Database Users

[Q] Very High Power Consumption Android On HD2

Hi,
Ive recently installed Android 2.2 Froyo on an SD card on my HD2 and the battery is going down so quick... it wasnt great in Windows mobile but now I'm struggling to get it to last all day...
I'm saying to myself this cant be normal, I'm also trying a Samsung Galaxy S and the battery is so much better!!
Is there anyway I can improve the battery power on my HD2, I know in a HD2 the battery is a 1350mah and the Galaxy S is a 1500mah battery.
Should that make such a difference?
I'm considering going back to Win Mobile but dont really want to but havent got any other choice if the battery carrys on like this....
I also notice the screen and back get really quite warm... I suppose Android is making the system work harder?!?!?!

Its safe to say that you havent read any of the threads about battery life.
Before you say I did a search and didnt find anything Ive already typed in battery in search and found a bunch of threads.
Now what you need to do is find out why its running so warm.
It could be the kernal version you are using.
Ways to improve battery life are using setcpu and underclocking. A lot of members use current widget as a method to see when High drain is occuring.
In sleep mode you should be seeing less than 10ma. If you dont see less then this there is a problem.
Set current widget to 1 min intervals.
Dont use task killers they dont help anything no matter what anyone says.
Dont compare the captivate to the hd2. 2 different phones.

I am using mccm 1.5 customize, and CurrentWidget shows 5mA on standby which I think is good enough. Sometimes, it shows 60mA on standby in a while and my battery drains very fast, even I use Advanced Task Killer but it does not help. I have to reboot the phone to get it back to 5mA on standby.
Anyone has any idea of what may cause my standby power that high (60mA)?
Thanks.

hazard99 said:
Its safe to say that you havent read any of the threads about battery life.
Before you say I did a search and didnt find anything Ive already typed in battery in search and found a bunch of threads.
Now what you need to do is find out why its running so warm.
It could be the kernal version you are using.
Ways to improve battery life are using setcpu and underclocking. A lot of members use current widget as a method to see when High drain is occuring.
In sleep mode you should be seeing less than 10ma. If you dont see less then this there is a problem.
Set current widget to 1 min intervals.
Dont use task killers they dont help anything no matter what anyone says.
Dont compare the captivate to the hd2. 2 different phones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your tips for better battery life. I was curious about a few things and hope you could clarify a few things for me and some instruction or threads on how to do so. And yes I have searched, that's the first thing I always do before I do anything web based as far as positng.
1. How do you setcpu and underclocking?
2. How do you find the amount of battery that standby takes? i.e. 60mA? How do you get to that setting in android?
Thanks for your help in advance.

Setcpu is an app used to control your cpu speed.
link included
http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=394848&d=1283568967
the setcpu dev's site with complete info on how to use it.
http://www.pokedev.com/setcpu/
To check ma's use (current widget)
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=776085
long press on the desktop and apply current widget. It will ask you if you want to create a log. Create a log for 1 min intervals. Put the phone to sleep and leave it for a good 5 mins.
You can then open the log file usint astro file manager and check your drainage while sleep.
One thing I found is that If i am having high drain i turn my gps on and restart then it usually settles down and I can turn the gps off.
If you have apps that are syncing you will a higher than normal drain during those times the apps sync. if you set your apps to sync at longer intervals the amount of batter drain will be unnoticable.
I have major battery ocd. I constantly check my battery and have to force myself not to look but still use my phone as any normal person would.
I can pull more than 12 hours easy!

Thanks hazard99!
The first time I ran android I don't think I've had any battery issues and now that I'm looking at the percent on my homescreen Im beginning to feel battery OCD too. It's like I lose 1% atleast every 15 minutes when I look at my screen. But I did take and apply all the tips you told me and I do see that it only uses 5ma when screen is off. I truely don't understand. :/

Stop looking at your screen. Stop worrying. The more you look the more juice you use while the screen is on. There will be more points where the phone is off.

traithudo said:
I am using mccm 1.5 customize, and CurrentWidget shows 5mA on standby which I think is good enough. Sometimes, it shows 60mA on standby in a while and my battery drains very fast, even I use Advanced Task Killer but it does not help. I have to reboot the phone to get it back to 5mA on standby.
Anyone has any idea of what may cause my standby power that high (60mA)?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ive also been trying to investigate this, my standby drain is usually 60+ mA, and during use it jumps to the 200's, strange stuff indeed....For you to have 5mA, lol i wish that was for me too =/

otakubakaa said:
Ive also been trying to investigate this, my standby drain is usually 60+ mA, and during use it jumps to the 200's, strange stuff indeed....For you to have 5mA, lol i wish that was for me too =/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What radio and wm are you using? Do you use SetCPU?

I had high battery consumption, too. But now I found something interesting...
Due I'm not allowed to post links, yet, search for the post with topic:
[SOLUTION] Possible solution for heavy battery drainage.
With this fix: over night I only lost 20% instead of 59% of battery.

uninstall SetCPU

10507 said:
What radio and wm are you using? Do you use SetCPU?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
im using the same radio as you (2.10), energycookie rom 21916, and my setcpu is at interactive 245/729, and for sleep its at 245/384, hastarin kernal.

Use a Battdrv.dll from older HD2 ROM 1.48 Etc. I'm not sure if you recmod the module and replace the current one in Windows if you will get the same benefit as if you cooked the driver in.

i just updated my kernal to the latest zimage in mattc's froyosense's evo tree, and my standby is around 6-11 ma now, guess that solved some issues lol, anyone know whats the normal operating ma power consumption for texting?
EDIT: Now when i try to enable wifi i simply get "error", did i mess up on something? =/
EDIT: Solved above problem. WOOT!

What effects Battery the most?

Been trolling the forums, for a while, and I am wondering.. what effects battery life the most.. type of windows rom? the radio? kernal? or Android build?...
thanks guys.

Antartica or Panama? Where, when, how?
heaetman74 said:
Been trolling the forums, for a while, and I am wondering.. what effects battery life the most.. type of windows rom? the radio? kernal? or Android build?...
thanks guys.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Operating system? Screen colors? Flashlight for movies or photos?
Battery - energy loss or charge? Age - recycles from deep discharge? Plugged for longer than needed? Air temperature or silicon cased? Temperature with heavy energy drain?
Not a simple question.
Retired (medical) IT Consultant

As far as software goes, the biggest killers of battery I've noticed have been push notifications and wifi. Turning both of them off almost doubled my battery life. I now have my emails synched every 10 or 15 minutes instead.

In addition to wifi and push, a big one maybe the biggest, which is often overlooked, is screen brightness. These big giant screens burn a lot of battery. Keeping it as dim as you can stand it will actually save quite a fair share of battery

heaetman74 said:
Been trolling the forums, for a while, and I am wondering.. what effects battery life the most.. type of windows rom? the radio? kernal? or Android build?...
thanks guys.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
YOU THE USER
if you have researched and learned enough to know what needs to be done
then . . . .

huggs said:
In addition to wifi and push, a big one maybe the biggest, which is often overlooked, is screen brightness. These big giant screens burn a lot of battery. Keeping it as dim as you can stand it will actually save quite a fair share of battery
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I feel silly for not mentioning that one myself now

heres a funny thing i found, i replaced my Apacer 8GB Class 4 card with a Sony 8GB class 4 card. the phone use to hang with the apacer card.
the thing is, ever since i´ve made the change, the phone sucks up twice as much power.

Theres great ways to make your battery last here too:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=827762
Especially #8
Calibrating Android's battery read will allow Android to fully charge your battery, and if you have battery profiles in setcpu, then the app will scale your processor speed by a more accurate reading, giving you longer battery life. I did it on the couple of builds I use most, and it really does make a difference
And dont feel silly john, I sometimes take my enormous screen for granted too
Edit: hmmm maybe my class 2 is why i get good battery life, maybe a slower r/w speed sucks less juice?

well, i know all of the normal tricks.. like screen brightness, wifi off, email push...
i am just looking for a windows rom, a radio, and an android rom, to get the best battery life...
thanks again guys.

