Does the Prophet have an internal Battery??? - JAMin, XDA Neo, S200 General

Hey, my time and date changes back everytime i take out the Battery. Now i wonder if there is aproblem with the internal Battery and if there is any and how I can replace it? I already Formatted the Firmware again, did not help always changes back to some 2006 date 12:00.
What is happening there?
could it be that the OVerclocking did that to my internal Battery?
I run the BatteryStatus Plugin on 260 MHZ
Thanks

The prophet has no internal battery as far as I know... Being a WM5 device there's no chance of data loss if the main battery drain out so no need for the internal battery to keep data safe on the device as it was for the WM2003 devices... Think this is the correct explanation on why it doesn't have one...

Then why does my Time reset everytime i take the battery out. Is that a hardware problem?? whats the deal???

I told you... it doesn't have an internal battery...

Allright man, dont get pissed I just want to Know why my time is being reset everytime i take out the battery, should i send it in??
please answer

WM5 devices DO have a internal battery. It is not as big as massive as those in WM2003's version where it needs to keey the memory runnning to keep the data. The one in WM5 devices are probably all tablet little battery. AFAI can remember, there are cases of Wizard forgetting the time/date too and an investigation has been launched to search for the internal battery.
UPDATE: Read this for Wizard
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=279384&highlight=internal+battery+wizard
it has an internall backup (small) battery, although it is actually a capacitor that acts as a batter. I presume the Prophet has one too. BTW, as the thread mentioned, you can get this problem fixed if you were to charge your phone directly (rather than charging the battery). Read the thread for more info.

c3l5o said:
I told you... it doesn't have an internal battery...
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Click to collapse
YES IT DOES HAVE AN INTERNAL BATTERY.
The Prophet (and all WM5 PPC) does have an internal battery (very small but not a capacitor) for not forgetting the time/date when you take out the main battery.
exxi, your Prophet's internal battery is probably dead.

I have the same problem.
Could be the result of a too high o/c attempt, or the vodka that went into my phone.... who knows ?
I'll send it back on warranty soon, I hope I'll get a working backup battery afterwards ^^

thanks for the responses guys, I really appreciate it, i have the feeling that the o/c did this to my internal battery, I hope nothing else is damaged. I am going to send it in soon, lets see what happens.
Thanks guys!!

Since a lot of users are having that trouble, there's much chances our devices have faulty batteries. For (main) battery switching, if you're fast enough, you can switch them in about 2s, and won't lost date & time. If you're not, well, practice

exxi said:
thanks for the responses guys, I really appreciate it, i have the feeling that the o/c did this to my internal battery, I hope nothing else is damaged. I am going to send it in soon, lets see what happens.
Thanks guys!!
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Click to collapse
O/C does nothing to your internal battery My first prophet of the first stock was o/c ed from the first time omap clock was "discovered" and is still flawless

victoradjei said:
O/C does nothing to your internal battery My first prophet of the first stock was o/c ed from the first time omap clock was "discovered" and is still flawless
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd guessed that not many will discover this 'flaw' unless they swap battery/sim frequently .. as like me, I'm not sure if I have the problem or not.

shayd said:
YES IT DOES HAVE AN INTERNAL BATTERY.
The Prophet (and all WM5 PPC) does have an internal battery (very small but not a capacitor) for not forgetting the time/date when you take out the main battery.
exxi, your Prophet's internal battery is probably dead.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you like capital letters, YES IT IS A CAPACITOR (well, at least I'm sure for the Wizard and unlikely HTC will be using different technology on different devices). Attached the screen shot of the service manual of the Wizard. Note the picture and the word "Golden cap replacement", which actually called 'Gold capacitor', is a capacitor, which acts like battery. Read this for more info.
http://www.ttiinc.com/object/FP_pan_goldcap.html
Electric Double Layered Capacitors, known as “Gold Capacitors”, offer the highest volumetric efficiency of all capacitor technologies. It is often compared to a secondary battery. Unlike batteries, the Gold Capacitor does not rely on a chemical reaction to produce electric current rather it is a storage cell that utilizes the absorption/release reaction of ions.
Gold Capacitor has no limit to the number of charge and discharge cycles it can sustain, and does not need a charging circuit. Repeated rapid charge and discharge cycles are also acceptable.
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Click to collapse
Also note that, it said it needs to be soldered to have it removed. You don't usually solder in a battery, the heat from the soldering will probably damage the battery of that size.
Anyway, having said that, capacitor can be damaged anyway. My Citizen Eco-Drive watch, which uses a cap to store energy, went to the 'hospital' for a change of a faulty capacitor that won't store charges for more than a day (which specification said it will store up to 3 months).

victoradjei said:
O/C does nothing to your internal battery My first prophet of the first stock was o/c ed from the first time omap clock was "discovered" and is still flawless
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You may be right, but you can't tell that's not the o/c fault just because it didn't happen on your device, that's not logic at all.

