Hello guys I am looking for the wireless antenna for the universal (small metal piece held on by a screw by the ribbon screen cable) and also the little magnet that changes orientation on the screen. Its a very small magnet on the screen lid of the phone.
Also if you happen to have the 64 meg chips for ram upgrade (not as important). Im doing up another memory upgrade and don't have chips :-(
Thank you guys for all of your help.
Related
Not sure whether this should be asked in accessories or not, but has anybody found a solution to the inadequate height of the rubber bump-stops on the O2 Exec? Their height isn't quite high enough to prevent the keys touching the screen's part of the clamshell so you end up with the keys getting rubbed smooth, and marks on the case where they touch.
At the moment, I've got a couple of bits of sticky rubber foot on preventing the touch, but they are moving around on the adhesive since there's so little of it.
What we could really do with is somebody with manufacturing facilities to create replacement bump-stops that are taller than the original ones, unless anybody else has a solution?
Cheers,
Steve.
Nobody got a solution to this?
Cheers,
Steve.
Haven't noticed the problem until you mentioned it but that's because I've been keeping my unit in a leather case -- which actually prevents it from closing comppletely (I'm using the piel frama case with the new clear plastic cover)
Not sure how I would cope with a case - how do you rotate the screen or put it into a Brodit holder without having to take it on and off all the time?
Cheers,
Steve.
You can rotate the screen by opening the flip cover of the case (ie: PielFrama; XAX case sold by expansys; and many others) Not too sure about your Brodit holder w/ a case though.
Surely there must be a good solution to this? I'd pay good money(well, some) for a set of bump stops that were tall enough to stop the keyboard touching. A bit of a design flaw, I guess...
Cheers,
Steve
what I do is, I sandwich a small cleaning cloth in between....this way, I have the cloth at all times to wipe the display when needed....and also protects the screen and the surroundings from touching the keypad! I use the cloth that came along with my screen protector....
have a great new year!
San
Hi
Has anyone got any ideas about where I can get replacement rubber bump stops (normal or extended height) for my Exec? One of mine has fallen off and got lost. I have tried contacting O2, but short of sending the device back for repair, which I don't want to do, they cannot help.
Thanks for any info.
Mark
I have same problem with my QTEK 9000. I have shiny dots obeside my Universal's screen which corresponds to where the keys are located on the keayboard. I believe this is a manufacturing defect, right?
Anybody was able to return their device because of these spots? I've had my device for 1 month and they're starting to irritate me.
StevePritchard said:
Not sure how I would cope with a case - how do you rotate the screen or put it into a Brodit holder without having to take it on and off all the time?
Cheers,
Steve.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe I'll screw a belt clip to my brodit car mount. A simple unclip from my belt and then clip it onto the car mount. It'd need some sides on the mount to keep it from rotating due to gravity but I could see this working. Anyone have contacts with Brodit and a good case maker?
Tron_Of_Borg said:
StevePritchard said:
Not sure how I would cope with a case - how do you rotate the screen or put it into a Brodit holder without having to take it on and off all the time?
Cheers,
Steve.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe I'll screw a belt clip to my brodit car mount. A simple unclip from my belt and then clip it onto the car mount. It'd need some sides on the mount to keep it from rotating due to gravity but I could see this working. Anyone have contacts with Brodit and a good case maker?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I would rather find somebody who can manufacture taller rubber stops to replace the existing ones...
Cheers,
Steve.
Rubber Keyboard Bump Stops - possible solution
I've had a bit of a play with my Exec - my friend has lost one of his rubber bump-stops, so I prized one of mine out with a jewellers screw driver to find that they are just pushed in, and so it would be relatively easy to lose them, I think.
Using the same thin screwdriver, I applied super-glue to the recess into which the rubber stop sits, and then pushed the stop back in, but not all the way. Now I have a pair of stops that sit about 1-2mm proud of where they were originally, and they are glued in to prevent loss.