Have a look at my signature.
Data enabled, push every hour only 5mA in standby.
If it is in airplane mode it only uses 2mA most of the time. That's quiet good

From what I can tell, the single most important factor for better battery life is using an auto boot app, such as Exceller's, to boot into Android soon as possible. I set mine to auto boot in 3sec. If you let WM/Sense boot fully, you will experience higher than normal battery drain; around 60-70 mA drain in standby. Also, try installing Advanced Configuration Tool in WM and enable all options under Power Management. Have tried these techniques with pretty much every WM Rom and Android combo and average around 3-9 mA draw in standby with wifi, sync, gps and data all enabled. This translates to about a day and a half of moderate use for me. Also, remember that Sense builds tend to use slightly more battery than non-sense builds.

This method really works! The simplest way!
reocej said:
From what I can tell, the single most important factor for better battery life is using an auto boot app, such as Exceller's, to boot into Android soon as possible. I set mine to auto boot in 3sec (have asked for and If you let WM/Sense boot fully, you will experience higher than normal battery drain. Also, try installing Advanced Configuration Tool in WM and enable all options under Power Management. Have tried these techniques with pretty much every WM Rom and Android combo and average around 3-9 mA draw in standby with wifi, sync, gps and data all enabled. This translates to about a day and a half of moderate use for me. Also, remember that Sense builds tend to use slightly more battery than non-sense builds.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have trying different things for some times as why my HD2 was always 60mA+ power drain but some others reported as low as 5mA in standby mode. I tried different builds and different settings but none worked. I almost want to flash to change my stock rom or give up the idea of using Android.
Thanks to you! Follow your way, I now only 9mA with my stock rom. A considerable improvement in battery standby.
Thank you very much.

loonglsk said:
I have trying different things for some times as why my HD2 was always 60mA+ power drain but some others reported as low as 5mA in standby mode. I tried different builds and different settings but none worked. I almost want to flash to change my stock rom or give up the idea of using Android.
Thanks to you! Follow your way, I now only 9mA with my stock rom. A considerable improvement in battery standby.
Thank you very much.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad I could help. Happy Androiding!

my phone tells me power in mV how does this equate to mA?

Droski said:
my phone tells me power in mV how does this equate to mA?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It doesn't really, mV is a measure of state (what condition your battery is in), mA is a measure of change (how much power is currently leaving/entering your battery).
Download current widget, free from market, to track the current (= in mA)

loonglsk said:
I have trying different things for some times as why my HD2 was always 60mA+ power drain but some others reported as low as 5mA in standby mode. I tried different builds and different settings but none worked. I almost want to flash to change my stock rom or give up the idea of using Android.
Thanks to you! Follow your way, I now only 9mA with my stock rom. A considerable improvement in battery standby.
Thank you very much.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is an application u see HD2 Android power drain in standby-mode?

PeeHoo said:
What is an application u see HD2 Android power drain in standby-mode?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Current Widget. Set it to update every 60 secs, and then leave your screen off for more than 60 secs, turn the screen back on, and check the widget.
Battery drain with screen off should be somewhere between 5-9 mA

Nice tips here guys...
My battery meter in the status bar looks about 60-70% full, but battery widgets say i have about 50%.
Does this mean that I need to calibrate?
I tried to delete the battery stats with Droid Explorer but it seems to be in read only? (It doesnt do anything when i click delete).
I guess I'll set up ADB and delete that way.
Also I seem to get better battery without LED me know, (why do i need this?)
Runnig MDJ revolution, 2.08.50 radio, stock WM ROM.

GeoMil said:
Nice tips here guys...
My battery meter in the status bar looks about 60-70% full, but battery widgets say i have about 50%.
Does this mean that I need to calibrate?
I tried to delete the battery stats with Droid Explorer but it seems to be in read only? (It doesnt do anything when i click delete).
I guess I'll set up ADB and delete that way.
Also I seem to get better battery without LED me know, (why do i need this?)
Runnig MDJ revolution, 2.08.50 radio, stock WM ROM.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just run terminal emulator on your phone and type:
su
rm /data/system/batterystats.bin

oh, you can do this on the phone.
Thanks bro!
I hope to see improvements as my theory that the status bar battery reading vs widget battery reading being so different = it needs calibration.
Edit
I am now using Exceller's auto boot, and the my draw peaks are waaay lower, but the idle has gone up! (60-80 now...)

[Tips & Tricks & Discussion] Battery Calibration/Improving Battery life

Battery Calibration/Improving Battery life
Requirements:
Device needs to be rooted "Obviously".
Need to have Rom Tool Box Lite or Rom Tool Box Pro.
Some Basic Knowledge on how to use the app.
Note: Turn off Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, GPS, and Auto-sync if they are not in use. Hold down the notifications bar to disable them and activate the Power Saving mode which will make the device conserve energy under low battery state.
Battery Calibration Procedure.
1. Use your phone until the phone battery drains out completely and device gets switched off
2. Switch on the Device to make sure battery really is 0%.
3. Now plug in charger (Device turned off, Dont turn on the device)& leave it for charging until it reaches 100%
4. When the battery is full, switch on the phone, unplug the charger & check if the battery drops by 1 or 2% immediately.
5. If you notice battery drops immediately plug in charger once more (while the phone is on) & let it charge completely.
6. Once charging to 100% is done, don't disconnect the charger, open your root explorer, Provice RW permissions.
7.Search for 'DATA' Folder then 'SYSTEM' Folder.
8.In the 'System' folder you will find 'batterystats.bin' delete this file.
9.Exit Root Explorer and Use your phone normally unless it completly drains the battery(Dont connect your charger)
10.Power On your device and charge your device untill it reached 100%
11.Now you should enjoy the Samsung long Battery Life!!
Note: These methods are not permanent this worked for me so sharing with you.
Greenify your Apps:
NEW: Non-root working mode is now supported in 2.0+, Greenify is a convenient utility that will consequently hibernate battery hoarding applications that wait out of sight after you're done utilizing them.
Google Playstore & Thread
Titanium Backup:
Great battery life, wonderful execution and cool customization— we have seen one or more applications for these things. Presently we should see an alternate must have and a standout amongst the most evaluated applications for established Android gadgets. On the off chance that you got root benefits on your gadget, Titanium Backup is an exceptionally suggested application for you. You may discover various reinforcement applications at the Google Play Store, however none of them does the employment so splendidly and pleasantly.
Google playstore

