Hi all, after months of try&error and buying 2 (TWO!) MDAs (Wizard & Charmer) i finally found out WHY sometimes GPRS data flow stops and no incoming calls will be put throught (they land on mailbox):
It's the docking stations! Just let me explain that a little bit more: Both Wizard & Charmer will be delivered without any docking stations, so I bought two different on Ebay + one active holder from Brodit for my car.
After I put Wizard or Charmer in one of the docking station it's necessary to call 2 or 3 times until the call gets through, also in the car (Brodit), and - GPRS data flow, that means even I'm connected (2 GPRS arrows are there), stops after 2 or 3 minutes. I see that with a network monitor called Phatnet (very recommended!)
So now comes the real scurillic thing: If I use the original AC adapter from T-Mobile nothing of the above happens... GPRS data packets flow hours and hours without any breaks, and calls come through.
The docking station definitly loads the devices, but it takes longer. So here's my conclusion: The AC Adapters and the car adapter give to little current for the radio part in the devices - sounds strange, but I have no other ideas.
So now what? Try yourself please, anyone who owns Wizard or Charmer and some other AC adapters than the originals should tell here - it's easy, just put the devices in, surf a little bit for just a couple of minutes and you'll see surfing stops. It's not dependend of the loading status (orange or green led).
I tried different Rom updates, different devices and now it seems that power is the reason, really annoying. Tell us your experience!
Yours B.
Here are the links of the 2 docking stations:
http://cgi.ebay.de/Dockingstation-f...861020033QQcategoryZ15396QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.de/Dockingstation-f...ryZ70769QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Must be a Charmer/Wizard flaw as my Magician doesn't act at all like this.
What I really don't understand is how you can even make a phonecall or use gprs when there's no original AC-adapter connected to your device, when a car charger doesn't give you enough current to have the radio operating as it should be. So your devices must be pretty crap then lol.
I think the cradle's are somehow interfering with the radio. The current can't be the main issue, otherwise the device wouldn't be functioning on a battery only. Guess it comes in a strange state, I noticed that my magician doesn't hold a gprs connection while Act.Sync is running, maybe this is something simular.
But it sure must be a pain in the rear bottom I agree to that.
M
Well there's some additional information I researched:
When connecting the device to the original AC adaptor it does NOT switch on the display, when connecting to the cradle it does. So the pinout of the connector must be different and Wizard/Charmer maybe (half way) believes that it has been connected to USB of a PC, but not in a defined state. Remember that my docking station IS NOT connected to a PC, it's only there for power.
Somebody maybe knows the pinout of the delivered USB sync cable and the AC adaptor?
Yours B.
Related
Hi, this is my first post to these forums, although I did spend a couple of hours browsing after finding them last night.
Having played with my wife's month old Mio168/TomTom5 and loved it, I decided that when my CPW/o2 contract was up I'd go for a pda/phone rather than the SE K750i I had previously been planning on.
I did just a little research and went for the XDAIIi over the MDAIII (don't like T-Mobile's pricing!) and XDAIIs (no wi-fi, slower and unnecessary keyboard).
I initially thought I had a great unit but things haven't been as smooth as I expected.
http://www.globalpositioningsystems.co.uk supplied me with a Holux combined GPS receiver/cradle, Kingston 512MB SD card and screen protector at very reasonable prices and with swift delivery.
First thing I noticed was that whenever the phone utility was brought on-screen, it showed me that my last caller was the very first person I had phoned on it. After any call, the same info would pop back to the display, too.
Another little thing that surprised me was the SIM code entry. I have set an 8 digit code. When I enter the first number it appears on the display as an asterisk but when I hit the second, the first two numbers appear (the asterisk changes to the digit). Is this normal or a quirk of having '08' as the first two digits of my code?
TomTom5 installed fine but kept randomly freezing (whenever a call or txt msg came in it was certain to happen) so I contacted o2 Customer Support who told me to take it back to be checked out.
Three days after installing the card (and before I had taken the unit for its o2 'inspection') the SD card suddenly 'disappeared'. Actually, it's shot; it isn't recognised by my XDAIIi, my work supervisor's XDAIIi, my wife's Mio168 or my computer's USB card reader. I researched this a little and found it a fairly common occurence but the only recommendation seems to be to format it. HELLO? How does one format something that no equipment recognises? Fools!
