Hi
Forgive me if this has been posted before, but this is my 1st post here & need a little 1to1
My touch screen on my Qtek 9100 stopped working a few days ago, the phone is ok, i can make calls & use the manual keypad.
The phone was left uncharged for a few days & when i went to use it again the touch screen was not working.
There is a dent in the screen that i did not notice before, its only about 1cm, actually its more of a scratch than a dent.
The screen looks fine, no cracks or black spots visable.
No life from the screen, whatever part i touch.
Can someone advise me on what to do to get back up & running.... I have already done this.....
Hard & soft resets
Installed latest ROM.
Phone is currently stuck on the the "touch screen to setup your mobile device screen"
I have already ordered a new touch screen from the net,
should i just change the touch screen or are there other things to try first?
Any advice welcome like
(links to how to change the screen)
Cheers
any luck? im having the same proble but with my atom exec and everyone seems slightly blank on this
When the touchscreen went bad on mine, it turned out the cause was a tiny, almost invisible hairline crack in the touchscreen's ribbon cable which severed one of the wires. I had to use a magnifying lens to see it.
It was possible to test with a multimeter. On the back of the LCD is a piece of clear tape covering where the touchscreen ribbon is soldered to the LCD. You will need to lift the tape to expose 4 wires from the touchscreen. With pressure on the screen, there should be a resistance around 1.2kohms between pins 1&2 and the same between pins 3&4. On mine, pins 3&4 were open circuit.
To fix mine, I didn't change the screen. I removed the touchscreen ribbon from the main LCD (accidentally tearing the solder pads off the ribbon - I wasn't sure how it was attached). Then I used an X-acto knife and scraped off some plastic from each side of the break. Then I soldered a TINY piece of copper wire no thicker than a hair across the break (a single strand from a stranded wire). Since I accidentally tore the solder pads off the ribbon, I scraped off some plastic from the copper traces there and soldered some wire to them and soldered that to the LCD. That did the trick, it's all working now!
i have this same problem.. i was using the qtek with the cracked digitizer but when i did the hard reset it took me to this screen. is there anyway we can get off this screen? help plz!!
Related
I'm writing this up because someone else might like to benefit from my experiences with doing this repair.
Get your tools together: Multimeter, Torx T5, jeweler's Phillips (size 00), 15w soldering pencil, a bit of flux, some thin (I used 0.38mm 63/57% tin/lead) solder, and a clean place to work. You may want to grab a small ice cube tray or something similar with compartments to toss the screws in so you remember where they go. I highly suggest you get Kapton (3M) tape but you could use cellophane tape or a cut piece of packing tape. I had Kapton on hand so that's what I went with. You also need to either make sure the seller provides the double-stick tape gasket that binds the digitizer to the LCD shield or that you managed to salvage the one that secured the old digitizer. I was lucky and it came off the glass and stayed on the metal.
First of all, I've always had horrible problems with alignment with my Vario. The top of the screen was usually fine but the bottom would start drifting up. Cleaning the crap out of the edges under the bezel with a business card or doing the thumb rub was fine for that particular session but when I would sleep it and put it in my pocket, it was screwed up the next time. Dropping my Vario on the floor has managed to create a triangular dead zone that peaks at 1/2" from the bottom center and degrades towards the bottom left and right corners.
I bought a digitizer on Ebay from a seller in Hong Kong. It arrived about two weeks later and came with a T8 Torx and a case cracking tool. The T8 was thrown aside because it's obviously the wrong tool so I used my T5 and cracked the case. I won't get into disassembly/reassembly because that isn't the object of this and you can google the directions. Suffice it to say, when you reassemble the back half, ensure the volume slider on the case isn't going to snap the tab off of the volume switch on the board like I did the last time I disassembled it.
A note on this particular digitizer - It's NOT a HTC brand part. It's a generic part and doesn't have the glossy top sheet. I paid $20 shipped and for $20 it ain't bad. There is slightly less light transmitted and it's harder to read outdoors in direct sun but no big deal - it hasn't had to be realigned yet.