The KERNEL can do some important things to help with battery saving as it is the controller of all things working in your phone:
1. Underclocking - if you feel your phone is fast enough, go ahead and lower the maximum frequency of your CPU, it will save power as the faster the CPU goes, the more energy it uses.
2. Undervolting - it's more complicated; every CPU requires certain amount of supplied voltage to run and the amount increases with the speed of CPU (clock frequency). For example 200Mhz requires only 0.9V while 1600Mhz requires 1.25V by default. The thing is, the higher the voltage, the higher the heat and of course power consumption. So the best way to lower it is to lower voltage - Samsung had to set voltage at the high enough level that every CPU they produce would work correctly but every CPU is different and some of them allow for lowering voltage and still remaining fully stable thus using less power to do the same work. Typically you can save about 0.05V but some CPU will allow as much as 0.1V to be saved. The same really goes for our GPU part, it can be undervolted as well. There are other parts in our phone that can be undervolted, like memory or controllers of various part but I have found (well in my phone) that saving were very small and caused instability so I would not recommend playing with them. We could think about undervolting our display as it is the biggest consumer of energy in our phone but actually we are doing it all the time The voltage supplied to the screen decides its brightness so if we were to lower the voltage it would just get dimmer
3. There are small savings to be had in various other parts controlled by the kernel:
- first and second thing are tied with SDcard - using it carries high power requirements - the less we use it, the better. Now we can't reduce to completely as all our data, apps and whole system is on it but we can reduce it's use by setting various caches.
a) read cache for internal and external SD combined with scheduler that minimizes reads and writes - so far the best scheduler created specifically for mobile SD use is FIOPS, so using that with a large buffer (maximum of 4096) is actually the best from energy standpoint.
b) system swap space - some kernels allow for creating a very specific kind of swap space, Android will use it once the free memory falls below certain point. Normally this swap space would be placed on SDcard but in this case it's inside a specific region of RAM. Why it is created like this? Because it can be easily compressed to keep more data, so basically we are using Android mechanisms and compressing memory so we can run more apps and keep them in physical RAM That means they are accessible faster than if we were to read them from SDcard and they use less power. Compressing and decompressing data as they go in and out of swap space is still far less energy consuming process then reading them from SDcard.
- third is governor configuration - governor is a system service that decides at what frequency should the CPU be working at every moment and how much cores should be enabled - this of course has great impact on energy consumption and on the smoothness of our experience with our phone. There are two schools of setting up governor and they base their decisions on two premises:
a) sharply increase CPU speed to get the work done fast and sharply decrease speed once it's not needed.
b) slowly increase speed and only so much to do what must be don then slowly decrease speed once you are done because you may have to do something again in a moment
There are pros and cons of both ways - way A means jumping to high frequency for a short time but high frequency uses comparatively large amount of energy, way B means slow increase but also means remaining in intermediate states for longer actually using energy for longer. I don't have any way to actually measure the resulting energy consumption but way A has a distinct advantage of creating much smoother experience so I use that myself.
- fourth is hotplug configuration - our CPU can dynamically enable and disable additional cores - the process is called hotplugging. Some governors are created specifically for controlling this process, the best, as far as I have tested, in this is Lulzactiveq. Hotplugging has to be wise as to the IF and WHEN to enable and disable additional cores, it measures how many "packets" of data are in queue to be processed and based on short history anticipates increase and decrease of workload.
All those interesting options are configured in scripts created for main contemporary kernels: Nadia, Devil and Agni and available HERE.
Latest OC / UV Scripts for Devil / Agni and Nadia Kernels for Note 2 are HERE
Guide to EXT4 to F2FS migration for Note 2 is HERE
CourtesyMat9V

Reserverd

very useful info , thanks :good:

rraaka said:
very useful info , thanks :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your welcome :good:

Very briefly stated.
Thanks for sharing
I read all your posts, This will help me in my next configuration for Emotion V7, Nadia with mat's script.
Now on Emotion V6 ....AGNi Pure Stock v4.2.2

yogi909 said:
Very briefly stated.
Thanks for sharing
I read all your posts, This will help me in my next configuration for Emotion V7, Nadia with mat's script.
Now on Emotion V6 ....AGNi Pure Stock v4.2.2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad you liked it.

The android system, unlike other OS's actually displays the battery reading from a written data config, known as battery stats in general. While there is, in perception no disadvantage to this method of reporting the average remaining battery life, it isn't the actual battery life you are getting, but the percentage read from your daily usage and then sends the information to the OS for displaying the battery life. Due to this, you can have the percentage misreported, so it is suggested to factory reset every 6 months on stock unrooted and if rooted wipe battery stats using rom toolbox free/pro every 2 weeks to ensure correct reporting of your battery life.
Note - This won't increase battery life, but will ensure correct reporting of battery percentage, which gets messed up quite quickly on custom roms(for some unknow reason).
Undervolting can cause battery drain or better battery life depending on your configurations, if you have the CPU set to running high many of the times(like from a governor or background apps that need regular wakelocks for syncing content) it will slow down the ramping up of frequencies during deep sleep(no effect when screen on) and thus it will hold a longer wakelock for the purpose, so undervolt carefully depending on your usage - mild to mid(medium to high undervolt), mid to high(low to medium undervolt), heavy(low to no undervolt).
Different governors have different scaling methods for CPU, thus will give better or worse battery life depending on your config and usage. A governor ramping up faster and scaling down slower will give better battery life in scenario of heavy usage because the device can go to deep sleep state faster and perform background syncs in an instant; while someone with low to mid(or a bit high also) would like to have a governor that ramps up slower and scales down slowly too so as to complete the syncing of files and media scan(if running) and make the device perform smoother and go into deep-sleep and remain in the state for longer times(though going to DS mode will be a bit slower than a fast downscaling governor) and will occasionally wake up for background syncs, but those will be longer, but won't have much effect on battery life because of lower frequencies being used and syncing complete before high frequency threshold is reached.
Depending on what a user needs for his daily usage it is a good idea to keep the rest of apps(preferably facebook, musixmatch, instagram and shazam) hibernated using something like greenify(which now supports auto-hibernation without root in the beta versions). Auto sync should only be enabled for apps that need it, like E-Mail, Google+, Gmail etc.and rest should be set onto manual sync.
Samsung has a habit of throwing in a lot of features onto their device, so keeping motions enabled, which you don't even use, except for a show-off, is a bad idea because it will drain battery. Exploring the settings menu to disable unneeded things can pay-off as a positive fruit for patience.
Keeping the storage clean is also a good way. A corrupted or highly filled up storage requires more passes to be read and thus keeps the media scanner process running for longer, which puts a strain on the battery life. Also, android OS is based of the 32-bit kernel of linux(for now, 64-bit is planned to be introduced after some time), so the media scanner has to look for data linearly in the storage blocks on the internal and external SD, unlike 64-bit where the data is arranged into random blocks which are then brought together as one and the media scanner can be informed of the address of the blocks due to more threads allowed to be run for same process and also a higher memory bandwidth allocated to each process so as to make it perform faster. Due to this reason, the media scanned isn't informed of all the addresses on the time of data writing and thus has to scan linearly looking for bits of data. So keep the storage clean and minimal. Cloud is a good way if you have decent internet and won't need access to the files stored there in regular period of times.
If using a custom rom make sure that it either comes with the modem for your region or flash the modem of your region after that, so as to ensure better signal stability and thus better lasting battery life. A correct modem can give more dBm of signal at the same place as compared to a wrong one.
A good way to have stable battery life is to enable power saving mode in areas with low signal and when on low battery life only, keep it disabled otherwise or it will slow down the race-to-idle for Deep sleep mode and hence cause a bit more battery drain just before deep-sleep state.
Having location services enabled all the time isn't a good idea either, use it only when needed and keep GPS off otherwise. Samsung allows toggling of most things from notification panel so use it.
Smart stay, smart pause, smart scroll all use the front camera for detection, which requires high voltage for operation(separate from CPU, uncontrollable by software) so keep them off unless needed.
Make sure to keep your device clean. How does this affect battery life? Dust and other things when collected around pins, sockets and connectors prevent efficient passing of electricity and thus forces the device to demand more energy, around half of which is taken away by these. Even metallic dust can have adverse effect due to it making the transfer more rapid and forcing the battery to supply the power, which is most probably wasted.
Automatic brightness is good during daytime, but useless during late evening and night, because brightness level doesn't need to be changed and it keeps the light sensor activated. Disable it after 7 Pm(you can also set up tasker or some other automation tool for this).
An Odexed rom provides more battery life as compared to deodexed, but at the cost of available customization as no mods will work and will instead crash the file related to them. Choose your side wisely and patiently.
If you're going to use some app, check if it uses GCM for providing notifications(usually google search at your service), if not look for an alternative which does. GCM doesn't even use marginal amount of battery and is more efficient in providing the notifications at time and also doesn't need a persistent notification.
Check for wakelocks thoroughly and remove the misbehaving apps or hibernate them if you need them on your device. Also, be sure to update the apps for receiving any fixes and optimizations, which can sometimes also decrease the required wakelock frequency for an app and thus preserve battery life.
Don't keep too much of auto updating widgets on homescreen, these only serve to drain the battery further by auto syncing.
if rooted, use Xposed and boot-manager to disable unneeded apps at boot time and thus preserve battery and time required for full boot-up.
If on a custom kernel use DAC direct(if available) for sounds. This bypasses the output mixer and thus preserves a little bit of battery required to produce and refine the sounds, instead utilize 128x oversampling and FLL tuning for an even better quality.
Don't reboot on a regular basis unless needed, this will eat up battery life quicker.
Don't use any task killer( a long debate on uselessness of those can be found on many sites, with a simple google search), the Android system's LMK is itself more than enough.
Be sure to research carefully on what you really need and what you don't and then use it. Don't go on downloading useless things which you'll delete later on because it creates a small entry in /data/data which gets scanned by media scanner due to being present in its path and thus will make the process longer and more battery hungry.
Some custom kernels allow for controlling deep sleep type. Usually these types are already defined in the kernel tweaking app itself. A person with heavy usage should use the IDLE deep sleep more so the device is able to wake up quickly and doesn't drain much battery in case of many wakelocks. Similarly a light user will benefit with AFTR+LPA due to CPU deep sleep, but this isn't advised for medium to heavy usage(use IDLE+LPA instead) because the wakelocks require a high power to even wake up the device, which will drain more battery if you use your mobile more, because many apps will try to acquire a partial/complete wakelock.
I know this is quite long, but read through carefully and you'll surely get better battery life.
Source : Experience and Google groups