Hello hanmin,
c3l5o said:
I told you... it doesn't have an internal battery...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that is why I used capital letters.
hanmin said:
If you like capital letters, YES IT IS A CAPACITOR (well, at least I'm sure for the Wizard and unlikely HTC will be using different technology on different devices). Attached the screen shot of the service manual of the Wizard. Note the picture and the word "Golden cap replacement", which actually called 'Gold capacitor', is a capacitor, which acts like battery. Read this for more info.
http://www.ttiinc.com/object/FP_pan_goldcap.html
Also note that, it said it needs to be soldered to have it removed. You don't usually solder in a battery, the heat from the soldering will probably damage the battery of that size.
Anyway, having said that, capacitor can be damaged anyway. My Citizen Eco-Drive watch, which uses a cap to store energy, went to the 'hospital' for a change of a faulty capacitor that won't store charges for more than a day (which specification said it will store up to 3 months).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am probably wrong abut it an actual bateery, as you said it is a capacitor', but that is not the issue.
the issue is all WM5 devices (not only Prophet and wizard that by the way have exactly the same internal battery / CAP) does have some kind of an internal battery , that keep the date and time for a few minutes, when the main battery is taken out.

Related

Is the memory erased if the battery drains completely?

Excuse me it might sound dumb, BUT I had a year ago a Qtex 2020i and they said that if the battery ran out completely I would have lost all the data , kinda like a hard reset. Is this still an issue on the Hermes? I guess not, but I have to be sure, as I wanna do some power cycles to optimize the battery life. And this implies draining it completely....
So, is it safe for my data? Or I would lose it , like on the 2020 i?
Thaks
No it won't erase the memory.
Do current batteries still need conditioning? I've never conditioned one...
V
Yes I myself prefer to do that with all my new batteries (I used many many smartphones) so that I can achieve its maximum potential. At least it works for nokia batteries...
WinMo 5 has persistent storage so any device with it should be ok.
Do current batteries still need conditioning?
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Click to collapse
I think I read somewhere that lithium ion batteries don't have any 'memory effect' and therefore don't need conditioning.
Could be wrong though...
if u read even the nokia manuals...u will KNOW that you are wrong.... I dont do that to avoid the memory effect, BUT to get the maximum performace from the batery.
vijay555 said:
Do current batteries still need conditioning? I've never conditioned one...
V
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Click to collapse
Nope. See http://www.batteryuniversity.com/partone-12.htm :
"Lithium-ion is a very clean system and does not need priming as nickel-based batteries do. The 1st charge is no different to the 5th or the 50th charge. Stickers instructing to charge the battery for 8 hours or more for the first time may be a leftover from the nickel battery days. "
It is not about the charging time.......It is about the power cycles... I am not very clear I guess..... Believe me , I am right..)

Universal suddenly shuts down; battery or other problem?