Now that you've removed the back cover, lifted out the board, unscrewed the LCD slider from the front cover, disassembled the two halves of the LCD slider, removed the screws that secure the top and bottom button pads to the LCD top frame and lifted out the LCD/button assembly and it's sitting in front of you - lets get to work!
First of all, you need to commit to this before you start making irreversible changes. If you've never soldered before, put this thing back together or find someone who has. You don't need a SMT station or the ability to solder 0605 components but since you're soldering on the plastic ribbon carrier, you need to be sure of your skills in order to not trash the LCD ribbon.
Now that you're ready to do this, examine the LCD panel and you will see that the digitizer is attached to the frame of the LCD panel. Use thin blade like a single edged razor to slide between the glass panel and the metal case and start lifting up the glass panel. If you're lucky, it'll want to stick to the metal case. As you lift the glass, poke in some tooth picks or similar to keep the glass from seating again. Start at a corner and work around going SLOWLY. I got to the bottom, rushed, and smashed the old part causing glass dust to go everywhere!. Try to avoid that.
Now that the old panel is off, cut the ribbon cable going from the base of the digitizer to the back of the LCD. Just slice it in half to get the old part out of the way.
At this point, align the new digitizer at the top of the frame first and then gently press it down. Ensure that ONLY the back's protective plastic sheet has been removed to avoid smudges and scratches. Now place the unit face down on something like a mousepad or similar surface.
There is a piece of Kapton tape across the digitizer ribbon and the backlight ribbon. Peel from the side with the digitizer FIRST! I started pulling from the backlight cable side and damn near pulled the backlight ribbon off!
GENTLY GENTLY GENTLY peel the old ribbon cable from the digitizer DOWN and ensure that it isn't ripping the pads away from the LCD cable. There may be a better way to do this but this method worked for me, I grabbed a corner with needle nose pliers and slowly pulled at a 45 degree angle. You want to pull the top which is the side soldered to the ribbon, not the bottom, which you cut earlier.
Plug that soldering pencil in, make sure it's set to 15w.
Now, with my el-cheapo digitizer, the ribbon from the front was slightly misaligned and I had to angle it over to the right. Otherwise if I went straight up it would've been misaligned about 2mm to the left. Ensure you have the traces parallel and directly on top of the existing ones and tape the bottom of the cable so it stays put. Another thing with my digitizer was the end required trimming. This made it easy to position when I had it bent back.
Now that the bottom is aligned and you don't have to mess with it, bend the cable back so that the copper traces are now facing up. The bend should be at the bottom 3rd of the exposed traces on the LCD cable. Make a nice sharp fold on the cable. Swab on a little bit of flux to make things easier to manage. Grab a popsicle stick or similar to push the new ribbon to the LCD ribbon, get the solder ready, and try to keep the heat on very shortly. You should only need 3 seconds of heat to get a decent solder joint because there is almost zero copper to heat up. Ensure the first joint is good by a quick tug of the cable and do the next three. After they are done, test with the meter going across to ensure the joint is good and from one side to each neighbor to make sure you have no shorts. Do the next three and then cut the extra ribbon cable off leaving maybe 1/4". Grab your tape and put a nice big piece across the back of the LCD covering both ribbon cables just like it was.
Now, reassemble your phone, turn it on, align the screen, and you ought to be good to go.
I don't take any responsibility for anything you might do to screw up your phone. These were my steps to fix my phone and they may not work for you and your phone.
As an aside, the new matte screen doesn't accumulate 'face gunk' quite like the old glossy one did. Also, the sensitivity is down a tiny bit and it needs more finger pressure to use Slide2Unlock. The digitizer also gets Newtonian Rings (google it) whereas the OEM one didn't. Also, there is a faint hum from the backlight (?) when it's on now that I didn't notice before.
So far, so good... The alignment on the bottom right corner is about 1.25mm above where the stylus point is but that might just be a problem with the screen itself. The alignment has stayed rock steady since I aligned it yesterday morning.