Actually, while googling the SD card problem I found people recommending the removal of o2 Active to cure TomTom lockups. o2 Tech-Supp were very helpful with this - instructing me how to hard reset and install 'corporate' using the 0506 password. This appears to have cured almost all TomTom problems although I need more than the old 128MB MM card I currently have for storage!
This also fixed the 'last call' bug I'd been experiencing.
Having found this marvellous forum, I set about finding info for the XDAIIi and promptly discovered that the wikki bears little specifically for it. I would update it but don't know enough yet!
I did read a post last night that pointed out to a user that the cradle charges the battery from just the USB port, and not requiring the AC supply so I decided to check it out. Sure enough, the battery is shown as 'charging' but after leaving it overnight, I find that the charge has actually dropped to 87% (still says 'charging', too) from the 95% I left it on.
Perhaps I have a faulty cradle.
It also seems a little odd to me that I can use mp3s for ringtones but can only use wav files for the alarm!
Is there a way to stop the wi-fi 'do you want to connect' popup appearing when TomTom is running other than disabling wi-fi before running it? It's a right pain having TT freeze until I get rid ot the popup.
One other little thing - anyone know how I can ensure that GPRS isn't going to be used for web surfing? I don't want it to be activated accidentally and certainly don't want to go surfing on it for an hour thinking I'm using wi-fi!
Don't get me wrong - overall I'm still happy with the XDAIIi (look -> ) but there's just a few doubts as to whether I went the right way creeping in.
Hi there, im pretty much a "new" user of the XDA 2i aswell but have learnt alot from using this forum.
I have almost the same setup as you now as far as the "corporate" install, TomTom5 etc etc .... but i have updated the ROM on mine to the latest Imate version, which you can find in one of these forums , its called PDA 2K ROM streight from I-MATE or something along them lines.
I would recommend that you update also as it fixed a few problems was having with lockups, but make sure to do alot of research before you attempt it cos you dont want to knacker it up
Anyway .... my cradle charges fine just using the USB (no AC adapter)
Passord thing .... this has came up before , it for some reason displays the digits when the numbers 08 are first , i seem to remember it being something to do with emergancy calling features, although i didnt think that they started with "08" but there ya go
GPRS ... will only activate when you cannot get a Wireless signal, the hirachy is WiFi then GPRS, but to be on the safe side i removed all the setting configurations for the GPRS so it can never connect, i never use it anyway.
Im not sure about the "Do you want to connect" popup you get when running TomTom as it doesnt happen to me , perhaps you have wireless enabled all the time, id tun it off to save your batteries anyway.
well .... i think ive covered a few of the things your asking as good as i can, best of luck with it
Thanks for the reply, Danny.
I haven't had any TomTom problems since 'going corporate' so I'll wait and see how it goes before trying another ROM - taking warranty into consideration too.
Mind you, I haven't received any calls or texts while running TT either so all may not be as it seems.
Hmm. I'm plugged into a 4-port USB hub that came with an external power supply I don't use, so I wonder if that makes a difference. I'll have to pull out the base unit and plug the cradle in there to check charging on that.
I've double checked that I have no settings for GPRS so unless o2 'push' them to me I should be OK.
Yes, I do have wi-fi on all the time and the battery still lasts all the work day with a little usage when time permits. My cradle/GPS receiver charges the pda when it's in there on the way to/from work, so I don't really have to worry about that.
I'd just like to not be bothered by the connection dialogue box rather than have to turn off wi-fi for navigation purposes... have you seen how many networks are open out there? Not just the city centre ones, there are loads of not-very-secure company and household networks that can be connected to and utilised. Free broadband internet - almost makes you want to get a laptop!
the computer to which the cradle is connected via USB must be turned ON, or else there will be no current passing through the cable. Thus, no charging the PDA. The Ipods have the same "handycap". You can always use the AC power adapter...
Karbono said:
the computer to which the cradle is connected via USB must be turned ON, or else there will be no current passing through the cable. Thus, no charging the PDA. The Ipods have the same "handycap". You can always use the AC power adapter...
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Quite true, but my charging test was performed while the computer was on and defragmenting my 5 partitions.