I recently acquired a HTC Universal for dirt cheap, and have found the first problem to explain the low price: Whenever I'm using a "power-hungry" application (TCPMP, Internet via Wi-Fi) it eventually just blacks out. Full shutdown without warning.
When trying to reactivate the unit, it reboots as if after a soft reset.
In fact, if I try to reactivate it too quickly, even the reboot fails.
None of the above happens when on external power.
This leads me to think that it's nothing worse than a battery that's lost its mojo, but since there is no warning about low battery, and when the reboot finishes successfully even SPB says the battery is somewhere around 70%, I want to run this by you guys.
What do you think? Just go get a new battery, or is there something else going on which will make buying a new battery just a waste of money?
I'd say it's the battery, 99% sure.
I'ts gotten old and its voltage breaks down under load. If you have proper equipment and a glimpse of an idea what you're doing you should drain about 300mA from the battery and measure its output voltage.
You'll most likely see it going below 3.0V quickly.
I'm afraid I don't have that equipment, but all I really needed to hear was that it's probably the battery.
Now I can stop thinking about it and just order a new batery.
Unexpected reboot - Apparently bettery issue
Hey Holybear, my device shows exactly same symptom, If possible let us know if bat replacement solved the issue>
Holy Bear said:
I recently acquired a HTC Universal for dirt cheap, and have found the first problem to explain the low price: Whenever I'm using a "power-hungry" application (TCPMP, Internet via Wi-Fi) it eventually just blacks out. Full shutdown without warning.
When trying to reactivate the unit, it reboots as if after a soft reset.
In fact, if I try to reactivate it too quickly, even the reboot fails.
None of the above happens when on external power.
This leads me to think that it's nothing worse than a battery that's lost its mojo, but since there is no warning about low battery, and when the reboot finishes successfully even SPB says the battery is somewhere around 70%, I want to run this by you guys.
What do you think? Just go get a new battery, or is there something else going on which will make buying a new battery just a waste of money?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I knew I wasn't the only one withthat problem. I think i've prooved it to be a battery faultt. as if you taake te battery out after it gets to that stage where you just can not get it too complete a boot up without it shuttinng down again
take out battery ,place finer oveer all battery trmminals and plug inn your mainss charger it should now boot up and runn fin off the charger unless your finger slips off the battery terminals. thisshsowws it's the temprature sensor in the battery.
I posted a more in depth reply to a guy in the wm6 threads as wifi heeaating up battery wass shutting off his device as well
@ cyberjak
Hmm, the idea that a temperature sensor in the battery causes this problems is interesting. I'd just expect the device not being cappable of rebooting instantly, because there should be a hysteresis implemented in the battery's protection circuit.
I had the exact same problems and described them elsewhere, but in my case it surely wasn't an issue of temperature.
I'd suggest to take out the battery and wait about an hour for the device and the battery to cool off. Most likely the battery will then take a complete boot but shut down soon after that - without having gotten near to "warm" yet.
If this happens you can be sure that the battery itself is dead without needing to measure anything.
Okay, to tell you what I tried:
I ran the Universal until it spontaneously went dead.
Started bootlaoder to see how much longer it would work on that. Was a bit longer, what with low energy consumption, but soon even that wouldn't stay on for long.
Then decided to try the "old wives' tale" (meaning I don't know whether there's any sense behind it or not) of putting the battery in the freezer for a little while.
When I took it out and let it get back to normal temp, I plugged it in and after a while booted the Universal. It showed 40% battery, lower than it had ever gotten lately.
Recharged for a full day.
Tried TCPMP: went dead after three minutes.
So in my experience the above didn't help battery performance.
Am going to get a new battery in a few days; I'll keep you posted on progress as I try with a fresh battery.
I had the same problem, whenever i did something cpu intensive, it would just black out.
I just bought a new 3100mAh battery. Best thing i ever did. It might be thicker now with the new battery, but it actually feels more comfortable as a phone. Plus the new battery only cost 13 odd quid, so definately well worth it. Oh and it doubles the battery life (3100/1500 = ~2... duh)
Hope that helps.
oh you know wat i have the same problem with my Jasjar and the bigest problem that there is no batteries on market for Jasjars in my country....its looks like im living in Jurassic Century!!!
If you want i can send you a battery xplayer, they're quite cheap here.
Rc-Blob said:
I had the same problem, whenever i did something cpu intensive, it would just black out.
I just bought a new 3100mAh battery. Best thing i ever did. It might be thicker now with the new battery, but it actually feels more comfortable as a phone. Plus the new battery only cost 13 odd quid, so definately well worth it. Oh and it doubles the battery life (3100/1500 = ~2... duh)
Hope that helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ordered a regular battery replacement, but maybe I'll add a 3100mAh as well.
I could use it as a media player during long train trips.
Holy Bear said:
Okay, to tell you what I tried:
I ran the Universal until it spontaneously went dead.
