it is, it has awesome right from the shelf standby capabilities so I feel root for those reasons only is not that sought for, after all.
Marshmallow update
I installed the nordic combined fw with clean wipe of all options present in flashtool. Afterwards I started the phone and let it restore the apps via google backup. At this step you might want to get rid of unnecessary apps (I had quite a few of them). I let all the updates happen, then I headed back to the pc and sony pcc to restore my backup (I know some people recommend starting fresh with the apps but I am the kind of lazy person, and really spoiled by titanium backup, but well, since i cannot have the latter..). I specifically chose to restore the apps data.
After restore it might take a while for the phone and whatever apps you have to sync with their respective cloud and data. I would only mention that although I kept google photos for now (with no auto sync yet) I am rather using the sony memories cloud, it seems to me faster and more standby and mediaserver friendly. So I had some problems with photos but will try it again, maybe it works better in mm.
I haven't disabled a lot of the bloatware, actually I advise you to go slowly and carefully about that since in lollipop disabling some of the preinstalled apps result in random reboots.
What I did though, after the first (horrible) battery cycle was to clear all app cache: settings/storage/internal storage/cached data
I also disabled location scanning under settings/location menu
I also performed a battery re-calibration which you should do anyways once a month or so by letting the device deplete completely (1-2% really) shutdown, charge in the wall charger up to 100%, start it plugged in charger and verify that battery percentage reads 100%, then unplug.
I didn't take a screenshot of the 3 hours sot I got a few days ago, but here are some screenshots of the much improved battery life, second day of 6+ hours. Let me tell you I didn't go easy on the battery either: few hours of listening to flac from ext sdcard in poweramp or google play over apt-x bt, couple minutes of hangouts, few sms, lots of tapatalk/reddit, a bit of camera, in other words, kept radio lte almost the whole day (while at work), all with adaptive brightness at halfway mark
steps
If coming from complete firmware reflash, you really got to let the phone 'settle' ie, sync your emails, photos and what not cloud services you sync with. When mediaserver usage decreases in battery usage you should be fine for next step
Delete all apps cache
Optional, if you have root/recovery mode you might be able to delete system cache
Optional, disable location scanning
Calibrate battery (you really gotta do this periodically)
I would add, as some sort of maintenance procedure, don't let your phone become too hot as that not only drains the battery faster but can permanently damage the battery, ie reduce its life/capacity.
There are also other ideas that I am currently trying, however as I am not sure they help or even cause problems of their own, will mention them later on when I'll have tested it more thoroughly: it's about debloating, usage access and others
Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
Some apps might not very well compatible with MM and draining. After a clean flashed I managed to get a good battery but after installed all apps the battery is a bit worse now.
Same observations here. Not a quality update for the moment. Having some problems with fingerprint unlocking. With lollipop I didn't encounter this kind of problem.
nitski said:
Same observations here. Not a quality update for the moment. Having some problems with fingerprint unlocking. With lollipop I didn't encounter this kind of problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is how to improve battery thread so don't start the crap about what you don't like in MM.
I think trickle charge might be an issue for some. When it's been charging for some time and at 100% unplug and plug the charger back in a few times
Sent from my Xperia™ Z5 using Tapatalk
lol, try this way dude
problems
@sajithsajan, are you retarted? Quoting whole first post? Really?
Going to give that a try, but, what was your screen brightness
I could get five hours with the brightness slider at zero.
Pretty much useless if I'm not in dark room all day.
unfaix said:
Going to give that a try, but, what was your screen brightness
I could get five hours with the brightness slider at zero.
Pretty much useless if I'm not in dark room all day.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The post says brightness halfway brightness slider (with adaptive display).
It's been a while since this post and a couple MM builds. I think that the battery calibration is still a good procedure towards experiencing better battery life, so I'd do that every month or so. Otherwise, look for more obvious issues. Just the other day I noticed a new --and very well rated-- social app I used for a few moments then, half an hour later it didn't let go of the location, even in background, exited with back button.
Did you notice a worsening in battery life on 6.0.1?
BR4DOKYBrazil said:
Did you notice a worsening in battery life on 6.0.1?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Without having timed it precisely, my ballpark numbers put it within same previous battery performance.
IMO, z5 is good enough for light to moderate usage, even some gaming although not expert on that.
It is good also for standby time (I keep on all location scanning that you might have, google now active etc), music listening ,etc.
What depletes the battery pretty fast though are any camera-related action/video recording, hangouts videochat. The camera also overheats quite rapidly so there's that.