Actually, my Soltek motherboard has 'hot' USB ports at the rear that still supply a little 'juice' when the power is off - my USB hub, BT dongle and Intellimouse 4 stay alight when the main machine is off, although I've not bothered to check exactly how much voltage is supplied.
I have a (dis)connection problem with my XDAIIi which only started about three weeks ago.
It may (or may not) be related to a problem that I had when I was using my XDAIIi in the car as a sat nav.
As is my custom, I tucked the XDA into the glove compartment (with car charger attached) when I popped into a shop. When I got back in the car, the XDA was part of the way through a hard reboot and the car charger was not working. Since about that time, it has only been possible to connect to the device (via the USB port) occasionally. (I have never had any success with IR, Wireless or Bluetooth – but have never really tried before.)
My company laptop has slightly more success at connecting to the XDA than my personal laptop has – both of which worked perfectly before. I have a USB sync cable as well as the standard cradle but there is no difference in the connection performance. I have tried loading various versions of Activesync but without any success. The problem is basically as follows:
Mostly, when I attach the device to either laptop, it will connect normally (if a bit slow) and get part way through the synchronisation process before disconnecting. Typically, the connection lasts less than a minute but it can be for quite a long time – e.g. long enough to load TomTom Navigator 5. Rarely does the connection last more than a few minutes though and never more than about 10 minutes.
My company laptop has a firewall as does my personal one – but they are different. I have disabled my personal laptop (Windows) firewall as well as the virus scanner etc. but it has no effect. I have tried hard reboots several times but am reluctant to do any more as loading software back again is a painful (hit and miss) process. My personal laptop has various anti-spyware packages which I run regularly as well as CCleaner. My company laptop has none of these though.
If anyone has any ideas what is wrong or (preferably) what I might do, I would be extremely grateful. My personal hunch is that I may have caused some damage to the device when I put it into the glove compartment. Maybe the charger cable was a bit tight and it damaged the connector. Or the car charger may have produced a voltage/current spike somehow and I have damaged some internal circuitry. (Quite why the XDA connects at all though is a bit of a mystery.)
PS I don’t want to buy a brand new TyTN2 (much!) but if I have to …… Oh well!
I don't know if this is known already, but I thought I'd share.
I recently (rather stupidly) bought the wrong type of micro-USB cable, the one with the completely rectangular profile on the micro end. Not wanting to throw it away, I decided to file the corners down so it would fit.
I confirmed the pin-outs were the same, at the site below
http://www.leadsdirect.co.uk/technical/usbwiring.html
The only difference being that there was an identifying pin that was either unconnected, or connected to ground.
When I plugged the cable in, it automatically took me to Navipanel!! I was going to use it in the car anyway, so all in all, very useful!!
ALSO
Just discovered it does not appear to allow data transfer, as the phone does not show up in Windows when connected up with this cable.
I can confirm that if you connect a 'Motorola Mini-USB to Micro USB convertor' to the socket then you will also get the NaviPanel. Not sure if it is a good thing though because it annoys the hell out of me, not being able to access my Emails etc very easily. Of course I would not be driving at the same time as playing with the phone anyway.
Same happens when you just plug-in in the hd2 a microusb-to-female-usb adaptor (ment for nokia n85?) which i had bought to test (without success) some usb-host drivers mentioned somewhere in this forum.
I can add that it is possible to disable navipanel autostart (i did it but don't recall now exactly were among settings) and after that (obviously in my case using an additional usb/microusb adapter) the connection is fully functional as an usual cable.
wibberly said:
I can confirm that if you connect a 'Motorola Mini-USB to Micro USB convertor' to the socket then you will also get the NaviPanel. Not sure if it is a good thing though because it annoys the hell out of me, not being able to access my Emails etc very easily. Of course I would not be driving at the same time as playing with the phone anyway.
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I have the same motorola conventor and the same problem. I just tried other charger and navipanel doesn't start.
so, if i read you all correctly, to activate navipanel electronically, ground pin 4 (not usually used)?
navipanel blues
does anyone know how to completely cauterise navipanel...? when using my hd2 as a usb drive the lead (as supplied with the phone!) makes the unit think its in the car.... zzz and vice versa
I have an htc hd2 I wanna amplifer my wici signal,anybody know is it possible?I bought a wireless usb adaptor for my laptop it is call Gsky 500mw.it is able to get 10 times mor signal and stronger than normaly.Can i do something els with my htc?