My friend broke his touchscreen, and asked me to fix it. I've bought a replacement touchscreen, but I can't work out how to remove the the old touch glass. It's stuck on there with glue or something, I don't know. Is there a way to remove it other than painstakingly shattering each piece of glass and chipping away with a screw driver?
HTC Manual
Hi,
have no idea, but did you take a look into the HTC Service manual - which is available somewhere in the internet or in this forum. There it's explained how to disassemble the whole pda totally.
So long
HonkBB
HonkBB said:
Hi,
have no idea, but did you take a look into the HTC Service manual - which is available somewhere in the internet or in this forum. There it's explained how to disassemble the whole pda totally.
So long
HonkBB
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Click to collapse
I have service manual but no explanation how to change touch screen only.
it most probably is soldered on the lcd. the touchscreen is held with a little bit of double sided tape around the edges of the lcd itself. just pull it of gently. the touchscreen cable is soldered onto the lcd cable (on the back), so you can pull that off gently or desolder the whole cable of. you have to solder the new touchscreen cable back onto the lcd screen, just using a little bit of tape to connect the copper wires will not do (i found that out the hard way with my device). good luck, i wasn't able to solder the touchscreen back onto the lcd.
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I have it done already. The touch part is connected to the display with the metal sheet with small dots on the edges. You need a small screwdriver to loose the edges and you should be able to remove whole metal frame with the glass. Then is just enough to unsolder the wirings or cut them off(you'll probably don't need the old frame).
To remove the glass touch screen I did as dennisv9 says, I found that by using a cotton bud with surgical spirit dabbed around the edge of the screen helped to loosen the stickiness of the tape making it easier to remove the screen in one piece by gently prising with your fingernails and dabbing as you go with the spirit.
You must also gently remove the tape that holds the connector tail on the back of the metalwork with care, peel from the bottom upward and try to hold the cable in place with your finger to save breaking any tracks. Now gently unsolder the connections and that is it. To replace it use a little flux on the connector and hold it in place with some masking tape and with a clean soldering iron reheat the solder and let it melt and flow. That is basically it, now reseat the screen and gently remove the masking tape and put some decent tape over the connections to secure them properly.
it most probably is soldered on the lcd. the touchscreen is held with a little bit of double sided tape around the edges of the lcd itself. just pull it of gently. the touchscreen cable is soldered onto the lcd cable (on the back), so you can pull that off gently or desolder the whole cable of. you have to solder the new touchscreen cable back onto the lcd screen, just using a little bit of tape to connect the copper wires will not do (i found that out the hard way with my device). good luck, i wasn't able to solder the touchscreen back onto the lcd.
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Youtube it. WOWZERZ
Just removed the digitiser from my lcd screen. Thank you for posting the service manual, most helpful for taking the xda apart.
I used a craft knife and very, very gingerly worked along the top then each edge. Repeating the process until the blade was just under the digitiser. Then teased it gently away from the screen, starting on one side then the other. I did make a slight crack in the touchpad but the screen is perfect.
I feel I should point out that the Himalaya (xda 2) has a choice of two screens, each screen has a specfic touchpad. My model was the PH10B, which needed the screen from the xda 2i (alpine). Not sure if this is the case for every PH10B but the connectors are very different for each screen and digitiser so not backwards compatible.
I have seen screens with digitisers attached for just under £30 on ebay (with tool, screen protector and instructions). I would recommend doing the straight swap rather than faffing around like I have but considering I got the touchpad for £6 there is a saving to be made..... "He who dares Rodders!!!"
Thank you so much for the post. It's really useful.
wonderful! thanks for the info..