Started bootlaoder to see how much longer it would work on that. Was a bit longer, what with low energy consumption, but soon even that wouldn't stay on for long.
Then decided to try the "old wives' tale" (meaning I don't know whether there's any sense behind it or not) of putting the battery in the freezer for a little while.
When I took it out and let it get back to normal temp, I plugged it in and after a while booted the Universal. It showed 40% battery, lower than it had ever gotten lately.
Recharged for a full day.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I revived two batteries by intense cycling to work quite well again. They still black out at 20%, but only under extreme load (active gsm connection, active wifi, bluetooth and having to render a webpage).
But you should be able to discharge them below 25% at least. Else they're most certainly "too dead" already. And you should do at least 3-4 cycles.
My guess would be that the freezer finished your battery off. I don't understand how this method should work anyway, as lower temperatures reduce the time affected capacity loss. Actually the best place to store a LiPo or LIo battery is the fridge, charged about half the way.
But I also ordered two 3100mAh batteries. I'm using the Uni as a laptop replacement and the permanent wifi usage together with some cpu load and the backlight kicks the battery's ass quite hard.
In Germany the China 3100mAhs are overpriced and it's hard to get your hands on an external charger, but on Ebay.co.uk there's a seller that offers battery and charger as a bundle for about 15€. This will give me a solid 6000+mAh per day and should be enough to forget about virtually every setting related to power consumption
@ xplayer
If you haven't donw already, take a look at Ebay.com, co.uk etc and look if one of the sellers there will ship to kurdistan. You may be lucky
Rc-Blob said:
If you want i can send you a battery xplayer, they're quite cheap here.
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Click to collapse
Oh Thanx Rc-Blob....bt there is No way even to send me no addresses no posting in my country...am from kurdistan of Iraq...thanks again its looks like u sent me one...bt I even have brother in USA he can't send me...except if some one come from there so i have to wait...thanks buddy...
EvilJogga said:
I revived two batteries by intense cycling to work quite well again. They still black out at 20%, but only under extreme load (active gsm connection, active wifi, bluetooth and having to render a webpage).
But you should be able to discharge them below 25% at least. Else they're most certainly "too dead" already. And you should do at least 3-4 cycles.
My guess would be that the freezer finished your battery off. I don't understand how this method should work anyway, as lower temperatures reduce the time affected capacity loss. Actually the best place to store a LiPo or LIo battery is the fridge, charged about half the way.
But I also ordered two 3100mAh batteries. I'm using the Uni as a laptop replacement and the permanent wifi usage together with some cpu load and the backlight kicks the battery's ass quite hard.
In Germany the China 3100mAhs are overpriced and it's hard to get your hands on an external charger, but on Ebay.co.uk there's a seller that offers battery and charger as a bundle for about 15€. This will give me a solid 6000+mAh per day and should be enough to forget about virtually every setting related to power consumption
@ xplayer
If you haven't donw already, take a look at Ebay.com, co.uk etc and look if one of the sellers there will ship to kurdistan. You may be lucky
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hhh ok buddy you too for care....but there is realy no way i have to wait tell some one(my brothers friend) come from USA so he can get me one from there....its ok...i can use it yet as a normal mobile...i have some other devices for multimedia right now i can wait there is no any other ways....thanks...
Rc-Blob said:
If you want i can send you a battery xplayer, they're quite cheap here.
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Click to collapse
Thanx for helping the guy,yo folks on xda are the best
Just to give you all the end of the story:
I ordered a regular replacement and a 3200 mAh one, and both have returned my Universal to a well-used life.
Thanks again to everyone helping me out here.
For you guys does the device switch off only when the battery is low, or any time. Cause I have this problem as well, and I was SURE that it wasn't a battery problem until I read this thread. The phone switches off intermittently, sometimes after only 3' talk time right after it had been charging for a full 8 hours! Also, usually if I let it sit there for a few hours I could then turn it back on and it would last a full day, so I knew it wasn't due to low battery.
The overheating theory would explain my problem, as, now that I think about it, all my seemingly-random shutdowns were during radio activity (making or receiving calls, especially when the phone was searching for signal, or wifi, which would almost instantly kill it). Strange that it overheats like this, most phone batteries simply run out of charge faster and faster until they can't hold a charge at all, but mine lasts almost as long as it always lasted even though it's 2 years old - unless I get the shutdown thing of course.
I asked this in another thread, but since this one is full of people who got replacement batteries I'll repeat my question here as well:
How much thicker than the standard battery are the 3100 and the 4200mAh ones?
I also got this problem recently, so I bought a new battery and although it's only a 1600mAh battery it runs great again
hey roodkapje ive got that same problem with my battery for my spv m5000 the bad news is that i cant get that batery in barbados so im all out to see