Thanks a lot!
good idea, but the current amps use to much power for it to work for long periods, wifi kanes the battery anyways and adding an amp to it would just kill it an hour ot two.
but...
you can make sure that your using the full power of builtin wifi by making sure that it isnt set to battery use over speed
my tg01, and my old diamond, i had the option to change the power of wifi for better battery times versus faster transmission and connectivity.
have a mooch around if you havent already done this, its on the powersave app normally. or performance?
or...
you could make an external antennae of sorts, it might work, but getting like 2 feet of copper wire and twisting it so it looks like a rectangle and affixing this on the back of your phone somehow, the phones wifi might gain more amptitude if can piggyback on something....or it might restrict your wifi usage somehow? i dont know,
have fun
No any plug for antenna at Back of my phone.It has only 1 micro usb 1 for the head set.I dont care if its eat my battery so fast I'm not gonna use my internet for long.And I dont care if a nedd to plug 2-3 feet cable.Because I wanna reach a wifi ruoter what is maybe far away from me.Thanks a lot!
no there wont be an antenna plug, youll have to take the back off, and remove the metal plate to access the htc wifi adapter, and solder or otherwise hold an antenna cable to that.
by the way, this WILL VOID your waranty. also its not the easiest task going...
kk most phones dont have wifi ant. plugs as they are not needed
but...
i remember seeing on ebay some time ago these little clear stickers with some copper wire etched into it to boost the 2g/3g signal, these were not directly affixed to the phones arieal in anyway, they literally were stickers you put under the battery ( so they are close to the phones builtin radio) and they boosted signal that way.
maybe a similar thing would work? if two wires are close enough but not touching they can both share the same signal ( try this with speaker cable,it works)
it works because all cables emit a sort of interference (apart from the noise free type) and if these interferences mix you get mixed results but maybe it could enhance your signal.
we need some experiments on this i think, anyone up for it?
So it is not gonna work,if I get an USB wireless adapter with antenna and plug it in my micro usb?And if I don't need it,I just unplug it.Or any other chance to get a strong wifi signal to my phone.What if I get a portable wifi router and I amplifer signal with this.I hope you understand what I'm wanna say.Or maybe it is not possible?I bought a yagi antenna and I plug it to my 500mw Gsky usb wireless adapter and the wifi signal is more stronger.How can I get my phone work with this?
you cant use a usb wifi adapter as your phone has no drivers, and never will do.
as for using an amplifier attatched to your router, or a seperate one, this will work reasonibly well.
You can look at http://www.cell-phone-accessories.com/htc-hd2-antennabooster-magnetmount.html
I don't know if it works fine. Only I' ve seen this site.
Also:
With my LEO I obtain the max WiFi connectivity removing the back metallic cover and taking the phone with my hand at the bottom half of it.
I have 3G internet router/receiver in one of the rooms of my house, which has the best 3G reception. There is WIFI router in my living room. I have in-wall cables with ethernet sockets in every room, and all cables come into on "routing box" where I can use patch cables or powered switch to route and share internet connection. So 3G router in one room is connected with WIFI router in another room by a help of a patch cable.
1 week ago I noticed that there is no WIFI connection. I tried lots of things untill I found out that if i unplug the cable from the WIFI router and plug it into my laptop, the LED of the ethernet socket is blinking red, meaning there is no internet connection. If i plug the cable directly into 3G router, the internet is fine. I replaced 4 patch cables and the result was the same, no internet. Then I tried to use my WIFI router in between of the two rooms routing, just one cable went into Internet IN and another went out of Ethernet out (there are 4 of these). This way the LED of the ethernet socket was blinking green and the internet was fine.
Could anyone explain me what's wrong with my ethernet cables? Or what else could it be? Why all of a sudden perfect connection stopped working while none of the cables were cut off? Is there signal degradation and WIFI router works like signal amplificator? I am a no networking specialist. Please help me to find an answer so I would know what to do.
Thanks
Anyone? please
camspy said:
Anyone? please
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unfortunately i dont know i am sorry
camspy said:
Anyone? please
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Click to collapse
On the road right now. Give me a couple hours for travel. Will summarize what i understand works and does not work for you. We can then try a couple things to isolate the issue.