I'll try and remember to post back in a week or two to let you know how I get on with them.
Cheers,
Steve.
I sure hope that there isn't a seam down there where the rubber feet were! I'd hate to hear of a PCB glued to the underside of the keyboard cover.
You can see that there are internal components below the recess, but that's why I applied the superglue with the screwdriver around the inner edge of the recess, as opposed to just squirting it into the hole.
As long as you don't flood the hole with glue, none of it will drop through to the components beneath.
Cheers,
Steve.
Hi
Forgive me if this has been posted before, but this is my 1st post here & need a little 1to1
My touch screen on my Qtek 9100 stopped working a few days ago, the phone is ok, i can make calls & use the manual keypad.
The phone was left uncharged for a few days & when i went to use it again the touch screen was not working.
There is a dent in the screen that i did not notice before, its only about 1cm, actually its more of a scratch than a dent.
The screen looks fine, no cracks or black spots visable.
No life from the screen, whatever part i touch.
Can someone advise me on what to do to get back up & running.... I have already done this.....
Hard & soft resets
Installed latest ROM.
Phone is currently stuck on the the "touch screen to setup your mobile device screen"
I have already ordered a new touch screen from the net,
should i just change the touch screen or are there other things to try first?
Any advice welcome like
(links to how to change the screen)
Cheers
any luck? im having the same proble but with my atom exec and everyone seems slightly blank on this
When the touchscreen went bad on mine, it turned out the cause was a tiny, almost invisible hairline crack in the touchscreen's ribbon cable which severed one of the wires. I had to use a magnifying lens to see it.
It was possible to test with a multimeter. On the back of the LCD is a piece of clear tape covering where the touchscreen ribbon is soldered to the LCD. You will need to lift the tape to expose 4 wires from the touchscreen. With pressure on the screen, there should be a resistance around 1.2kohms between pins 1&2 and the same between pins 3&4. On mine, pins 3&4 were open circuit.
To fix mine, I didn't change the screen. I removed the touchscreen ribbon from the main LCD (accidentally tearing the solder pads off the ribbon - I wasn't sure how it was attached). Then I used an X-acto knife and scraped off some plastic from each side of the break. Then I soldered a TINY piece of copper wire no thicker than a hair across the break (a single strand from a stranded wire). Since I accidentally tore the solder pads off the ribbon, I scraped off some plastic from the copper traces there and soldered some wire to them and soldered that to the LCD. That did the trick, it's all working now!
i have this same problem.. i was using the qtek with the cracked digitizer but when i did the hard reset it took me to this screen. is there anyway we can get off this screen? help plz!!
I'm writing this up because someone else might like to benefit from my experiences with doing this repair.
Get your tools together: Multimeter, Torx T5, jeweler's Phillips (size 00), 15w soldering pencil, a bit of flux, some thin (I used 0.38mm 63/57% tin/lead) solder, and a clean place to work. You may want to grab a small ice cube tray or something similar with compartments to toss the screws in so you remember where they go. I highly suggest you get Kapton (3M) tape but you could use cellophane tape or a cut piece of packing tape. I had Kapton on hand so that's what I went with. You also need to either make sure the seller provides the double-stick tape gasket that binds the digitizer to the LCD shield or that you managed to salvage the one that secured the old digitizer. I was lucky and it came off the glass and stayed on the metal.
First of all, I've always had horrible problems with alignment with my Vario. The top of the screen was usually fine but the bottom would start drifting up. Cleaning the crap out of the edges under the bezel with a business card or doing the thumb rub was fine for that particular session but when I would sleep it and put it in my pocket, it was screwed up the next time. Dropping my Vario on the floor has managed to create a triangular dead zone that peaks at 1/2" from the bottom center and degrades towards the bottom left and right corners.