Battery Drains to early!

hey people tell me what could be the problem?? My battery drains all in a day or sometimes i have to recharge it twice in a day, but without any use it drains in two days?? what do you think is the problem?? Is the Battery Weak???
Second if i wont to buy a new battery how many mAh should it be?? My current is 1250mAh. Would a 1800mAh be of the same size as this one? will it work and fit fine in the case??
Please do reply. Thanks in Advance.
First, some more information is needed:
Are you overclocking? This is the single most likely candidate for faster battery consumption.
Are you running anything that requires a lot of processor power? Animations like the TouchFlo Cube and PointUI are hard on batteries.
How old is the phone, and subsequently the battery?
Are you leaving a lot of programs active but minimized? This can also hit the processor harder, which results again in faster battery drain.
With regards to battery replacements, I will let someone with experience in that area give you suggestions (and I will eavesdrop, because I have an old phone and am concerned about replacement myself...).
Myrddin Wyllt said:
First, some more information is needed:
Are you overclocking? This is the single most likely candidate for faster battery consumption.
Are you running anything that requires a lot of processor power? Animations like the TouchFlo Cube and PointUI are hard on batteries.
How old is the phone, and subsequently the battery?
Are you leaving a lot of programs active but minimized? This can also hit the processor harder, which results again in faster battery drain.
With regards to battery replacements, I will let someone with experience in that area give you suggestions (and I will eavesdrop, because I have an old phone and am concerned about replacement myself...).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. Im not oveclocking
2. Im running Touch Commander Suite
3. My Phone is 2 years old.
4. I leave no program minimized except one tht runs in background.
Now what can you advice?
The 1250mAh is the standard size battery for the Wizard. Anything bigger than 1250mAh will be thicker and need a bigger battery cover. I replaced mine with a new 1250mAh after 18 months of use because I didn't want to make my phone any thicker.
rmcknight said:
The 1250mAh is the standard size battery for the Wizard. Anything bigger than 1250mAh will be thicker and need a bigger battery cover. I replaced mine with a new 1250mAh after 18 months of use because I didn't want to make my phone any thicker.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How much time does your new 1250mAh battery takes to discharge:
1.When nothing spcl is done except reading SMS or Calling?
2.When loads of work is done like listening songs, watching videos, using Wifi/GPRS?
xda2_haseeb said:
1. Im not oveclocking
2. Im running Touch Commander Suite
3. My Phone is 2 years old.
4. I leave no program minimized except one tht runs in background.
Now what can you advice?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How about WiFi? Do you leave it on? How about GPRS? Both radios are power-hungry, and should be shut off while not in use. Sure, it means a little wait on starting programs that require a connection, but it also means having enough battery to finish what you're doing. Which, if you've ever been lost in a strange town without a Thomas Guide, you'll agree is damned important.
Short of that, and the obvious (and relatively cheap) alternative of buying another battery, I have to point the finger at Touch Commander Suite.
Run Task Manager 3.1 (Dotfred) on your device. If TCS is using less than 5MB while running, I'll eat my hat (you'll just have to trust that I've eaten it, though... ). More crap in RAM means less battery life. It's not as dramatic a drain as the WiFi radio (the worst culprit of all), but it's probably in the top 5.
1.I dont leave anything on when im not using it.
so What would you say? should i remove Touch COmmander and install SPB Mobile Shell or anyother SPB software? will they be less battery consuming?
...
hasseb try a diferent rom...it may be the software that is draining your battery....anyway a battery shows signs of use after 2 years and a half....so if another rom doesn't do the trick...i think it's time to buy a new 1250mAh battery...other batteries can damage your phone because they have a larger energy output....and congratulations...you are a senior member now
Thanks for the info and thanks for congratulating me on becoming Senioe member. I guess the real problem was Touch Commander Suite, i uninstalled it but still timing is less so i have to buy a new battery.