Still Charged Up
OK. Tell me what you've tried and works, as well as what you've tried and fails.
You've plugged your laptop into your 3G router and you can get to the internet.
You've connected your WiFi router to your 3G router by physically moving it next to your 3G router. You've then tested your laptop, connected wirelessly to the WiFi and via ethernet to your WiFi router and in both cases they work (assuming your WiFi router has ethernet ports.
If everything above is correct and functional, then yes - the problem is your wiring and/or hub/switch that connects all of your cabling.
Put your WiFi router back where it belongs. Patch your 3G directly to your WiFi and test again. You've eliminated everything but the wires. Does it work? If so, then it should be your hub/switch. Doesn't work? Patch your laptop to the 3G at the patch panel. Does it work? If not, then it's your connectors and/or cabling between the 3G router and your patch panel.
Hung any pictures lately where a nail could have penetrated a cable? What's changed?
Eliminate as much a possible at first and then add as little as possible and you will find the problem.
OK, i tried wiring my own LAN cables to try things out. What i found is that one part of the problem was that i needed to use one crossed patch cable, straight one had no signal at all if used.
The other part of the problem was that when i tried all combinations, the cable that was plugged into laptop was showing binking red. But my 3G router was showing that there was connection. Apparently the sites were loading in browser, but very slowly. But when i tried testing with speedtest.net, it couldn't pass ping test...
So, i think it could be the bad/crossed wiring in one of the wall cables and it is impossible to test and find exact answer without a tester. So I have ordered a good LAN tester that is capable to detect bad wiring so i will know what custom cable i could make. It should arrive in a week or so.
Thanks for your time and help
Confused here. You said it was working up to two weeks ago. Unless you replaced the ends, you can't go from not needing a crossover to needing one. I don't know what kind of gear you have, but some equipment allows you to change the port configuration so that you do or don't need a crossover. Usually this is at the hub/switch level. I've never heard of consumer equipment requiring a crossover. Are you sure you haven't made any config changes to your 3G router, WiFi router, hub/switch, or even laptop?
I don't know that I helped, but I'm glad you found a solution that works. Cheers!
I didn't make any changes on routers ends, but there was one day when there was no electicity for like few minutes. You think it could make some harm to routers settings?
Assuming power loss outside your control then there could have been a spike either before loss of power or when power restored. Not likely reset but it can't hurt to check. What OS are you running on laptop? Have you tried deleting your wireless config on laptop and recreating?
Everything is a process of elimination. Asking questions since I get the impression you still have a problem.
Still Charged Up
Yes i still have a problem, and both the routers work fine when they are close to each other connected with a short patch cable without using wall cables. I revised all settings on them and didn't find anything that could be wrong.
So, i think i gave up for a week or so, till i get the cable tester which will be able to show me the truth about wiring of wall cables
Very strange it's the cable but it sure looks that way. Please let me know how it ends up - you've got me hooked.
Still Charged Up
OK, sure
http://www.peaktech.de/productdetai...er-mit-digital-multimeter/produkt/p-3365.html
this is what i bought and waiting to receive, i hope it will show the situation
Hey Reilly1812,
I have news, I tested the cables and there's a problem in one wall cable.
The tester I was using was testing all fibers in a cable one by one and I found that the fibers 2 and 5 are looped/connected together, as if testing fiber 2 it shows 2 and 5 active in tester, when I was testing 5th fiber again 2 and 5 was active...
Is it possible to get 100% OK internet over these cables and how, if yes?
Thanks
Not all pairs are used, but I can't tell you which ones. Unless someone driving nails/drilling I would think the cable ends more likely the culprit and I would think about cutting off the ends and retesting. cable might actually be ok.
Still Charged Up
Yes, I See
I have success here. I found info that 4,5,7 and 8 wires are unused. So I crossed 2 with 8 in two patch cables and everything works now
Good to hear. You just need to know what caused the cable failure in the first place so it doesn't happen again.
Still Charged Up
I as you think that the problem is more likely in one of the in wall sockets. But making custom patch cables seemed an easier task for me, so i went this route.
Don't you just love this stuff? Cheers!
Still Charged Up