I bought a digitizer on Ebay from a seller in Hong Kong. It arrived about two weeks later and came with a T8 Torx and a case cracking tool. The T8 was thrown aside because it's obviously the wrong tool so I used my T5 and cracked the case. I won't get into disassembly/reassembly because that isn't the object of this and you can google the directions. Suffice it to say, when you reassemble the back half, ensure the volume slider on the case isn't going to snap the tab off of the volume switch on the board like I did the last time I disassembled it.
A note on this particular digitizer - It's NOT a HTC brand part. It's a generic part and doesn't have the glossy top sheet. I paid $20 shipped and for $20 it ain't bad. There is slightly less light transmitted and it's harder to read outdoors in direct sun but no big deal - it hasn't had to be realigned yet.
Now that you've removed the back cover, lifted out the board, unscrewed the LCD slider from the front cover, disassembled the two halves of the LCD slider, removed the screws that secure the top and bottom button pads to the LCD top frame and lifted out the LCD/button assembly and it's sitting in front of you - lets get to work!
First of all, you need to commit to this before you start making irreversible changes. If you've never soldered before, put this thing back together or find someone who has. You don't need a SMT station or the ability to solder 0605 components but since you're soldering on the plastic ribbon carrier, you need to be sure of your skills in order to not trash the LCD ribbon.
Now that you're ready to do this, examine the LCD panel and you will see that the digitizer is attached to the frame of the LCD panel. Use thin blade like a single edged razor to slide between the glass panel and the metal case and start lifting up the glass panel. If you're lucky, it'll want to stick to the metal case. As you lift the glass, poke in some tooth picks or similar to keep the glass from seating again. Start at a corner and work around going SLOWLY. I got to the bottom, rushed, and smashed the old part causing glass dust to go everywhere!. Try to avoid that.
Now that the old panel is off, cut the ribbon cable going from the base of the digitizer to the back of the LCD. Just slice it in half to get the old part out of the way.
At this point, align the new digitizer at the top of the frame first and then gently press it down. Ensure that ONLY the back's protective plastic sheet has been removed to avoid smudges and scratches. Now place the unit face down on something like a mousepad or similar surface.
There is a piece of Kapton tape across the digitizer ribbon and the backlight ribbon. Peel from the side with the digitizer FIRST! I started pulling from the backlight cable side and damn near pulled the backlight ribbon off!
GENTLY GENTLY GENTLY peel the old ribbon cable from the digitizer DOWN and ensure that it isn't ripping the pads away from the LCD cable. There may be a better way to do this but this method worked for me, I grabbed a corner with needle nose pliers and slowly pulled at a 45 degree angle. You want to pull the top which is the side soldered to the ribbon, not the bottom, which you cut earlier.
Plug that soldering pencil in, make sure it's set to 15w.
Now, with my el-cheapo digitizer, the ribbon from the front was slightly misaligned and I had to angle it over to the right. Otherwise if I went straight up it would've been misaligned about 2mm to the left. Ensure you have the traces parallel and directly on top of the existing ones and tape the bottom of the cable so it stays put. Another thing with my digitizer was the end required trimming. This made it easy to position when I had it bent back.
Now that the bottom is aligned and you don't have to mess with it, bend the cable back so that the copper traces are now facing up. The bend should be at the bottom 3rd of the exposed traces on the LCD cable. Make a nice sharp fold on the cable. Swab on a little bit of flux to make things easier to manage. Grab a popsicle stick or similar to push the new ribbon to the LCD ribbon, get the solder ready, and try to keep the heat on very shortly. You should only need 3 seconds of heat to get a decent solder joint because there is almost zero copper to heat up. Ensure the first joint is good by a quick tug of the cable and do the next three. After they are done, test with the meter going across to ensure the joint is good and from one side to each neighbor to make sure you have no shorts. Do the next three and then cut the extra ribbon cable off leaving maybe 1/4". Grab your tape and put a nice big piece across the back of the LCD covering both ribbon cables just like it was.
Now, reassemble your phone, turn it on, align the screen, and you ought to be good to go.
