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My phone has been off the charger for roughly 3 hours and my batter is already down to 66% .. I spent about 10 minutes in the market and that's about it.
Battery status looks like this-
Android OS 70%
Display 10%
Android System 5%
Cell Standby 4%
Phone Idle 3%
Market 2 %
Any ideas on what is going on with my android OS?
*Running completely stock*
Rooted phones have a few extra options like cpu settings unvolted kernel. Stock phones-try to lower you brightness, shorten screen time out, turn off gps and bluetooth. There is a app called juicedefinder that seems to help.
check what services are running maybe?
settings>applications>running services
dionysos911 said:
My phone has been off the charger for roughly 3 hours and my batter is already down to 66% .. I spent about 10 minutes in the market and that's about it.
Battery status looks like this-
Android OS 70%
Display 10%
Android System 5%
Cell Standby 4%
Phone Idle 3%
Market 2 %
Any ideas on what is going on with my android OS?
*Running completely stock*
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can click on Android OS and get a more detailed break down of what is using up the most juice in that subset... I am betting you downloaded an app at some point that is corrupt and running non-stop draining your battery.
pjcforpres said:
You can click on Android OS and get a more detailed break down of what is using up the most juice in that subset... I am betting you downloaded an app at some point that is corrupt and running non-stop draining your battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I clicked on it from the battery status but it only lists CPU Total, Data Sent, and Data Received. Doesn't break out what programs are doing it.
Under the running services is there a way to see the programs power usage or perhaps an app that will do this?..
On a side note my battery is now down to 30% with it's only uses since it was at 66% was taking it out of standby every once in a while to see the battery usage. Android OS is now up to 73% of the usage..
You either have a high refresh rate for data on a running service, or you downloaded a program with crappy code that doesn't kill itself when not in use.
List your installed programs.
dionysos911 said:
I clicked on it from the battery status but it only lists CPU Total, Data Sent, and Data Received. Doesn't break out what programs are doing it.
Under the running services is there a way to see the programs power usage or perhaps an app that will do this?..
On a side note my battery is now down to 30% with it's only uses since it was at 66% was taking it out of standby every once in a while to see the battery usage. Android OS is now up to 73% of the usage..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Odd... I am on a Desire ROM, but when I open up my system battery usage, AndroidOS isn't even showing, it has a long list of apps, and appears to be in order of battery usage. I could swear AndroidOS does the same.
Download Spare Parts from the market, then click on Usage Statistics to see which apps have been running the most, etc.
I am using Task Manager to autokill apps but I feel this tool is itself eating battery no??
How do you like this ??? ...(but: no WiFi/3G used !!)
Check out the battery & hours!
vegetaleb said:
I am using Task Manager to autokill apps but I feel this tool is itself eating battery no??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes.
Task manager are running service(battery eaters) that monitors and closes apps in saved states(not battery eaters) and other running services. It's counter intuitive to run autokill applications because it itself, is wasting battery killing stuff that doesn't need to be killed.
Task managers that autokill are good for applications that have ****ty code and don't close themselves, or for programs that hang up.
Nothing More
If you're autokill killing services alll day long, why are you even running the services? Just run then as needed.
my display is like 65/70% of the battery use
So you are using Cyanogen ROM
Try Emo or Desire Roms it should fix display battery problems
muncheese said:
Yes.
Task manager are running service(battery eaters) that monitors and closes apps in saved states(not battery eaters) and other running services. It's counter intuitive to run autokill applications because it itself, is wasting battery killing stuff that doesn't need to be killed.
Task managers that autokill are good for applications that have ****ty code and don't close themselves, or for programs that hang up.
Nothing More
If you're autokill killing services all day long, why are you even running the services? Just run then as needed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried more taskkiller programs (ATM, Taskiller, etc) and came to the conclusion, that the ONLY auto task killer which actually SAVES battery (compared to setup w/o task killer program) is Task Panel. Don't ask me why/ how, but with TaskPanel my N1 is fast en lean, battery lasts about 130% of native (w/o/ TaskPanel).
Of course, question is whether task killer necessary, but as I use lots of widgets, programs, in my experience task killing helps to keep my N1 fast..
vegetaleb said:
So you are using Cyanogen ROM
Try Emo or Desire Roms it should fix display battery problems
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
imm using modaco custom R13 rom
http://android.modaco.com/content/g...custom-rom-for-nexus-one-with-online-kitchen/
this one
this morning at 100% it was 8am
at 2PM im at 52% , its been 6hours with 3G on, light at 25%, everything else off.
with 30min music, 10min calling, some sms and a 50min TV show....
my iphone held quite a bit better
So after some systematic disabling of apps it seems the culprit was the Touch Input that came with the HTC_IME .. After disabling that I am back up to regular battery life and android OS is only using 2% of my battery again.
Sometimes the Android OS is stuck at 70% and the battery is drained really quickly. A reboot fix it. Next time I have to check what exactly is causing that Android OS is at 70% battery usage.
So after some systematic disabling of apps it seems the culprit was the Touch Input that came with the HTC_IME .. After disabling that I am back up to regular battery life and android OS is only using 2% of my battery again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
just to be sure, you're using nexus one? if so, can you elaborate more on what app or service you're talking about. thanks
that's weird because i am using the HTC IME keyboard and i have touch input running too, but my display takes up 90% of my battery all the time. must have been some weird glitch.