Good knowledge
Thanx

cartmanez said:
Good knowledge
Thanx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
People are still spreading the batterystats.bin myth? *facepalm*
This has been totally and utterly disproven many, many times, including by core Android developer
So delete away. It doesn't calibrate or improve your battery life though.

I cannot study myself all technically like you what you mentioned in "[Experience][Share]My Usage and Testing of Custom kernels for Touchwiz Kitkat".
But above is well informative and now i get why i was getting worse battery life & longer wakelock by OC and UV with selective governer.
By testing different setting in AgniPureStock 4.2.2 today i reach 25 hr + battery life with my moderate usage.
I am sure above valued information, i will get most out of my battery.
Thank you very much KNIGHT97 for sharing.

aukhan, Hi mate, do i need to install greenify too?

botski said:
aukhan, Hi mate, do i need to install greenify too?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

aukhan said:
Yes
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if i use greenify i need to install xposed framework too?

botski said:
if i use greenify i need to install xposed framework too?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Xposed is optional. It is only for the experimental features. However, the developer has got 1 or 2 of those working without Xposed in the latest beta(you'll need to join the greenify G+ community for getting the beta, though)
Sent from my RPG with auto targeting

非常有用的信息，谢谢 ：好：

thanks for the info man.....its very helpful
aukhan said:
The KERNEL can do some important things to help with battery saving as it is the controller of all things working in your phone:
1. Underclocking - if you feel your phone is fast enough, go ahead and lower the maximum frequency of your CPU, it will save power as the faster the CPU goes, the more energy it uses.
2. Undervolting - it's more complicated; every CPU requires certain amount of supplied voltage to run and the amount increases with the speed of CPU (clock frequency). For example 200Mhz requires only 0.9V while 1600Mhz requires 1.25V by default. The thing is, the higher the voltage, the higher the heat and of course power consumption. So the best way to lower it is to lower voltage - Samsung had to set voltage at the high enough level that every CPU they produce would work correctly but every CPU is different and some of them allow for lowering voltage and still remaining fully stable thus using less power to do the same work. Typically you can save about 0.05V but some CPU will allow as much as 0.1V to be saved. The same really goes for our GPU part, it can be undervolted as well. There are other parts in our phone that can be undervolted, like memory or controllers of various part but I have found (well in my phone) that saving were very small and caused instability so I would not recommend playing with them. We could think about undervolting our display as it is the biggest consumer of energy in our phone but actually we are doing it all the time The voltage supplied to the screen decides its brightness so if we were to lower the voltage it would just get dimmer
3. There are small savings to be had in various other parts controlled by the kernel:
- first and second thing are tied with SDcard - using it carries high power requirements - the less we use it, the better. Now we can't reduce to completely as all our data, apps and whole system is on it but we can reduce it's use by setting various caches.
a) read cache for internal and external SD combined with scheduler that minimizes reads and writes - so far the best scheduler created specifically for mobile SD use is FIOPS, so using that with a large buffer (maximum of 4096) is actually the best from energy standpoint.
b) system swap space - some kernels allow for creating a very specific kind of swap space, Android will use it once the free memory falls below certain point. Normally this swap space would be placed on SDcard but in this case it's inside a specific region of RAM. Why it is created like this? Because it can be easily compressed to keep more data, so basically we are using Android mechanisms and compressing memory so we can run more apps and keep them in physical RAM That means they are accessible faster than if we were to read them from SDcard and they use less power. Compressing and decompressing data as they go in and out of swap space is still far less energy consuming process then reading them from SDcard.
- third is governor configuration - governor is a system service that decides at what frequency should the CPU be working at every moment and how much cores should be enabled - this of course has great impact on energy consumption and on the smoothness of our experience with our phone. There are two schools of setting up governor and they base their decisions on two premises:
a) sharply increase CPU speed to get the work done fast and sharply decrease speed once it's not needed.
b) slowly increase speed and only so much to do what must be don then slowly decrease speed once you are done because you may have to do something again in a moment
There are pros and cons of both ways - way A means jumping to high frequency for a short time but high frequency uses comparatively large amount of energy, way B means slow increase but also means remaining in intermediate states for longer actually using energy for longer. I don't have any way to actually measure the resulting energy consumption but way A has a distinct advantage of creating much smoother experience so I use that myself.
- fourth is hotplug configuration - our CPU can dynamically enable and disable additional cores - the process is called hotplugging. Some governors are created specifically for controlling this process, the best, as far as I have tested, in this is Lulzactiveq. Hotplugging has to be wise as to the IF and WHEN to enable and disable additional cores, it measures how many "packets" of data are in queue to be processed and based on short history anticipates increase and decrease of workload.
All those interesting options are configured in scripts created for main contemporary kernels: Nadia, Devil and Agni and available HERE.
Latest OC / UV Scripts for Devil / Agni and Nadia Kernels for Note 2 are HERE
Guide to EXT4 to F2FS migration for Note 2 is HERE
CourtesyMat9V
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks man....you rock:good::good:

What about using Juice Defender (available in play store)? I used the basic one first and then ended up buying ultimate because I saw good results. Now the location (using cell tower) based WiFi enable/disable extends my battery life significantly.
The is one of the first apps I install once I feel a new flash is stable.

If you have the Samsung "Toolbox" utility, that floats a button on the screen to access your choice of five apps from anywhere - turn it off. It causes the "security storage" process to peg at 20% all the time the screen is on if "Toolbox" is enabled. When "Toolbox" is disabled, "security storage" process drops to a couple of percent when the device is idle. There's quite a saving on battery drain.

Battery calibration
I have a rooted Nook HD+ running Android 7.1 and I decided to calibrate its battery.
I ran it down to zero as recommended then attached it to the mains.
All I have had for several hours is a black screen with just the charging symbol (battery with lightning inside it). Nothing else, no progress bar, no charge %, nothing Androidy.
Is this as it should be and should I just wait for several more hours or is there something wrong?
Many thanks.

