Database Users

BIG Reception Problem (Fast keinen Empfang bei MDAc mehr)

Hi,
I've got a serious problem with my Magician.
I used the antenna cable connector to get better reception yesterday when I had to drive a longer distance, but when I took out the connector it seems that the MDAc didn't switch back to internal antenna. I've got nearly no reception (~10% as usual). Driving back (without external antenna) I only have signal directly in front of a antenna tower. Normal phone use was not possible. Normally I have 1 -2 reception holes during the hole way.
What have I done to solve the problem:
1. Soft-Reset: nothing changed
2. Hardreset:
3. reinstallation of Radiostack 1.05.00 and Hardreset
nothing brought a difference.
Hope the external antenna didn't damaged my Magician phisycally.
Hope someone can help
P.S.: Is the german T-Mobile Radio stack 1.00.10 somewhere available, so that I can try it with this stack? But I'm pretty shure that the radio stack isn't the problem, because it worked perfect for more than 2 weeks.

did you get this to work ? i now have a similar problem - very low signal. the difference is that i never used an external antenna....

@Saege: you can try to remove the cover of the antena-plug on the back side to check out if everything flipped back where it should be. i don't think it has anything to do with the phone stack itself.
cheers, lutz

Hi,
I had also reception problems....
I have found the the internal antenna is a metal plate you can see when you take the upper back cover off. The metal plate has 2 lips that go to the mainboard (you can see them at the top). you have to take a look if the lips are pressed good against the mainboard.
To open the upper back cover put a very thin and pointy object into the holes marked by the red arrow's.
The second picture show the antenna connection to the mainboard, the lips have to be on the golden squares on the mainboard.
Cheers
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That's a good digital camera you are using, what is it? I need a new one.

i think it's an HP Photosmart R707

Damn,
he is right... r707 from HP ... hehe
Cheers...

:wink:

I have problem too with the signal.
If the XDAmini just came from a no-signal location, the signal comes back very slow. Sometimes you need to soft reset to get it back the soonest.
Please help.

Have been trying everything that has been said in this post about the non-reception on my magician.
In the last 2 days, I only had reception (1 bar) for like 2 minutes, and then nothing...
Is there anything else I can try or test or do to get it running?
Separate/replacement/external antenna to check if the gsm module is still ok and that it's an antenna-issue...?
any help is very welcome!
thanks

Is my vibration motor dead / disconnected?

Hi everyone,
My Hermes does not vibrate anymore, there are two possible reasons as I see it:
1. I dropped my phone on monday, the battery cover came off and the battery fell out, the phone seemed to be fine after I put them back (most likely)
2. I upgraded from radio 1.18 to 1.27 (unlikely)
Those are the only two recent events which have happened to my phone, and as I doubt the radio has anything to do with the vibrator motor I assumed that when I dropped it, the motor broke off its contacts or something.
Things I have tried:
1. Upgrade to AKU 3.3 (previously running SA 1.35)
2. Downgrade radio to 1.18 again (no luck, back on 1.27 now)
3. Hard reset
4. Soft reset
5. BL 1.01, 1.04
6. Various combinations of all of the above
I have come to the conclusion it must be a hardware issue. I've looked at pictures of the inside of the Hermes but nothing is obviously the motor - could anyone point it out to me on an image? I'd like to have a look at it and if it has broken off its contacts, solder it back on, or buy a new one and install it if it is broken.
Also, are there any programs that can test the vibration definitively? It doesn't vibrate when I am rung or texted, even though the setting is to vibrate, and it doesn't vibrate when I toggle vibrate mode from the Comm manager.
Many thanks

unfortunately your not the first to suffer this problem:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=293004
i know that's not really of much help, in terms of fixing the issue. but i think it proves that it is some kind of hardware fault that many of us are experiencing. i've had this problem for a while now, and yeh, its very annoying, but I dont trust t-mobile enough to give it back to them to get it fixed because other than that everything else works fine, and in my experience if i get it repaired its bound to come back with even more problems

Thanks for your reply, I had read that thread but unfortunately for me I bought this phone off eBay (for £245 after O2 wanted £260 to replace my Wizard...) so I have no warrantee.
I am an electronic engineer so I'm not afraid to get inside either, if it is an obvious and easy-to-fix fault (wire needs resoldering or something) I will let everyone know.
Don't suppose anyone can point to a picture showing the motor could they?