RogerPodacter said:
that's weird because i am using the HTC IME keyboard and i have touch input running too, but my display takes up 90% of my battery all the time. must have been some weird glitch.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes this is a Nexus One running stock ROM.
It may have just been a fluke with the version I downloaded from this forum. I am going to install the new version as soon as I get around to it. Not sure how it did it but as soon as I disabled it my battery usage went back to normal.
I was having this same issue on a MyTouch 3G running a 1.6 Rom (TheOfficial), and it appears it's a common problem on the Droid as well from some research. I was using HTC_IME. I just switched back to the default android keyboard and will see if it fixes my battery drain issue.
(My thread in the mytouch devel forum got locked for some reason, even though I consider this a legitimate concern for ROM development, since it's a rather major and hard-to-find defect.)
UPDATE: the "Android OS" task has stopped being a problem after I switch from HTC_IME, but "Cell Standby" is now taking up 50% of the battery, so the battery still drains, but slightly 30% slower.
My HD2 is running at around 20% CPU usage when idle according to BATTClock. This is even after a hard reset with just Batclock installed, no radios on, and HTC Sense shutdown (just on old Windows today screen). Is this normal? No wonder the battery life is so short.
My Touch Pro generally shows 1-2% CPU usage when idle even with phone and push email on.
Task manager doesn't show any processes or application using that amount of CPU. Is it just Battclock that is wrong or is something else going on? I have turned off all location services.
Nick
Interesting fact. Needs more research though...
I've tried everything I can think of, including switching off automatic backlight sensing, location settings, etc. and Battclock still shows around 20% with nothing running. Any ideas for a more sophisticated tool to monitor the CPU? Does anyone else with Battclock installed notice this?
And if battclokck use 20% of cpu ?
dorigny said:
And if battclokck use 20% of cpu ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
BattClock itself does use almost no CPU. But HD2 has the ability to lower the CPU speed. I use a Microsoft API to get the idle percentage. Apparently this Microsoft API does not correct for the CPU frequence change?
You can check with a Task Manager, which process consume how much CPU, like FdcSoft TaskMgr. Then you can also check if BattClock is wrong.
I am planning to add another method for measuring the CPU spent, so for now you can better first check if BattClock is right or not. I have a Touch Diamond and there the CPU percentage is reported the same as the Task Manager.
WEll, mine is 56% atm and i have no idea why.
the only reason i can think of is g-alarm and messenger live
On a device that changes the CPU clock to meet demands, CPU percentage means nothing if you don't have a way to know at the same time what the current clock is.
And yes, Battclock itself might not use a lot of CPU, but it seems its way to draw itself on top of the menu bar is not very efficient. A bit flaky, the redraws are not clean, and I wouldn't be surprised if the system calls it uses do use a lot of CPU.
kilrah said:
On a device that changes the CPU clock to meet demands, CPU percentage means nothing if you don't have a way to know at the same time what the current clock is.
And yes, Battclock itself might not use a lot of CPU, but it seems its way to draw itself on top of the menu bar is not very efficient. A bit flaky, the redraws are not clean, and I wouldn't be surprised if the system calls it uses do use a lot of CPU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mmmm....I wonder what you're basing your comments on. Are you saying that ZuinigeRijder is lying?
kenkiller said:
Mmmm....I wonder what you're basing your comments on. Are you saying that ZuinigeRijder is lying?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Qualcomm CPU, the one the HD2 has, reduces it's clock speed when it is not needed to run at full capacity to save battery life.
i.e. If the CPU is running at 1Ghz, and a program is using 1%, it will drop the clock speed (due to lack of activity). Say it then drops to 100Mhz, it will then be running at 10% of the CPU clock speed.
A simple way to check wether battclock influences the readings somehow (which I don't really believe) would be to turn it off and check, as zuinigerijder said, with fdcsoft advanced taskmanager.
BTW I also get ~20% usage when idle, in some manila interfaces I get to lowest values of 7%, but then back to ~15% and then again ~20%
No way to know the current clock of the cpu?
rp-x1 said:
The Qualcomm CPU, the one the HD2 has, reduces it's clock speed when it is not needed to run at full capacity to save battery life.
i.e. If the CPU is running at 1Ghz, and a program is using 1%, it will drop the clock speed (due to lack of activity). Say it then drops to 100Mhz, it will then be running at 10% of the CPU clock speed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you've hit the nail on the head. When I start a new program the CPU% drops briefly to 1-2% before climbing again. I guess this is the device ramping the processor back up before launching the program, hence dropping idle usage from 10-20% of say 100Mhzto 1-2% of 1000MHz.
Cheers
Nick
Extract ,power settings, from omnia 2,is it possible?Put it on htc hd2,in cab format,regulate the speed on the CPU and save the battery life?Anyone?
Be warned that this thread is now outdated. There might be more current guides available…
THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO MAKING YOUR BATTERY LAST LONGER ON YOUR HTC HD2 WITH ANDROID
OK I suppose this should be stickied as I've found numerous threads saying various stuff, but not a single thread, dedicated solely to this, providing useful and organized info.
Note: This guide is by no means definitive. Please feel free to correct me and add more tips, I'll be sure to add them to this post.