[Guide] Optimizing Battery Life

Hey Guys, Kyuubi10 back again with a quick guide on improving the battery life of the HTC One M8.
Let's be honest, this phone is getting quite old now. You can already start to feel it lagging, and slowing down. And the battery doesn't last as much as it once used to.
But don't give up hope...your M8 isn't dead yet, and with some good management it can even rival 2016 flagships.
Let's begin with Marshmallow...
If you have not updated your M8 to Android 6.0 yet, WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR?
Marshmallow is the best version of Android yet, the efficiency of Lollipop with the Stability of KitKat, and a very fresh take on Battery saving!
Reasons why you should update ASAP:
1 - Lollipop's memory leaks 99% fixed (Don't want to say 100% due to the possibility of some existing out of my limited knowledge, but for all intents and purposes there are no more memory leaks.) This is very important, because the memory leaks were both draining battery life, and slowing down the device...which in turn keeps the screen on longer and wastes even more battery.
2 - Doze!!! It's the latest battery saving feature to be added to Android, and it's basically a SUPER idle state, where the phone if left untouched with screen off for long periods of time will not waste any battery whatsoever! I tested this when going to sleep, phone was in airplane mode, battery saver turned on, screen brightness at minimum...I left it at 100% charge, I woke up it was still at 100%. With airplane mode off, and battery saver turned off the phone lost only 3% battery overnight.
This being said, true battery saving is measured while using the phone right?
It's not about how long it can last without being used, but how long it can last while being used.
But what if you already are on Marshmallow, and your battery life is still not cutting it?
The following solutions are organized from simpler to more complex.
1 - Follow this official HTC guide: Tips for extending battery life. It provides tips on reducing screen brightness, keeping connections off when you're not using them (Wi-Fi, Data, BT, GPS, NFC etc...), lowering volume and vibration strength and using power saver mode.
While their advice is quite obvious stuff, and most of you probably do it anyways, I would like to stress the use of power saver mode when you are out and about away from a convenient power source. Doesn't matter if your battery is at 90%, turn PS mode on, you will barely even feel a difference, but your battery will last you much more than before!
2 - Buy yourself a smartwatch. While it may seem counter-productive to keep Bluetooth on constantly to keep connected to the watch, it actually improves battery life by helping you avoid turning on your phone's screen. At the end of the day the battery saving that comes from it may be equivalent to the drain caused by bluetooth being on, or even greater than the drain. Thus effectively saving you battery life, and being convenient while doing it.
3 - Here comes the big one...ROOT your device and install a custom ROM and Kernel. Just by installing an optimized ROM and optimized Kernel you will get battery savings + better performance. Often you will also have settings you can tweak to optimize battery savings at the cost of performance or vice versa. And with a custom Kernel you can choose one with battery saving CPU governors.
4 - CPU Governors. CPUs, just after your screen, is the second most battery consuming hardware part in your device. Especially since it is on most of the time. Choosing a governor that can make it's job more efficient can save you bucket loads of battery.
The most common one for battery life is called "Conservative", and it will provide you with considerable battery life at the cost of performance. But if you want both good performance and good battery life then you are probably looking for a governor which employs the "Race to Idle" ideology. (If you don't know what it is, do a quick google, it's easy to understand.)
A good option I like to recommend is Wheatley, but if your kernel choice lacks it then interactive will be good enough...but you will have to tweak it's settings yourself to make it most efficient. Couple months ago I created this guide which you may find helpful when tweaking the interactive governor.
5 - Since we have spoken about Rooting then let's start adding some ROOT apps to the mix. Greenify would be my first recommendation.
For 2 main reasons... 1, It helps you stop annoying, battery draining apps which keep themselves running in the background. 2, It's latest versions have included a feature where you can set Doze to start sooner than default. Thus allowing you to reap Doze's benefits earlier and for longer.
Talking about the annoying apps, there's one in particular which comes to mind....Facebook.
Personally, while I don't like it's battery draining, I also don't want to uninstall it...since it's quite useful. Thus in Greenify I found my answer!
6 - Last but not least, if you are noticing unusual battery drainage, but you can't find which app is causing it (or may even be a system app), or if you notice that Doze is not having any effect... it might mean that a wakelock is not letting your device idle for long enough for Doze to start.
For this you will need an app called "Wakelock Detector". Charge your phone to around 80-100% and place it on a desk and let it idle for a couple hours (e.g. When you are asleep). When you are back check what WD found, and it might surprise you. (I found an app called HTC Mode which was keeping my device awake and preventing Doze from starting.)
Another advantage of this app is that once you find the wakelock it links you to Greenify through which you can put that specific app to sleep. Thus preventing it from setting the wakelock again.
If you follow all these steps, you should be able to feel the considerable difference in battery life. Reminding you why you fell in love with this device
I hope I have been of help, I noticed that there weren't any Battery Guides specifically made for the M8, so I thought I would leave one here in case anyone is looking for one!
If I have helped you make sure to hit that :good: button, I will greatly appreciate it, and you will be helping the community find this guide more easily.
Thanks for reading! Enjoy your longer lasting M8!

Thank you for the Info! Before marshmallow I used "app ops" but this doesn't work on Android M. Because of the app wakelock detector I removed the messenger app from facebook. It drained my battery. Thank you.
Sent from my htc_m8 using XDA-Developers mobile app

adgadg15 said:
Thank you for the Info! Before marshmallow I used "app ops" but this doesn't work on Android M. Because of the app wakelock detector I removed the messenger app from facebook. It drained my battery. Thank you.
Sent from my htc_m8 using XDA-Developers mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
App ops is good for permissions, and stopping an app from connecting to the internet. Android M already has a permissions feature natively included.
What you want is to stop it from running in the background.
While you can uninstall it (and probably find another app which you can use facebook messenger in. e.g. Disa), I would personally recommend you simply use greenify to put it to sleep.
All official facebook apps are huge battery drainers, but greenify will keep them in check, so that you don't have to use another app with less functionality.
Obviously I am not forcing you lol, but it is my recommendation.

[Guide] Battery Tweaking – When squeezing battery is not enough!! - Tips

Hello, taken that I came from a mammoth battery of 6000 mA of the Ulefone Power, the 3000 mA of the ZTE Axon 7 just fails short to lasting me a day.
I felt in love with the screen of the Axon 7, just to find is the highest ranking sucker for battery, which makes me have to set it black and white and dim it…. This really sucks. ;-(
I have excellent sleeping battery savings 0 to 1% using the wakelock software, but is just when I turn on -> the screen starts draining the battery quick!.
I have installed 341 user apps and 163 system apps (I debloated heavily the phone, stock launcher, gmail, photo)…. Please notice that I have paid for the PRO versions off all the software shown here. Please respect the developers and show support by buying software that help us improve our day by day usage of the Phone.
By the way I have a A2017G with a ZTE A2017GV1.0.0B03 with rooted phone + locked boot loader
I atached a file to be opened with “My App List” which is a free Google Play app so you can download all the files I mention in the thread that belong to Google Play. The apps missing are Xposed files and you have to find them in the repository - > Xposed modules will be identified with (X). Some of the titles are in Spanish (I am a Spaniard) so I have provided a screen capture so you can identify the apps icon in Google play or use “My App List”.
I will not provide the configurations, at this point, per app (just a short description)…. Maybe we can do that in another thread to define optimum performance of the Axon 7 battery once we filter out which apps we shall use
My idea is that people share their 5 cents of which apps/tricks they use for battery savings so we could create an “optimal configuration” with the recommended settings.