Oliy said:
Thanks for your reply, I had read that thread but unfortunately for me I bought this phone off eBay (for £245 after O2 wanted £260 to replace my Wizard...) so I have no warrantee.
I am an electronic engineer so I'm not afraid to get inside either, if it is an obvious and easy-to-fix fault (wire needs resoldering or something) I will let everyone know.
Don't suppose anyone can point to a picture showing the motor could they?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The motor is on the back cover and contacts the mother board via spring contacts. It is possible that a sharp knock could flatten these contacts and stop connection to the board. This would be an easy fix - bend contacts back to original position and all you need is to take back cover off!!
Mike

I have fixed it - I opened up the case (just took off the back cover - this voids your warrantee) and it is located at the bottom. It has two spring loaded pins which contact the main board, and one appeared to be bent slightly out of shape. After bending it back I reassembled and everything works again!
Thanks for your reply Mike, I had actually just got back from my mate-with-the-T6-screwdriver's house where I fixed it when I read your post!
Thanks all

A hard knock can bend the Vibrate Motor's copper spring contacts enough to make them lose contact with the board. In other cases contact may be poor due to some oxidisation on the contacts.
For those who are not worried about their warranty, giving those contacts a tweak back into shape would not be a daunting task. 4 screws on the back cover, remove sim card AND Micro Card and with a bit of patience ease off back cover. That's all the dismantling needed .
Do remember to line up the little macro toggle arm on the camera with its catch on the cover when putting back together. First time I did this I forgot, got everything all screwed back and then discovered the camera macro arm was not lined up with the switch on the casing. So i would check the macro switch is working before finally putting screws back in.
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Some people are able to get the motor to re-establish contact with the m/board by giving the device a few sharp taps on the bottom edge. This can work provided the spring contacts are not excessively bent. Worth a try especially for those with a warranty for whom opening up would be warranty voiding.
Cheers
Mike

Ahh...so that's why my Dopod838Pro is not vibrating at times...I knew it had something to do with the amount of times I dropped the phone...(lol) well, I will try this solution and get back to you guys.
Thanks for the info Mike.

Cingular 8525 No Sound

I bought a brand new Cingular 8525 Hermes about 11 months ago and everything was working fine, until two weeks ago. I turned the alarm overnight and the next morning there was no sound coming out of my speaker. When I speak with someone I am able to here through the inner speaker, but when the phone rings there is no sound even with all the volume up. I checked every sound setting but still no sound. Not even the media player has sound. I heard it was a system mulfunction. Is there some type of patch that i need to install in order for the sound to come back. Can someone please help? I would really appreciate it.
Thank You

I just started experiencing the same issue. I've had my 8525 for 4 months. Any ideas?

same thing here.. started when i had schaps 4.01, which also gave me screen problems. but ive tried loads of roms, and they all ocme to teh same problem. i have rington sound from the back, and startup animation sound, but no mp3 sound or notifications and even the front speaker doesnt work.
what roms do you guys have...
and ive found some problems which might help us.. ive ordered some torx screwdrivers so i can open mine up, doesnt matter if it doesnt, ill get a new phone..
links:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=288728&highlight=speaker
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=310585
hope you fix yours...
x

ok i opened mine up with a torx t6 screwdriver.. and all that was wrong was this little white connection to the speaker was only half on.. now totally fixed... all speakers work fine
x

rorydaredkign said:
ok i opened mine up with a torx t6 screwdriver.. and all that was wrong was this little white connection to the speaker was only half on.. now totally fixed... all speakers work fine
x
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, if it's just the white speaker connection it's a relatively easy fix:
see here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=317870
White block connector, top of picture. All you need do is remove rear casing and push connector in:
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Mike

Worked like a charm! Thanks so much for posting!

connector
thanks for posting this photo, my wifes phone stopped working this week. Just bought some torx screwdrivers off ebay so hopefully in a week this will be the problem and can be fixed.
cheers,
Dean

dean.collins said:
thanks for posting this photo, my wifes phone stopped working this week. Just bought some torx screwdrivers off ebay so hopefully in a week this will be the problem and can be fixed.
cheers,
Dean
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it's the rear speaker then that connector is the likely problem. The front speaker needs more dismantling.
PS Remember to line up the camera's macro switch when putting the rear casing back on! Fiddly, but you'll get there in the end.
Mike

clean usb port
I had the same problem just a couple days ago. My USB port was making my hermes think it had a headset on. Just clean the USB port good with a alcohol pad and see what happens. If not, then I would get into the phone

dean.collins said:
thanks for posting this photo, my wifes phone stopped working this week. Just bought some torx screwdrivers off ebay so hopefully in a week this will be the problem and can be fixed.
cheers,
Dean
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
BTW i posted some photos of how to do it it here - http://deancollinsblog.blogspot.com/2009/07/has-ringer-in-your-htc-tytyn-2-at-8525.html

Help: "O" "P" "L" "Enter" Keys not working anymore.

Help: "O" "P" "L" "Enter" Keys not working anymore.
After getting a white screen, I did the fix of placing a small plastic by the black square chip, and assembled again, not a problem with the white screen anymore.
But I just had another problem, after assembling the phone back again, some keys on the keyboard stopped working: "O" "P" "L" and "Enter", and the key on top of the "I", looks like a softkey, but the other one works fine.
All of the rest of the keys work fine, but those 5 keys don't.
I checked for any dirt or something obstructing the keyboard chip, and the rubber, but nothing seemed bad.
I alo tried putting 3 sheets of paper cut in the size of the chip, but that didn't help.
I do use the keyboard, does any1 have an idea of why this is happening?