STEPS:
1. Try out a few ROMs and Radios to see which combination works best for keeping Android run as long as possible.
I have yet to find the best combo for my phone, but generally, the lightest ROMs with not much bloat in them (lots of items removed, fast startup) work best. With Radios it's all trial and error – a Radio that works miracles for one user is useless for another. You just have to try and see.
I know this is probably driving you crazy as you can read it everywhere around, but this can't be stressed enough: Don't flash your phone with a ROM/Radio you're not absolutely sure won't brick it. No one wants you to brick your expensive device. Read the flashing guides very carefully before you go on and do it.
Updating your build's Kernel is also a good idea.
2. Make sure you boot Android up as fast after running Windows as possible.
This one is crucial as it seems to affect your battery a lot.
To aid this, you can:
Download and install this (free) app (Exceller Multiple Build Loader is what I use, but you can choose something else) for the WM6. It enables you to autoboot into Android in the timespan of three seconds after running Windows, which is what you ideally want to do.
Disable HTC Sense in WM, it's unnecessary if you just want to boot into Android and takes a lot of time to load up. To do this, go to System settings, press Home, go to the Items tab and uncheck HTC Sense. You may want to check Windows Default to have at least the Zune-style interface to start from, but this isn't necessary if you're ok with an empty homescreen in WM.
3. Decrease the system load by automatically killing apps you no longer use.
This one gives a fair battery boost. By default, Android keeps all apps ready in RAM even if you press Home or Back to exit them to make them start quickly next time you need them and to keep their state. Most apps have a suspend mode which enables them to demand close to zero system resources as they run in the background, but some don't and close to zero isn't zero.
Download and install Automatic Task Killer (free) from the Market.
It gives you a list of the installed apps and enables you to uncheck those you don't want to autokill. It can also add your new apps to the list automatically.
Don't forget to uncheck applications you need to be running constantly, such as SetCPU (see below).
According to hastarin, this doesn't give you a battery boost. See the "What DOESN'T improve battery life" section. You can use AutoKiller Memory Optimizer, if you want to tweak your RAM – this app lets you set the limits for automatically killing apps only when you're low on RAM, which in turn may give you a battery boost.
4. Decrease the CPU performance when it doesn't need to perform at full speed.
I'm sure you're proud of your HD2's Snapdragon running at 1 GHz, I know I am, but it also drains a lot of battery when running on full speed.
NOTE: Using SetCPU with hastarin's R8 Kernel makes it redundant as the Kernel already has an interactive CPU governor in it. Thanks to socrated13 and atticus182 for this tip.
Download and install SetCPU ($1.99) from the Market.
It allows you to underclock your CPU to save battery. You can set profiles and play around with them. Generally, you don't want to set the minimum frequency too low as some tasks may then consume significantly more time to complete, wasting the energy you gained.
If you just want to try the app first to see if it helps, you can get it for free (search for SetCPU here at xda) and donate later by buying it on the Market (and please do, the developer put a lot of effort into it).
5. [INFORMATIVE] See how much energy your phone drains.
This one is not compulsory, but helps to get a general idea of how much energy your phone drains when you do such and such.
Download and install the Current Widget (free) from this forum. Just do a search on "current widget" and it should be the first post that comes up (don't worry, yes it's under Samsung Vibrant, but it works just as good for the HD2)
It allows you to put a widget on one of your home screens, where you can see the current your phone is currently draining. Can be set to update at various intervals. I prefer 30 s as it gives me enough time to shut down an app and look at it to see how much current the app itself is draining.
6. Decrease the brightness of your display.
This saves an incredible amount of battery life. I know you love your AutoBrightness, but it sets the brightness unnecessarily high, so until someone makes an AutoBrightness app with customizable overall brightness (once I get into programming apps for the Droid a bit, I might do it), you're left with doing this yourself.
Download and install the Brightness Rocker Lite (free) app from the market.
It displays a brightness bar everytime you bring up the volume control and thus lets you quickly change the brightness. Use the minimum brightness to see everything clearly and you should conserve a lot of juice.
7. Only use wireless functions when needed.
Having the mobile data connection, wifi, GPS or bluetooth enabled all the time causes severe battery drain. Sometimes even after you disconnect, the data connection connects again without you even knowing, downloading Over-the-Air updates or Weather, draining your battery unnecessarily.
Have a quick way to monitor which services are on and to turn them off (preferrably, have a widget/widgets on your home screen - I recommend the native Android widgets).
8. Recondition your phone for your battery after flashing each new Android build. (Thanks to t1h5ta3 for this tip)
Flashing a new Android build erases the battery stats and automatically rebuilds them based on voltages it sees, i.e. you need to recondition after each flash to get max battery life. The values are stored in the following file: data/system/batterystats.bin – if you delete this file, you set the new ground for making a new one from the value you want.
You can use the "battery life" widget by curvefish to show you temperature, voltage etc. What you're going for is voltage larger than 4.2 V on full charge.
To recondition:
Turn off the phone, plug it in, preferably overnight.
Boot the phone up while still pluged in.
Delete the batterystats.bin file ether through adb or terminal.
Drain the battery fully, until it powers down. Wait a minute or two and reboot it to drain it completely.
Congrats... your phone now knows corect voltage values for 100% and dead.
