The "a" on my keyboard was getting flakey. It took a couple times of hitting it to work, and I was really getting annoyed. Also after almost 2 years of using this HTC (Branded the 8125) by Cingular, I was itching to disassemble it.
I could not find any information on repairing the keyboard/key cleaning.
There is a manual for this in the ftp space should anyone need. It is not specifically for the Wizard. You have to prise the lower housing off in a similar fashion. The rest of the disassembly is easy enough. Soon, you will have the 'middle' section of the phone in your hands, with only the keyboard and its flex connector attached.
Look carefully for screws, tabs, clips, anything that is holding the keyboard into the piece. You won't find one. Look even closer, and you still won't. I had my glasses off (contacts out) and focus at about 2" and still didn't see a damn thing holding the keyboard assembly into the part.
That is because there isn't anything.
I apologise for not taking pictures, it was together before I remembered. But here is the issue:
If you look at the bottom of the panel that holds the assembly, where the softkey buttons are, there are slots that allow you to see the layers of the keyboard. Using a very fine x-acto blade or knife, slide just under the black layer, and pry up. The keys and their laminated components are glued down to the flexible board that has the key contacts. The 'domed' part of the contacts is part of the key layer, and will be the bottom. A bit of cleaning and the contacts were again happy and shiny.
Make sure that when you put the key layer back down that it is centered properly. Make sure that the soft keys at the top are not bound, or they will stick up and catch the slider.
Oh, and the kicker? None of the other disassembly was needed, since there was nothing inside the phone to release the keyboard. But what the Hell, it needed a good cleaning anyway.
One more thing, the best place to do this is NOT in a hotel room with almost no tools. That makes it far more challenging.
I'll describe everything from scratch so you'll know what the problem is. So, I had 2 MDA Vario II, both developed a fault (on one when I pressed the button on na hardware keyboard it showed two letters on the screen instead, on the other the backlight under a couple of letters stopped working) so I dissasembled them and out of two faulty, I had one working and one working so-so.
As I wanted the other one to be sorted (the connector to the hardware keyboard was burned in some places on the mainboard and the keyboard tape connector as well), I was shopping for some faulty ones on eBay and yesterday I bought an original TyTN with LCD screen not working. I dissasembled both of them and connected the full LCD fascia with the screen to the mainboard of the TyTN (so that now I've got the LCD housing from T-Mobile, but the rest from HTC) and everything is working perfectly... however I'd like to use TyTN only housing and possibly buy a new one on eBay (but keys on the bottom are different for Vario II and TyTN).
I do know that LCD screens are incompatible, in the TyTN I have the HITACHI and in Vario I got the TOPPOLI (however the whole thing works with the mainboard, as both of them have the same product codes)...
But does someone know if I put the whole LCD from the Vario including the tape and top buttons in the fascia of the TyTN and connect it to the bottom buttons circuit, it will actually work. I will do it anyway, but if someone was doing it in the past that would motivate me to fiddle with it tomorrow
Sorted.
For all those with NOT working LCD screens/keyboards/mainboards...
As I the LCD screens are not compatible and we often do not know what we are going to get off eBay, lots of people face the problem of buying something that may not work with their version.
I needed the mainboard and the keyboard in my Vario II (HERM300) and I bought HTC TyTN (the original one, HERM200) with not working LCD (backlight working but nothing could be seen on the screen). As you may be aware that TyTN has got an extra button for 3G and Vario II not, I was wondering whether the whole thing would work. I replaced the full LCD screen with the tape including the two top buttons and connected it to the bottom circuit of the original TyTN. After assembling everything back, I switched it on and it's working without any problems. So if you have the same problem and can get hold of a cheap Hermes for spares on eBay, as long as you replace the whole lcd with tape it'll work regardless of your version...
Useful info thanks. That question was asked before and I don't think anyone gave an answer. Good to know it will work despite the different button layout.
cheers
Mike
Anyone have a source for a NEW dPad circuit board? Checked around on eBay and haven't had success. Also tried Cnn.cn and their website doesn't have them listed - at least under Hermes HTC. Phone have problems with the front keyboard and I'm starting to get whitescreens - especially when the phone is left in the car - with a little heat/sun. Dpad is erratic. Can use up key fine but as soon as I press the down key it will stop working. Most of the time moving the scroll wheel will "fix" the problem for a while but the down directional key is doing something. Have opened the case and tightened the connector screws but I think either the flex of the circuit board is going bad.
After replacing the main board of my HD2, the keypad no longer works. At first the button on the left (answer phone) was still working while the other weren't but after reseating the flex cable of the keypad, none of the keys work.
I don't think the main board (or the connector) is broken but I will be able to test that soon enough since I ordered a replacement keypad board. I will be able to just plug that one in without having to disassemble the HD2 to check if it's indeed the keypad that's broken.
But if the keypad is indeed broken, I will need to replace it (obviously). I can find how to disassemble the HD2 (video's, pictorials, etc), but nowhere can I find how to assemble the HD2.
For instance, you will need to separate the screen from the chassis by heating it up (with a heatgun or blow dryer) since those are glued/taped together. But I can't find anywhere how to glue/tape those two parts together again.
So can anyone direct me to some instructions? Or have any tips?
(Shameless) Bump?
Hi guys,
I just disassembled my HD2 to replace my broken digitizer and touchscreen.
But now i'm stuck with a problem.
What shall I use to glue both items together again?
And the keyboard makes some issues.
I tried to place both parts over eachother to see if they fit but I can't press the keys after it.
Seems like they are stuck.
That's why I didn't want to use superglue because after assembling it I wouldn't be able to change anything.
Maybe pictures tell more than words.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=player_embedded
hope that helps you
thanks wasn't the information I was looking for but nevermind
I assembled the device now .. but the next problem occured ..
the hd2 is loading without problems (led shows it) but when I try to power it on it's completely dead. nothing happends
with my old touchscreen it was at least possible to power it on.
my question is:
could the new soldered touchscreen + digitizer be broken? or did I break something during disassembly and assembly?
To be honest I didn't see any mistakes I made.
It's not my first time repairing stuff like that because I used to repair notebooks as a hobby.
Still i'm unsure what the heck is going on with my phone atm.
did you check if the flex cable from display is in the port, there is an white stripe that shows how far it must in the port. Did the phone vibrate when you pressed power button?
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
12dollar said:
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
bib*oops said:
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
12dollar said:
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear that!
Definitely you should replace your keypad flex!
Did you fix the problem with the hardware keys
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
maznevh said:
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Hard to get hardware buttons clickable
Mister B said:
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
maznevh said:
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do not rule out the LCD/Digitizer assembly as the china combos are prone to not the best accuracy of assembly as sounds like maybe LCD is mounted just a fraction too low on the digitizer perhaps.
Button board should be fixed via 3M style tape & most replacement boards come with tape ready for fitting.
worth making effort with button board to centre chassis to mount securely then mounting lcd to chassis without tape for a trial assembly & try and check for possible issues such as bent chassis or old tape not removed sufficiently or new assembly alignment not the best.
I would also recommend using original plastic button strip as the copy ones are not always good & have had experience with them before.