Usually complete failure of certain keys is down to one of two causes
1.
The ribbon cable is damaged - (think it unlikely unless it was cut or severely bent)
2.
The ribbon cable connector is not seated properly or needs cleaning or is damaged:
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Worth re-seating that a few times just to be sure - and it only needs the back casing to be removed (maybe you've tried that already?)
Mike

Could be buildup of corrosion between the keys and the Keypad. Visit Mikes site in his sig at bottom of his post to find the illustrations and instructions on what to do but make sure you test Mikes suggestion first. Cleaning the keyboard contacts is a more intensive job then just reseating the connector...
Cheers...

Yeah I was going to try to remove the white sticker as he posted on some other threads, but trying to remove the sticker seems hard and scary.
But, it seems very strange, that this happened after fixing the white screen issue with the small piece of plasti card.

The card shouldn't affect it as the keyboard is in the bottom half of the Hermes and the screen is on the slideout section. The thing that could have been hurt is the ribbon cable that attaches onto the mainboard Or the connections at the back of the LCD.
So saying though, I have found strange effects from mainboard problems messing with the LCD (my flywheel pcb broke and caused no backlight on LCD). But I wouldn't htink it would work the other way as it would be the mainboard where problems would originate, not be the byproduct.
Cheers...

Yeah, the card should not be a problem as I thought.
I have another hermes, which had the white screen, but at the time, I did not know how to fix it. The problem is that, I had issues with mine because it did not charge or power up anymore, I think the problem was the use of different chargers not made for the Hermes.
But anyways, I'll try to switch the keyboard from the old one into this and see if the problem lies with the keyboard, or cable. I'll try this tomorrow, and let you know guys about this.

I always find its easier, if you have the parts, to replace... Its when you have no choice you have the hard time..
Cheers...

Wow.
I just tried changing the keyboard from the old device into this one, same problem with the same keys... Then i said, ok, it must be the cable, so switched cables, and the same issue still :|.
I just had reset the device and it's still not working.
This has to be something else..

Possibly motherboard... You could try replacing the other MB, that is if it still works, other wise the connector may need to be cleaned - both on the MB and on the ribbon.. Use only isopropyl alcohol (surgical spirits) and a cotton bud. Never use Metho as it leaves a residue.
If that doesn't work then it must be the MB as you've tried changing the keyboard and ribbon. Little else to cause the problem.
Personally I'd try the mainboard as its fairly easy and doesn't require that much more effort than what you've already done. Remember though that you will have ALL the old data on the other phone. Old OS, settings and contacts...
Cheers...

Power and reset button!

Somebody probably already found this, but the mojo actually has a power and reset button under the hood
Sry for the dusty pic
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Nice. Could you please post more images of the opened device and maybe a description on how to open the MOJO without damaging anything?

Open the mojo
First of all, BE CAREFUL, I'm not taking responsibility if you crack something or drive a screwdriver through the motherboard, not that its likely but still
1. Disconnect everything from the device.
2. Orientate the device upside down and rotate it so the ports are away from you (easier to explain some of the steps)
3. Remove both rubber feet, the one next to the ports hides the four clasps in the picture below, the other one hides one screw that needs to be removed.
4. Grab something small, flat and a little wide (like a flat screwdriver)
One a time, press the clasps down and away from you.
At the same time grab the edge above the ports (the bottom plate) and bend it a LITTLE upwards so the clasps comes out a little easier.
4. When the four clasps are out of the sockets and the screw is removed from under the other rubber foot, you basically can open the whole thing like a clam.
Just be careful with the ports, especially the audio jack, it sits on a mini pcb inside and seemed a little fragile.
When you opened it so the ports are free, some force has to be applied. On the opposite side, inside the shell there are two more clasps that will resist.
I just kept opening it like a clam and the two pieces separated, everything intact.
5. Done!
I removed the motherboard from the bottom plate, the only things under there was the soldering points of the ports.
I also removed the heatsink, nothing exciting. (I dont recommend this because of the thermal compound between the cpu and heatsink)
The power and reset button
This was the most exciting thing I found, there was a button under the usb3 port, can figure out what it does though, if I hold it in under boot, the device wont boot.
PM me if you cant figure it out!

Why Mad Catz wouldn't put a power and reset button on the outside of the device is beyond me. I wish there was a way to power on and off from the controller...
But this is a nice find! I might have to mod an external switch, if that's an option...

Wow. Thank you for your explanation! :good:

Hey, Thanks...I heard about that before, but the Instructions and pics are great! I think I'll be tearing mine open this weekend & figure out how to expose those 2 buttons.

Seems one could drill a couple small holes in the case and put a couple small plastic pins as button extensions. Possibly the shafts from a couple of golf tees?
Does anyone know which button does what? and will the reset start it back up after being turned off with a software switch?
About the third button: will the MOJO not boot at all with it pressed, or does it boot into fastboot?

Hello all, I'm thinking to tear down mine and I might change the case for my Mojo. Not sure if I'll add a fan with a switch to toggle it on /off, and planning to expose those power buttons too. Has anyone done something similar? Maybe there are some 3d printer schemes somewhere on the net, I could not find any though. Thank you very much!

Hi yes it happened! my audio jack came off! will that stop the sound coming through the TV?

colks said:
Hi yes it happened! my audio jack came off! will that stop the sound coming through the TV?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No as long as your sound is going through the HDMI.