To delete the batterystats.bin file:
Find the means to be able to punch in lines of code. You can do this either by downloading and setting up the Android SDK or using a simplifying app like Droid Explorer. Do a google search for whichever you prefer.
Punch in the following code:
Code:
rm data/system/batterystats.bin
Or just find the file in Droid Explorer and delete it.
What DOESN'T improve battery life:
Getting a slower (and thus presumably less power-consuming) SD Card – because a slower SD card actually makes things worse as it needs more time to perform a task and thus keep the CPU busy a longer time.
Underclocking your CPU too much – similar reasons
Killing tasks automatically immediately after closing them – this apparently makes battery life worse, because when a program is in RAM, it doesn't consume system resources, but when you run it again, it does. Thanks to hastarin for the clarification.
Useful threads concerning battery life:
[REF] UPDATE: ALL GOVERNORS! Save battery while running ANY Android build (featured by the xda crew)
battery voltage / wipe batt stats
Battery Solution the **FINAL POST**
Time to Recharge to Full Battery
[TIPS] Thoughts on improving battery life for Android on the HD2
[UPD] 48hours + battery with mDeejay Froyo Z v1.7
Best SD Card for Overall Android Battery Life
Increase Battery Life [WinMo registry tweaks - Need confirmation] (do give this a try)
Hope this helps. If you have more tips or on-topic threads, I'll be delighted to add.
also see http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=827355
a properly conditioned battery does wonders for battery life. a fully charged battery shuld be over 4.2v . i was finding that depending on the the true state of charge when flashing, that is the level that was being assumed by the phone as " 100%" charged. ie: when i flashed my current rom it quit charging @ only 3.7xx volts... far from fully charged.
see my thread on the file to delete etc.
edit: after doing alot more research; heres what ive found...
for what its worth: Li-Io battery technology realy isnt different whether it be a phone, rc car, etc...
our batterys are a single cell. ie: rated 3.7v
4.2-4.25v is concidered by the industry as fully charged
3.7v is nominal voltage
3.2v "shorted" voltage : ie: voltage sag due to max discharge @nominal voltage
3.0v discharged
2.5v protection circuitry kicks in.
this jives with what i am now seeing on my phone after wipeing stats and calibrating...
it is also a industry standard to fully discharge ( 3.0v )about every 30 discharge cycles.
edit
Thanks, I added your tip in the first post (will add the link to your thread too, forgot to do it now and can't edit within 5 minutes of last edit yet)
no problem.
im new to playing with the hd2, but been playing with android for well, just about 2 years (early G1 adopter)
it shocked me coming to this forum and seeing the same question worded diferently atleast 7 times on the first page.
lets hope mod's will sticky this..
I'm no expert but from what I've been seeing the difference setCPU makes with the new hastarin kernel's is negligible. In fact I don't think you can use setCPU with with r8 anymore...
Excellent thread! All info was scattered throughout the forums, and this is a nice thread to sum up everything!
Indeed, using hastarin's R8 you won't need to use setCPU since hastarin has included an interactive governor in his kernel
R8 is a vast improvement over the older kernels, I would reccommend it to everybody that uses Android on his/her HD2!
Slampisko,
Very nicely done and there should be more informative guides like this!
Should be made an instant sticky.
PLEASE do yourself a favor and don't use an automatic task killer. Just because an app is in memory doesn't mean it's using CPU and therefore battery but it will use it to run it again after you killed it.
If you must tweak things here use Autokiller Memory Optimizer to change the levels the out of memory optimizer kicks in at.
Of course if you have an app that refuses to close or is just chewing cpu for no reason then manually killing it is fine.
More info linked in my FAQ in my sig.
Sent from my HTC HD2
Thanks for all the feedback! I'll edit the first post to include the additional info...
Hey guys, cool guide
I tried somes tuff, and read various posts, but somehow I cant figure out why my HD2 with MDJ FroYo Sense Clean v. 2.2 [kernel: hastarin R8] keeps sucking the battery empty so far.
Only program i installed in addition to the Android version mentioned above, is the Current Widget to the how much mA it drains.
Those are my settings:
MDJ FroYo Sense Clean v. 2.2 [kernel: hastarin R8]
GSM only (2G)
Data disabled
Wifi disabled
GPS disabled
Bluetooth disabled
syncing disabled (Background data + auto sync both disabled)
I also killed all running things that i think i dont need and still Current Widget shows me, battery drains in standby 55mA-60mA
So i was wondering what i am missing??? since most of the users get a standby mA of 8 or below... I tried for several days now, but somehow i cant find a solution...
just an update from me....
after conditioning the battery, im currently @27 hours since unplugging, gps, and wifi turned on the entire time, im @ 3.873v or 61%! granted, its been light usage its my secondary phone right now, but i am on the outskirts of service, and the week signal usualy sucks the battery...
ill update again , probably this time tomorow once it finaly dies...
<edit> as you can see in post #2, after 27 hours of up time, i still have higher battery voltage than what the phone was assuming was 100% on initial flashing of the rom...... just food for thought...