[No message]

Phone Signal (2g/3g/4g) + Wifi
1. Intelli3G (X) : Switch to 2g when phone off, turn off data when Wifi connected
2. PNF Root: Changes the pulse interval of the Cellphone and the Wifi
3. Auto Pilot: If phone signal drops bellow a certain value then the phone goes into airplane mode and checks every xminutes for good signal, instead of pinning all the time
4. Gestor de red wifi: Uses gsm towers to localize the wifi hot spots for the network you connect to. If you are in an area where you do not have a network it will disconnect Wifi. Good option if you forget, like me, to turn off the Wifi when I leave home
CPU / System Tweaks
1. BootManager (X): Turn Off apps in the StartUp list
2. Auto Start Manager: Turn off apps in any event (aka if you turn the GPS on I do not want Google Maps to go on until I click it, etc)
3. CPU Turner: change governors / CPU speed in per profile configuration
4. Smart Booster Pro (X) : Control RAM and close apps as needed
5. HEBF Optimizer: Kernel Optimizer, FStrim,Zipalingn, Battery Savings, etc..
Wakelock / Sleep
1. DS Ahorro de Bateria (X): Deep sleep when screen off and control how often it wakes to ping Email/Whatsapp, etc..
2. Force Doze: Force doze right away after screen off
3. Amplify: Turn off wakelocks or control pulse
4. Greenify (X): Hibernate apps
5. No Wakelocks: Block all wakelocks per app, useful for killing wakelock of games or non notification apps, for example.
6. Power Nap: Stop wakelocks/services/alarms from waking the phone during standby
7. XDA forum thread: [Guide]0%[0,0%/h] Idle Battery Drain on Stock Rom (Xposed & Amplify Required!) from Celestial Fury . This is the BIBLE of wakelock management!!
8. Doze: Prevent apps from using cell or wifi internet connection when in sleep mode.
Screen Savers
1. Color Changer: Set the screen Black and White. It is the only app that I have found that allows setting a widget to on/off both in the launcher and in the pull down notification menu.
2. Pixoff Battery Saver: Huge battery saver – Turn off (a.k.a black) leds of a pixel so you save battery, I can achieve 50% savings with acceptable resolution. You can generate also your own pattern.
3. Screen Filter: Filter to dim the screen
4. Screen Saver: Black
5. Any App that I can set black theme
6. Substratum: Theming app, I use Dark themes (paid for them): Domination / Inversion UI/ Swift Black
7. Boot Animation: Change your Boot animation to a dark one
8. TeamBlack: Change to black multiple apps: Whatsapp, Tapatalk,Playstore,Keep, etc..
9. GravityBox: Set swipe the notification bar on, so you swipe your finger left and right to quickly change the DIM.
Battery Checkers and Wakelock Analizers
1. Wackelock Detector : Wackelocks / Greenify apps
2. GSAM Battery Monitor: Wakelocks / Plot
3. BetterBatteryStats: Wakelocks / Plot
Miscellaneous
1. Root Toolbox Lite: Clean Dalvink / Cache after TRWP .zip installation
2. Prevent Running: App will only execute if on intentionally clicked
3. Battery Calibration: After each rom installation, reach 100% charge and erase Battery_Stats
4. Battery Draining: After calibration, a quick cycle of discharge to 0%.

[No message]

WoW! @j77moduss you've done a great work here. One petition, please add links to the apps and to that Bible guide for wakelock management.
Well I did this:
1. Install a debloated ROM and my list of apps. I have about 190 apps.
2. Use Amplify to detect and limit wakelocks.
At this point the deep sleep is almost nothing so I did not focus on wireless signal optimization. It wouldn't bring any significant juice.
3. Find a good CPU and I/O governor/scheduler. I am using ATK Balanced Zhana profile for the Interactive governor, initially designed for the One Plus 3 and working excellent on our Axon 7. This balanced profile can increase the SOT to 7-10 hours without any lack of performance. There are more aggressive profiles such as X.A.N.A. for ramping up and down the cores, able to provide up to 14h of SOT. But the lag and the jittering when scrolling is very annoying when using an extreme battery saver CPU profile. However those profiles are there just in case. In a charging emergency they could be very useful. Kernel Adiutor is my favorite app for Kernel tuning, and it is compatible with our stock kernel.
I am happy with the current setup. I am benchmarking (Using BetterBatteryStats) the current battery performance with different profiles. I am planning to install Naptime or ForceDoze (Naptime seems to be better, What do you think?), however I do not use much the Doze mode except at night. While at work I need to receive emails, messages, etc, while driving I use Spotify and At home I often browse internet when I am not playing with it. And again, The battery problem is more related to the screen and CPU than any other subsystem of the device after working out the software wakelocks.
Saludos

100 % stock here, no debloated, no unlocked bootloader, nothing. Just using out of the box.
5:35 hours SOT is a fantastic battery performance.
Go thru 25 apps installs, unlock bootloader, etc etc for let's see... +1:30 Hs of SOT ? Really worth the pay and time spend in this?
I am missing something here?
Sorry but is a honest question, not trolling at all.
Enviado desde mi ZTE A2017U mediante Tapatalk

Altomugriento said:
100 % stock here, no debloated, no unlocked bootloader, nothing. Just using out of the box.
5:35 hours SOT is a fantastic battery performance.
Go thru 25 apps installs, unlock bootloader, etc etc for let's see... +1:30 Hs of SOT ? Really worth the pay and time spend in this?
I am missing something here?
Sorry but is a honest question, not trolling at all.
Enviado desde mi ZTE A2017U mediante Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It all depends on the mix of apps you use. There are some apps that are not well polished and they have too many wakelocks, or incompatibilities with some combinations creating too much battery drain. When you install more than 150 apps and you use more than 4 or 5 social apps along the day you begin noticing a huge reduction in your battery. Not to mention Spotify, Google app, Google fit, etc. Well know for keeping your phone from going to a low power mode.
As I said before, the culprit of all this problem is basically 3:
1. Wakelocks: avoid your device to enter into low power mode, this makes your phone to waste too much battery at night or when you are not using it for some minutes.
2. CPU throttle configuration: Default governors and schedulers are usually not tuned. The manufacturers do not pay special attention to this and it is critical for having a smooth device with good battery. The ramp up and down parameters are critical here. A good profile can provide you more than 10 hours SOT without any lack of performance. Sincerely, ZTE should pay attention to this since the hardware is much more powerful than just the default 5 or 6 hours of SOT.
3. AMOLED screens are very good at saving power, and if you have your theme configured in black then the screen can contribute a lot in expanding the SOT figure. Some people use the phone more than 6 hours per day and they require to apply those mesures. probably +1:30 H of battery juice can be the difference between requiring a power bank or the battery charger.
With this phone I do never have to charge it during the night. And the car charger during commuting to work is in excess enough for keeping it alive and healthy the whole day and night and with better performance when I need it. You do not need 25 apps to do so, and probably the package @j77moduss is sharing with us is excessive and for sure overwhelming to the standard user. Maybe not 25 but 5 or 6 apps to fix the 1, 2, 3 problems and another 5 or 6 to monitor the behavior in case of excessive drain is really common and can help you on extending several hours the SOT of your terminal while reducing the idle consumption.

Altomugriento said:
100 % stock here, no debloated, no unlocked bootloader, nothing. Just using out of the box.
5:35 hours SOT is a fantastic battery performance.
Go thru 25 apps installs, unlock bootloader, etc etc for let's see... +1:30 Hs of SOT ? Really worth the pay and time spend in this?
I am missing something here?
Sorry but is a honest question, not trolling at all.
Enviado desde mi ZTE A2017U mediante Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Based on your numbers (even though they're anecdotal we can use them as a point of reference), that's giving you a 26% increase in battery with software optimization alone. I would say that's pretty damned good and worth the effort.
However, I do agree that getting 5:35hrs of SOT is pretty awesome straight out of the box. That's one of the first things that blew me away with this phone. All this power and you're getting 5:30 SOT. I light game, mid user with videos/music, but I have all my google/exchange sync to push, and have an Android Wear device connected pretty much all the time. So I expect to hit the battery a little harder than most users.
Another thing that stood out to me was the stock build. Granted, it's not as polished as some of your heavy hitters out there, but it also has a lesser footprint than most (I'm looking at you HTC and REALLY looking at you Samsung) Rooting and debloating the stock ROM has been absolutely perfect for me. I like to know exactly what my phone is running and honestly, it's worked out quite well.

Hello again, a suggestion like Lord Kelvin said "what you do not measure you cannot improve"
I have a suggestion to verify how is really running the best configuration and it is Untutu Battery test.
Maybe we could post our configuration and the Untutu result.
Any other suggestions?