I don't take any responsibility for anything you might do to screw up your phone. These were my steps to fix my phone and they may not work for you and your phone.
As an aside, the new matte screen doesn't accumulate 'face gunk' quite like the old glossy one did. Also, the sensitivity is down a tiny bit and it needs more finger pressure to use Slide2Unlock. The digitizer also gets Newtonian Rings (google it) whereas the OEM one didn't. Also, there is a faint hum from the backlight (?) when it's on now that I didn't notice before.
So far, so good... The alignment on the bottom right corner is about 1.25mm above where the stylus point is but that might just be a problem with the screen itself. The alignment has stayed rock steady since I aligned it yesterday morning.
Hi, i have been experiencing a screen display problem.
When i power on the Hermes the screen does not power on.
If i then place the Hermes on a hard surface and press down hard on the long sides at the edge of the screen i can make the backlight and display appears.
However, if i release this pressure the backlight remains on but the display will become scrambled. The scrambled display is variously showing white noise, scan lines, mispositioned graphics, and ultimately fading to white.
Also, if the phone rings the audio is distorted and crackling.
I have dismantled the Hermes as far as removing the housing for the LCD from the rest of the phone. I then opened up this housing and disconnected / reconnected the LCD flex cable that is by the very edge of the housing. Then reassembled phone. No improvement was made, in fact the display issue was made more tempermental!
However the phone stil works as i am using it at the moment as a 3g modem for my laptop.
But it is extremely frustrating / near impossible to use it for any other purpose in this condition!
I am wondering as to what the problem could be and how i might solve it?
I am thinking that the problem must be due to a poor connection / oxidation / dry solder somewhere.
I would appreciate advice as to what i could do to solve this issue myself.
Next steps???
>>> Would there be any use in spraying a little WD40 into cable contacts?
>>> Someone has suggested passing a heat gun over the PCB to bond any solder that may have cracked.... Although i am sure that this is a trick that can work with old PCBs that he plays around with i am not so sure that this would be such a good idea on the flimsy multi layer boards in the Hermes.
Let me know what you think of these ideas...
white screen
Hi..not sure which version of the hermes you have, but this has been a common problem for years. My Cingular 8525 did the same thing. I finally figured out while placing the phone into a desktop charger that it was putting pressure on one lower corner of my phone and it would go white. It got to the point any pressure on it would cause the screen to fade to white. I contacted AT&T tech support about it and even though fone was out of the warranty period(over a year) they sent me a refurb ATT branded 8525 at no charge. I've had that one now close to two years with no problems.
Hi Oleschuldad, thanks for your reply. I have the Hermes100 branded as the "ORaNGE SPV M3100". Yes i have read that the white screen issue is a major blight for the hermes phone. From what i have read It seems that there are numerous causes and the problem can be difficult to trace to a specific component. The problem that my phone has is the opposite to the what you had with your phone. In that i must EXERT PRESSURE on the phone to be able to read the display. The indication is such that i am certain that it must be the result of either loose connection / bad solder / corrosion somewhere.
Think that i will get a can of electrical contact cleaner spray and clean the contacts on the flex cables.
Looks like corrosion is definitely an issue in my phone as there is some green oxide on the round watch type battery that sits on the main board next to the contacts for the main battery.
I will have to strip the phone down again at the weekend.
I've just replaced the screen and digitiser in my wife's (original) Nexus 7. The new screen works but the digitiser is somewhat erratic - it mostly works when held in the hand, but becomes fairly unsensitive when placed on a table.
At first I thought it was a dodgy connection and holding it would put pressure on the ZIF connector on the motherboard for the digitiser. But I've discovered that if I place it on a thin table mat it is erratic, but putting my hand under the mat (so not changing the pressure on the back of the tablet) causes it to be more reliable, so I'm guessing its being affected by rf-coupling with the "holding" hand.
Anyway, I'm wondering if there's any way to recalibrate the sensitivity of the screen to see if upping the sensitivity will help?
Many thanks.