That's very interesting, t1h5ta3... Trying it right now, will edit post with results
<Quote>Killing tasks automatically immediately after closing them – this apparently makes battery life worse, because when a program is in RAM, it doesn't consume system resources, but when you run it again, it does. Thanks to hastarin for the clarification.<End>
Do not necessaryly agree. A 'program' is a collection of endless conditions and calculations that puts strain on the CPU. Unless a 'freeze program' function is built in to Android to literally freeze a program when its idle in ram the, the program will still continue to consume valueble cpu power just to stay idle albeit at a reduced rate. But having many program in memory in this state can tax the system performance draining the battery.
I don't have the file batterystats.bin in data/sytem!!!
Any help?
Edit: In fact i found it with root explorer search however i am enabling view of hidden files and i don't see it!
Does deleting it While in android by root explorer will cause any problem?!
@Life Engineer: Nope, I deleted it by Droid Explorer's console while having android up and running and nothing bad happened.
Slampisko said:
@Life Engineer: Nope, I deleted it by Droid Explorer's console while having android up and running and nothing bad happened.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
BTW i don't agree saying that conservative is the best governor; i guess many accept with me; latest tests showed that interactive is the best and it worked for me!
You may consider putting it in the thread
@Life Governor: I was thinking about that too. Will edit thread.
Question when it comes to draining the battery which side do I drain it on win or Android?
@WCENIGHTCRAWLER: Android I suppose, as Android needs to know the correct voltage for drained battery.
Slampisko said:
@WCENIGHTCRAWLER: Android I suppose, as Android needs to know the correct voltage for drained battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm unsure on this as well. Maybe I'm a bit behind on all the dev that's happened. But I remember if draining battery in Android, it messes up with the build on the SD card.
Might give this a go tonight and see.
Hi,
I noticed that most users can monitor their app, services battery usage through the default settings>about>battery use.
However, mine shows only display, idle, standby and calls. Do I have to enable something to be able to see them?
Bought the Galaxy S 4 days ago. Ex iPhone user, got tired of apple and decided to try android as an alternative. So far so good.
--
crazyhendrix
*#*#4636#*#*
Battery history and show the partial wake and cpu and 'other' usage gives a much better picture of battery eating apps than that battery usage one (this menu is exposed in the likes of Android System Info app, or Spare Parts, or SGS tools)
Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA App
Under 2.2 the battery history is not really detailed and just shows things that used a lot of power, in your case (and everyone else's) the display uses the most power and after that comes usually the radio and calls. If you want more details follow the instructions above or charge the phone and play 15min of angry birds or so, that should show up
Cool. Thanks guys!
--
crazyhendrix
Battery Calibration/Improving Battery life
Requirements:
Device needs to be rooted "Obviously".
Need to have Rom Tool Box Lite or Rom Tool Box Pro.
Some Basic Knowledge on how to use the app.
Note: Turn off Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, GPS, and Auto-sync if they are not in use. Hold down the notifications bar to disable them and activate the Power Saving mode which will make the device conserve energy under low battery state.
Battery Calibration Procedure.
1. Use your phone until the phone battery drains out completely and device gets switched off
2. Switch on the Device to make sure battery really is 0%.
3. Now plug in charger (Device turned off, Dont turn on the device)& leave it for charging until it reaches 100%
4. When the battery is full, switch on the phone, unplug the charger & check if the battery drops by 1 or 2% immediately.
5. If you notice battery drops immediately plug in charger once more (while the phone is on) & let it charge completely.
6. Once charging to 100% is done, don't disconnect the charger, open your root explorer, Provice RW permissions.
7.Search for 'DATA' Folder then 'SYSTEM' Folder.
8.In the 'System' folder you will find 'batterystats.bin' delete this file.
9.Exit Root Explorer and Use your phone normally unless it completly drains the battery(Dont connect your charger)
10.Power On your device and charge your device untill it reached 100%
11.Now you should enjoy the Samsung long Battery Life!!
Note: These methods are not permanent this worked for me so sharing with you.
Greenify your Apps:
NEW: Non-root working mode is now supported in 2.0+, Greenify is a convenient utility that will consequently hibernate battery hoarding applications that wait out of sight after you're done utilizing them.
Google Playstore & Thread
Titanium Backup:
Great battery life, wonderful execution and cool customization— we have seen one or more applications for these things. Presently we should see an alternate must have and a standout amongst the most evaluated applications for established Android gadgets. On the off chance that you got root benefits on your gadget, Titanium Backup is an exceptionally suggested application for you. You may discover various reinforcement applications at the Google Play Store, however none of them does the employment so splendidly and pleasantly.
Google playstore
The KERNEL can do some important things to help with battery saving as it is the controller of all things working in your phone:
1. Underclocking - if you feel your phone is fast enough, go ahead and lower the maximum frequency of your CPU, it will save power as the faster the CPU goes, the more energy it uses.