@j77moduss, these are my comments on the battery extension app pack in blue:
Phone Signal (2g/3g/4g) + Wifi
1. Intelli3G (X) : Switch to 2g when phone off, turn off data when Wifi connected
2. PNF Root: Changes the pulse interval of the Cellphone and the Wifi
3. Auto Pilot: If phone signal drops bellow a certain value then the phone goes into airplane mode and checks every xminutes for good signal, instead of pinning all the time
4. Gestor de red wifi: Uses gsm towers to localize the wifi hot spots for the network you connect to. If you are in an area where you do not have a network it will disconnect Wifi. Good option if you forget, like me, to turn off the Wifi when I leave home
I leave wifi, bluetooth and LTE signal activated the whole day and night. During nigh I have about 1% drain so the cell phone signal (very low at home) or wifi are not significant energy drainers lately. Probably the monitoring task of those apps are consuming about the same wireless energy you are saving with them.
CPU / System Tweaks
1. BootManager (X): Turn Off apps in the StartUp list Usually you install things you need. Stopping push notifications removes part of the functionality, otherwise they are not started.
2. Auto Start Manager: Turn off apps in any event (aka if you turn the GPS on I do not want Google Maps to go on until I click it, etc) What are you using this for? GPS is not by any means a huge battery drainer in this phone.
3. ]CPU Turner: change governors / CPU speed in per profile configuration This is the main cause of battery drain. An optimized profile can even duplicate the screen on time.
4. Smart Booster Pro (X) : Control RAM and close apps as needed This is actually a very bad idea. Free RAM equals to wasted RAM. reading from RAM take less energy than reading from the flash storage. While the app is cached in the RAM it is not using energy until it is required. If you flush the RAM then next time your phone will use a lot more energy and time to reopen the app. This was an issue Jellybean. Nowadays clearing RAM is something we should avoid at all cost. RAM is a cache for the apps, so use it as much as possible.
5. HEBF Optimizer: Kernel Optimizer, FStrim,Zipalingn, Battery Savings, etc.. Filesystem optimizations could be improved by just switching to F2FS filesystem. This doesn't require zipaligns and it helps on saving energy and extending the life of your flash storage.
Wakelock / Sleep
1. DS Ahorro de Bateria (X): Deep sleep when screen off and control how often it wakes to ping Email/Whatsapp, etc..
2. Force Doze: Force doze right away after screen off
3. Amplify: Turn off wakelocks or control pulse
4. Greenify (X): Hibernate apps
5. No Wakelocks: Block all wakelocks per app, useful for killing wakelock of games or non notification apps, for example.
6. Power Nap: Stop wakelocks/services/alarms from waking the phone during standby
7. XDA forum thread: [Guide]0%[0,0%/h] Idle Battery Drain on Stock Rom (Xposed & Amplify Required!) from Celestial Fury . This is the BIBLE of wakelock management!!
8. Doze: Prevent apps from using cell or wifi internet connection when in sleep mode.
Numbers 1,2 and 6 seems to be somehow doing the same thing. What is the best from your point of view? why? Numbers 4 and 5 seems to be the same, however I do not find any use for them without losing functionality. No. 8 falls into the phone signal group. In this group the true game changer is Amplify.
Screen Savers
1. Color Changer: Set the screen Black and White. It is the only app that I have found that allows setting a widget to on/off both in the launcher and in the pull down notification menu.
2. Pixoff Battery Saver: Huge battery saver – Turn off (a.k.a black) leds of a pixel so you save battery, I can achieve 50% savings with acceptable resolution. You can generate also your own pattern.
3. Screen Filter: Filter to dim the screen
4. Screen Saver: Black
5. Any App that I can set black theme
6. Substratum: Theming app, I use Dark themes (paid for them): Domination / Inversion UI/ Swift Black
7. Boot Animation: Change your Boot animation to a dark one
8. TeamBlack: Change to black multiple apps: Whatsapp, Tapatalk,Playstore,Keep, etc..
9. GravityBox: Set swipe the notification bar on, so you swipe your finger left and right to quickly change the DIM.
We have one of the best screens in the market. This AMOLED Samsung panel is excellent. The absence of backlight is a great for battery savings so the more black you have, the less relevant the screen is for the SOT. Number 2 and 3 seem to be similar and I am curious about them and have my fears regarding the extra CPU required to process the screen. Which one is better? The big thing here is number 5. Number 8 is also interesting. The rest are not providing a significant advantage.
Battery Checkers and Wakelock Analizers
1. Wackelock Detector : Wackelocks / Greenify apps
2. GSAM Battery Monitor: Wakelocks / Plot
3. BetterBatteryStats: Wakelocks / Plot
I really recommend everyone to use Accubattery for at least one week to learn how to properly charge the battery. The rest of the statistics are provided by the las couple of apps you listed. Nonetheless all the battery apps are needed when you are actively tuning your phone, after a while they become useless garbage until you face another huge change such as a new ROM.
Miscellaneous
1. Root Toolbox Lite: Clean Dalvink / Cache after TRWP .zip installation This is useless in current OS. Now since the huge transition to the new ART (Android Run Time), the OS detects new installed apps so cleaning dalvik / Cache is just adding more useless drain to the battery since the AOT compiler has to process all the apps instead of only the new one. In the old times this was beneficial, not it is something you must do only if it is absolutely required.
2. Prevent Running: App will only execute if on intentionally clicked I am curius about this. what is the purpose of it regarding battery saving?
3. Battery Calibration: After each rom installation, reach 100% charge and erase Battery_Stats Why? Battery stats are aso wiped when you do a clean flash. If the OS is good enough it should take cate of recalibrating the battery. It only takes a few seconds.
4. Battery Draining: After calibration, a quick cycle of discharge to 0%.[/QUOTE] NEVER!!!!!!! There are 2 states really dangerous for the battery. One is full charge. If you reach full charge, it means that you have stressed the battery a lot in order to reach that state. New hardware battery managers just avoid reaching 100% charge just to extend the battery life. It is a common technique for PC laptops. Accubattery is one of the few battery managers that is actually focused in extending the life of your battery. You won't want to have 20% less battery after 1 year of charging it to 100% each night. Well, the second and most dangerous state for a Li-ion battery is to reach full depletion. A state of deep discharge can make it impossible to recharge again since some batteries require an extra kick not provided by the charger. Do never leave any device on until depleted, if you leave it fully discharged for a while, chances are that you will need to replace the battery. The bottom line of this is: avoid 100% charge, 85% is fair, as much as %90 and do NEVER reach full depletion. If you r phone reaches 6% just turn it off completely.
There are other ways to improve the battery such as switching to F2FS filesystem with optimized mount options. F2FS is specifically designed for flash storage. It reduces the write cycles and optimizes the use of the cache so it is far more energy efficient than the linux etx4. On the other side, it extends the life of your flash storage, including the emmc and the micro SD card die. Less writes means less wear.
Also avoid unnecessary apps, they will drain battery when rebuilding the ART AOL cache and requires extra processing for the launcher as well as for the OS in general.
I am quite happy you opened this thread with this discussion. There are other users around here such as @JeromeLeung also looking for the best performance vs. battery balance for the Axon 7.

I attach some screenshots of my battery evolution and stats for today.
Basically it drained about 1% during 5 hours at night. At work the signal is even worse and depend on the place in the building. However I spend a lot of time on wifi. At work and during the morning the screen was on for 8 hours while the battery level only drop 50%.
Extrapolating these values to a full battery level, the SOT is about 16 h
During the day I attended 3 phone calls and multiple Skype and WhatsApp calls. I used Spotify during the round trip commuting using Bluetooth. I browsed internet, I used XDA labs app, mail (tons of them), text messages, Skype, hangouts and WhatsApp messages. 4 pictures and I also had to install one app.
I only applied 4 tweaks to get this:
1. Optimized F2FS filesystem
2. Amplify
3. balanced AKT Xhana CPU profile (amazing performance)
4. Dark themes in several apps
All that using ZADmix7 ROM with stock kernel as the base system. I also enjoy premium sound with Viper4Arise that takes some CPU for the audio enhancement while playing music during commuting.
So yes, only 4 tweaks can almost triplicate the screen on time, increase performance and solve the deep sleep problem.