[HARD MOD]Dock + 750GB HDD + Double Battery

Edited 01/04/2012
If you're about to ask me if I've considered an ssd instead, know this. I may be an idiot, but I'm not that stupid. My IQ may be around 30 or so, but It's just high enough for me to figure out that an ssd is a much better option than an hdd. Jesus christ, stop asking this question already. The reason I've opted to put in an hdd instead of an ssd is because of cost. It cost me about $50 to for a 750GB hdd. An ssd with the same capacity will cost an arm and a leg. Go ahead and look that up.
So, please, if you're going to suggest I use an ssd, consider reading the above paragraph. And if you're going to email me telling me what an idiot I am for using an hdd instead of an ssd (like that turd a couple days ago), then also consider pushing the donate button right below my name so I have enough money to buy an ssd with comparative capacity. Goodness...
People, just because this is the internet doesn't mean everyone else beside you have an IQ of a potato. Get over yourself already.
****************************************************************************************************************************
I'm making a new thread because this is an entirely different mod than the other one.
So, I've added 2 more battery cells parallel to the other ones, doubling the capacity while maintaining the voltage. in addition, I've also added a 750 GB HDD.
Unlike the other mod, which suffered no deformation, there is a little bit of deformation in this mod. I can still close the netbook form. And if you look, you can see the curvature of the keyboard dock. It's not very noticeable, but if you know it's there you can definitely see it. Here are the pictures. I am currently testing out the battery capacity to see if it's really doubled like it's suppose to. We'll see, I guess.
By the way, while I am very happy with my result, despite the slight deformity to my dock, I definitely recommend against this for anyone else.
Speaking of which, how do I recalibrate the battery indicator? Looks like it's dropping at exactly the same speed as before.
goodintentions said:
Speaking of which, how do I recalibrate the battery indicator? Looks like it's dropping at exactly the same speed as before.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm new to tablets, but on my Android phone you can run a app like battery calibration and it deletes batterystat.bin file.
Btw, cool mods I would be really interested in double battery.
maciek82 said:
I'm new to tablets, but on my Android phone you can run a app like battery calibration and it deletes batterystat.bin file.
Btw, cool mods I would be really interested in double battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It only affects the tablet battery. I can't get a definite answer from all my searches how to recalibrate the dock battery.
Aw, the deformation is a no in my book, but I think the mods themselves are awesome. If I tried this, I think I'd go for more batteries because I can't find enough stuff to fill my 32g usd cards anyway.. (or a secret compartment storing unmentionables).
goodintentions said:
It only affects the tablet battery. I can't get a definite answer from all my searches how to recalibrate the dock battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ahhh.... Yes forgot about dock battery. Don't own one
asdfuogh said:
Aw, the deformation is a no in my book, but I think the mods themselves are awesome. If I tried this, I think I'd go for more batteries because I can't find enough stuff to fill my 32g usd cards anyway.. (or a secret compartment storing unmentionables).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't blame you. The deformation is hardly noticeable, but it is there. I'm actually happy with this setup. The slight deformation doesn't bother me. As long as I can still close the netbook form.
Now, if only I could find a way to calibrate the dock battery.
Impressive work! Let us know how long the battery lasts.
fliparsenal said:
Impressive work! Let us know how long the battery lasts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I gotta figure out a way to recalibrate the dock battery first. It's dropping at exactly the same rate as when I only had 2 cells. Can't freakin' figure out how to do this.
By the way, I think I saw that you said your method is more refined and less risky now in another thread; is the method different, or have you refined your skills? If the method is different, could you post a tutorial? I think I might attempt it after I find out if I got into any good grad programs.. (because then I will know whether or not I will have some amount of money to burn for no damn reason ).
asdfuogh said:
By the way, I think I saw that you said your method is more refined and less risky now in another thread; is the method different, or have you refined your skills?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Both, actually. Before, I was both stumbling around blind and doing things in not so efficient and safe way. My soldering skills have improved greatly and I have also refined my procedure to involve no risk at all. It's all in the wrist, man.
If the method is different, could you post a tutorial? I think I might attempt it after I find out if I got into any good grad programs.. (because then I will know whether or not I will have some amount of money to burn for no damn reason ).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uh... no. This mod voids your warranty. I will take my methods with me to the grave.
PS - Isn't it obvious from the photos?
Added by edit.
Ok, my conscience got the better of me. There is something I left out of the photos. A key ingredient to making this whole mod work. Without this very simple but critical thing that is covered up by other components in the dock, the mod might as well be a piece of brick. It took thousands of hours and millions of dollars of research to figure out this one small piece of modification to make the whole thing work. My dock was sitting there for almost a month dead before I brought it back to life with this thing I'm speaking of.
In other words, don't try this. Trust me, you'll regret it not knowing what this thing I'm talking about is. It took me a whole month to figure out this thing. Thinking back, my goodness, the solution was so simple. And yet it took me a whole month to solve it.