2. Undervolting - it's more complicated; every CPU requires certain amount of supplied voltage to run and the amount increases with the speed of CPU (clock frequency). For example 200Mhz requires only 0.9V while 1600Mhz requires 1.25V by default. The thing is, the higher the voltage, the higher the heat and of course power consumption. So the best way to lower it is to lower voltage - Samsung had to set voltage at the high enough level that every CPU they produce would work correctly but every CPU is different and some of them allow for lowering voltage and still remaining fully stable thus using less power to do the same work. Typically you can save about 0.05V but some CPU will allow as much as 0.1V to be saved. The same really goes for our GPU part, it can be undervolted as well. There are other parts in our phone that can be undervolted, like memory or controllers of various part but I have found (well in my phone) that saving were very small and caused instability so I would not recommend playing with them. We could think about undervolting our display as it is the biggest consumer of energy in our phone but actually we are doing it all the time The voltage supplied to the screen decides its brightness so if we were to lower the voltage it would just get dimmer
3. There are small savings to be had in various other parts controlled by the kernel:
- first and second thing are tied with SDcard - using it carries high power requirements - the less we use it, the better. Now we can't reduce to completely as all our data, apps and whole system is on it but we can reduce it's use by setting various caches.
a) read cache for internal and external SD combined with scheduler that minimizes reads and writes - so far the best scheduler created specifically for mobile SD use is FIOPS, so using that with a large buffer (maximum of 4096) is actually the best from energy standpoint.
b) system swap space - some kernels allow for creating a very specific kind of swap space, Android will use it once the free memory falls below certain point. Normally this swap space would be placed on SDcard but in this case it's inside a specific region of RAM. Why it is created like this? Because it can be easily compressed to keep more data, so basically we are using Android mechanisms and compressing memory so we can run more apps and keep them in physical RAM That means they are accessible faster than if we were to read them from SDcard and they use less power. Compressing and decompressing data as they go in and out of swap space is still far less energy consuming process then reading them from SDcard.
- third is governor configuration - governor is a system service that decides at what frequency should the CPU be working at every moment and how much cores should be enabled - this of course has great impact on energy consumption and on the smoothness of our experience with our phone. There are two schools of setting up governor and they base their decisions on two premises:
a) sharply increase CPU speed to get the work done fast and sharply decrease speed once it's not needed.
b) slowly increase speed and only so much to do what must be don then slowly decrease speed once you are done because you may have to do something again in a moment
There are pros and cons of both ways - way A means jumping to high frequency for a short time but high frequency uses comparatively large amount of energy, way B means slow increase but also means remaining in intermediate states for longer actually using energy for longer. I don't have any way to actually measure the resulting energy consumption but way A has a distinct advantage of creating much smoother experience so I use that myself.
- fourth is hotplug configuration - our CPU can dynamically enable and disable additional cores - the process is called hotplugging. Some governors are created specifically for controlling this process, the best, as far as I have tested, in this is Lulzactiveq. Hotplugging has to be wise as to the IF and WHEN to enable and disable additional cores, it measures how many "packets" of data are in queue to be processed and based on short history anticipates increase and decrease of workload.
All those interesting options are configured in scripts created for main contemporary kernels: Nadia, Devil and Agni and available HERE.
Latest OC / UV Scripts for Devil / Agni and Nadia Kernels for Note 2 are HERE
Guide to EXT4 to F2FS migration for Note 2 is HERE
CourtesyMat9V
Reserverd
very useful info , thanks :good:
rraaka said:
very useful info , thanks :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your welcome :good:
Very briefly stated.
Thanks for sharing
I read all your posts, This will help me in my next configuration for Emotion V7, Nadia with mat's script.
Now on Emotion V6 ....AGNi Pure Stock v4.2.2
yogi909 said:
Very briefly stated.
Thanks for sharing
I read all your posts, This will help me in my next configuration for Emotion V7, Nadia with mat's script.
Now on Emotion V6 ....AGNi Pure Stock v4.2.2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad you liked it.
The android system, unlike other OS's actually displays the battery reading from a written data config, known as battery stats in general. While there is, in perception no disadvantage to this method of reporting the average remaining battery life, it isn't the actual battery life you are getting, but the percentage read from your daily usage and then sends the information to the OS for displaying the battery life. Due to this, you can have the percentage misreported, so it is suggested to factory reset every 6 months on stock unrooted and if rooted wipe battery stats using rom toolbox free/pro every 2 weeks to ensure correct reporting of your battery life.
Note - This won't increase battery life, but will ensure correct reporting of battery percentage, which gets messed up quite quickly on custom roms(for some unknow reason).
Undervolting can cause battery drain or better battery life depending on your configurations, if you have the CPU set to running high many of the times(like from a governor or background apps that need regular wakelocks for syncing content) it will slow down the ramping up of frequencies during deep sleep(no effect when screen on) and thus it will hold a longer wakelock for the purpose, so undervolt carefully depending on your usage - mild to mid(medium to high undervolt), mid to high(low to medium undervolt), heavy(low to no undervolt).
Different governors have different scaling methods for CPU, thus will give better or worse battery life depending on your config and usage. A governor ramping up faster and scaling down slower will give better battery life in scenario of heavy usage because the device can go to deep sleep state faster and perform background syncs in an instant; while someone with low to mid(or a bit high also) would like to have a governor that ramps up slower and scales down slowly too so as to complete the syncing of files and media scan(if running) and make the device perform smoother and go into deep-sleep and remain in the state for longer times(though going to DS mode will be a bit slower than a fast downscaling governor) and will occasionally wake up for background syncs, but those will be longer, but won't have much effect on battery life because of lower frequencies being used and syncing complete before high frequency threshold is reached.
Depending on what a user needs for his daily usage it is a good idea to keep the rest of apps(preferably facebook, musixmatch, instagram and shazam) hibernated using something like greenify(which now supports auto-hibernation without root in the beta versions). Auto sync should only be enabled for apps that need it, like E-Mail, Google+, Gmail etc.and rest should be set onto manual sync.