Oki said:
I attach some screenshots of my battery evolution and stats for today.
..... snip .....
I only applied 4 tweaks to get this:
1. Optimized F2FS filesystem
2. Amplify
3. balanced AKT Xhana CPU profile (amazing performance)
4. Dark themes in several apps
.... snip ....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the in-depth analysis. Can you explain "Amplify", which of the 5 "Xhana Balanced" profiles you used & looks like you are fine-tuning an update to the application of F2FS? How will that change F2FS implementation for those of us that haven't made the change yet?

amphi66 said:
Thanks for the in-depth analysis. Can you explain "Amplify", which of the 5 "Xhana Balanced" profiles you used & looks like you are fine-tuning an update to the application of F2FS? How will that change F2FS implementation for those of us that haven't made the change yet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think they released a new all in one script called AKT that only has 2 Xana and 1 Zhana profile. Simpler! :laugh:

JeromeLeung said:
I think they released a new all in one script called AKT that only has 2 Xana and 1 Zhana profile. Simpler! :laugh:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I'll check again. I had downloaded the AKT just yesterday.

amphi66 said:
Thanks for the in-depth analysis. Can you explain "Amplify", which of the 5 "Xhana Balanced" profiles you used & looks like you are fine-tuning an update to the application of F2FS? How will that change F2FS implementation for those of us that haven't made the change yet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The one I was using yesterday was the Xhana profile. It is under the balanced submenu of the AKT command. It won't work on stock kernel unless you enable init.d support before flashing the AKT profiles ZIP. Regarding the F2FS optimization, please read the updated OP of that thread, In my latest posts in that thread I explain the procedure to integrate the mount options in init.d. The rebuild of the filesystem structure with optimized values is about to be simpler, since we are tuning the new TWRP 3.0.3-f2fs with backported F2FS drivers from Android 4.10. Do not use it yet since it can destroy your data partition if you use it as any other TWRP!!!! 3.0.3-1 is the safest so far. But you are safe if you already have a backup of your /data and /sdcard folders.

Oki said:
The one I was using yesterday was the Xhana profile. It is under the balanced submenu of the AKT command. It won't work on stock kernel unless you enable init.d support before flashing the AKT profiles ZIP. Regarding the F2FS optimization, please read the updated OP of that thread, In my latest posts in that thread I explain the procedure to integrate the mount options in init.d. The rebuild of the filesystem structure with optimized values is about to be simpler, since we are tuning the new TWRP 3.0.3-f2fs with backported F2FS drivers from Android 4.10. Do not use it yet since it can destroy your data partition if you use it as any other TWRP!!!! 3.0.3-1 is the safest so far. But you are safe if you already have a backup of your /data and /sdcard folders.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got it. I have HawkPepper, just above "Project'. The F2FS optimizations look interesting, but a bit confusing at this point. I used F2FS on my N5, but it was simply a question of having a kernel that supported, saving sdcard contents, changing structure from TWRP and copying tbe data back again.

amphi66 said:
Got it. I have HawkPepper, just above "Project'. The F2FS optimizations look interesting, but a bit confusing at this point. I uses F2FS on my N5, but it was simply a question of having a kernel that supported, saving sdcard contents, changing structure from TWRP and copying tbe data back again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Axon 7 stock kernel supports F2FS, so you just have to do basically what you did with the N5. However there are some mount options that can optimize the structure created during the data restore, and that depends on the F2FS implementation. There are also some problems with the encryption, this is why I wrote the guide for the Axon 7.

Oki said:
The one I was using yesterday was the Xhana profile. It is under the balanced submenu of the AKT command. It won't work on stock kernel unless you enable init.d support before flashing the AKT profiles ZIP. Regarding the F2FS optimization, please read the updated OP of that thread, In my latest posts in that thread I explain the procedure to integrate the mount options in init.d. The rebuild of the filesystem structure with optimized values is about to be simpler, since we are tuning the new TWRP 3.0.3-f2fs with backported F2FS drivers from Android 4.10. Do not use it yet since it can destroy your data partition if you use it as any other TWRP!!!! 3.0.3-1 is the safest so far. But you are safe if you already have a backup of your /data and /sdcard folders.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you mind sharing the Amplify wakelocks/alarms/services settings you have on your phone? Just bought the app, but have no idea what is safe to tweak without breaking the phone </3

Pollito788 said:
Do you mind sharing the Amplify wakelocks/alarms/services settings you have on your phone? Just bought the app, but have no idea what is safe to tweak without breaking the phone </3
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't limited the system too much. I do not want to get rid of receiving messages or limiting location services, so I allowed the wakelocks to be active every 180 sec. I limited: GCoreFlp, Location ManagerService, NlpWakeLock, AudioIn, bluedroid_timer, NlpCollectorWakeLock.
Same for alarms: com.droid27.twc.ACTION_TIMER_TICK, ch.bitspin.timely.widget.UPDATE_ACTION and com.android.chrome/com.google.ipc.invalidation.external.client.contrib.AndroidListener$AlarmReceiver.
I have not limited any service. I do not want to save battery while losing features.
I was losing about 1% through the night so I do not need to go very aggressive on Amplify configuration. I just force close Spotify after using it since I see it drains the battery when not in use. Amplify is not per-se a battery saver, it helps you on controlling rogue apps.
As you could see, the magic for saving battery is not Amplify, but the good tunables for the Interactive CPU governor and IO scheduler provided by AKT. These days I have been testing different Governors and I have found that BurnoutPR3 is best for benchmarks but for a daily driver Balanced Shana profile is awesome. With it I get from 10 to 16 hrs. of SOT depending on the high load time I put on the CPU (pictures, video recording time, youtube...).
I never charge the phone by night with the Axon 7 since I do not need it, all thanks to QC 3.0, I barely charge it in my car while commuting to work and by night, if I am under 40%, I load it about 25 mins to 70% and next morning while my 15 mins commuting time it reaches about 85-90% (never full charge it if you want your battery to last more than a few months). Short sessions of quick charge are healthier than long sessions to 100%. On the other hand do never leave your battery run out of charge or close to 0%. AccuBattery app can teach you how to get healthier charging habits.
Saludos

Oki said:
I haven't limited the system too much. I do not want to get rid of receiving messages or limiting location services, so I allowed the wakelocks to be active every 180 sec. I limited: GCoreFlp, Location ManagerService, NlpWakeLock, AudioIn, bluedroid_timer, NlpCollectorWakeLock.
Same for alarms: com.droid27.twc.ACTION_TIMER_TICK, ch.bitspin.timely.widget.UPDATE_ACTION and com.android.chrome/com.google.ipc.invalidation.external.client.contrib.AndroidListener$AlarmReceiver.
I have not limited any service. I do not want so safe battery while losing features.
I was lust losing about 1% through the night so I do not need to go very aggressive on Amplify configuration. I just force close Spotify after using it since I see it drains the battery when not in use. Amplify is not per-se a battery saver, it helps you on controlling rogue apps.
As you could see, the magic for saving battery is not Amplify, but the good tunables for the Interactive CPU governor and IO scheduler provided by AKT. These days I have been testing different Governors and I have found that BurnoutPR3 is best for benchmarks but for a daily driver Balanced Shana profile is awesome. With it I get from 10 to 16 hrs. of SOT depending on the high load time I put on the CPU (pictures, video recording time, youtube...).
I never charge the phone by night with the Axon 7 since I do not need it thankls to QC 3.0, I barely charge it in my car while commuting to work and, if by night I am under 40% I load it about 25 mins to 70% and next morning while my 15 mins commuting time it reaches about 85-90% (never full charge it if you want your battery to last more than a few months). Short sessions of quick charge are healthier than long sessions to 100%. On the other hand do never leave your battery run out of charge or close to it. AccuBattery can teach you how to get healthier charging habits.
Saludos
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I appreciate the detailed explanation. Thanks a bunch !