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Allen1 said:
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You must also gently remove the tape that holds the connector tail on the back of the metalwork with care, peel from the bottom upward and try to hold the cable in place with your finger to save breaking any tracks. Now gently unsolder the connections and that is it. To replace it use a little flux on the connector and hold it in place with some masking tape and with a clean soldering iron reheat the solder and let it melt and flow. That is basically it, now reseat the screen and gently remove the masking tape and put some decent tape over the connections to secure them properly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just don't clearly get the point, how to put the solder tip, does it on copper the wire or behind it? since the wire is so thin and mostly covered by sort of yellow thin plastic.
Too bad i just replaced my casing with a new one, i have a slight crack on my XDA iis screen, but i didnt replace it as i thought the glass was built in to the lcd screen.. at least now i know that its possible to remove just the glass..
I have the same problem ....
How to connect your LCD, it's not working ....
Any Ideas ?
and how, any ideas ??
So tonight I was replacing a broken digitizer for my HD2, it was anything but easy, but it wasn't as bad as I was expecting. Anyways, in the middle of reassembling, I hit the point where I need to reconnect the keypad. I was fighting with it for a good 10 minutes trying to get it connected. I grabbed a small flathead screwdriver to push the ribbon while my other hand guided the ribbon into the connector. In the process I broke the ribbon cable.
Of course, for the good of the phone, I've ordered up a new keypad. My question is, is there anything I can do in the interim? Can one say, line up the contacts on the ribbon and electrical tape it together? Or anything else?
Man just wait for the replacement keypad. Cause as thin and delicate as the ribbons are you will probably do more damage than good to the ribbon. I mean even if you got the ribbon aligned and tapped bake together. One you probably will not get a good connection between the two pieces of ribbon, and two the little copper strips are so thin you will probably cause micro cracks in them while you are fiddling with the two half's of the ribbon.
i cracked my digitizer a while back, and ordered a replacement. i used double sided tape to install. the first digitizer worked great, except only the top 10% of the screen was not responsive (pretty much the width of the task bar) so i contacted the people i ordered the new screen from, and they just sent me a replacement. i installed the second digitizer, and this time none of the screen works.
i tried to make sure both times not to put the tape to wide so it doesn't overlap into the clear screen part, only the black, but could this be a tape issue? anyone else have trouble with installing where parts or entire screen didn't respond?
thanks for your help.
Are you sure you have the digitizer/lcd ribbon in all the way to the connector on the motherboard? When I first put everything back together when I changed a digitizer, touch didn't work at all for me initially. At first I thought I had a bad digitizer. Then I looked closely at the ribbon and connector, and there's some flaps that stick out to the side on the ribbon cable. Make sure you push the ribbon in until the flaps stop you from going any further.
I have a G530, the Tmobile version, though fully unlocked, rooted, etc. I had cracked the digitizer and while waiting for a new one I dropped it again and the LCD popped out with the digitizer, disconnecting itself and would come back on after that. I got a new LCD and attached it to the board (disassembled) and all worked. I mounted the board back in the case and reattached everything but then only the backlight would turn on during initial boot. The connection seemed loose and after 2-3 reconnects I got my display to work, but while attaching the digitzer, the glass at the very top, just before the lcd starts broke... So I got ANOTHER lcd and digitizer (They're cheap) This LCD only gives the backlight at initial power on, with no display response, but no matter what I do, I can't get it to kick on like the last one.
I'm trying to get an idea if it is the new LCD, or if my connector on the board is broken, It looks like maybe a bit of plastic at the top broke off.. and is making the connector a bit loose. Since I get a backlight, anyone have any experience as to which is more likely broken? I'm not sure if power from the connector goes straight to the backlight, or if it goes to the LCD first, and if I would get a backlight with a bad LCD. These are cheap $25 LCD & Digitizer bundles from Amazon, like 'Mencia' brand so good chance I could have gotten a new one that is dead.
I'll try to get another up close shot of the connector, this magnifying app didn't focus in as well and you cant see the individual connectors as well, but they are fine, its the very top part of the connector looks a bit smaller. The bottom part has a piece of metal sandwiched between the plastic, but the top doesn't have a bit of plastic after the metal tab, of course, it could be absolutely nothing :s