Samsung has a habit of throwing in a lot of features onto their device, so keeping motions enabled, which you don't even use, except for a show-off, is a bad idea because it will drain battery. Exploring the settings menu to disable unneeded things can pay-off as a positive fruit for patience.
Keeping the storage clean is also a good way. A corrupted or highly filled up storage requires more passes to be read and thus keeps the media scanner process running for longer, which puts a strain on the battery life. Also, android OS is based of the 32-bit kernel of linux(for now, 64-bit is planned to be introduced after some time), so the media scanner has to look for data linearly in the storage blocks on the internal and external SD, unlike 64-bit where the data is arranged into random blocks which are then brought together as one and the media scanner can be informed of the address of the blocks due to more threads allowed to be run for same process and also a higher memory bandwidth allocated to each process so as to make it perform faster. Due to this reason, the media scanned isn't informed of all the addresses on the time of data writing and thus has to scan linearly looking for bits of data. So keep the storage clean and minimal. Cloud is a good way if you have decent internet and won't need access to the files stored there in regular period of times.
If using a custom rom make sure that it either comes with the modem for your region or flash the modem of your region after that, so as to ensure better signal stability and thus better lasting battery life. A correct modem can give more dBm of signal at the same place as compared to a wrong one.
A good way to have stable battery life is to enable power saving mode in areas with low signal and when on low battery life only, keep it disabled otherwise or it will slow down the race-to-idle for Deep sleep mode and hence cause a bit more battery drain just before deep-sleep state.
Having location services enabled all the time isn't a good idea either, use it only when needed and keep GPS off otherwise. Samsung allows toggling of most things from notification panel so use it.
Smart stay, smart pause, smart scroll all use the front camera for detection, which requires high voltage for operation(separate from CPU, uncontrollable by software) so keep them off unless needed.
Make sure to keep your device clean. How does this affect battery life? Dust and other things when collected around pins, sockets and connectors prevent efficient passing of electricity and thus forces the device to demand more energy, around half of which is taken away by these. Even metallic dust can have adverse effect due to it making the transfer more rapid and forcing the battery to supply the power, which is most probably wasted.
Automatic brightness is good during daytime, but useless during late evening and night, because brightness level doesn't need to be changed and it keeps the light sensor activated. Disable it after 7 Pm(you can also set up tasker or some other automation tool for this).
An Odexed rom provides more battery life as compared to deodexed, but at the cost of available customization as no mods will work and will instead crash the file related to them. Choose your side wisely and patiently.
If you're going to use some app, check if it uses GCM for providing notifications(usually google search at your service), if not look for an alternative which does. GCM doesn't even use marginal amount of battery and is more efficient in providing the notifications at time and also doesn't need a persistent notification.
Check for wakelocks thoroughly and remove the misbehaving apps or hibernate them if you need them on your device. Also, be sure to update the apps for receiving any fixes and optimizations, which can sometimes also decrease the required wakelock frequency for an app and thus preserve battery life.
Don't keep too much of auto updating widgets on homescreen, these only serve to drain the battery further by auto syncing.
if rooted, use Xposed and boot-manager to disable unneeded apps at boot time and thus preserve battery and time required for full boot-up.
If on a custom kernel use DAC direct(if available) for sounds. This bypasses the output mixer and thus preserves a little bit of battery required to produce and refine the sounds, instead utilize 128x oversampling and FLL tuning for an even better quality.
Don't reboot on a regular basis unless needed, this will eat up battery life quicker.
Don't use any task killer( a long debate on uselessness of those can be found on many sites, with a simple google search), the Android system's LMK is itself more than enough.
Be sure to research carefully on what you really need and what you don't and then use it. Don't go on downloading useless things which you'll delete later on because it creates a small entry in /data/data which gets scanned by media scanner due to being present in its path and thus will make the process longer and more battery hungry.
Some custom kernels allow for controlling deep sleep type. Usually these types are already defined in the kernel tweaking app itself. A person with heavy usage should use the IDLE deep sleep more so the device is able to wake up quickly and doesn't drain much battery in case of many wakelocks. Similarly a light user will benefit with AFTR+LPA due to CPU deep sleep, but this isn't advised for medium to heavy usage(use IDLE+LPA instead) because the wakelocks require a high power to even wake up the device, which will drain more battery if you use your mobile more, because many apps will try to acquire a partial/complete wakelock.
I know this is quite long, but read through carefully and you'll surely get better battery life.
Source : Experience and Google groups
Good knowledge
Thanx
cartmanez said:
Good knowledge
Thanx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
People are still spreading the batterystats.bin myth? *facepalm*
This has been totally and utterly disproven many, many times, including by core Android developer
So delete away. It doesn't calibrate or improve your battery life though.
I cannot study myself all technically like you what you mentioned in "[Experience][Share]My Usage and Testing of Custom kernels for Touchwiz Kitkat".
But above is well informative and now i get why i was getting worse battery life & longer wakelock by OC and UV with selective governer.
By testing different setting in AgniPureStock 4.2.2 today i reach 25 hr + battery life with my moderate usage.
I am sure above valued information, i will get most out of my battery.