Added by edit again.
I just figured out how to make the deformation go away. Damn, why didn't I think of this before. I'm too lazy now to open it up and apply the fix.
Are you not worried about charging two separate battery cells without a load balancing charger? At least from the RC world, this is a big negative. Fire can be no fun.
ratindahat said:
Are you not worried about charging two separate battery cells without a load balancing charger? At least from the RC world, this is a big negative. Fire can be no fun.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly why I just took it apart again to redo my setup. Will update on my progress later.
Ho ho ho, just figured out a safe way to connect the bats. Too late now. Will do it tomorrow.
ratindahat said:
Are you not worried about charging two separate battery cells without a load balancing charger? At least from the RC world, this is a big negative. Fire can be no fun.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly right, lion/lipo batteries need to be balanced in charge otherwise you will burn out the batteries and in extreme cases, BURN the batteries.
Having said that, many/most of the lipo batteries I have worked with in electronics have balancing circuits per "cell" so in reality you can simply add them like any battery and they take care of themselves. If lipo batteries were purchased without that circuit, then they are very cheap to buy and add as well.
I havent cracked the transformer, and dont plan to because the stock battery life is plenty for me; however, I have increased the battery capacity on several laptops, and other types of devices, and the first key is to ensure the cells are balanced before connecting them together, then ensuring you have a balancing circuit to EACH cell otherwise over time they will come out of balance (normal use and internal resistance). Once you have done those two things, you can connect them and use them.
Now, the other point is the meters. I have no idea about the transformer but most battery meters work simply on the voltage on the batteries and assume the discharge in a linear fashion. This is rarely true for batteries, but it is simple, cheap and gives you an idea about how much power you have left. Sometimes this is error is covered by software that "maps" the battery discharge rate and gives you a "real" battery left level. So to the point of all that paragraph, once you balance the batteries, connect them and run through a few full charge/discharge cycles, you will likely find that the meter will catch up.
A point of caution, the word "cell" does not refer to a nicely packaged lipo battery with two wires. A cell is a single constructed unit that is usually 3.7v in the lipo world (different chemistries of batteries will have different voltages). If you added a pair of 3.7v (1s1p) batteries in parellel with a pair of 7v batteries (2s1p) you could really confuse the battery meters.
Enjoy the mod, I love reading about them..
Sent from my Transformer TF101
Interesting stuff, makes me wish I had the tools (especially a soldering iron) and more desk space, just to see what experiments could be had with this device.
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
lrissman said:
Exactly right, lion/lipo batteries need to be balanced in charge otherwise you will burn out the batteries and in extreme cases, BURN the batteries.
Having said that, many/most of the lipo batteries I have worked with in electronics have balancing circuits per "cell" so in reality you can simply add them like any battery and they take care of themselves. If lipo batteries were purchased without that circuit, then they are very cheap to buy and add as well.
I havent cracked the transformer, and dont plan to because the stock battery life is plenty for me; however, I have increased the battery capacity on several laptops, and other types of devices, and the first key is to ensure the cells are balanced before connecting them together, then ensuring you have a balancing circuit to EACH cell otherwise over time they will come out of balance (normal use and internal resistance). Once you have done those two things, you can connect them and use them.
Now, the other point is the meters. I have no idea about the transformer but most battery meters work simply on the voltage on the batteries and assume the discharge in a linear fashion. This is rarely true for batteries, but it is simple, cheap and gives you an idea about how much power you have left. Sometimes this is error is covered by software that "maps" the battery discharge rate and gives you a "real" battery left level. So to the point of all that paragraph, once you balance the batteries, connect them and run through a few full charge/discharge cycles, you will likely find that the meter will catch up.
A point of caution, the word "cell" does not refer to a nicely packaged lipo battery with two wires. A cell is a single constructed unit that is usually 3.7v in the lipo world (different chemistries of batteries will have different voltages). If you added a pair of 3.7v (1s1p) batteries in parellel with a pair of 7v batteries (2s1p) you could really confuse the battery meters.
Enjoy the mod, I love reading about them..
Sent from my Transformer TF101
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just redid the mod. Unfortunately, it was 3am and I forgot to take pictures before I closed up the dock. But basically what I did was charged both batteries up to 100% and connected them in parallel as is with their balancing circuits. Before, I took the cells out and added them to the circuit of the other one. This time I kept the circuits and added the circuits together.
It seems to work. The new battery pack is recognized. We'll see what happens later.
Here is a picture to give you an idea.
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/38673648/pictures/picsay-1324448610.jpg
Can you leave out the hard drive and put two extra batteries?
Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk
yalkowni said:
Can you leave out the hard drive and put two extra batteries?
Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why?
I'd rather have more storage.
If I were to send you my dock and money to buy supplies and labor
Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk

How to change your battery capacity

(Must be rooted)
Use Root Explorer or Equivalent.
(Can adb or command pull/ push with line if your know how inside twrp or on pc)
DIRECTORY: /etc/floating_feature.xml
Open it and Scroll or search until you see the capacity String value ...
Change it to the MAH of your desired battery.
Disclaimer: Any edits being made to batteries, charge speeds, % values, etc , can cause fires,
Do these at your own risk.
What is the purpose of this?
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Theoretically, to make use of a larger capacity battery or else it'll show the same stock capacity regardless of it's real capacity.
Now I don't know how it is For S7/Edge or Samsung devices but I previously owned several HTC devices. The last I had was One S and it could accomodate the battery from One XL (same size but bigger capacity). Many have tried and replaced it but even the new capacity was shown correctly, phone wasn't using it at full. After researches it came out that, for effectively using a bigger capacity battery it was needed a new kernel compiled to make use of the new battery capacity.
My point is that, you might need that as well here and I really doubt that anyone can compile from source a kernel for Exynos that can contain such changes as I know that sources are proprietary not open. You might fit a bigger capacity battery but it could be that you won't benefit from it's increased size
Sent from nowhere over the air...
I agree
Rapier said:
Theoretically, to make use of a larger capacity battery or else it'll show the same stock capacity regardless of it's real capacity.
Now I don't know how it is For S7/Edge or Samsung devices but I previously owned several HTC devices. The last I had was One S and it could accomodate the battery from One XL (same size but bigger capacity). Many have tried and replaced it but even the new capacity was shown correctly, phone wasn't using it at full. After researches it came out that, for effectively using a bigger capacity battery it was needed a new kernel compiled to make use of the new battery capacity.
My point is that, you might need that as well here and I really doubt that anyone can compile from source a kernel for Exynos that can contain such changes as I know that sources are proprietary not open. You might fit a bigger capacity battery but it could be that you won't benefit from it's increased size
Sent from nowhere over the air...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are reference files in the kernel ...
They reference battery capacity...
They are based off of a capacity % value
Basically an of/if command ... so in theory...
(Update: the theory was correct)
And a framework.res edit did suffice.
The file inside of framework-res res/xml/power_profile.xml
referenced a 3600mah battery ...
And the purpose of this is of course...
an aftermarket , fully synced , and properly programmed battery @ larger capacity 4200mah
To track all stats natively in any android rom
I use my device pretty heavy with it....
Background youtube, pandora, games, etc...
Stock S7 edge kernel/boot.img , modified build.prop (TeKHd Rom)
Also calibrated battery after changing the capacity values
battery life report...
Yamaha169 said:
I use my device pretty heavy with this 4200 mah...
Background youtube, pandora, games, etc...
Stock S7 edge kernel/boot.img , modified build.prop (TeKHd Rom)
Also calibrated battery after changing the capacity values
But heres a battery life report...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
omg how the hell did you manage to change for a bigger battery? can you explain? how and which one you bought? any links?
Vivacity said:
how and which one you bought?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://m.ebay.com/itm/4200mAh-High-Capacity-Gold-Replacement-Battery-for-Samsung-Galaxy-S7-Edge-NEW-/322221470195?hash=item4b05e571f3:g:jxsAAOSw9NdXqR3o
Yamaha169 said:
The guide to do so is explain in the images/ guide earlier in these pages...
The link to buy a battery like mine is
http://m.ebay.com/itm/4200mAh-High-...470195?hash=item4b05e571f3:g:jxsAAOSw9NdXqR3o
You will also need tools to do so... (watch youtube for a guide on the hardware change)
Once you have your battery installed... you need to be rooted to make the edits... there are two references you need to change (in images i posted)
After the edits... run your battery 99% dead... do a calibration (apk on app store can do this)
Then let it die.. charge it to 100% while the device is off
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But can you really trust a 4200mah for 15 dollars?
Trust
anaya1213 said:
But can you really trust a 4200mah for 15 dollars?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is my second time purchasing the same aftermarket battery... first time I installed it into a G928A (s6 edge plus)
Now ive installed it in this device... ive gone several months without seeing charge/discharge loss...
But heres the next question... say... you go through 2 batteries a year... 15$ each....
Would that not be worth the extra phone on time anyways?
Yamaha169 said:
This is my second time purchasing the same aftermarket battery... first time I installed it into a G928A (s6 edge plus)
Now ive installed it in this device... ive gone several months without seeing charge/discharge loss...
But heres the next question... say... you go through 2 batteries a year... 15$ each....
Would that not be worth the extra phone on time anyways?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fair enough, but how do you really know it's 4200mah instead of the regular 3600mah?
After the Note 7 fiasco, people tend to be more careful about aftermarket batteries.
My question regarding this modification ist: Is the phone still waterproof after opening the case?
i guess no...
Eezay said:
After the Note 7 fiasco, people tend to be more careful about aftermarket batteries.
My question regarding this modification ist: Is the phone still waterproof after opening the case?
i guess no...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would guess no also, as the glue sealing everything together is disturbed
Eezay said:
After the Note 7 fiasco, people tend to be more careful about aftermarket batteries.
My question regarding this modification ist: Is the phone still waterproof after opening the case?
i guess no...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any battery lithium... copper core... can overheat and cause what happened to the 7 line...
And this device claims to be water "resistant" ... but people were testing new units and ruining cameras... so...
I went with a ghostek atomic 2.0 case ...
Agreed... no matter how good you cut the adhesive
ingram10 said:
I would guess no also, as the glue sealing everything together is disturbed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They do make the adheasive with backglass replacement... but im content with my device ...
Longer batter... no overheating issues (2nd phone using them)
After doing the edits and the battery swap with the battery sync... big gains..
I Would Do this Experiment Again
Update...
Batterylife update...
Yamaha169 said:
The guide to do so is explain in the images/ guide earlier in these pages...
The link to buy a battery like mine is
http://m.ebay.com/itm/4200mAh-High-...470195?hash=item4b05e571f3:g:jxsAAOSw9NdXqR3o
You will also need tools to do so... (watch youtube for a guide on the hardware change)
Once you have your battery installed... you need to be rooted to make the edits... there are two references you need to change (in images i posted)
After the edits... run your battery 99% dead... do a calibration (apk on app store can do this)
Then let it die.. charge it to 100% while the device is off
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you even found bigger aftermarket batteries? And did you ever tried to test the battery and his capacity before implementing them? I often have the feeling they are faking the written numbers on it
twinko said:
Did you even found bigger aftermarket batteries? And did you ever tried to test the battery and his capacity before implementing them? I often have the feeling they are faking their values.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you can break out ohms law and calculate power
( find something that runs off the same voltage , and run the tests yourself for discharge rate @ hours )
Yamaha169 said:
Well, to me... thats arguing a moot point...
Thats like asking me how i know im getting a gallon of gas at the pump.
But... the evidence is in the calculation of the user ... because there are FAR too many variables ...
There are applications that track power loss by MAH (mili-amp hour) if you use over the stock MAH rating... it would have a larger storage capacity.
Or you can break out ohms law and calculate power , disect this battery and beat your head against a post ..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
im sorry my english isn't that good but i think the capacity of this battery is not related to the user nor there are many variables.
Probably i didnt used the right words but what i was asking for is for example:
Connect the battery to a constant current load and measure the time it takes to discharge the battery to a certain voltage.
Capacity in Ah = Current in Amperes * Time in hours​
that would give a good overview of the real capacity without using a fishy app or harassing a post
twinko said:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yamaha169 said:
If it comes down to having to buy another one... then yea.. ill run that test ..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sounds great and lets see how long your battery needs to be replaced. really interested to do the same.

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