Thank you very much KNIGHT97 for sharing.
aukhan, Hi mate, do i need to install greenify too?
botski said:
aukhan, Hi mate, do i need to install greenify too?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
aukhan said:
Yes
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if i use greenify i need to install xposed framework too?
botski said:
if i use greenify i need to install xposed framework too?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Xposed is optional. It is only for the experimental features. However, the developer has got 1 or 2 of those working without Xposed in the latest beta(you'll need to join the greenify G+ community for getting the beta, though)
Sent from my RPG with auto targeting
非常有用的信息，谢谢 ：好：
thanks for the info man.....its very helpful
aukhan said:
The KERNEL can do some important things to help with battery saving as it is the controller of all things working in your phone:
1. Underclocking - if you feel your phone is fast enough, go ahead and lower the maximum frequency of your CPU, it will save power as the faster the CPU goes, the more energy it uses.
2. Undervolting - it's more complicated; every CPU requires certain amount of supplied voltage to run and the amount increases with the speed of CPU (clock frequency). For example 200Mhz requires only 0.9V while 1600Mhz requires 1.25V by default. The thing is, the higher the voltage, the higher the heat and of course power consumption. So the best way to lower it is to lower voltage - Samsung had to set voltage at the high enough level that every CPU they produce would work correctly but every CPU is different and some of them allow for lowering voltage and still remaining fully stable thus using less power to do the same work. Typically you can save about 0.05V but some CPU will allow as much as 0.1V to be saved. The same really goes for our GPU part, it can be undervolted as well. There are other parts in our phone that can be undervolted, like memory or controllers of various part but I have found (well in my phone) that saving were very small and caused instability so I would not recommend playing with them. We could think about undervolting our display as it is the biggest consumer of energy in our phone but actually we are doing it all the time The voltage supplied to the screen decides its brightness so if we were to lower the voltage it would just get dimmer
3. There are small savings to be had in various other parts controlled by the kernel:
- first and second thing are tied with SDcard - using it carries high power requirements - the less we use it, the better. Now we can't reduce to completely as all our data, apps and whole system is on it but we can reduce it's use by setting various caches.
a) read cache for internal and external SD combined with scheduler that minimizes reads and writes - so far the best scheduler created specifically for mobile SD use is FIOPS, so using that with a large buffer (maximum of 4096) is actually the best from energy standpoint.
b) system swap space - some kernels allow for creating a very specific kind of swap space, Android will use it once the free memory falls below certain point. Normally this swap space would be placed on SDcard but in this case it's inside a specific region of RAM. Why it is created like this? Because it can be easily compressed to keep more data, so basically we are using Android mechanisms and compressing memory so we can run more apps and keep them in physical RAM That means they are accessible faster than if we were to read them from SDcard and they use less power. Compressing and decompressing data as they go in and out of swap space is still far less energy consuming process then reading them from SDcard.
- third is governor configuration - governor is a system service that decides at what frequency should the CPU be working at every moment and how much cores should be enabled - this of course has great impact on energy consumption and on the smoothness of our experience with our phone. There are two schools of setting up governor and they base their decisions on two premises:
a) sharply increase CPU speed to get the work done fast and sharply decrease speed once it's not needed.
b) slowly increase speed and only so much to do what must be don then slowly decrease speed once you are done because you may have to do something again in a moment
There are pros and cons of both ways - way A means jumping to high frequency for a short time but high frequency uses comparatively large amount of energy, way B means slow increase but also means remaining in intermediate states for longer actually using energy for longer. I don't have any way to actually measure the resulting energy consumption but way A has a distinct advantage of creating much smoother experience so I use that myself.
- fourth is hotplug configuration - our CPU can dynamically enable and disable additional cores - the process is called hotplugging. Some governors are created specifically for controlling this process, the best, as far as I have tested, in this is Lulzactiveq. Hotplugging has to be wise as to the IF and WHEN to enable and disable additional cores, it measures how many "packets" of data are in queue to be processed and based on short history anticipates increase and decrease of workload.
All those interesting options are configured in scripts created for main contemporary kernels: Nadia, Devil and Agni and available HERE.
Latest OC / UV Scripts for Devil / Agni and Nadia Kernels for Note 2 are HERE
Guide to EXT4 to F2FS migration for Note 2 is HERE
CourtesyMat9V
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks man....you rock:good::good:
What about using Juice Defender (available in play store)? I used the basic one first and then ended up buying ultimate because I saw good results. Now the location (using cell tower) based WiFi enable/disable extends my battery life significantly.
The is one of the first apps I install once I feel a new flash is stable.
If you have the Samsung "Toolbox" utility, that floats a button on the screen to access your choice of five apps from anywhere - turn it off. It causes the "security storage" process to peg at 20% all the time the screen is on if "Toolbox" is enabled. When "Toolbox" is disabled, "security storage" process drops to a couple of percent when the device is idle. There's quite a saving on battery drain.
Battery calibration
I have a rooted Nook HD+ running Android 7.1 and I decided to calibrate its battery.
I ran it down to zero as recommended then attached it to the mains.
All I have had for several hours is a black screen with just the charging symbol (battery with lightning inside it). Nothing else, no progress bar, no charge %, nothing Androidy.
Is this as it should be and should I just wait for several more hours or is there something wrong?
Many thanks.